Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Przemek Klosowski]

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 7:40 PM Bruce Layne
 wrote:

> Maybe remove most of the oily gunk with acetone, scrub with 60-100 grit
> sandpaper to create a rough surface for the epoxy to grab, then flood
> with isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly degrease the part prior to applying
> epoxy.
Maybe clean the residue with isopropanol BEFORE scouring the
surface---otherwise you could introduce oil into crevices that it'll
be hard to get out of.
Then sandpaper, and maybe one more isopropanol wipe for good measure.


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[dave engvall]

  I happen to use some of the quick setting JBweld today. I misspoke, 
it is not clear, grayish and black for the two parts. It may be just 
carbon black but who knows.


Almost every hardware store has Devcon products, slow setting and fast. 
At least some are clear. Sorry for the confusion. IIRC Devcon was pretty 
much the first entry into small tubes of 2 part epoxy.


Dave

On 2/12/20 11:52 AM, David Berndt wrote:
Not directly glue advise. But gear tooth sensor advise. Don't let the 
heads of those things rip off and go through my gear head mill's bevel 
gear teeth. Not pretty. No teeth broke but there is a surprising 
amount of quite hard metal in the middle of something like an Allegro 
ATS675 it seems. The gears were nowhere near silent before, but 
they're louder now for the experience.



-Dave

On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 13:27:48 -0500, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:



Greetings all;

I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq raised
to 800 megs.

All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the
heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for
spindle oil had flung out of the side face of the bronze bearing and
given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.

Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with 
signs of

the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated enough to break
its wraping wire connections. They were glued into pockets machined in
the mounting bracket which if the glue worked had them spaced about 5
thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu bracket made of of 7075
scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6 wood screw which is
currently sitting with the point of the screw in the middle of the face
of the loose index generating 667 after the alu was well washed by
acetone and then filling its pocket in the bracket with shoe goop, same
stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do the same with the other.

Cleaned up with acetone of course.

Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very short
lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.

The go-2 lasted about 2 years.

What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
light 00w20 for many years?

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett



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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 12 February 2020 14:52:38 David Berndt wrote:

> Not directly glue advise. But gear tooth sensor advise. Don't let the
> heads of those things rip off and go through my gear head mill's bevel
> gear teeth. Not pretty. No teeth broke but there is a surprising
> amount of quite hard metal in the middle of something like an Allegro
> ATS675 it seems. The gears were nowhere near silent before, but
> they're louder now for the experience.
>
They all contain a super strength for its size, ferrite based bias 
magnet, and its close to diamond in hardness. I'm not surprised it 
damaged the teeth that crushed it. Given enough time they will probably 
wear back silent. Might be measured in years though.

Some of the resultant powder could be removed in an ultrsonic cleaner but 
it would have to be a strong one, with a magnet in the bottom to collect 
the magnetic dust before it sticks to the gear again.

> -Dave
>
> On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 13:27:48 -0500, Gene Heskett
> 
>
> wrote:
> > Greetings all;
> >
> > I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq
> > raised to 800 megs.
> >
> > All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the
> > heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for
> > spindle oil had flung out of the inside face of the bronze bearing 
and
> > given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.
> >
> > Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with
> > signs of the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated
> > enough to break its wraping wire connections. They were glued into
> > pockets machined in the mounting bracket which if the glue worked
> > had them spaced about 5 thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu
> > bracket made of of 7075 scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6
> > wood screw which is currently sitting with the point of the screw in
> > the middle of the face of the loose index generating 667 after the
> > alu was well washed by acetone and then filling its pocket in the
> > bracket with shoe goop, same stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do
> > the same with the other.
> >
> > Cleaned up with acetone of course.
> >
> > Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very
> > short lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.
> >
> > The go-2 lasted about 2 years.
> >
> > What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment
> > of light 00w20 for many years?
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in def+ense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[David Berndt]

Not directly glue advise. But gear tooth sensor advise. Don't let the  
heads of those things rip off and go through my gear head mill's bevel  
gear teeth. Not pretty. No teeth broke but there is a surprising amount of  
quite hard metal in the middle of something like an Allegro ATS675 it  
seems. The gears were nowhere near silent before, but they're louder now  
for the experience.



