RE: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 10:18 23/11/2005, you wrote:

Is there anything out there about knitted garters? Italian preferably, but
English , French or German will do. If there is a reference out there ,
please let me know. There is a discussion on garters, knitted and otherwise
on another list...

Thanks,
Dame Catriona MacDuff



There is a garter, (don't remember the date) but I think it is made 
of wool fabric. It appears to be tied and to have a fringe made from 
the slashed edge of the fabric. I feel that it is actually displayed 
upside down, and would have been worn with the fringe hanging down, 
not sticking up, but that is a personal opinion. It would be 
difficult, though not impossible, to display it the other way up. But 
what do I know - I'm only the practical one who makes these things!!


Suzi


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread monica spence
Is there anything out there about knitted garters? Italian preferably, but
English , French or German will do. If there is a reference out there ,
please let me know. There is a discussion on garters, knitted and otherwise
on another list...

Thanks,
Dame Catriona MacDuff

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 1:13 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question


At 03:23 23/11/2005, you wrote:
I would *love* to know what the dates and assumed origins are (if
any) for the knit garments.  So far, the earliest I've heard
verified made in England (other than Monmouth caps which are
coarse-knit then felted/fulled) has been in the 1550s.

(I'm guessing that they're the youngest of the items in the display,
but... :-)


As far as I remember, the stocking foot is Italian mid 1500's, and
the child's knitted vest and mitten, not a set as I remember, are
1300's. (Dated from the context of the dig.) However, I will be
making proper notes next week and will pass them on.

Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] More Tudor Questions (next step - bodice)

2005-11-23 Thread michaela
 1. No farthingale - just a stiffened petticoat, a pleated undergown and
 a pleated overgown should give oomph enough

I didn't catch what dates you are looking at. The later styles are very
conical and often have skirts fitted smoothly over the front of the hooped
skirt. I had a look in my deleted emails, but I seem to have completely lost
the first post... sigh. If you are looking at later then hooped skirts are
the only thing that will give that shape (escept maybe layers and layers of
netting layers and layers and layers..). For earlier (Jane Seymore,
Margaret Tudor etc etc) then a supportive underskirt is probably better.

 2. No corset - bodice lined with canvas and I'm not going to bone it
 since I don't need THAT much support and the stiffened stomacher should
 provide the appropriate front line.

I would make sure you can add boning at a later date, simply because I know
from personal experience of not needing much support that I won't conform
to shape unless I do somehting more drastic;) I had a really good example at
the end of September when I wore my Victorian corset laced as close as it
can. My shape was suddenly ideal for the period (it lowered my waistline
considerably). Same with my effigy stays for my 1560 Spanish gown.

Is there anything in Corsets and Crinolines from this period? I was focused
post 1550 when I last looked at the book. And the Richard III society has
privy purse accounts from before 1510 (canvas is mentioned for
upperbodices.)

 3. Using a 2 kirtle setup - as in the Cecilia Heron picture, pinned
 stomacher on outermost gown as in the Jane Seymour

I have some nice close ups of two of the Jane Seymour portraits, and one of
a miniature to show the pins quite clearly.
http://glittersweet.com/1seymorebodice1.jpg
http://glittersweet.com/1seymorebodice2.jpg

http://glittersweet.com/2seymore1.jpg
http://glittersweet.com/2seymore2.jpg

http://glittersweet.com/holbainsmall.jpg
Lovely typo in his name.. sigh.


 I have two big quandaries right now.  The first is how should the
 undergown fasten?  Looking at the sketches of Cecilia Heron and the More
 family, the undergown is definitely NOT front-fastening.  Is side-lacing
 period-appropriate or would it be back-laced?  I'm trying to find images
 from earlier/later periods, even in other countries, particularly of
 lower-class dress but I'm having little success.

I'm pretty sure one of the vasquina y cuerpo baxo (skirt with bodice)
patterns in Alcega has the front and backs cut on the fold so that the only
way to fasten it is at the side seams, which are only slightly shifted to
the back. My book is buried in my sewing room with no chance of rescue
tonight.

