Re: [h-cost] Ear-coverings and wimples

2012-04-01 Thread AVCHASE
This to any who are interested. I've noticed a significant lack of mention of 
the 'coif', which is an integral part of the habit of the Benedictines nun's 
attire, with the wimple and the one or two part veil. It was explained to me, 
by the historian of an abbey, that their habit dates from their founding by 
Benedict and has been kept in that style. In that habit the head covering 
consists of the three or four pieces mentioned. We did not discuss the meaning 
of these pieces or the purpose or symbols of them, if any - and I'm sure there 
are.. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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Re: [h-cost] Desperation request from a friend….

2012-03-01 Thread AVCHASE
You don't say how much is needed. If the director hasn't already done so he 
might contact colleges and universities, even large high schools, Knights of 
Columbus, etc. to borrow. Use might be cut down to minimal pieces,i.e. arm 
guards and breast plates with shirts of flowing sleeves and lavish , colorful 
capes, to make a romantic picture. The actors will appreciate not having heavy, 
hot armor, too. Audy


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Re: [h-cost] Desperation request from a friend….

2012-03-01 Thread AVCHASE
Ruth, he might also seek help from the nearest SCA. Audy


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Re: [h-cost] Steampunk Patterns, was pattern suggestions

2012-02-10 Thread AVCHASE

These look like just the thing for small stage productions; because, you know, 
we never have enough time or money. Audy.


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Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine

2012-02-07 Thread AVCHASE
My grandmother taught me to sew on her long bobbin treadle machine. I was given 
a hand cranked chain stitch machine that year for Christmas which made me cry 
because, at 12, I didn't consider it real. My mother used a 1939 White Rotary 
that I was allowed to use when I got glasses. Thanks to my Grandmother's 
training my mother was surprised to learn that I sewed as well as she.
I have had a number of different machines; 1923 Singer portable, 1959 Brother, 
an old Singer the year of which I don't remember.
Presently I have an old Elna straight stitch and a Denim and Silk EuroPro.
I think what the beginner needs is a good teacher first and then a simple 
machine for starters. Something sturdy and tough but gentle. 
Audy 

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Re: [h-cost] Pattern drafting history, Kidwell, Seligman

2012-01-27 Thread AVCHASE
Historical Note: Audrey Chase began drafting patterns for academic staged 
productions in 1971. Previous pattern drafting experience had been confined to 
self dressing and occasional works for selected individuals:her children, her 
friends, and previously, her dolls. However her drafting training and work 
experience had been as an engineering student and electromechanical 
draftsperson in the 1960's. 
When she began working in theatrical productions as a student at a college that 
had no library and no stock, she visited museums and, making adjustments for 
time, money, and the lack of resources drafted the show as designed. At the 
time there were few, if any, commercial patterns available for period costume. 
Re-enactment, and the research inspired by it, were infant endeavors not yet 
available to the general public and students. Such historical clothing books as 
were to be had are, for the most part, held in ill-repute today.
Until recently, when severe injuries halted her ability to stand for the time 
required to draw pattern, that has been the way this designer has functioned, 
as the venues designed for could not afford to pay for the accurate and 
superior patterns available today. TE,he,he! Audy

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Re: [h-cost] 1958 prom dress

2012-01-27 Thread AVCHASE
Left shoulder corsage. And no, tacky. Audy

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Re: [h-cost] 1968 Boys Wear

2012-01-23 Thread AVCHASE
Size. The little guys are usually trained by three. From an earlier era, the 
50's, that was when they could be put into the more useful play and dress 
clothes. At about age five or six (they always seemed to be younger then the 
indicated size) they jumped to 8's and 10's. just experience speaking. Audy

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Re: [h-cost] 1968 Boys Wear

2012-01-23 Thread AVCHASE
Penny, just a guess on apache 1968. A typical fashion throwback to the 
30's-40's apache dancers? Not at all American Indian like. Also in that era I 
remember making some sport shirts,about early 70's, not like anything available 
commercially, of very wildly colored prints that resembled American Indian 
motifs. Resembled is the key word. The boys loved them.Audy.


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Re: [h-cost] Remember the zipper jewelry?

