Re: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.
(hitting self over the head with a paper-towel tube...) Of *course*!!! Why didn't I think of the Library of Congress??? Thanks E House! (geez... you'd think after the number of times I've looked at that website the last few years for school stuff, I'd have actually thought to use it for work, wouldn't you?) Thank you all -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.
OK, I admit it - I know a fairly bare minimum about this period. Generic Victorian upper and lower, and generic Edwardian upper/lower both highly corsetted and moving towards flapper wear. But - I've been asked to teach my 4th graders part of their social studies unit for the quarter (I teach Library Media - not social studies), and while history is enough of a interest for me to be able to cover what I *need* to, I realized that clothing had been left out of the unit... and since I'm changing the unit a bit anyway... well, my thought was that the clothing changes between 1890 and 1910 show a heck of a lot about how people both worked and played *and* how many beliefs were rapidly changing... so I'd *love* to include a few pictures that I could show in a PowerPoint, fading from one to another. I've got the same set up for a few pictures (yes, don't worry, well within the Fair Use range of copyright rules) of Baltimore from now back to then... and vice versa... but I have nothing with *people*, beyond one shepherd in Druid Hill Park... and he's not really all that distinctive, y'know? Anyone able to point me to just a few pictures I can use? I'm hoping for male and female, child and adult... from those three general clothing types... well, four really, if I consider general lower working class in there as well. Sigh... this is what I get for coming up with intersesting ideas at the last moment, I guess... -Liz (gotta hit a library again tomorrow... and just my luck, my preferred one is across the street from a very crowded Wine Festival... which means little to no parking available...) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Bottle-green
I've always thought of Bottle green as being somewhere between your typical green glass of the American colonial/ revolutionary period... and what those nasty flies have on them. So of course I had to look and wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn says it is dark to moderate or greyish green The fly? There's a picture at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_bottle_fly I wonder if they were thinking of the color, or the combination of green and brown's overall look... or if it came from something else entirely. -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
I know that should be the case in theory... but I've a linen shirt (embroidered with a synthetic), and a rayon dress that I've bought in the last year - both have dry clean only... and both have been hand washed and delicate cycle cold water (just got a no-agitator top-loader) quite a number of times and they look like new still. There might be a minimal amount of fading, but not so you'd notice unless maybe if you had a slip of the fabric when it was new. I've got older items that are the same way. All of *those*, however have been cheaper and not a needed in a fairly short amount of time... so I've been willing to experiment. This one I'm still not sure what I'll do with - mostly because it *is* black, and mostly rayon. The only reason I figured on hoping for the best (and I may try it after the trip) is because it had the light steam - which indicates that the issue shouldn't be shrinkage, as any steam would affect the material negatively if it were a concern. Oh, actually there's another reason as well... it's feel is rather different from most rayon and rayon blends that I've come across with that label. It's softer - almost feels like it's been washed already... and the chemical itch I often get from trying on new clothes wasn't there. Now I have to figure out whether to dry clean it before the trip or not. One chemical or the other it's going to be a bother. I really wish I had the time to make something out of material I trust... ah well. Thanks all! -Liz From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked in the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and technical desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality Assurance program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer lets manufacturers put a dry clean only tag on a garment. A manufacturer must allow the customer the ability to wash with specific directions (cold water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged by the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then the MFG. can say on their tag Cold water only or Dry clean only etc. Mfgs no longer have the luxury of putting the Dry clean only tag on a garment because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting Use dry bleach when necessary tag on their girl's swimwear. If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something happens, you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not necessarily the store's problem. Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Speaking of feathers in costumes...
