Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Lynn Downward
Knickers are short for knickerbockers, from some deep recess of my memory.
I know they weren't called knee-breeches during Victorian times (except
maybe by old ladies) but I can't verify they were called knickers.

My theory is that the ladies' underwear term, knickers, came from the name
of the short trousers worn by men.

Supposition on my part; my library is miles away and I can't remember
anything solid to back up my comments.
LynnD

On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote:

 I thought knickers referred to underwear.
 Julie


 Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party
  sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from
 my
  Rev
  War days.
 Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in Victorian
  times?
 Henry Osier
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Sybella
In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee knickers.
Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least one
other name for them. Knee highs, maybe?  It seems every time they come
back into fashion, they are called something else.

Maybe the term breeches is more accurate. However, that term was used 4
or 500 years before Victorian times, so I'm not really sure.

Thanks to the Brits, I do consider knickers undergarments, and I do think
the term has been used that way since Victorian times.

Isn't Steampunk simply a style, not an accurate reflection of any true time
period? As I understand it, it takes characteristics from a span of years,
and throws in some extra flare. Since it doesn't really claim to be
historically accurate*, call the trousers whatever you want! :)

*Even the Steampunk fans argue this out. Some say it's Victorian clothes
with technology from another year...some say it's just a literary genre.
See this link:
http://austinsirkin.tumblr.com/post/20317870381/what-is-steampunk-its-come-to-my-attention

This online store calls all the bottoms/pants trousers but they do carry
two that end below the knee. They call them...are you ready...KNICKERS! :)
http://www.steampunkemporium.com/steam.php

'Bella


On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:51 AM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.comwrote:

 Knickers are short for knickerbockers, from some deep recess of my memory.
 I know they weren't called knee-breeches during Victorian times (except
 maybe by old ladies) but I can't verify they were called knickers.

 My theory is that the ladies' underwear term, knickers, came from the name
 of the short trousers worn by men.

 Supposition on my part; my library is miles away and I can't remember
 anything solid to back up my comments.
 LynnD

 On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote:

  I thought knickers referred to underwear.
  Julie
 
 
  Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party
   sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from
  my
   Rev
   War days.
  Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in
 Victorian
   times?
  Henry Osier
  
  
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  h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Hope Greenberg


Ah the wonderful vagaries of fashion terms. Here's what I believe the 
evolution is:


18th and early 19th century: the general term for pants that end at the 
knee is knee breeches--or just plain breeches (let's not go back to 
Elizabethan trunk hose, etc. now!)


1809: Washington Irving publishes his satirical take on history and 
politics titled A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to 
the End of the Dutch Dynasty, by Diedrich Knickerbocker. The 
frontispiece sports an image of a patrician-looking elder gentleman 
wearing knee breeches. (Irving also begins an amusing hoax related to 
the whereabouts of Mr. Knickerbocker that has the effect of boosting 
sales of the book.)


1810-1840: the name is picked up by the public to refer to New Yorkers, 
particularly gentleman of the old school variety.


1840s: the New York Knickerbockers baseball team is formed. They adopt 
the uniform of a white flannel shirt and blue wool (long!) pants. No 
knickers yet.


mid-19th century: boys wear short pants - not shaped quite like knee 
breeches, but not as baggy as later knickerbockers either. The OED dates 
the use of knickerbocker for the baggy variety dates to 1859. And then 
there's the gentleman's country wear, the knickerbocker suit, of the 
late 1860s-1870s. Let's also throw in the baggy pants developed by 
Amelia Bloomer for the women's dress reform movement which were baggy 
but originally ankle length. They got shorter at the end of the century 
and were especially popular for women bicyclists, in fact the OED cites 
knickerbocker ladies as meaning women cyclists. And when do baseball 
uniforms move to shorter baggy pants that are called 
knickerbockers...hmmm...


1872: reference to women's under drawers as knickerbockers, followed by 
1895 reference to satin knickerbockers. Other references also refer to 
the younger girls drawers as knickers at about this time.


Here's where it gets fuzzy: by WWI the uniform was characterized by what 
we would term knickerbockers. At about the same time, boys by the early 
20th century boys pants were short and baggy. By the 1920s golfers 
adopted the short baggy look but there's were 4 inches longer than 
knickerbockers, hence the label plus fours. Knickers were also the 
staple of baseball and football uniforms. And by 1926 we have a 
reference to French knickers a British/American term for ladies tap 
pants or short, elastic waist, baggy open leg drawers. (Think Busby 
Berkley dancers or 30s film stars underwear.)


They made a come-back in the 1960s after 1950s ankle pants shortened to 
pedal pushers. Knickers were always characterized as baggier and drawn 
in at the knee.



Whew! There you have it--what a fun look at this garment. Oh, but back 
to your original question: it looks like knickers would not be the 
correct term for any knee-length garment before the late 1850s.


- Hope






War days.
Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in




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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Hope Greenberg

On 3/20/13 4:05 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote:
And when do baseball uniforms move to shorter baggy pants that are 
called knickerbockers...hmmm...


Ah-ha - here's one lead: 
http://exhibits.baseballhalloffame.org/dressed_to_the_nines/timeline_1868.htm


- Hope

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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Hope Greenberg


Oh heck, as long as I'm in there, here's the OED entry for breeches:

c. Now always in pl. breeches /?br?t??z/ , or a pair of breeches(perh. 
not so used before 15th c.). /Breeches/ are distinguished from 
/trousers/ by coming only just below the knee, but dialectally (and 
humorously) /breeches/ includes /trousers/.


