Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
I got nice results using Dektol with Agfa ST8 sound film. Nicky Envoyé à partir de mon smartphone Sony Xperia™ Scott Dorsey a écrit Dektol is a very, very fast-working developer and very grainy. It is intended for paper and print materials, not for film. It may be possible to use very diluted dektol but you will have to do some testing on short lengths, and the results will tend to be inconsistent because of the short times. --scott ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
Yes, ST8 will run nicely in dektol, it is intended to run in print chemistry. --scott ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
EXCELLENT results tonight thanks to all you comrades. I only have one roll of Tri X in my fridge, which I will shoot and develop tomorrow. I do have some 2x and 4x rolls left though... Can I process those (as negative obviously) in Dektol? all the best, Mark Street www.markstreetfilms.com On Sun, Aug 2, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Scott Dorsey klu...@panix.com wrote: Yes, ST8 will run nicely in dektol, it is intended to run in print chemistry. --scott ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
Hi Roger, Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76? Am about to jump in as soon as it gets dark here in Brooklyn tonight, and I bought Dektol all the best, Mark Street www.markstreetfilms.com On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson rogerdwil...@sympatico.ca wrote: This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog. Hand Processing 16mm black and white film Materials for processing film as negative: Kodak D-76 Developer (powder) Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone film) 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers 1 Flat-top thermometer 1 Measuring graduate 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot) 1 Funnel 1 Pair rubber gloves 1 Face mask 1 Pair scissors 1 Length of string and clothes pegs 1 Pair goggles 1 Photographers loupe 1 Watch that glows in the dark You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough. Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room. Step by Step Instructions To develop film as negative: 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals. 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop time. 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail with water. 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks before processing film. 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when you turn the lights back on. 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in camera. 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes. 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer. Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes. 9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times. 10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry. 11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto spool/core. 12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast you turn handle. Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
On Jul 31, 2015, at 2:12 PM, Mark Street mstreet...@gmail.com wrote: Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76? It will be much more contrasty. Jeff Kreines Kinetta j...@kinetta.com kinetta.com ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
Dektol is a very, very fast-working developer and very grainy. It is intended for paper and print materials, not for film. It may be possible to use very diluted dektol but you will have to do some testing on short lengths, and the results will tend to be inconsistent because of the short times. --scott ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
Hey Mark! I've used Dektol with 3378, I like the look but have not used it with tri x. With the 3378 I only process in pail for about 2.5 minutes. Do a very short test of film, I suspect 3 mins at max for Dektol. Good luck! Sent from Outlook _ From: Mark Street mstreet...@gmail.com Sent: Friday, July 31, 2015 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage To: Experimental Film Discussion List frameworks@jonasmekasfilms.com Hi Roger, Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76? Am about to jump in as soon as it gets dark here in Brooklyn tonight, and I bought Dektol all the best, Mark Street www.markstreetfilms.com On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson rogerdwil...@sympatico.ca wrote: This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog. Hand Processing 16mm black and white film Materials for processing film as negative: Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone film)2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers 1 Flat-top thermometer1 Measuring graduate 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot)1 Funnel1 Pair rubber gloves 1 Face mask1 Pair scissors 1 Length of string and clothes pegs1 Pair goggles 1 Photographers loupe1 Watch that glows in the dark You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough. Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room. Step by Step Instructions To develop film as negative: 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals. 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop time. 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail with water. 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks before processing film. 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when you turn the lights back on. 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in camera. 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes. 8. At 2 minute
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
Thanks so much, Roger. This is excellent. all the best, Mark Street On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson rogerdwil...@sympatico.ca wrote: This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog. Hand Processing 16mm black and white film Materials for processing film as negative: Kodak D-76 Developer (powder) Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone film) 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers 1 Flat-top thermometer 1 Measuring graduate 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot) 1 Funnel 1 Pair rubber gloves 1 Face mask 1 Pair scissors 1 Length of string and clothes pegs 1 Pair goggles 1 Photographers loupe 1 Watch that glows in the dark You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough. Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room. Step by Step Instructions To develop film as negative: 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals. 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop time. 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail with water. 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks before processing film. 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when you turn the lights back on. 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in camera. 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes. 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer. Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes. 9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times. 10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry. 11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto spool/core. 12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast you turn handle. Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this eight times, each full
[Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
ooops forgot to change the subject heading on this Hey Party Animals, I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone point me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll be mostly trial and mostly error But a start (chemistry, times etc etc) would be appreciated. all the best, Mark Street *www.markstreetfilms.com http://www.markstreetfilms.com* On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Mark Street mstreet...@gmail.com wrote: Hey Party Animal, I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone point me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll be mostly trial and mostly error But a start (chemistry, times etc etc) would be appreciated. all the best, Mark Street *www.markstreetfilms.com http://www.markstreetfilms.com* On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael Betancourt hinterland.mov...@gmail.com wrote: I have a piece on Joshua Gen Solondz's flicker film *Prisoner's Cinema* that's up on Bright Lights Film Journal. http://brightlightsfilm.com/technology-and-transcendence-on-joshua-gen-solondzs-prisoners-cinema-2012/#.VbT60vlViko Michael Betancourt Savannah, GA USA michaelbetancourt.com twitter.com/cinegraphic | vimeo.com/cinegraphic www.cinegraphic.net | the avant-garde film video blog ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks ___ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage
This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog. Hand Processing 16mm black and white filmMaterials for processing film as negative: Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone film)2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers1 Flat-top thermometer1 Measuring graduate4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot)1 Funnel1 Pair rubber gloves1 Face mask1 Pair scissors1 Length of string and clothes pegs1 Pair goggles1 Photographers loupe1 Watch that glows in the dark You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough. Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room. Step by Step Instructions To develop film as negative: 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals. 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop time. 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail with water. 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks before processing film. 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when you turn the lights back on. 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in camera. 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes. 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer. Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes. 9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times. 10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry. 11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto spool/core. 12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast you turn handle. Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute. Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this eight times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast you turn handle. Sent from Outlook On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:59 PM -0700, Mark Street mstreet...@gmail.com wrote: ooops forgot to change the subject heading on this Hey Party Animals, I