2012-01-22 Thread AVCHASE
Ah, Fran, 

I so love your posts; I commiserate with you in your deprivation. Where I live 
there is WalMart. That's it! Unless there might be something at $ General or 
the hardware store.

Audy


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[h-cost] HOT GLUE USE

2011-12-01 Thread AVCHASE
 I don't know about stays but I've made hot glue teeth and eye-whites for masks 
and dolls by that method.
Audy

anyone on this list a student of Theatre Arts @ UCLA 1974-1976?


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[h-cost] NOT TYING YOUR BONNET STRINGS?

2011-11-22 Thread AVCHASE
To go bare-headed and/or bare-legged was wanton behavior not so long ago. To 
not tie your bonnet strings was extremely 'prideful' or 'wanton' as a lady 
could not control the wind (reap the wind) or chase after her bonnet. It was 
wanton if done to, hopefully, cause a gentleman to chase after it for you. So 
much for the arts of flirtation. Way beyond allowing ones handkerchief to 
escape ones fingers or sleeve! Audy

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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

2011-10-30 Thread AVCHASE
What my grandmother told me when I was a girl but a little background. she was 
born in Virginia in 1882. Her Father was an Anglo-Irish earl, who had 
relinquished his title to become an American citizen, and he became a circuit 
riding preacher after taking his family to West Virginia and farming there. My 
Grandmother, in her teens, went to work for another farm family, until she was 
nearly twenty. She earned fifty-cents a week, which would buy three yards of 
dress goods to make a work dress. The farmer's wife,from France, who became her 
MIL, was the area dress maker by default. the work dress fell loosely from the 
shoulders to slightly below the waist line. The dress skirt was attached there 
and there was a buttoned placket opening in the front from the neckline. I 
don't remember if she said it, the placket, fell to the hem, which was just 
above the ankles. The placket opening could button either to the left or right 
depending on the needs of the woman for whom it was made fo!
 r convenience when nursing. The sleeves were loose and long, buttoned, and 
often rolled, when working, to be kept clean. When working the fields it could 
be, that is was, often worn over mans loose work pants and and shirt. In the 
field, with only family present, it might be removed, but kept nearby in case 
another person appeared. A woman in engaged in field work would ride astride 
but kept the dress on. Her shoes, similar to brogans, ankle height lace-ups, 
cost her three weeks wages. In house she wore the dress with a straight cotton 
or wool slip and an apron either wrap around or pinned bib. Her stockings were 
heavy lisle fastened at the knee. Her drawers were crotch opened for ease of 
elimination and she wore no bra. Does this help. Please respond.

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Re: [h-cost] OT: May I implore your aid, prithee please?

2011-09-28 Thread AVCHASE
Sharon, thank you so much for your input. there are places here where one could 
do that but not expect payment. I can't stand long or walk too much or sit too 
long right now. I could teach but not help much except for guidance and I would 
be expected to fund my own transportation costs. That's pretty much my problem. 
I could pay for the priveledge and be welcomed but I need a small income from 
what I do if I have to leave home. I don't want people coming to me as I live 
in very a isolated area - only if I'm acquainted with them. Audy

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[h-cost] OT: May I implore your aid, prithee please?

2011-09-17 Thread AVCHASE
About two and a half years ago I was smashed up in an horrendous collision 
which totaled my car and nearly totaled me. Much was broken. All is mended but 
not all is in it's former condition. The only specialty I ever developed in 
over 40 years of costume design has been in the designing of costume for plays 
on the small stage; if that may be termed a specialty. Work for the stage, to 
me is not always 'historical' but should hew to the wind of the mood and 
conditions (including budget, darn it) nor is it of re-enactment quality as 
there is never enough time (or money). Here is my dilemma for which I'm asking 
your considered help. Though I'm getting old and am some battered I'm not 
through. At present I don't want to stand the hours it takes to pattern and 
cut. Or sit the hours to sew most of a show. (My foot still swells) But I do 
want to keep my hand in, exercise my mind, explore a little, learn, maybe make 
a buck. Thank you for your consideration. Audrey Chase

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[h-cost] FOUR DAYS DOWN?

2011-07-13 Thread AVCHASE
Hi All! I've not gotten any posts since July 9. Has no one posted? Is the list 
down? What's up? Audy

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Re: [h-cost] a costumer's term question

2011-04-17 Thread AVCHASE
I'd call them 'precious' as in found trimming stock. They might actually be 
called 'skiving' as are small bits of leather. Put them in a little box. 

