[h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made for a 12 year old girl. Dawn I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. /Eva ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007
Dear Bjarne, Sally and I have just had the time to go through the pictures of the Bayreuth Event you were lucky enough to be able to attend. [You do recall making the embroidered red-satin belt pouch for her, with the 3 silver lions rampant? When she wears it at SCA events in the UK, it always attracts attention from ladies.] What a wonderful weekend iBayreuth must have been! And how marvellous that it could be held on such a wonderful Site! The clothing looks incredible - and you must all have had the wonderful I've slipped back in Time feeling for most of the weekend, too. Your silver suit looks so right - like original clothing miraculously preserved in a Museum and loaned-out just for the weekend - I can't praise the look highly enough. Pictures such as these could probably inspire my wife and I to think about changing Period to the 18th C. - if there was an 18th C Re-enactment Group anywhere close to us. Alas, Jersey is such a small island; and the travel costs are so high! We do have one 18th C group in Jersey - the Royal Militia of The Island of Jersey - inspired by the 1781 unsuccessful invasion by French mercenaries - but they mainly concentrate on the military aspects of things, and I've only seen a few ladies involved, dressed as soldiers' wives and camp-followers; - which hardly gives an incentive for re-creating high-Society 18th C. dress. Our 25yr-old grand-daughter fell in love with 18thC Costume through seeing the Cinderella Movie - and I have sent her the URL of the Bayreuth event pictures so that she can see those mouth-watering clothes and be inspired by them as well. Best wishes - Julian Wilson. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's _Elizabethan Embroidery_. It's plate 22B. The jacket or doublet illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by Elizabeth Day McCormick. It comes from Kimberley in Norfolk where Queen Elizabeth stayed in August 1578 with Sir Roger Woodhouse (who was knighted at the time) on her way from Blickling to Cambridge. ... It is embroidered in gold and silver with spangles and is trimmed with gold lace. The design of daffodils is very unusual and it is in brilliant condition. Remodelled in James I's reign, it has recently been restored to original form. (p. 84) If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578. It looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip godets, etc. Plate 22A is also purportedly associated with Queen Elizabeth, though the styling is a bit odd. It's a cloth-of-silver bodice with relatively narrow sleeves and a V in the neckline. Pl. 22A shows the famous Devereux heirloom belonging to Viscount Hereford. This bodice with sleeves is extremely richly embroidered on a silver ground, the floral pattern being entirely worked in gold and silver thread and silks, mostly in tent, gobelin, dot, buttonhole, and detached buttonhole stitches. It is the kind of embroidery which was used for the finest of the sweet bags, as we have already seen, and as a garment to wear, this bodice seems almost unbelievably ornate. The design is made up of roses, peascods (showing their seeds), forget-me-nots, tulips, cornflowers, columbine, iris, and pansy, the flowers all intermingled with snakes, birds, caterpillars and butterflies. The floral tendrils are worked as gold chains in chain stitch with a certain amount of gold bullion and gold wire. Tradition relates that when the Earl of Essex was in the Tower awaiting execution this bodice was sent by his mother, the Countess of Leicester, to the Queen. (p. 83) Melanie Schuessler On Sep 21, 2007, at 6:28 PM, Dawn wrote: Alexandria Doyle wrote: Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones? The Boston MFA seems to have several in their collection. I'd love for this one you mention to have been an earlier version, perhaps something Elizabeth might have worn as a child or young princess, just so I can see if there was a progress in style or cut. (sigh) Wishful thinking, that's all I remember it being white linen, woven and not knit. It was a late 1500's style, I don't remember too much else about it, other than all the metallic embroidery. There may have been metal lace. I've been searching the MFA website, but have not found it in the online collection yet. I'm surprised Janet Arnold didn't find it when doing her book on Elizabeth's clothing. