Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
At 10:31 28/09/2007, you wrote: I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. :) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr! I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked. I suggest you look here (www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php) for suppliers in the U.K. I particularly recommend Bernie the Bolt as he supplies most of the Living History/Re-enactors in this country. Or you could look out for The National Living History Fair, (http://www.livinghistoryfayres.com/) or The Original Re-enactor's Market, (http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/) both usually held in October/November, and in the Spring, where you can go and handle and buy suitable fabrics. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
I still get paid in dollars, so I'd rather purchase from the US if I can. That means I am fairly limited to online sites or where my MIL can go. But I need to explain to her exactly what I need as she doesn't sew. But not knowing what type of wool fabric is preferred is a big problem for both scenarios. With the dollar to pound conversion it is cheaper for me to buy many things in the US. I just bought a very very nice rug in the US and had it shipped to me in England for what I could have bought a much crappier version here. But thanks for the vendor list. :) The dollar/pound situation may change in the future and I have bookmarked the various sites. Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I suggest you look here (www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php) for suppliers in the U.K. I particularly recommend Bernie the Bolt as he supplies most of the Living History/Re-enactors in this country. Or you could look out for The National Living History Fair, (http://www.livinghistoryfayres.com/) or The Original Re-enactor's Market, (http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/) both usually held in October/November, and in the Spring, where you can go and handle and buy suitable fabrics. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth? Soffya Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote: I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings and undergarments. IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
Beteena Paradise wrote: I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings and undergarments. IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] questions about wool
I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. :) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr! I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked. Thanks! Teena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] folds in silk taffeta
I do not know if it might stain your fabric, but there is an old time remedy that speaks of moistening the fold with white vinegar which is applied with a rough wash cloth,,,then press it gently while it is still damp. I have had some luck doing this in the past. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:42 AM Subject: [h-cost] folds in silk taffeta I have started to embroider a new custom made waistcoat. I received the silk taffeta it is going to be made from about 1 year ago. It was folded down into a little square. Today i prepared it to be patterned with the embroidery, steam ironed it on both sides, but the folds are still visible. Is there a chance that those folds will disappear in time? Maybe when i stretch it to my embroidery frame? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Black lace trim
Don't know how much you need, but there is usually some on Cheeptrim.com. They do have a min. order, however. kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 9:16 AM Subject: [h-cost] Black lace trim I'm looking for black lace trim by the yard, preferably 9 inches wide--would prefer it gathered, too, but would take flat and gather it myself. Can anyone steer me to a good dealer? Ann Wass ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Searching for Busk
Thank you to those who replied to my query about a 15 busk. I am making progress on my gown in the style of the Ditchley portrait, and actually have hope that it might someday be done. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
They won't full, or I'd be surprised if they moved more than very slightly. Modern fabrics, especially those types of fabrics, are treated so they don't full in the wash. (Now, I know there's a difference between worsting, fulling and felting, but I don't think it's relevant to the present conversation...) On 9/28/07, Judith Bolenbaugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth? Soffya Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote: I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings and undergarments. IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
For the 14th c. I would go with a gabardine or worsted twill, actually, unless you can find a lightweight woolen. Layers, rather than one heavy garment, are the way to go here (and accurate for the period!). For Fashion Fabrics Club, keywords are 100% wool and then suiting, gabardine, worsted, twill, and perhaps flannel. Skip the tricotine--that way lies madness and tears. On fabric.com, look for wool gabardine and wool suiting. Those are my two favorite fabric sites. For fulling, well, it depends on the fabric. Some are treated and some aren't, and that part isn't always obvious until you've washed it. I find that woolens are more likely to full than worsteds, in my experience. Jen/pixel On Fri, 28 Sep 2007, Beteena Paradise wrote: I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. :) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr! I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked. Thanks! Teena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
Suit weight can be worsted or woolen. I've had modern tabby-woven woolens full an awful lot--something like 30%--in the wash. Worsted is much less likely to full. Jen/pixel On Fri, 28 Sep 2007, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: They won't full, or I'd be surprised if they moved more than very slightly. Modern fabrics, especially those types of fabrics, are treated so they don't full in the wash. (Now, I know there's a difference between worsting, fulling and felting, but I don't think it's relevant to the present conversation...) On 9/28/07, Judith Bolenbaugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth? Soffya Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote: I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid? FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings and undergarments. IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com is probably your best bet for price selection, but be warned of a couple of things. First, I've watched the owner as he takes a brief look and feel of unlabelled fabric before deciding what to sell it as--100% wool ain't always 100% wool. Scary, no? He may not care about that 2% poly or lycra, but it makes a big difference to us. But most of the fabric he gets is labelled, and he does know a lot about fabric, so it's not quite as scary as it sounds. Second, and something that should definitely be kept in mind for all fabrics from that site, just because two fabrics have the exact name, description, and price, doesn't mean that they're the same fabric. In fact, they're almost never the same fabric; once in a while he does get the same fabric in different colors, but it's rare indeed. If it's really important, order 1/8 yd as a sample. All that said, even though my personal preference is heavily on the worsted side, I'd say you're definitely right about woolens being your best choice, and not just because of the warmth. In the 14thC, fulled wool the hip fabric, and as far as I can tell from my research, the biggest difference that the impact of wealth would have had on the fabric choice (apart from dye) would have been how well ( how many times) the wool would have been fulled sheared. When I saw wool that had been thoroughly fulled sheared multiple times in a period manner, I was shocked at how UNfulled it looked to my eye. After that much work, I was expecting it to resemble felt (the way that melton does) but it wasn't the least bit felt-like and the weave was still clearly visible--it looked more to me like a slightly threadbare flannel. (Speaking of which, flannel or some similar plain-weave woolen would probably be closest to the most typical 14thC choices.) Modern woolens go through an extensive finishing process--even the cheap ones. The fabric you'd be buying has already been fulled! People (like me, sometimes) who buy a woolen and then immediately set off to full it are just fulling it MORE--it's absolutely not necessary if you just want fulled wool. It's already been fulled. However, as part of that finishing process, the amount of shrinkage allowed is strictly controlled, so if you want to shrink the fabric further and tighten the weave more, extra fulling is necessary, and might be a good idea if you plan to dag it. Making sure that the fabric can handle your typical washing regime is different; you don't need to expose it to the extremes and the harsh treatment that are required for fulling, just in order to make sure that it can handle the gentle cycle. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
http://www.joe-ks.com/archives_mar2006/SafeSexDress.htm This dress reminded me of a request for submissions for Lark Publications 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art. http://www.larkbooks.com/submissions/ArtistsEntryForms.asp I thought some of you might just be intersted! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
I just bought an 80/20 Linen Wool blend from the outlet store in Meulebeke Belgium for 8 Euros/yard it is at least 60. Even if you just buy linen, the quality is fabulous http://www.thelinenhouse.com/EN/AboutUs_TheStores.htm This isn't that far a drive from England these days and is totally worth it - the stuff from their regular store is fabulous, but expensive! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
At least, if you wear it on a date, you're always prepared! On Sep 28, 2007, at 4:19 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: http://www.joe-ks.com/archives_mar2006/SafeSexDress.htm This dress reminded me of a request for submissions for Lark Publications 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art. http://www.larkbooks.com/submissions/ArtistsEntryForms.asp I thought some of you might just be intersted! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
