[h-cost] Kent State exhibit
I saw the current exhibit at Kent State University, The Age of Nudity, on Sunday. It is very well done, and I recommend it for anyone interested in late 18th and early 19th century costume. There is also a retrospective of Oscar de la Renta's work. Well worth a visit. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: OT - +size swimwear
Dear Rhonda, Very kind of you to offer; however, a friend in Texas has offered to be buyer for me and hopefully within two weeks I'll have a new swimsuit! Again my thanks to you, and everyone else, who were so very helpful. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
Dawn-- I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am paragraphis it really too late? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Oct 16, 2006 3:29 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange Folks, I'm including a confirmation list of email names of people who have signed up. If you are participating, please check to see if I have you on the list. I fished a few sign-ups out of the trash bin, but may have missed some. If you are not participating, you can delete this message. :) Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] end list ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dawn-- I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am paragraphis it really too late? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can add you to the list. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] help with docs for linen
I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter. It's Italian ren, about 1490. I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me about using linen. I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments. Can any of you help me disprove that? Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] silk prices in USA
Hi, I just wanted to share a bargain i had recently. Hyena had half price sale for solid silk taffeta in selected collours. I baught 10 yards of 2 collours and payed 320 dollars included shipping. It came home to me directly, didnt even had to pay any taxes for it. So i calculated and find that i have payed 96 danish kr. for each yard, usually i pay 700 for a meter.. You guys are lucky over there, that you can have it that cheap! Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
I'll do that as soon as I get home from work today. Thanks! --Ruth Anne -Original Message- From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Oct 17, 2006 11:49 AM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dawn-- I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am paragraphis it really too late? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can add you to the list. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Julie wrote: I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter. It's Italian ren, about 1490. I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me about using linen. I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments. Can any of you help me disprove that? I get worried whenever I see that statement, because I think it is a misapplication of something I originally wrote to this list years ago and have repeated elsewhere. I've posted in the past (and still maintain) that so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used for outer garments IN MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. Now I sometimes hear people insisting that linen wasn't period for the SCA -- which is far too broad a statement! For example, linen for outer garments shows up with some frequency in documents from Elizabethan England and the early American colonies. In your case, 1490 Italy is neither medieval nor Western European. I know Maureen Mazzaoui has shown use of cotton at this time (though I'm not sure for what sort of garments). For linen, I'd start by looking at Carole Collier Frick's Dressing Renaissance Florence -- perhaps someone on this list has a copy they can check for linen references to see if there's anything worth pursuing? Also Renaissance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald. And anyone else interested in this -- when you hear someone say Linen wasn't period for outer garments in the SCA, will you please find out where they got that idea? If they say it's from me, tell them they didn't get the whole story. I do like getting credit for my work, but I hate to see it oversimplified to the point of error. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] organ/pipe pleats
A feature common to a lot of the dresses in my era/area is a row of pleats falling from the waist at the back (but not the front or sides). I've been using rolled pleats taken in a rectangular piece of fabric for this, and they do a generally good jpb of giving the right look. But I've become annoyed with them lately--when the pleat moves from side to side, it gets these unappealing horizontal wrinkles, which really isn't the look I'm going for. Another problem is that the line where the pleats meet the waist seam is basically straight, whereas most images show rounded humps. (I'm too lazy right now to upload an appropriate picture, so take a look at this for a general idea of what I'm talking about; her sash mostly obscures the waistline at the back, but you can still get a hint of what the area where the pleats meet the waist seam looks like: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg ) Right now, I'm in the middle of making a version of this, my first intentionally English dress ever: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (though I'm going to put off making that heawear--oy) (I won't go into detail about why I'm pretty sure that the back of this has the back pleats as seen in the first link; suffice it to say that I feel reasonably confident based on other paintings.) Anyway, I went ahead with my normal rolled-pleats version, but the horizontal wrinkle problem was even worse than usual, so I have just officially gotten fed up and decided to try something new. I'm thinking of using organ/pipe pleats instead, taken in a piece of fabric that's closer to a semi-circle. (Well, several put together, probably.) I'm hoping that will fix the problem of wrinkling, and give the big-fat-rolls-with-curved-tops look; the semi-circle will mean that I'll still have a hefty amount of hem, as shown in most images. I've never played with this style of pleat before, though. Has anyone on the list messed about with it much? I'm thinking I may want to shape the edges of the roll (picture a cylinder cut off at an angle) rather than just stick it on there at a 90 degree angle, but I'm not sure if it's worth the bother. Also, I definitely plan to stuff each pleat, but I have yet to figure out what stuffing to use. A roll of fulled wool? Wadding of scrap fabric? Each roll should be at least 1 in diameter, so we're talking about some significant stuffing. I'm also worried about avoiding a ridge where the stuffing ends; I want the skirt to fall naturally to the ground, rather than going out while over the stuffing, but straight down where the stuffing ends. (Sigh--I'd already stitched the rolled pleats in place and called it done; sooo much work I'm making for myself now! And people wonder why I rarely get things 100% finished At least this one has a must-be-wearable-by date, which may help.) -E House PS--I'll be using this dress to test my theory on the purpose of those white bands. I _think_ I've got it, or at least a good possibility, but I won't know until the pleats are settled! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
There is the reference in Cennini's _Craftsman's Handbook_ (from Italy, late 14th or early 15th century): A section dealing with miscellaneous incidental operations: First, block printing on cloth Inasmuch as the execution of certain products painted on linen cloth, which are good for garments for little boys or children, and for certain church lecterns, still has to do with the profession of the brush, the way to do them is this. (p. 115-16 in my Dover edition) In response to Robin's suggestion, the only mention of linen in the index of Dressing Renaissance Florence is linen merchants. It's possible that there's something buried in the text that's not reflected in the index, though. There's no linen mentioned in Herald's index at all, but it doesn't seem very comprehensive. Melanie Schuessler Julie wrote: I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter. It's Italian ren, about 1490. I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me about using linen. I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments. Can any of you help me disprove that? Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
Hi Robin, Broadly, Western Europe does include Italy, simply looking left to right in the sense of Western Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe, surely. Maggie --- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've posted in the past (and still maintain) that so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used for outer garments IN MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. snip In your case, 1490 Italy is neither medieval nor Western European. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, MaggiRos wrote: Broadly, Western Europe does include Italy, simply looking left to right in the sense of Western Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe, surely. Europe is indeed in the West, or the Western World, or part of Western Civilization, as distinct from the East (formerly called the Orient). But Europe has internal regional divisions. As medieval historians typically* use the term, Italy is not in Western Europe. It is considered to be in Southern Europe. Scandinavia is not Western Europe either; it's Northern Europe. As modern historians use the term, Western Europe reflects political or economic divisions and usually refers to the NATO countries of Europe or the European countries that were not allied with the Eastern bloc. So there's a difference -- one that I have to remember when I'm talking to historians of other stripes! --Robin *Yes, I'm sure there are exceptions. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
Me, too? I'll send it tonight, in case I'm squeeking under the wire --Sue - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dawn-- I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am paragraphis it really too late? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can add you to the list. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 677
I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter. It's Italian ren, about 1490. I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me about using linen. I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments. Can any of you help me disprove that? Julie Ah, exactly why I dislike contests. I don't think you can disprove that, because I think it's true for the majority of known clothes. I would just document what would have been the correct fabric and then say I used linen because it was a preiod fabric and a better choice for my needs (and then say what those needs are). If judges hassle you about that, then they are not good judges. If they take off points, that's their job if they follow the rules. But almost anything we make today isn't period in some way or other. You should enter contests anyway, just for fun! See how you score on the other criteria. Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