-Dave

On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 13:27:48 -0500, Gene Heskett   
wrote:



Greetings all;

I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq raised
to 800 megs.

All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the
heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for
spindle oil had flung out of the side face of the bronze bearing and
given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.

Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with signs of
the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated enough to break
its wraping wire connections. They were glued into pockets machined in
the mounting bracket which if the glue worked had them spaced about 5
thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu bracket made of of 7075
scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6 wood screw which is
currently sitting with the point of the screw in the middle of the face
of the loose index generating 667 after the alu was well washed by
acetone and then filling its pocket in the bracket with shoe goop, same
stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do the same with the other.

Cleaned up with acetone of course.

Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very short
lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.

The go-2 lasted about 2 years.

What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
light 00w20 for many years?

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett



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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 12 February 2020 12:14:24 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 02/11/2020 10:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Tuesday 11 February 2020 21:55:55 Jon Elson wrote:
> >> I used either PC-7, in the red and black metal cans.  I have
> >> not had any problems so far.
> >>
> >> Jon
> >
> > And where might I src that Jon? I don't recall seeing that at my
> > usual git'n places.
>
> My local Ace hardware at least USED to have the PC7 in 4 Oz
> metal cans.  I see they now also
> have it on hanging cards with some smaller (plastic?) tubs.
> Just look for PC-7 it is fairly common
> hardware stuff.  I expect that JB Weld will also work fine.

My local Ace up the slab 20 some miles in Bridgeport folded a couple 
years back, so my closest is Lowes in Buckhannon, also about 20 miles, 
NAPA and TSC are the locals, but TSC has almost nothing in glues except 
maybe an old carb of jbweld, Advance Auto might be worth checking, next 
door to TSC. I've got to hit wallies for Dee some more yogurt yet today 
so I'll check there and Advance while I'm out. In the meantime the 
encoder is under clamps with some jbweld but I got to trace and restore 
the ats667 wiring for the last one that came loose.  Amazingly it did 
not grind up the ats667's. Even loose in the slots they were trapped in 
the pockets well enough to protect them from major damage.  That faint 
knocking sound? Me, knocking on wood while I took it out. lol.

Thanks Jon.

> Jon
>
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Jon Elson]

On 02/11/2020 10:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 21:55:55 Jon Elson wrote:



I used either PC-7, in the red and black metal cans.  I have
not had any problems so far.

Jon

And where might I src that Jon? I don't recall seeing that at my usual
git'n places.



My local Ace hardware at least USED to have the PC7 in 4 Oz 
metal cans.  I see they now also
have it on hanging cards with some smaller (plastic?) tubs.  
Just look for PC-7 it is fairly common

hardware stuff.  I expect that JB Weld will also work fine.

Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 21:55:55 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 02/11/2020 12:27 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment
> > of light 00w20 for many years?
>
> I used either PC-7, in the red and black metal cans.  I have
> not had any problems so far.
>
> Jon

And where might I src that Jon? I don't recall seeing that at my usual 
git'n places.


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Jon Elson]

On 02/11/2020 12:27 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:


What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
light 00w20 for many years?


I used either PC-7, in the red and black metal cans.  I have 
not had any problems so far.


Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 20:17:12 dave engvall wrote:

