Re: [h-cost] Need details
When I reviewed my sketch I came up with these questions that might need to be answered before I get started. 1. Tabs at the waist- does the dress have the beaded girle or not? 2. If the underpinning has tabs should the outter dress have tabs? 3. If the waist has tabs should the hsoulders be the same technique? 4. Should the entire unders kirt that shows doe=wn the front be the same fabric or just the front panle that shows? 5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it drags on the ground? I plan to have several types of sleeves to match the weather. I may create a doublet for the colder days. but that is far down the road. - Original Message - From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details My Renaissance dress is similar to this one: Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher front with a divided skirt. http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG OK, so I uploaded it already The v left between the bands of embreoidery at the centre front is a little odd, but you can clearly see the satin beneath is not seamed at all nor is the horizontal band across the top interupted. This is more usual in French bodices of this time (compare to other Clouet paintings. Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool. I also found a great reproduction of the portrait of Eleanora di Toledo in pink, you can easily see her partlet and how the braid used on it was used for her hair (though possibly a wider one in the hair net) and was overlaid with a black ribbon for the partlet. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/235 - Release Date: 19/01/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Need details
-Original Message- Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool. parure? De I'm not the one who use the word above, but I'll tell you what it means to me. Literally ornament (French). I've never heard or read the word in assn with 16th c costume. It's quite popular among us Victorians to indicate an ensemble of jewelry, usually a matched set of e.g. earrings, necklace, bracelet. There's probably a technical meaning around, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
Regarding the word parure Obviously, it came from the French. My Multi dictionnaire says an ornament, or something that embellishes. The Petit Robert says what is used to decorate, or the whole attire of a person including jewelry, or small objects serving to ornate clothing, or a set of cloth (tablecloths or underwear). The Petit Larousse, weirdly enough, is the only one that has the meaning of a set of jewelry made to be worn together, which is the meaning *I* usually think of when I encounter that word in a costuming context - I know it was used in the Napoleonian era, at least. My other usual sources don't help much, sorry. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher front with a divided skirt. http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG OK, so I uploaded it already parure? De http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9058606 Google is your friend by the way;) michaela -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/236 - Release Date: 20/01/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
IT has been suggested that I research costume trims for the period from which I want to make a dress. I like the portraits Elizabeth Values, Katherine Parr so that is between 1550 to 1580 period. If I use the Katherine Parr dress for sure then the date is narrowed down. Any suggestions as to WHAT to do with this part of my dress. Sketch has been posted earlier. http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg is a bit thick for what I want. I want a thinner, warm weather verision and different sleeves. - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 9:00 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details When I reviewed my sketch I came up with these questions that might need to be answered before I get started. 1. Tabs at the waist- does the dress have the beaded girle or not? 2. If the underpinning has tabs should the outter dress have tabs? 3. If the waist has tabs should the hsoulders be the same technique? 4. Should the entire unders kirt that shows doe=wn the front be the same fabric or just the front panle that shows? 5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it drags on the ground? I plan to have several types of sleeves to match the weather. I may create a doublet for the colder days. but that is far down the road. - Original Message - From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details My Renaissance dress is similar to this one: Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher front with a divided skirt. http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG OK, so I uploaded it already The v left between the bands of embreoidery at the centre front is a little odd, but you can clearly see the satin beneath is not seamed at all nor is the horizontal band across the top interupted. This is more usual in French bodices of this time (compare to other Clouet paintings. Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool. I also found a great reproduction of the portrait of Eleanora di Toledo in pink, you can easily see her partlet and how the braid used on it was used for her hair (though possibly a wider one in the hair net) and was overlaid with a black ribbon for the partlet. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/235 - Release Date: 19/01/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
I like to make wool bias tape from something densely woven, then use it, with a facing of polished cotton for the hem...since polished cotton is difficult to get around here, sometimes I use wacky printed quilters cotton. First off, you make the hem facing, if your skirt is shaped, it will need to be shaped too...mine are usually cut from straight panels. I stitch it, wrong sides together, around the bottom of the skirt, about 1/4 from the cut edge. I then fold under the top edge of the cotton 1/4 and stitch it down, using a running stitch. Then you make the bias tape, I use about 1 widths. I fold and press it in half, lengthwise. Then encase the cut edges of the hem and stitch it down. In the late Rennaisance they used anything from Linen to polished wool to face their hems, women in the Victorian era were still facing hems. It makes sense as the facing is usually made of cheaper fabric, takes the abuse, and can be replaced often. When I worked at the Halifax Citadel, a Victorian era Fort, the dresses on the soldier's wives took a lot of abuse, hem facings would last three or four years, hem tapes would last two to three years. Hope that helps a bit... Kelly/estela 5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it drags on the ground? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
Quoting michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher front with a divided skirt. http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG OK, so I uploaded it already did you take it back down already? I get a 404-not found error. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Need details
My Renaissance dress is similar to this one: Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area? Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like the Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in the front. Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the period of 1565 -1580. I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like. I'll post it as soon as I scan the sketch. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
The second link went to a French site. I do not have access or do not understand what to do. My French is very rusty. Please explain what to do or translate it for me so I can. It doesn't matter to me if it's in French. I can always find a translator for a passage or try to do it myself. I'd have to look up y school text book. But I can if I have to. Thanks for the picture. I do rmemeber someone having details of this dress sometime ago. They discussed the covers for the ties on the sleeves and how to make the spiral cut sleeves. I think I can make it iwth what I have but details will make it easier. If someone knows of the diary for this dress, please post it to me. - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:57 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need details Here is a bigger picture that might help. http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg If it is small, click on the picture and it will enlarge. Someone had a dress diary online for this. The partlet seems to be a lattice of pearls and gems connected to a sheer material. This Portrait is Isabel Valois, French. It appears to have an opening in the front. Most portraits I have seen of French gowns are usually in the front but I haven't been about to figure out the solid section between the embroidered bands. These are done by Clouet. Click on Notice complete, which will take you to that particular pictures info. Then click the picture to enlarge. http://www.culture.gouv.fr/public/mistral/joconde_fr?ACTION=CHERCHERFIELD_1 =AUTRVALUE_1=CLOUET%20FrançoisDOM=AllREL_SPECIFIC=1IMAGE_ONLY=CHECKED (Sorry haven't figured out snipurl) There are some with front opening. De PS. been looking into making this gown as well.:) -Original Message- My Renaissance dress is similar to this one: Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area? Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like the Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in the front. Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the period of 1565 -1580. I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like. I'll post it as soon as I scan the sketch. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
My Renaissance dress is similar to this one: Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area? Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like the Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in the front. Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the period of 1565 -1580. I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like. I'll post it as soon as I scan the sketch. I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher front with a divided skirt. I'll edit the pics and upload them later tonight. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/235 - Release Date: 19/01/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Need details
At 08:49 PM 1/19/2006, you wrote: Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Here is a bigger picture that might help. http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg If it is small, click on the picture and it will enlarge. That's probably the *best* copy of this paintings that I think I've seen! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ When you look closely at the sleeves, you can see that they have long diagonal slashes edged with gold braid (or laced as the contemporary term is). The sleeves have sometimes been misinterpreted as spiral-cut. This is one of my favorite portraits (I have a nice large color picture in one of my books). Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume