Re: [h-cost] Exhibition of English wedding dresses since 1780

2011-02-15 Thread Linda Walton

On 14/02/2011 10:27, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote:

Linda,

I couldn't get the link to show the photos.

[snip]

You're right - it didn't work for me either, when I followed it from the 
email.  Originally, I followed it from a link on the BBC webpage, but 
when I looked at that today, again following the link in my email, the 
link to the second site had disappeared.  However, experience with 
County Council museum websites enabled me to rediscover it:-


http://www.culture24.org.uk/art/design/fashion+and+costume/art347997

I've tested it by sending it to myself in an e-mail and clicking on the 
link in that, and it came up alright; but, if you still have trouble 
with it, let me know and I'll set out the steps I took to reach it.


Best wishes,
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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Re: [h-cost] h-cost] 15th c sewing technique

2011-02-15 Thread Sunshine Buchler
 Recently, I was given some information which seems wrong to me. I was told 
 that 

 I should be using twill tape to stablize the neck and front opening of a 
 (pre-tudor) mid-15th century laced front kirtle. To me, that sounds like a 
 modern sewing technique, but the woman who told me this said that was the way 
 the extant clothing was done. I've tried doing some research and can't find 
 anything to confirm it. Does this sound right to anyone here? Thanks.

Hi Teena,
 
The Museum of London book, _Clothing and Textiles c.1150-c1450_ by Elizabeth 
Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland has one example from the second 
quarter of the fourteenth century that they think is a neckline which is 
finished with a tabby-weave silk ribbon on the inside (page 106). The ribbon is 
pretty narrow (5mm wide) and sewn with two rows of running stitches (at the 
neckline edge and the middle of the ribbon) and the bottom edge of the ribbon 
is 
held down with a whipstitch (well, the book calls it a hemstitch, but the 
drawing shows something I’d call a whipstitch rather then a hemstitch… but 
stitch-terminology is always a bit tricky). I’ve used this as a neckline finish 
many times – it creates a lovely crisp finish to the edge.
 
The same book shows a late fourteenth century fragment with eyelets (page 164). 
The fragment shows eyelets on a silk facing, with traces of the woolen cloth 
that the facing was originally attached too. This was not a ribbon, but a 
facing 
– however, the facing (at least along the outer edge which still shows wool 
fragments) was topstitched on (with a running stitch), which is not how a 
modern 
facing would be applied.
 
If it helps any, I recently wrote up documentation for my early 15th century 
laced front kirtle, and I corral this (and other construction information) all 
into one place – you can read it here: 
http://cleftlands.cwru.edu/Sunny/index.html(it’s the Duc de Berry Peasent Dress)
 
    -sunny
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