> I like the idea of iso-propanol. The only thing that would improve the
> process is vapor degreasing. The trick of a non-filled epoxy as a
> primer is good. Why didn't I think of that. ;-)
>
> The Navy uses acetone for degreasing  before using loc-tite on their
> nuclear stuff. Degrease, blow dry, add primer, insert fastener. Who
> know what grade of acetone they use ... probably analytical grade. ;-)
> Or the really fancy stuff for  pesticide residue analysis.
>
> Please understand...if I'm not careful I can learn something everyday.
>
> Dave
>
> On 2/11/20 4:38 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
> >> On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett
> >> 
> >>
> >> wrote:
> >>> Cleaned up with acetone of course.
> >
> > Cleaning with acetone will result in a good epoxy bond.  Cleaning
> > with isopropyl alcohol will result in an excellent epoxy bond. 
> > Commercial acetone, at least in the US, is recovered from industrial
> > processes. It's distilled, but a trace amount of the waste oil
> > remains in the acetone after the distillation process and will leave
> > a slight oily film on your parts after the acetone evaporates.  It's
> > not enough to feel or see, but it's enough to prevent the best
> > possible epoxy bond.
> >
> > Maybe remove most of the oily gunk with acetone, scrub with 60-100
> > grit sandpaper to create a rough surface for the epoxy to grab, then
> > flood with isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly degrease the part prior
> > to applying epoxy.  I'll sometimes use a clean blue paper shop towel
> > or toothbrush with the alcohol at first if some physical scrubbing
> > is still needed. I'll finish the job with a spray bottle with
> > isopropyl alcohol to blast off the last traces of oil, allowing the
> > alcohol and suspended oil to drip off the part, and then I don't
> > touch the part with my bare hands. You've made your own printed
> > circuit boards and the process is similar to the final step of
> > cleaning the bare copper board before the etch resist process.  When
> > the board is clean of oxides and oil free, the solvent will
> > uniformly wet the board, drip off the bottom edge, and the board
> > will dry from the top down leaving a matte finish.
> >
> > Pro Tip:  for the very best bond when using a filled epoxy, first
> > paint the bare surface with a thin layer of raw epoxy (resin and
> > hardener) before applying the filled epoxy (such as JB Weld).  The
> > unfilled epoxy can more easily penetrate the fine scratches on the
> > substrate, and the filled epoxy then binds to the unfilled epoxy. 
> > That's a tip from people who build composite fiberglass airplanes.
> >
I used  to clean video tape heads with freon-tf, several times a day. Got 
boring. Ran out of tf, so switched to paint thinner grade alky from Ace 
Hdwe.  Noticed I was only doing it maybe weekly.  Never went back to tf. 
My contribution to closing the ozone hole at the south pole. 
> >
> >
> >
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 19:38:01 Bruce Layne wrote:

> > On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett 
> >
> > wrote:
> >> Cleaned up with acetone of course.
>
> Cleaning with acetone will result in a good epoxy bond.  Cleaning with
> isopropyl alcohol will result in an excellent epoxy bond.  Commercial
> acetone, at least in the US, is recovered from industrial processes. 
> It's distilled, but a trace amount of the waste oil remains in the
> acetone after the distillation process and will leave a slight oily
> film on your parts after the acetone evaporates.  It's not enough to
> feel or see, but it's enough to prevent the best possible epoxy bond.
>
> Maybe remove most of the oily gunk with acetone, scrub with 60-100
> grit sandpaper to create a rough surface for the epoxy to grab, then
> flood with isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly degrease the part prior to
> applying epoxy.  I'll sometimes use a clean blue paper shop towel or
> toothbrush with the alcohol at first if some physical scrubbing is
> still needed. I'll finish the job with a spray bottle with isopropyl
> alcohol to blast off the last traces of oil, allowing the alcohol and
> suspended oil to drip off the part, and then I don't touch the part
> with my bare hands. You've made your own printed circuit boards and
> the process is similar to the final step of cleaning the bare copper
> board before the etch resist process.  When the board is clean of
> oxides and oil free, the solvent will uniformly wet the board, drip
> off the bottom edge, and the board will dry from the top down leaving
> a matte finish.
>
> Pro Tip:  for the very best bond when using a filled epoxy, first
> paint the bare surface with a thin layer of raw epoxy (resin and
> hardener) before applying the filled epoxy (such as JB Weld).  The
> unfilled epoxy can more easily penetrate the fine scratches on the
> substrate, and the filled epoxy then binds to the unfilled epoxy. 
> That's a tip from people who build composite fiberglass airplanes.
>
Too late Bruce, washed with acetone and plumbers purple primer and is 
under clamps atm, some added scratches with my pocket knife and a wee 
bit of jbweld.  We'll see if its still in time in the morning. I put the 
first one back in with lots of goop, so if the quadrature's no good, I 
can cut it loose and shim it one way or the other.

