[Emc-users] IMAGE-TO-GCODE PCB
What are the best settings to generate g-code? Something looking like that banner on the image to gcode page. http://axis.unpy.net/files/default/axis-banner.png - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.- This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] IMAGE-TO-GCODE PCB
On Thu, Mar 13, 2008 at 05:06:27AM -0700, Cary Rohan wrote: What are the best settings to generate g-code? Something looking like that banner on the image to gcode page. http://axis.unpy.net/files/default/axis-banner.png The gcode used in the basis of that screenshot was not generated by image-to-gcode. It was generated by exporting an Eagle pcb file to emc gcode using an eagle ulp script. The descendant of that script can be found here: http://unpy.net/cgi-bin/viewcvs.cgi/eagle/ulp/ Jeff - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Thursday 13 March 2008, John Thornton wrote: You will find out that the cost of plasti dip to be more than the $12 replacement bowl. The weight of the plasti-dip coating will also affect the resonant frequency of the bowl, reducing the amplitude of the jiggle, and the effectiveness of the action. We have one we use for cleaning shells. Don't expect much from it and you won't be disappointed. We have to use a liquid additive just to polish the shell casings... I use one for shell cleaning and it works nicely, just give it a few hours. I have another bowl I use for moly-coating bullets as you shouldn't contaminate the cleaning bowl with the moly. These just don't have enough power to do any real deburring IMHO. You might be better off building a tumbler... But for $40 you don't loose much trying one. For the deburring etc, I haven't tried it as my own HF cement mixer still gets some use as a cement mixer around here, but I sure like the idea. Daytime only use though, its gonna be noisy unless there is enough media in it to cushion the parts falling off the stirring fins. John On 12 Mar 2008 at 19:13, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think I'll give your plasti-dip suggestion a tryout, too, as I'm worried about eating away the bowl with certain more abrasive media. I think I'll see what the internet has to say about homemade/found media, too, as some of the abrasives on the page you linked are pretty pricey for my hobby-only needs. Thanks again for the reply! -Gary - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Cheers, Gene There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order. -Ed Howdershelt (Author) ... all the modern inconveniences ... -- Mark Twain - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Can EMC2 support any 'AC Servo Motor'?
Dear All, I am very happy, you propose some practical suggestions. I and my members take a meeting and decide that we will buy 5I20 control card and 7I33 analog servo amp interface. But there are problems, I would like to ask. Rayh said that EMC2 and Sanyo servo amp support step and direction. I try to find this method in the Sanyo manual and HAL handbook but I am not sure is it correct. In page 45(3-13) of the Sanyo manual, it tells me that there are three types of command input pulse, Positive + Reverse pulse, Code + pulse train and 90 deg phase difference. In page 123(7-10), it shows me more detail information about them. I think that is it only “Code + pulse train” can be supported in the EMC2. If I want to use it type, should I buy 5I20 and 7I37 (Isolated Anything – IO adapter)? In the 7I37 manual, MOSFET outputs turn on in 2 uSec and off in 5 uSec but in the Sanyo manual page 123(7-10), the response time need at least or equal to 0.1 uSec. It means that 7I37 is not suitable this servo amp? At last, according to their experience to create the machine and configure the EMC2, would you mind giving me some hits which thing we should be take care. Thank you very much. Best regards, Howard Hi Howard Glad to hear of your interest in EMC2. It is a great system for students because it will allow you to experiment with most motion control variables. The pdf at the link you posted includes a lot of sales pitch. It appears to have been written and edited by someone with limited motion control experience. They have very successfully blended together at least three input signal types to maximize the apparent value of their products. You will need to sort out most all of it to get the system that will work for you. Sanyo lists three kinds of motion signals. They include analog voltage, step and direction, and CANopen. EMC2 as it exists right now can handle two of these, analog voltage, and step and direction. We do NOT have serial drivers in our motion software that would permit CANopen control. Hint -- Serial communication using CANopen would be an excellent graduate student project. I'll expand just a bit on the two systems we do have for your use right now. It looks like Step and Direction signals can be used with both the stand alone amps and with the multi axis package. EMC2 produces millions of step and direction signals every day. They are the preferred motion signal for stepper motor powered systems. What this drive does is make the servo motor look like a stepper motor if you use this control signal. You will have a real advantage over steppers because the motor's torque will not fall off as speed increases but you will still see some cogging at low speeds. There may also be an upper RPM limit, well below the max speed of the motors unless the