Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-07 Thread Dave Cole
The Cheap Harbor freight blue flame helmets work fine.  I have two of 
them, or maybe three.. not sure.

Others agree.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/archive/index.php/t-37042.html

I know some professional welder friends that use them on a regular basis..

I'd be surprised if the Jackson did not work some what better ... but I 
can buy another welder for the difference in cost.

One of the downsides of the Harbor Freight helmets is that they can be 
too sensitive and flash to dark in bright sunlight.   But I can work 
around that.

I have a TIG, MIG and some sticks welders and I have no issues with any 
of them with the blue flame helmets.

Dave



On 12/6/2013 8:54 PM, MC Cason wrote:
 Gene,

 Sounds like you need a better helmet.

 I've used many different types of helmets over the years, and I
 finally settled on a Jackson helmet, with a NexGen module (~$400.00).  I
 use the same helmet for MIG, TIG, and Stick.  It's adjustable from
 shades 9 to 13, and when the batteries die, it defaults to dark.

 At shade 9, I can easily see the weld puddle, and surrounding metal.
 The flip time is fast, and will work down to 5 amps, which makes TIG'ing
 really easy.  Whatever you do, DO NOT get a cheapie auto darkening
 helmet.  The flip times can be too slow, and they can burn your eyes.

 I just ordered a aluminum kit for my for one of my portable welders,
 (Lincoln HD3200), so it's going to get a pretty good workout this weekend.


 On 12/06/2013 02:22 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Sounds like someone who has walked that walk,

 RANT MODE ON

 and a subject that brings up a sore point with me in that 55 years ago I
 could actually find an ND9 panel for my arc shield/helmet, making it usable
 but even then I preferred the smith wrench because of ones ability to
 modify the carbon content of the weld and see both the surroundings and the
 weld puddle thru a set of ND5's.

 Today its ND10's only, which are so damned dense you can't see where to
 strike the arc even with bright sunlight on the workpieces. And getting
 these high priced automatics set to work well is a dream I haven't managed
 to do well yet.  Mostly all you can see is the arc itself but dammit all to
 hell, one needs to be able to see the work surface for at least a cm around
 the arc in order to really be able to drive the j-stroke cleanly down the
 joint AND get good penetration.  I can manage to run my mig when I have to,
 but if I could actually see what the hell I was doing, I could do a hell of
 a lot better than I can do when blinded by excess ND.

 /RANT MODE.

 Cheers, Gene


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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Billy Huddleston
Burning wood, and etching metal are two different things.  30W lasers have a 
hard time etching Aluminum without a special paste applied to the part.  I 
don't think a 2W laser diode 
will do much to a PCB except maybe blacken it a bit.

Thanks, Billy

On 12/06/2013 12:55 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Greetings;

 On reading one article on the net about ripping up old dvd writers and
 using the nominally 2 watt laser diode to do some wood burning etc with
 them, it has occurred to me that there could possibly be a use for those
 diodes in 'etching' pcb's.  The article showed one mounted in a gantry
 machine, burning wood, from a quite decent distance away from the wood,
 perhaps an inch or 2.5cm above the surface of the wood.  The backblast
 didn't quite reach back up to the laser to dirty its lenses.

 So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a 1
 ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to leave a
 burned, conductive path where the copper was?

 I ask because I have 3 or 4 old dvd writers that no longer write a usable
 disk, although the written area can be seen on the throwaway disk.  Pack
 rat that I am, I haven't binned them yet.

 Cheers, Gene

-- 
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Office: 865.560.2752
Fax: 865.560.2703

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Florian Rist
Hi Gene

 So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a 1
 ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to leave a 
 burned, conductive path where the copper was?

I tried this with two different Lasers sources:

120 W CW CO2 Laser at 10600 µm wavelength:
Result: no way to 'burn' the copper. It was hardly possible to burn away
a the play of photosensitive coating used in the normal 'wet' process.