Thanks Bruce.
>
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[dave engvall]

I like the idea of iso-propanol. The only thing that would improve the 
process is vapor degreasing. The trick of a non-filled epoxy as a primer 
is good. Why didn't I think of that. ;-)


The Navy uses acetone for degreasing  before using loc-tite on their 
nuclear stuff. Degrease, blow dry, add primer, insert fastener. Who know 
what grade of acetone they use ... probably analytical grade. ;-) Or the 
really fancy stuff for  pesticide residue analysis.


Please understand...if I'm not careful I can learn something everyday.

Dave

On 2/11/20 4:38 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:



On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett 
wrote:


Cleaned up with acetone of course.


Cleaning with acetone will result in a good epoxy bond.  Cleaning with
isopropyl alcohol will result in an excellent epoxy bond.  Commercial
acetone, at least in the US, is recovered from industrial processes.
It's distilled, but a trace amount of the waste oil remains in the
acetone after the distillation process and will leave a slight oily film
on your parts after the acetone evaporates.  It's not enough to feel or
see, but it's enough to prevent the best possible epoxy bond.

Maybe remove most of the oily gunk with acetone, scrub with 60-100 grit
sandpaper to create a rough surface for the epoxy to grab, then flood
with isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly degrease the part prior to applying
epoxy.  I'll sometimes use a clean blue paper shop towel or toothbrush
with the alcohol at first if some physical scrubbing is still needed.
I'll finish the job with a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol to blast
off the last traces of oil, allowing the alcohol and suspended oil to
drip off the part, and then I don't touch the part with my bare hands.
You've made your own printed circuit boards and the process is similar
to the final step of cleaning the bare copper board before the etch
resist process.  When the board is clean of oxides and oil free, the
solvent will uniformly wet the board, drip off the bottom edge, and the
board will dry from the top down leaving a matte finish.

Pro Tip:  for the very best bond when using a filled epoxy, first paint
the bare surface with a thin layer of raw epoxy (resin and hardener)
before applying the filled epoxy (such as JB Weld).  The unfilled epoxy
can more easily penetrate the fine scratches on the substrate, and the
filled epoxy then binds to the unfilled epoxy.  That's a tip from people
who build composite fiberglass airplanes.




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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Chris Albertson]

I have never tested WB Weld with a magnet.   I have a bunch of powerfull
magnets around and never thought to see if one would stick to a tube of JB
Weld.

But I've used other epoxy systems.  You can mix many things with epoxy, up
to over 80% by volume and the composite is MUCH stronger than pure epoxy.
JB uses metal but it is much more common to use glass or carbon fiber or
silica powder.   I have a container of "milled fiber" that is basically
glass dust as fine as baking flour.  That stuff mixed with epoxy turns out
about as hard as glass.

Used this why the epoxy is not so much a glue but a part that is shaped by
the space it filles, hence the advice to cut a key or retaining grooves.

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 11:56 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Tuesday 11 February 2020 13:34:29 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > "JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder.
> >  Get it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.
> >
> It it magnetic enough to fool an ATS-667?  Thats been the reason I
> haven't tried it. I have some but it could be getting old by now.
>
> Thanks Chris.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Bruce Layne]

> On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
>> Cleaned up with acetone of course.


Cleaning with acetone will result in a good epoxy bond.  Cleaning with
isopropyl alcohol will result in an excellent epoxy bond.  Commercial
acetone, at least in the US, is recovered from industrial processes. 
It's distilled, but a trace amount of the waste oil remains in the
acetone after the distillation process and will leave a slight oily film
on your parts after the acetone evaporates.  It's not enough to feel or
see, but it's enough to prevent the best possible epoxy bond.

