Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Chris Albertson]

Oh, it's aluminum.   v-pulleys on my saws are iron  .  I that case you are
correct, I would not place aluminum in the self cleaning oven.  Best to
machine the gunk out mechanicaly

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:36 PM, Bruce Layne 
wrote:

> The self cleaning oven would probably do a good job on the belt residue
> but would almost certainly result in damage to the aluminum's material
> properties.  The self cleaning oven temperature is around 500C.  A quick
> online search seems to indicate 6000 series aluminum experiences
> recrystalization somewhere in the 250C to 300C range, and the effect
> becomes pronounced around 400C.
>
> https://www.researchgate.net/post/Temperature_of_recrystalli
> sation_of_6xxx_aluminum_alloys
>
> A pulley might have sufficient design margins to tolerate the exposure to
> high temperature without subsequent failure, although if there's a key slot
> it may fail.  I wouldn't heat 6xxx aluminum to 500C in anything close to a
> critical application where I needed the original mechanical properties.
>
> I'd probably go with a version of the previous suggestion.  Have the
> bandsaw motor spin the pulley and use something like an ice pick to
> mechanically remove the rubbery goo.  I wouldn't push the tool against the
> rotation in the manner of a wood lathe.  That seems like a good way to
> catch the tool in the workpiece, have it spun around and jabbed into your
> arm.  I'd let the tool dragging on the workpiece so it wouldn't gouge and
> kick back.  The material removal rate would be slower but it should be a
> lot faster than removing the pulley, using solvent, baking, etc. and then
> reinstalling it.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> On 03/21/2018 11:48 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>
>> My bet is the toaster ain't going to work.   What will work is if you have
>> a self-cleaning oven.  But the pulley and any completely blacken cookware
>> you might want to also clean in the oven and run a self cleaning cycle.
>> Any organic matter will turn to grey ash and fall off.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 6:13 PM, Gene Heskett 
>> wrote:
>>
>> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
>>>
>>> I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
 couple of hours.

 N. Christopher Perry

>>> So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up
>>> to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.
>>>
>>> But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and
>>> it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come
>>> off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well
>>> insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to
>>> discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge
>>> of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
 On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> Greetings all;
>
> I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
> blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
> the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
> Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
>
> Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
> out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
> 
> -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
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 --
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>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>>> --
>>> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>>>   soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>>> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>>> Genes Web page 
>>>
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
>>> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.li

Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Bruce Layne]

The self cleaning oven would probably do a good job on the belt residue 
but would almost certainly result in damage to the aluminum's material 
properties.  The self cleaning oven temperature is around 500C.  A quick 
online search seems to indicate 6000 series aluminum experiences 
recrystalization somewhere in the 250C to 300C range, and the effect 
becomes pronounced around 400C.


https://www.researchgate.net/post/Temperature_of_recrystallisation_of_6xxx_aluminum_alloys

A pulley might have sufficient design margins to tolerate the exposure 
to high temperature without subsequent failure, although if there's a 
key slot it may fail.  I wouldn't heat 6xxx aluminum to 500C in anything 
close to a critical application where I needed the original mechanical 
properties.


I'd probably go with a version of the previous suggestion.  Have the 
bandsaw motor spin the pulley and use something like an ice pick to 
mechanically remove the rubbery goo.  I wouldn't push the tool against 
the rotation in the manner of a wood lathe.  That seems like a good way 
to catch the tool in the workpiece, have it spun around and jabbed into 
your arm.  I'd let the tool dragging on the workpiece so it wouldn't 
gouge and kick back.  The material removal rate would be slower but it 
should be a lot faster than removing the pulley, using solvent, baking, 
etc. and then reinstalling it.


Good luck!



On 03/21/2018 11:48 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

My bet is the toaster ain't going to work.   What will work is if you have
a self-cleaning oven.  But the pulley and any completely blacken cookware
you might want to also clean in the oven and run a self cleaning cycle.
Any organic matter will turn to grey ash and fall off.



On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 6:13 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:


On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:


I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
couple of hours.

N. Christopher Perry

So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up
to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.

But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and
it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come
off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well
insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to
discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge
of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.

Thanks.

On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
wrote:

Greetings all;

I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.

Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?

Thanks.

--
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 


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--
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Chris Albertson]

My bet is the toaster ain't going to work.   What will work is if you have
a self-cleaning oven.  But the pulley and any completely blacken cookware
you might want to also clean in the oven and run a self cleaning cycle.
Any organic matter will turn to grey ash and fall off.



