Re: [h-cost] steam iron source in US
JoAnn's? Sometimes Hancock's? They carry the Rowenta version. http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=95070PRODID=70935source=search Right now it's on sale. I don't have one of those yet, and am not really considering it right now, so cannot comment on how well it works. Roger Kay Shelton wrote: I bought my EuroPro, which has a separate steam reservoir, at Tuesday Morning. I like it a lot! Kay Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find one. Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I have a Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen (which is more than I do!) Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate machining!!) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion
A sloper is the basic pattern from which other patterns are designed. (http://www.sew-whats-new.com/sewinglessons/sloper.shtml) It's also sometimes called the basic body block. A discussion of them can be found here - http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00036.asp . Slopers of various sorts can be used for a wide variety of clothing types. Certain corset patterns can be made using the standard two-dart sloper, which is probably why it was suggested. Darts would have to be split and pivoted, but that's not terribly difficult. Some of the pattern companies make patterns for the basic sloper, although they may not call them that. Those patterns typically include instructions for fitting the sloper properly. There's a lot of fitting and re-fitting involved. If you've got a sewing group anywhere near you, Coni Almaden-Crawford gives lectures on how to make and use slopers; her schedule is posted here: http://www.fashionpatterns.com/schedule.html Roger Becky wrote: New term for me... what's a sloper? - Original Message - From: SPaterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 7:12 PM Subject: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion Have you tried using your own basic block (sloper)as the basis for the corset and drawing in the corset lines as applicable - (yes, there is more to this process than just drawing in the lines, there is dart manipulation and taking off the required amounts to change the shape..etc) I can imagine you are frustrated trying to take a corset for an unknown shape size and alter it for your own...I know I wouldn't be bothered... I'd rather manipulate my own shape to achieve the correct corset. Just a suggestion Sarah Paterson - Original Message - I was looking at this website to find out the price of custom made corsets, as I'm getting tired of the number of times I've needed to alter the corset pattern I'm currently working on (the 1844 corset in Corsets and Crinolines, the bust is way too big I'm on my third round of alterations to reduce it) I can't afford to buy a corset, Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Kalamazoo conference
Robin Netherton wrote: Kalamazoo is an academic conference, and geared to the academic researcher. It is not a re-enactment event. However, quite a few re-enactors who are interested in scholarly research in medieval studies do go there, with the understanding that they are there as students/scholars. The conference is hard to get to and expensive, but if this is up your alley, it is a heady and rewarding experience. The $125 registration fee is not that expensive. I know I've paid quite a bit more than that to go to some conferences in other fields of study. It's a bit daunting to pay for the hotel room and travel expenses, but really, it's not as bad as all that, especially if you partner with someone else for the hotel room. And if I was in Kalamazoo or within a few hours of there that weekend, I'd go. Just looking through the list of sessions, I'd have a hard time deciding which sessions to attend, but I'd go. The Old Clothes, New Tools sessions are rather enticing, but there are a host of others I'd love to attend also. Roger ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: self employment tax question
Go look at Schedule SE for the form 1040 - http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f1040sse.pdf. The thing is, that the amount she is paid will change, but she has to pay her own taxes on it; most companies don't withhold on 1099s, as the consultant/contractor is responsible for that. In addition, changing from employed to self-employed imposes an accounting burden on the contractor. 1040ES forms will be due, and there may be minimum percentages (as someone else has commented; the percentage may increase from 10% to 28% just because of self-employment). Because the amount paid goes up, the Adjusted Gross Income goes up, even though the amount that's added in to compensate for SE is coming out on Sched SE, it still raises the AGI (go ahead. Try it. If you made 2 employed, and 21530 self-employed (that 7.65%), your income tax amount rises by a chunk, leaving you with less), before the SE taxes come out again (they're not deductible, for some reason). So you need to compensate for that, too; if you don't, you lose money going to self-employment. I trust that's clear as mud. One good thing to do is get some tax software and figure out what's going to happen and how much you need to break even. It's not just a simple add 7.65% - would that it were. There's a reason so many CPAs have lucrative tax businesses. Roger Nancy Millis-MacHaffie wrote: Hi, all, May I ask where the 15% increase comes in? The 7.65% Social Security/Medicare employee portion has already been withheld from her paycheck, so that will not make a difference in her net pay. (Except for possible Medical FSA plans/pre tax insurance reductions and the like) There is the employer portion of 7.65% which will now be payable by her and will be an increase in taxes paid. Is there a new or different tax that my husband and I may have missed and not paid (yikes!!!) Or am I assuming incorrectly that she's not trying to match her hourly wage after tax? Anxiously awaiting an answer, Nancy MM :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