 My second question is what pattern should I use for the skirt portion?
 I see skirts of just a few panels all the way to multiple gored pieces
 (like Alcega's farthingale or kirtle for a fat woman f.58a patterns).

Looking at the skirts in Alcega and Patterns of Fashion I'd use a gored
pattern with a wider back skirt section to allow for pleats at the back.
The rounder the waist is cut and the wider the side seam angles the more
flare you'll get. You are probably going to do well adapting Eleanora di
Toledo's skirt. It's got a nice drape without too much skirt flare. The
train can be cut shorter if needed.

michela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Marie Stewart
Dame Catriona... Hey there...

I don't know of any knitted garters.  I've looked at lots of
inventories and wills and not seen them mentioned.  Of course, that
doesn't mean that they don't exist, just that I haven't seen any in
about 7 years of historic knit research.  Have you tried over on the
historic knit list?  Those folks are a font of information.
Good luck in your search.  I'll keep an eye out and if I see any I'll
certainly post to HKnit, and try to remember to post here as well.
Please, if you find anything do share, I'd love to see an example of these.
Sincerely,
Mari / Bridgette

On 11/23/05, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Is there anything out there about knitted garters? Italian preferably, but
 English , French or German will do. If there is a reference out there ,
 please let me know. There is a discussion on garters, knitted and otherwise
 on another list...

 Thanks,
 Dame Catriona MacDuff


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Kate M Bunting
Since working all knit stitches is known as garter stitch, knitted garters must 
have been common at some period!

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23/11/2005 11:56 
Dame Catriona... Hey there...

I don't know of any knitted garters.  I've looked at lots of
inventories and wills and not seen them mentioned.  Of course, that
doesn't mean that they don't exist, just that I haven't seen any in
about 7 years of historic knit research.  Have you tried over on the
historic knit list?  Those folks are a font of information.
Good luck in your search.  I'll keep an eye out and if I see any I'll
certainly post to HKnit, and try to remember to post here as well.
Please, if you find anything do share, I'd love to see an example of these.
Sincerely,
Mari / Bridgette

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Marie Stewart
On 11/23/05, Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Since working all knit stitches is known as garter stitch, knitted garters 
 must have been common at some period!


Hey Kate -
It is indeed possible.  Most of my research is in the pre-1600 time
frame, so that is the only area on which I can comment.  I only said I
hadn't seen any, not that they didn't exist.  :  I would be very
interested to learn when they were common.  And please - if you know
of anything, or find anything do share.  I would very much like to
learn more.
Thanks,
Mari / Bridgette

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Ynes Garcia

Kate M Bunting wrote:


Since working all knit stitches is known as garter stitch, knitted garters must 
have been common at some period!

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
 



My theory on that is that garter stitch refers to a chunk of stitching 
that's above the garter and keeps the stocking from falling through 
better than a rolling edge does.  And a small section of garter stitch 
at the top of the stocking does do this very well.


This is only a theory and is based entirely on the fact that it works 
and not on historical evidence.


- Ynes
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Re: [h-cost] New Medieval Gallery at the Museum of London

2005-11-23 Thread Alex Doyle
That's interesting, since in June of this year I was at the Museum of London 
and took many pictures while there and no one said anything.  I don't know that 
there was a change in policy or they were being lax in enforcing it.  I 
certainly wasn't hiding that I was taking photos.
 
alex

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello,

The last time I was at the MoL, you are not allowed to take photos 
unless you have express permission from the curatorial staff and have 
signed the appropriate waivers. This is a fairly new policy that had 
been instituted while they were doing all that work in the museum a 
year or two ago. One of the curators told me their main reason was 
to gain copyright control over the spread of the images and the 
quality of the images being passed around. Too many people were 
taking pictures on their trips there and slapping them on their 
websites, or even publishing them, without consulting the museum so 
to put a stop to this, they stopped allowing general photography.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:02 AM 11/22/2005, you wrote:
At 13:50 22/11/2005, you wrote:
Do you have an approximate date for the stocking? and if pre-1600, 
can I beg photos?