Maybe remove most of the oily gunk with acetone, scrub with 60-100 grit
sandpaper to create a rough surface for the epoxy to grab, then flood
with isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly degrease the part prior to applying
epoxy.  I'll sometimes use a clean blue paper shop towel or toothbrush
with the alcohol at first if some physical scrubbing is still needed. 
I'll finish the job with a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol to blast
off the last traces of oil, allowing the alcohol and suspended oil to
drip off the part, and then I don't touch the part with my bare hands. 
You've made your own printed circuit boards and the process is similar
to the final step of cleaning the bare copper board before the etch
resist process.  When the board is clean of oxides and oil free, the
solvent will uniformly wet the board, drip off the bottom edge, and the
board will dry from the top down leaving a matte finish.

Pro Tip:  for the very best bond when using a filled epoxy, first paint
the bare surface with a thin layer of raw epoxy (resin and hardener)
before applying the filled epoxy (such as JB Weld).  The unfilled epoxy
can more easily penetrate the fine scratches on the substrate, and the
filled epoxy then binds to the unfilled epoxy.  That's a tip from people
who build composite fiberglass airplanes.




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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[dave engvall]

AFIK Araldite is a non-filled epoxy. I've always taken that as the Brit 
name for plain epoxy.  OTOH JB also make a clear 5 min expoy as do 
others. I grew up with a  quart of (Shell at the tme) Epon828 in the 
cupboard. Handy stuff. I once mixed an epoxy using tri-mellitc  (sp??) 
anhydride  as a catalyst. Beautiful yellow color and good to 300-400 F. 
That was about 60 years ago so spelling, etc is iffy.


On 2/11/20 11:57 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 14:20:01 Marcus Bowman wrote:


On 11 Feb 2020, at 18:34, Chris Albertson wrote:

"JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel
powder.   Get it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett 

wrote:

What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment
of light 00w20 for many years?

My bet would be on Araldite or the equivalent of JB Weld.
I would roughen the aluminium surface, and try to give it an undercut
'key' of some sort. I would do the same with any plastic. I might even
put some fine copper wire around the package and leave flying ends so
that they too would provide some extra security if they are embedded
in the epoxy.


Thanks Marcus, thats two votes for JBW now. I'll get some fresh stuff and
give it a try.

Cheers, Gene Heskett



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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[dave engvall]

Yep! As long as your environment doesn't  have chlorinated solvents you 
are OK. Even my Ace Hdwe carries it.


Dave

On 2/11/20 10:34 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:

"JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder.   Get
it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:


Greetings all;

I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq raised
to 800 megs.

All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the
heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for
spindle oil had flung out of the side face of the bronze bearing and
given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.

Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with signs of
the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated enough to break
its wraping wire connections. They were glued into pockets machined in
the mounting bracket which if the glue worked had them spaced about 5
thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu bracket made of of 7075
scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6 wood screw which is
currently sitting with the point of the screw in the middle of the face
of the loose index generating 667 after the alu was well washed by
acetone and then filling its pocket in the bracket with shoe goop, same
stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do the same with the other.

Cleaned up with acetone of course.

Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very short
lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.

The go-2 lasted about 2 years.

What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
light 00w20 for many years?

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
  - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Bruce Layne]

On 2/11/20 2:53 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 11 February 2020 13:34:29 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
>> "JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder. 
>>  Get it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.
>>
> It it magnetic enough to fool an ATS-667?  Thats been the reason I 
> haven't tried it. I have some but it could be getting old by now.


These gear tooth sensors use a couple of tricks that allow them to
automatically compensate for installation variables - hysteresis,
automatic gain control, etc.  The electronics after the Hall effect
sensors accentuate the difference in the signals.  Rather than having a
fixed threshold, they're adaptive.  I was almost sure that was the case
for your part but I double checked with the datasheet.

https://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Sense/Magnetic-Speed/Transmission-Sensor-ICs/ATS667

 "High-resolution peak detecting DACs are used to set the
 adaptive switching thresholds of the device. Hysteresis in
 the thresholds reduces the negative effects of any anomalies
 in the magnetic signal associated with the targets used in
 many automotive applications."

