[h-cost] Re:(h-cost) hatmaking
Dawn, What kind of hatmaking are you interested in? Do you want to do buckram, felt or straw? Are you looking at flat pattern construction in buckram or pulling on blocks? I have been a professional milliner for 16 years working for Disney and for 10 years at The Pageant of the Masters in Laguna Beach. >From the Neck Up, as others have mentioned, is considered the best reference, but there are other choices based on your area of interest. Millinery requires patience and practice. Lots of both. If I can answer any specific questions, please let me know. Mary LaVenture ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
> How odd, this post was sent two - three days ago way before another person > had said anything about the possibility of it being stumpwork and now it > shows up. > Anyway, I have seen something like this partlet but for the life of me I > can't seem to remember where or what kind of technique it is. I have a > feeling that I have seen the technique done by a long past relative but not > sure. There is a pair of sleeves cut from late 17thC fabric that is decorated and has a very similar texture. A close up is seen in Historical Fashion in Detail.. or Historic Fashion in Detail.. I can never remember. Also the sleeves are seen in a catalogue from the Ehizabeth I exhibition at the National Maritime Museum (UK.) Fat cord is covered in the came colour silk as the ground and sewn down with stitches in the same silk. The stitches seem to rest in the grooves of the cording underneath so you get the same texture as the cording. There are bugle beads sewn down and tufts all worked with the same silk as well. I think this is going tobe the closest technique for the partlet. In regards to the recent bugginess. I have requently in the last few months had posts arrive out of order. Not just on this list either. michaela http://costumes.glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.15/223 - Release Date: 6/01/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear/late or missing messages
I think the system is hiccupping. I just got one of my posts that I had sent days ago. De -Original Message- Is it just me, or are others missing posts. I didn't get Kathy's original on this topic, and would have like to read it. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
How odd, this post was sent two - three days ago way before another person had said anything about the possibility of it being stumpwork and now it shows up. Anyway, I have seen something like this partlet but for the life of me I can't seem to remember where or what kind of technique it is. I have a feeling that I have seen the technique done by a long past relative but not sure. De -Original Message- Could it be stump work? De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] photo-decorated dress
I have now seen two photographs of dresses from, I'd say, the early- to
mid- 1890s, each decorated with photographs. The first photo I saw was
published in _American Album_ (SBN-01892-3-395), a paperback 1968
compilation of photographs by American Heritage. This photo is at the
bottom of page 9, and the wearer is standing next to a camera on a tripod
which bears a sign saying "Felfer the Artist". The owner of the second
photo asked a friend of mine, both of whom wonder why the wearer did it,
and my friend asked me to post here about it.
My guess is that both dresses have to do with the wearer being a
photographer's assistant. My friend guesses that their photo might be of a
girl in a graduation dress, as the subject looks to be about the age of a
high-school senior. Any other opinions?
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
\\\
-@@\\\
7 )))
((( <>
) ((
/\ /---\))
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
Could it be stump work? De -Original Message- I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet and head dress is made. I'm thinking it's some kind of applied cording, but am not quite sure. Thanks! Althea ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
Wow! I'm speachless! Kelly "Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears" Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 12:08:45 +0100 Hi, As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in use. I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta. I have finished the ground embroidery and have started with the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk. I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has the same flower mirrored 1 time. Its the latest at the bottom: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the way... So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. Kathy Textiles (weaves, weights, threads and fibers) are what I'd really like to know as well. Mazzaoui documents cotton being used in undergarments by this time, so linen cannot be assumed. Drewl, drewl Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
Kate Dharma (www.dharmatrading.com) has some really nice fabric paints that I have successfully used on some nylon lycra content fabrics. Nothing quite so stretchy as what you're undertaking, but they (the paints) were very washable and were all water-soluble) I was creating a jumpsuit for the Pharoah in "Joseph...Dreamcoat" and utilized stamps to press on my designs in the paint. You might be able to stamp on your animal print. The stamp remains on the surface, giving good color, yet leaving the fabric stretchy underneath since not completely saturated through. -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)? Fur outlets on the net: http://www.fauxpawfurs.com/; http://www.furoutlet.com/ > -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards? I usually cut the fur from underneath to avoid the "shedding" problem. It can be sewn that way as well. However, given the show and the kind of fur you will want, I would consider utilizing the new chenille yarns that are available. I recently used them on a dance costume to create a shattered look, and they would