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Eva, You are correct! I didn't remember that one, but there it is. And a pattern as well with some interesting notes on construction. Good catch, Melanie On Sep 22, 2007, at 2:23 AM, Eva Andersson wrote: However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made for a 12 year old girl. Dawn I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. /Eva ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Quoting Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Dawn said: However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made for a 12 year old girl. I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. Blanche calls it a doublet. Pattern #4, page 543. Figure #334 -- only shows the back. Courtesy the Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection) -- no other accession/item number. Text: The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is the proud possessor of the golden doublet presented to Elizabeth about 1578 (Fig. 334 and Draft 4). The fabric of the doublet is fine, firm white linen, obviously from the loom of a superior weaver. The surface is covered with gold and silver embroidery in an endless scroll design enclosing a stylized flower. The background is thiclky sewed with minute gold sequins. Gold lace finishes the lower edge. The doublet is breathtaking in its gleaming splendor and awe-inspiring in its historical implications. Almost 400 years old, it is in near-perfect condition, a real sixteenth-century masterpiece. Actual measurements of the doublet indicate that the queen was a small person but her grand manner left no such impression. (p. 315). Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume 1820's pattern
In a message dated 9/20/07 3:01:25 PM GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Greetings everyone: Can anyone recommend a c. 1820's pattern? - quick delivery, fairly accurate, instructions that are not to hard to follow, yadda, yadda. I usually draft my own patterns, but I'm tired of messing around and tweaking designs. The usual story - last minute project idea, etc. Sheridan Alder Hi Sherian, Tough call. The 1820's seems to be in that metamorphosing era between one easily recognised silhouette and the next. A good pattern is Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 1. Pelisse 1818-23 Gloucester Museum (Sigh. I know you don't want to be draughting up patterns. Just thought I'd point this out). NEXT . Try looking at La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe. This is not a cheap pattern but you do get the whole wardrobe. You will still need to do some tweaking. May be lower the waist a tad and perhaps put a little more gore in to the skirts. (Check out the Arnold to keep the proportions on bodice and skirt) Add extra petticoats with frills at the bottom to surgest the widening skirt. To review this pattern on line see http://www.songsmyth.com/patternsgowns.html There are a lot of other regency patterns at this site. Also take a look at http:www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/LaModeBagatelle.htm To buy on line go to http://www.sewingcentral.com Click on patterns, then click on Regency, scroll down to La Mode Bagatelle. It is also available at http://www.com./clothier/bagatelle/regency.jsp Hope this helps. Regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. Blanche calls it a doublet. Pattern #4, page 543. Figure #334 -- only shows the back. Courtesy the Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection) -- no other accession/item number. I finally found it on the web site: http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=trueid=116779coll_keywords=woman%27scoll_accession=coll_name=coll_artist=coll_place=coll_medium=coll_culture=englishcoll_classification=Costumescoll_credit=coll_provenance=coll_location=coll_has_images=coll_on_view=coll_sort=2coll_sort_order=0coll_view=0coll_package=0coll_start=51 Accession number: 43.243 Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615. I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in 1603. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Thank you for posting this! I have never seen this piece. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 11:25 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. Blanche calls it a doublet. Pattern #4, page 543. Figure #334 -- only shows the back. Courtesy the Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection) -- no other accession/item number. I finally found it on the web site: http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=trueid=116779coll_ke ywords=woman%27scoll_accession=coll_name=coll_artist=coll_place=coll_me dium=coll_culture=englishcoll_classification=Costumescoll_credit=coll_pr ovenance=coll_location=coll_has_images=coll_on_view=coll_sort=2coll_sor t_order=0coll_view=0coll_package=0coll_start=51 Accession number: 43.243 Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615. I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in 1603. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
On 9/22/07, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sounds like the one shown in Fashion in Detail, 17th 18thc, look for the polychrome embroidery jacket 1610 with the silver lace, silver spangles silver braid p16. It's in the VA not the MFA. Same book, a less fitted polychrome embroidery jacket on p24. Much more casual in fit style. This latter one is what I would expect for a dressing jacket or a bed jacket, where the previous looks too fitted. I would expect the first in one in Fashion in Detail to be used as an at home. Pure speculation. Same book, Fashion in Detail, 4 more jackets (with color pics of all) Black embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150 Red embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150 Another with black embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150 