drive includes a pulse multiplier or you add an external hardware work around. Permit me to do a bit of computation on this max rotational velocity using step signals. If the supplied encoder is 2500 pulses per rev, and the amp equates external steps one-to-one then you will need 2500 pulses for each revolution. Let's imagine that your computer can supply 30k pulses per second (PPS) using the EMC2. That combination will allow 12 revolutions per second or 720 RPM. What is the maximum pulse speed you can expect from EMC2. Alex and I were is a bit of a contest a while back and were able to get pulse speeds of 75 to 90 thousand pulses per second. It may be that we could get even faster speeds now that Jeff has added his rate doubler. You can see that rotational speed is still somewhat limited. At 90k PPS you would be limited to about 2100 RPM. The second type of speed signal that EMC2 can offer is an analog signal. This could be pulse width or -10 tp +10 volt using a PC card like Alex and Tom suggested. These analog signals have the advantage of driving the motor to full speed and to constant velocity at low speeds. Analog has the advantage of producing a real, closed loop servo system. I would use this system even though it costs the price of an extra computer board and requires a bit more care in wiring. If you choose analog signals you must make certain the amps you purchase allow you to connect those signals. Not all of the amps listed do that. It looks like, although the pdf does not say so, that you will need to use a Microsoft OS to tune the amps. Writing a Linux/EMC2 based tuning software for these drives would also be a valuable student project, if your school and discipline includes both hardware and code writing. Good luck and welcome. Rayh --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Alex Joni [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Can EMC2 support any 'AC Servo Motor'? Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:57:00 +0200 Hello,
Re: [Emc-users] IMAGE-TO-GCODE PCB
http://unpy.net/cgi-bin/viewcvs.cgi/eagle/ulp/ Does it work for KICAD files? And thanks for the quick reply, all help is thanked. - Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.- This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Can EMC2 support any 'AC Servo Motor'?
On Fri, 14 Mar 2008, Howard Chan wrote: Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 01:15:01 +0800 From: Howard Chan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Can EMC2 support any 'AC Servo Motor'? Dear Peter, Would you explain detailed about why using the analog velocity input is better then pules/direction? Thank you!! Howard Step and direction interfaces are usually used for simple systems without a fully closed position loop (like step motor systems). While its theoretically possible to use the encoder feedback with step and direction, its not as direct as velocity or torque drive. Another disadvantage of step direction drives is that now you have two feedback PID loops to tune, the amplifiers PID loop and EMCs PID loop. My personal experience is that having the control locus in one place makes tuning easier. Also with step and direction servo amplifiers its likely you would need hardware step generation to reach the full speed capabilities of the drives. In addition you may need two separate operating systems to tune the system, typically Windows to tune the amplifiers PID loop and Linux of course for tuning EMCs PID loops. One general advantage of using EMC for the total control loop (as you would do using the amplifiers torque input and EMC for the PID loop), is that now all of the motion control code is open and changeable. This may be especially important as this is a university project. (no 'black boxes'!) Peter Wallace Mesa Electronics (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your ()_() signature to help him gain world domination. - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] IMAGE-TO-GCODE PCB
On Thu, Mar 13, 2008 at 11:11:34AM -0700, Cary Rohan wrote: http://unpy.net/cgi-bin/viewcvs.cgi/eagle/ulp/ Does it work for KICAD files? And thanks for the quick reply, all help is thanked. No. That program is only for the eagle circuit board program from cadsoft.de. Jeff - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
[Emc-users] IMAGE-TO-GCODE PCB
http://unpy.net/cgi-bin/viewcvs.cgi/eagle/ulp/ Does it work for KICAD files? No. That program is only for the eagle circuit board program from cadsoft.de. GCAM http://gcam.js.cx/ claims to import and cut along rs274x gerber files, which kicad can export. Additionally, it's Free and runs on linux! Please let us know if this works out for you. -fenn - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Wednesday 12 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope it's not too off-topic, as it's not about EMC2, but this is a forum of machinists (please let me know if there are intelligent, well-trafficked lists more intended for this kind of talk). Anyway, I suddenly realized today that I'm not blowing through my money fast enough ;) and started to look into home anodization kits, and setups, and that lead me eventually to vibratory polishers. The first things I found were the Burr King bench tops, which were great, but quite pricey: http://burrking.thomasnet.com/viewitems/vibratory-bowls-and-chambers/vibra-k ing-174-bench-top-bowls?forward=1# Then my gun enthusiast office-mate pointed me toward