Re: Networkable USB print servers
On Dec 1, 2010, at 6:52 PM, JoeTaxpayer joetaxpaye...@gmail.com wrote: I have an HP OfficeJet. It's pluged into my G4 MDD. I turned on print sharing and all the computers in the house can see it. So I'll ask - what does a print server do different or more than my set up? A print server doesn't require the host computer to be on all the time. It also let's you pit the printer wherever an Ethernet cable (max length around 100 meters, IIRC) will reach. -- Bruce -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: A Simple Solution to the eMac Hard Drive Issue
On Dec 2, 1:20 am, Jonas Ulrich jonasulrich3...@gmail.com wrote: As for danger, I seriously doubt it's that dangerous. I suppose you are sort of opening up a CRT monitor, which can be dangerous, just stay away from the components in the actual CRT, and if you are worried about it, I'm sure there are measures that can be taken in order to drain any electricity from the CRT before you work on it. Most (all?) CRT flybacks since the late 80s have a built in bleeder circuit to drain off the CRT charge after the system is powered down. I strongly doubt that there is any electrical shock danger from an unplugged eMac. Also, while the voltage is high, the current and available power is tiny. You'd have to be fantastically unlucky to be injured even if you were to touch a charged CRT. The *only* time I've been shocked by a CRT was when I went to discharge an old Mac 512K. Trying to avoid being shocked by discharging the CRT is the exact thing which caused me to be shocked. Better to just stay away from the CRT/flyback connection rather than attempt to discharge it. And that shock, it was uncomfortable, but hardly injurious. Then again, I've been electrocuted by wall current more times than I count and the only time it had any effect beyond discomfort was the one time I got a 220V jolt from the mains on an electric water heater. That did knock be back a bit. So maybe I just have some of relation to Uncle Fester. Jeff Walther -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: A Simple Solution to the eMac Hard Drive Issue
On 2010/12/02 09:08, t...@io.com so eloquently wrote: Most (all?) CRT flybacks since the late 80s have a built in bleeder circuit to drain off the CRT charge after the system is powered down. There's always the remote possibility that the bleeder circuit is damaged or non-functioning for some reason. Better safe than sorry. maybe I just have some of relation to Uncle Fester. Do you prefer incandescent or CFL? :-p Tina -- iMac 20 USB 2 1.25GHz G4 2GB RAM GeForce FX 5200 Ultra 64MB DDR Gnome/Ubuntu 10.10 Power Mac June 04 2GHz G5DP 8GB RAM GeForce 6800 Ultra DDL 256MB Leopard 10.5.8 PowerBook G4 15 HiRes DLSD 1.67GHz G4 2GB RAM Radeon 9700 128MB DDR Leopard 10.5.8 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Networkable USB print servers
On Dec 1, 2010, at 7:25 PM, Fabian Fang wrote: On Dec 1, 2010, at 4:13 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: I have an old Belkin Wireless USB Print Server (Model Number F1UP0001) that has worked well for me over quite some years. Judging by the number of HP Deskjet printers included on the following very much dated compatibility list, it may well work with your freebie printer. It works with my seven-year-old HP Photosmart 7350 printer. http://www.belkin.com/support/compatlists/F1UP0001.htm Here is Belkin's limited support page for it: http://en-us-support.belkin.com/app/answers/list/kw/F1UP0001/r_id/166/search/1 When you use the photosmart off a printserver, are you still able to access all the features, ie scan, ocr fax? I tried and failed to get a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into my Airport, but then discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it had to hardwired to the computer to take advantage of all the features. Jeff Jun '04 dpG5 1.8, OS-10.5.8 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Networkable USB print servers
On Dec 2, 2010, at 8:42 AM, Jeff Bequette wrote: When you use the photosmart off a printserver, are you still able to access all the features, ie scan, ocr fax? I tried and failed to get a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into my Airport, but then discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it had to hardwired to the computer to take advantage of all the features. My HP Photosmart 7350 is just a printer, not an AIO (multi-function). -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Networkable USB print servers
On Dec 2, 2010, at 10:42 AM, Jeff Bequette wrote: I tried and failed to get a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into my Airport, but then discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it had to hardwired to the computer to take advantage of all the features. This is a function of the wireless router, not the AIO unit. Airport routers are rudimentary and don't support wireless scanning, but you can replace your Airport router with a non-Apple router that supports wireless scanning and enable this feature of the AIO. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Thunder 1 thunder...@mindspring.com wrote: It was suggested here that you put the new drive in a box and use it as an external drive; I agree that would be a good approach. At the very least, you could copy all your files to it and then delete the stuff that is filling up the internal HDD. Aside from the (most likely) higher throughput you'd get from attaching the new drive via the internal PATA bus versus externally via Firewire (or USB if your eMac supports it), there is another consideration. Recent hard drives, even PATA drives, are much faster than the drives made at the time the eMac was built. The newer drives use higher bit density platters which means they can move more data for same physical distance the platter travels. Attaching the drive externally and cloning/copying the existing drive would be a good place to start. But if you can find a way to attach the drive internally then I think you're likely to notice the system will feel a tad faster. Out of curiosity, what new 500 GB drive did you order from OWC to swap into the eMac? Which model/generation of eMac would you be working on? I see that the eMac's PATA controller range from ATA-66 up to ATA-100 depending on which one you have. www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/index-emac.html Also, for what it's worth here's yet another link to another description of how to replace the hard drive in an eMac. This one is from www.everymac.com. www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/faq/emac-replace-or-upgrade-hard-drive-expansion.html -irrational john -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Networkable USB print servers