Unless you completely bury the sensor in JB Weld, you should be OK. 
It's designed for automotive applications.  It'd probably work beneath a
couple of millimeters of JB Weld.




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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 14:20:01 Marcus Bowman wrote:

> On 11 Feb 2020, at 18:34, Chris Albertson wrote:
> > "JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel
> > powder.   Get it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.
> >
> > On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> >> What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment
> >> of light 00w20 for many years?
>
> My bet would be on Araldite or the equivalent of JB Weld.
> I would roughen the aluminium surface, and try to give it an undercut
> 'key' of some sort. I would do the same with any plastic. I might even
> put some fine copper wire around the package and leave flying ends so
> that they too would provide some extra security if they are embedded
> in the epoxy.
>
Thanks Marcus, thats two votes for JBW now. I'll get some fresh stuff and 
give it a try.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 11 February 2020 13:34:29 Chris Albertson wrote:

> "JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder. 
>  Get it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.
>
It it magnetic enough to fool an ATS-667?  Thats been the reason I 
haven't tried it. I have some but it could be getting old by now.

Thanks Chris.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Marcus Bowman]

On 11 Feb 2020, at 18:34, Chris Albertson wrote:

> "JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder.   Get
> it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.
> 
> On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
>> light 00w20 for many years?
>> 

My bet would be on Araldite or the equivalent of JB Weld.
I would roughen the aluminium surface, and try to give it an undercut 'key' of 
some sort. I would do the same with any plastic. I might even put some fine 
copper wire around the package and leave flying ends so that they too would 
provide some extra security if they are embedded in the epoxy.

Marcus
 

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Re: [Emc-users] question about glue

[Chris Albertson]

"JB Weld" Epoxy.  It is a mixture of two part epoxy and steel powder.   Get
it at any auto parts store or Home Depot.

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> Greetings all;
>
> I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq raised
> to 800 megs.
>
> All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the
> heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for
> spindle oil had flung out of the side face of the bronze bearing and
> given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.
>
> Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with signs of
> the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated enough to break
> its wraping wire connections. They were glued into pockets machined in
> the mounting bracket which if the glue worked had them spaced about 5
> thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu bracket made of of 7075
> scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6 wood screw which is
> currently sitting with the point of the screw in the middle of the face
> of the loose index generating 667 after the alu was well washed by
> acetone and then filling its pocket in the bracket with shoe goop, same
> stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do the same with the other.
>
> Cleaned up with acetone of course.
>
> Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very short
> lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.
>
> The go-2 lasted about 2 years.
>
> What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of
> light 00w20 for many years?
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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[Emc-users] question about glue

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

I went tp play with the lathe after reboot the rpi4 with cpu_freq raised 
to 800 megs.

All of a sudden the spindle tach got noisy, then quit. removeing the 
heads lid, I could see a good coat of the 5w20 I've been useing for 
spindle oil had flung out of the side face of the bronze bearing and 
given my encoder assembly a good coat of it.

Removeing it for a better look I found 2 of the 667's loose with signs of 
the bull gear touching them, with one having vibrated enough to break 
its wraping wire connections. They were glued into pockets machined in 
the mounting bracket which if the glue worked had them spaced about 5 
thou away from the bull gear in a curved alu bracket made of of 7075 
scrap. I've made a wooden c clamp with a #6 wood screw which is 
currently sitting with the point of the screw in the middle of the face 
of the loose index generating 667 after the alu was well washed by 
acetone and then filling its pocket in the bracket with shoe goop, same 
stuff as go-2.  And tomorrow I'll do the same with the other.

Cleaned up with acetone of course.

Previous attempts to glue then in place with super glue were very short 
lived, loose in a week.  Ditto with gelled super glue.

The go-2 lasted about 2 years.

What sort of glue can I use that can withstand an oily environment of 
light 00w20 for many years?

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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