Well, it was haute couture only as far back as 2002, but honestly, it's more of a costume than a real dress but the Smithsonian has a golden Minerva dress by Oscar de la Renta in the Treasures of American History exhibit (over in Air Space while American History is closed)... If you want to see an *amazing* job of using feathers on a dress: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267exkey=143pagekey=221 Even those I point it out to who aren't into high fashion, costuming or sewing have generally given it a wow for the amount of work and skill that went into it. -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: current DC exhibits
There's actually one more - the Treasures of American History exhibit at the Air and Space Museum has Jackie Kennedy's inaugural gown, Sandra Day O'Connor's judicial robes, a dress of Mary Todd Lincoln's (I can't remember off the top of my head if that was an inaugural gown, or another), a dress belonging to Margaret Mead (specially made to accomodate her changing dress size every time that she went out on her expeditions), a pair of Marilyn Monroe's gloves (and a pair of Mohammad Ali's boxing gloves), Andrew Jackson's uniform, an outfit of Ray Charles' (gold sequins on black - I suspect they figured the brighter jackets that were on display a year or two ago wouldn't look right in with the other items on display in that area), George Washington's uniform (dress uniform, dating from *after* the American Revolution), a (buffalo?) skin coat belonging to Gen. Custer, a *bunch* of hats dating from the mid 1800s to present-day... a poofy shirt from Seinfeld, Mr. Roger's sweater (one of... reminds me I need to drop the curator a note about that...).. and currently a wedding kimono that belonged to a Japanese immigrant to Hawaii. Hmm... oh, I forgot, the scarecrow costume from the Wizard of Oz, Dorothy's red shoes, a *gorgeous* Oscar de la Renta (sp?) gown (can't imagine painting and attaching all those gold covered feathers!)... I think that's it - - I've got *most* of the collection memorized at this point, but I do tend to forget parts. (*g* forgot one of the guns when I listed them to a visitor this morning - had to find him again to tell him it was *four* rather than three... and that pike and sword to round off the weapons on display). I volunteer as a docent with the Museum of American History - currently only working in that exhibit once a month, while the museum's closed for renovation. Yup - I'm in the DC area - ish - also, but closer to Baltimore. I'd love to get together with folks if there's a get-together, but with two kids and other stuff going on, spare time that works with others is rare. One reason I'm always happy to see those who stop by at MDRF when they do :-) -Liz / Elisabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: velvet and embroidery
Bjarne had a good point I'd forgotten! For *most* embroidery on velvet, you will probably want to use some form of waste canvas or gauze that you can cut away afterwards to help keep the threads from hiding down in the velvet velveteen as well. Good Luck! -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: embroidery on velvet
First off, you *will* see *some* compression happening if you put a hoop on velvet, no matter what you do... second, if you use too small a slate or scroll frame, the same thing will happen. Of course, I can also tell you from experience that attempting to stitch on a piece as large as a skirt piece on a frame is darned difficult. In fact I've had enough difficulty getting to the center of my (rather largeish) seat cushion on my frame at faire that I've ended up making comments from time to time about how I suspect that's why there are more professional broiderers who are male than female... arms are just too short for somethings. Now.. there's hope. I managed to work on velvet a few years ago by using one of those plastic q-snap frames and using terry cloth (you can use another piece of velvet probably instead) to cushion where it is compressed to hold, and provide more 'space' for the nap. Limiting time in the frame and lightly re-fluffing it when off helps as well. You *will* have to stretch out the clips for the frame, and it's horribly non-period, so not real event-friendly, but it will work. Creating embroidery slips and then attaching them to the skirt is period for *some* periods... more than direct embroidery for certain periods and decorative types, in fact. I haven't got a picture of my embroidery frame, but what I created (mostly from scrap wood) fits somewhere square between pictures I've seen for medieval embroidery and mid-1600s work... both of which look *very* similar in pictures/woodcuts, so I'm taking it as reasonably period, and appropriate. Ady B. might have a picture... but I can't remember if she's taken one of the frame at faire in the last two seasons. -Liz (Mistress Mabel Ascomb, embroideress... at MDRF) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re Tudors on Style - was Re: Tudors on Showtime
Speaking of pictures... Ady, if you see this, are you the one responsible for the Mistress Hemyngton and Master Carter (I assume that's him on his knee) picture? I did a double-take when I saw that, not expecting to see anything from the Company (then Guild) of St. George / Hengrave Hall folks. Not to mention it's one of the best of the Dory Gean's black outfit pictures I've seen - I forgot about the broach she was wearing with it until I saw that. Hey, it was *almost* worth the drivel part of the show to see some of the re-enactor pictures... and *some* of the rest was rather amusing as well. (the actual *show* I liked in general... even if aspects of it bug the heck out of me... as a fiction based on fact, don't take it too seriously show... but the Style thing was oh so Style) -Elisabeth (yes, I'm still around, just muttering quietly to myself about lack of time to play with fiber and needles of all sorts beyond quick pick-up/put-down preemie caps I've been doing in free minutes at kids' stuff) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Peau d'Ange
