Re: [EVDL] Charging my Volt from 100' of zip cord

2021-07-25 Thread Haudy Kazemi via EV
To do stuff like this, one must also be sure the wire is fully unreeled so
that it can dissipate heat. Excess heat will ruin your day.

Wire that is still on a reel, or otherwise coiled up or in contact with
another section of warm wire, must be heavily derated. Or more
specifically, the insulation must be able to handle the heat buildup. After
all, the insulation's temperature limits determine the maximum heat that
can be handled (up to the point that the wire itself melts), and the
resistance of the wire will lead to I^2R watts lost as heat. (And you can
divide that by the wire length to get watts per foot.)

Bob, have you ever charged an EV via a SWER connection?


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 12:52 Robert Bruninga via EV 
wrote:

> TIP:  Never be caught without wire!
>
> You can charge a Volt (8 amps default) via 100' of simple #18
> lamp zip cord if you wanted to. (and had the 3rd GND wire).
> The 5v line drop is within the standard for acceptable voltage drop.
>
> I routinely carry hundreds of feet of #18 zip cord for backup
> and emergency power in all  my vehicles because I can carry
> four times as much wire under the seat in the same volume
> as the standard stiff double insulated  orange extension cords.
>
> See my spool:  http://aprs.org/prius/photos/220cord3x.JPG
> Ignore the 220V label, this image was for when I remotely power
> things (universal power supplies) from the 220V prius battery.
>
> When I find such a spool, I pull off the 15' or 20' of stiff plastic orange
> cord and re-wind it with 100' to 120' of #18 lamp zip cord. Note: to get
> 120',you have to be very careful and obsessive in acting like a fishing
> reel and laying in the zip cord flat and adjacent (no twists).  But you
> can do it.  [But for dual wire use only - No GND wire]
>
> I showed up once at a downed tree and was able to plug in TWO
> of these 100' cords of #18 zip cord in series to run a small
> chain saw and save the day.  Yes, there was noticible voltage drop
> but still plenty of power to run the saw.  I have even run an electric
> lawnmower through one when it was more convenient than digging
> out all the old orange and green cords "from around back".
>
> Oh, also I was able to use two of these at a rest stop for a small
> space heater (on low-power (700W) and sleep in the car overnight
> (well, several hours anyway) because the black zip cord just kind-of
> disappeared in the joint to cross the sidewalk and then along the
> edge of the sidewalk around to the back of the building where the
> vending machines were plugged in.
>
> I would never have gotten away with that using 200' of bright
> thick orange extension cords.
>
> Anyway, just some tall tales from the armchair
> (never be caught without wire!)
> Bob, WB4APR
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Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 EOL behavior

2021-07-25 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Some of you know this, and the info is not current, but is good for LiFePO.
Anyhow, just to be complete in the discussion:

When a cell is discharged, the lithium ions are on the anode and the
cathode is depleted of ions. This is a pretty benign state chemically. But
as the cathode loads up Li ions from charging the anode becomes very
reactive. So reactive that it starts to tear up the electrolyte. Heat just
makes it worse. With advancements in additives to help the electrolyte stay
healthy Li cells became steadily more durable.

Older CALB and other brands cells are liable to be deficient after many
years. Buyer beware.
Maya WoulfeiFEPO and circa 2015

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 12:20 AM Michael Ross 
wrote:

> For LiFePO, a parasitic load might be protective. It's that full charge
> that is destructive.
>
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 11:40 PM EVDL Administrator via EV <
> ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>
>> On 24 Jul 2021 at 21:04, Michael Ross via EV wrote:
>>
>> > The worst thing you can do to LiFPO is to charge it fully, and let it
>> sit
>> > around, especially in a hot location.
>>
>> Isn't that the case for lithium batteries of any chemistry?  I'm not a
>> lithium expert by any means; I'm just asking.
>>
>> It occurs to me that some of Chris's parasitic loads could be coming from
>> "inside the house," so to speak.  That is, they might be from the BMS.
>>
>> I have 24v and 36v 10ah LiFePO4 batteries with a BMS with logic that's
>> powered by a 12v tap (not the optimum design), and the 4 cells that power
>> the BMS always take longer than the others to reach full charge.  For
>> long
>> term storage I have read a suggestion to disconnect the BMS if possible -
>> but don't forget to reconnect it when taking the battery out of storage.
>>
>> David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey
>>
>> To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my
>> offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt
>>
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>>  First they came for the journalists.  We don't know what
>>  happened after that.
>>
>>   -- Unknown
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>>
>> ___
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>> No other addresses in TO and CC fields
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>>
>
>
> --
> Michael E. Ross
> (919) 585-6737 Land
> (919) 901-2805 Cell and Text
> (919) 576-0824 <https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones> Tablet,
> Google Phone and Text
>
>
>
>

-- 
Michael E. Ross
(919) 585-6737 Land
(919) 901-2805 Cell and Text
(919) 576-0824 <https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones> Tablet,
Google Phone and Text
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Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 EOL behavior

2021-07-25 Thread Alan Arrison via EV
I have a 9 year old pack of CALB blue 100Ah cells. I am seeing cells 
with very high self discharge. Probably 10's of milliamps. I am 
concerned that these high resistance shorts will become low resistance 
shorts and burn my garage down. (There is no excessive BMS loading)


Al

On 7/24/2021 9:01 AM, Christopher Darilek via EV wrote:

Hi Guys,

I have an 8 year old LiFePO4 pack in my car and wonder if anyone knows what the 
end of life failure mode is for these?

Over the pandemic lock down I was not driving the car for 3 months and noticed 
one day that all the cells were flat, ~2V. I attributed this to some parasitic 
loads over the 3mo, and charged it back up.