On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 6:13 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
>
> > I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
> > couple of hours.
> >
> > N. Christopher Perry
>
> So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up
> to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.
>
> But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and
> it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come
> off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well
> insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to
> discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge
> of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.
>
> Thanks.
> >
> > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings all;
> > >
> > > I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
> > > blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
> > > the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
> > > Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
> > > out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > > --
> > > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> > > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > > Genes Web page 
> > >
> > > 
> > >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> > > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> > > ___
> > > Emc-users mailing list
> > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
> > --
> > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
>
> --
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
> 
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>



-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 21:36:19 Kurt Jacobson wrote:

> P.S. Maybe some epoxy/paint stripper might work to remove that stuff
> ...
I thought of that, then remembered the corrosion I got trying to remove  
UPS's brown epoxy based paint from a panel out of the side of a wrecked 
ups panel van. Fuggly.
>
> On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:34 PM, Kurt Jacobson
> 
>
> wrote:
> > Gene, can your Sheldon swing the pulley?
> > I had a similar situation recently with belt residue build up on my
> > PB motor pulley.
> > I tried all sorts of chemicals, acetone being the most effective,
> > but that was still not very promising,
> > so I resorted to mechanical means. I chucked the pulley up in the
> > lathe and ground/filed
> > a bit of acrylic to fit the v-belt groove and used that as a
> > scraper, and finished up with abrasive
> > wool soaked in acetone. It worked like a charm, and the pulley looks
> > almost new.
> >
> > I know you have a micro groove pulley, but I would think the same
> > method might work,
> > and the chance of damaging the pulley is very slim. I think you
> > would have to get it
> > really hot to burn it off, and it may just be a gooey mess at lover
> > temperatures.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Kurt
> >
> > On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:13 PM, Gene Heskett 
> >
> > wrote:
> >> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
> >> > I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F
> >> > for a couple of hours.
> >> >
> >> > N. Christopher Perry
> >>
> >> So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It
> >> goes up to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that
> >> way.
> >>
> >> But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated
> >> shed and it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will
> >> need to come off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed
> >> is not well insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew
> >> point to discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on
> >> the inside edge of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly
> >> out, and still snowing.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >> > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett
> >> > >  wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Greetings all;
> >> > >
> >> > > I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu
> >> > > with a blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned
> >> > > and bound in the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into
> >> > > the motor pulley. Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing
> >> > > into the pulley.
> >> > >
> >> > > Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean
> >> > > it out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts
> >> > > dept?
> >> > >
> >> > > Thanks.
> >> > >
> >> > > --
> >> > > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >> > > --
> >> > > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> >> > > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> >> > > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> >> > > Genes Web page 
> >> > >
> >> > > ---
> >> > >- -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of
> >> > > the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org!
> >> > > http://sdm.link/slashdot
> >> > > ___
> >> > > Emc-users mailing list
> >> > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >> >
> >> > -
> >> >-  Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the
> >> > world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org!
> >> > http://sdm.link/slashdot
> >> > ___
> >> > Emc-users mailing list
> >> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >>
> >> --
> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >> --
> >> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> >>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> >> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> >> Genes Web page 
> >>
> >> 
> >> --
> >> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
> >> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> >> ___
> >> Emc-users mailing list
> >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
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-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes

Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 21:34:44 Kurt Jacobson wrote:

> Gene, can your Sheldon swing the pulley?
> I had a similar situation recently with belt residue build up on my PB
> motor pulley.
> I tried all sorts of chemicals, acetone being the most effective, but
> that was still not very promising,
> so I resorted to mechanical means. I chucked the pulley up in the
> lathe and ground/filed
> a bit of acrylic to fit the v-belt groove and used that as a scraper,
> and finished up with abrasive
> wool soaked in acetone. It worked like a charm, and the pulley looks
> almost new.
>
> I know you have a micro groove pulley, but I would think the same
> method might work,
> and the chance of damaging the pulley is very slim. I think you would
> have to get it
> really hot to burn it off, and it may just be a gooey mess at lover
> temperatures.
>
No doubt, but I'll try the toaster oven first. Easy way out if it works.

> Cheers,
> Kurt

-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[John Kasunich]

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
> 
> I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a blade 
> thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in the cut, 
> and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley. Rather 
> thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
> 
> Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it out, 
> or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
> 

What is the pulley made of?  Steel?  Aluminum?  Plastic?

It's the motor pulley.  That means you can spin it up by simply plugging in the 
motor.
I'd try to turn the stuff out of the grooves using a "lathe tool" made of 
something softer than the pulley.
Hand-held, probably with an improvised tool rest, like on a wood lathe 
-- 
  John Kasunich
  jmkasun...@fastmail.fm

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Re: [Emc-users] Looking for anyone with a Pico Systems Univ PWM card *and* a pci-e parport

[Jon Elson]

On 03/21/2018 03:15 PM, Maxime Lemonnier wrote:

OK, I checked my system with a mediocre Dell Pentium 4 CPU 
and a PCI card, and ONE universal PWM controller.  
ppmc.0.write was 60 us, max was 95 us.

ppmc.0.read was 128 us, max 188 us.
The total thread was running 386 us.
This is a Debian Wheezy system with the rt-preempt kernel.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Kurt Jacobson]

P.S. Maybe some epoxy/paint stripper might work to remove that stuff ...