Please?

pretty please!

alex

Suzi Clarke wrote:

Oh, and the best thing was a black silk knitted stocking foot,
probably Italian.

As the last date in the gallery is 1558, I guess it must be early to 
mid 1500's - I can take the date off the label next time I go, and 
will try to take photos if allowed - should not be a problem as far as I know.

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Workingwomen -Black Partlets -a question

2005-11-23 Thread WickedFrau
I have made several of these in both black and white.  I line the black 
wool ones in black linen and the white ones with self fabric.  I am 
trying to remember where I saw it, but there is a painting/drawing of a 
woman with a black partlet and red lining.  It might have been a 
Breughel, but most of those collars aren't like this...my brain 
remembers that it was an allegorical painting of woman riding a horse or 
something??  Maybe when the rest of me wakes up I will be able to put my 
finger on it.


Oh and if any of you decide to make the pointy Breughel ones, I know 
where to get the reproduction dresshooks. :)


Sg
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Re: [h-cost] New Medieval Gallery at the Museum of London

2005-11-23 Thread Sue Clemenger
They also weren't allowing photography in 2002, when I went over there, and
then later that year, apparently they were.  The policy seems to change
often, which I guess, for us, means hope for the best and plan as best as
you can (getting permission, etc.).
--Sue, who remembers some guy being dumb enough to try it while she was
there, and he was using a flash on his camera, and boy, did that bring the
security guards.

- Original Message -
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Medieval Gallery at the Museum of London


 Hello,

 The last time I was at the MoL, you are not allowed to take photos
 unless you have express permission from the curatorial staff and have
 signed the appropriate waivers.  This is a fairly new policy that had
 been instituted while they were doing all that work in the museum a
 year or two ago.  One of the curators told me their main reason was
 to gain copyright control over the spread of the images and the
 quality of the images being passed around.  Too many people were
 taking pictures on their trips there and slapping them on their
 websites, or even publishing them, without consulting the museum so
 to put a stop to this, they stopped allowing general photography.

 Cheers,
 Danielle


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question

2005-11-23 Thread Sue Clemenger
We've discussed it over there, as well.  Despite the (current) knitting
nomenclature including the phrase garter stitch, I don't recall anyone on
the h-knit list coming up with examples of actual garters made from that
stitch (or other knitting).  At least, certainly not pre-17th century
European.
--Sue

- Original Message -
From: Marie Stewart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 4:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question


 Dame Catriona... Hey there...

 I don't know of any knitted garters.  I've looked at lots of
 inventories and wills and not seen them mentioned.  Of course, that
 doesn't mean that they don't exist, just that I haven't seen any in
 about 7 years of historic knit research.  Have you tried over on the
 historic knit list?  Those folks are a font of information.
 Good luck in your search.  I'll keep an eye out and if I see any I'll
 certainly post to HKnit, and try to remember to post here as well.
 Please, if you find anything do share, I'd love to see an example of
these.
 Sincerely,
 Mari / Bridgette


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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread ruthanneb
Bjarne, I'm with you on this basically. It seems to me that the music, or the 
words (in the case of a play), should be seen as part of a whole world being 
created, and that world also includes what the eye sees--costumes, set, even 
the actor's gestures. Once in a while a production comes along where the beauty 
of the language or the music or something in the theme is highlighted by, or 
given a new focus by, costumes or setting from another time, or from no time 
at all (that is, maybe black slacks and sweaters on all the actors, set made of 
movable cubes, etc.)--but most of the time when the production designer or 
director changes the time period of the set and costumes, the music or language 
sounds odd or the audience is confused or distracted by the changes.