Then, with a full charge I drove ~10 miles (about 25% of my 'old' range) and 
parked, and after a couple weeks noticed I was back ~2V per cell.

I put it on charge and it seems to have charged up and is holding voltage now.

Is this how LiFePO4 batteries toss in the towel or do I still have a parasitic 
load to debug? What is the failure mode?

Thanks for any tips.
Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
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Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 EOL behavior

2021-07-25 Thread Christopher Darilek via EV
For the 8 years I've had this pack my practice has been to charge it at a C/15 
rate and stop when the first cell hits 3.45V. Its a 18kWh CALB.

You could watch the cells go from ~3.32V to 3.45V pretty quickly, once they 
left 3.32V they'd be at 3.45V in <2mins and the charge stops.

It's been hot, central Texas. I just got back from a range test and it's at 20 
miles now. When the pack was new I claimed it had a 50 mile range, but I never 
went more than about 40 miles. 

I somewhat eliminated the parasitic load issue (reducing range?) by not letting 
it sit long after charge. But I plan to borrow a meter from work to check it.

I'm going to cycle it a few more times, to see if capacity recovers after the 
lockdown sitting period, I think someone suggested that.

26236 miles total

-Chris

ps. I must confess, my EV grin is wider driving our Chevy Bolt, even if it does 
plan to catch fire someday..


On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 11:21:27 PM CDT, Michael Ross via EV 
 wrote: 





For LiFePO, a parasitic load might be protective. It's that full charge
that is destructive.

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 11:40 PM EVDL Administrator via EV <
ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:

> On 24 Jul 2021 at 21:04, Michael Ross via EV wrote:
>
> > The worst thing you can do to LiFPO is to charge it fully, and let it sit
> > around, especially in a hot location.
>
> Isn't that the case for lithium batteries of any chemistry?  I'm not a
> lithium expert by any means; I'm just asking.
>
> It occurs to me that some of Chris's parasitic loads could be coming from
> "inside the house," so to speak.  That is, they might be from the BMS.
>
> I have 24v and 36v 10ah LiFePO4 batteries with a BMS with logic that's
> powered by a 12v tap (not the optimum design), and the 4 cells that power
> the BMS always take longer than the others to reach full charge.  For long
> term storage I have read a suggestion to disconnect the BMS if possible -
> but don't forget to reconnect it when taking the battery out of storage.
>
> David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey
>
> To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my
> offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>      First they came for the journalists.  We don't know what
>      happened after that.
>
>                                                  -- Unknown
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
> ___
> Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org
> No other addresses in TO and CC fields
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>


-- 
Michael E. Ross
(919) 585-6737 Land
(919) 901-2805 Cell and Text
(919) 576-0824 <https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones> Tablet,
Google Phone and Text
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[EVDL] Charging my Volt from 100' of zip cord

2021-07-25 Thread Robert Bruninga via EV
TIP:  Never be caught without wire!

You can charge a Volt (8 amps default) via 100' of simple #18
lamp zip cord if you wanted to. (and had the 3rd GND wire).
The 5v line drop is within the standard for acceptable voltage drop.

I routinely carry hundreds of feet of #18 zip cord for backup
and emergency power in all  my vehicles because I can carry
four times as much wire under the seat in the same volume
as the standard stiff double insulated  orange extension cords.

See my spool:  http://aprs.org/prius/photos/220cord3x.JPG
Ignore the 220V label, this image was for when I remotely power
things (universal power supplies) from the 220V prius battery.

When I find such a spool, I pull off the 15' or 20' of stiff plastic orange
cord and re-wind it with 100' to 120' of #18 lamp zip cord. Note: to get
120',you have to be very careful and obsessive in acting like a fishing
reel and laying in the zip cord flat and adjacent (no twists).  But you
can do it.  [But for dual wire use only - No GND wire]

I showed up once at a downed tree and was able to plug in TWO
of these 100' cords of #18 zip cord in series to run a small
chain saw and save the day.  Yes, there was noticible voltage drop
but still plenty of power to run the saw.  I have even run an electric
lawnmower through one when it was more convenient than digging
out all the old orange and green cords "from around back".

Oh, also I was able to use two of these at a rest stop for a small
space heater (on low-power (700W) and sleep in the car overnight
(well, several hours anyway) because the black zip cord just kind-of
disappeared in the joint to cross the sidewalk and then along the
edge of the sidewalk around to the back of the building where the
vending machines were plugged in.

I would never have gotten away with that using 200' of bright
thick orange extension cords.

Anyway, just some tall tales from the armchair
(never be caught without wire!)
Bob, WB4APR
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[EVDL] Electric mower - small question

2021-07-25 Thread Seth Rothenberg via EV
Friends,
I have a quick question about figuring out the current capacity of a
Consumer-marketed LiOn battery.

I have been "driving" a small used B&D Lawn Hog mower for a number of years.
A few years ago, I changed the switch in the handle, and now the rectifier
needs to be replaced.

While I am waiting for Amazon, I borrowed my neighbor's mower,
which turns out to be a Ryobi running on 40V Lithium.

Which started me thinking - considering my mower's motor is DC  -
what would it take to replace the cord + rectifier with some number of these
40V packs which are available at 6Ah?

The motor has no plate but a search showed that it is rated for 12amps.
If I use 3 of these batteries, the voltage will be matched, 120V, 6Ah.
it would need those 3 batteries to run at the 2C level,
which may not be sustainable.

and, of course, for the price of 3 batteries,
I could buy a whole new battery mower...

but I really doubt I could run the same motor on 80 Volts, or 40 volts.
(I'm not changing the motor at this time).

So, it sounds like I will continue to be tethered for a while.

Thanks
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