[/c/1275  (/c/??a1200) La?amon /Brut javascript:void(0)/ (Calig.) 
(1978) l. 8996 Heo..gripen heore cniues.  of mid here breches.
1382 /Bible (Wycliffite, E.V.) javascript:void(0)/ Gen. iii. 7   They 
soweden to gidre leeves of a fige tree,  maden hem brechis.]
/a/1500 in T. Wright  R. P. Wülcker /Anglo-Saxon  Old Eng. Vocab. 
javascript:void(0)/ (1884) I. 629 /Bracce/, brechys.
1555 W. Waterman tr. J. Boemus /Fardle of Facions javascript:void(0)/ 
i. iv. 41   Some make them brieches of the heares of their heades.
1560 /Bible (Geneva) javascript:void(0)/ Gen. iii. 7 They sewed figge 
tree leaues together, and made themselues breeches.
1591 Spenser /Prosopopoia/ in /Complaints javascript:void(0)/ 211   
His breeches were made after the new cut.
1661 S. Pepys /Diary javascript:void(0)/ 6 Apr. (1970) II. 66 To put 
both his legs through one of his Knees of his breeches.
1785 W. Cowper /Task javascript:void(0)/ i. 10   As yet black breeches 
were not.
17.. /Chestnut Horse javascript:void(0)/, Dreamed of his boots, his 
spurs, his leather breeches, Of leaping five-barred gates, and crossing 
ditches.
1858 N. Hawthorne /Fr.  Ital. Jrnls. javascript:void(0)/ II. 179 
Their trousers being tucked up till they were strictly breeches.

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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Cin
Modernly, you are correct.  My grandmother was fond of asking if I'd
gotten my knickers in a twist if I was angry about something.  This
often happened if I was being sent to my room for beating up a younger
sibling.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com


On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote:
 I thought knickers referred to underwear.
 Julie


Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party
 sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from my
 RevWar days.
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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Cin
On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:
 In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee knickers.

Assuming you mean 1980s: I recall Capri pants for women,not knickers.

 Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least one
 other name for them. Knee highs, maybe?  It seems every time they come
 back into fashion, they are called something else.

Probably, pedal-pushers as that what my mom called the things they
went bicycling in in the 1950s.

Also, Knickers strikes me as something an early 20th c golfer or
upperclass sport hunter (male) might wear.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Chris Bertani
Certainly breeches is the correct term for the garments worn as part
of British court dress during the Victorian era.  I'm not sure what
the lower garment of a Norfolk suit is called, though.  A random
advertisement from 1905 refers to hunting breeches, but that's all a
quick search turned up.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes


On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 10:48 AM,  cc2010m...@cs.com wrote:
 Hello,
Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party
 sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from my Rev
 War days.
Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in Victorian
 times?
Henry Osier
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

2013-03-20 Thread Emily Gilbert
The only contribution I can make is that in Arthur Ransome's Swallows 
and Amazons books, written and set in the 1930s, a small boy (Roger) is 
described as wearing knickerbockers.


Emily


On 3/20/2013 3:05 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote:


Ah the wonderful vagaries of fashion terms. Here's what I believe the 
evolution is:


18th and early 19th century: the general term for pants that end at 
the knee is knee breeches--or just plain breeches (let's not go back 
to Elizabethan trunk hose, etc. now!)


1809: Washington Irving publishes his satirical take on history and 
politics titled A History of New York from the Beginning of the World 
to the End of the Dutch Dynasty, by Diedrich Knickerbocker. The 
frontispiece sports an image of a patrician-looking elder gentleman 
wearing knee breeches. (Irving also begins an amusing hoax related to 
the whereabouts of Mr. Knickerbocker that has the effect of boosting 
sales of the book.)


1810-1840: the name is picked up by the public to refer to New 
Yorkers, particularly gentleman of the old school variety.


1840s: the New York Knickerbockers baseball team is formed. They adopt 
the uniform of a white flannel shirt and blue wool (long!) pants. No 
knickers yet.


mid-19th century: boys wear short pants - not shaped quite like knee 
breeches, but not as baggy as later knickerbockers either. The OED 
dates the use of knickerbocker for the baggy variety dates to 1859. 
And then there's the gentleman's country wear, the knickerbocker suit, 
of the late 1860s-1870s. Let's also throw in the baggy pants developed 
by Amelia Bloomer for the women's dress reform movement which were 
baggy but originally ankle length. They got shorter at the end of the 
century and were especially popular for women bicyclists, in fact the 
OED cites knickerbocker ladies as meaning women cyclists. And when 
do baseball uniforms move to shorter baggy pants that are called 
knickerbockers...hmmm...


1872: reference to women's under drawers as knickerbockers, followed 
by 1895 reference to satin knickerbockers. Other references also refer 
to the younger girls drawers as knickers at about this time.


Here's where it gets fuzzy: by WWI the uniform was characterized by 
what we would term knickerbockers. At about the same time, boys by the 
early 20th century boys pants were short and baggy. By the 1920s 
golfers adopted the short baggy look but there's were 4 inches longer 
than knickerbockers, hence the label plus fours. Knickers were also 
the staple of baseball and football uniforms. And by 1926 we have a 
reference to French knickers a British/American term for ladies tap 
pants or short, elastic waist, baggy open leg drawers. (Think Busby 
Berkley dancers or 30s film stars underwear.)


They made a come-back in the 1960s after 1950s ankle pants shortened 
to pedal pushers. Knickers were always characterized as baggier and 
drawn in at the knee.



Whew! There you have it--what a fun look at this garment. Oh, but back 
to your original question: it looks like knickers would not be the 
correct term for any knee-length garment before the late 1850s.


- Hope






War days.
Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in




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