Re: [h-cost] Roman question
Hi, Yes, that's along the line of what I'm debating. Come morning, when I'm actually awake and functioning, I'll read this again and see if this is how I want to proceed. Thanks. Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Becky Rautine Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:42 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman question Do you have an image to refresh my memory? I think we studied some Early Roman paintings that the teacher said had this type of hood/ covering. I think he suggested that most outer edges were left raw but folded somehow. Like a double piece of fabric that is made when you fold 2 edges together on one piece. Some of the weaving of the cloth was actually woven in the desired shape then stitched side by side, no overlap or seam allowance. I'm not sure if that applied to what you're looking at. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine From: costume...@mazarineblue.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 18:23:15 -0700 Subject: [h-cost] Roman question Hi, Finally making progress in my quest to build pieces to use in my history class. The ancients are certainly some of the simplest to build, but of course I have an insatiable need to complicate my life and my projects! So, if you were building a Roman paenula (hooded poncho-like garment) in a thick wool or fake wool (actual fiber not certain), the cut edges of which are pretty stable, how would you sew the seams? Obviously I'm not looking for serging ideas here. I am maybe contemplating actually hand stitching it since it doesn't amount to a whole lot of sewing. I think my question is do we think that they would have lapped the edges and sewn through the layers - no flapping seam allowances on the inside? Or would regular, plain seams, pressed open or to one side seem more likely? This is NOT life altering stuff here! I've not gone over the edge in a quest for period accuracy. I'm just curious. Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online. http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON :WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman question
A good Roman question might be Did Livia cook this? Sorry, I couldn't resist. Anyway, as to sewing. If the wool was thick and spongy, I would think it would be butted up and then stitched side by side, As suggested. This might be done by putting the fabric right sides together, like we would when sewing on a machine, and whipping over both edges (not too tightly), then spreading the cloth out and gently pulling it until the pieces are butted up next to each other. Of course the stitching shows, but if sewn with threads from the fabric itself I read about this technique somewhere, but I can't remember where. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Standardized Clothing Sizes
- Forwarded message from kingsta...@comcast.net - I have a question forwarded to me by someone that studies the 19th century and the American Civil War. The question involves the production of clothing, and the use of standardized clothing sizes. The assumption is that the Union Army was the first mass producer of 'sized' clothing to allow for the distribution of uniforms to new recruits. Evidently a survey of recruits was done, and orders for uniforms were based on averages, so a bundle of 100 uniforms sent to a unit would have so many jackets sized for a 38 inch chest, so many for a 40, 42, etc. With the advent of the industrial revolution, manufacture of standardized sizes in clothing became possible. So, the question is: Was there any evidence prior to the American Civil War and the Union Army's survey of recruits for the manufacture of standardized sized clothing? If someone is on the SCA Costumer's egroup, could you pass this question along? Many thanks, Christianna - End forwarded message - Susan/ Jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman question
On Friday 11 September 2009 9:23:15 pm Laurie Taylor wrote: Hi, Finally making progress in my quest to build pieces to use in my history class. The ancients are certainly some of the simplest to build, but of course I have an insatiable need to complicate my life and my projects! So, if you were building a Roman paenula (hooded poncho-like garment) in a thick wool or fake wool (actual fiber not certain), the cut edges of which are pretty stable, how would you sew the seams? Obviously I'm not looking for serging ideas here. I am maybe contemplating actually hand stitching it since it doesn't amount to a whole lot of sewing. I think my question is do we think that they would have lapped the edges and sewn through the layers - no flapping seam allowances on the inside? Or would regular, plain seams, pressed open or to one side seem more likely? Check out some of these: http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/wool.html#Wool -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com A great pleasure in life is doing what people say you cannot do. --Walter Bagehot ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Sorry for the cross-post, but ... The VA has an embroidered Jacket (Accession 919-1873) http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O80226 There's a picture of *part* of the embroidery in King Levey -- and the front of the jacket and the side seam are up on the VA website (referenced above). Does anybody have a picture of the *back* of the jacket? I'm trying to get a feel for the pattern, the snippet in King Levey isn't big enough -- and the front, is ... well, the front! Thanks! Susan/jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
The front does show a repeat of the motif--the double acorn spiral on the mannequin's left by the neckline, also shows up above the hem, and in partial side-view, under the armscye seam on the front again. And also on the mannequin's left, sans the side-front motif which is hidden by the curve of the body, if it's there at all. The colors change relative positions in motif repetitions. If you are looking for the cut of the jacket, then this whole digression is not of much use. Ann in CT --- On Sat, 9/12/09, Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com wrote: The VA has an embroidered Jacket (Accession 919-1873) http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O80226 Does anybody have a picture of the *back* of the jacket? I'm trying to get a feel for the pattern Susan/jerusha ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Quoting Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com: The front does show a repeat of the motif--the double acorn spiral on the mannequin's left by the neckline, also shows up above the hem, and in partial side-view, under the armscye seam on the front again. And also on the mannequin's left, sans the side-front motif which is hidden by the curve of the body, if it's there at all. The colors change relative positions in motif repetitions. If you are looking for the cut of the jacket, then this whole digression is not of much use. I'm looking for a good clear image of the embroidery rather than the cut. It looks an awful lot like what we called hatching jackets when I was a kid. In period terms -- a mini ropa cut would probably do it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman question
On Sep 11, 2009, at 7:23 PM, Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com wrote: Hi, Finally making progress in my quest to build pieces to use in my history class. The ancients are certainly some of the simplest to build, but of course I have an insatiable need to complicate my life and my projects! So, if you were building a Roman paenula (hooded poncho-like garment) in a thick wool or fake wool (actual fiber not certain), the cut edges of which are pretty stable, how would you sew the seams? Obviously I'm not looking for serging ideas here. I am maybe contemplating actually hand stitching it since it doesn't amount to a whole lot of sewing. I think my question is do we think that they would have lapped the edges and sewn through the layers - no flapping seam allowances on the inside? Or would regular, plain seams, pressed open or to one side seem more likely? This is NOT life altering stuff here! I've not gone over the edge in a quest for period accuracy. I'm just curious. In researching constructional sewing (as opposed to decorative, that is), the most typical seam for wool from antiquity up through the medieval period is a lapped or felled seam, often with one or both of the edges turned under, but sometimes with the fabric simply overlapped. The stitch used is typically an overcast stitch. Rather than trying to describe it, I'll point you to my article archaeological sewing on my website at heatherrosejones.com. Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
