Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion
Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15/11/2005 20:28 wrote: I always edge the chemise in lace rather than sewing the lace to the dress, because the chemise is much easier to launder. With the actresses in make-up, the lace gets soiled easily but the dress usually stays pretty clean, and if the actress perspires this also affects the chemise much more than the costume, so washing the chemise keeps the whole costume looking clean and smelling fresh. ...which of course is exactly how it worked in period. __ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] chemise construktion
Hi, I am a little embarrased to ask, because i really aught to know and have made this before, but actually i never made a chemise before because i always just edged my dresses with lace. But i want to construkt after Jean Hunniset's chemise. My lady meassures 21 inches from under the arms and over the bust. I suppose this should be my meassure for the front and back pieces then + 2 inches for movement. Is this correkt? Do you think i should add the lace frills to the sleaves, or should i just sew it to the dress sleaves? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion
Hi, Thanks for taking the time for this. I also have ben thinking it would be silly to add the engageantes to the chemise, as it always is going to be washed after each use, and therefore would be more labout to iron the laces of the sleaves. I want to make a casing for a drawstring along the neckline, so that it can be perfectly fitted to the dress neckline. I will use 2 inches extra, Thanks for this Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 6:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion In a message dated 11/15/2005 11:21:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My lady meassures 21 inches from under the arms and over the bust. I suppose this should be my meassure for the front and back pieces then + 2 inches for movement. Is this correkt? * I'd add more that 2. Remember, in the period the cut reflects a time when things were not really cut as we think of it today, but came off the loom in rectangles and squares. Not all chemises add the triangular pieces for extra room in the hips and at the hem. It would then be a straight tube the measurement of the hip area and hem. You don't need to be THAT primitiveshaping is allowed. But I'd go a little fuller than usual. It all gets smashed under the corset, true, but sometimes the neck of the chemise gets drawn up by a cord in a casing ... Not as much as a ruffle...but a bit. *** Do you think i should add the lace frills to the sleaves, or should i just sew it to the dress sleaves? *** Both is done in the period. I'd put them on the dressunless you see some chemise sleeve peaking out from under the dress' sleeve.which you do in the 1780s and 90s. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion
At 16:14 15/11/2005, you wrote: Hi, I am a little embarrased to ask, because i really aught to know and have made this before, but actually i never made a chemise before because i always just edged my dresses with lace. But i want to construkt after Jean Hunniset's chemise. My lady meassures 21 inches from under the arms and over the bust. I suppose this should be my meassure for the front and back pieces then + 2 inches for movement. Is this correkt? Do you think i should add the lace frills to the sleaves, or should i just sew it to the dress sleaves? Your lady may need a little more in the width of the main pieces Bjarne. Jean's chemise is made to fit a 91-96 cm chest, (36-38) and you will find anyone bigger needs a bit more or it is very snug. Because you are making a corset, and there should not be a lot of spare fabric under it, 2-3 maximum should be all you will need. You will not need extra for ease or movement because of the corset. Do also check the sleeves, as I find that they are rather snug too. You can use a casing for a draw string, but it also helps to put the corset on the unfinished chemise, pull down the extra, and cut the neckline once the corset is on. The sleeves sometimes have a draw string too, or the ends are left loose on the binding and tied. Do contact me off list if you want - I make these all the time. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion
Bjarne, my reply about the lace frills is from a costumer and considers practicality rather than necessarily being authentic, but for what it's worth: I always edge the chemise in lace rather than sewing the lace to the dress, because the chemise is much easier to launder. With the actresses in make-up, the lace gets soiled easily but the dress usually stays pretty clean, and if the actress perspires this also affects the chemise much more than the costume, so washing the chemise keeps the whole costume looking clean and smelling fresh. Depending on how carefully the actress dresses, the lace edging may or may not be as precisely lined up with the sleeve and neckline edges as you'd want, but the ease of care is more important to me. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 15, 2005 11:14 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] chemise construktion Hi, I am a little embarrased to ask, because i really aught to know and have made this before, but actually i never made a chemise before because i always just edged my dresses with lace. But i want to construkt after Jean Hunniset's chemise. My lady meassures 21 inches from under the arms and over the bust. I suppose this should be my meassure for the front and back pieces then + 2 inches for movement. Is this correkt? Do you think i should add the lace frills to the sleaves, or should i just sew it to the dress sleaves? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] chemise construktion
I am assuming that this is a 1700s outfit. (got in the topic late)a suggestion and not this is how it's done. If you have a double row of lace/ruffle on the sleeve, you could have the lace/ruffle that is near the skin sewn to the chemise and the top lace/ruffle sewn to the dress. -Original Message- Bjarne, my reply about the lace frills is from a costumer and considers practicality rather than necessarily being authentic, but for what it's worth: I always edge the chemise in lace rather than sewing the lace to the dress, because the chemise is much easier to launder. With the actresses in make-up, the lace gets soiled easily but the dress usually stays pretty clean, and if the actress perspires this also affects the chemise much more than the costume, so washing the chemise keeps the whole costume looking clean and smelling fresh. Depending on how carefully the actress dresses, the lace edging may or may not be as precisely lined up with the sleeve and neckline edges as you'd want, but the ease of care is more important to me. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
