[h-cost] Re: Byssus
Marc, A photograph of an exhibit of Byssus (including the mollusk, filaments, and sleeves made from it) is reproduced on page 114 of Les Etoffes: Dictionnaire Historique by Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier B. Berthod,. 420 pages, 9 1/2 X 12 1/2 ISBN: 2859171754 (my copy is the 1994 edition but is recently reprinted as ISBN: 2859174184, something like 462 illustrations) There is also a short article with four references. All are quite old except for A propos d'une soierie fraçonnée dite bysus, C.I.E.T.A., 1983, n 57/58, pp. 50-56. As C.I.E.T.A. is the international authority on textiles, I would expect that this might be useful. If you wish, I will scan the image and text from Les Etoffes for you. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] waistcoat again
Hi. In The Art of Dress by Ashelford, i have found a fashionprint of a man wearing demi galla. He has lilc breeches and waistcoat, and a green jacket. These collours are equally dark. Demi Galla was unlike the full court dress only embroidered with a small edge. He is escorting a lady in full galla, so i guess it would be all right after all to make the waistcoat medium grey. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Pinna Wool-a whole dang article! (was Strange spinning question)
If this doesn't work for you *http://tinyurl.com/bpdfy* try googling on royal society tartar lamb (without the quotes). It should be the first hit on the list. Within that article is quite an explanation of the stuff... Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote: No it isn't. All I got was a website that wanted me to sign up. Where's the article? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cranach dress
Sighanother reminder of an article I have promised to write (for years!). The other type of pleats are typically called organ pipe pleats. There are a number of different ways to achieve the tapered tube look Sg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm unsure about the pleating. Some sites insist on cartridge pleating but not all the paintings look like cartridge pleats. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] An aside on links
Just an FYI -- free sites will usually allow linking, but may have security in place to discourage deep linking (linking to a page deep within a site). Sites that cost money generally have stuff in place to prohibit use of a link to someone who doesn't have the right IP address. I would need a proxy server set up to emulate whatever the host's site IP address is, and that usually requires an account with the IP host. For example, if I give you a link to a reference in the online OED, you would need to have an account with this university, or be able to emulate such an account, to use that link - even if you had your own account with the OED. The technology's not perfect ::) Marc, the ILL Librarian. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] waistcoat again
At 15:42 20/10/2005, you wrote: Hi. In The Art of Dress by Ashelford, i have found a fashionprint of a man wearing demi galla. He has lilc breeches and waistcoat, and a green jacket. These collours are equally dark. Demi Galla was unlike the full court dress only embroidered with a small edge. He is escorting a lady in full galla, so i guess it would be all right after all to make the waistcoat medium grey. Bjarne Is this fashion plate from Galerie des Modes1778-1787? If so, the original colour of the man's suit is a sort of dark apple green, all three pieces. with a blue lining to the coat. The date is 1779. It is described as gros de Naples and is embroidered with paillettes. He is on the right and the lady in court dress is on the left, wearing purple and carrying a small purse in her hand, collecting for charity according to the text. This may not be the same, but I cannot find my copy of the Ashelford book to compare. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Pinna Wool-a whole dang article! (was Strange spinning question)
The article is available online as part of an academic journal: Notes Records of the Royal Society [of London] The complete reference is: Notes Rec. R. Soc. Lond. 51 (1), 23–34 (1997) THE ROYAL SOCIETY AND THE TARTAR LAMB by JOHN H. APPLEBY It is not free to the general public; I was able to access it from university computers because apparently our library is subscribed to the online version of this journal. If anyone is particularly interested in this subject matter, you might try asking a local university library whether they have a subscription - you may be able to access it from their computers and print it off from there. Catrijn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Rickrack work
Does anyone know where I can get patterns or pattern booklets for rickrack work that does not involve knitting or crochet, just sewing the rickwork together in patterns? I've seen a few Victorian and Edwardian garments that used it (the Victorians tended to call it wavy braid) but not patterns that I can remember. I'm not looking for freebies, but if anyone has the title of an antique or modern book, booklet, or magazine I'll hunt it up and buy it. Thanks for any info. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] byssus
