Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop

2010-12-02 Thread John Martz
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:35 AM, Tom  wrote:
>
> So, I guess the drive and all my data on it are toast.
>

I forget how this all began but I believe you said the bad drive was
from a 1 TB Mercury Elite Pro external hard drive you bought from OWC
about 1 1/2 years ago, correct?

Since I've seen so many "oos" and "ahhhs" here about OWC
supporting their products I suggest you at least talk to their support
folk and see what, if anything, they will do for you about replacing
the bad drive under (hopefully) warranty. If the drive is truly as
dead as you describe then you probably can't get your data back, but
you should at least get a replacement for it. The typical hard drive
warranty I expect to get is 3 years.

I assume that since you keep on buying more stuff from them you also
must have a lot of faith in OWC, no?

-irrational john

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Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop

2010-12-02 Thread Tom
(Update): In wandering around the Internet reading about resurrecting
dead drives, I ran across this website: 
where you can listen to the clicking sounds made by busted drives as
they start up, and unfortunately mine sounds like one of them. It
starts and spins up fine, but the clicks I hear on startup, that I
always thought were normal, now don't sound so good, after hearing
those samples. Some websites call it the Seagate Death Rattle. I think
my drive has gone and rattled itself into an early grave.

So, I guess the drive and all my data on it are toast.

NEVER AGAIN will I not constantly back up everything as I work on it.
This episode has demonstrated to me how hard drives, any hard drives,
even a nearly-new one like the one that just imploded on me, even
though it was never moved and was connected to a UPS/surge protector,
can just suddenly die and vanish from the computer's desktop in the
blink of an eye, without warning, never to return, and taking all your
data and hard work with it. NEVER TRUST THE DAMN THINGS! THEYRE JUST
LITTLE TICKING TIME BOMBS! Yet they're all we've got, so we have to
live with them.

I'm ordering another new drive to put in the dead drive's enclosure,
now that it's shown itself to be a good enclosure, and that will
become my back up drive for the other one I just got. I TRUST NOTHING
anymore!

Thanks again to all who tried to help me out here.

Best wishes,

Tom

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Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Isaac Smith

On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:39 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote:

> Previously, at 11:24 PM -0500 12/2/10,  as Isaac Smith  so eloquently wrote:
>> On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote:
>> 
>>> Isn't this waaay off-topic?
>> 
>> It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is 
>> the
>> largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list 
>> to get
>> a response, even if it's the wrong one.
>> 
>> Isaac
> 
> 
> It also has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with computers.

Well, the latest posts don't. (I hadn't checked them yet) Originally it was 
complaining about an Apple tech refusing to fix a G4 eMac, and people 
responding with how to go about a hard drive replacement. I don't know how that 
got to where it was in the last few posts.

The nannies should jump in soon.

Isaac

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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

2010-12-02 Thread John Carmonne


On Dec 2, 2010, at 6:29 PM, Jonas Ulrich wrote:

Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell  
asleep after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it  
froze the same way it did before. I'm realizing that every time I  
ran the software update, the computer fell asleep at the end, and  
it froze when I woke it. So maybe it has a problem waking up?


-Jonas


Set the preferences to never sleep and no hard drive spin down during  
the operation.


JOHN CARMONNE
Yorba Linda USA
From TiBook 867




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Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Paul Stamsen
Previously, at 11:24 PM -0500 12/2/10,  as Isaac Smith  so eloquently wrote:
>On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote:
>
>> Isn't this waaay off-topic?
>
>It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is the
>largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list 
>to get
>a response, even if it's the wrong one.
>
>Isaac


 It also has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with computers.

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Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Isaac Smith
On Dec 2, 2010, at 11:15 PM, Paul Stamsen wrote:

> Isn't this waaay off-topic?

It's just in the wrong list, but understandably so, since the G3-5 list is the 
largest and very few people read the iMac/eMac list. This is the better list to 
get a response, even if it's the wrong one.

Isaac

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Re: Changing the subject: WAS: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Paul Stamsen
Isn't this waaay off-topic?

