[EVDL] EVLN: ~16k Nissan & Mitsubishi joint low-cost EV by 2016-2017
http://www.auto123.com/en/news/nissan-and-mitsubishi-announce-joint-ev-program?artid=169945&utm_medium=feeds&utm_source=feed-all&utm_campaign=feeds
Nissan and Mitsubishi announce joint EV program
By Josée Paquet August 04, 2014
Nissan and Mitsubishi have partnered to build and sell a small, affordable
electric vehicle by 2016-2017, according to the Japanese newspaper Nikkei.
It would be priced at around 1.78 million yens, or $16,000.
Both Nissan (LEAF) and Mitsubishi (i-MiEV) already have one electric car in
their portfolios. They've also formed an alliance to develop the Dayz and
Dayz Roox microcars in Japan, among other projects.
Nissan told AFP that further details will be announced at a later date, but
insisted that the company is moving as fast as it can to bring this new
electric vehicle to market.
[© independent.co.uk]
...
http://auto.lapresse.ca/auto-ecolo/201408/04/01-4789094-nissan-et-mitsubishi-sallient-pour-lancer-une-voiture-electrique.php
Nissan et Mitsubishi s'allient pour lancer une voiture électrique
Publié le 04 août 2014 à 10h57
[In French translate.google> English]
Nissan and Mitsubishi join forces to launch an electric car ...
Agence France-Presse
TOKYO
The Japanese automakers Nissan and Mitsubishi Motors to jointly develop an
electric mini-car at low cost by 2016-2017, said Monday the Nikkei business
daily.
Nissan, which has invested $ 4 billion in this area in partnership with
Renault, its largest shareholder, the City sells far Leaf for a mixed
commercial result - 124,000 copies sold worldwide since its launch in 2010.
The group ensures that the Leaf is still "the best-selling electric car,"
while conceding that a problem of infrastructure slows the adoption of such
cars, which offer a range of 190 km when the battery is charged maximum.
The price is also a factor that could hinder buyers, hence this project to
develop an affordable vehicle.
Mitsubishi Motors has experience in this field, since it launched in 2009,
the least expensive of the Japanese market electric car: a small model
called i-MiEV priced at 1.78 million yen (about 18,100 $), if one takes into
account the government's help for "clean vehicles".
The group has delivered 10,000 units in Japan and 22,000 overseas, according
to figures provided to the AFP.
According to the Nikkei, the car in preparation could be sold for even less,
around 1.5 million yen (about $ 16,000).
Nissan and Mitsubishi Motors are already working together in several areas.
They launched through a joint venture called NMKV two mini-vehicles (Dayz
and Dayz Roox), these cars of less than 660 cc very popular in Japan.
Renault, they announced the end of 2013 an extension of their cooperation
for a joint production of vehicles and sharing of technologies, particularly
in the field of electric motors.
Contacted by AFP, the two Japanese groups confirmed "consider the
development of an electric model" based on Dayz range. "But nothing has been
decided at this stage," said a spokesman for Mitsubishi Motors.
"While our goal is to launch this model as soon as possible, the details of
its development and launch schedule will be announced later," he assured his
side Nissan.
[© auto.lapresse.ca]
...
[images
https://www.google.com/search?q=Dayz+Roox&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=_1DgU-DjDcSyyASb-IKYAg&ved=0CB4QsAQ
Dayz Roox ice
]
For all EVLN posts use:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_page&node=413529&query=evln&sort=date
http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/uk-scientists-develop-sprayon-solar-energy-cells-9643537.html
An EV could generate energy from its coat of perovskite solar paint
http://cleantechnica.com/2014/08/01/ev-fleets-are-good-for-electric-utilities/
EVs Are Win-Win-Win-Win For Utilities*
...
http://gas2.org/2014/08/02/evs-big-win-utility-companies/
*Anti-solar-lobbist-EEI's report is not about individually owned EVs
http://green.autoblog.com/2014/08/05/why-battery-electric-vehicles-will-beat-fuel-cells/
Fueled automobiles in 2014 are a lot like the typewriters of 1984
http://www.nasdaq.com/article/fuel-cell-vehicles-might-not-be-as-clean-as-you-think-cm378511
fcvs Not As Great As You Have Been Told To Believe
http://www.autoevolution.com/news/fiat-introducing-solar-charging-station-for-evs-in-san-diego-84658.html
San Diego, CA Fiat 500e dealer installs EV_ARC 16kWh Solar EVSE
+
EVLN: Father Homes' 1987 RX-7 EV conversion flames Bruno, NE church
{brucedp.150m.com}
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-16k-Nissan-Mitsubishi-joint-low-cost-EV-by-2016-2017-tp4670908.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] EVLN: Father Homes' 1987 RX-7 EV conversion flames Bruno, NE church
http://columbustelegram.com/news/local/fire-damages-bruno-church-rectory/article_7073153a-b6de-5251-8d9f-b67db9569d2d.html
Fire damages Bruno church rectory
[2014/08/06] • By Larry Peirce
[image / Larry Peirce/Lee Enterprises
http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/columbustelegram.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/8f/18f97e84-6696-5949-9369-1c6c00da983e/53e2aa538a24e.preview-620.jpg
Bruno Church Fire
]
Firefighters ventilate the roof at the St. Anthony de Padua Catholic Church
rectory in Bruno after a fire started in the garage Wednesday afternoon.
BRUNO — A fire that started in an electric car spread to the rectory of the
St. Anthony de Padua Catholic Church in Bruno on Wednesday afternoon.
