Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-26 Thread Cin
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,
> > and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.

A good use for bad costume books?   I like to use a pile of them as a
monitor stand.  Kohler's just too small. Into the bin!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-23 Thread Susan Carroll-Clark

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,  
and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.


And I think that's one of the dangers for Kohler, particularly for 
beginners.  If they see the extant garments with patterns in the latter 
part of the book, and the smattering of extant garments with layouts for 
earlier periods, they could very well conclude that all the layouts are 
based on extant garments--including that bliaut with the "breast bags" 
that Robin mentioned earlier.


"Bad" books are fascinating in their own right as attempts to understand 
historic costume, often by comparing it to whatever was contemporary to 
the writer, but only for more advanced researchers. 


Susan

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RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: FindingInformation)

2008-02-23 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  True!  He's just another "don't take it as gospel" guy.   And he DOES
show'discuss something besides English clothing, which was about all we
could lay hands on in The Bad Old 2-towels-plus-safety-pins=tabard days!


Liadain
Finding something good in almost EVERY book...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 2:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was:
FindingInformation)




Kohler


Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models),
and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of
his early 19th century bodices as a guide.

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Frank A Thallas Jr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'Historical Costume' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 2:52 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding
Information)



  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on eBay
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of Norris

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-23 Thread g . vinje
I find that the Kohler book is a good place to start when I want to get a
vague idea before looking into a new period. I've come across a lot worse
"beginners" books, some being x-mas presents from evil friends.

My personal pet pieve is an early 15thC period book with fairly accurate
drawings of weapons and a mixture of Disney medieval and better documented
drawings of garments. I've threatend violence if anybody uses that book as
a source again for garments, as the personal favorites always turns out to
be the fantasy garments. I'd rather see Disney's Sleeping Beauty used as a
source to be honest.
:-)

Gunvor




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RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information)

2008-02-22 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
I have several books that I (and others) consider to be not good - some of  
them (eg Kohler) come in handy for the photos if nothing else...
 
But I do tend to find that they come in handy as a design source for modern  
clothes  :o)
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 23/02/2008 00:44:02 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I am the  proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and  Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe  this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on  eBay
But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk.  :-P
I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have  Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of  Norris

Liadain







   
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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-22 Thread AnnBWass
 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 4:44:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  patterns are maybe better for the later periods; I don't know that  
material, so I can't judge. 


Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,  
and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.
 
Ann Wass



**Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.  
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)
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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-22 Thread Robin Netherton

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models), 
and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of his 
early 19th century bodices as a guide.


The patterns are maybe better for the later periods; I don't know that 
material, so I can't judge. At least for later garments, there was 
better extant material to work with, which is still the case for people 
researching those periods today.


However, some of the patterns for medieval garments in Kohler are pure 
fantasy (like the 12th-century dress with curved seams under the 
breasts). Others are early attempts that have since been revised by 
better research (like the Golden Gown pattern that inserts a waistline 
seam and misidentifies back and front). And many of the pattern 
drawings, IIRC, are presented as fact without making clear which are 
taken from real garments and which are simply someone's conjecture.


Kohler also is guilty of making sweeping statements that sound more 
authoritative than there is evidence for. Much of what's in that book 
has been repeated as fact by later authors and become enshrined as such 
in the literature. For instance, there's that "14th century" sleeveless 
chemise for which the provenance was never accurately determined (and it 
is lost, probably destroyed, so we'll never know).


Some of the material in the book, of course, was not Kohler's own, but 
must have been added by Emma Von Sichart, who revised the book 
substantially for the 1928 edition -- for instance, to include the 
just-published Greenland finds. Kohler himself died in 1876. So there's 
a mix of older and not-so-old scholarship in that book, and possibly 
some inconsistencies arising from that.


--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information)

2008-02-22 Thread annbwass



Kohler


Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models), 
and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of his 
early 19th century bodices as a guide.

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Frank A Thallas Jr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'Historical Costume' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 2:52 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding 
Information)



  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on eBay
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of Norris

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information)

2008-02-22 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on eBay
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of Norris

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-22 Thread monica spence
One thoing I do with my SCA apprentices is show the drawings/ engravings in
the bad costume references next to the original artwork. It really opens
their eyes.

Monica


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew Trembley
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books


Robin Netherton wrote:
> Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>> And please, please, if you
>> have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
>> take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
>> no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
>> from library shelves
>
> Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for
> Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources
> that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of
> a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous
> interpretations.

I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do
historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources
(including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian
Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater).

andy

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Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-21 Thread Andrew Trembley

Robin Netherton wrote:

Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

And please, please, if you
have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
from library shelves


Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for 
Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources 
that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of 
a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous 
interpretations.


I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do 
historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources 
(including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian 
Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater).


andy

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