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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

2010-12-02 Thread Albert Carter
All,

 I see things differently than this.

QS + Sleep/Wake = Freeze = Bad

Solution 1: Find out what is causing the problem in the first place. I remember 
I believe on this list (might have been another) that some USB add on cards 
cause this problem.
Solution 2: Disable Sleep Capability. Not sure if you need it or want it but if 
it causes your computer to freeze you should disable it. (My QS is a server so 
I've disabled the Sleep function).


Albert




From: "t...@savingus.org" 
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2010 10:00:13 PM
Subject: Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

Similar situation with my wife's Quicksilver - solved with Jiggler 
freeware from http://www.sticksoftware.com/software/Jiggler.html

Eric

On 12/2/10 7:45 PM, Jonas Lopez wrote:
>  From the other Jonas,
>
> I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and
> all was well.
>
> So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work
> just fine.

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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

2010-12-02 Thread t...@savingus.org
Similar situation with my wife's Quicksilver - solved with Jiggler 
freeware from http://www.sticksoftware.com/software/Jiggler.html


Eric

On 12/2/10 7:45 PM, Jonas Lopez wrote:

 From the other Jonas,

I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and
all was well.

So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work
just fine.


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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

2010-12-02 Thread Jonas Lopez
>From the other Jonas,

I have had that problem too and re did it making sure to stay awake and all was 
well. 

So, keep moving the mouse, so it will not go to sleep, and it will work just 
fine.

"I'm a designated FREE SPIRIT HITCHHIKING on the Information Super Highway"

--- On Thu, 12/2/10, Jonas Ulrich  wrote:

From: Jonas Ulrich 
Subject: Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update
To: "g3-5-list@googlegroups.com" 
Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 6:29 PM

Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell asleep 
after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it froze the same way 
it did before. I'm realizing that every time I ran the software update, the 
computer fell asleep at the end, and it froze when I woke it. So maybe it has a 
problem waking up?


-Jonas








  

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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

2010-12-02 Thread Jonas Ulrich
Ok. So I ran disk utility, and left the machine unattended. It fell asleep
after the verification came back OK. When I woke it up, it froze the same
way it did before. I'm realizing that every time I ran the software update,
the computer fell asleep at the end, and it froze when I woke it. So maybe
it has a problem waking up?

-Jonas

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Jonas Lopez
Just so you all know, yes I did strip all I could. Now NOW,

If I am in this electricified car and I have a dog on a leash and I open the 
door to jump out but before I can, Sparky jumps out and I am still holding his 
leash, will this be the source of the name hot dog?

JML.

"I'm a designated FREE SPIRIT HITCHHIKING on the Information Super Highway"
--- On Thu, 12/2/10, Yersinia  wrote:

From: Yersinia 
Subject: Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 5:10 PM

 On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote:
> 
> On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote:
> 
>> At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:
>>> a minor wise point here -
>>> 
>>> if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to 
>>> fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET 
>>> OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the 
>>> ELECTRIC CIRCUIT
>> 
>> Correct.
>> 
>>> - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from 
>>> burning since they act as a nice insulator.
>> 
>> Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made from a 
>> blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there are those pesky 
>> steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) 
>> NOT insulators.
>> 
>> You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the 
>> current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground.  Some 
>> of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity 
>> prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground.
> 
> It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box whereas 
> most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter.
> 
> 
>> 
>>> The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical 
>>> circuit and you will be toast.
>> 
>> Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with 
>> the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground.  
>> That would be bad.
>> 
>>> BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can 
>>> exit the car with no problems.
>> 
>> But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 
>> volts per inch.  You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet 
>> pavement, by quite a bit...  This is totally not recommended.  The best 
>> thing to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off.

Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a 
thunder-and-lightning storm!  :-O



  

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread James Therrault


On Dec 2, 2010, at 7:10 PM, Yersinia wrote:


 On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote:


On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote:


At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:

a minor wise point here -

if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead  
wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO  
NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger  
provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT


Correct.

- the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will  
prevent it from burning since they act as a nice insulator.


Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made  
from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there  
are those pesky steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great*  
conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT insulators.


You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car,  
because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the  
tires, to ground.  Some of the current is going thru you, but  
it's a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route -  
thru the tires to ground.


It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?)  
box whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer  
perimeter.





The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the  
electrical circuit and you will be toast.


Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in  
contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the  
better route to ground.  That would be bad.


BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then  
you can exit the car with no problems.


But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of  
about 10,000 volts per inch.  You better clear the car  
completely, *and* all the wet pavement, by quite a bit...  This  
is totally not recommended.  The best thing to do is just sit  
tight until the power is turned off.


Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a  
thunder-and-lightning storm!  :-O



Hiding under the bed might offer even more "security."

JT




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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Yersinia

 On 12/2/10 7:54 PM, James Therrault wrote:


On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote:


At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:

a minor wise point here -

if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead 
wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT 
MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger 
provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT


Correct.

- the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it 
from burning since they act as a nice insulator.


Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made 
from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there are 
those pesky steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. 
They are (luckily!) NOT insulators.


You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because 
the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to 
ground.  Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial 
amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to 
ground.


It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box 
whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter.





The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the 
electrical circuit and you will be toast.


Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact 
with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route 
to ground.  That would be bad.


BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you 
can exit the car with no problems.


But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of about 
10,000 volts per inch.  You better clear the car completely, *and* 
all the wet pavement, by quite a bit...  This is totally not 
recommended.  The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power 
is turned off.


Yesh. Personally, I think I'll just stay indoors during a 
thunder-and-lightning storm!  :-O




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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread James Therrault


On Dec 2, 2010, at 2:44 PM, Dan wrote:


At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:

a minor wise point here -

if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead  
wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT  
MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger  
provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT


Correct.

- the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent  
it from burning since they act as a nice insulator.


Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made  
from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there are  
those pesky steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great* conductors.  
They are (luckily!) NOT insulators.


You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car,  
because the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the  
tires, to ground.  Some of the current is going thru you, but it's  
a trivial amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru  
the tires to ground.


It might be worth mentioning that the car acts as a Faraday (sp?) box  
whereas most of the voltage/current remains on the outer perimeter.





The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the  
electrical circuit and you will be toast.


Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in  
contact with the chasis, then the current would use you as the  
better route to ground.  That would be bad.


BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then  
you can exit the car with no problems.


But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of about  
10,000 volts per inch.  You better clear the car completely, *and*  
all the wet pavement, by quite a bit...  This is totally not  
recommended.  The best thing to do is just sit tight until the  
power is turned off.




Refinance Now 3.4% FIXED
$160,000 Mortgage: $547/mo. No Hidden Fees. No SSN Req. Get 4 Quotes!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4cf83fd468aef58413dst02vuc

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Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop

2010-12-02 Thread Tom
The new OWC external HD enclosure arrived today, and I took the drive
that had vanished from the desktop out of its old enclosure and put it
into the new one, but it didn't do any good. The drive still doesn't
show up on the desktop from inside its new enclosure, even though it
spins up and goes clickety-clack for a few seconds while it's starting
up, just like a healthy hard drive.

As an experiment, I put an old 500GB drive into the old enclosure, and
it does show up on the desktop. Then I put the old 55G into the new
enclosure that arrived today, and again it shows up on the desktop.
Which means that the problem was not a defective enclosure, since all
the enclosures work--it's a defective drive.

With that established, what to do now, if anything? Bash the drive
with a hammer, freeze it in the freezer--anything at all--to somehow
make it show on the desktop, at least long enough to get the data off
it?

My copy of the newest Disk Warrior has not yet arrived in the mail.
Any chance that when it does arrive, it might be able to find and
repair this invisible drive?

(And to answer your questions just above, Nick, yes, the Finder Prefs
are set to show all drives on the desktop, and no Disk Utility cannot
see the drive. Thanks for the suggestions).