200W q-switched Yb:Yag Laser at 1064 µm:
Result: even the 25 kW max. pulse energy were not sufficient to burn
away the copper properly. It is possible to cut through the coper layer
by the precess is not controlled enough. The pulse energy would probably
have to be at least 10 times higher to establish a decent process. But
this laser removes the light sensitive coating quite well at low power
settings.

 I ask because I have 3 or 4 old dvd writers that no longer write a usable 
 disk, although the written area can be seen on the throwaway disk.  Pack 
 rat that I am, I haven't binned them yet.

No way to affect the coper layer with a diode from a DVD writer, but is
should be possible to expose the light sensitive coating using a low
power blue LED. So this could eliminate the traditional exposer
processes but you would sill have all the rest of the wet process.

See you
Flo

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Florian Rist
PS: There was a ns pulsed UV Laser (quadrupled YAG) on ebay recently,
this would be the right one for the job. I was close to buying it was
quite cheap.

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread David Armstrong
On 06/12/13 18:10, Florian Rist wrote:
 PS: There was a ns pulsed UV Laser (quadrupled YAG) on ebay recently,
 this would be the right one for the job. I was close to buying it was
 quite cheap.

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Gene ,
unfortunatly not , copper for one will absorb the heat .
and for a laser to work it realy needs to vaporise the metal , which is 
one reason you see dvd lasers burning wood or plastics
rather than a clean cut .

iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it
although the fr4 will burn quite nicely and be nice and crisp and fill 
your room with unfortunate toxins

Dave

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Florian Rist
Hi David

 iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it

Yes, 600W is not enough. That's why a q-switched laser with short pulses
is needed. Pulse peek energy on my laser is 25 kW, that's still not
enough, the one on the mentioned laser was about 1 MW. This instantly
turns the coper into plasma. Its not melting not vaporising it, it tuns
a very thin layer into plasma within less than a ns. This process is
very controlled an would allow to remove the 35 mµ of coper in multiple
paths without heating the FR4 and without hardly removing any of it.

cu
Flo

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 13:18:03 Billy Huddleston did opine:

 Burning wood, and etching metal are two different things.  30W lasers
 have a hard time etching Aluminum without a special paste applied to
 the part.  I don't think a 2W laser diode will do much to a PCB except
 maybe blacken it a bit.
 
 Thanks, Billy

Well good, that heads me off at the pass then, thank you.

What I had in mind was to pulse it, maintaining the 2 watt average, but 
banging it with 200 watts for .5% of the time, 1 u-sec on, 100 off.  The 
burners themselves do that for the duration of the pit being burned AIUI, 
but not quite that great a ratio since they can be on for about 90% of the 
time under certain encodings for several hundred microseconds.  First 
purchase of course is a set of those narrowband sunglasses to match the 
diode used.  I haven't scrapped any blue-rays yet, they are either not yet 
in wide use in recorders, or a much longer lasting technology.  Fancy way 
of saying I don't have one in the junque pile, yet.
;-)

So, ways and means to make a quick change spindle that cranks up a 100k rev 
dental tool may be in the next path explored. 2500 revs max with this one 
means I can't run more than about 2 ipm if I want clean cutting, at 5 I 
have to drop it on a sheet of 600 grit wet-r-dry, wet, and sand-cut the 
burrs off before I can turn it over to do the back side else they hold the 
board at random heights at random locations on the board, not very 
conducive to nice, just thru the copper etching.  The bearings in this 
spindle are now fairly old, and take a beating from a hammer on the draw 
bolt head every time I change tools, so I am slightly amazed they haven't 
went tits up already, but asking for even 25 grand seems like a quick way 
to burn these up.

