KR> Boatbuilding Questions
Hey john a buddy and I did the same thing at Ft Wainwright, AK in 1977. The company commander made us take it to the woodshop wow the projects in there no one ever seen a plane built before.LOL From: "jmelvin...@aol.com" To: kr...@mylist.net Sent: Sun, December 5, 2010 2:15:43 PM Subject: Re: KR> Boatbuilding Questions I helped a friend build the boat for a KR-1 in an Army barracks room at Ft Sill, OK in the 70's. John El Paso In a message dated 12/5/2010 2:03:55 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, cbscust...@yahoo.com writes: Mike when building the boat fit and glue every thing but the rudder up rights and then when you get it out the door then glue and clamp them in. I knew a man who had built the boat in his apartment living room until the landlord kicked him out. LOL. KR people do crazy things to build a airplane, I am one LOL. From: Mike Taglieri To: KRnet Sent: Sat, December 4, 2010 7:59:12 PM Subject: KR> Boatbuilding Questions For a long time I've wanted to build a KR-2, but I didn't have a place to do it. Now, after moving from an apartment to a house, I've decided the best way is to build it in my basement as far as possible. I have a small two-car garage, but it's cold, drafty, and often damp. The basement is dry and heated, with a ground level door to the backyard, and I have woodworking and metalworking equipment there. The problem is space. There's a furnace room in the middle of the basement, and the area where I want to put the assembly table is 76" wide on one end and 80" wide on the other. The KR manual says the table is made of two sheets of particle board put end to end "and cut off to length of table desired." But leaving the table 48" wide seems much more than I need and it would make it harder to move around it. How narrow a table can I get away with? (And how long does it have to be? My space is plenty long enough to build the boat, but I don't see any point making the table longer than it needs to be). The hard part is going to be getting the boat out the door, which is currently 32" wide (though if I take out the door frame I can get it to get to 34"). The plans seem to want me to build the tail after the boat, but I don't see why I can't do that last, and without the tail, the boat turned sideways can get through the door, maybe even with the wing spars on. Finally, I bought my plans awhile ago and have Serial No. 9159 in Book No. 78. Drawing 1 and Drawing 2 are the May, 1986 release, and the firewall template is dated February 15, 1981. Are these the latest version, and if not, is there a way to get the later ones? Mike Taglieri miket--...@juno.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Boatbuilding Questions
On Dec. 4 Mike Taglieri wrote; >For a long time I've wanted to build a KR-2, but I didn't have a place to >do it. Now, after moving from an apartment to a house, I've decided the best >way is to build it in my basement... I have been building mine in my living room (not married, so no issues). Based on an article in kitplanes, I bought a 16' extension ladder, took it apart and used it as a foundation with two 4' X 4' sections of plywood (3/8") under particle board (smooth surface X 1/2") for use on a previously built project. The ladder sections provide a square and rigid substructure, allows me to pick it up and lean it against a wall if I need to, and rests on adjustable sawhorses (Home Depot, height adjustable from 30" - 37"). I think I paid less than $60 or the ladder at Lowes during a sale, the wood was about $30, so with screws, bolts, nuts, and all the other stuff, I think I've got less than $200 and a half a day's work in a very nice, flexible 4' X 8' work table; just make two and you can make a full stretch KR and have a really neat set of work bench for other projects. (either 4' X 16' or 8' X 8') I think the KitPlanes idea more than paid for about 3 years of the subscription price (and no, I don't work for KitPlanes). Happy flying, Mark W N952MW
KR> Boatbuilding Questions
I helped a friend build the boat for a KR-1 in an Army barracks room at Ft Sill, OK in the 70's. John El Paso In a message dated 12/5/2010 2:03:55 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, cbscust...@yahoo.com writes: Mike when building the boat fit and glue every thing but the rudder up rights and then when you get it out the door then glue and clamp them in. I knew a man who had built the boat in his apartment living room until the landlord kicked him out. LOL. KR people do crazy things to build a airplane, I am one LOL. From: Mike Taglieri To: KRnet Sent: Sat, December 4, 2010 7:59:12 PM Subject: KR> Boatbuilding Questions For a long time I've wanted to build a KR-2, but I didn't have a place to do it. Now, after moving from an apartment to a house, I've decided the best way is to build it in my basement as far as possible. I have a small two-car garage, but it's cold, drafty, and often damp. The basement is dry and heated, with a ground level door to the backyard, and I have woodworking and metalworking equipment there. The problem is space. There's a furnace room in the middle of the basement, and the area where I want to put the assembly table is 76" wide on one end and 80" wide on the other. The KR manual says the table is made of two sheets of particle board put end to end "and cut off to length of table desired." But leaving the table 48" wide seems much more than I need and it would make it harder to