cheap alternatives: http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?tabid=1categoryid=19906categor ystring=9315***731***695***8940***utm_source=facasetumblerutm_medium=reloa dingcat I found some videos of them cleaning bullet casings, their usual use for gun folk: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni1cmZtwja0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjGQlKyulqU It looks like decent action, and it fits my price/quietness (live in a tightly-packed LA neighborhood) points. Has anyone in here had experience with this kind of thing? Will it be enough for me? Can these things handle deburring well enough? Whatever I get, I'll find reason to pine for bigger at some point (just as with my mini-mill), but for now, it would be great to deburr, and polish up all of the smaller things I'm making out of 6061-T6. Thanks! -Gary I have the Lyman version, and have used it on steel, but the media abrasiveness I have, the red or green stuff, needs help for steel, 2 days didn't cut the hot roll scale off, just polished the edges a bit. It might be just the ticket for alu parts though. If it wasn't for the weight of river sand spoiling the jiggle, it might work pretty decent on steel but I've not actually tried it myself. I also have to run it outside as the hum pretty well permeates the house when its sitting on a rug on the cement floor of the basement. -- Cheers, Gene I have a Sherline 5400 mini-mill, so steel is just about of the question anyway. In fact, I have trouble with more than 0.002 deep cuts in 6061, even with a tiny 1/8 bit. It's truly a hobby-level machine. My dream is to create some very clever, small, marketable things with it, to help save up for a sweet CNC knee mill, and then I can think about RP ABS machines, and powerful laser/water jet engravers/cutters! :) I've seen many Lymans in my hunt, and with 0 experience, am unsure which one would be comparable in noise, power, etc., to the Harbor Freight model, and which might be better suited for my needs. The HF model is so cheap, though, I think it's worth giving it a shot. I can always find an alternate use for it, or Ebay it off to someone needing to clean shell casings if it doesn't work out for me. Then I can reveal any good experiences here. The noise permeating the house is a bit distressing. If I have to run something for say, 10 hours, it would be nice to just let it run into the late evening to finish up. I'm doing all of this mini machining in my office, in a house with all wood floors (so no sound is ever trapped by rugs, or carpets), but I've been surprised how much sound is killed just by the ancient walls. I had the mill cutting at full throttle (2800RPM), and this shopvac running at around 11PM this weekend: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051langId=-1catalogId=10053productId=100388637marketID=48locStoreNum=6611categoryID=524502 I decided to finally see how loud it was for the neighbors, and went outside, and really couldn't hear it much when between our houses. Inside their house, through yet another wall, it would definitely be entirely silent. The ambient neighborhood sounds of traffic, and wind were louder than the very faint whir coming from my windows. Having lived in an apartment for years, with seemingly acoustically transparent walls, I've done a lot of research into soundproofing. One of the things I'm still keen to try with everything from the shopvac, to this vibratory bowl is anti-vibe mats, like these: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/flooring.htm And even foot pads, like these: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/vibrationpads.htm Another thing I'd love to try to really kill machine noise is a method I found on that site for building nesting boxes. Each is missing its bottom, and one side, and you nest them such that each larger box slides over its smaller, child box's open end, creating an opening that zig-zags back and forth from the inside to the out. Air can travel easily through this, but sound doesn't like turning corners. If you line the insides of the boxes with that anti-vibe, or sound-trapping stuff, and set it all up on a sheet of it on the floor, it's supposed to tremendously deaden machine sound. This would be great for something like a vacuum,
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
Thanks for the link - I don't know all the fancy terms for finding all my options on their site yet. I searched for awhile, and never ran across that particular item. It looks a worthy candidate for my experiments. -Gary On Wednesday 12 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93252 Get the 93832-2VGA media to go with it, sounds like the best for harder metals. -- Cheers, Gene - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Thu, 2008-03-13 at 14:19 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wednesday 12 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope it's not too off-topic, as it's not about EMC2, but this is a ... snip to push air through the zig-zag channel. Maybe I could even run a pipe in there from my portable A/C unit to blow out the heat. Anyway, thanks for the info! -Gary You could build a slightly smaller room within your office and suspend the corners on soft rubber. ;) -- Kirk Wallace (California, USA http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/ Hardinge HNC lathe, Bridgeport mill conversion, doing XY now, Zubal lathe conversion pending) - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