Thanks. It does fit a niche, I see. For me, I'm used to an always-on G4. But at least I understand the function of the device, now. On Dec 2, 8:28 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Dec 1, 2010, at 6:52 PM, JoeTaxpayer joetaxpaye...@gmail.com wrote: I have an HP OfficeJet. It's pluged into my G4 MDD. I turned on print sharing and all the computers in the house can see it. So I'll ask - what does a print server do different or more than my set up? A print server doesn't require the host computer to be on all the time. It also let's you pit the printer wherever an Ethernet cable (max length around 100 meters, IIRC) will reach. -- Bruce -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Dec 2, 2010, at 12:44 PM, Dan wrote: At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. Incorrect, tires are not great conductors, they are POOR conductors, what we in the trade would call Resistors. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. It doesn't matter whether the car frame is insulated or grounded, it's a Faraday cage (more or less) so the current (if the car is grounded) passes around you and the voltage (if the car is insulated) is equi-potential all around you so there is no voltage across your body. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. Agreed. The only time jumping might be recommended is if something worse is about to happen. Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop
The new OWC external HD enclosure arrived today, and I took the drive that had vanished from the desktop out of its old enclosure and put it into the new one, but it didn't do any good. The drive still doesn't show up on the desktop from inside its new enclosure, even though it spins up and goes clickety-clack for a few seconds while it's starting up, just like a healthy hard drive. As an experiment, I put an old 500GB drive into the old enclosure, and it does show up on the desktop. Then I put the old 55G into the new enclosure that arrived today, and again it shows up on the desktop. Which means that the problem was not a defective enclosure, since all the enclosures work--it's a defective drive. With that established, what to do now, if anything? Bash the drive with a hammer, freeze it in the freezer--anything at all--to somehow make it show on the desktop, at least long enough to get the data off it? My copy of the newest Disk Warrior has not yet arrived in the mail. Any chance that when it does arrive, it might be able to find and repair this invisible drive? (And to answer your questions just above, Nick, yes, the Finder Prefs are set to show all drives on the desktop, and no Disk Utility cannot see the drive. Thanks for the suggestions). Tom -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote: At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. Refinance Now 3.4% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage: $547/mo. No Hidden Fees. No SSN Req. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4cf83fd468aef58413dst02vuc -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote: On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote: At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a thunder-and-lightning storm! :-O Refinance Now 3.4% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage: $547/mo. No Hidden Fees. No SSN Req. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4cf83fd468aef58413dst02vuc -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Dec 2, 2010, at 7:10 PM, Yersinia wrote: On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote: On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote: At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a thunder-and-lightning storm! :-O Hiding under the bed might offer even more security. JT Globe Life Insurance $1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4cf853bae2e8c4ec06est06vuc -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
Just so you all know, yes I did strip all I could. Now NOW, If I am in this electricified car and I have a dog on a leash and I open the door to jump out but before I can, Sparky jumps out and I am still holding his leash, will this be the source of the name hot dog? JML. I'm a designated FREE SPIRIT HITCHHIKING on the Information Super Highway --- On Thu, 12/2/10, Yersinia yersi...@myfairpoint.net wrote: From: Yersinia yersi...@myfairpoint.net Subject: Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 5:10 PM On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote: On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote: At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote: a minor wise point here - if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT Correct. - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator. Incorrect. The tires are not made of pure rubber. They are made from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc. Then there are those pesky steel belts. IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators. You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground. Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground. It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter. The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical circuit and you will be toast. Correct. If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground. That would be bad. BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit the car with no problems. But to take that flying leap... Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 volts per inch. You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit... This is totally not recommended. The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off. Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a thunder-and-lightning storm! :-O -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell asleep after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it froze the same way it did before. I'm realizing that every time I ran the software update, the computer fell asleep at the end, and it froze when I woke it. So maybe it has a problem waking up? -Jonas -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