No one was injured in the fire, which was reported just before 2 p.m. and
caused extensive damage to the rectory’s garage.
Fr. Ron Homes, the pastor at St. Anthony for 11 years, was not home when the
fire started.
“It started in the car,” Homes said as he watched firefighters search for
hot spots in the attic space of the rectory. He said he was hoping the
damage to the living quarters wasn’t too serious.
“This is where I want to stay,” he said.
Firefighters from David City and Abie joined the Bruno Volunteer Fire
Department as they worked to stop the fire from spreading. Holes were cut
into the rectory roof to vent smoke out of the structure.
A firefighter found Homes’ cat, OB-1, behind a couch in the house. The cat
eluded his rescuer but found refuge in the basement.
Homes said the fire apparently started in his 1987 Mazda RX-7, a car he
converted to run on batteries stored in the back of the car. The batteries
were connected to a charger, and the car was parked next to the garage door.
The fire spread from the car to the garage and a southeast wind carried it
toward the rest of the brick structure.
Homes said he started working on the electric car about five years ago. It
was a favorite in Bruno’s Q125 celebration parade a year ago. Firefighters
were able to pull the electric car away from the garage and save Homes’
restored 1970s Plymouth Barracuda, which appeared mostly undamaged by the
fire.
St. Anthony, which sits at the top of the hill above the village, is a hub
for the Bruno community. The church was built in 1974 to replace an older
wooden structure. The rectory was built in 1949 and the garage was added
later.
Homes, the pastor at St. Anthony and Sts. Peter and Paul Catholic Church in
Abie, said each of the churches has nearly 70 parishioners.
The local church community will now have to add the rectory to its list of
building repairs. St. Anthony is renovating its fellowship hall and Sts.
Peter and Paul members are attending St. Anthony while the Abie church is
under renovation.
[© 2014 Columbus Telegram]
...
http://journalstar.com/news/local/911/fire-damages-rectory-in-bruno/article_f88e9c26-0632-5754-b411-ce100c7c661a.html
Fire damages rectory in Bruno
...
http://columbustelegram.com/banner-press/news/fire-damages-bruno-church-rectory/article_2ca877b0-8e5e-52c6-b066-ac04c9a775c2.html
Fire damages Bruno church rectory
For all EVLN posts use:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_page&node=413529&query=evln&sort=date
http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/uk-scientists-develop-sprayon-solar-energy-cells-9643537.html
An EV could generate energy from its coat of perovskite solar paint
http://cleantechnica.com/2014/08/01/ev-fleets-are-good-for-electric-utilities/
EVs Are Win-Win-Win-Win For Utilities*
...
http://gas2.org/2014/08/02/evs-big-win-utility-companies/
*Anti-solar-lobbist-EEI's report is not about individually owned EVs
http://green.autoblog.com/2014/08/05/why-battery-electric-vehicles-will-beat-fuel-cells/
Fueled automobiles in 2014 are a lot like the typewriters of 1984
http://www.nasdaq.com/article/fuel-cell-vehicles-might-not-be-as-clean-as-you-think-cm378511
fcvs Not As Great As You Have Been Told To Believe
http://www.autoevolution.com/news/fiat-introducing-solar-charging-station-for-evs-in-san-diego-84658.html
San Diego, CA Fiat 500e dealer installs EV_ARC 16kWh Solar EVSE
+
EVLN: ~16k Nissan & Mitsubishi joint low-cost EV by 2016-2017
{brucedp.150m.com}
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-Father-Homes-1987-RX-7-EV-conversion-flames-Bruno-NE-church-tp4670909.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Tesla Vs UK's Ecotricity Dispute - MoreBackgroundInformation...
Hi Cor, Just wondering if you considered changing your charger instead. Have you seen those? http://www.elconchargers.com/catalog/item/7344653/7638123.htm Denis Le 2014-08-09 à 20:11, Cor van de Water via EV a écrit : > One of the reasons that I am very excited about the new crypto payment > methods - the idea of a ledger "block-chain" protected by cryptography > and distributed (copied) among thousands of locations is secure but it > does not support the virtual monopoly that banks have created for > themselves. > Everyone can use it, independent from location, background, ... to store > and send money almost instantly to any locatoin where there is internet. > > But let's get back to EV technology - I plan to increase the max > charging rate on my truck, so it can charge faster from 240V. I have > already made a J1772 compatible cable that will trick the EVSE to > deliver power and it even tells the EVSE to stop charging as soon as you > press the button on the handle. But my current charger cannot do more > than about 2kW so charging time is almost as slow on 240V as on 110. On > top of that, many J1772 EVSE are connected to 208V and at that voltage, > my charger is actually slower than when plugging into a 120V outlet. > So, I will add some power supplies modified with current limit, to act > as chargers in addition to the existing charger and these will only run > when plugging into 240V. I will keep my NEMA 5-15 plug on my vehicle, so > that I can litterally charge anywhere, greatly extending the range and > utility of my truck. > > Regards, > > Cor van de Water > Chief Scientist > Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com > Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info > Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 > > > -Original Message- > From: Ben Goren [mailto:b...@trumpetpower.com] > Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 3:57 PM > To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla Vs UK's Ecotricity Dispute - > MoreBackgroundInformation... > > On Aug 9, 2014, at 12:28 PM, Cor van de Water via EV > wrote: > >> Have you ever been customer of a US bank? >> I was totally shocked when I came to the USA, fed my new ATM card into >> the nearest machine and was asked to pay several dollars "convenience >> fee" just to pull my money out of the machine, simply because it was > not >> the same bank as where I had my account. > > In my book, such fees are usury, and can easily add up to > credit-card-level charges for poor people just for the privilege of > using the bank to keep their money "safe." It's a terrible social > injustice, and I have no idea how it's managed to persist. > > If the same sort of thing happens with EV charging stations, what today > holds great potential for financial independence could instead turn into > yet another barrier holding the disadvantaged in place. > > If anybody reading these words is in a position to slow down or stop > these kinds of practices, *now* is the time to do something about it, > before it's too late > > b& > ___ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Electric F-250 new pack tests