probably read as fur if you used the right quantity. The yarn would be easily attached, either by hand or with zig zag stitching. If I were doing the project, I would probably attach the yarn to a loose sweater knit and create my own version of long haired fur. Perhaps even a combo of both, with the yarn providing some length sewn into the fur patches would work. The fur I have found available is all somewhat stiff and does not lend itself to being sewn onto a dance leotard without limiting some of the flexibility a leotard is intended to provide. -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them. Ideas for painting to retain the velour feel? Again, I had success with stamping. You might even use a large piece of sponge to apply the paint to the surface of the fabric. Best of luck angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes Theatrical Costume Design "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..." All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram W. Shakespeare http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: costume gallery
Penny: Thanks for sharing all your thoughts about how and why you do so much to your materials. I know what you mean about pages in Acrobat -- they can be a real bear to read, and personally I never touch anything on a website that has to be read in Acrobat, if I can possibly help it. But I do have a question about the work you do to the images, one that I thought others on the list might be interested in also. I wouldn't call what you do "restoring" the images, but "retouching" or even "redoing" the images. The example your web site shows, for instance, explains quite clearly that the *originals* were poorly colored. So changing the color is not restoring, it's redoing. Redoing is a fine goal, but it's a completely different goal. I wondered why you chose to do this in what is in many ways a scholorly venue, where many users (I would think) would be interested in seeing the originals. Or are most of your users not particularly interested in that? I don't mean any criticism of your amazing accomplishment! I am just curious. Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Italian Underwear
I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the way... This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator, knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair of stockings and a pair of chopines. Although I don't have pics of everything I am viewing that day, these are what I can find: http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam1.htm http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Drawers.JPG http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/ItalianDrawersQEWUMed.jpg http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/eustn/hod_1973.114.4a%2Cb.htm These items have been variously pictured in books like Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, History of Underclothes, and two of the items will be in the upcoming posthumous Arnold Shirts book - however if my guess is right, they won't deal with actual colours of the embroidery, but most likely will have brilliant drawings of it. So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. I have all kinds of supplies and equipment allowed to me as long as it is non-destructive, which means as long as I don't use a flash, cameras are allowed. I will be bringing along with me a linen tester, magnifying glass, a DMC floss chart for the polychrome embroideries, measuring equipment, drawing supplies, cotton gloves and of course my camera. Adele and I will be measuring everything initially in mm but will translate that to imperial while processing our data so that it is universally readable. Anyone else out there have burning questions you'd like answered about these garments? Kathy ItÂ’s never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: Japan Vakation question
I have tried but I don't get any results Cin wrote: I have posted answers to all of these questions. Please check the h-cost archives for Bunka Gakuin, Omotesando, Okadaya, Hanazono, Oeno Park and the Kyoto Museum of Costume. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Japan Vakation question To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi, Does anyone kow more about interesting sites to visit in Japan? We would like to go somewhere in april/mei. I know you can make an appointment to see part of the digitial collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/coll-e.html This sounds quite interesting. I have the fashion book of the institute. Has anyone has any experience with their digital collection? Is it hard to get permission? The Japanese costume Museum sounds interesting too. Things I am most interested in are Historical costumes, Fabric stores, Gothic Lolita clothing. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
Well, I may not order much from it as I am across the pond, but it sure looks nice...I can window shop! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: Japan Vakation question
I have posted answers to all of these questions. Please check the h-cost archives for Bunka Gakuin, Omotesando, Okadaya, Hanazono, Oeno Park and the Kyoto Museum of Costume. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Japan Vakation question To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi, Does anyone kow more about interesting sites to visit in Japan? We would like to go somewhere in april/mei. I know you can make an appointment to see part of the digitial collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/coll-e.html This sounds quite interesting. I have the fashion book of the institute. Has anyone has any experience with their digital collection? Is it hard to get permission? The Japanese costume Museum sounds interesting too. Things I am most interested in are Historical costumes, Fabric stores, Gothic Lolita clothing. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I have the Interview with Vampire movie and can help....was movie source..