I have a vision of something that I can interchange in the current quill 
mount by unclamping it, pulling the handle rack shaft out and pulling the 
existing quill, gearcase and motor out, which is something in the 10 cm 
diameter range.  Also with the drive motor on top, but stolen from an old 
dremel perhaps.  Either direct drive, or perhaps a gear up using pulleys 
and o-rings in the area above the head casting.  But so far its in the what 
if stage. :)

 On 12/06/2013 12:55 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings;
  
  On reading one article on the net about ripping up old dvd writers and
  using the nominally 2 watt laser diode to do some wood burning etc
  with them, it has occurred to me that there could possibly be a use
  for those diodes in 'etching' pcb's.  The article showed one mounted
  in a gantry machine, burning wood, from a quite decent distance away
  from the wood, perhaps an inch or 2.5cm above the surface of the
  wood.  The backblast didn't quite reach back up to the laser to dirty
  its lenses.
  
  So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a 1
  ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to leave
  a burned, conductive path where the copper was?
  
  I ask because I have 3 or 4 old dvd writers that no longer write a
  usable disk, although the written area can be seen on the throwaway
  disk.  Pack rat that I am, I haven't binned them yet.
  
  Cheers, Gene


Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 13:46:26 Florian Rist did opine:

 Hi Gene
 
  So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a 1
  ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to leave
  a burned, conductive path where the copper was?
 
 I tried this with two different Lasers sources:
 
 120 W CW CO2 Laser at 10600 µm wavelength:
 Result: no way to 'burn' the copper. It was hardly possible to burn away
 a the play of photosensitive coating used in the normal 'wet' process.
 
 200W q-switched Yb:Yag Laser at 1064 µm:
 Result: even the 25 kW max. pulse energy were not sufficient to burn
 away the copper properly. It is possible to cut through the coper layer
 by the precess is not controlled enough. The pulse energy would probably
 have to be at least 10 times higher to establish a decent process. But
 this laser removes the light sensitive coating quite well at low power
 settings.
 
  I ask because I have 3 or 4 old dvd writers that no longer write a
  usable disk, although the written area can be seen on the throwaway
  disk.  Pack rat that I am, I haven't binned them yet.
 
 No way to affect the coper layer with a diode from a DVD writer, but is
 should be possible to expose the light sensitive coating using a low
 power blue LED. So this could eliminate the traditional exposer
 processes but you would sill have all the rest of the wet process.

Something that since I have extensive experience with, and the destruction 
one can cause trying to dispose of spent ferric chloride, I do NOT want to 
be involved with ever again.
 
 See you
 Flo
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Bertho Stultiens
On 12/06/2013 07:07 PM, Florian Rist wrote:
 So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a 1
 ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to leave a 
 burned, conductive path where the copper was?
 I tried this with two different Lasers sources:
 120 W CW CO2 Laser at 10600 µm wavelength:
 Result: no way to 'burn' the copper. It was hardly possible to burn away
 a the play of photosensitive coating used in the normal 'wet' process.
 200W q-switched Yb:Yag Laser at 1064 µm:
 Result: even the 25 kW max. pulse energy were not sufficient to burn
 away the copper properly. It is possible to cut through the coper layer
 by the precess is not controlled enough. The pulse energy would probably
 have to be at least 10 times higher to establish a decent process. But
 this laser removes the light sensitive coating quite well at low power
 settings.

Copper boils at ~2560 deg C and has a thermal conductivity of ~400W/(mK).

Compare this to aluminium: 2520deg and 237W/(mK) and iron: 2860deg and
80W/(mK).

Getting any copper vaporized, you need a *huge* amount of energy. We are
talking about 100..250kW pulses to make any proper cut and more if it
needs to be nice.

Aluminium also has a great problem because it is very close to copper.
Iron has 5 times less heat transport and even though it has a higher
boiling temperature, it will vaporize more easily than copper and
aluminium due to the reduced heat transport.

-- 
Greetings Bertho

(disclaimers are disclaimed)

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 13:50:36 David Armstrong did opine:

 On 06/12/13 18:10, Florian Rist wrote:
  PS: There was a ns pulsed UV Laser (quadrupled YAG) on ebay recently,
  this would be the right one for the job. I was close to buying it was
  quite cheap.
  