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:34 PM, Kurt Jacobson 
wrote:

> Gene, can your Sheldon swing the pulley?
> I had a similar situation recently with belt residue build up on my PB
> motor pulley.
> I tried all sorts of chemicals, acetone being the most effective, but that
> was still not very promising,
> so I resorted to mechanical means. I chucked the pulley up in the lathe
> and ground/filed
> a bit of acrylic to fit the v-belt groove and used that as a scraper, and
> finished up with abrasive
> wool soaked in acetone. It worked like a charm, and the pulley looks
> almost new.
>
> I know you have a micro groove pulley, but I would think the same method
> might work,
> and the chance of damaging the pulley is very slim. I think you would have
> to get it
> really hot to burn it off, and it may just be a gooey mess at lover
> temperatures.
>
> Cheers,
> Kurt
>
> On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:13 PM, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
>> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
>>
>> > I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
>> > couple of hours.
>> >
>> > N. Christopher Perry
>>
>> So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up
>> to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.
>>
>> But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and
>> it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come
>> off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well
>> insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to
>> discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge
>> of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> >
>> > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
>> > > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Greetings all;
>> > >
>> > > I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
>> > > blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
>> > > the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
>> > > Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
>> > >
>> > > Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
>> > > out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
>> > >
>> > > Thanks.
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>> > > --
>> > > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>> > > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>> > > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>> > > Genes Web page 
>> > >
>> > > 
>> > >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
>> > > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
>> > > ___
>> > > Emc-users mailing list
>> > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>> >
>> > --
>> > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
>> > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
>> > ___
>> > Emc-users mailing list
>> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>> --
>> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>> Genes Web page 
>>
>> 
>> --
>> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
>> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>
>
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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Kurt Jacobson]

Gene, can your Sheldon swing the pulley?
I had a similar situation recently with belt residue build up on my PB
motor pulley.
I tried all sorts of chemicals, acetone being the most effective, but that
was still not very promising,
so I resorted to mechanical means. I chucked the pulley up in the lathe and
ground/filed
a bit of acrylic to fit the v-belt groove and used that as a scraper, and
finished up with abrasive
wool soaked in acetone. It worked like a charm, and the pulley looks almost
new.

I know you have a micro groove pulley, but I would think the same method
might work,
and the chance of damaging the pulley is very slim. I think you would have
to get it
really hot to burn it off, and it may just be a gooey mess at lover
temperatures.

Cheers,
Kurt

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 9:13 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
>
> > I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
> > couple of hours.
> >
> > N. Christopher Perry
>
> So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up
> to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.
>
> But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and
> it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come
> off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well
> insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to
> discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge
> of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.
>
> Thanks.
> >
> > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings all;
> > >
> > > I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
> > > blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
> > > the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
> > > Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
> > > out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > > --
> > > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> > > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > > Genes Web page 
> > >
> > > 
> > >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> > > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> > > ___
> > > Emc-users mailing list
> > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
> > --
> > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
>
> --
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
> 
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
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> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 19:03:28 N. Christopher Perry wrote:

> I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a
> couple of hours.
>
> N. Christopher Perry

So as not to stink up the house, would a $20 toaster oven do?  It goes up 
to about 425F. It would stink up the garage instead that way.

But not till warmer weather as the saw is in an almost unheated shed and 
it will take a bit of time as the lower drive wheel will need to come 
off to gain good access to the motor pulley. The shed is not well 
insulated, so I keep the heat set to just above the dew point to 
discourage rust on the machinery in the winter. We're on the inside edge 
of the current four-easter, and its a bit chilly out, and still snowing.

Thanks.
>
> > On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett 
> > wrote:
> >
> > Greetings all;
> >
> > I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a
> > blade thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in
> > the cut, and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley.
> > Rather thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
> >
> > Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it
> > out, or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > --
> > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > Genes Web page 
> >
> > 
> >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> > most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
> most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users



-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

--
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Re: [Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[N. Christopher Perry]

I’d pull the pulley off and through it into an over set to 450F for a couple of 
hours.

N. Christopher Perry

> On Mar 21, 2018, at 6:45 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all;
> 
> I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a blade 
> thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in the cut, 
> and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley. Rather 
> thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.
> 
> Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it out, 
> or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
> 
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


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[Emc-users] Getting a burned up polygroove belt out of a motor pulley. Need chemist expert

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

I have a Rikon 10-325 bandsaw. Trying to cut a block of alu with a blade 
thats had one side of it dulled, the blade turned and bound in the cut, 
and burned the drive belt, a 240J into the motor pulley. Rather 
thoroughly welding the kevlar backing into the pulley.

Does anyone have a recipe for some panther piss that will clean it out, 
or am I stuck buying another pulley from Rikon's parts dept?

Thanks.

-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

--
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Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 15:36:23 Ken Strauss wrote:

> That is a little too large! My current need is to make some tapered
> external threads for photographic cable releases: 28-degree included
> angle, 0.5mm pitch, 3.75mm at the big end.

This mill I have, would do that just fine since its an external thread.

However, those threads are relatively coarse considering the od. And 
since the taper angle is in essence limited by the pitch of the thread, 
and those things are rarely over 1/4" long, the 28 degree angle should 
be easily done.  And for that I wouldn't hesitate to use a g76, and a 
threading tool in a vice, with the end terminal for the cable in a 
suitable collet (sp?) in the spindle of a mill. Or, since the tool is or 
can be moved by the x axis, and the cable release is in the z, a g76 
with a long e l2 would do it just fine. Run the spindle in reverse with 
the tool reversed too and a z-3/16 or so, so the entry is at the top and 
the small end of the taper is on the bottom. G76 can do more than the 
man page talks about, just figure on cutting a couple buckets of air 
getting exactly what you want. ;-) Precutting the taper might be a good 
idea.