Clever! My gut feeling has been that clothes-dryer tumbling action would take too long, and/or remove material too aggressively, even though these ideas seem to contradict each other. Honestly, though, a lot of things I'm going to be making are so tiny - e.g. less than 1 cubed - that I'm tempted to simply return to my youth with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/NSI-26354-Rock-Tumbler/dp/B0ISUU -Gary Gentlemen, We bought a cement mixer from Harbor Freight. The local pickup bed spray armor guys sprayed the inside and outside of the barrel. Works great. Media can be very aggressive and the coating shows very little wear after many hours use. thanks Stuart - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On 13 Mar 2008 at 9:06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use one for shell cleaning and it works nicely, just give it a few hours. I have another bowl I use for moly-coating bullets as you shouldn't contaminate the cleaning bowl with the moly. If you don't mind me asking what kind of shells benefit from a moly coating? We reload everything from 223 to 45... For the deburring etc, I haven't tried it as my own HF cement mixer still gets some use as a cement mixer around here, but I sure like the idea. Daytime only use though, its gonna be noisy unless there is enough media in it to cushion the parts falling off the stirring fins. For deburring and cleaning in a rotating drum you would want some backward facing fins about 2-3 inches long so as to only lift the material up about 1/2 the way up the side of the barrel or less. This keeps a nice steady rolling motion instead of a falling from the top which will damage parts. I've built about 20 of these for inline cleaning of parts at about 1/2 ton per hour rate of parts. Kinda big but it is the same for smaller ones. John - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Thursday 13 March 2008, John Thornton wrote: On 13 Mar 2008 at 9:06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use one for shell cleaning and it works nicely, just give it a few hours. I have another bowl I use for moly-coating bullets as you shouldn't contaminate the cleaning bowl with the moly. If you don't mind me asking what kind of shells benefit from a moly coating? We reload everything from 223 to 45... Generally, the rifle calibers benefit, as it imparts a bit of lubrication to the bullet as it passes through the barrel, and purportedly reduces barrel wear. (but barrels wear from burning the steel at the throat and moly won't stop that) I can see about a 50 fps improvement in speed on my chronograph, and a slightly lower std deviation to the speed. One can also give the barrel a coat, and with a clean barrel, it might do some good there too, but it didn't do anything for the accuracy which it was supposed to help. But, when I finally got the barrel cleaned out well enough to see what I had, what I had was a bunch of deep rust pits in the last 1.5 to the muzzle. That's either new barrel time, or cut it off and recrown. My little lathe wouldn't let me cut more than about 1.25, but cutting it off that much took a 5 group down to 1.5. I assume, since WV always schedules deer season in the middle of a *#@^$# monsoon, that I must have left a few drops of rain in the barrel sometime in the past. I really should do 2 things, one, take it down to Douglas in Charleston for a fresh barrel (its probably got 3500 rounds since it was fresh in '72) and learn to shoot through a friggin balloon stretched over the muzzle to keep the rain out. :) For the deburring etc, I haven't tried it as my own HF cement mixer still gets some use as a cement mixer around here, but I sure like the idea. Daytime only use though, its gonna be noisy unless there is enough media in it to cushion the parts falling off the stirring fins. For deburring and cleaning in a rotating drum you would want some backward facing fins about 2-3 inches long so as to only lift the material up about 1/2 the way up the side of the barrel or less. This keeps a nice steady rolling motion instead of a falling from the top which will damage parts. I've built about 20 of these for inline cleaning of parts at about 1/2 ton per hour rate of parts. Kinda big but it is the same for smaller ones. Not as tall a fin as what is in the HF mixer then.. John Thanks John. -- Cheers, Gene There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order. -Ed Howdershelt (Author) A penny saved is ridiculous. - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Thursday 13 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wednesday 12 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope it's not too off-topic, as it's not about EMC2, but this is a forum of machinists (please let me know if there are intelligent, well-trafficked lists more intended for this kind of talk). Anyway, I suddenly realized today that I'm not blowing through my money fast enough ;) and started to look into home anodization kits, and setups, and that lead me eventually to vibratory polishers. The first things I found were the Burr King bench tops, which were great, but quite pricey: http://burrking.thomasnet.com/viewitems/vibratory-bowls-and-chambers/vibra -k ing-174-bench-top-bowls?forward=1# Then my gun enthusiast office-mate pointed me toward cheap alternatives: http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?tabid=1categoryid=19906categ or ystring=9315***731***695***8940***utm_source=facasetumblerutm_medium=re loa dingcat I found some videos of them cleaning bullet casings, their usual use for gun folk: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni1cmZtwja0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjGQlKyulqU It looks like decent action, and it fits my price/quietness (live in a tightly-packed LA neighborhood) points. Has anyone in here had experience with this kind of thing? Will it be enough for me? Can these things handle deburring well enough? Whatever I get, I'll find reason to pine for bigger at some point (just as with my mini-mill), but for now, it would be great to deburr, and polish up all of the smaller things I'm making out of 6061-T6. Thanks! -Gary I have the Lyman version, and have used it on steel, but the media abrasiveness I have, the red or green stuff, needs help for steel, 2 days didn't cut the hot roll scale off, just polished the edges a bit. It might be just the ticket for alu parts though. If it wasn't for the weight of river sand spoiling the jiggle, it might work pretty decent on steel but I've not actually tried it myself. I also have to run it outside as the hum pretty well permeates the house when its sitting on a rug on the cement floor of the basement. -- Cheers, Gene I have a Sherline 5400 mini-mill, so steel is just about of the question anyway. In fact, I have trouble with more than 0.002 deep cuts in 6061, even with a tiny 1/8 bit. It's truly a hobby-level machine. My dream is to create some very clever, small, marketable things with it, to help save up for a sweet CNC knee mill, and then I can think about RP ABS machines, and powerful laser/water jet engravers/cutters! :) I've seen many Lymans in my hunt, and with 0 experience, am unsure which one would be comparable in noise, power, etc., to the Harbor Freight model, and which might be better suited for my needs. The HF model is so cheap, though, I think it's worth giving it a shot. I can always find an alternate use for it, or Ebay it off to someone needing to clean shell casings if it doesn't work out for me. Then I can reveal any good experiences here. The noise permeating the house is a bit distressing. If I have to run something for say, 10 hours, it would be nice to just let it run into the late evening to finish up. I'm doing all of this mini machining in my office, in a house with all wood floors (so no sound is ever trapped by rugs, or carpets), but I've been surprised how much sound is killed just by the ancient walls. I had the mill cutting at full throttle (2800RPM), and this shopvac running at around 11PM this weekend: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10 051langId=-1catalogId=10053productId=100388637marketID=48locStoreNum=66 11categoryID=524502 I decided to finally see how loud it was for the neighbors, and went outside, and really couldn't hear it much when between our houses. Inside their house, through yet another wall, it would definitely be entirely silent. The ambient neighborhood sounds of traffic, and wind were louder than the very faint whir coming from my windows. Having lived in an apartment for years, with seemingly acoustically transparent walls, I've done a lot of research into soundproofing. One of the things I'm still keen to try with everything from the shopvac, to this vibratory bowl is anti-vibe mats, like these: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/flooring.htm And even foot pads, like these: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/vibrationpads.htm Another thing I'd love to try to really kill machine noise is a method I found on that site for building nesting boxes. Each is missing its bottom, and one side, and you nest them such that each larger box slides over its smaller, child box's open end, creating an opening that zig-zags back and forth from the inside to the out. Air can travel easily through this, but sound doesn't like turning corners. If you line the insides of the boxes with that anti-vibe, or sound-trapping stuff, and set it all up on a sheet of it on the floor, it's supposed to tremendously deaden machine
Re: [Emc-users] vibratory polishing/deburring
On Thursday 13 March 2008, Kirk Wallace wrote: On Thu, 2008-03-13 at 14:19 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wednesday 12 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope it's not too off-topic, as it's not about EMC2, but this is a ... snip to push air through the zig-zag channel. Maybe I could even run a pipe in there from my portable A/C unit to blow out the heat. Anyway, thanks for the info! -Gary You could build a slightly smaller room within your office and suspend the corners on soft rubber. ;) One of the things we have been known to do when building recording booths in the broadcast business, it to build a normal wall, but run a skilsaw up the side of the studs, cutting then into a pair of 2x2's with hopefully a small gap between them. Stuff the wall full of something deadening, like maybe 'Cocoon' brand shreded paper insulation, and its amazing how little noise above 30 hz gets in or out of such a room. -- Cheers, Gene There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order. -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Klingon function calls do not have 'parameters' -- they have 'arguments' -- and they ALWAYS WIN THEM. - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Can EMC2 support any 'AC Servo Motor'?