I blame a few things. 
--First of all, it's hard to raise money to do a production if all you're 
planning to do is the show as written. Every time I get ready to direct a 
Shakespeare play, people ask me What's your concept? and they mean, how are 
you going to change things to make this different and new? Investors probably 
are more eager for that than the general public.
--Second, some directors don't consider it very creative to just do the show 
as it was originally conceived by the playwright or composer. They want to make 
their mark on it.
--Third, unfortunately, there's a lot of condescension on the part of the art 
community toward the general public. A British actor was in residence at 
Williams College here a few years ago and directed a production of Richard 
Brinsley Sheridan's The Rivals (1775). I went because I had just done a 
production of that myself and was curious as to how ours would measure up. 
Well, I HATED his production--it was camped up, a broad sex scene was put in, 
a lot of slapstick and sight gags were added. The audience did laugh a lot, but 
I and the actors who had come along with me were very disappointed. The show 
itself is very very funny--it doesn't need all that low comedy thrown in. When 
I got home I looked at the program and noticed that he had given a talk there 
at the theater one day, called Adapting The Rivals for the Modern Audience. 
So you see he obviously believed that a modern audience wouldn't get The 
Rivals as originally conceived. But I can tell you that the audiences!
  that came to see MY The Rivals laughed and laughed and said the play was 
wonderful. They didn't need to be condescended to.

Well, I do think that experimenting is a healthy thing in art. But I also think 
people have to keep in mind what they're doing it for, and also remember that 
the piece they're working with has been around for a long time without their 
interference.

What a shame that such a rare opportunity to see a Monteverdi opera wasn't used 
to show the audience what the original experience was really like. This isn't 
to say that older works of art should be treated like museum pieces, but just 
that they should be respected in themselves, and audiences should be respected 
enough to be trusted with them.

Well, that's my opinionated opinion, anyway!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 23, 2005 3:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

Hi the list.
I went to an opera with the oldest opera ever performed, Monteverdis 
Olysses.
Music and orchestra was very impressive but the costumes!
I would like to ask you who might makes costumes for stage, why does it have 
to be modern and artistic?
I have the feeling it is an intempt to try to drag more people to come to 
theaters, that they make the costumes modern and artistic.
I am totally disagreable in this, i hate the very guts of those stupid, and 
tedious scenografers, who destroys my want to go and have a fantastic time, 
i was so disapointed and i could just as well have gone to a cd shop and buy 
the opera, and stay home.
What are your oppinons about this, why in heavens name dont they make period 
costumes, what is wrong with this, and would the modern audiense hate this?

Bjarne...

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 11/23/2005 3:05:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What are  your opinions about this, why in heavens name don't they make 
period  
costumes



 
Well, it depends on the production. The concept, if not period, need not  
have period costumes. And I assure you the original  17th century  production 
of 
this Greek myth didn't have period Greek costumes. Or did you mean  Baroque 
costumestheir modern version of what they thought the costumes  should 
look like in the 17th century?
 
You see the problem here.
 
I love Monteverdi! My favorite production of L'Orfeo [which is  actually 
older than Il ritorno d'Ulisse in patria] that is  on film is Jean-Pierre 
Ponnelle's late 1970's production. It is Baroque  with the gods and goddesses 
dressed in court costume with farthingales and stiff  wired collarsbut with 
bits of allegorical stufflike the words La  Musica in the spirit of 
music's 
hair. Charon looks like a Baroque grotesque off  some architectural element. 
The shepherds look like a dream from a Milton  poem. Ponnelle did all 3 of the 
big Monteverdi operas [the 3rd one being  L'incoronazione di Poppea]  in this 
Baroque style. Alas, none of  them are on DVD to my knowledge.
 
On DVD is another version of LOrfeo dressed in ancient Greek  
clothingsorta. It still has ample Baroque elements...especially in the  
scenery. Great 
singing too! It's on BBC Opus/Arte with Le Concert des Nations  and La Capella 
Reial de Catalunya doing the music.
 