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 Gene ,
 unfortunatly not , copper for one will absorb the heat .
 and for a laser to work it realy needs to vaporise the metal , which is
 one reason you see dvd lasers burning wood or plastics
 rather than a clean cut .
 
 iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it
 although the fr4 will burn quite nicely and be nice and crisp and fill
 your room with unfortunate toxins
 
 Dave

Just one of the reasons to have a 4 hose from my dust collector arranged 
to keep the area clear, and the stink outside, where my home sewn 2' 
diameter, 10' foot long collector bag lives.
 
 
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Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 13:57:04 Florian Rist did opine:

 Hi David
 
  iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it
 
 Yes, 600W is not enough. That's why a q-switched laser with short pulses
 is needed. Pulse peek energy on my laser is 25 kW, that's still not
 enough, the one on the mentioned laser was about 1 MW. This instantly
 turns the coper into plasma. Its not melting not vaporising it, it tuns
 a very thin layer into plasma within less than a ns. This process is
 very controlled an would allow to remove the 35 mµ of coper in multiple
 paths without heating the FR4 and without hardly removing any of it.
 
 cu
 Flo

Humm, thats beginning to sound like non-exportable munitions. Not to 
mention eyeball wreckers just from the reflections off the surrounding 
walls. :( Bad idea for someone not well versed in the tech.


Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Everything is possible.  Pass the word.
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 law-abiding citizens.

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 14:00:58 Bertho Stultiens did opine:

 On 12/06/2013 07:07 PM, Florian Rist wrote:
  So my question is, to someone who may have tried/done this, is can a
  1 ounce layer of copper be burned away rapidly enough so as not to
  leave a burned, conductive path where the copper was?
  
  I tried this with two different Lasers sources:
  120 W CW CO2 Laser at 10600 µm wavelength:
  Result: no way to 'burn' the copper. It was hardly possible to burn
  away a the play of photosensitive coating used in the normal 'wet'
  process. 200W q-switched Yb:Yag Laser at 1064 µm:
  Result: even the 25 kW max. pulse energy were not sufficient to burn
  away the copper properly. It is possible to cut through the coper
  layer by the precess is not controlled enough. The pulse energy would
  probably have to be at least 10 times higher to establish a decent
  process. But this laser removes the light sensitive coating quite
  well at low power settings.
 
 Copper boils at ~2560 deg C and has a thermal conductivity of
 ~400W/(mK).
 
 Compare this to aluminium: 2520deg and 237W/(mK) and iron: 2860deg and
 80W/(mK).
 
 Getting any copper vaporized, you need a *huge* amount of energy. We are
 talking about 100..250kW pulses to make any proper cut and more if it
 needs to be nice.
 
 Aluminium also has a great problem because it is very close to copper.
 Iron has 5 times less heat transport and even though it has a higher
 boiling temperature, it will vaporize more easily than copper and
 aluminium due to the reduced heat transport.

I figure there was that effect in there someplace, but had no idea as to 
the scale.  Interesting  thanks.

Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Florian Rist
Hi Gen

 Humm, thats beginning to sound like non-exportable munitions. Not to 
 mention eyeball wreckers just from the reflections off the surrounding 
 walls. :( Bad idea for someone not well versed in the tech.

Yes proper eye protection is important, but also at just 2 W and a diode
from a DVD burner. The power density that can be reached at the retina
is surprisingly high as soon as you deal with culminated (parallel)
beams. So even 2 W of continuous wave beam can cause permanent damage
especially if the light is in the visible range of the spectrum. The
10600 nm fro a CO2 laser are less dangerous, as they will 'only' burn
the corona and not reach the retina.

cu
Flo

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Bertho Stultiens
On 12/06/2013 07:56 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 PS: There was a ns pulsed UV Laser (quadrupled YAG) on ebay recently,
 this would be the right one for the job. I was close to buying it was
 quite cheap.
 unfortunatly not , copper for one will absorb the heat .
 and for a laser to work it realy needs to vaporise the metal , which is
 one reason you see dvd lasers burning wood or plastics
 rather than a clean cut .
 iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it
 although the fr4 will burn quite nicely and be nice and crisp and fill
 your room with unfortunate toxins
 Just one of the reasons to have a 4 hose from my dust collector arranged 
 to keep the area clear, and the stink outside, where my home sewn 2' 
 diameter, 10' foot long collector bag lives.