Polychrome embroidery and silver braid 1620s p148 --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Alexandria Doyle wrote: Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones? The Boston MFA seems to have several in their collection. Dawn: I remember it being white linen, woven and not knit. It was a late 1500's style, I don't remember too much else about it, other than all the metallic embroidery. There may have been metal lace. I've been searching the MFA website, but have not found it in the online collection yet. Sounds like the one shown in Fashion in Detail, 17th 18thc, look for the polychrome embroidery jacket 1610 with the silver lace, silver spangles silver braid p16. It's in the VA not the MFA. Same book, a less fitted polychrome embroidery jacket on p24. Much more casual in fit style. This latter one is what I would expect for a dressing jacket or a bed jacket, where the previous looks too fitted. I would expect the first in one in Fashion in Detail to be used as an at home. Pure speculation. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 438
From: Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED] However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's _Elizabethan Embroidery_. It's plate 22B. The jacket or doublet illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by Elizabeth Day McCormick. If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578. It looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip godets, etc. Pleasingly, the MFA agrees with you, Melanie not Mr Digby's 1963 scholarship. Search the MFA costume collection for provenance=McCormick or search under jackets. The MFA says English, About 1610–15, with later alterations. England, Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads and spangles; metallic bobbin lace. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] men's breeches 1st half of the 17th cent....
Hi How 'poofy' would a tradesman's breeches be in the 1st half of the 17th cent in England? Are the ones in The Cut of Men's Clothing a good rep for one of the middling sort? Ta Carol -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
Thank you all for the Hood references. As chance would have it, my stash for the dolls includes lots of silk velvet, and I know at least one piece is soft enough at hand to make a very nice hood. The pearl braid I am using has been harvested from a 'dead' wedding gown. The pearls are paste and so rather fragile; one string is set on a cord of silver metal (now tarnished); the other has very slightly larger pearls with silver-lined glass bead picot running the length. This 'personage' is about 12 tall. Queen Maude is 20 tall and designing for her is somewhat easier to include greater detail for the scale. Made a new wig for Elizabeth yesterday and the face was transformed. Her 'working wig' was the curly sort one sees in most of the later portraits. The prominent Gibson girl pout is there in the pert nose, but the simpler hair do makes her look more pensive and vulnerable...and I think like Holbein saw her. Made me remember in my years of presenting vintage and antique trunk or fashion shows how often I had to encourage the models to at least try to achieve a hairstyle that was apropriate to the age of the ensemble they were wearing. Hair does so much to really evoke the past. Still cleaning up after my massive two day sale of last spring at a local auction house. My archives room is overflowing with all manner of antique/vintage fabric, fragments of all manner of fab. and trim, lace, tiny buttons, fur (tiny ermine tails), jewelry, leather and such. I am now going to edit some of this; most of the Twentieth century stuff, especially almost anything after 1960, will be passed on to the local quilters or assisted living craft rooms. And the rest? The dollies are all calling to me...I'm next! It's My turn! No fair. You always pick Her and the like. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
Kathleen, Are there pictures of your dolls online? I love dolls and would really appreciate seeing your creations. With regards, kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
Not yet. I am now trying to explore a venue for an exhibit. My concertration is still Historicle costuming, but on a mini scale...not historicle costuming as practiced by those who generally represent antique dolls of Historicle note. Original Doll in Original Package with Original Head, Arms, and Body, wearing Original clothing does not usually exhibit historicle clothing...only historicitie related to the doll industry. As always, I am aware that any atempt of past fashion replication will always be an atempt and not true recreation. My best evocations will at best turn the minds eye to a reflection of the past fashion period attempted. Spent the evening with some goldlace medallions, tiny pearls, garnet beads, and a gilt cross evoking the jewelry E. wears in the Holbein portrait. La. what fun! kathleen Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I Kathleen, Are there pictures of your dolls online? I love dolls and would really appreciate seeing your creations. With regards, kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