See the g76, and how its invoked, in the code I did post, last cut at the 
bottom of that file.
-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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[Emc-users] Looking for anyone with a Pico Systems Univ PWM card *and* a pci-e parport

[Maxime Lemonnier]

I'm using a Syba PCI-E card with NetMos 9000 chip. I get worse results than
my thinkpad t400's docking station parport.

Syba card on a core i5 3.3GHz:

10  s32   OUT443336  ppmc.0.read.time
10  s32   OUT379472  ppmc.0.write.time
 8  s32   OUT826728  servo-thread.time

Thinkpad t400, core i5 2.26GHz, docking station parport:

10  s32   OUT280386  ppmc.0.read.time
10  s32   OUT226323  ppmc.0.write.time
 8  s32   OUT515907  servo-thread.time


can anyone post their timings?

you can browse Axis's HAL Configuration *or* from a terminal, while your
system is running, it will be among:

halcmd -kt
show pin | grep *.time

Thanks a lot!
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Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Kirk Wallace]

On 03/21/2018 07:47 AM, Ken Strauss wrote:

I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe threads --
NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in incremental mode to
approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable? Is there a better way? Will
cumulative errors bite me after hundreds of incremental moves?


It has been a while since I looked at this sort of thing, but off-hand I 
think the G2/3 code is able to do a tapered helix with the proper 
parameter settings:

http://linuxcnc.org/docs/2.7/html/gcode/g-code.html#gcode:g2-g3


The current location is the start XYZ position of the helical thread 
mill path (allow for lead-in and out, if needed). The XYZ parameters set 
the path end location. The XY values set the end of the path which 
should have the taper included. The Z and P set the thread length and 
number of turns. I seem to recall having to calculate the last bit of an 
additional arc to finish the thread if it doesn't end in a full turn. I 
also seem to recall that P and the real number of turns is not 
intuitive, so cut air until you get what you need. I may be all wet on 
the above so check out the documentation and test for yourself. There 
are a lot of features and calculations between the control point path 
and the thread form -- tool diameter, tip truncation, thread pitch cone 
dimensions, etcetera.


Or not.

--
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Ken Strauss]

That is a little too large! My current need is to make some tapered external
threads for photographic cable releases: 28-degree included angle, 0.5mm
pitch, 3.75mm at the big end.

> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 3:00 PM
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix
>
> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 14:38:09 Ken Strauss wrote:
>
> > Thanks but...
> > Isn't G76 for threading on a lathe and G33.1 for rigid tapping? I'm
> > doing thread milling.
> >
> G76 is istr limited to lathe's as its not subject to the g17-19 rules.
>
> G33.1 can function on any axis set of a mill. So it might be modifyable
for your
> use. I've used it for rigid tapping with the head laid horizontal on my
G0704.
> Worked well.
>
> Andy's code looks much simpler, so I would first see if it could do what
you
> need to do.
>
> I only have one thread mill, .750" OD and its likely too big, or almost
too big
> for a 1" pipe thread.
>
>
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 2:07 PM
> > > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix
> > >
> > > On Wednesday 21 March 2018 10:47:31 Ken Strauss wrote:
> > > > I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe
> > > > threads -- NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in
> > > > incremental mode to approximate a tapered helix. Is that
> > > > reasonable? Is there a better way? Will cumulative errors bite me
> > > > after hundreds of incremental moves?
> > >
> > > How big, Ken? Inside I assume... I have used both the G76 and G33.1
> > > for
> >
> > low
> >
> > > angle stuffs by setting the entrance or exit paper length to
> > > 1 pitch less than the length of the thread.  The man page is wrong
> > > when
> >
> > says
> >
> > > the taper limit is 1/2 the thread length. I think that could be
> > > extended
> >
> > by
> >
> > > doing the first using that rule of one pitch less than the total
> > > stroke,
> >
> > and if
> >
> > > thats not deep enough, advance the z a multiple of the pitch, I've
> > > not
> >
> > proved
> >
> > > it, might need some adjusting, and reduce the starting r by the
> > > height difference used in the first pass.
> > >
> > > I have used this code to make a socket in the end of a shaft, that
> > > with a matching taper threaded nut, and making 4 petals out of the
> > > walls with
> >
> > edm,
> >
> > > to compress an A2 shaft onto a smallish ball screw, by tightening
> > > the nut.
> >
> > Its
> >
> > > driving the x axis of my Sheldon 11x36 right now. With some green
> > > threadlocker in the socket, I don't expect it to slip until I loosen
> > > the
> >
> > nut.
> >
> > > Here is that file, quite complex because I tend to make a one trip
> >
> > Bumstead
> >
> > > out of projects like this, so it can be switched from boreing to
> > > turning
> >
> > yadda
> >
> > > yadda.
> > >
> > > Setup ATM for making the nut described above. load it into LinuxCNC,
> > > and expand the backplot to get a good view of what it does.  Reading
> > > the code
> >
> > will
> >
> > > show you where and what to modify for your project, if its usable at
> > > all. ===cut here>
> > > %
> > > ( this is to make use of the g33 routine to carve a thread in the
> > > format )
> >
> > ( of a
> >
> > > pipe thread, in this case an odd size that would resemble a 3/16" )
> > > ( pipe thread is indeed there ever was such a thing. :) ( because
> > > that seems to
> >
> > be a
> >
> > > Merican only thing, all starting dimensions are in inch) ( there is
> > > a BS
> >
> > spec,
> >
> > > looks a lot like ASTME to me :) ( since everything is converted to
> > > metric
> >
> > below,
> >
> > > make sure its in metric mode) ( We start not with a Merican
> > > fractonal, but
> >
> > at
> >
> > > any arbitrary size ) ( and tpi, and degrees of taper desired if
> > > desired. )
> >
> > ( length
> >
> > > of taper will be based on the thickness of the nut, which will
> > > determine )
> >
> > (
> >
> > > that the stated angle will be true for the length of the nut ) (
> > > however,
> >
> > the
> >
> > > actual Z travel will be longer since the initial Z should be a ) (
> > > couple
> >
> > mm's
> >
> > > from first contact.)
> > > (logopen,/home/gene/linuxcnc/g33debug.txt)
> > > G21 (metric)
> > > G8 (lathe radius mode)
> > > G61
> > > S350
> > > ( set straight, like g76 by bypassing the G33 stuff)
> > > #<_do_taper>  = 0.00
> > > #<_taper_deg> = 7 ( degrees here, translates to sin[7]
later)
> > > #<_bore_turn> = 0. ( 1 for bore, zero for an
> >
> > external
> >
> > > profile)
> > > #<_input_is_inch> = 1. ( zero for all metric inputs)
> > > #<_tpi>   =   50 (adjustable. If input is inches,
> >
> > use inch, else
> >
> > > PUT mm's here)
> > > #<_mkmmfctr>  =  

Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 14:38:09 Ken Strauss wrote:

> Thanks but...
> Isn't G76 for threading on a lathe and G33.1 for rigid tapping? I'm
> doing thread milling.
>
G76 is istr limited to lathe's as its not subject to the g17-19 rules. 

G33.1 can function on any axis set of a mill. So it might be modifyable 
for your use. I've used it for rigid tapping with the head laid 
horizontal on my G0704. Worked well.

Andy's code looks much simpler, so I would first see if it could do what 
you need to do.

I only have one thread mill, .750" OD and its likely too big, or almost 
too big for a 1" pipe thread.


> > -Original Message-
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 2:07 PM
> > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix
> >
> > On Wednesday 21 March 2018 10:47:31 Ken Strauss wrote:
> > > I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe
> > > threads -- NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in
> > > incremental mode to approximate a tapered helix. Is that
> > > reasonable? Is there a better way? Will cumulative errors bite me
> > > after hundreds of incremental moves?
> >
> > How big, Ken? Inside I assume... I have used both the G76 and G33.1
> > for
>
> low
>
> > angle stuffs by setting the entrance or exit paper length to
> > 1 pitch less than the length of the thread.  The man page is wrong
> > when
>
> says
>
> > the taper limit is 1/2 the thread length. I think that could be
> > extended
>
> by
>
> > doing the first using that rule of one pitch less than the total
> > stroke,
>
> and if
>
> > thats not deep enough, advance the z a multiple of the pitch, I've
> > not
>
> proved
>
> > it, might need some adjusting, and reduce the starting r by the
> > height difference used in the first pass.
> >
> > I have used this code to make a socket in the end of a shaft, that
> > with a matching taper threaded nut, and making 4 petals out of the
> > walls with
>
> edm,
>
> > to compress an A2 shaft onto a smallish ball screw, by tightening
> > the nut.
>
> Its
>
> > driving the x axis of my Sheldon 11x36 right now. With some green
> > threadlocker in the socket, I don't expect it to slip until I loosen
> > the
>
> nut.
>
> > Here is that file, quite complex because I tend to make a one trip
>
> Bumstead
>
> > out of projects like this, so it can be switched from boreing to
> > turning
>
> yadda
>
> > yadda.
> >
> > Setup ATM for making the nut described above. load it into LinuxCNC,
> > and expand the backplot to get a good view of what it does.  Reading
> > the code
>
> will
>
> > show you where and what to modify for your project, if its usable at
> > all. ===cut here>
> > %
> > ( this is to make use of the g33 routine to carve a thread in the
> > format )
>
> ( of a
>
> > pipe thread, in this case an odd size that would resemble a 3/16" )
> > ( pipe thread is indeed there ever was such a thing. :) ( because
> > that seems to
>
> be a
>
> > Merican only thing, all starting dimensions are in inch) ( there is
> > a BS
>
> spec,
>
> > looks a lot like ASTME to me :) ( since everything is converted to
> > metric
>
> below,
>
> > make sure its in metric mode) ( We start not with a Merican
> > fractonal, but
>
> at
>
> > any arbitrary size ) ( and tpi, and degrees of taper desired if
> > desired. )
>
> ( length
>
> > of taper will be based on the thickness of the nut, which will
> > determine )
>
> (
>
> > that the stated angle will be true for the length of the nut ) (
> > however,
>
> the
>
> > actual Z travel will be longer since the initial Z should be a ) (
> > couple
>
> mm's
>
> > from first contact.)
> > (logopen,/home/gene/linuxcnc/g33debug.txt)
> > G21 (metric)
> > G8 (lathe radius mode)
> > G61
> > S350
> > ( set straight, like g76 by bypassing the G33 stuff)
> > #<_do_taper>= 0.00
> > #<_taper_deg>   = 7 ( degrees here, translates to sin[7]  later)
> > #<_bore_turn>   = 0. ( 1 for bore, zero for an
>
> external
>
> > profile)
> > #<_input_is_inch>   = 1. ( zero for all metric inputs)
> > #<_tpi> =   50 (adjustable. If input is inches,
>
> use inch, else
>
> > PUT mm's here)
> > #<_mkmmfctr>=   25.4 (inch <-> metric conversion)
> > ( constants from Cecils images )
> > #<_e_xz_fctr>   =   0.708200 ( external -x +z combined 
> > feed
> > factor)
> > #<_e_doc_fctr>  =   0.613400 ( external thread
>
> d.o.c. external
>
> > cuts deeper)
> > #<_i_xz_fctr>   =   0.625000 ( internal +x +z combined 
> > feed
> > factor)
> > #<_i_doc_fctr>  =   0.542700 ( internal thread
>
> d.o.c. internal
>
> > is shallower)
> > (edit these)
> > #<_start_OD>=   0.7550 ( this is inches at the 
> > min/max
>
> OD
>
> > of thread it fits)
> > #<_thread_len>  =   0.5600 (is inc

Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Ken Strauss]

Thanks but...
Isn't G76 for threading on a lathe and G33.1 for rigid tapping? I'm doing
thread milling.

> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 2:07 PM
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix
>
> On Wednesday 21 March 2018 10:47:31 Ken Strauss wrote:
>
> > I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe
> > threads -- NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in
> > incremental mode to approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable?
> > Is there a better way? Will cumulative errors bite me after hundreds
> > of incremental moves?
> >
> How big, Ken? Inside I assume... I have used both the G76 and G33.1 for
low
> angle stuffs by setting the entrance or exit paper length to
> 1 pitch less than the length of the thread.  The man page is wrong when
says
> the taper limit is 1/2 the thread length. I think that could be extended
by
> doing the first using that rule of one pitch less than the total stroke,
and if
> thats not deep enough, advance the z a multiple of the pitch, I've not
proved
> it, might need some adjusting, and reduce the starting r by the height
> difference used in the first pass.
>
> I have used this code to make a socket in the end of a shaft, that with a
> matching taper threaded nut, and making 4 petals out of the walls with
edm,
> to compress an A2 shaft onto a smallish ball screw, by tightening the nut.
Its
> driving the x axis of my Sheldon 11x36 right now. With some green
> threadlocker in the socket, I don't expect it to slip until I loosen the
nut.
>
> Here is that file, quite complex because I tend to make a one trip
Bumstead
> out of projects like this, so it can be switched from boreing to turning
yadda
> yadda.
>
> Setup ATM for making the nut described above. load it into LinuxCNC, and
> expand the backplot to get a good view of what it does.  Reading the code
will
> show you where and what to modify for your project, if its usable at all.
> ===cut here>
> %
> ( this is to make use of the g33 routine to carve a thread in the format )
( of a
> pipe thread, in this case an odd size that would resemble a 3/16" ) ( pipe
> thread is indeed there ever was such a thing. :) ( because that seems to
be a
> Merican only thing, all starting dimensions are in inch) ( there is a BS
spec,
> looks a lot like ASTME to me :) ( since everything is converted to metric
below,
> make sure its in metric mode) ( We start not with a Merican fractonal, but
at
> any arbitrary size ) ( and tpi, and degrees of taper desired if desired. )
( length
> of taper will be based on the thickness of the nut, which will determine )
(
> that the stated angle will be true for the length of the nut ) ( however,
the
> actual Z travel will be longer since the initial Z should be a ) ( couple
mm's
> from first contact.)
> (logopen,/home/gene/linuxcnc/g33debug.txt)
> G21 (metric)
> G8 (lathe radius mode)
> G61
> S350
> ( set straight, like g76 by bypassing the G33 stuff)
> #<_do_taper>  = 0.00
> #<_taper_deg> = 7 ( degrees here, translates to sin[7]  later)
> #<_bore_turn> = 0. ( 1 for bore, zero for an
external
> profile)
> #<_input_is_inch> = 1. ( zero for all metric inputs)
> #<_tpi>   =   50 (adjustable. If input is inches,
use inch, else
> PUT mm's here)
> #<_mkmmfctr>  =   25.4 (inch <-> metric conversion)
> ( constants from Cecils images )
> #<_e_xz_fctr> =   0.708200 ( external -x +z combined feed
> factor)
> #<_e_doc_fctr>=   0.613400 ( external thread
d.o.c. external
> cuts deeper)
> #<_i_xz_fctr> =   0.625000 ( internal +x +z combined feed
> factor)
> #<_i_doc_fctr>=   0.542700 ( internal thread
d.o.c. internal
> is shallower)
> (edit these)
> #<_start_OD>  =   0.7550 ( this is inches at the min/max
OD
> of thread it fits)
> #<_thread_len>=   0.5600 (is inches, thickness of
nut I
> started with )
> #<_passes>= 25. (easy on the tool, constant advance)
> #<_spring_passes> = 5.
>
>
> (z advance derived from Cecils images IS NOT 100% CORRECT YET)
> #<_e_z_advance>   = [[#<_e_xz_fctr> - #<_e_doc_fctr>] /
#<_passes>]
> #<_i_z_advance>   = [[#<_i_xz_fctr> - #<_i_doc_fctr>] /
#<_passes>]
> (log,38 e z advance per pass=#<_e_z_advance>)
> (log,39 i z advance per pass=#<_i_z_advance>) ( now the x increments)
> #<_e_x_advance>   = [#<_e_doc_fctr> / #<_passes>]
> #<_i_x_advance>   = [#<_i_doc_fctr> / #<_passes>]
> (log,43 e x advance per pass=#<_e_x_advance>)
> (log,44 i x advance per pass=#<_i_x_advance>) ( these figures s/b very
small )
>
> o005 IF [#<_input_is_inch> gt 0.5000]
>
> #<_tpmm>  = [#<_mkmmfctr> / #<_tpi>] (mm's! - is correct )
> #<_start_OD>  = [#<_s

Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 21 March 2018 10:47:31 Ken Strauss wrote:

> I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe
> threads -- NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in
> incremental mode to approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable?
> Is there a better way? Will cumulative errors bite me after hundreds
> of incremental moves?
>
How big, Ken? Inside I assume... I have used both the G76 and G33.1 
for low angle stuffs by setting the entrance or exit paper length to 
1 pitch less than the length of the thread.  The man page is wrong when 
says the taper limit is 1/2 the thread length. I think that could be 
extended by doing the first using that rule of one pitch less than the total 
stroke, and if thats not deep enough, advance the z a multiple of the pitch,
I've not proved it, might need some adjusting, and reduce the starting r 
by the height difference used in the first pass.

I have used this code to make a socket in the end of a shaft, that with a 
matching taper threaded nut, and making 4 petals out of the walls with 
edm, to compress an A2 shaft onto a smallish ball screw, by tightening 
the nut. Its driving the x axis of my Sheldon 11x36 right now. With some 
green threadlocker in the socket, I don't expect it to slip until I 
loosen the nut.

Here is that file, quite complex because I tend to make a one trip 
Bumstead out of projects like this, so it can be switched from boreing 
to turning yadda yadda.

Setup ATM for making the nut described above. load it into LinuxCNC, 
and expand the backplot to get a good view of what it does.  Reading 
the code will show you where and what to modify for your project, if
its usable at all.
===cut here>
%
( this is to make use of the g33 routine to carve a thread in the format )
( of a pipe thread, in this case an odd size that would resemble a 3/16" )
( pipe thread is indeed there ever was such a thing. :)
( because that seems to be a Merican only thing, all starting dimensions are in 
inch)
( there is a BS spec, looks a lot like ASTME to me :)
( since everything is converted to metric below, make sure its in metric mode)
( We start not with a Merican fractonal, but at any arbitrary size )
( and tpi, and degrees of taper desired if desired. )
( length of taper will be based on the thickness of the nut, which will 
determine )
( that the stated angle will be true for the length of the nut )
( however, the actual Z travel will be longer since the initial Z should be a )
( couple mm's from first contact.)
(logopen,/home/gene/linuxcnc/g33debug.txt)
G21 (metric)
G8 (lathe radius mode)
G61
S350
( set straight, like g76 by bypassing the G33 stuff)
#<_do_taper>= 0.00
#<_taper_deg>   = 7 ( degrees here, translates to sin[7]  later)
#<_bore_turn>   = 0. ( 1 for bore, zero for an external profile)
#<_input_is_inch>   = 1. ( zero for all metric inputs)
#<_tpi> =   50 (adjustable. If input is inches, use inch, 
else PUT mm's here)
#<_mkmmfctr>=   25.4 (inch <-> metric conversion)
( constants from Cecils images )
#<_e_xz_fctr>   =   0.708200 ( external -x +z combined feed 
factor)
#<_e_doc_fctr>  =   0.613400 ( external thread d.o.c. external 
cuts deeper)
#<_i_xz_fctr>   =   0.625000 ( internal +x +z combined feed 
factor)
#<_i_doc_fctr>  =   0.542700 ( internal thread d.o.c. internal 
is shallower)
(edit these)
#<_start_OD>=   0.7550 ( this is inches at the min/max OD 
of thread it fits)
#<_thread_len>  =   0.5600 (is inches, thickness of nut I 
started with )
#<_passes>  = 25. (easy on the tool, constant advance)
#<_spring_passes>   = 5.