Howard, There is another way... the Sanyo amp and the 5i20/7i33 can work together with analog velocity mode. Emc would work with the 5i20 to create a PWM signal The 5i20 would send this to the 7i33 which would convert PWM to Analog The analog signal would go to the Sanyo amplifier This input is not a pulse at all, it is often a ramp like this V ^__ V ^ e | / \_ o | l | ___/ \__ l | o | t c - time a ig te y the speed is proportional to the command voltage the direction depends on the sign of the command voltage like this __^ / \ | positive direction no motion ___/\...0volts | \ | - time \ | negative direction v The amplifier would move the motor The Encoder would return to the amplifier and on to EMC. EMC would close the position loop. I think this is the most common form of cnc control. It is not the newest, but is very common. regards TomP - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] home-mad CNC machine project.
Im on my third rev of my home-built CNC project. My best advice is to make it much more rigid than you think you need to. I started out with small slider shafts and now Im up to 7/8 (which you can get surprisingly cheap at speedymetals). But in my case every rev got considerably bigger. The first rev was a little 8*11 PCB cutter and it had ¼ sliders, the second rev grew to 11*17 with 3/8s and the latest rev will be a whopping 20*34, thus the need for the huge sliders. But definitely err on the side of over-engineering for rigidity. The other part that I couldnt afford that I wish I could have was good linear bearings. I tried many times to come up with my own linear bearing surface but in the end most of the available torque was spent trying to overcome the sliders. I still cant afford good linear bearings but my latest home-brew setup uses small standard bearings (some of which are spring-loaded). These are a bear to manufacture but will dramatically increase the quality of the machine. I am using threaded rod but it makes for a very slow machine. If anyone here has a line on good inexpensive ballscrews please let me know. As for electronics I am doing it all myself because I want smart nodes. But I think the consensus here is probably right spend the money to save the time. Drop me a note if you have specific questions. DougM _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of seth wiley Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) Subject: Re: [Emc-users] home-mad CNC machine project. sean, i'm slowly (in my very spare sparetime) working up a small (12x12x3) low tolerance cnc machine for light wood and plastics. it is also serving as a general teach-myself-cnc project. i chose to go with a pre-config'd electronics / servos package from keling inc. (http://www.kelinginc.net/ThreeXCNCPackage2.html). after reading lots of cnczone entries and doing lots of chipset / board / wiring research, i figured it's 329$ well spent by saving me time, and it's a pretty complete set of items for a good price. also, this site has some helpful info on wiring (http://www.robertguyser.com/). i am next building up the machine using basic 8020 or minitec extrusions and linear accessories. lovejoy couplings will round out the basic bom. i'll use whatever i have as a cutter head - dremel, trim router, etc. it should turn out to be a fairly cheap machine without eating up too much time reinventing the wheel. cam environment: emc2 packaged with ubuntu. it was a smooth install and the forums are great. so, i cannot say that this route is flawless and worked out yet since i'm still in the process, but i can say that i've spent a bunch of time running cnc machines, spent lots of time reading everything i could find on the internet and printed about various diy cnc options. i think this route seems like a pretty efficient and solid starting point. i'll let you know how it comes out - if i ever get the time to complete it! have fun regardless of which direction you choose. good luck. -seth On Fri, Feb 29, 2008 at 10:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was wondering if anyone has ever tried a do-it-yourself CNC project like this. http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Dri ver-ci/ and this http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top-3-Axis-CNC-Milling-Ma chine/ . If so, any pointers or words of knowledge before I dive in? Also, I'm still looking for some stepper motors to use if anyone has a good source.. I'm a college student, so I'm obviously broke and starving. So, inexpensive would be good. Thanks guys. Sean - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/ ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- s e t h w i l e y 827 south saint bernard street philadelphia, pa, 19143 - This SF.net email is sponsored by: Microsoft Defy all challenges. Microsoft(R) Visual Studio 2008. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/vse012070mrt/direct/01/___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
