KR> FW: Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling
The sump is not the worst place to shed heat. Do the math and look at how many square inchs of surface there is. Why do you think there are fins on the sump? Not only that, the heat is wicked around the entire crank case. This is why the top of the case gets hot. The oil cools the crank, rods, pistons, valves, ?and so on. The heads aren't the only path for heat transfer.And yes, I use a cooler. Look up the amount of Btus that a cooler can shed per Sq in. You may be surprised how limited it is. I'm not trying to be a pain. But if someone is going to all the work to pump a large volume of oil into the heads, for which it was never designed to handle, they most likely could be landing when they don't want to due to engine failure. Have you ever flown an airplane with oil comming out of the engine at a high rate. I have, and you will have one heck of a pucker factor.And I have lost engines in flight twice.Pumping extra oil into the heads would be best be done in a test cell for many hours of running to get it right. If at all. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Brian C Wagner via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 04/30/2016 09:29 (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet Cc: Brian C Wagner Subject: Re: KR> FW: Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling I'm sorry, but this is wrong. The sump is the worst place for cooling to happen. Heat is radiated away only at that relatively small amount of surface area, per volume of oil. I'm not familiar with VW aircraft installations. Are you using an oil cooler of any type? A car installation includes the integral cooler that air is forced through. It is there, and throughout the engine's radiating surface, where heat is exchanged to the air. From: KRnet on behalf of Gary Hinkle via KRnet Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 9:52 PM To: KRnet Cc: Gary Hinkle Subject: Re: KR> FW:? Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling While everyone is toying with extra oil to cool the heads. Don't forget, you would pull more oil from the sump. Which would leave less to be cooled. Leading to hotter oil, hotter heads.This is a bad idea. Period! The engineering to fugure out the amount of oil needed in sump, out put of pump, thermal shed, and so on, is way beyond anything worth doing for the amount of return.Power = temperature. This little engine is pretty much putting out all it can, and still remain reliable. NASCAR doesn't use Detroit engines from production cars. They are specially designed just for that class car and special usage.I don't want to seem like a poop. It's just how it is.Gary Hinkle. Corp, Cargo pilot, and seems like forever A Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Chris Prata via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 04/27/2016? 02:40? (GMT-05:00) To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: Chris Prata Subject: KR> FW:? Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling thats an interesting angle. your oil post also reminded me I was going to ask about *additional* oil to cool the heads, as in a high vol oil pump, and an oil line to each head spraying oil on the hottest area (between the valves?). would that almost make them "liquid cooled heads"? List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 12:28:29 -0500 Subject: Re: KR> Type 1 Cylinder Heads From: lrffrench at gmail.com To: krnet at list.krnet.org CC: chrisprata at live.com Hi KR league,? of all the discussions that are so important about controlling heat, I am surprised that so little discussion of oil happens. This is a big decision. My research for my 1835 vw and oil has led me to Quaker State DEFY.? I am running the 10w30 and the API-SL class. This is a semi- synthetic with boosted zinc for anti-friction. In aircraft we can't use a full synthetic because lead in av-gas will destroy the anti-friction adds in the pure synthetics. Even if we plan to use mogas primarily, there may be the need to use av-gas all of which have high lead.? The molecule size in synthetics, even the blends, is smaller and is known to run cooler. Note:? Quaker State DEFY is in almost identical containers with API-SN class oil. (Strange).? SN doesn't have the boosted Zinc. You have to read the small print to get API-SL. The SN class has been made for the auto engines with catalytic converters because the high zinc has been known to ruin the catalytic converters. Since aviation does use them (yet), we can benefit from the zinc friction reduction. Hope this isn't noise on many of the great signals I read everyday from you pros.Cheers,Rene Ffrench N44774. Austin, Texas ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see
KR> ADS-B out.