I haven't seen anything lacelike on the dress, unless it's hidden under the beading and metalic embroidery that is under the chiffon they put on at the last minute. That isn't very visible, as the light chiffon covers the sparkley bits to cut the light (apparently the reflections were causing havoc with the TV cameras in part because of the stong lighting they were using at the time). -Elisabeth Martha Oser wrote: By the way... does anyone know what peau dÂ'ange is exactly? So far I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as angelskin. And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it all of the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after looking at that Kennedy dress so much :-) -Elisabeth If you do a Google search for peau d'ange fabric you'll get some hits. Apparently from the few I glanced at, it's a type of lace with a soft texture. Best, -Helena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] A traveling show *partly* about clothing history
I hadn't realized before... but the First Ladies Exhibit from the the Smithsonian's Museum of American History is travelling the country while the museum is closed for renovation... which might make it more accessible to some of you who live further from DC than I do. There are 10 dresses travelling with the show (abbrieveated version of the full exhibit). I do know that Jackie Kennedy's dress isn't with it, as I've been looking at it every 1st Sunday at Air and Space, but other than that I'm not sure which are in it and which aren't. The webpage for the exhibit is at http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38exkey=65 By the way... does anyone know what peau d’ange is exactly? So far I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as angelskin. And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it all of the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after looking at that Kennedy dress so much :-) -Elisabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Smithsonian's National Museum of American History
I *think* that I remembered to let you all know that the museum is closing for renovations in September. I just wanted to add that there are many exhibits closing before that, in preparation (there are quite a number remaining open through Labor Day as well). The Textiles Hall *is* closing this month, although a specific date hasn't been given yet. Finally found the lists of closing and not-closing on the web but I *have* noticed that the closing soon list doesn't *quite* match up with what I got in my docent e-mail (sorry, deleted it...but remember the list as longer... may have included a few specific items from other exhibits or something...). Closing before September 4th: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38exkey=792#closing Remaining open until the museum closes end of day September 4th: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38exkey=792#open Oh.. and the older First Ladies dresses *are* scheduled to be removed from public view some time in July. -Elisabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Smithsonian's National Museum of American History
It's occurred to me that I'd forgotten to make sure I mentioned this on this list. For any of you who have been planning to visit the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, where the First Ladies' dresses are (and right now a suit of Benjamin Franklin's has been on display for a while as well) as well as a number of Presidential clothing pieces, and I believe a few odds and ends in other exhibits as well... The NMAH is going to be closing for a few years' worth of rennovations right after Labor Day (first Monday in September, for those non-US folks here). Also, a number of exhibits will be closing by sometime in July. The FAQs are here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/about/faq.cfm?key=55faqkey=96 (oh, and while I *hope* *hope* *hope* that the rennovations will stay on schedule, one only has to look over at the Portrait Gallery to see that sometimes they don't manage to... so come one, come all and check it out while you can... I doubt that it'd be shorter than the 2 year time span that we've been told.) Hmm... speaking of the National Portrait Gallery... for those of you into American historical costuming, it's scheduled to re-open this summer. July is the date being given. -Elisabeth (I've been a docent there in several of their programs for a number of years now... and yes, I'm keeping track so I can go play there some more when it re-opens, and there *may* be related things for me to do docent-y type-wise while they're closed... we'll see) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Theatre museum in London closing?
The following was sent me a few minutes ago from a friend... Sending e-mail certainly wouldn't hurt! (sent to h-needlework as well, because there is a tie-in with the decoration of costume) -Liz Dear Friends and Colleagues, Some of you may have already heard disturbing rumours about the imminent closure of London's Theatre Museum. This shocking and completely unexpected news has taken the museum staff completely by surprise, and the future now looks grim for the world's greatest collection of British theatrical memorabilia. The VA, which runs the Theatre Museum, argues that no one cares what happens to it. I would urge you and/or anyone else you know who feels strongly about the future of the museum to prove them wrong, and write and protest to the Director of the VA (who's decision this is) at the following address: Mark Jones Director Victoria Albert Museum email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question
I would *love* to know what the dates and assumed origins are (if any) for the knit garments. So far, the earliest I've heard verified made in England (other than Monmouth caps which are coarse-knit then felted/fulled) has been in the 1550s. (I'm guessing that they're the youngest of the items in the display, but... :-) -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