Try looking at some of the other dresses in the shots. I found some that were called ball-gowns for that period. Just different colors. - Original Message - From: "WickedFrau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Suzi Clarke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 6:36 PM Subject: [h-cost] I have the Interview with Vampire movie and can helpwas movie source.. Suzi, if you can't readily come up with a copy, I have the movie and can capture shots of the gown for you and send them to you. Saragrace Suzi Clarke wrote: I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source please? (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy the movie, but I'd rather not!! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
I like Jacquard products http://www.jacquardproducts.com/ , although I've never tried to use them with fur. Their Neopaque line has great coverage and the Luminere line is good for glitzy effects. I think all of them become permanent with heat-setting. Janet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
If grad school we used a algae based pigment to make paints to paint on canvas and any other fabric. The mix was mixed up to look like pearly soap then the pigment was added. The color was heat set and permenant when completely dry. Completely laundry friendly once heat set. Check your local fabric store. I know that Walmart has a wide variety of long furry materials, and by the yard at regular width. I saw various colors and definetely "cat" colors and patterns. If you don't find the exact pattern or need slight variations on one pattern, the fur can be painted with acrylic paint, but it will need to be very watered down. Blow dry to make it really permenant. I learned that when my daughter painted on some of her stuffed animals. I don't know if dye will work but I guess that would be according to the fiber content. Attaching it to lycra or stretchable fabrics is usually done with fabric glue in a bottle. In certain areas that have more stretch, you might want to place velcro dots and attach fur after the person has the costume on. Otherwise the lycra will get small and the fur stay large. Most of the fur fabrics do not stretch more thatn a tiny bit. How it affects the stretch is determined by where it is on the dancer/performer. Note of fur: BEFORE you dut the fur, seal the edges with FrawCheck. (or super glue). Be prepared with a hand vac or lint brush. That furry hairy stuff makes quite a mess when cut. It'll get on your face and make you sneeze. Loose little bits can be picked up with the sticky side of duct tape, too. I do just about all of this to keep the flying fur (sorry about that) to a minimum. Remove all fur before drying. DO NOT PUT FAUZ FUR in a dryer. It melts the fur into little stiff puffs. Brushing it out does not remove the damage or return it to the orginial condition. I now air dry all fauz fabrics and puff with low heat dryer. I use a dog brush to brush the fur into shape. I make toys and dolls. This is one of the things I learned when I just threw the toy into my dryer then I wondered why it looked so funny. I realized that I melted the fur. Leo the Lion still doesn't look right. - Original Message - From: "Kate Pinner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Historical Costume'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur I'm doing a production of "CATS" and need some advice. - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?) I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little tubes. My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need to be washed at some point. Any better ideas? -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards? -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)? -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them. Ideas for painting to retain the velour feel? Any help would be appreciated! Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday gifts
Behind the power curve as normal for me. I want to thank Gia Gavino for her lovely Holiday Gift. I got a lovely piece of wide lace, some chiffon with a woven spot pattern, and very nice roll of gold and white trim. My wife is thinking partlet on her new Italian, I am thinking very fancy ruff for ME. Stephen - Who is never moving during the Holidays AGAIN! Lavolta Press wrote: Are we not going to have the traditional discussion of what costume-related gifts everyone got? Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
I'm doing a production of "CATS" and need some advice. - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?) I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little tubes. My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need to be washed at some point. Any better ideas? -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards? -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)? -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them. Ideas for painting to retain the velour feel? Any help would be appreciated! Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear/late or missing messages
At 16:08 06/01/2006, you wrote: I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the way... So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. Kathy = OHMYGOD! I am green with envy :). Any color pics would be great, references for colors will be fantastic. Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in scale would also be very much appreciated. How about pics of the reverse side as well? And best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used? Close-ups of the construction seams and how they are stitched would also be good. Enjoy the 'high' and thanks for being willing to share :). Is it just me, or are others missing posts. I didn't get Kathy's original on this topic, and would have like to read it. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
Suzi, Try this site www.costumersguide.com Click on the Research link and Interview with a Vampire is one of the movies listed. There are sevral shots of the blue and the green gowns. Enjoy! Wendi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
Suzi, Try this site www.costumersguide.com Click on the Research link and Interview with a Vampire is one of the movies listed. There are sevral shots of the blue and the green gowns. Enjoy! Wendi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the way... So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. Kathy = OHMYGOD! I am green with envy :). Any color pics would be great, references for colors will be fantastic. Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in scale would also be very much appreciated. How about pics of the reverse side as well? And best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used? Close-ups of the construction seams and how they are stitched would also be good. Enjoy the 'high' and thanks for being willing to share :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