The rule gets you in the ballpark. Rolling resistance and drag forces are generally about equal at 35-40 mph for more blocky vehicles and around 45-50 mph for more aerodynamic ones, both depending on vehicle weight. The rule can then be made to work by using a sliding scale in speed since it ignores drag force - pick the speed at which it fits for a given vehicle. It fits my car at around 60 - 65 mph. It’s high by about 25% for my car at 45 mph, which is the speed at which the two forces are about equal. -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Electric-F-250-new-pack-tests-tp4670889p4670911.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Electric F-250 new pack tests
John, what what was the truck's energy/mile with the sla batteries? Would be nice to know how the two compare. -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Electric-F-250-new-pack-tests-tp4670889p4670912.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Electric F-250 new pack tests
Hard to tell, as I had different (and not as good) gauges then. >From what I remember, it was nearly the same, even though the truck was about >2000lbs heavier. (48 Golf Cart batteries weigh a LOT) On Sun Aug 10 08:14:43 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said: >John, what what was the truck's energy/mile with the sla batteries? Would be >nice to know how the two compare. -- Bobcats and Cougars, oh my! http://john.casadelgato.com/Pets ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Electric F-250 new pack tests
On Aug 9, 2014, at 6:09 PM, David Nelson via EV wrote: > Maybe so but it is in the ballpark and fits a significant number of > conversions with Li batteries. ...and ballpark estimations are invaluable in the early planning phases. Are you going to need $6000 and 300 pounds and 2 cubic feet of batteries, or $60,000 and 3000 pounds and 20 cubic feet of batteries? Sure will be nice when a couple cubic feet of batteries holds 400 - 500 kWh and weighs about an hundred pounds and costs under $20,000 b& -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: signature.asc Type: application/pgp-signature Size: 801 bytes Desc: Message signed with OpenPGP using GPGMail URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/af8b018c/attachment.pgp> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] Last EV Robert Lange built.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4563597134.html Found this on Craigslist. Lawrence Rhodes -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/25db2da3/attachment.htm> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] EV4Sale $575 e-Trike needs tlc : Last EV Robert Lange built
The price dropped from $800
http://www.jlaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=276188035
Electric vehicle, 3 wheeled, built by Robert Lange, who is in Pop Mech (lake
county) $800
With all due respect for Bob's EV work, IMO the item forsale was not his
best work. Bob had created several EVs. See the links on
http://www.evalbum.com/148
That Amp-Hog e-motorcycle-chopper didn't have a great range, just enough to
hot-dog downtown and back in style.
One the first times I met Bob and one of his EVs was at the Silicon Valley
EAA Chapter Rally eaasv.org which at the time was being held at Stanford
University
http://brucedp97.150m.com/sveaar97/
http://brucedp97.150m.com/sveaar97/sveaar97-46.jpg
(also see on the above site: Otmar's former e-couch/love-seat, now defunct
http://brucedp97.150m.com/sveaar97/sveaar97-45.jpg
)
StanfordU was a great prestigious location, however later due to no fault of
their own, eaasv was not allowed to return, after a sales wannabe showed up
parked at the curb with the back of his truck opened, trying to sell
unrelated junk.
Currently eaasv.org 's next EVent is being held at De Anza College in
Cupertino, CA Sept. 20 10a-4p
http://eaasv.org/rally/
Bob had brought his leaner EV to that 1997 EVent
http://www.evalbum.com/419
...
http://jalopnik.com/tag/robert-lange
Robert Lange Homemade Tilting Electric Car Built For $500
by Wes Siler 8/24/09
[image
http://jalopnik.com/5344177/homemade-tilting-electric-car-built-for-500
]
The homemade Balanced-Over-Batteries car works like a skateboard tilting its
chassis when it steers. The electric car's batteries are slung underneath
the cockpit as counterweights and the whole thing leans 45 degrees. Oh, and
it was built for only $500.
...
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/engineering/gonzo/4272846
Hyper-Agile Car /// Robert Lange /// Kelseyville, Cali.
BEST BALANCING ACT
What It Is: A 72-volt electric vehicle that can glide through one-handed
U-turns without power steering
Time: Three years
Cost: $500
[image
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/diy_rally_08_electric_car2_470-35358750.jpg
]
With its bouncing, pivoting carriage and gleaming aluminum body, Robert
Lange's electric car made him a shoo-in for his second DIY Rally. The
concept is all about balance: Lange positioned the batteries below the
chassis's center of gravity so, like a sailboat skeg, they prevent the car
from tipping over. Just like his electric dragster, a 2007 winner, the car
is assembled from recycled parts: The front and rear differentials came from
1975-76 Pintos, the brakes are from a Yamaha motorcycle, and the steering
gear is a helicopter-tail-rotor gearbox. The steering wheel controls how
much the car leans, and that determines the turning radius. In a fast turn,
the body leans in at about a 45-degree angle. "I can go down the road at 25
mph and do a quick U-y without losing speed," says Lange, 59, a retired auto
mechanic from Kelseyville, Calif. "It's like flying a plane on the street."