(z advance derived from Cecils images IS NOT 100% CORRECT YET)
#<_e_z_advance> = [[#<_e_xz_fctr> - #<_e_doc_fctr>] / #<_passes>]
#<_i_z_advance> = [[#<_i_xz_fctr> - #<_i_doc_fctr>] / #<_passes>]
(log,38 e z advance per pass=#<_e_z_advance>)
(log,39 i z advance per pass=#<_i_z_advance>)
( now the x increments)
#<_e_x_advance> = [#<_e_doc_fctr> / #<_passes>]
#<_i_x_advance> = [#<_i_doc_fctr> / #<_passes>]
(log,43 e x advance per pass=#<_e_x_advance>)
(log,44 i x advance per pass=#<_i_x_advance>)
( these figures s/b very small )

o005 IF [#<_input_is_inch> gt 0.5000]

#<_tpmm>= [#<_mkmmfctr> / #<_tpi>] (mm's! - is correct )
#<_start_OD>= [#<_start_OD> * 0.500 * #<_mkmmfctr>]
#<_thread_len>  = [#<_thread_len> * #<_mkmmfctr>]

o005 ELSE

#<_tpmm>= #<_tpi>

o005 ENDIF
(log,57 tpmm=#<_tpmm>)
(log,58 start OD in mm=#<_start_OD>)
(log,59 thread length in mm=#<_thread_len>)

( now we have the Major radius start_OD that everything else references one way 
or another )
#<_e_x_mnr_R>   =   [#<_start_OD> + [#<_e_doc_fctr> * #<_tpmm>]] ( 
final d.o.c. )
#<_e_x_mjr_R>   =   [#<_sta

Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[andy pugh]

On 21 March 2018 at 17:39, Ken Strauss  wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions but I'm confused. Does G1 in polar coordinates
> produce an arc or a straight line?

I don't know :-) (I was miles away from my LinuxCNC machines when I wrote that)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Ken Strauss]

Thanks for the suggestions but I'm confused. Does G1 in polar coordinates 
produce an arc or a straight line?

> -Original Message-
> From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:49 AM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix
>
> On 21 March 2018 at 14:47, Ken Strauss  wrote:
> > I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe
> > threads -- NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in
> > incremental mode to approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable?
> > Is there a better way? Will cumulative errors bite me after hundreds of
> incremental moves?
>
> Why use incremental mode? It is probably just as easy to use variables and a
> loop
>
> Polar coordinates ought to work, but you can approximate a spiral with arcs
> too. (I would guess that 8 per rev would be better than 4 per
> rev)
>
> In polar, and not using incremental, something like this, assuming you are
> already at X0 Y0
>
> # = -1
> # = [1 / 13] ; 13TPI
> # = [1 / 2] ; radius of 1" thread
> F10
> G0 Z #
> G1 ^0 @#
> O100 DO
> G1 ^90 @[# + # /64]  Z[# + # * 0.25]
> G1 ^180 @[# + # / 32]  Z[# + # * 0.5]
> G1 ^ 270 @[# + # / 21.33]  Z[# + # * 0.75]
> G1 ^ 360 @[# + # / 16]  Z[# + # * 1.0]
> # = [# + #]
> O100 WHILE [# LT #]
>
> This uses 4 arcs. It could be done exactly the same with more, for a closer
> approximation to a true spiral.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> - George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916
>
> --
> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging
> tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users



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Re: [Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[andy pugh]

On 21 March 2018 at 14:47, Ken Strauss  wrote:
> I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe threads --
> NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in incremental mode to
> approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable? Is there a better way? Will
> cumulative errors bite me after hundreds of incremental moves?

Why use incremental mode? It is probably just as easy to use variables
and a loop

Polar coordinates ought to work, but you can approximate a spiral with
arcs too. (I would guess that 8 per rev would be better than 4 per
rev)

In polar, and not using incremental, something like this, assuming you
are already at X0 Y0

# = -1
# = [1 / 13] ; 13TPI
# = [1 / 2] ; radius of 1" thread
F10
G0 Z #
G1 ^0 @#
O100 DO
G1 ^90 @[# + # /64]  Z[# + # * 0.25]
G1 ^180 @[# + # / 32]  Z[# + # * 0.5]
G1 ^ 270 @[# + # / 21.33]  Z[# + # * 0.75]
G1 ^ 360 @[# + # / 16]  Z[# + # * 1.0]
# = [# + #]
O100 WHILE [# LT #]

This uses 4 arcs. It could be done exactly the same with more, for a
closer approximation to a true spiral.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

--
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engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
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[Emc-users] Tapered Helix

[Ken Strauss]

I need to thread mill some tapered threads (similar to normal pipe threads --  
NPT). I am considering using polar coordinates in incremental mode to 
approximate a tapered helix. Is that reasonable? Is there a better way? Will 
cumulative errors bite me after hundreds of incremental moves?



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