I didn't get that to turn up the gloves, but a search on mussel did. Also try Sir Hans Sloane...a collector of curiosities. I have to say, the gloves sure don't look particularly impressive but there isn't a good close up. Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Subject: [h-cost] RE: Archves (was Strange spinning question)-the gloves are online at the British Museum! To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed *http://tinyurl.com/cpvvu Well, if it is true, there they are! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Free pattern
Heh. Makes me feel less fat than curvy which makes me like them. On 10/20/05, Betsy Marshal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I like their sizing ranges- Slinky girl, glamour girl and curvy Girl!! B. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Organ pipe pleats
Has anyone on the list managed to find any examples of organ-pipe (rolled) pleating prior to the 18th century? I agree that many of the styles of 15th and 16th century clothing look like they use them, but for the life of me (and despite two trips to Europe), I haven't been able to find any diocumentation for them better than well, the paiting *looks* like that's they type of pleat they used... Any help would be appreciated - thanks! -Wendy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Byssus
From: Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] A photograph of an exhibit of Byssus (including the mollusk, filaments, and sleeves made from it) is reproduced on page 114 of Cool. Les Etoffes... I'll see if I can't find a copy, but thanks. I'd like a scan of the picture please, if that's ok.: A propos d'une soierie fraçonnée dite bysus, C.I.E.T.A., 1983, n 57/58, pp. 50-56. That shouldn't be too hard to dig up. Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] waistcoat again
At 19:30 20/10/2005, you wrote: Hi Suzi, No it is not Galleries des modes et costumes francais, but a fashion journal called Cahier de Costumes francaise. I must try to find out if this fashion journal is on the library of museum of fine arts, cause i have never noticed this one before. Quality of the print is equally as fine as the modes et costumes journal. I shall be interested to learn the results of your search. As you know, fashion plates were copied one magazine to another, and the descriptions sound similar. (I have a later plate (1798/9 that is a copy of a rare and famous Richard Phillips!) By the way, I love the idea of the rose and grey - following your research for my information too. Suzi In The Art of Dress by Ashelford, i have found a fashionprint of a man wearing demi galla. He has lilc breeches and waistcoat, and a green jacket. These collours are equally dark. Demi Galla was unlike the full court dress only embroidered with a small edge. He is escorting a lady in full galla, so i guess it would be all right after all to make the waistcoat medium grey. Bjarne Is this fashion plate from Galerie des Modes1778-1787? If so, the original colour of the man's suit is a sort of dark apple green, all three pieces. with a blue lining to the coat. The date is 1779. It is described as gros de Naples and is embroidered with paillettes. He is on the right and the lady in court dress is on the left, wearing purple and carrying a small purse in her hand, collecting for charity according to the text. This may not be the same, but I cannot find my copy of the Ashelford book to compare. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Organ pipe pleats
I'm not sure if you want organ pipe pleating or rolled pleats documentation, but if it is the former, the Metropolitan Museum of Art has a military base which is organ pipe pleated (Early 16th century). Blanche Paynes History of Costume has a discussion and a pattern for it. I've spent some time looking for an earlier word for them, but have not come up with it in English or German. The English word only goes back to to about 1890. The current German word Röhrenfalten doesn't appear in Grimm's etemological dictionary. I have queried both Leo online forums (back in March 05) and non-current German forum (just today): If you find anything, I'd sure like to hear about it. Sg Has anyone on the list managed to find any examples of organ-pipe (rolled)... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rickrack work
Does anyone know where I can get patterns or pattern booklets for rickrack
work that does not involve knitting or crochet, just sewing the rickwork
together in patterns? I've seen a few Victorian and Edwardian garments
that used it (the Victorians tended to call it wavy braid) but not
patterns that I can remember. I'm not looking for freebies, but if anyone
has the title of an antique or modern book, booklet, or magazine I'll hunt
it up and buy it.