Tom

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Clark Martin

On Dec 2, 2010, at 12:44 PM, Dan wrote:

> At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:
>> a minor wise point here -
>> 
>> if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead wires to 
>> fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT MOVE, DO NOT GET 
>> OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger provided your not a part of the 
>> ELECTRIC CIRCUIT
> 
> Correct.
> 
>> - the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it from 
>> burning since they act as a nice insulator.
> 
> Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made from a 
> blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there are those pesky 
> steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. They are (luckily!) NOT 
> insulators.
> 
Incorrect, tires are not "great" conductors, they are POOR conductors, what we 
in the trade would call "Resistors".

> You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because the 
> current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to ground.  Some 
> of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial amount, as electricity 
> prefers the better route - thru the tires to ground.

It doesn't matter whether the car frame is insulated or grounded, it's a 
Faraday cage (more or less) so the current (if the car is  grounded) passes 
around you and the voltage (if the car is insulated) is equi-potential all 
around you so there is no voltage across your body.

> 
>> The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the electrical 
>> circuit and you will be toast.
> 
> Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact with the 
> chasis, then the current would use you as the better route to ground.  That 
> would be bad.
> 
>> BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you can exit 
>> the car with no problems.
> 
> But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of about 10,000 
> volts per inch.  You better clear the car completely, *and* all the wet 
> pavement, by quite a bit...  This is totally not recommended.  The best thing 
> to do is just sit tight until the power is turned off.
> 

Agreed.  The only time jumping might be recommended is if something worse is 
about to happen.

Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

"I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway"

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Dan

At 8:44 PM -0800 12/1/2010, Jonas Lopez wrote:

a minor wise point here -

if you are ever in your car and a storm causes electric overhead 
wires to fall on the car and you can see sparks outside -- DO NOT 
MOVE, DO NOT GET OUT OF YOUR CAR - you are in no real danger 
provided your not a part of the ELECTRIC CIRCUIT


Correct.

- the metal of your car is ELECTRIFIED but the tires will prevent it 
from burning since they act as a nice insulator.


Incorrect.  The tires are not made of pure rubber.  They are made 
from a blend of rubber, synthetics, metallics, etc.  Then there are 
those pesky steel belts.  IOW, your tires are *great* conductors. 
They are (luckily!) NOT insulators.


You don't get electrocuted, as long as you're inside the car, because 
the current is passing thru the metal chassis, thru the tires, to 
ground.  Some of the current is going thru you, but it's a trivial 
amount, as electricity prefers the better route - thru the tires to 
ground.


The way out of this is NOT TO STEP OUT as that will complete the 
electrical circuit and you will be toast.


Correct.  If you were to step out of the car, while still in contact 
with the chasis, then the current would use you as the better route 
to ground.  That would be bad.


BUT if you can jump out BEING SURE YOUR TOTALLY IN THE AIR then you 
can exit the car with no problems.


But to take that flying leap...  Current jumps at the rate of about 
10,000 volts per inch.  You better clear the car completely, *and* 
all the wet pavement, by quite a bit...  This is totally not 
recommended.  The best thing to do is just sit tight until the power 
is turned off.


- Dan.
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- Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth.

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Re: Networkable USB print servers

2010-12-02 Thread JoeTaxpayer
Thanks. It does fit a niche, I see. For me, I'm used to an always-on
G4. But at least I understand the function of the device, now.

On Dec 2, 8:28 am, Bruce Johnson  wrote:
> On Dec 1, 2010, at 6:52 PM, JoeTaxpayer  wrote:
>
> > I have an HP OfficeJet.
> > It's pluged into my G4 MDD. I turned on print sharing and all the
> > computers in the house can see it.
> > So I'll ask - what does a print server do different or more than my
> > set up?
>
> A print server doesn't require the host computer to be on all the time. It 
> also let's you pit the printer wherever an Ethernet cable (max length around 
> 100 meters, IIRC)  will reach.
>
> --
> Bruce

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Thunder 1  wrote:
> It was suggested here that you put the new drive in a box and use it
> as an external drive; I agree that would be a good approach. At the very
> least, you could copy all your files to it and then delete the stuff that is
> filling up the internal HDD.
>

Aside from the (most likely) higher throughput you'd get from
attaching the new drive via the internal PATA bus versus externally
via Firewire (or USB if your eMac supports it), there is another
consideration.