There's also a great Ulisse with Samuel Ramey singing the title role on  
DVDbut I don't have that one.
 
 
Anyway... if the production calls for period costumes, then they should  have 
them. If the concept is not to make it look periodthe costumes will not  
be period. The costumes must serve the vision of the director's concept.
[My biggest problem with much costuming is, it's just bad... modern or  
period. Costuming gets no respect in America. They'll hire the Producer's niece 
 to 
do the clothes because she needs a summer job!]
 
 
There is a great GREAT version of an opera, Les Indes Gallantes  [1735] by 
French baroque composer Rameau on DVD that is fantastic! I love  it. It has 
great respect for Baroque traditions but is completely modern. And a  lark. It 
is light entertainment and the costumes are a hootthough not  truly 
periodstill their roots are evident. They are costumes all  the way, but 
work so 
well with the concept of the show. There are lots of  Baroque stage effects in 
it: A storm at sea, a volcano eruptingit's great  fun! The last act takes 
place among American Indians! Of course the music  is divine! Also on BBC 
Opus/Arte.
 
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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread JAMES OGILVIE
why in heavens name dont they make period 
costumes, what is wrong with this, and would the modern audiense hate this?

I think frequently they do modern sets and costumes because it's cheaper.

Janet
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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 11/23/2005 4:11:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I think  frequently they do modern sets and costumes because it's  cheaper


Not always...especially with big-wig companies. 
 
It's more to do with making it relevant to modern audiences. It's why we  
have films like Clueless ...or Great Expectations in modern times.
Even War of the Worlds should take place in 1898.
 
Sometimes it works and sometimes it's misguided. I don't think is a  
necessity, that's for sure. 
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[h-cost] OT - Pin Cushion

2005-11-23 Thread roscelinlimoges
I'm wanting to make a decorative pin cushion for a Christmas gift., but not 
sure what to fill it with.  Does anyone have any suggestions besides sand or 
fiberfill?

Roscelin
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Re: [h-cost] OT - Pin Cushion

2005-11-23 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 01:19 PM 11/23/2005, you wrote:
I'm wanting to make a decorative pin cushion for a Christmas gift., 
but not sure what to fill it with.  Does anyone have any suggestions 
besides sand or fiberfill?


Roscelin


I'd recommend wool.  If you can get some fleece with some lanolin 
left in, it helps prevent rust.



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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[h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume

2005-11-23 Thread Karen R Bergquist
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/magazine/20style_90s.html#articleBodyLi
nk
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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread Elizabeth Young

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
In a message dated 11/23/2005 4:11:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I think  frequently they do modern sets and costumes because it's  cheaper


Not always...especially with big-wig companies. 
 
It's more to do with making it relevant to modern audiences. It's why we  
have films like Clueless ...or Great Expectations in modern times.

Even War of the Worlds should take place in 1898.
 
Sometimes it works and sometimes it's misguided. I don't think is a  
necessity, that's for sure. 


I saw Henry V at Stratford festival in Ontario, Canada many years ago 
that was done up in Edwardian. I was initally irritated, but then I got 
into it and it is now one of my favorite theatre memories.


liz young

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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread stilskin
Mmm, I'm always impressed by McKellen's Richard III set in a 1930s dictatorship,

-C.


 That's a very strange notion to take a HISTORY and put it in ANOTHER  PERIOD.




This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] More Tudor Questions (next step - bodice)

2005-11-23 Thread Elinor Salter

Kimiko Small wrote:


At 09:08 PM 11/22/2005, you wrote:

 have two big quandaries right now.  The first is how should the 
undergown fasten?  Looking at the sketches of Cecilia Heron and the 
More family, the undergown is definitely NOT front-fastening.  Is 
side-lacing period-appropriate or would it be back-laced?  I'm trying 
to find images from earlier/later periods, even in other countries, 
particularly of lower-class dress but I'm having little success.