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Re: [h-cost] History of Costume text?

2011-03-11 Thread AVCHASE
Bravo, Fran! What a cogent analysis of the problem. 
I have such a hard time getting across to people that theatrical costuming is 
not fashion design or couture or ready to wear or home sewing. It's about the 
play.
Audy

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Re: [h-cost] Alice Cooper Photos

2010-10-26 Thread AVCHASE
Penny, just wonderful. What a dramatic site! Audy

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric - was: Shirt pattern - SCA period - pre-1600

2010-10-18 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, that cloth sounds like old fashioned white cotton feed or flour sacking. 
Sometimes thes old pieces show up at fairs or garage sales. Audy 

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Re: [h-cost] What would my ancestor have worn?

2010-08-22 Thread AVCHASE
Hi,
I'm a me, too here as there is a family genealogy that I've never seen. The 
story is that the ancestor came in 1064 or 1065 as part of W of N's entourage 
and stayed. Also that the current family name 'Chase' is an 
Anglecised(sp?)version of the original. The College of Heralds has the original 
name but want money to part with it. It is said in family that he became a 
baron or was a baron. 
I'd like to know what he, his spouse and children would have worn.
Most of my cousins that have seen the genealogy call it  that old thing. But 
I think it would be fun to know.
Audy

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Re: [h-cost] ping please?

2010-08-09 Thread AVCHASE
Ditto

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Re: [h-cost] Cleaning rust from sewing scissors

2010-07-27 Thread AVCHASE
Fran, use something you usually have on hand - toothpaste. If that won't do it 
try automaotive chrome cleaner. How did that happen? Audy.

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[h-cost] A BLANK OUT?

2010-07-20 Thread AVCHASE
Hi All, Did no one post from 7/16/10 to this afternoon (7/20/10) or was my mail 
box blanked? Guesses, speculations, knowledge? 
Audy

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Re: [h-cost] OT to Victorian re-enactors

2010-07-06 Thread AVCHASE
Hi Ruth ann,

In the early seventies I did that play and,as I recall, we served a plain 
butter cake with a soft white icing. The 'large slice' was precut, marked out 
with toothpick pricks, so it could be sliced easliy and evenly, and served at 
all performances. It was put in the refrigerator after the performance and 
saved for the next one. That was so the actors wouldn't eat it. Also to save 
time and cost. Gyndowlyne never ate a bite because we played under the no 
eating or drinking of milk or sweet products before and during performance as 
eatin these were thought to cause a sticky tongue and throat. Break a leg!

Audy

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Re: [h-cost] slightly OT about support

2010-07-03 Thread AVCHASE
Oh, yes. Wear the corset. A well fitted corset makes a ball gown or even a day 
dress. Try a costume shop that rents that kind of thing if you don't want to 
make it or don't have the time to do that. If you make or buy it for pity's 
sake practice, practice, practice for it makes you improve your posture. You 
will be beautiful.

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[h-cost] MODERN HAIR RECEPTICLE

2010-05-04 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, All:

My Grandmother told me to save my hair in a net bag (for making rats), I should 
make and once a year wash it, sqeeze out the moisture in a towel, and hang to 
air dry. She said I'd have to make new bags to replace the old as silk net 
eventually rots; then along came nylon. However, I never did that. But now I 
save all combings in a recycled boutique tissue box in the back of a drawer. I 
don't save it for rats though. I save it to cut up for potting plants. It's 
nitrogen. I could make rats if desired. 
Frn, should I write a book about all the things my Grandmoter told me, like the 
possible bath, how to change clothes in a moving carriage or sleigh, or how to 
how make the cat stay when moved to a new home?
Best to all, Audy.

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[h-cost] CUTTING KNITS (SWEATERS)

2010-04-22 Thread AVCHASE
Grandmother taught me that to change knits machine sew a grossgrain ribbon of 
the desired length on the line to be cut. Cut below the line. Sew on the 
outside if a rounded finish is desired, turn and hand hem on the ribs. Sew on 
the inside for a more casual look. Use for sleeves, armholes, neck, hems, and 
button closures making sure to use a ribbon for both button holes and button 
attachments.
Hopefully this is useful. Audy 

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Re: [h-cost] A question on sewing fur

2010-03-13 Thread AVCHASE
What I was taught as a child: use a fine leather needle and a waxed thread when 
sewing fur by hand.
I lay fake fur in the carport and chalk the pattern on the reverse then cut 
only the fabric, being careful to cut as little fur as possible.