Recent hard drives, even PATA drives, are much faster than the drives
made at the time the eMac was built. The newer drives use higher bit
density platters which means they can move more data for same physical
distance the platter travels.

Attaching the drive externally and cloning/copying the existing drive
would be a good place to start. But if you can find a way to attach
the drive internally then I think you're likely to notice the system
will feel a tad "faster".

Out of curiosity, what "new" 500 GB drive did you order from OWC to
swap into the eMac? Which model/generation of eMac would you be
working on? I see that the eMac's PATA controller range from ATA-66 up
to ATA-100 depending on which one you have.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/index-emac.html

Also, for what it's worth here's yet another link to another
description of how to replace the hard drive in an eMac. This one is
from www.everymac.com.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/faq/emac-replace-or-upgrade-hard-drive-expansion.html

-irrational john

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread Thunder 1

On Dec 1, 5:09 pm, Tom  wrote:
> My sister-in-law has a G4 eMac that came with a 40-gig drive, which
> has filled up. The computer is perfectly functional, though, and
> serves all her needs; she just needs more storage room.
>
> So, I called the local Apple store (in Albuquerque) to see if they'd
> put the drive in for me, and was told that "we don't service older
> Macs. And that one is even dangerous to open up."
>
Tom, I hear what you're saying about the local Apple Store here in
Burque. My equipment is usually out of warranty by the time something
occurs that needs a tech to fix, so I found a place that I believe is
excellent for Mac repair (certified tech, etc.)

Give a call to
Networking & Computer Communications, Inc.,
1820 San Pedro NE
346-1430

The previous Mac tech there, Neil Jensen, passed away a few years ago,
and I had a motherboard replaced by the guy that took his place. Good
work,
in my opinion. They may have a newer tech there now, too, cuz it has
been
awhile since I had need of their services.

It was suggested here that you put the new drive in a box and use it
as an
external drive; I agree that would be a good approach. At the very
least,
you could copy all your files to it and then delete the stuff that is
filling up
the internal HDD.

I'm adventurous, too, so tearing apart a computer is not out of the
question
for me. However, PLEASE follow all the discharging and grounding
instructions!!!
Fried Mac members are frowned upon here. : )

Hope this helps. Let us know please.
Bill

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Re: Networkable USB print servers

2010-12-02 Thread Kris Tilford

On Dec 2, 2010, at 10:42 AM, Jeff Bequette wrote:

I tried and failed to get a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into  
my Airport, but then discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it  
had to hardwired to the computer to take advantage of all the  
features.


This is a function of the wireless router, not the AIO unit. Airport  
routers are rudimentary and don't support wireless scanning, but you  
can replace your Airport router with a non-Apple router that supports  
wireless scanning and enable this feature of the AIO.


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Re: Networkable USB print servers

2010-12-02 Thread Fabian Fang

On Dec 2, 2010, at 8:42 AM, Jeff Bequette wrote:

When you use the photosmart off a printserver, are you still able to  
access all the features, ie scan, ocr fax?  I tried and failed to  
get a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into my Airport, but then  
discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it had to hardwired to  
the computer to take advantage of all the features.



My HP Photosmart 7350 is just a printer, not an AIO (multi-function).

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Re: Networkable USB print servers

2010-12-02 Thread Jeff Bequette


On Dec 1, 2010, at 7:25 PM, Fabian Fang wrote:


On Dec 1, 2010, at 4:13 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:

I have an old Belkin Wireless USB Print Server (Model Number  
F1UP0001) that has worked well for me over quite some years.   
Judging by the number of HP Deskjet printers included on the  
following very much dated compatibility list, it may well work with  
your freebie printer.  It works with my seven-year-old HP Photosmart  
7350 printer.




