RE: [h-cost] Re: embroidery on velvet
With a skirt, if you had the room and the funds, you could make an old fashioned quilt frame. 2 1x4x8' and 2 1x4x2' or 3' These would make your frame. tack some ticking material to the boards so that you can pin the fabric for stretching and you will need 6-8 clamps, one for each corner and 2-4 to clamp the short boards to the saw horses. The long boards would be the ones, once you stitch the end of the fabric to them, would roll the material up, and as you finished a section, roll that under and unroll the material to be embroidered. Selvage ends should be parallel to the short boards. If your skirt has shaped pieces instead of rectangles I would recommend that you mark the skirt shape of the fabric (basting stitches work well for this) then embroider the piece before cutting it out. Just a thought, De -Original Message- First off, you *will* see *some* compression happening if you put a hoop on velvet, no matter what you do... second, if you use too small a slate or scroll frame, the same thing will happen. Of course, I can also tell you from experience that attempting to stitch on a piece as large as a skirt piece on a frame is darned difficult. In fact I've had enough difficulty getting to the center of my (rather largeish) seat cushion on my frame at faire that I've ended up making comments from time to time about how I suspect that's why there are more professional broiderers who are male than female... arms are just too short for somethings. Now.. there's hope. I managed to work on velvet a few years ago by using one of those plastic q-snap frames and using terry cloth (you can use another piece of velvet probably instead) to cushion where it is compressed to hold, and provide more 'space' for the nap. Limiting time in the frame and lightly re-fluffing it when off helps as well. You *will* have to stretch out the clips for the frame, and it's horribly non-period, so not real event-friendly, but it will work. Creating embroidery slips and then attaching them to the skirt is period for *some* periods... more than direct embroidery for certain periods and decorative types, in fact. I haven't got a picture of my embroidery frame, but what I created (mostly from scrap wood) fits somewhere square between pictures I've seen for medieval embroidery and mid-1600s work... both of which look *very* similar in pictures/woodcuts, so I'm taking it as reasonably period, and appropriate. Ady B. might have a picture... but I can't remember if she's taken one of the frame at faire in the last two seasons. -Liz (Mistress Mabel Ascomb, embroideress... at MDRF) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
Greetings, In the wills and inventories I work with the only reference to any sort of holder or container for thread has been 4 bowttes of blacke thred, which I took to be bolt (from the 1543 will of the porter of of the King's Wardrobe). Otherwise they just specify colour or colour and amount of thread, and sometimes fiber if it is silk. Yarns and wools they tend to get more descriptive about. Thread is mentioned extremely rarely, aside from the above exception, I have only found it in Drapers or Tailor's wills and inventories. Although, I'm sure it would also turn up in other similar trades such as silkwomen, I just haven't gathered any of their probate documents yet. Hope that helps. Cheers, Danielle At 01:27 PM 4/23/2007, you wrote: OK, here's the question: I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some handsewing, most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with thread? Was it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into hanks (like modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look right? *** Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence Bristol Renaissance Faire My arms are too short to box with God. --Johnny Cash *** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question
If you're working with velvet and gold thread dont even consider embroidering with a hoop or anything but a large scroll-type of embroidery frame. Trust me on this, as I've done extensive historical embroideries in real metal. Sorry guys, but the hoop or any other type is simply a compromise of your materials and skills and the quality you will achieve as a result. You can appliqué, yes. It's a completely historical and acceptable method of doing any type of embroidery. However, if you wish the embroidery to be done directly to the fabric, then the fabric on the frame is the way to go. Mark out your fabric with the garment pieces, transfer your embroidery patterns and then stretch on the frame. For the type of frame to use you can view a reproduction frame on our website. The URL is in the tagline. If you want further information, contact me. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine, original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.5.9/773 - Release Date: 4/22/2007 8:18 PM ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question