Audy

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Re: [h-cost] what to name a dressmaker's dummy

2010-03-04 Thread AVCHASE
Mine, presently wearing only a Viking helmet over its stump, had no name. It is 
a donated dial-a-size that shall be from now on, Breezy.

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Re: [h-cost] Dating a couple garments

2010-02-14 Thread AVCHASE
Sylvia,

Dolmans were also popular in the 50's.

On sweaters - short waisted, fitted to the bust, no buttons.

Blouses - many styles.

Coats - cropped and fitted like the sweaters and loose and swinging at hip or 
full length.

Audy

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[h-cost] Corsetery issues

2008-10-04 Thread AVCHASE
Hi All,

If an actress doesn't raise the issue it is wise to ask if there are possible 
limitations. Years ago, costuming Don Juan in Hell' I did the actress playing 
Dona Ana in a quick change when she chooses the age she wants to appear.
The dress had four skirts - a fine cotton underskirt, two skirts of a rough 
brown coarse weave with a yellow apron between the skirts, and an outer skirt 
of lightweight peach taffeta.
The entire dress, including a large wooden rosary with cross weighed eight 
pounds.
The actress was no amateur. The bodice was boned, there was shoulder support 
for the skirt weight but no corset.
At final dress the actress fainted. I was told she fainted the night before in 
the dressing room.
When asked what she thought the problem might be she fessed up that her 
floating ribs had been removed to make a smaller waist.
When asked why she had neither complained or volunteered that info she thought 
she could overcome it.
The fix was simple- change the heavier fabric for rayon liner which brought the 
dress weight down to three pounds and loosen the bodice slightly.
Real actress will suffer anything. The others are inexperienced and complain 
about anything.
Audy 

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[h-cost] FROCK COATS

2008-04-29 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, All,
Thanks so much for the references to good patterns. As was pointed out, I 
failed to say what era I am interested in at this time. I want 19c; 1820's - 
1920's approximately. Audy

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[h-cost] FROCK COAT PATTERNS

2008-04-28 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, All.

Where or from whom do I get the best buy for the money of multi-sized frock 
coat patterns? If you remember, I'm a small stage costume designer and wish to 
make five frock coats for our closet, sizes XS-XL. We don't have much money, 
ever! and I don't want to draft these myself as I don't have newer standard 
sizes for men.

Also a tip on the suppliers of light weight hard finish wool blends would be 
appreciated.

Thank you for your suggestions, Audy.

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[h-cost] D P STANDARDS

2008-04-13 Thread AVCHASE
To all who've addressed this question to date: Thank you all so much. I now 
don't 1) feel all alone 2) feel so abused.

Here is some of how I do a design assignment or project:

Read the script as early as possible, first for impression then for content

Research the author, his era, the era of the play

Read the script again for actions of characters

Line by line read the dialogue for described, prescribed, and proscribed dress

Take into account the stage directions and how or if they apply to the stage 
being used

Assess each character's personality

Talk to the director

Prepare drawings for director's approval

Check with set design on color, exits-entrances, any obstructions, need for 
particular set pieces ( coat rack, etc.)

I do not costume actors; I design uniforms for characters (I do take into 
consideration any physical limitations of the actor)

On this show I got the script the afternoon of auditions and was turned on my 
request for a meeting with director who said she didn't know what she yet and 
she'd get back to me - never happened.