Also, you need an inert gas enclosure (argon) to prevent catastrophic
results. Vaporizing metals at these temperatures are extremely reactive
and any oxygen will result in a burning cloud.


 Not to mention eyeball wreckers just from the reflections off the 
 surrounding walls. Bad idea for someone not well versed in the tech.

Yes, the laser should be tuned to an absorption line of metal/material
being cut to prevent too much energy loss due to reflection.


 Humm, thats beginning to sound like non-exportable munitions.

Indeed, it is not a hobby-laser anymore...


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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread David Armstrong
On 06/12/13 18:59, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Friday 06 December 2013 13:57:04 Florian Rist did opine:

 Hi David

 iv'e try'd copper and even with 600w + it's difficult to even mark it
 Yes, 600W is not enough. That's why a q-switched laser with short pulses
 is needed. Pulse peek energy on my laser is 25 kW, that's still not
 enough, the one on the mentioned laser was about 1 MW. This instantly
 turns the coper into plasma. Its not melting not vaporising it, it tuns
 a very thin layer into plasma within less than a ns. This process is
 very controlled an would allow to remove the 35 mµ of coper in multiple
 paths without heating the FR4 and without hardly removing any of it.

 cu
 Flo
 Humm, thats beginning to sound like non-exportable munitions. Not to
 mention eyeball wreckers just from the reflections off the surrounding
 walls. :( Bad idea for someone not well versed in the tech.


 Cheers, Gene
yes and thats just for starters .
but the fireworks in the tubes are good ! ( with suitable glasses of 
course )

it's fun when someone sees a laser for the first time , and sees you 
cutting 1/2 - 3/4 thick steel
but try's to think of the reason why it will not cut aluminium of 1/8 , 
and that it must be faulty !








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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 14:22:22 Florian Rist did opine:

 Yes proper eye protection is important, but also at just 2 W and a diode
 from a DVD burner. The power density that can be reached at the retina
 is surprisingly high as soon as you deal with culminated (parallel)
 beams. So even 2 W of continuous wave beam can cause permanent damage
 especially if the light is in the visible range of the spectrum. The
 10600 nm fro a CO2 laser are less dangerous, as they will 'only' burn
 the corona and not reach the retina.
 
 cu
 Flo

Hence the cataract warnings that seem to surround the long IR CO2 models.  
Unforch I do have some already.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Bertho Stultiens
On 12/06/2013 08:24 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Hence the cataract warnings that seem to surround the long IR CO2 models.  
 Unforch I do have some already.

Cataract inducing lasers are at ~1500nm (often Yag type lasers). The
1.5um is small enough to pass through the cornea and will induce
coagulation in the lens (making it milky-white). Your cornea also will
take damage, but the bulk energy at these wavelengths (1..2um) are
absorbed by the lens.

Longer wavelengths are readily absorbed by water and will cause the
tearfilm to boil off. If any appreciable amount of energy still passes
onto the anterior chamber (between lens and cornea) then the water there
will heat. Too long exposure will cause the lens to coagulate (at about
55..60 degrees C) and therefore also induce a cataract.


When you get into such situation, you'd be swearing and grumbling that
you /should/ have been wearing eye protection. ;-)

Do not mess with your eyes.


(full disclosure: I workes at a hospital's department of ophthalmology
for 10 years).

