Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions
Lower the sleeve cap curve. If you look at the garment in the flat I'll bet the sleeves naturally lay pointed straight down. Rotate the sleeve up until you get the motion/position you want. keeping the armhole opening as small as possible will help with that too. alex From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting issues with it. http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg Here's a bad pic of me wearing it: http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my hair out of my face without difficulty. Dawn -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions
Dawn-- You can put a gusset under the arms. That would help a lot. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting issues with it. http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg Here's a bad pic of me wearing it: http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my hair out of my face without difficulty. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions
I have encountered several similar problems and found out a good solution which I very frequently use when I want a tight-fitting sleeve but a good range of motion without too much bulk under the arm, which would be produced by a very shallow sleeve head used in medieval and some later periods. It is kind of trick I first saw in a pattern drafting manual. You might not be able to use it for this sleeve as you won't have enough space to change the pattern shape, but you might use it some other time. The point is lowering the sleeve head but hiding the excess bulk (necessary for free movement) under the arm. You take a regular, tight fitting sleeve and do alternations as shown here (all in cm): http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/sleeve.gif You make a circle with a 5cm radius around the two top ends of the sleeve and draw a new line from the top, joining these circles. You should measure the arm circumefernces on the bodice pattern and use these with some ease on the sleeve or just measure the original circumference of the sleeve and transfer it to the new line. It is a bit difficult to sew the sleeve into the armscye, you'll need a lot of darts on the bodice armhole. The resulting shape can look odd, but works pretty well without a too small armscye and bulk. This is the resulting look of the sleeve: http://www.sartor.cz/images/01-01-02-08_b.jpg She could raise her arms without any difficulty: http://www.sartor.cz/images/01-01-02-08_c.jpg Under the arm, it looks a bit like the grandes assiettes, if you look closely on the second picture, you'll be able to see it. Unfortunately I don't have the dress here to make some more closer pictures of it. Enjoy, Zuzana ___ Sartor...custom-made costumes www.sartor.cz --- On Fri, 8/22/08, Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 8:36 PM I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting issues with it. http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg Here's a bad pic of me wearing it: http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my hair out of my face without difficulty. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions .........How I'd try to fix it.....
It looks to me as though the pattern illustration shows the neckline sitting higher on the shoulder, so the shoulder seam actually falls atop the shoulder (and the neckline is somewhat squarer in appearance). If you put the shoulder seam just on your shoulder, would that give you any better range of motion? If not, perhaps the sleeve cap has to be lengthened? (Wild speculation.) --Ruth Anne Baumgartner gypsy scholar and amateur costumer On Aug 22, 2008, at 2:52 PM, Melody Watts wrote: I'd revert to old knowledge, adjust the shoulder fit to correct lay, then split open the under arm of the sleeve and add a gusset. Its amazing they never actually try out these patterns in real life before running them off. Simplicity had the same problem with one of their most popular Lord Of the Rings patten. Guess Elf girls never had to raise an arm either. Hope that helps Melody Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting issues with it. http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg Here's a bad pic of me wearing it: http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my hair out of my face without difficulty. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions
Seems to me like the problem is that this doesn't fit you as it should, judging from the Vogue pic. It's not supposed to be off the shoulder. Looks like your neckline is way too wide and that makes your armscye fall down. I don't think you can do anything at this point to correct it. Sylvia ' On Aug 22, 2008, at 11:54 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote: Lower the sleeve cap curve. If you look at the garment in the flat I'll bet the sleeves naturally lay pointed straight down. Rotate the sleeve up until you get the motion/position you want. keeping the armhole opening as small as possible will help with that too. alex From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting issues with it. http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg Here's a bad pic of me wearing it: http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my hair out of my face without difficulty. Dawn -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions .........How I'd try to fix it.....
Dawn wrote: I am going to go with the gusset idea, as it will allow me to salvage this piece (even if I could find more of the silk fabric, it was $35 a yard) as I hate the idea of wasting what's gone into it so far. When I make this again, and I'm sure I will, I will be making more substantial changes to the pattern itself. For when you're working on the muslin for the next one: One common cause of not being able to raise your arms high enough is when the armhole is (somewhat paradoxically) cut too BIG. A bigger armhole with a lower bottom curve actually translates into LESS freedom of motion, not more, as you would think. This is because as you move your arm upward, the low meeting point of sleeve and body under the arm means the sleeve quickly begins to transfer the pull upward onto the body fabric -- which can't really move upward very far if it's at all closely fitted or confined at the waist. A higher meeting point means you can raise your arm further before it starts to pull. I know I've made this mistake ;) Try raising the bottom line of the armhole to make a smaller hole and see if that makes a difference. (Of course, there are practical limits here, you don't want the armhole so small it binds or feels tight. But pattern companies, who have to make a pattern that attempts to fit all body shapes, often do rather large armholes to accommodate people who have heavy upper arms, and that simply doesn't fit everyone else correctly.) 0 Chris Laning | [EMAIL PROTECTED] + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