On 4/30/2016 8:27 PM, Mark Jones via KRnet wrote: > I recently ordered a complete ?FlightBox? kit from a new company called Open > Flight Solutions. > The subject of your message says "ADS-B out", but it is important to note that the FlightBox kit is an ADS-B In box, not Out. It only receives, not transmits. Essentially it is a pre-packaged Stratux kit, a popular ADS-B DIY receiver. http://stratux.me/ It looks like a good kit, just didn't want anyone to think it was an Out box. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87 Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
Wow! That's a lot of metal plumbing in front of the firewall. That stuff loves to absorb and transfer heat. Putting the pumps in front of the firewall where they are exposed to heat is inviting vapor lock at the pumps, which can cause engine stoppage with no recovery until it cools down. I went through this scenario helping a builder with a Sonex that seemed to be always on the edge of vapor lock. The solution was to fabricate a box around all those metal components, open on the bottom for the cooling air to exit, then add a NACA scoop to the side of the lower cowl to supply cooling air to the box. We put a thermocouple on the gascolator before and after this mod. Before adding the cooling box to the fuel components in front of the firewall, the gascolator was measured at 180?F during flight. That is warm enough to boil the fuel and cause a vapor lock. After adding the cooling box to the fuel components, the gascolator always measured within 10? of ambient air temp. I am assuming you were already planning to cool these components, so am pointing this out as a potential safety issue for others that may want to put all those components on the front side of the firewall. I had friend that destroyed his E-AB aircraft when it vapor locked. When he was taxiing for take off with the engine hot following a previous flight, the fuel pressure dropped and the engine was running rough, so he flipped on the boost pump to restore pressure. The fuel pressure came back up to normal and the engine smoothed out, so he figured it was a vapor lock issue and would clear up once the engine got good airflow in the air. The problem is that his boost pump was also mounted in front of the firewall without any heat shielding or cooling air supplied. He made it to around 400' altitude before the heat saturated boost pump started cavitating as it also vapor locked. The engine quit forcing a landing on a road. He hit the power lines over the road first and had a less than stellar landing causing significant damage to his aircraft. It's worth noting that Piper put the boost pump and gascolator in front of the firewall on the PA-38 and the later PA-28 aircraft. In both cases, those components are mounted with a shield between the fuel components and the rest of the engine compartment and a small NACA scoop supplying air to the fuel components. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Sent:?Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 8:55 AM From:?"Paul Visk via KRnet" To:?"KR EMAIL BOARD" Cc:?"Paul Visk" Subject:?Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? Paul ViskBelleville Il?618 406 4705? Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Pete, ?Here's a picture of my firewall with my primary and backup Facet pumps all with AN ?fittings. ?Along with my gascator, fuel pressure and fuel flow transmitters.?The idea came from the Sonex's Corvair engine installation manual. ?With this installation there is no pressure ice fuel in the cotpit. ? Paul Visk?Belleville Il?618 406 4705?.? The Facet is part 40108 and is made 3/8" flared and also AN-6. The Earl's fuel filters are part number 230106 and are AN-6. The Facet AN-6 is made for the racing world. Here is a link where you can get the AN-6 Facets: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=84 Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI
KR> ADS-B out.
Hi Guys, There has been some talk lately about being able to source parts i.e. a Raspberry Pi 2 to build an ADS-B receiver. I recently ordered a complete ?FlightBox? kit from a new company called Open Flight Solutions. I received my dual frequency receiver a few days ago and am very impressed with the unit. Open Flight Solutions uses the Raspberry Pi 3 which has wifi built in unlike the 2 which requires an adapter. All of the components are of exceptional quality and the communication and customer service with Open Flight Solutions is awesome. Steve with open flight has contacted me twice since I received my box just to make sure all is ok. They are also working on an AHRS upgrade for this FlightBox. I just thought you guys needed to know about this company. www.openflightsolutions.com Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
John, ?what you are looking at is a ?Female Swivel couper p/n ?SC606 from Wicks. ??Jeff, ?Yes I was planning on putting a box over it and feed fresh air to it with a scat hose. ?The temperatures you came up with are very interesting. ? Paul ViskBelleville Il?618 406 4705? Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Original message From: John Martindale via KRnet Date: 4/30/16 5:02 PM (GMT-06:00) To: 'KRnet' Cc: John Martindale Subject: Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? Hi Paul I'm curious. How did you manage to flare those short lengths of AN6 tube between the pumps etc and still get the fittings on?or am I missing something here. Cheers John John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit Toormina NSW 2452 Australia ph:61 2 6658 4767 m:0403 432179 email:john_martindale at bigpond.com web site: -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Paul Visk via KRnet Sent: Sunday, 1 May 2016 12:56 AM To: KR EMAIL BOARD Cc: Paul Visk Subject: Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? Paul ViskBelleville Il 618 406 4705 Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Pete,? Here's a picture of my firewall with my primary and backup Facet pumps all with AN? fittings.? Along with my gascator, fuel pressure and fuel flow transmitters. The idea came from the Sonex's Corvair engine installation manual.? With this installation there is no pressure ice fuel in the cotpit.? Paul Visk Belleville Il 618 406 4705 . The Facet is part 40108 and is made 3/8" flared and also AN-6. The Earl's fuel filters are part number 230106 and are AN-6. The Facet AN-6 is made for the racing world. Here is a link where you can get the AN-6 Facets: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=84 Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI Mark Your fuel system page shows your Facet fuel pumps connected to fuel lines using AN fittings. I spoke with a "tech?" at Facet and he "thought they were a 45 deg SAE flare" as they only made fuel pumps for automotive use. Had you had any leaks or problems using the 37 deg AN fittings? Did you alter the AN fittings to 45 deg?Pete ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