Download Robert's preliminary sketches for this DIY project (PDF, 4MB).[
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/pdf/hyper-agile-electric-car.pdf
]
The above pdf shows less about how to build the EV, and more about Bob's
creative mind (Hearsay - from what I was told, Bob like many of his N. CA
neighbors, were not ignorant of recreational deleterious substances).
Here a couple other EVs of Bob's to gander at:
http://www.evalbum.com/2586
Bob's EVs were featured in Popular Mechanics:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/engineering/gonzo/4219198
The Electric-Powered Dragster: DIY Rally, Part 5
Our readers can—and do—build it all, and Robert Lange's battery-powered,
emissions-free cruiser is just the start of it. We've been saluting one of
the top reader projects of the year each week at PopularMechanics.com ...
By Melissa Wagenberg Lasher July 11, 2007
The Solar Driver
Reader: Robert Lange
Materials: $1500
Time: One year
Result: Emissions-free speed ...
Here's proof that green design can be kick-butt cool. Retired mechanic
Robert Lange of Kelseyville, Calif., transformed the fuel tank from an F-4
jet into this three-wheeled dragster. Four motorcycle batteries power the
225-pound vehicle that, says Lange, "handles like a go-kart and moves like a
rocket ship." Lange started building electric vehicles in the late 1960s --
a racing bar stool was an early effort -- and began powering them using
solar panels in 1983. Now, his entire shop runs on solar power. "I don't
like to pollute the atmosphere with my hobby," he says.
Creative EV builders like Bob are a joy when they bring their EVs out to
EVents. Bob will be missed and remembered.
{brucedp.150m.com}
[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Last-EV-Robert-Lange-built-tp4670915.html
]
On Sun, Aug 10, 2014, at 10:28 AM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4563597134.html Found this on
> Craigslist.
-
--
View this message in
[EVDL] Conversion advice
A few years ago I decided to convert my '98 VW Cabrio to electric. At the time, a Warp 9 motor and Zilla 1K controller seemed to make a lot of sense, and are probably one of the best combinations today for a DC conversion. Since I've now put 90k miles on the car as an ICE (after buying it cheaply because the previous owner thought it needed an engine) and a few years have gone by, I'm wondering if a DC conversion still makes sense. I know Curtis makes an AC kit that's designed for similar applications as the 9 inch DC motors. Any opinions on it, or other AC options? Any idea of the resale value of an unused Zilla 1K LV and Warp 9 motor? At least lithium batteries are a lot cheaper than when I first thought about doing this! Bill -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/3fc03cf7/attachment.htm> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Conversion advice
Going the DC route doesn't make sense anymore with a AC motor and controller for $2500.00. Add to it with a 18kw li-ion battery pack for $4000, and you have a major beginning of a conversion. The old fork lift and golf cart die hard's have bit the dust after promoting their state of the art and cost saving ideas. And all of those that downplayed the J1772 upgrade, have now sent their projects to the junk yards, but they saved a buck. It is like everything else, if you cant do it right, don't do it. -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Conversion-advice-tp4670917p4670918.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] AC or DC? : EV Conversion advice
I am hoping others who have experience with AC EV designs will weigh in here.
DC is all that was available back when I had my conversion made.
I know I would want the advantages of Today's AC drive systems.
The evalbum.com listings have so many uses, one of which is they are
searchable either via a search engine or from that website. I found several
listings that used an AC system:
http://www.evalbum.com/2440
2001 Volkswagen Passat
http://www.evalbum.com/2315
1998 Volkswagen Golf
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/1396
1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/2441
1999 Dodge Neon ACR
http://www.evalbum.com/3411
1969 MG MGB
http://www.evalbum.com/3660
1955 Porsche Spyder 550 Electric
http://www.evalbum.com/3576
1974 Porsche 914
http://www.evalbum.com/1541
2003 BMW 325i
http://www.evalbum.com/1253
2001 GMC Sonoma
http://www.evalbum.com/4759
2004 Scion xB
http://www.evalbum.com/1149
1982 Suzuki Sierra SJ40
http://www.evalbum.com/3060
2001 Suzuki Swift
There are more listings to look at using (this is all one long URL)
http://www.google.com/custom?site=evalbum.com%2F&q=%22ac+motor%22&sitesearch=evalbum.com%2F&client=pub-0604986736580708&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&safe=active&flav=&sig=Py9zWxKP0AnU10ms&cof=GALT%3A%230066CC%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%2399%3BVLC%3A336633%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFF%3BLBGC%3AFF%3BALC%3A0066CC%3BLC%3A0066CC%3BT%3A00%3BGFNT%3A66%3BGIMP%3A66%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A330%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2Fui%2Fevalbum.jpg%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2F%3BFORID%3A1%3B
You can look at these to know what system voltage, pack, motor and
controller they used for what range, and performance.
Several EV component AC sources come up when searching using
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+vehicle+ac+motor+controller
or
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+car+ac+motor+controller
As far as what you can get for your DC EV components ... A lot of patients
when trying to sell them to get only some of your money back. That's is
another reason (things change over time) for not buying your EV components
until you actually ready to begin your conversion
{brucedp.150m.com}
On Sun, Aug 10, 2014, at 03:58 PM, ph...@bill-collins.net via EV wrote:
> A few years ago I decided to convert my '98 VW Cabrio to electric. At
> the time,
> a Warp 9 motor and Zilla 1K controller seemed to make a lot of sense, and
> are
> probably one of the best combinations today for a DC conversion.
