[h-cost] 16th Annual Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference
Please forgive the duplicate posts if you belong to multiple lists. We are pleased to announce registration is now open for the 16th Annual Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference. The Conference will be held on March 4-7, 2010 in Harrisburg, PA (USA). We have planned a full schedule of presentations and pre-conference workshops/tours of interest to men and women. The Conference also features extensive displays of original garments, a needlework competition and a juried Marketplace. In celebration of our tenth anniversary as sponsors, we are very pleased to announce the addition of a formal ball to our program. Complete details including registration forms is available on our web site at [url]www.genteelarts.com[/url] We hope you can join us for a great weekend! Regards, Carolann Schmitt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Sometimes what someone tells us is not the best information. :-) The 'classic' women's Garibaldi shirt c.1860-1865 was made from lightweight red wool flannel embroidered in black in scroll patterns. It is cut very full and gathered into a waistband (worn over the waistband of the skirt), with very full sleeves gathered into a cuff, and a small standing collar. Variations of the style included other fabrics - white wool flannel, fine white cotton - but all with the same cut and scroll trim. Garibaldi shirts were high fashion, worn by younger women or VERY fashionable older women, for informal occasions: walks, picnics, boating, at recreational activities. The style is likely one of the LAST that would have been worn by a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class. Although it is simpler in cut and can be easier to fit than other 1860s styles, anyone with a modicum of sewing skills and intellect (can thread a needle and use a pencil) can learn to produce an 1860s garment that would be much more appropriate for this impression. There are dozens of general costume histories that discuss Garibaldi shirts and literally thousands of original images on websites across the country. An Internet search on the term will lead you to many examples. Just be cautious and check the source of the Internet postings. Look for primary sources (Google books) and images identified by reliable institutions and sources. Although I was one once, tread cautiously with the information posted on various reenacting sites. Some of it is very good; unfortunately much of it is best described as myth and misinformation. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of purpl...@optonline.net Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 12:38 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought I am thinking of branching out into early US Civil War, and I was told that 'the easist thing to make is the Garibaldi shirt'. However there were no examples around for anyone to show me. And no reference book/website for them to point me to. Can you please share a pic / web site / pattern with me so I can start creating a prototype Civil War outfit. I am aiming for a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class, if that helps. Katheryne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
The article in the August 2006 edition of The Citizen's Companion is a reprint of an article Karen Crocker originally researched over a dozen years ago. Karen will readily agree continuing research indicates there are portions of that article that are not quite correct. Karen's comments regarding Garibaldis as a garment worn by young ladies is still correct. There is documentation (photographs, primary written sources) of a few mature women wearing the ensemble, however these are VERY fashionable women following the latest style. Continuing research indicates this comment: Also, they were considered undergarments, just as men's shirts were were not worn alone. A Garibaldi waist was worn as an ensemble piece with either a Zouave or bolero jacket , or a Swiss bodice is not correct. Original images of true Garibaldi shirts - colored wool, black braid trim - show them being worn without a jacket. I have several in my files and have examined dozens more. However, a fine white body or waist, similar in cut to a Garibaldi shirt but made from fine white cotton, was frequently worn with a jacket of some style. These white bodies were also worn without a jacket, frequently with a shaped belt, e.g. a Medici waist or Swiss belt (not Swiss bodice as listed in the article). Neither Garibaldi shirts nor white bodies were considered undergarments. Karen's suggest on getting an appropriate one-piece dress and accessorizing it for your needs is still very applicable and very good advice. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dressmakers in SC
I can recommend Lynn Cogdill who lives in Spartanburg, SC. You may contact her at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Carolann Schmitt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 2008 Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference
Good Afternoon - I apologize for the duplicate messages for those who are members of multiple groups. We have posted links on our web site www.genteelarts.com http://www.genteelarts.com/ to information for the 2008 Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference. The information is available as a downloadable document in Word and PDF formats (information) and Excel and PDF formats (registration forms). The documents contain all of the details for next year's Conference. In a few days we will post the web page itself, which will also include photos of some of the workshop projects and additional information on the Angels Project. We're looking forward to seeing old and new friends next March! Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com http://www.genteelarts.com/ Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 6-9, 2008 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
I was the very lucky winner of the original copy of the bulletin. It arrived late last week and I'm enjoying it immensely. A very sincere thanks to Helen for sharing it and all the scans with me and the list. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1860s Conference