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 15:04:27 Bertho Stultiens did opine:

 On 12/06/2013 08:24 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Hence the cataract warnings that seem to surround the long IR CO2
  models. Unforch I do have some already.
 
 Cataract inducing lasers are at ~1500nm (often Yag type lasers). The
 1.5um is small enough to pass through the cornea and will induce
 coagulation in the lens (making it milky-white). Your cornea also will
 take damage, but the bulk energy at these wavelengths (1..2um) are
 absorbed by the lens.
 
 Longer wavelengths are readily absorbed by water and will cause the
 tearfilm to boil off. If any appreciable amount of energy still passes
 onto the anterior chamber (between lens and cornea) then the water there
 will heat. Too long exposure will cause the lens to coagulate (at about
 55..60 degrees C) and therefore also induce a cataract.
 
 
 When you get into such situation, you'd be swearing and grumbling that
 you /should/ have been wearing eye protection. ;-)
 
 Do not mess with your eyes.
 
 
 (full disclosure: I workes at a hospital's department of ophthalmology
 for 10 years).

Sounds like someone who has walked that walk,

RANT MODE ON

and a subject that brings up a sore point with me in that 55 years ago I 
could actually find an ND9 panel for my arc shield/helmet, making it usable 
but even then I preferred the smith wrench because of ones ability to 
modify the carbon content of the weld and see both the surroundings and the 
weld puddle thru a set of ND5's.

Today its ND10's only, which are so damned dense you can't see where to 
strike the arc even with bright sunlight on the workpieces. And getting 
these high priced automatics set to work well is a dream I haven't managed 
to do well yet.  Mostly all you can see is the arc itself but dammit all to 
hell, one needs to be able to see the work surface for at least a cm around 
the arc in order to really be able to drive the j-stroke cleanly down the 
joint AND get good penetration.  I can manage to run my mig when I have to, 
but if I could actually see what the hell I was doing, I could do a hell of 
a lot better than I can do when blinded by excess ND.

/RANT MODE.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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this message.
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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Ron Bean
Something that since I have extensive experience with, and the destruction
one can cause trying to dispose of spent ferric chloride, I do NOT want to
be involved with ever again.

The guys here etch PCBs with a mix of muriatic acid and hydrogen 
peroxide, which is much easier to deal with. Google muriatic acid pcb 
etching for more info-- our version is here:
http://milwaukeemakerspace.org/2012/04/pcb-with-lasered-paint-resist-and-fast-sponge-etching/

Note that we're using 30% H2O2 rather than the 2% you typically find at 
a pharmacy (I don't know where they buy it). Supposedly you can 
regenerate the acid mix by bubbling air through it, but we've never 
gotten that to work, so we just mix up a new batch each time.

Instead of photo resist, we use black spray paint, and etch the paint 
away with a laser cutter.

We've tried cutting circuit boards with a CNC engraving machine, with 
varying results. The main problem seems to be keeping the board 
absolutely flat-- it tends to warp, and then you don't get a consistent 
depth of cut. There is a method of height mapping the board ahead of 
time, and using the computer to compensate while engraving. I don't know 
the details, but it does seem to work. I think it's a plug-in for Mach3. 
Very careful mounting might also work.


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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 12/06/2013 12:23 PM, Ron Bean wrote:
... snip
 Instead of photo resist, we use black spray paint, and etch the paint
 away with a laser cutter.

 We've tried cutting circuit boards with a CNC engraving machine, with
 varying results. The main problem seems to be keeping the board
 absolutely flat-- it tends to warp, and then you don't get a consistent
 depth of cut. There is a method of height mapping the board ahead of
 time, and using the computer to compensate while engraving. I don't know
 the details, but it does seem to work. I think it's a plug-in for Mach3.
 Very careful mounting might also work.

I have been thinking of using paint resist but engrave the resist off, 
which might work if the Z variation is within the copper thickness. I 
guess the engraving mill would also need to have vertical sides too - 
maybe not such a good idea. I have tried laser printer/iron-on transfers 
but this isn't very accurate and not good enough for two sided boards.