> Since I've now put 90k miles on the car as an ICE (after buying it
> cheaply
> because the previous owner thought it needed an engine) and a few years
> have
> gone by, I'm wondering if a DC conversion still makes sense.
>
> I know Curtis makes an AC kit that's designed for similar applications as
> the 9
> inch DC motors. Any opinions on it, or other AC options?
> Any idea of the resale value of an unused Zilla 1K LV and Warp 9 motor?
>
> At least lithium batteries are a lot cheaper than when I first thought
> about doing this!
-
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Conversion-advice-tp4670917p4670919.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] AC or DC? : EV Conversion advice
Please add mine to this list. I am very pleased to have decided to use an AC
system. www.evalbum.com/2430 Al Swackhammer
- Original Message -
From: "ev"
To: "ev"
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2014 5:47:31 PM
Subject: [EVDL] AC or DC? : EV Conversion advice
I am hoping others who have experience with AC EV designs will weigh in here.
DC is all that was available back when I had my conversion made.
I know I would want the advantages of Today's AC drive systems.
The evalbum.com listings have so many uses, one of which is they are
searchable either via a search engine or from that website. I found several
listings that used an AC system:
http://www.evalbum.com/2440
2001 Volkswagen Passat
http://www.evalbum.com/2315
1998 Volkswagen Golf
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/1396
1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/2441
1999 Dodge Neon ACR
http://www.evalbum.com/3411
1969 MG MGB
http://www.evalbum.com/3660
1955 Porsche Spyder 550 Electric
http://www.evalbum.com/3576
1974 Porsche 914
http://www.evalbum.com/1541
2003 BMW 325i
http://www.evalbum.com/1253
2001 GMC Sonoma
http://www.evalbum.com/4759
2004 Scion xB
http://www.evalbum.com/1149
1982 Suzuki Sierra SJ40
http://www.evalbum.com/3060
2001 Suzuki Swift
There are more listings to look at using (this is all one long URL)
http://www.google.com/custom?site=evalbum.com%2F&q=%22ac+motor%22&sitesearch=evalbum.com%2F&client=pub-0604986736580708&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&safe=active&flav=&sig=Py9zWxKP0AnU10ms&cof=GALT%3A%230066CC%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%2399%3BVLC%3A336633%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFF%3BLBGC%3AFF%3BALC%3A0066CC%3BLC%3A0066CC%3BT%3A00%3BGFNT%3A66%3BGIMP%3A66%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A330%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2Fui%2Fevalbum.jpg%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2F%3BFORID%3A1%3B
You can look at these to know what system voltage, pack, motor and
controller they used for what range, and performance.
Several EV component AC sources come up when searching using
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+vehicle+ac+motor+controller
or
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+car+ac+motor+controller
As far as what you can get for your DC EV components ... A lot of patients
when trying to sell them to get only some of your money back. That's is
another reason (things change over time) for not buying your EV components
until you actually ready to begin your conversion
{brucedp.150m.com}
On Sun, Aug 10, 2014, at 03:58 PM, ph...@bill-collins.net via EV wrote:
> A few years ago I decided to convert my '98 VW Cabrio to electric. At
> the time,
> a Warp 9 motor and Zilla 1K controller seemed to make a lot of sense, and
> are
> probably one of the best combinations today for a DC conversion.
> Since I've now put 90k miles on the car as an ICE (after buying it
> cheaply
> because the previous owner thought it needed an engine) and a few years
> have
> gone by, I'm wondering if a DC conversion still makes sense.
>
> I know Curtis makes an AC kit that's designed for similar applications as
> the 9
> inch DC motors. Any opinions on it, or other AC options?
> Any idea of the resale value of an unused Zilla 1K LV and Warp 9 motor?
>
> At least lithium batteries are a lot cheaper than when I first thought
> about doing this!
-
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Conversion-advice-tp4670917p4670919.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] AC or DC? : EV Conversion advice
I started with the AC24, and now have an 80kw BLDC motor and
controller. Lots of pep, handles San Diego freeway traffic with no
problem. Now I need to upgrade my batteries to provide the current that
the controller likes. :)
http://www.evalbum.com/2784
Cheers, Peter
On 8/10/14, 6:38 PM, via EV wrote:
Please add mine to this list. I am very pleased to have decided to use an AC
system. www.evalbum.com/2430 Al Swackhammer
- Original Message -
From: "ev"
To: "ev"
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2014 5:47:31 PM
Subject: [EVDL] AC or DC? : EV Conversion advice
I am hoping others who have experience with AC EV designs will weigh in here.
DC is all that was available back when I had my conversion made.
I know I would want the advantages of Today's AC drive systems.