From the other Jonas, I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and all was well. So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work just fine. I'm a designated FREE SPIRIT HITCHHIKING on the Information Super Highway --- On Thu, 12/2/10, Jonas Ulrich jonasulrich3...@gmail.com wrote: From: Jonas Ulrich jonasulrich3...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 6:29 PM Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell asleep after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it froze the same way it did before. I'm realizing that every time I ran the software update, the computer fell asleep at the end, and it froze when I woke it. So maybe it has a problem waking up? -Jonas -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
Similar situation with my wife's Quicksilver - solved with Jiggler freeware from http://www.sticksoftware.com/software/Jiggler.html Eric On 12/2/10 7:45 PM, Jonas Lopez wrote: From the other Jonas, I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and all was well. So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work just fine. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
All, I see things differently than this. QS + Sleep/Wake = Freeze = Bad Solution 1: Find out what is causing the problem in the first place. I remember I believe on this list (might have been another) that some USB add on cards cause this problem. Solution 2: Disable Sleep Capability. Not sure if you need it or want it but if it causes your computer to freeze you should disable it. (My QS is a server so I've disabled the Sleep function). Albert From: t...@savingus.org t...@savingus.org To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Cc: Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2010 10:00:13 PM Subject: Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update Similar situation with my wife's Quicksilver - solved with Jiggler freeware from http://www.sticksoftware.com/software/Jiggler.html Eric On 12/2/10 7:45 PM, Jonas Lopez wrote: From the other Jonas, I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and all was well. So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work just fine. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
Isn't this waaay off-topic? -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote: Isn't this waaay off-topic? It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is the largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list to get a response, even if it's the wrong one. Isaac -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
Previously, at 11:24 PM -0500 12/2/10, as Isaac Smith so eloquently wrote: On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote: Isn't this waaay off-topic? It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is the largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list to get a response, even if it's the wrong one. Isaac It also has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with computers. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
On Dec 2, 2010, at 6:29 PM, Jonas Ulrich wrote: Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell asleep after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it froze the same way it did before. I'm realizing that every time I ran the software update, the computer fell asleep at the end, and it froze when I woke it. So maybe it has a problem waking up? -Jonas Set the preferences to never sleep and no hard drive spin down during the operation. JOHN CARMONNE Yorba Linda USA From TiBook 867 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:39 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote: Previously, at 11:24 PM -0500 12/2/10, as Isaac Smith so eloquently wrote: On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote: Isn't this waaay off-topic? It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is the largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list to get a response, even if it's the wrong one. Isaac It also has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with computers. Well, the latest posts don't. (I hadn't checked them yet) Originally it was complaining about an Apple tech refusing to fix a G4 eMac, and people responding with how to go about a hard drive replacement. I don't know how that got to where it was in the last few posts. The nannies should jump in soon. Isaac -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop
(Update): In wandering around the Internet reading about resurrecting dead drives, I ran across this website: http://tinyurl.com/69ujzy where you can listen to the clicking sounds made by busted drives as they start up, and unfortunately mine sounds like one of them. It starts and spins up fine, but the clicks I hear on startup, that I always thought were normal, now don't sound so good, after hearing those samples. Some websites call it the Seagate Death Rattle. I think my drive has gone and rattled itself into an early grave. So, I guess the drive and all my data on it are toast. NEVER AGAIN will I not constantly back up everything as I work on it. This episode has demonstrated to me how hard drives, any hard drives, even a nearly-new one like the one that just imploded on me, even though it was never moved and was connected to a UPS/surge protector, can just suddenly die and vanish from the computer's desktop in the blink of an eye, without warning, never to return, and taking all your data and hard work with it. NEVER TRUST THE DAMN THINGS! THEYRE JUST LITTLE TICKING TIME BOMBS! Yet they're all we've got, so we have to live with them. I'm ordering another new drive to put in the dead drive's enclosure, now that it's shown itself to be a good enclosure, and that will become my back up drive for the other one I just got. I TRUST NOTHING anymore! Thanks again to all who tried to help me out here. Best wishes, Tom -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:35 AM, Tom tba...@nmia.com wrote: So, I guess the drive and all my data on it are toast. I forget how this all began but I believe you said the bad drive was from a 1 TB Mercury Elite Pro external hard drive you bought from OWC about 1 1/2 years ago, correct? Since I've seen so many oos and ahhhs here about OWC supporting their products I suggest you at least talk to their support folk and see what, if anything, they will do for you about replacing the bad drive under (hopefully) warranty. If the drive is truly as dead as you describe then you probably can't get your data back, but you should at least get a replacement for it. The typical hard drive warranty I expect to get is 3 years. I assume that since you keep on buying more stuff from them you also must have a lot of faith in OWC, no? -irrational john -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