Yup... Coni Almaden-Crawford, at http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ gives seminars on patternmaking and draping and has a pattern line based on the figure of a mature woman. The seminar she gave here in Fresno was *really* informative, and I got a lot out of it (bought both her books, too). Roger Joannah Hansen wrote: One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem. And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues. ) Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
Such as http://www.mytwindressforms.com/how.htm ? Roger WickedFrau wrote: Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you have a little information, about what materials will be used and what the process is. I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video... Tania Gruning wrote: Hi Bjarne. My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] English underwear (was: Italian Underwear)
Generally established as true. Yes, England is cold. And, no, not everybody wore 70 pounds of clothing (I exaggerate!). But - Go to http://costume.dm.net/overview.html and read. There could be 8 layers of cloth (or more), and while many of them could be silk or linen, in cold weather you can bet there was wool also. That site (http://costume.dm.net) is an excellent one to peruse, particularly for doing English 16th century. Roger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't wear drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I usually do English. And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England. It gets COLD there. Thanks for your forbearance, Tea Rose In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST) From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Italian Underwear I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator, knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair of stockings and a pair of chopines. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
I personally use a narrow-hem presser foot if the linen is light enough (pick a scrap and test it). I got my NH presser foot from one of those sew-n-vac places for a few dollars; most places that carry presser feet have them for not very much more (the Viking dealer here carries them at $15 or so, as I recall). Roger Kelly Grant wrote: If the linen is really fine, I'd suggest a hand rolled hem. Most of the time, the standard hemming techniques work with linen. Linen is one of those yummy fabrics that just does what you ask it to. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: angelalazear [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:18:50 -0800 When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it? A friend has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of any 'tricks offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques. Thanks in advance, angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes Theatrical Costume Design Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech... All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram W. Shakespeare http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] More info museum pictures
Thanks! That helped. Deredere Galbraith wrote: Some more info on the pictures http://mystictimes.nl/Gallery/Gallery.html Roger ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: gamby question
Where would I find documentation on this? Not questioning your statements - I'd like to know the sources for the information. I went to the site (http://paddedarmour.deborahloughcostumes.com/books.html), noted the four books mentioned; are those the sources for the information you reference below? Or are there others? I'm not interested in the padded armor - I'm interested in some of the other details. Roger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At the end of the 14th century and start of the fifteenth, padding was all colours under the sun (green, red, blue and grey seem to have been the most popular - but yellows, oranges and assorted others can be seen in manuscript illustrations, and the coat armour of the black prince in canterbury cathedral has the royal arms on it in velvet). snip there are references in the clothing accounts of the black prince to fustian and 'cotton wool' (i.e. raw cotton fibre) being some of the materials used. references from the french of rows of english archers in white (though it's not 100% clear whether this refers to a white english livery, or a jack). a reference in the accounts of a polish count to the purchase of fustian, cotton and black velvet for the making of a padded coat - and chains to run down each quilted tube. records of a booming cotton industry in southern germany. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
I had the same problem with my old Sunbeam. Roger Diana Habra wrote: My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. When behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing. I love how my Rowenta presses (and the steam is great) but the spitting is SOOO annoying! I went to press out my tablecloth yesterday and there was water everywhere!! This is my second one and I can't recommend them. I might just go get me a Sunbeam even though my iron isn't dead yet because I am tired of the problems. And it seems like an iron would be such a simple device!! Who knew? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
No, ME! Not that I need 14 yards of green wool. However, I think I'd make doublet, trews, perhaps a tunic, and a cloak. The cloak, I'd line with a medium-weight linen; t-shirt weight does seem a bit on the light side. Roger Althea Turner wrote: um, ... send it to me? *grin* it sounds like lovely tunic and overgown type stuff. Althea On Oct 14, 2005, at 12:18 PM, Dawn wrote: I've got 14 yards of plain medium-dark green (somewhere between emerald and forest) wool. It's lovely and soft and about t-shirt weight. I thought I might make cloaks out of it, but it seems a little light. What would you do? Any time, any place... Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