The evalbum.com listings have so many uses, one of which is they are
searchable either via a search engine or from that website. I found several
listings that used an AC system:
http://www.evalbum.com/2440
2001 Volkswagen Passat
http://www.evalbum.com/2315
1998 Volkswagen Golf
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/1396
1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
http://www.evalbum.com/2507
1990 Mazda MX-5 AC
http://www.evalbum.com/2441
1999 Dodge Neon ACR
http://www.evalbum.com/3411
1969 MG MGB
http://www.evalbum.com/3660
1955 Porsche Spyder 550 Electric
http://www.evalbum.com/3576
1974 Porsche 914
http://www.evalbum.com/1541
2003 BMW 325i
http://www.evalbum.com/1253
2001 GMC Sonoma
http://www.evalbum.com/4759
2004 Scion xB
http://www.evalbum.com/1149
1982 Suzuki Sierra SJ40
http://www.evalbum.com/3060
2001 Suzuki Swift
There are more listings to look at using (this is all one long URL)
http://www.google.com/custom?site=evalbum.com%2F&q=%22ac+motor%22&sitesearch=evalbum.com%2F&client=pub-0604986736580708&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&safe=active&flav=&sig=Py9zWxKP0AnU10ms&cof=GALT%3A%230066CC%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%2399%3BVLC%3A336633%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFF%3BLBGC%3AFF%3BALC%3A0066CC%3BLC%3A0066CC%3BT%3A00%3BGFNT%3A66%3BGIMP%3A66%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A330%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2Fui%2Fevalbum.jpg%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fevalbum.com%2F%3BFORID%3A1%3B
You can look at these to know what system voltage, pack, motor and
controller they used for what range, and performance.
Several EV component AC sources come up when searching using
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+vehicle+ac+motor+controller
or
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electric+car+ac+motor+controller
As far as what you can get for your DC EV components ... A lot of patients
when trying to sell them to get only some of your money back. That's is
another reason (things change over time) for not buying your EV components
until you actually ready to begin your conversion
{brucedp.150m.com}
On Sun, Aug 10, 2014, at 03:58 PM, ph...@bill-collins.net via EV wrote:
A few years ago I decided to convert my '98 VW Cabrio to electric. At
the time,
a Warp 9 motor and Zilla 1K controller seemed to make a lot of sense, and
are
probably one of the best combinations today for a DC conversion.
Since I've now put 90k miles on the car as an ICE (after buying it
cheaply
because the previous owner thought it needed an engine) and a few years
have
gone by, I'm wondering if a DC conversion still makes sense.
I know Curtis makes an AC kit that's designed for similar applications as
the 9
inch DC motors. Any opinions on it, or other AC options?
Any idea of the resale value of an unused Zilla 1K LV and Warp 9 motor?
At least lithium batteries are a lot cheaper than when I first thought
about doing this!
-
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
OK, confession time and I need the wisdom from the list how to handle this mess I created. Last night I was in a hurry and wanted to quickly water my pack since that was needed. So, I grabbed the first of the 3 gallons that I keep for watering, filled the auto-shutoff jug and started going through my pack. Two things happened, the first made a mess and the second is more serious: Because some battery boxes are between the frame rails, there are cross-members that are above the filling caps of some batteries, making access difficult so they can only be filled with the jug at an angle. Apparently having the jug at an angle can defeat the auto-shutoff because the jug kept on burping slowly (I thought that this was because it was at an angle and not running as fast as with the other better accessible cells) until I suddenly heard an agitated hissing from the baking soda on the top of the battery, being eaten by the overflowing acid from that cell. Oops. I have put extra baking sode around that fill hole after closing it carefully and I have since bought a plastic syringe with which I will remove some fluid from that cell and store it in a plastic bottle until enough water has evaporated from that cell to put the acid back in without overflowing. Anyone have a rule of thumb how much I should remove? until it is at the same level as the other cells filled with the auto-shutoff jug? The second issue is more disastrous and I can't still understand how I got so confused: after I used the 3 gallons to fill all batteries under the bed (the remaining 6 under the hood had to wait till I bought more water) I put the jug back at the shelf where I keep it and found the 3 gallons that I had purchased a couple months ago and stored there, near the auto-shutoff jug. They had been behind some wood for a project, so I had missed them earlier and I realized that I had used *plain tap water* to fill my batteries, because that is what I had used the old gallon jugs for - to store an emergency stash of drinking water... Quick calculation revealed that each cell received about 250ml of tap water, because I could fill almost 3 golf cart batteries with each filling of the 2 liter jug. Of course that is just a few percent of the volume of the cell, but I am wondering if the unwanted minerals in the electrolyte will cause premature damage to the cells (they are now 2 years old, 9,000 miles and I was hoping to go at least 1 or 2 more years with them, getting 15 or 20k miles out...) Do I need to have them emptied and refilled with clean acid or would the dissolved minerals not matter much in the grande scheme of things? I need to weigh my options and decide which route to go next & how much cost and benefit each would have. Your wisdom is appreciated! Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com <http://www.proxim.com> Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info <http://www.cvandewater.infom> Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/5835e118/attachment.htm> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] Elcon, was: Tesla Vs UK's Ecotricity Dispute