-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 15:28:32 Ron Bean did opine:

 Something that since I have extensive experience with, and the
 destruction one can cause trying to dispose of spent ferric chloride,
 I do NOT want to be involved with ever again.
 
 The guys here etch PCBs with a mix of muriatic acid and hydrogen
 peroxide, which is much easier to deal with. Google muriatic acid pcb
 etching for more info-- our version is here:
 http://milwaukeemakerspace.org/2012/04/pcb-with-lasered-paint-resist-and
 -fast-sponge-etching/
 
 Note that we're using 30% H2O2 rather than the 2% you typically find at
 a pharmacy (I don't know where they buy it). Supposedly you can
 regenerate the acid mix by bubbling air through it, but we've never
 gotten that to work, so we just mix up a new batch each time.
 
 Instead of photo resist, we use black spray paint, and etch the paint
 away with a laser cutter.
 
 We've tried cutting circuit boards with a CNC engraving machine, with
 varying results. The main problem seems to be keeping the board
 absolutely flat-- it tends to warp, and then you don't get a consistent
 depth of cut. There is a method of height mapping the board ahead of
 time, and using the computer to compensate while engraving. I don't know
 the details, but it does seem to work. I think it's a plug-in for Mach3.
 Very careful mounting might also work.
 
I machine an insulating pallet out of micarta, which doesn't require 
mapping if the pallet is clean, and the top etch is deburred on a sheet of 
600 wet-r-dry, wet with cuting oil before turning it over.  I use flat head 
0-80 screws threaded into the micarta as hold downs so they wedge the 
board in place, so that there is just enough tension to keep it from 
walking around a thou or so if the bit gets really dull.  The use of tape 
allows just enough sideways wiggle that I can see it in the etching of a 
pad.  The insulated pallet allows me to establish the z depth with a G38.2 
directly from the tip of the etching tool and some follow up code to modify 
either G55 for the top, or G56 for the bottom.  I haven't felt the need to 
do a preliminary mapping grid run since I found that 5 seconds on the wet 
wet-r-dry stuck to a granite surface slab, and a decent blow from the air 
hose to clean it up again took care of the z depth problems.

Now with the camera mounted and working with camview-emc, and the align.zip 
also working and making some hold downs out of 1/2 micarta, one with a 
contact for the probe connection in its tip, I might be able to do away 
with the pallet, but haven't made the micarta hold downs yet.  On my todo 
list though. So is installing a few sheets of 2 R11 styro between the 
studs to ease the electric bill for heating that garden barn/shed. I have 4 
sheets of it blocking the garage now. But here in WV, its plumb fugly 
outside, which is where I'd have to cut the styrofoam.  Upper 30's F, and 
pouring it out of some pretty tall boots. Toss in enough wind  me and my 
diabetic feet are gonna 'stay in the barn'  try to keep warm.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread MC Cason

Gene,

   Sounds like you need a better helmet.

   I've used many different types of helmets over the years, and I 
finally settled on a Jackson helmet, with a NexGen module (~$400.00).  I 
use the same helmet for MIG, TIG, and Stick.  It's adjustable from 
shades 9 to 13, and when the batteries die, it defaults to dark.

   At shade 9, I can easily see the weld puddle, and surrounding metal.  
The flip time is fast, and will work down to 5 amps, which makes TIG'ing 
really easy.  Whatever you do, DO NOT get a cheapie auto darkening 
helmet.  The flip times can be too slow, and they can burn your eyes.

   I just ordered a aluminum kit for my for one of my portable welders, 
(Lincoln HD3200), so it's going to get a pretty good workout this weekend.