(My apologies to those who are members of several lists and may be receiving multiple copies of this message.) This is a friendly reminder that registrations for the 2007 Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference must be post-marked, faxed, emailed or phoned by January 29, 2007 to receive the discounted rate. Registrations received after that date will be charged the full fee; deadline for all reservations is February 10, 2007. We are also pleased to announce that we are offering the junior registration fee to full-time college students as well as to participants age 17 and under. Please note your institution of higher learning on your registration form. While spaces are available for each of the pre-conference workshops and seminars, some of the sessions are full. You are encouraged to register now if you wish to attend a particular session; if the sessions you request are full you will be accepted for your second or third choice of times. Don't forget to include your registration form if you're entering the special competition for the best reproduction of a Civil War era quilted petticoat. Our juried Marketplace will be open to conference participants and the general public on Friday from 11AM-7PM, Saturday from 7:30AM-5:30PM, and Sunday from 8AM-12:30PM. In its thirteenth year, the Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference offers a full program of presentations on the clothing and culture of the mid-19th century, pre-conference workshops, tours and seminars, a juried Marketplace and an extensive display of original garments and artifacts. The conference will be held in Harrisburg (Camp Hill), PA on March 1-4, 2007. The registration fee includes all meals on Saturday and Sunday. Please contact me at the address below with any questions. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] busks with clasps
From Victorians Unbuttoned by Sarah Levitt: In 1853 Caleb Hill, a stay manufacturer of Cheddar, Somerset, registered a version of what was soon to become the standard fastening: a split metal busk, one side bearing studs, locked into 'keyholes' in the other. Many firms followed suit. I haven't had a chance to check the US Patent database to see what they have. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one that actually works? I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Holiday gifts
My costume-related gifts included several books, a lovely selection of ribbons and braids from my h-costume secret Santa, Ann Wass, and sock-knitting pattern software. I'm anxious to see how it interprets original mid-19th century patterns. :-) Carolann Schmitt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1880s Hamburg edging
From Cole's Encyclopedia of Dry Goods: The first machine-made embroidery shipped to the United States was in the year 1853. The goods were consigned to a New York house by S. Hamel, of Hamburg, Germany,, who is directly responsible for the adoption in this country of the name Hamburgs as a descriptive term for Swiss embroidery. It is said he called them by this name in order to make the business world believe it was in Hamburg the goods were manufactured. - Cole, George S. _Cole's Encyclopedia of Dry Goods_. New York: Root Newspaper Association, 1900. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 Does anyone know exactly what Hamburg embroidery (edging, insertion) was? I know the basic dictionary a kind of embroidered work done by machinery on cambric or muslin but I'm trying to find out what distinguishes it from Swiss embroidery, fine embroidery or simply embroidery - when describing cotton embroidered trims and mentioned in 1880s-1900 catalogs and books. What makes it different?? thanks, Melissa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] commercial serger use
It's older than you think! Here's one source from one of the pioneers: http://www.merrow.com/ From the Smithsonian: http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/CF /single-record.cfm?AuthorizedCompany=Merrow%20Machine%20Company The terms serger and overlock are generally used for home sewing, not commercial production. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Eras and places (was hippies)
I did some extensive research on mid-19th century skirt supports (corded petticoats, cage and covered crinolines, etc.) for a presentation last year. Based on manufacturing and sales records, crinolines were widely available and worn anywhere in the country, including the far west. This is amply supported by original photographs, extant crinolines, and commentary in period magazines, newspapers, letters and journals. The average retail price for a crinoline c. 1855-1865 was $0.25-$2.00 each, depending on the overall style and the number of steels. Documentation indicates that the style spread quite rapidly across the country - within a few months at most. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] regional crinoline fashions
I disagree. For every extant pastel colored ballgown *documented* to the South, I can show you one documented to the North, or the Midwest, or the West, or Canada, or Europe. And I can do the same for every buttoned up dress documented to the North or any other region of the country. There are some regional differences in style, but they are minor elements of the overall fashion and stem more frequently from local customs and availability than a if this is pale pink it must be Mississippi trend. One of the most stunning original dresses I've seen is in the collection of the Cincinnati Art Museum: a bright sapphire blue silk taffeta woven a disposition, originally from Gettysburg, PA. Carolann Schmitt, Life-long Gettysburgian [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 When I think of the real daytime wear, the buttoned up hooped gowns in the sepia toned portraits, I think of Gettysburg, PA. That's probably because it's near me and I've done reenactments there, so it's strictly personal. But the fluffy pastel colored ballgowns - that's the south. -Carol ___ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Woven a disposition?
Fabrics that are woven or printed a disposition are designed for a particular use or particular area in a garment, frequently along one edge of a flounce. (Our modern border prints are a distant cousin.) They were particularly popular during the mid-late 1850s, when the technology was at its peak. In addition to printed or woven designs, they were also made with trimmings - braids or fringe - woven into the edge of the fabric; and were often sold with matching or coordinating plain fabric and/or other trimmins. Some were produced with the pattern along the lengthwise edge; others had the pattern produced crosswise. Here are some links to just a few examples of dresses made from these fabrics: http://www.bowesmuseum.org.uk/collections/image.php3?Name=Woman%27s+Dressim age=1989-4-3-cst-2-793.jpg http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/schwaben/schloesser/ludwigsburg/m ode/rundgang/krinolin01.htm http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1089-003.jpg http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=trueid=458194coll_ke ywords=dresscoll_package=0coll_start=561 Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 Woven a disposition? was: regional crinoline fashions What does this mean? Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] regional crinoline fashions
My apologies - I misunderstood what you were saying. :-) Carolann Schmitt On Behalf Of Carol Kocian I was looking at the way certain eras of fashion are associated with an area, which is different than what people were actually wearing. It's not the reality, it's what we perceive based on movies, popular culture, etc. Hippies were everywhere, but now identified with Berkeley. Black hats with buckles on them were not the fashion at Plymouth, Mass, but they're all over the souvenir shops. I'm imagining a what city is this sort of thing based on the historic costume icons. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
