Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread Becky
When I reviewed my sketch I came up with these questions that might need to 
be answered before I get started.

1. Tabs at the waist- does the dress have the beaded girle or not?
2. If the underpinning has tabs should the outter dress have tabs?
3. If the waist has tabs should the hsoulders be the same technique?
4. Should the entire unders kirt that shows doe=wn the front be the same 
fabric or just the front panle that shows?
5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it 
drags on the ground?


I plan to have several types of sleeves to match the weather. I may create a 
doublet for the colder days. but that is far down the road.


- Original Message - 
From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details





My Renaissance dress is similar to this one:
Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565
http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html



I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up
the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher
front with a divided skirt.


http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG
OK, so I uploaded it already

The v left between the bands of embreoidery at the centre front is a 
little

odd, but you can clearly see the satin beneath is not seamed at all nor is
the horizontal band across the top interupted. This is more usual in 
French

bodices of this time (compare to other Clouet paintings.

Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool.

I also found a great reproduction of the portrait of Eleanora di Toledo in
pink, you can easily see her partlet and how the braid used on it was used
for her hair (though possibly a wider one in the hair net) and was 
overlaid

with a black ribbon for the partlet.
michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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RE: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread Cin
-Original Message-
Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool.

parure?
De

I'm not the one who use the word above, but I'll tell you what it means to me.
Literally ornament (French). I've never heard or read the word in
assn with 16th c costume.  It's quite popular among us Victorians to
indicate an ensemble of jewelry, usually a matched set of e.g.
earrings, necklace, bracelet.  There's probably a technical meaning
around, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin

Regarding the word parure

Obviously, it came from the French. My Multi dictionnaire says an 
ornament, or something that embellishes. The Petit Robert says what is 
used to decorate, or the whole attire of a person including jewelry, or 
small objects serving to ornate clothing, or a set of cloth (tablecloths or 
underwear). The Petit Larousse, weirdly enough, is the only one that has 
the meaning of a set of jewelry made to be worn together, which is the 
meaning *I* usually think of when I encounter that word in a costuming 
context - I know it was used in the Napoleonian era, at least.


My other usual sources don't help much, sorry. 


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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread michaela

  I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided
up
  the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a
stomacher
  front with a divided skirt.

   http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG
  OK, so I uploaded it already

 parure?

 De


http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9058606
Google is your friend by the way;)

michaela



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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread Becky
IT has been suggested that I research costume trims for the period from 
which I want to make a dress. I like the portraits Elizabeth Values, 
Katherine Parr so that is between 1550 to 1580 period. If I use the 
Katherine Parr dress for sure then the date is narrowed down.
Any suggestions as to WHAT to do with this part of my dress. Sketch has been 
posted earlier.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg is a bit thick for what I 
want. I want a thinner, warm weather verision and different sleeves.
- Original Message - 
From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details


When I reviewed my sketch I came up with these questions that might need 
to be answered before I get started.

1. Tabs at the waist- does the dress have the beaded girle or not?
2. If the underpinning has tabs should the outter dress have tabs?
3. If the waist has tabs should the hsoulders be the same technique?
4. Should the entire unders kirt that shows doe=wn the front be the same 
fabric or just the front panle that shows?
5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it 
drags on the ground?


I plan to have several types of sleeves to match the weather. I may create 
a doublet for the colder days. but that is far down the road.


- Original Message - 
From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need details





My Renaissance dress is similar to this one:
Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565
http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html


I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided 
up
the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a 
stomacher

front with a divided skirt.


http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG
OK, so I uploaded it already

The v left between the bands of embreoidery at the centre front is a 
little
odd, but you can clearly see the satin beneath is not seamed at all nor 
is
the horizontal band across the top interupted. This is more usual in 
French

bodices of this time (compare to other Clouet paintings.

Oh, I just noticed the wires through the pearls in her parure. Very cool.

I also found a great reproduction of the portrait of Eleanora di Toledo 
in
pink, you can easily see her partlet and how the braid used on it was 
used
for her hair (though possibly a wider one in the hair net) and was 
overlaid

with a black ribbon for the partlet.
michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread kelly grant
I like to make wool bias tape from something densely woven, then use it, 
with a facing of polished cotton for the hem...since polished cotton is 
difficult to get around here, sometimes I use wacky printed quilters cotton.


