Re: [h-cost] 15th century hose - codpiece
Thank you for your suggestions - I also thought the opening must be way lower than the regular fly. I also examined carefully the sketch of the codpiece in pattern cutting for men's costume (great book, by the way) and I found the triangle is inserted just at the point the inner seam and crotch seam meet and is sewn between the legs - some inches after that it goes into the codpiece and opening or attachment of the codpiece is really 1-2 inches lower than the modern fly. This arose another question - the triangle that's to be inserted between the legs actually adds more room. There can be more room between the legs for movement, but not extra room in the lower part of the front section - it would make the hose too loose at the hips. Am I right to cut off a bit of the front part to accomodate this? It would cause a small gap (equal the width of the triangle) in the front seam, but that's - I think - right. It will be covered by the codpiece anyway - the vidible gap part will be just about 2 above the codpiece: http://www.brodec.org/malesov_2007/slides/P1030813.html (The hose is really terrible, but I put it here just to show what I mean with the gap) The only thing that confuses me is that neither Thursfield nor E.Friendship suggest cutting off the front part because of the inserted triangle. What do you think? Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th century hose - codpiece
What I actually think is that you need to fit the codpiece to the wearer. If it's too big someplace, make it smaller there, and if it's too small someplace, make it bigger there. Not helpful, I guess, but I personally rely on fitting and pattern-draping rather than drafting and book-measurements. I'm awful with drafting patterns, and only start with existing patterns, going directly to a live body from there, and start draping to fit. Thanks for the images. They look like they were taken in a real historical building. And everyone looks very much like they stepped out of a painting. What do you think? Zuzana -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th century hose - codpiece
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but I think the answer is that the codpiece overlaps the front of the hose pieces, it doesn't fit edge to edge. The hose may meet or not, the codpiece just covers if they don't meet. Can you tell me what the badge is that the gentleman in the hose is wearing? Jean On 21/04/2009, Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com wrote: Thank you for your suggestions - I also thought the opening must be way lower than the regular fly. I also examined carefully the sketch of the codpiece in pattern cutting for men's costume (great book, by the way) and I found the triangle is inserted just at the point the inner seam and crotch seam meet and is sewn between the legs - some inches after that it goes into the codpiece and opening or attachment of the codpiece is really 1-2 inches lower than the modern fly. This arose another question - the triangle that's to be inserted between the legs actually adds more room. There can be more room between the legs for movement, but not extra room in the lower part of the front section - it would make the hose too loose at the hips. Am I right to cut off a bit of the front part to accomodate this? It would cause a small gap (equal the width of the triangle) in the front seam, but that's - I think - right. It will be covered by the codpiece anyway - the vidible gap part will be just about 2 above the codpiece: http://www.brodec.org/malesov_2007/slides/P1030813.html (The hose is really terrible, but I put it here just to show what I mean with the gap) The only thing that confuses me is that neither Thursfield nor E.Friendship suggest cutting off the front part because of the inserted triangle. What do you think? Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Academic Sleeves
The recent discussion of academic hoods has reminded me of something that has intrigued me for a long time. One evening, I was privileged to sit for a couple of hours next to my tutor; as it was a formal university occasion, he was wearing his gown, which showed that he held the D.Phil of Oxford University. I was quite entranced by the complex embroidery on the sleeve next to me, and would love to have examined it closely, but never was able to find out anything about it. All I can remember now is that it was a very complex design, and at least part of it was a sort of smocking done over many fine gathers. It was all on the part of the sleeve which lays over the upper arm, and on the outer side, (on the opposite side to where you would find the sleeve seam on a modern shirt). And I haven't even been able to find a picture on the web to show you what I mean. Does anyone know anything about this kind of decoration? Is it based on an old tradition? How far back is such embroidery found, (somehow it looked Victorian)? Does the pattern vary with the university, or the type of degree, or the individual's preference? Since none of the previous messages, nor the 'Tailor and Pattern Cutter' pages, mention any embroidery or sleeve decoration - perhaps it is unique to Oxford? Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic Sleeves
Quoting Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com: Does anyone know anything about this kind of decoration? Is it based on an old tradition? How far back is such embroidery found, (somehow it looked Victorian)? Does the pattern vary with the university, or the type of degree, or the individual's preference? Since none of the previous messages, nor the 'Tailor and Pattern Cutter' pages, mention any embroidery or sleeve decoration - perhaps it is unique to Oxford? Tailor and Pattern cutter pages? Did I miss something? Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