move around it. How narrow a table can I get away with? (And how long does it have to be? My space is plenty long enough to build the boat, but I don't see any point making the table longer than it needs to be). The hard part is going to be getting the boat out the door, which is currently 32" wide (though if I take out the door frame I can get it to get to 34"). The plans seem to want me to build the tail after the boat, but I don't see why I can't do that last, and without the tail, the boat turned sideways can get through the door, maybe even with the wing spars on. Finally, I bought my plans awhile ago and have Serial No. 9159 in Book No. 78. Drawing 1 and Drawing 2 are the May, 1986 release, and the firewall template is dated February 15, 1981. Are these the latest version, and if not, is there a way to get the later ones? Mike Taglieri miket--...@juno.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Boatbuilding Questions
Mike when building the boat fit and glue every thing but the rudder up rights and then when you get it out the door then glue and clamp them in. I knew a man who had built the boat in his apartment living room until the landlord kicked him out. LOL. KR people do crazy things to build a airplane, I am one LOL. From: Mike Taglieri To: KRnet Sent: Sat, December 4, 2010 7:59:12 PM Subject: KR> Boatbuilding Questions For a long time I've wanted to build a KR-2, but I didn't have a place to do it. Now, after moving from an apartment to a house, I've decided the best way is to build it in my basement as far as possible. I have a small two-car garage, but it's cold, drafty, and often damp. The basement is dry and heated, with a ground level door to the backyard, and I have woodworking and metalworking equipment there. The problem is space. There's a furnace room in the middle of the basement, and the area where I want to put the assembly table is 76" wide on one end and 80" wide on the other. The KR manual says the table is made of two sheets of particle board put end to end "and cut off to length of table desired." But leaving the table 48" wide seems much more than I need and it would make it harder to move around it. How narrow a table can I get away with? (And how long does it have to be? My space is plenty long enough to build the boat, but I don't see any point making the table longer than it needs to be). The hard part is going to be getting the boat out the door, which is currently 32" wide (though if I take out the door frame I can get it to get to 34"). The plans seem to want me to build the tail after the boat, but I don't see why I can't do that last, and without the tail, the boat turned sideways can get through the door, maybe even with the wing spars on. Finally, I bought my plans awhile ago and have Serial No. 9159 in Book No. 78. Drawing 1 and Drawing 2 are the May, 1986 release, and the firewall template is dated February 15, 1981. Are these the latest version, and if not, is there a way to get the later ones? Mike Taglieri miket--...@juno.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Boatbuilding Questions
I just made two 4x8 tables and bolted together it works great with locking wheels that way you can build the KR1, KR2 or KR2 s on the same table and with wheels you can put it against the wall for a table. From: R. Human To: KRnet Sent: Sun, December 5, 2010 11:37:07 AM Subject: RE: KR> Boatbuilding Questions Mike since no one else has replied directly to your table questions - here's my take. The table doesn't need to be any longer that it takes to layout the fuselage sides - so what-ever that is based on the short or long fuselage. I would probably make it as wide as the widest part of the fuselage as you will need that when you start to erect the sides. The Horizontal stab/Elevator can be saved to last but you will need to mount the rudder post when you frame the boat. The Vertical Stabilizer is constructed after the Horizontal/Elevators are mounted. Hope this helps Rick Human N202RH Houston, Tx ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Boatbuilding Questions
Mike since no one else has replied directly to your table questions - here's my take. The table doesn't need to be any longer that it takes to layout the fuselage sides - so what-ever that is based on the short or long fuselage. I would probably make it as wide as the widest part of the fuselage as you will need that when you start to erect the sides. The Horizontal stab/Elevator can be saved to last but you will need to mount the rudder post when you frame the boat. The Vertical Stabilizer is constructed after the Horizontal/Elevators are mounted. Hope this helps Rick Human N202RH Houston, Tx
KR> aeropoxy
I don't know about Aeropoxy, but I had an old (?'08?) qt. of Polypoxy that was about 1/2 wax that I put into a pot of boiling water for an hour back in October. It turned back into clear liquid and has worked fine since. You could try it with the Aeropoxy, if it works, great; if not, you've only lost a little time & gas/electric BTU's. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS S/N 1118 T/D / CorvAIR 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 203-732-0508 "It ain't over until the fat lady sings". >Can Aeropoxy, part A resin be rejuvenated if it has gelled? I know that T-88 >can >be brought back to use if it crystalizes by warming. Is the same true for >>Aeropoxy resin or should it be discarded. About a third of the volume has >stiffened into a gel.