On 12/06/2013 02:22 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Sounds like someone who has walked that walk,

 RANT MODE ON

 and a subject that brings up a sore point with me in that 55 years ago I
 could actually find an ND9 panel for my arc shield/helmet, making it usable
 but even then I preferred the smith wrench because of ones ability to
 modify the carbon content of the weld and see both the surroundings and the
 weld puddle thru a set of ND5's.

 Today its ND10's only, which are so damned dense you can't see where to
 strike the arc even with bright sunlight on the workpieces. And getting
 these high priced automatics set to work well is a dream I haven't managed
 to do well yet.  Mostly all you can see is the arc itself but dammit all to
 hell, one needs to be able to see the work surface for at least a cm around
 the arc in order to really be able to drive the j-stroke cleanly down the
 joint AND get good penetration.  I can manage to run my mig when I have to,
 but if I could actually see what the hell I was doing, I could do a hell of
 a lot better than I can do when blinded by excess ND.

 /RANT MODE.

 Cheers, Gene


-- 
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Associate Developer - Eagle3D, Created by Matthias Weißer



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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 06 December 2013 21:29:40 MC Cason did opine:

 Gene,
 
Sounds like you need a better helmet.
 
I've used many different types of helmets over the years, and I
 finally settled on a Jackson helmet, with a NexGen module (~$400.00).  I
 use the same helmet for MIG, TIG, and Stick.  It's adjustable from
 shades 9 to 13, and when the batteries die, it defaults to dark.
 
Ok, can I get it to sit low enough I can use my trifocals without fogging 
up because the glass is then sitting on my nose?  That is the 2nd part of 
whether or not I might spend $400.  This one, about 90 bucks, seems to have 
a plumb adequate flip time, claims 15 microseconds.

At shade 9, I can easily see the weld puddle, and surrounding metal.
 The flip time is fast, and will work down to 5 amps, which makes TIG'ing
 really easy.  Whatever you do, DO NOT get a cheapie auto darkening
 helmet.  The flip times can be too slow, and they can burn your eyes.
 
I just ordered a aluminum kit for my for one of my portable welders,
 (Lincoln HD3200), so it's going to get a pretty good workout this
 weekend.

That ought to be fun, what gas does it use?

[...rant]

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] Laser engravng

2013-12-06 Thread MC Cason
On 12/06/2013 08:33 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Friday 06 December 2013 21:29:40 MC Cason did opine:

 Gene,

 Sounds like you need a better helmet.

 I've used many different types of helmets over the years, and I
 finally settled on a Jackson helmet, with a NexGen module (~$400.00).  I
 use the same helmet for MIG, TIG, and Stick.  It's adjustable from
 shades 9 to 13, and when the batteries die, it defaults to dark.

 Ok, can I get it to sit low enough I can use my trifocals without fogging
 up because the glass is then sitting on my nose?  That is the 2nd part of
 whether or not I might spend $400.  This one, about 90 bucks, seems to have
 a plumb adequate flip time, claims 15 microseconds.

   I use a set of readers with my helmet, because a cheater lens was too 
small.  it has a large viewing area, not quite double the height of a 
standard lens, and it claims 40 microseconds.  I had one that claimed 20 
microseconds, and this one beats the pants off of it.

   This is what mine looks like (And it's a bit less than what I paid 
for mine):
http://store.cyberweld.com/janeaudaleww.html


 At shade 9, I can easily see the weld puddle, and surrounding metal.
 The flip time is fast, and will work down to 5 amps, which makes TIG'ing
 really easy.  Whatever you do, DO NOT get a cheapie auto darkening
 helmet.  The flip times can be too slow, and they can burn your eyes.

 I just ordered a aluminum kit for my for one of my portable welders,
 (Lincoln HD3200), so it's going to get a pretty good workout this
 weekend.
 That ought to be fun, what gas does it use?

   Straight argon.  It was easier to get the conversion kit for my 
portable welder, and take it to the boat, than take the boat to the TIG 
welder.


 [...rant]

 Cheers, Gene


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Associate Developer - Eagle3D, Created by Matthias Weißer



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