My second question is what pattern should I use for the skirt portion?
I see skirts of just a few panels all the way to multiple gored 
pieces (like Alcega's farthingale or kirtle for a fat woman f.58a 
patterns).  I want to take an authentic bent so I've been scouring 
portraits but I just can't tell and I need to figure this out NOW so 
I can purchase fabric, hopefully this weekend.  I do remember one 
earlier portrait (from Spain?) showing a tapestry fabric kirtle 
pieced as in an Alcega gored pattern.  And what proportions should I 
do it in?  Do I just figure out an appropriate circumferance for the 
hem and take up the rest in pleating?  I'm a little leery of doing 
that since I have 50 of waist to deal with and I need plenty of 
fabric to pleat at the back as in the style of the Holbein back view 
sketch.


Some quick thoughts.

http://costume.dm.net/fabuse.html is a website that details amounts of 
fabrics used for 16th c. women's clothes. I just happened to be 
reading it as your question came over the list. It might help you.


On the kirtle (undergown) and how it fastens, that's something I am 
trying to determine as well. The Cunningtons in _Handbook of English 
Costume in the 16th Century_ mentions Fastened down the front to 
waist invisibly, probably by hooks and eyes. Occasionally buttoned or 
laced. They also mention stomachers (1516/1517) and placards (1547) 
that are suitably vague enough to maybe covering the actual fasteners 
under the gown. Most images I have seen are not detailed enough to 
know for sure what was done under the gown.


As to the amount of fabric for the skirt to pleat in the back, if you 
have even two panels of 45 material, you will have more than plenty 
to pleat at the back in that style. I really wouldn't go with more 
fabric, and may even consider doing less. It might be something you 
might want to drape onto a form and see what gives you the right look.


Kimiko


I wish that the website could help, but not a lot of women back then 
were ever my size, at least not any pictured (which is why I like Lady 
Guildford's portrait - she's plump and she's only a little younger than 
I am - 27).  That's why I was really interested to see the Alcega layout 
for a fat woman.


Here's what I've found so far for depictions of fastening:

Front of overgown tied shut, no depiction of undergown fastening, but is 
not front-fastened

Elizabeth Dauncey, 1526-8, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg
Cecilia Heron, 1527, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg
Margaret Grigg, 1527, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg
More Family, 1527, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/morefamily.jpg
More Family, 1593 copy, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg

Front of overgown widely laced shut, no depiction of undergown 
fastening, but is not front-fastened

Catherine of Aragon, 1509, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/aragon.jpg
More Family, 1530 copy, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/lockley.jpg
Anne Boleyn?, ?, http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Boleyn,Anne03.jpg

Overgown with placard/stomacher, probably covering up front-tying, 
probably attached with pins

Jane Seymour, 1537, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg
Mrs. Pemberton, 1540, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/pemberton.jpg

Front of overgown closely front-fastened, not laced, probably 
hook-and-eye (see Margaret)

Elizabeth Broughton, 1525, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/trivick04.jpg
Wife of Thomas Pownder, 1525, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/norris01.jpg
Lady with a Squirrel, 1527-28, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holbsq.jpg
Elizabeth Payne, 1528, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/trivick03.jpg
Portrait of a Woman, 1532-35, 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/1532woman.jpg
Margaret Marchioness of Dorset, 1541, 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
(possibly) Princess Mary, 1544, 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/prinmary2.jpg


No visible means of closing gown
Woman and her children, ?, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb-fam.jpg
Lady Henegham, ?, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/henegham.jpg
Mary Tudor, 1514-15, 
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Tudor,Marysketch.jpg

Mary Tudor, 1515, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg
Unknown Woman (was Margaret Tudor), 1520, 
http://www.npg.org.uk/live/OC_Data/images/weblg/0/2/mw04202.jpg

Catherine of Aragon, 1525, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg
Anne Boleyn, 1525-27, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/boleyn1525.jpg
Anne Cresacre,