Here is Belkin's limited support page for it:





When you use the photosmart off a printserver, are you still able to  
access all the features, ie scan, ocr fax?  I tried and failed to get  
a HP Photosmart 2610 to work plugged into my Airport, but then  
discovered, buried DEEP on the website that it had to hardwired to the  
computer to take advantage of all the features.


Jeff

Jun '04 dpG5 1.8, OS-10.5.8


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Re: A Simple Solution to the eMac Hard Drive Issue

2010-12-02 Thread Tina K.

On 2010/12/02 09:08, t...@io.com so eloquently wrote:

Most (all?) CRT flybacks since the late 80s have a built in bleeder
circuit to drain off the CRT charge after the system is powered down.


There's always the remote possibility that the bleeder circuit is 
damaged or non-functioning for some reason. Better safe than sorry.



maybe I just have some of relation to Uncle Fester.


Do you prefer incandescent or CFL? :-p

Tina

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Re: A Simple Solution to the eMac Hard Drive Issue

2010-12-02 Thread t...@io.com


On Dec 2, 1:20 am, Jonas Ulrich  wrote:

> As for danger, I seriously doubt it's that dangerous. I suppose you are sort
> of opening up a CRT monitor, which can be dangerous, just stay away from the
> components in the actual CRT, and if you are worried about it, I'm sure
> there are measures that can be taken in order to drain any electricity from
> the CRT before you work on it.

Most (all?) CRT flybacks since the late 80s have a built in bleeder
circuit to drain off the CRT charge after the system is powered down.

I strongly doubt that there is any electrical shock danger from an
unplugged eMac.

Also, while the voltage is high, the current and available power is
tiny.  You'd have to be fantastically unlucky to be injured even if
you were to touch a charged CRT.

The *only* time I've been shocked by a CRT was when I went to
discharge an old Mac 512K.   Trying to avoid being shocked by
discharging the CRT is the exact thing which caused me to be
shocked.   Better to just stay away from the CRT/flyback connection
rather than attempt to discharge it.

And that shock, it was uncomfortable, but hardly injurious.   Then
again, I've been electrocuted by wall current more times than I count
and the only time it had any effect beyond discomfort was the one time
I got a 220V jolt from the mains on an electric water heater.  That
did knock be back a bit.   So maybe I just have some of relation to
Uncle Fester.

Jeff Walther

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Re: A Simple Solution to the eMac Hard Drive Issue

2010-12-02 Thread James Therrault


On Dec 2, 2010, at 12:51 AM, Tina K. wrote:


On 2010/12/01 19:48, Bruce so eloquently wrote:

You do not need to put your new hard drive in the eMac.

Put the new hard drive in an external case, and plug it into the  
eMac.


Yes that will work, though I believe the throughput of the internal  
bus is faster than an external firewire drive.


I have not worked on an eMac but I did own a late G3 iMac and I  
believe both can be worked on without too much difficulty -  
certainly easier than a clamshell iBook.



If I'm no mistaken, most of Apple's consumer level products are  
(purposely) difficult to work on.


I had an graphite clamshell that still had the tiny 7GB HD and I  
decided to upgrade. I purchased a 60GB 7,200 rpm drive at Fry's but  
the hang-up was trying to find someone to install it.


I languished for nearly a year but then went back east for a vacation  
and mentioned to an old Mac guru friend the dilemma that I was in. He  
stated, "no problem," and took the machine overnight and we met for  
breakfast the next day.  The upgraded iBook really came alive with  
the fast drive!


BTW, the HD on those clamshells is about the first component they  
install at the factory and you can just guess what you hafta go  
through to replace one...


JT





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Re: Networkable USB print servers

2010-12-02 Thread Bruce Johnson


On Dec 1, 2010, at 6:52 PM, JoeTaxpayer  wrote:

> I have an HP OfficeJet.
> It's pluged into my G4 MDD. I turned on print sharing and all the
> computers in the house can see it.
> So I'll ask - what does a print server do different or more than my
> set up?

A print server doesn't require the host computer to be on all the time. It also 
let's you pit the printer wherever an Ethernet cable (max length around 100 
meters, IIRC)  will reach.

-- 
Bruce 

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