Re: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory
-Original Message- From: Cat Devereaux [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Jun 13, 2007 4:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory I needed to make a straight-front corset to go with Janet Arnold's 1901 Ribbon Dress for my sister's wedding. I did it minus patters and mocking up on check fabric (to keep the grain though out). Basically I worked from the much earlier laughing moon pattern sheet (didn't have the pattern w/ me) and Corsets and Crinolines. If you look at the partner pieces and drawing... the first thing you really notices is that the straight front corsets have real HIPS! The hip area is not just an extension of smoothing the waist, it's flaring out to embrace a newly discovered sexy part of the woman. G My pieces ended up staying fairly similar on top except for sucking in the bust lines a bit in front, and releasing out the back. In the bottom... that's where the magic happens. I took in as much as I could at the waist area and release in the hip area... release to the sides and back in a fairly even manner. It worked. That part of the body is fleshy and you can move it around w/ just a little containment and not tight-lacing. In my final... the waist area were really thin strips, the hip pieces are giant. By the time the pattern was done, I could see why some of the commercial manufactures went to separate hip pieces, but I had enough interlining I felt safe. If I remember correctly, the biggest back hip pieces had a 1:4 ration. Oh, while making it... I did a bit of temp boning and front and back to keep those lines cleaner while testing the last couple of mock ups. I topped this off with a ruffled corset cover to help fill out the top of the S. My sister's hips didn't need the pad. (And to help keep the hip line clean, I used waist bands about 2- 4. The underskirt was a typical gathered layered skirt with a rope kick panel at the bottom and the outer layer was exactly from Hunissette's circular ruff petticoat These layers all add together to give that shape illusion... and w/o needing to tight lace the corset. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
We applied for our passports at the post office this year (2 for adults that had expired passports and a new one for a minor) in early February and received them in May. Wendy -Original Message- From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Jun 5, 2007 4:45 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI Well, they're not all taking that long. My husband lost his, and when we still had not found it three weeks before our November '06 trip to London, we expedited a new one and got it within ten days. (Guess what we found as soon as we got back?) Although, his was a replacement and not a new one. If you're in a real hurry I recommend: http://www.passportsandvisas.com/ We used them in 99 for our honeymoon passports when the passport agent at the post office told us it was taking longer than 12 weeks for normal applications. As that was cutting it too close to the wedding, we paid the exorbitant rates to have them hand-carried through. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th century dress question embroidery
A true red from madder is difficult, you will get a better red if you use a second dye bath of cochineal or lac after the madder. Wendy -Original Message- From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: May 30, 2007 11:05 AM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century dress question embroidery I would love to embroider it by hand but knowing myself I would never finish it :-( . So I have a few options. Totally embroider it by machine. Or appliques of wool or silk and gold cord stichet on by machine. (I know it is not period but probably the only way for me to make a beautiful dress within reasonable time. And having fun making it. although I am not happy having it to do it this way) Silk velvet would be very nice. The cheapest I found is around 60 euro for a meter and it is white... 1 Meter would hopefully be more than enough. (I could use some scraps for an other project..) I have white silk that I would like to dye for the lining. The lining looks more pink than the red on the dress. I can easily get that pinkish red from the lining with madder but I never got a real red from it.. Should I use some sort of backing for the embroidery? Greetings, Deredere Deredere Galbraith wrote: Hi, Several years ago I found a picture on the internet that I really liked. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Blauw.jpg And several years ago I bought a very nice blue silk. I was wondering if red wool felt and gold cord would work for the embroidery. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip
If you are looking for something other than fabric stuff and you like zoos, Chicago had 2 really nice zoos. You can't go wrong with either Lincoln Park or Brookfield, although Brookfield is larger. Wendy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
I suggest Textile Discount Outlet 2121 West 21st Street, Chicago, IL 60608 (773) 847-0572 Fabulous place, shopped there frequently when I lived in the western suburbs of Chicago. All sorts of fabric, findings, aplliques, beads.. Wendy -Original Message- From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Feb 15, 2007 7:14 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations Speaking of Traveling ... I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th) What should I see there? (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific recommendations?) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
It worked for me and I use Internet Explorer Wendy http://strings-n-strands.blog-city.com/ -Original Message- From: Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 13, 2006 6:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc. I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either. Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: gambeson question
Trigger started out as the proprietary name for a bottom weight poly cotton. It has gotten generalized in the same way as Klenex or Xerox. Wendy Colbert Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukah -Original Message- From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Dec 24, 2005 10:55 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gambeson question Trigger is just a weight/weave definition. It can be made of any fiber. I've usually seen it in cotton. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: playing in period societies?
Rapier (or fencing) in the SCA runs the gamut from those who fence in a style close to modern sport fencing to those who are fairly serious researchers of period techniques of the 15th through 16th C through translation and redaction of period manuals. Wendy -Original Message- From: Jean Waddie [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sep 27, 2005 5:35 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: playing in period societies? The SCA in general does not do period fighting techniques, they have their own style of fighting which has developed from what the society chose as safety precautions (rattan weapons, full armour). You might find some individuals in some areas exploring the old manuals, but that is not mainstream for the SCA. There is also SCA fencing, but I'm not sure where that lies between period techniques and modern sport fencing. Jean A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote It might also be worthwhile to look at historic martial arts (http://www.thehaca.com/, www.mashs.org and similar) for people interested in period play. I know the SCA does some of this but I don't know how invested they are in true period fighting techniques - I fence with MASHS and their devotion to the old manuals can be as fervent as some of the h-costume memberships adherence to primary costume sources. And they've got to have *something* to fence in! Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bran
Bran is fed to horse in the form of a mash for a light feeding. You can get bran at a feed store. Wendy -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Jul 29, 2005 1:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran Technically speaking, the bran would have been a waste product left over from processing grain. It would be what was left after cleaning and winnowing. It wouldn't have been the whole grain (wheat, barley, whatever). I suppose you could pop out to the store and buy a box of bran (not bran cereal, just the bran) but it would be easier (and less expensive) to go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc and just ask them if you can have the leavings of their wood sawing area. They might look at you a little funny, but I'm sure they'd be happy to get rid of it. Just a thought, Karen Seamstrix -- Alex Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but more of a language question. Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century art/artifacts and records as I can. My base sources include the basic doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or American, and therefore I ask this question. Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a specific grain type? The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with bran or sawdust. While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting together in the next two weeks. and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English and 1570's Italian for just a few of them. alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