Hope this link works. I used a SS mud pan from Home Depot on my Smith. Craig. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1058479134173264=pcb.1279813942035991=3 > On April 30, 2016 at 10:55 AM Paul Visk via KRnet > wrote: > > > >
KR> O-200
The O-200 oil pump usually won't prime turning on the starter and takes nearly forever to prime at an idle. You can idle the engine right up to damaging the bearings and still may not get oil pressure. If you want to pre-oil the engine, the technique Mike describes works pretty well, and is a really good thing to do if you don't know how the engine was lubed when it was assembled. If I have had the engine apart and lost the prime on the oil pump, just a few seconds at 1500 rpm is enough for it to pick up it's prime again. When assembling any aircraft engine, I use a generous amount of Lubriplate Assembly Lube on all bearing, seal, and contact surfaces. The exception is the cam lobes and cam followers, which get a coating of black moly cam break-in grease on the contact faces. The Lubriplate grease will stay in place if the engine gets stored for a few years, and will protect the bearings and surfaces during startup until the oil pump primes and starts providing oil pressure. The oil cooler mount is where the after market spin on oil filter mounts to the engine on the back left side of the case. If you have neither, there is a small bypass plate mounted there on 3 studs. ? Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- Sent:?Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 7:40 AM From:?"Mike Sylvester via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mike Sylvester" Subject:?Re: KR> O-200 I never could get my O-200 to self prime, I had left the spark plugs out to take the pressure off of the rod bearings and to make her easy to spin over but she just would not pick up the oil. I finally pulled the side plate where the filter mounts and poured oil in the top hole until it would not take any more. I think that I even turned the prop backwards to make sure that it would enter the pump. I then put the plate back on. This worked, I had oil pressure. PS, It takes a lot of oil, you have to back fill the screen cavity. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854 To: KRnet Cc: Gary Hamilton Subject: Re: KR> O-200 OK. Thank you. Now to find the oil cooler port plug. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 30, 2016, at 6:31 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet > wrote: > > > > Gary said; "Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start > up after rebuild? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure?" > On the a65 we removed the oil cooler port plug, used vynal tubing and a > funnel to gavity feed enough oil to prime the oil pump. > I hope that helps > Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] > see > http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] > to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> O-200
I primed my O200 buy removing the oil temp bulb, pick up a barbed fitting attach a plastic line to pressure container and apply ?about 5psi.?inject any were from 1/4to1/2 quart of oil is plenty to prime oil pump. DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL TEMP PROBE!! On Friday, April 29, 2016 10:06 PM, Gary via KRnet wrote: Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start up after rebuild?? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure? Thanks, Gary ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.orgto change options
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
At 01:11 PM 4/30/2016, you wrote: >Wow! That's a lot of metal plumbing in front of the firewall. That >stuff loves to absorb and transfer heat. + My only fuel component on the firewall , other than the hoses, is the gascolator. I have it "boxed" with forced air cooling. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8085.jpg Larry Flesner
KR> O-200
I never could get my O-200 to self prime, I had left the spark plugs out to take the pressure off of the rod bearings and to make her easy to spin over but she just would not pick up the oil. I finally pulled the side plate where the filter mounts and poured oil in the top hole until it would not take any more. I think that I even turned the prop backwards to make sure that it would enter the pump. I then put the plate back on. This worked, I had oil pressure. PS, It takes a lot of oil, you have to back fill the screen cavity. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854 From: KRnet on behalf of Gary Hamilton via KRnet Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 7:13 AM To: KRnet Cc: Gary Hamilton Subject: Re: KR> O-200 OK. Thank you. Now to find the oil cooler port plug. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 30, 2016, at 6:31 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet > wrote: > > > > Gary said; "Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start > up after rebuild? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure?" > On the a65 we removed the oil cooler port plug, used vynal tubing and a > funnel to gavity feed enough oil to prime the oil pump. > I hope that helps > Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Tri-cycle KR2 airframe for sale