KR> aeropoxy
If kept covered, that should not have happened. I have had Aeropoxy for over a year and it was still usable. I suggest you go here: http://www.ptm-w.com/index.asp?pgid=15 and ask them. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC Can Aeropoxy, part A resin be rejuvenated if it has gelled
KR> aeropoxy
Netters Can Aeropoxy, part A resin be rejuvenated if it has gelled? I know that T-88 can be brought back to use if it crystalizes by warming. Is the same true for Aeropoxy resin or should it be discarded. About a third of the volume has stiffened into a gel. Resin and hardener were purchased May 2010. Thanks in advance for an help Pete Klapp, building KR-2S, N729PK, Canton, Ohio
KR> Flying Video
Hi all, I apologize if you get this more than once, I have posted it to a couple different groups. Also, the video was taken from my Q2 so it really has nothing to do with KR's. However; I thought it might serve as motivation to someone to get busy on your KR!! I guess it did for me as I spent most of Saturday afternoon glassing on my KR2S (taking advantage of some warm outside weather). This year's video attempts have all been miserable failures. I cannot seem to get a camera mount position that I like or footage that is very good (using my shoestring budget camera). I tried again this past Friday and Saturday on the way to/from breakfast and got some footage that I almost like. It is far from good quality but maybe someone will enjoy it. I am still (occasionally) working on better... My editing skills are also low but I am slowly learning - don't expect Hollywood quality. Two videos: 1. Some hill flying footage. http://www.vimeo.com/17481531 2. Footage of the tight traffic pattern than I mentioned in an email a couple of weeks ago. http://www.vimeo.com/17482681 This was made as a result of an email I sent to the Quickie guys encouraging them NOT to fly 747 patterns (long story, it seems a great many pilots like to do that...). Enjoy, Jon Finley N314JF - Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 http://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx
KR> mmicro balloon
When I have done the bodywork on my Kr I've got the best results by mixing resin and micro ballons (no matter what epoxy-resin you use)at first, to a very dry mixture(no chance to squeeze on to the surface).Then add "household- alcohol"(in germany it is called Spititus-about 90-95% alcohol)to get a slurry mixture. It's easy to squeeze this micro slurry on to the surfaces.It takes a little longer to harden. Never take this mixture for structural bonding!! The adventure of the hardened mixture is a very good and smooth sanding condition and it doesn't give cracks later on!(it stays smooth and flexible all the time). Avoid taking vinyl-esther or polyester resin.This resin gets harder and harder by the time and you will get cracks later on.For small repairs on a finished surface you can use "top coat" (most boat manufacturer use "gel coat"in their molds before they continue with the glass layers ,or "top coat" when they working on a moldless item).Both products are based on polyesther and need a special primer to continue with epoxy resin! To get a good surface and stay light on a moldless wing ,the best way is, to start with a very good preparation of your foamshape.That causes in a minor amount of micro and resin for your lay up and finaly just as little micro for sanding the surface to its color condition. Once again,using colered (most white) "top coat" as described ,results in unwanted highweight and cracks later on, due to it's uncontrolled thickness.
KR> testmessage
only a test mssage from Herbert Fuerle
KR> Oregon or N Calif KR2S on Ebay
Found this by chance. Ebay Item number: 220705852024