All of what I've seen involves crochet. But I do own one printed sheet
from the Wright trim company, showing one how to make an early 1950s dress
entirely out of the stuff. You might ask them if they have a copy in their
archives (because I can't find mine).
BTW, I've always seen the stuff called wave braid, never wavy braid or
waved braid.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
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Re: [h-cost] Organ pipe pleats
http://costume.dm.net/pleats/ http://www.heatherspages.net/images/flemish/rolled%20pleats.jpg http://home.znet.com/savaskan/germans/images/gerry-5.jpg I'll have to poke around for my tutorial on rolled pleatsI know I took the pictures for it...but I don't see it on my website...could have sworn it was there. Organ Pipe Pleats and rolled pleats can look pretty much the same from the outside. How they are constructed makes the difference. I haven't seen anything online for how to make the former. I took a class at Estrella years ago from Julie Hirsch and have been promising for years to write up how to do it.guess I'd better get on it... Sg Kathryn Parke wrote: Would someone please be so kind as to provide a thumbnail description of either or both organ pipe pleating or rolled pleating, or post an informative link or two? I can't even begin to picture what this might be... Thanks! KP ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rickrack work
All of what I've seen involves crochet. But I do own one printed sheet from the Wright trim company, showing one how to make an early 1950s dress entirely out of the stuff. You might ask them if they have a copy in their archives (because I can't find mine). I'll look into it, although I'd rather have Victorian/Edwardian patterns. Big expanses of it sewn together in patterns can actually look really nice. BTW, I've always seen the stuff called wave braid, never wavy braid or waved braid. I've seen it called all three, as well as being classified under vaguer terms like fancy braid. Best, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rickrack work
All of what I've seen involves crochet. But I do own one printed sheet
from the Wright trim company, showing one how to make an early 1950s
dress entirely out of the stuff. You might ask them if they have a copy
in their archives (because I can't find mine).
I'll look into it, although I'd rather have Victorian/Edwardian
patterns. Big expanses of it sewn together in patterns can actually look
really nice.
BTW, I've always seen the stuff called wave braid, never wavy braid
or waved braid.
I've seen it called all three, as well as being classified under vaguer
terms like fancy braid.
Dover has a Home Art Crochet book in reprint, using wave braid and
crochet. You might look at that and try duplicating the work in
needle-lace stitches. I think crochet was the preferred method of
assembling these pieces, historically. And the screeches caused when
modern people realize they're looking at ric-rac is worth the effort ;)
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
\\\
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach dress
I'm unsure about the pleating. Some sites insist on cartridge pleating but not all the paintings look like cartridge pleats. I'm thinking the front piece (Top part) is held in place with hook eyes while the bottom is laced from side to side through concealed lacing rings. This is because I know people use the term cartridge pleat to mean a great variety of pleat types, not just narrow firm pleats that jut away from the body. I think it's used by some to describe pleats that are not sewn into a waistband or between the layers of fabric for the bodice (shell and lining.) http://www.kannikskorner.com/infostitches.htm http://www.vertetsable.com/research_vocabulary.htm Descriptiosn that are probably the truest of the term. http://www.sewmuchmoreinfo.com/Sewopaedia.html This is the only reference I can find that suggests the pleats are merely rounded rather than lying flat. So it all depends on who is using the term;) http://costume.dm.net/pleats/ I have used very deep pleats on two German skirts and I love the way the pleats hang to the ground. http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca The Anna Meyer dress and my 1570s Westfalen dress (still in progress.) For each top edge of the pleats seen 8 times the amount of fabric was used. This is really more suited to light weight fabrics though as it can get bulky. So I wouldn't want to use it on say a velvet or wool gown. In that regard the best bang for buck is to use a circular/gored pattern. The Bases Sg mentioned are basically a big circle. This means you have far less fabric at the waist to add bulk than you have at the hem, where you do want a lot of fabric. This is also the constuction of