A starter for, not a standard, a precept to work by :never take measurements by 
yourself, always use a chaperone. If working with children do not use other 
children for this, always use an adult. Audy

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[h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-11 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last Thursday. And 
over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to me.
The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said that 
for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast members 
have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just 
assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, 
keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was 
different?
So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. 
She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note 
about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't listen to the 
actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form the actresses. The 
ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before dress and production had 
gotten me no help for a small musical with 48 changes in it. Some very small; 
most changes are full costume though. I found I was being difficult when I said 
there just wasn't time.
The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but were 
more conventional.
Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional 
standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they 
are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and 
practitioners. Audy

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[h-cost] THE SERIOUS COSTUMER

2008-02-27 Thread AVCHASE
Justine,
My dear you are on the right track.
I have a question for you. What and why are you costuming?
 To earn a living; to learn a skill and gain knowledge;to fulfill artistic 
urges;to achieve recognition?, etc.
 Do you want to teach; to draft patterns; to sew; to costume for competitions; 
for plays; for re-enactments; for yourself, etc.?
 Find your dimensions. Find where you want to work.
 I do plays. Now after thirty seven years, mostly on small stage in community 
theatre. Previously I worked small stages in colleges and universities and 
parks and recreation departments of several cities in Los Angeles. Two years I 
did the only work for a high school ever - I costumed Miss Drill Team USA 
competition entries. The first year was a US second place. The next year was a 
US first and an international second. That was for the drill team of which my 
work was only a part.
 I've made very little money often having to carry a second job between 
contracts.
 I didn't want to teach so never applied. I research, in a shallow way (there 
is not a lot time for it in the short prep period)all my plays.
 I've a MFA, UCLA and six respected awards. Re-enactors don't work the way I 
do, that is quick and dirty. There are many different facets to being a 
costume designer. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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[h-cost] RAYMOND MACHINE WORTH

2008-02-18 Thread AVCHASE
Thanks for the info on patent dating. When the machine was checked it was found 
to have patent dates of 1879 and 1880 and was styled as a NEW RAYMOND. I 
haven't seen it yet as I'm tied up with the current show at the theatre.
 I'd love to have a treadle machine as that is what I learned on and sewed, in 
a factory, on late 19thC. or early 20th C. electric powered treadle machines.
I haven't a clue what to offer for it. Ideas anyone? I understand that there 
are pics, which I haven't seen yet, but I don't know how to post them.

Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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[h-cost] Question of Value or worth (OT)

2008-02-15 Thread AVCHASE
Hi all,
At the theatre last night I was asked about the value of old sewing machines. I 
had no idea on this one:
a)it works and has the original finish(es), accessories and attachments
b)manufactured in Guelph, Ontario, Canada in 1861 by Raymond Sewing Machine
c)RSM was purchased in 1912 or 1916 by White Sewing Machine
d)treadle powered and shuttle.

I haven't seen this yet as I'm busy at the theatre and fighting off my 
allergies which deplete my energy. I thought I'd ask you collectors if this is 
worth looking at. Any answers?

It was also described as a heavy old thing.

Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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[h-cost] Whitening age-yellowed fabric

2008-01-08 Thread AVCHASE
Things my Grandmother told me: wash the garment in a mild soap ( not detergent) 
and warm water, rinse, roll in towel to remove excess water, squeezing gently. 
Lay on green grass in the sun turning from time to time. If still yellow, soak, 
after wetting in plain water, in a mild solution of bleach for five to ten 
minutes; rinse throughly and line dry in strong sun. She had no comment about 
what to do if that failed other then to try the washing again. She warned about 
the bleach as the fabric might disintegrate.
I think it would be easier to buy one.
Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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[h-cost] THANK YOU ALL

2007-12-07 Thread AVCHASE
Thanks for the help with show I costumed recently. When I was designing it it 
was not known if the show would go up by itself or with another play that was 
also a winner in the January playwriting festival at Hill Country Community 
Theatre in Central Texas. So I designed it fully and when it was decided the 
two shows would run together I asked the director to choose which costumes he 
would like to see straight through the play.
Well, he didn't pick the 'floozy' dress you all helped me with (I'll save it 
for another show) instead he chose her entrance dress and it was floozy enough 
anyway. This show pleased me more than any I've designed in a long time and 
that made me happy. And thank you all so much for your help. BTW, the show was, 
Under A Cowboy Moon, by Carl L. Williams, who visited from Houston for one 
evening and said he liked the costumes.
We struck on Sunday last. Ruth Anne, it seems as though we do pretty much the 
same thing. If you would like to trade info and tips contact me directly as 
above.
The next vehicle is a ply that covers fifty years from 1898 through 1947 with 
lots of quick changes. It opens in April.
Audy, My best to you all!

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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