And if you appliqué, it's easier to remove and reuse when the foundation garment dies. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:16 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question If you're working with velvet and gold thread dont even consider embroidering with a hoop or anything but a large scroll-type of embroidery frame. Trust me on this, as I've done extensive historical embroideries in real metal. Sorry guys, but the hoop or any other type is simply a compromise of your materials and skills and the quality you will achieve as a result. You can appliqué, yes. It's a completely historical and acceptable method of doing any type of embroidery. However, if you wish the embroidery to be done directly to the fabric, then the fabric on the frame is the way to go. Mark out your fabric with the garment pieces, transfer your embroidery patterns and then stretch on the frame. For the type of frame to use you can view a reproduction frame on our website. The URL is in the tagline. If you want further information, contact me. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine, original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.5.9/773 - Release Date: 4/22/2007 8:18 PM ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] embroidery question
Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge wich they used between the velvet and the gold, so that the gold wont disapear in the plush of the velvet. A kind of invisible support on the velvet. When the embroidery is done, the surplus silk gauge is cut away, so it wont show. And not again that i have made embroidery on velvet yeat, but it is not as difficult as you think, to embroider a large piece of material, if only you have a proper frame, i do it all the time with my big frame and my waistcoat and jacket embroideries. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question
I recently cobbled together something in a pinch that worked. I was appliqueing an embroidery onto silk velvet, and because of the shape of the garment and the position of the applique, it had to be framed in order to be managed. I wasn't at home so didn't have access to my supply of stretcher frames (what I have always called a slate frame, which was a new term to me) So I went out to the local WalMart and bought a really cheap wooden picture frame and a box of large head thumb tacks. I wiggled the tacks through the weave (I found out the hard way this particular fabric liked to pull if not treated nicely) and tacked the garment into place on the frame just barely hard enough to work on, making sure the tack didn't press into the pile too much, pinned down the applique, worked then removed it from the frame after I was finished. Yes, I had a few pinholes, but they are fading now that I am working on something else on the garment and the fibres are slipping back into place. Not optimal, but it accomplished the goal. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. It’s never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
This image is a little earlier than your request but it shows a sewing basket. http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp If this doesn't take you there go to http://www.bl.uk/ and search for holy family at work I looks like thread is wound around a card or possibly a spool. Cheers, Mary I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some handsewing, most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with thread? Was it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into hanks (like modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look right? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
This image is a little earlier than your request but it shows a sewing basket. http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp If this doesn't take you there go to http://www.bl.uk/ and search for holy family at work I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird perched on it. As for the thread -- doesn't that look like a section of bone? Like a cow's leg bone or something with a largish diameter. It looks slightly curved. Or maybe a smaller round bone that is a whole section. That would be very much like a modern thread spool, but the perspective of the piece in the painting doesn't show the cross-section. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
Quoting Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This image is a little earlier than your request but it shows a sewing basket. http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird perched on it. I was wondering about the ants! As for the thread -- doesn't that look like a section of bone? Like a cow's leg bone or something with a largish diameter. It looks slightly curved. Or maybe a smaller round bone that is a whole section. That would be very much like a modern thread spool, but the perspective of the piece in the painting doesn't show the cross-section. I thought it looked like a card that had buckled under the tension of the thread wrapped around it. Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] embroidery question
Good recommendation for long hair velvet. Most of the long haired velvet embroidery that I have seen has the work on a lighter fabric and then appliquéd to the velvet. I have rarely seen this technique done on velveteen. De -Original Message- Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge wich they used between the velvet and the gold, so that the gold wont disapear in the plush of the velvet. A kind of invisible support on the velvet. When the embroidery is done, the surplus silk gauge is cut away, so it wont show. And not again that i have made embroidery on velvet yeat, but it is not as difficult as you think, to embroider a large piece of material, if only you have a proper frame, i do it all the time with my big frame and my waistcoat and jacket embroideries. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: thread holders....