Hi Denis, Yep I knew about Elcon - did not know they are semi-local. But I already have a solution for my charging, so rather not spend on more new equipment unless necessary. I will keep it handy for other conversion projects, thanks for the link. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: Denis Boutet [mailto:bout...@yahoo.ca] Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2014 7:01 AM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla Vs UK's Ecotricity Dispute - MoreBackgroundInformation... Hi Cor, Just wondering if you considered changing your charger instead. Have you seen those? http://www.elconchargers.com/catalog/item/7344653/7638123.htm Denis Le 2014-08-09 à 20:11, Cor van de Water via EV a écrit : > One of the reasons that I am very excited about the new crypto payment > methods - the idea of a ledger "block-chain" protected by cryptography > and distributed (copied) among thousands of locations is secure but it > does not support the virtual monopoly that banks have created for > themselves. > Everyone can use it, independent from location, background, ... to store > and send money almost instantly to any locatoin where there is internet. > > But let's get back to EV technology - I plan to increase the max > charging rate on my truck, so it can charge faster from 240V. I have > already made a J1772 compatible cable that will trick the EVSE to > deliver power and it even tells the EVSE to stop charging as soon as you > press the button on the handle. But my current charger cannot do more > than about 2kW so charging time is almost as slow on 240V as on 110. On > top of that, many J1772 EVSE are connected to 208V and at that voltage, > my charger is actually slower than when plugging into a 120V outlet. > So, I will add some power supplies modified with current limit, to act > as chargers in addition to the existing charger and these will only run > when plugging into 240V. I will keep my NEMA 5-15 plug on my vehicle, so > that I can litterally charge anywhere, greatly extending the range and > utility of my truck. > > Regards, > > Cor van de Water > Chief Scientist > Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com > Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info > Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 > > > -Original Message- > From: Ben Goren [mailto:b...@trumpetpower.com] > Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 3:57 PM > To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla Vs UK's Ecotricity Dispute - > MoreBackgroundInformation... > > On Aug 9, 2014, at 12:28 PM, Cor van de Water via EV > wrote: > >> Have you ever been customer of a US bank? >> I was totally shocked when I came to the USA, fed my new ATM card into >> the nearest machine and was asked to pay several dollars "convenience >> fee" just to pull my money out of the machine, simply because it was > not >> the same bank as where I had my account. > > In my book, such fees are usury, and can easily add up to > credit-card-level charges for poor people just for the privilege of > using the bank to keep their money "safe." It's a terrible social > injustice, and I have no idea how it's managed to persist. > > If the same sort of thing happens with EV charging stations, what today > holds great potential for financial independence could instead turn into > yet another barrier holding the disadvantaged in place. > > If anybody reading these words is in a position to slow down or stop > these kinds of practices, *now* is the time to do something about it, > before it's too late > > b& > ___ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Conversion advice
On 10 Aug 2014 at 17:13, Cruisin via EV wrote: > The old fork lift and golf cart die hard's have bit the dust after > promoting their state of the art and cost saving ideas. And all of > those that downplayed the J1772 upgrade, have now sent their projects > to the junk yards, but they saved a buck. It is like everything else, > if you cant do it right, don't do it. It's ironic that this message crossed the list just a few hours after Bruce's thoughtful celebration of EV hobbyist Robert Lange's creative recycling. The EVDL is here for all kinds of EV lovers. We're here for folks who build gorgeous high-end, high-dollar beauties, and those who scrounge parts from forklifts and golfcars and junkyards. BTW, these latter have NOT "bit the dust," nor are they likely to any time soon. We're here for people who would almost rather work on their EVs than drive them, and for those who just want to unplug and go. There's something to be proud of in EVERY EV. Don't let anybody take that away from you. "If you can't do it right, don't do it" is NOT the motto of the EVDL, or of the majority of our subscribers. Actually, we don't HAVE a motto. But maybe we should, maybe something like "Just do it." David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
On 10 Aug 2014 at 19:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: > I suddenly heard an agitated hissing from the baking soda on the top > of the battery, being eaten by the overflowing acid from that cell ... > I have put extra baking sode around that fill hole after closing it > carefully and I have since bought a plastic syringe with which I will > remove some fluid from that cell and store it in a plastic bottle > until enough water has evaporated from that cell to put the acid back > in without overflowing. > > The second issue is more disastrous ... I had used *plain tap water* > to fill my batteries ... I'm not a battery expert, but this is my take on the situation. I'm more concerned about the first accident, and the possibility that some of the baking soda dissolved in dilute electrolyte may have flowed back into the cell. This might partly neutralize the remaining electrolyte, in addition to it already being more dilute. I think I would be inclined to completely drain the electrolyte from that battery, or at least that cell, and replace it immediately with fresh 1280 SG electrolyte from a good battery shop. As for other overfilled cells, depending on how dilute the electrolyte is, they may have become somewhat acid starved. Thus the electrolyte will go flat before the grids do. This will set your (now possibly lower) maximum amp hour capacity. A hydrometer will tell you how much they differ from the rest of the pack. Assuming you see a significant SG disparity, I'd suggest monitoring those batteries as you drive. That way, you can stop when they reach 80%DOD, no matter what the other batteries are doing. That will reduce the risk of reversing them. Or, you could drain the electrolyte from them too, and replace it with fresh 1280 SG electrolyte. As for your accidental use of tap water, it's very high in minerals, I personally don't think that one watering with it is going to be all that harmful to the battery. I don't recommend it as a practice, however. Especially since I'm not a chemist or engineer, other views are most welcome. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Conversion advice
On Sun Aug 10 17:13:02 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said: >Going the DC route doesn't make sense anymore with a AC motor and controller >for $2500.00. Add to it with a 18kw li-ion battery pack for $4000, and you >have a major beginning of a conversion. The old fork lift and golf cart die >hard's have bit the dust after promoting their state of the art and cost >saving ideas. And all of those that downplayed the J1772 upgrade, have now >sent their projects to the junk yards, but they saved a buck. It is like >everything else, if you cant do it right, don't do it. So, there is a AC drive system that can dish out 200HP for accelerating? For less than the cost of a new Tesla Model S? My Z2K and Dual Impulse 9's, with a LiIon battery pack does just fine. (and I have a 50A capable J1772 inlet, and station.) 12KW fast charging is nice. -- Tigers prowl and Dragons soar in my dreams... ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