the Mary of Hungary gown;) http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/mary I was kindly sent photos that show the back of the gown, and you can see there is some ease at the back that causes the skirt to hang in folds from the waist. There are a few very definite examples of circular skirts as well: http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1540erzherzoginanna.htm http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/bilderkatalog/habsburger/abb10s.htm Both use sunray pleating, and indeed Anna's shows the direction of the grain of the fabric quite well. Now another question, many of the portraits have a bodice style that while still having the piece in front also have a high collar. Could you make a jacket without sleeves rather than making 2 dresses, one with the collar and one without? I have seen what looks like a capelet with a high collar that gives much the same effect. I think you may be referring to a gollar and a gollar style dress? It depends on what you want. I wouldn't make what is essentially a vest, as it'll be very much more bulky than a single bodice. A gollar is a wonderful acessory as well, it does make a difference to warmth and is nice and portable. And there are a variety of styles, dependant on time and place. And as regards the bands at the back, I still haven't seen any, but I have seen low necks filled in with hemden: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/frau/7003224.jpg I would really appreciate any clues about the artwork that shows bands at the back, I'd like to be able to see them. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/143 - Release Date: 19/10/2005 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fan
The really annoying part is that it's working on the other lists and on my livejournal perfectly fine. I'm wondering if it's an embedding issue. Gah. Anyhow ladies here's the ebay link. I don't post these because frankly half the time they chop in half and are annoying. http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1720-Ivory-Fan-of-Moses-the-Brazen-Serpent_W0QQitemZ8343479166QQcategoryZ20288QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Bice On 10/21/05, Kitty Felton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry, that snipped URL is either not in our records, or private, or spam-protected. Let's snip another URL. Jacqueline Johnson wrote: I thought I'd share this fan on ebay someone has. http://snipurl.com/irwfFrom the description: This unique fan is painted with gouache on paper and is in very good condition No tears and no repairs. The color is bright and the ivory sticks are very high quality. The guards are laminated with mother of pearl shell at the top and at the base. The sticks are carved to display a woven pattern when the fan is closed (see photo). We will ship ivory to overseas buyers who have a U.S. agent to clear the item for international shipping. . The leaf measures 16 1/2 inches across.Guard sticks are 10 1/4 inches. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fan
On 10/20/05, Jacqueline Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The really annoying part is that it's working on the other lists and on my livejournal perfectly fine. snip Bice Jacqueline Johnson wrote: I thought I'd share this fan on ebay someone has. http://snipurl.com/irwfFrom the description: snip It works if you take the From off the end of the link. :-) Andie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Rick Rack
At 06:03 21/10/2005, you wrote: Not historical, but fun http://www.costume-con.org/CClink/CC13/Photos/pages/ff06.shtml Sandy At 11:02 PM 10/20/2005, you wrote: Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 14:14:28 -0700 From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rickrack work Does anyone know where I can get patterns or pattern booklets for rickrack work that does not involve knitting or crochet, just sewing the rickwork together in patterns? I've seen a few Victorian and Edwardian garments that used it (the Victorians tended to call it wavy braid) but not patterns that I can remember. All of what I've seen involves crochet. But I do own one printed sheet from the Wright trim company, showing one how to make an early 1950s dress entirely out of the stuff. You might ask them if they have a copy in their archives (because I can't find mine). Could someone explain what ric-rac is? It doesn't seem to be what I understand. I have several cards of ric-rac braid I got in a sale, and would use it to sew on to a garment for decoration. It was a very popular trim in the mid 50's if I remember right - that's the 1950's! But ric-rac involving crochet is a total mystery to me. Yet another example of two countries separated by the same language? Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