At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I found some spools that are still modern shaped but made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I also found some old wooden spools among my grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to themselves, which is really the point. If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life becomes much easier... And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders that can fit into a clamp fringe twister... Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at home and nones the wiser G Ta Carol --string handling is turning into my lifes work G Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a problem and wanting to do something about it. I've seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten too many blank stares when I suggested that they should at least be concealed when in use. MaggiRos -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: wooden spools
At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would think that you could use dowels or a smooth piece of branch, minus the bark if you can't find the old wooden spools. Kate Google wooden spools. The woodworking supply folks sell various sizes by the gross...they are used in crafting... Ta Carol, just enabling G -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
--- Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge Bjarne, Can you describe this silk gauge? I've not heard of that kind of silk before (but I know my knowledge of various silks is limited). Thanks, Kimiko __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
The book i have it from, says silk gauge. What i think it is - is a light transparent silk, like chiffon or something like that! Its the book 18th century embroidery teckniques Bjarne - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question --- Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge Bjarne, Can you describe this silk gauge? I've not heard of that kind of silk before (but I know my knowledge of various silks is limited). Thanks, Kimiko __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
At 19:30 24/04/2007, you wrote: The book i have it from, says silk gauge. What i think it is - is a light transparent silk, like chiffon or something like that! Its the book 18th century embroidery teckniques Bjarne - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question That might be silk gauze? This is mentioned several times in the book that Bjarne mentions, rather than the gauge he calls it. I have seen net under embroidery too. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
I would think that you could use dowels or a smooth piece of branch, minus the bark if you can't find the old wooden spools. Kate - Original Message - From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:12 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England? I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I found some spools that are still modern shaped but made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I also found some old wooden spools among my grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to themselves, which is really the point. Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a problem and wanting to do something about it. I've seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten too many blank stares when I suggested that they should at least be concealed when in use. MaggiRos --- Rebecca Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Little balls, huh? I could probably do that! Or wound around a small card...yeah Thanks! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
I was wondering about the ants! Is *that* what those are?! Mighty big -- yuck! I thought it looked like a card that had buckled under the tension of the thread wrapped around it. It does, but I wonder (because I don't know -- I'm sure someone else does) how common it was to have paper of that thickness and stiffness in either the time depicted in the painting, or the time in which it was painted? Especially a discarded piece. A scrap of bone or a sliver of wood might be more throw-away in the time. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve. http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 188
If this doesn't take you there go to http://www.bl.uk/ and search for holy family at work --- I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird perched on it. --- I was wondering about the ants! I don't think the ants are symbolic, or the big red bug in the corner. I think they were just for fun. Many manuscript embellishments, even in major illuminations, were simply for the amusement of the owner. Remember, most people didn't have many books or pictures (if any). I own a facsimile of the Hours of Mary of Burgundy that has a hunt scene in the margins of many pages and some silly drawings. But the vase is probably a symbol of Mary's purity: her being a precious vessel preserved from use. I'm sure Robin can tell us more... Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called? Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:39 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve. http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery thread?
Hi Bjarne, Lacis has a lot of tools: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php and elegant stitch: http://www.elegantstitch.com/special.htm lists a variety of silk threads for tambour so I think you're on the right track. I'd love to learn how to do this type of needlework, but it's down a bit on my list ;) Good luck and I can't wait to see what you make next! Chris Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, For long i had given up to make tambour embroidery because i couldnt make it. But actually i couldnt make it because i used the wrong thread. When trying succesfully, i used ordinary sewing silk, and it worked for me. Now i just wondered, those of you who do tambour embroidery, do you have any favourite thread to use, and where could i get this? I prefer silk as you know. Many thanks. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Ahhh...imagining that irresistible new car smell? Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: thread holders....
All of you are awesome - I now have multiple options to choose from. Yay! :) *** Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence Bristol Renaissance Faire My arms are too short to box with God. --Johnny Cash *** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MaggiRos Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: thread holders I googled for wooden spools and among other things found a whole lot of different types--with and without thread--on Ebay! Which made me think that the bobbins for bobbin lace might be a good solution too, plus they're often very pretty. MaggiRos --- cahuff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life becomes much easier... And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders that can fit into a clamp fringe twister... Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at home and nones the wiser G ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