Well it is time to clean out the hanger and let go of some projects so I am offering up my KR2 complete airframe. It must go asking $1000 or bring me an offer. No FWF but does have a VW engine mount. Richard 937-243-7303
KR> FW: Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling
I'm sorry, but this is wrong. The sump is the worst place for cooling to happen. Heat is radiated away only at that relatively small amount of surface area, per volume of oil. I'm not familiar with VW aircraft installations. Are you using an oil cooler of any type? A car installation includes the integral cooler that air is forced through. It is there, and throughout the engine's radiating surface, where heat is exchanged to the air. From: KRnet on behalf of Gary Hinkle via KRnet Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 9:52 PM To: KRnet Cc: Gary Hinkle Subject: Re: KR> FW: Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling While everyone is toying with extra oil to cool the heads. Don't forget, you would pull more oil from the sump. Which would leave less to be cooled. Leading to hotter oil, hotter heads.This is a bad idea. Period! The engineering to fugure out the amount of oil needed in sump, out put of pump, thermal shed, and so on, is way beyond anything worth doing for the amount of return.Power = temperature. This little engine is pretty much putting out all it can, and still remain reliable. NASCAR doesn't use Detroit engines from production cars. They are specially designed just for that class car and special usage.I don't want to seem like a poop. It's just how it is.Gary Hinkle. Corp, Cargo pilot, and seems like forever A Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Chris Prata via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 04/27/2016 02:40 (GMT-05:00) To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: Chris Prata Subject: KR> FW: Type 1 Cylinder Heads - cooling thats an interesting angle. your oil post also reminded me I was going to ask about *additional* oil to cool the heads, as in a high vol oil pump, and an oil line to each head spraying oil on the hottest area (between the valves?). would that almost make them "liquid cooled heads"? List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 12:28:29 -0500 Subject: Re: KR> Type 1 Cylinder Heads From: lrffrench at gmail.com To: krnet at list.krnet.org CC: chrisprata at live.com Hi KR league, of all the discussions that are so important about controlling heat, I am surprised that so little discussion of oil happens. This is a big decision. My research for my 1835 vw and oil has led me to Quaker State DEFY. I am running the 10w30 and the API-SL class. This is a semi- synthetic with boosted zinc for anti-friction. In aircraft we can't use a full synthetic because lead in av-gas will destroy the anti-friction adds in the pure synthetics. Even if we plan to use mogas primarily, there may be the need to use av-gas all of which have high lead. The molecule size in synthetics, even the blends, is smaller and is known to run cooler. Note: Quaker State DEFY is in almost identical containers with API-SN class oil. (Strange). SN doesn't have the boosted Zinc. You have to read the small print to get API-SL. The SN class has been made for the auto engines with catalytic converters because the high zinc has been known to ruin the catalytic converters. Since aviation does use them (yet), we can benefit from the zinc friction reduction. Hope this isn't noise on many of the great signals I read everyday from you pros.Cheers,Rene Ffrench N44774. Austin, Texas ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> oil priming a VW type 1 engine vs the Corvair
Speaking of priming, my experience with getting a Type 1 VW engine to prime on a taildragger has been has been pretty miserable! First step is to coat the oil pump gears at assembly to make a tight enough seal to hopefully suck oil out of the sump, and that sump tube is pretty long and large diameter. I also just Lubriplate 105 (Motor Assembly Lube), mainly because it comes in a large tube with a nozzle on it that makes it easy to squirt between the gears. Fill the crankcase with oil. Next step on a taildragger is to get the tail up, preferably over center so the nose is actually lower than the tail. This is easily done with a saw horse, and I have a sawhorse with foam and carpet on it that's custom made for the KR2 (thanks to Jim Hill). By moving it fore and aft under aft fuselage taper, the angle can be varied. [I threw this in for Larry F, to get the engineering complication out of the way]. So, best to have the nose down, but not low enough to kill the prop during rotation. I then remove the oil pressure sending unit (same location as the stock oil pressure switch on the Beetle, adjacent to the distributor) and pump that passage full of oil with an oil can, some plastic tubing, and an 1/8" NPT barbed fitting. This takes a lot more pumping and filling than you might think. Rotate the prop backwards a little when you think you've got it full, to see if it will hold more, and refill if necessary. Remove the NPT fitting and install a mechanical gauge (you can buy a cheap one for ~$20 at the parts store) so you can watch it and tell when the engine is primed. Once primed, install plugs, leave the gauge there (as a second opinion to the whatever electronic gauge you have), and fire it up, following the break-in procedure. Contrast this process with the Corvair, which on a taildragger, has the oil pump at the back of the engine, down low. If the crankcase is already filled with oil, the oil system is already primed, as the whole works is submerged in oil! You could fire it up and have oil to the bearings in a few seconds, but you still need to pump oil through the system though, to fill any external filter and to pump up the hydraulic lifters so it'll run quiet immediately on startup. This is done with an old distributor housing with the drive gear removed from the end. Insert the old distributor, rotating to engage the tang in the oil pump gear, put a drill on the top of the distributor (where the rotor goes) and spin until you hear oil squishing out between the bearings and other places. Rotate the prop a few degrees, and repeat a few times. You are now ready to fire the engine up! The old distributor drive trick doesn't work on the VW though...you'll just tear the cam gear teeth up instead. So many advantages to the Corvair... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> O-200