Hi David, Golfcart batteries have about 1/8" ridge around the battery fill holes, so it is very unlikely that once the small amount of acid flowed over that ridge that it made its way back, it was not a large wave of acid, since it could not flow faster than that the auto-shutoff jug was filling, which is a trickle. So, I am quite sure that no baking soda made its way into the cell. My concern is, now that I removed some acid from the cell to bring the level back down and avoid overflowing while charging, that the total amount of acid is lower than in other cells, so this cell will have a tendency to go flat before the others - not by a large margin, but a few percent. I tend to avoid the bottom 20% of charge anyway and floodeds are quite forgiving in general, also my pack seem to have been relatively well balanced while I charge it sparingly, so I will just need to be extra careful in the next weeks until I dare to put the acid back in (after fully charging, of course - no need to create an even bigger mess) No other cells were overfilled, as far as I could determine the auto-shutoff operated correctly all other times (and that is also why I was not on top of it until it failed to shut off). I presume that you meant to say "unless it's very high in minerals" and luckily our water is the "softest" in the area. I grabbed the water report from the city and saw that our tap water has on average only 71 PPM (Parts per Million) total dissolved solids, of which 53 PPM calcium carbonate 12 PPM sodium The average Ph is 8.4 but varies between 6.5 and 9.4 since the total dissolved solids can vary between almost 0 and 109 PPM. That does mean that there are some impurities added to the cells, but not a large amount and since the amount of tapwater was approx 5% of the total fluid contents of the cell (my estimate) the total impurity level is about 3-4 PPM added total dissolved solids. I am no battery engineer though, so I do not know how bad that is, please enlighten me. Or time will tell... Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of EVDL Administrator via EV Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2014 9:18 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best? On 10 Aug 2014 at 19:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: > I suddenly heard an agitated hissing from the baking soda on the top > of the battery, being eaten by the overflowing acid from that cell ... > I have put extra baking sode around that fill hole after closing it > carefully and I have since bought a plastic syringe with which I will > remove some fluid from that cell and store it in a plastic bottle > until enough water has evaporated from that cell to put the acid back > in without overflowing. > > The second issue is more disastrous ... I had used *plain tap water* > to fill my batteries ... I'm not a battery expert, but this is my take on the situation. I'm more concerned about the first accident, and the possibility that some of the baking soda dissolved in dilute electrolyte may have flowed back into the cell. This might partly neutralize the remaining electrolyte, in addition to it already being more dilute. I think I would be inclined to completely drain the electrolyte from that battery, or at least that cell, and replace it immediately with fresh 1280 SG electrolyte from a good battery shop. As for other overfilled cells, depending on how dilute the electrolyte is, they may have become somewhat acid starved. Thus the electrolyte will go flat before the grids do. This will set your (now possibly lower) maximum amp hour capacity. A hydrometer will tell you how much they differ from the rest of the pack. Assuming you see a significant SG disparity, I'd suggest monitoring those batteries as you drive. That way, you can stop when they reach 80%DOD, no matter what the other batteries are doing. That will reduce the risk of reversing them. Or, you could drain the electrolyte from them too, and replace it with fresh 1280 SG electrolyte. As for your accidental use of tap water, it's very high in minerals, I personally don't think that one watering with it is going to be all that harmful to the battery. I don't recommend it as a practice, however. Especially since I'm not a chemist or engineer, other views are most welcome. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
s that I keep for watering, filled the auto-shutoff jug and started going through my pack. Two things happened, the first made a mess and the second is more serious: Because some battery boxes are between the frame rails, there are cross-members that are above the filling caps of some batteries, making access difficult so they can only be filled with the jug at an angle. Apparently having the jug at an angle can defeat the auto-shutoff because the jug kept on burping slowly (I thought that this was because it was at an angle and not running as fast as with the other better accessible cells) until I suddenly heard an agitated hissing from the baking soda on the top of the battery, being eaten by the overflowing acid from that cell. Oops. I have put extra baking sode around that fill hole after closing it carefully and I have since bought a plastic syringe with which I will remove some fluid from that cell and store it in a plastic bottle until enough water has evaporated from that cell to put the acid back in without overflowing. Anyone have a rule of thumb how much I should remove? until it is at the same level as the other cells filled with the auto-shutoff jug? The second issue is more disastrous and I can't still understand how I got so confused: after I used the 3 gallons to fill all batteries under the bed (the remaining 6 under the hood had to wait till I bought more water) I put the jug back at the shelf where I keep it and found the 3 gallons that I had purchased a couple months ago and stored there, near the auto-shutoff jug. They had been behind some wood for a project, so I had missed them earlier and I realized that I had used *plain tap water* to fill my batteries, because that is what I had used the old gallon jugs for - to store an emergency stash of drinking water... Quick calculation revealed that each cell received about 250ml of tap water, because I could fill almost 3 golf cart batteries with each filling of the 2 liter jug. Of course that is just a few percent of the volume of the cell, but I am wondering if the unwanted minerals in the electrolyte will cause premature damage to the cells (they are now 2 years old, 9,000 miles and I was hoping to go at least 1 or 2 more years with them, getting 15 or 20k miles out...) Do I need to have them emptied and refilled with clean acid or would the dissolved minerals not matter much in the grande scheme of things? I need to weigh my options and decide which route to go next & how much cost and benefit each would have. Your wisdom is appreciated! Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com<http://www.proxim.com/> <http://www.proxim.com<http://www.proxim.com/>> Email: cwa...@proxim.com<mailto:cwa...@proxim.com> Private: http://www.cvandewater.info<http://www.cvandewater.info/> <http://www.cvandewater.infom<http://www.cvandewater.infom/>> Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/5835e118/attachment.htm<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/5835e118/attachment.htm>> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140810/2874b72c/attachment.htm> ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