First off, you make the hem facing, if your skirt is shaped, it will need to 
be shaped too...mine are usually cut from straight panels. I stitch it, 
wrong sides together, around the bottom of the skirt, about 1/4 from the 
cut edge.  I then fold under the top edge of the cotton 1/4 and stitch it 
down, using a running stitch.
Then you make the bias tape, I use about 1 widths. I fold and press it in 
half, lengthwise. Then encase the cut edges of the hem and stitch it down.


In the late Rennaisance they used anything from Linen to polished wool to 
face their hems, women in the Victorian era were still facing hems.  It 
makes sense as the facing is usually made of cheaper fabric, takes the 
abuse, and can be replaced often.


When I worked at the Halifax Citadel, a Victorian era Fort, the dresses on 
the soldier's wives took a lot of abuse, hem facings would last three or 
four years, hem tapes would last two to three years.


Hope that helps a bit...
Kelly/estela
5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when 
it drags on the ground?

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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]:




 I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided

up

 the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a

stomacher

 front with a divided skirt.

  http://glittersweet.com/DSCN9267.JPG
 OK, so I uploaded it already




did you take it back down already?  I get a 404-not found error.

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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[h-cost] Need details

2006-01-19 Thread Becky
 My Renaissance dress is similar to this one:
Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565 
http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html
Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area?
Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like the 
Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in the front. 
Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the period of 1565 
-1580.
I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like. I'll 
post it as soon as I scan the sketch.
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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-19 Thread Becky
The second link went to a French site. I do not have access or do not 
understand what to do. My French is very rusty. Please explain what to do or 
translate it for me so I can. It doesn't matter to me if it's in French. I 
can always find a translator for a passage or try to do it myself. I'd have 
to look up y school text book. But I can if I have to.

Thanks for the picture.
I do rmemeber someone having details of this dress sometime ago. They 
discussed the covers for the ties on the sleeves and how to make the spiral 
cut sleeves. I think I can make it iwth what I have but details will make it 
easier.

If someone knows of the diary for this dress, please post it to me.
- Original Message - 
From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:57 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need details



Here is a bigger picture that might help.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg
If it is small, click on the picture and it will enlarge.
Someone had a dress diary online for this.
The partlet seems to be a lattice of pearls and gems connected to a sheer
material.
This Portrait is Isabel Valois, French. It appears to have an opening in 
the

front. Most portraits I have seen of French gowns are usually in the front
but I haven't been about to figure out the solid section between the
embroidered bands.
These are done by Clouet. Click on Notice complete, which will take you to
that particular pictures info. Then click the picture to enlarge.
http://www.culture.gouv.fr/public/mistral/joconde_fr?ACTION=CHERCHERFIELD_1
=AUTRVALUE_1=CLOUET%20FrançoisDOM=AllREL_SPECIFIC=1IMAGE_ONLY=CHECKED
(Sorry haven't figured out snipurl)
There are some with front opening.

De
PS. been looking into making this gown as well.:)
-Original Message-
My Renaissance dress is similar to this one:
Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565
http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html
Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area?
Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like
the Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in 
the
front. Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the 
period

of 1565 -1580.
I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like.
I'll post it as soon as I scan the sketch.


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Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-19 Thread michaela
My Renaissance dress is similar to this one:
Elisabeth von Valois Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1565
http://www.mauritia.de/de/renaissance/elisabethvalois.html
Does anyone have details of the front and partlet area?
Also this one looks like it is divided in the front, but not exactly like
the Venetian courisan type dress. I'd rather have a dress that opens in the
front. Are there any other examples of front opening dresses from the period
of 1565 -1580.
I've used various styles to make my own combination of the parts I like.
I'll post it as soon as I scan the sketch.

I have a photo of a great picture of this, the bodice is *not* divided up
the front. It is much like other bodices that probably have a stomacher
front with a divided skirt.

I'll edit the pics and upload them later tonight.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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RE: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-19 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 08:49 PM 1/19/2006, you wrote:

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Here is a bigger picture that might help.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg
If it is small, click on the picture and it will enlarge.


That's probably the *best* copy of this paintings that I think I've
seen!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


When you look closely at the sleeves, you can see that they have long 
diagonal slashes edged with gold braid (or laced as the 
contemporary term is).  The sleeves have sometimes been 
misinterpreted as spiral-cut.


This is one of my favorite portraits (I have a nice large color 
picture in one of my books).



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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