Hi Gary, Assuming new rings and at least newly honed cylinders (if not new cylinders), then: Engine should have straight mineral oil for the first 10hrs. Ignition OFF Pull one plug from each cylinder. Spin by hand, (will pump oil thought engine) Replace plugs and run? Worst part is its pretty important to run at more than 75% power for the first ~1-4 hours. (Not entirely compatible with testing out a new plane too! But the high power (and temp) is important in seating the rings. If you baby it, the rings may never seat.) Watch for oil consumption to drop and cylinder head temps to drop - then you?ll know the rings are seated. I?d replace the mineral oil at 5 and 10 hours, and replace with something like Aeroshell 100. The which oil conversation seems one of the strongest breezes flapping aviation gums out there. I?m no expert, but I have read that most oils start breaking down very close to ~450F. Seems like everything goes to hell about there. High temps around the exhaust valve stems cause a lot of problems, compound by oil breakdown. I?m a sucker for technical mumbo-jumbo marketing info and some time ago Castrol Aviator 100AD used to market their oils as having a higher breakdown temp than Aeroshell. I have no idea, but I tend to get the Castrol when I can find it. Cheers, Owen
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
Paul ViskBelleville Il?618 406 4705? Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Pete, ?Here's a picture of my firewall with my primary and backup Facet pumps all with AN ?fittings. ?Along with my gascator, fuel pressure and fuel flow transmitters.?The idea came from the Sonex's Corvair engine installation manual. ?With this installation there is no pressure ice fuel in the cotpit. ? Paul Visk?Belleville Il?618 406 4705?.? The Facet is part 40108 and is made 3/8" flared and also AN-6. The Earl's fuel filters are part number 230106 and are AN-6. The Facet AN-6 is made for the racing world. Here is a link where you can get the AN-6 Facets: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=84 Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI Mark Your fuel system page shows your Facet fuel pumps connected to fuel lines using AN fittings. I spoke with a "tech?" at Facet and he "thought they were a 45 deg SAE flare" as they only made fuel pumps for automotive use. Had you had any leaks or problems using the 37 deg AN fittings? Did you alter the AN fittings to 45 deg?Pete -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20160430_093735_resized.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 49455 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160430/9885a2d0/attachment.jpg>
KR> O-200
OK. Thank you. Now to find the oil cooler port plug. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 30, 2016, at 6:31 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet > wrote: > > > > Gary said; "Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start > up after rebuild? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure?" > On the a65 we removed the oil cooler port plug, used vynal tubing and a > funnel to gavity feed enough oil to prime the oil pump. > I hope that helps > Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle
^At that price I would snatch it up if it was not ^on the opposite corner ^of the U.S. from me. Freightcenter.com I have used them 2 times to ship engines, across the country. ?They get bids for shipping at thier rate. ?You pick the company and price you like. ?They handle the process. ? I paid about $300 to move an engine from Oregon to Florida. ?No problems. Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> O-200
Gary said; "Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start up after rebuild?? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure?" On the a65 we removed the oil cooler port plug, used vynal tubing and a funnel to gavity feed enough oil to prime the oil pump. I hope that helps? Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle
On my way out the door to check the crank run out and hopefully bring it home... Subject: Re: KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle I've looked at it, and it is fine. I've offered to help any KRer with shipping or hold it 'til they can get out this way. Peter
KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle
I've looked at it, and it is fine. I've offered to help any KRer with shipping or hold it 'til they can get out this way. Peter -Original Message- From: brian.kraut--- via KRnet To: KRnet Cc: brian.kraut Sent: Fri, Apr 29, 2016 7:59 pm Subject: Re: KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle At that price I would snatch it up if it was not on the opposite corner of the U.S. from me. Original Message Subject: KR> revmaster for sale - Seattle From: Dan Prichard via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Fri, April 29, 2016 9:29 am To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: Dan Prichard > > http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/wto/5552911142.html > > Dan Prichard > 503-715-7178 > > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Oil additives
I have run 15w40 Rotella since day one in my 18 wheeler. 1.25 million miles so far. Only internal maintenance was a head gasket. I'm vary happy with using Rotella. Paul Visk Belleville Il 618 406 4705 I had a friend that worked for the city doing auto maintenance. tons of engine rebuilds on the police cars and he swore by Rotella. The fact that it is sold in gallon jugs so they are easy to fill back up to get rid of the old oil is nice too.