OMG ... that is just beyond words. Your talent never ceases to amaze me Bjarne. Chiara On Fri, January 6, 2006 5:08 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said: > Hi, > As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it > in use. > I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap > that > closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta. I have finished > the ground > embroidery and have started with > the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves > and a > calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with > Eterna > Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire > embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 > greens, and > then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with > silk. > I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole > motif has > the same flower mirrored 1 time. > Its the latest at the bottom: > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm > Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the > grey > waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a > white > watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work. > > Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] FAQs Library
Jumping back online for a little while... I am determined to get things organized around my house and in my office before being on the computer very much. My office has gifts all over the floor for our subscribers who won a contest. In the middle of all that, is a sewing machine I bought yesterday... still in the box! Because I am running behind, I am extending the free access to the Library until Monday at 12 am. Many, many thanks to the people who sent me congrads... I will get back to writing you personally. I hope everyone is enjoying the free access to the Library. For those who are familiar with our policies and why we have them, you can skip to near the end of this message for an update on recent purchases of books, etc. for the Library. For those not familiar with our websites, here's the answers to your questions. An explanation about the rules for the Library and why we charge for access: We do not allow people to download our images to their computers because of the vast amount of time spent restoring the images...also, all the money spent purchasing the originals. Where we differ from a lot of websites is the amount of time we spend restoring our images. You can take a look at http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html to see the process we use for the restoration. Every image on our site goes through this process. We do not simply scan our images and put them online. Another reason for the limitations is the amount of money to purchase these collections. We can't do all this work and not be paid. I have well over $10,000 dollars in publications in my office waiting to go online. Over the years, I have purchased almost the entire decades of publications like Delineator, Ladies Home Journal, lots of Peterson's yearbooks, etiquette books, hairdressing manuals, photo collections, etc... we have teams of people who type the site's contents, others who clean images, and 2-3 webpage designers. The work everyone does is very detailed and time consuming. Then add on the cost of the webspace... which is a LOT per month because for 9-10,000 webpages and over 35,000 images. It took a long time to find a web host who could support the sheer volume of traffic the sites receive, averaging over 500,000 unique visitors per month, and the large amount of content of the websites. On top of that, this is my full time job... not a hobby. I work every night of the week. Those who know me, know I go to bed at 6 am. LOL! Plus, monthly, the student loan people remind me how much three decades of going to college cost. A question frequently asked Why don't you just scan the pages and put them in Acrobat? First off, I really dislike the Acrobat software. We spend all this time on the images and text because we believe that the material should be presented in a manner that is easily to read, laid-out format that is pleasing to the eye, and organized. A lot of 19th Century publications aren't formatted in the reader friendly manner. Sometimes the fashion plates were painted the wrong color or the painter missed all the details. This is so common of the pre-1890 fashion plates. Sometimes the descriptions were even mixed up with another one in the issue. We hand-type instead of using a text reading software, because these programs are not 100% accurate. They may be good for a present day text but not very inaccurate for old text on aged paper. Every little speck on a page is picked up by these programs as a character. This causes more time editing. When we do our final edits we may break a very lengthy paragraph to make it easier to read. Sometimes in ( ) I give a brief explanation of a term. Example: waist (bodice) or waist (waistline) OR girdle (sash or belt) not a 1950s foundation garment. Copying rule I do not allow people to make more than one copy of a webpage and then to go to a class/workshop and make copies for their friends. Or broadcast the text across email. Or worse yet, put the work on a website and claim it as their own. The last thing has not happened to me, but I do know other webmasters that this have had this upsetting experience. The only exceptions are for groups that purchase a group subscription, such as a school or organization. We also do not allow people to copy and paste our content. This is mainly because students like to go to sites, like mine, and copy and paste our work into their term papers, then claim it is their own work. The no copy/paste rule cuts down on time talking with their teachers about where their students got the information. That's why you see copyrights all over our sites. We have worked on security for years for the sites. A student can't say they weren't warned. We are always trying to stay one step ahead. Some of our collections are not listed in the books on the Library's frontpage. I am waiting to compile more articles in certain subject
Re: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
It is so beautifull! I never thought of making 3d embroidery but it looks so lovely! The hardshaped piece with roses is very nice too. It makes my hand itch to try to make something as nice as your pieces. Your a huge inspiration! Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in use. I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta. I have finished the ground embroidery and have started with the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk. I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has the same flower mirrored 1 time. Its the latest at the bottom: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dimentional embroidery
Hi, As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in use. I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta. I have finished the ground embroidery and have started with the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk. I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has the same flower mirrored 1 time. Its the latest at the bottom: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
