KR> Spar dimensions
Thanks Mark. That question Was a little premature. I was thrown by the fact that they sent me material for the verticals that was too small (which I had to reorder) and the vagueness of the plans. Makes sense now. Had an issue with which way the laminate was supposed to go and the size stock they sent me. Long story short, I flubbed that one and will be ordering more stock. This story could go on and on. I did find though that A/S part number for that stock is bigger than what they send with the kit, also if you order it a bit bigger it is cheaper per linear than the smaller stuff. Over 2$ per foot cheaper which ends up being almost $50 for just the fore main spar caps unless I'm missing something there. Anywho, thank you. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 22, 2016, at 8:33 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet list.krnet.org> wrote: > > Chad wrote: > >> Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the >> plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that >> the cap only? > > Spar cap only. The "drawing number 12" covers spar and verticals, and > underneath shows the additional web plywood added, with no dimensions, so I > assumed the dimensions applied to caps only. And my spar material came very > close to 2-5/32, so that clinched it for me. > > Mark Langford > ML at N56ML.com > http://www.n56ml.com > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
KR> Revmaster R3000
wow, that R3000 is interesting! > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5
KR> Axles?
Matt, I ordered mine from Great Plains Aircraft (GPASC) back in 1998 for $54.95 for the kit. Contact then and ask for the 5/8" Pre Welded Axle Kit. Good Luck, Mark Jones (N886MJ) Dunedin, FL Mark Jones (N886MJ) Dunedin, FL flykr2s at gmail.com www.flykr2s.com On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 6:23 PM, Matt Quimby via KRnet wrote: > Hey all, I?m working on swapping my original retractable gear for Diehl > gear, and I?m hoping to reuse the 5? Azusa wheels. Only problem is, I can?t > seem to find an axle for them. Is there a source for 5/8? axles that will > mount to the Diehl lower bracket, or do I have to get the O?Brien axle > setup? Thanks. > > -Matt > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Spar dimensions
Chad wrote: > Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the > plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that > the cap only? Spar cap only. The "drawing number 12" covers spar and verticals, and underneath shows the additional web plywood added, with no dimensions, so I assumed the dimensions applied to caps only. And my spar material came very close to 2-5/32, so that clinched it for me. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Axles?
Hey all, I?m working on swapping my original retractable gear for Diehl gear, and I?m hoping to reuse the 5? Azusa wheels. Only problem is, I can?t seem to find an axle for them. Is there a source for 5/8? axles that will mount to the Diehl lower bracket, or do I have to get the O?Brien axle setup? Thanks. -Matt
KR> VW Engines
Thanks Miik, from this point forward I will refer to said business as GPASC. On Jun 22, 2016 4:40 PM, "Mike Stirewalt via KRnet" wrote: > "Re. Great planes. With all due respect Mark, and I mean that sincerely, > their has been the same man at the heart of Great Planes from the > beginning . . ." > > I've got about 900 hours on mine and trust it as much (or more) as I > would a Lycoming or Continental. I routinely fly at night and over wild > terrain. I expect it to give me some warning if some problem does seem > to be evolving - such as my voltmeter reading a little low recently. At > the very bottom of my list of concerns is a crank breaking. I re-did > the heads a couple hundred hours ago (just for fun, not because I needed > to) and the magneto needs servicing (it's 300+ hours beyond it's service > interval) but the prop hub seal does not leak nor does it have any other > leaks. It burns very, very little oil. It's never backfired. It > continues to be a great engine, put together by Steve himself. He ran it > at 2900 down low everywhere he went and I run it 3000 to 3200 up high, > everywhere I go. Where I normally fly it's producing about 50% - 55% > power at WOT so whether with Steve or with me this engine has led a > stress-free life, was put together well, and has been operated with > consistency - like an oil field or marine engine. Not like a hot rod. I > fully expect it to go another 900 hours without problems. It always > starts instantly and has only faltered once . . . thanks to Rimco > re-using old springs when they rebuilt the heads a long time before I > bought the plane from Steve. I have only good things to say about the > GP2180 with an Ellison. > > Having said that, if one is going to defend the reputation of GPASC, > please get the name spelled correctly :-). > > Mike > KSEE > > > Blazeray > Deemed: One Household Item Everyone Should Have In Any Emergency > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/576b0578723aa5782556st04vuc > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Elevator control cables.
At 08:53 AM 6/22/2016, you wrote: >Hi: I need some help on how to install the elevator control cables. I am >building a stock KR2, using cables for the elevator just like the plans. >I like to know if the two cables need to be the same lengths? >Should the elevator be in the down position or up position to install >the cables? >Everyone is welcome to help with some instruction. > >Larry Elrod ++ A tape measure may be close enough but you could use some type of string that doesn't stretch under tension to determine the length. They will be similar in length but remember to allow for any connecting fittings on each end and a turnbuckle at the stick end for final tensioning. Make the measurement with the elevator in neutral position although any position would work if the stick is in the same position for that elevator deflection. Neutral at both ends gives you least chance for error. Try not to assume this is more complicated than it is. Larry Flesner
KR> VW Engines
"Re. Great planes. With all due respect Mark, and I mean that sincerely, their has been the same man at the heart of Great Planes from the beginning . . ." I've got about 900 hours on mine and trust it as much (or more) as I would a Lycoming or Continental. I routinely fly at night and over wild terrain. I expect it to give me some warning if some problem does seem to be evolving - such as my voltmeter reading a little low recently. At the very bottom of my list of concerns is a crank breaking. I re-did the heads a couple hundred hours ago (just for fun, not because I needed to) and the magneto needs servicing (it's 300+ hours beyond it's service interval) but the prop hub seal does not leak nor does it have any other leaks. It burns very, very little oil. It's never backfired. It continues to be a great engine, put together by Steve himself. He ran it at 2900 down low everywhere he went and I run it 3000 to 3200 up high, everywhere I go. Where I normally fly it's producing about 50% - 55% power at WOT so whether with Steve or with me this engine has led a stress-free life, was put together well, and has been operated with consistency - like an oil field or marine engine. Not like a hot rod. I fully expect it to go another 900 hours without problems. It always starts instantly and has only faltered once . . . thanks to Rimco re-using old springs when they rebuilt the heads a long time before I bought the plane from Steve. I have only good things to say about the GP2180 with an Ellison. Having said that, if one is going to defend the reputation of GPASC, please get the name spelled correctly :-). Mike KSEE Blazeray Deemed: One Household Item Everyone Should Have In Any Emergency http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/576b0578723aa5782556st04vuc
KR> 500F a few times at 45 MAP
> They have seen 500F a few times at 45? MAP, but for now at lest have had zero > issues with the valves. Yikes Jeff! I would keep wearing the safety gear ;-) Good luck, Owen
KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 163
Thanks Larry! I was don?t know if I need to mess with the primer, just hoping to cut weight wherever I can. Mostly I think we?ll just go light on fill and prime. Cheers, Owen > On Jun 22, 2016, at 9:00 AM, krnet-request at list.krnet.org wrote: > > Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:40:33 -0700 > From: Lawrence Bell mailto:lebell8978 at gmail.com>> > To: KRnet mailto:krnet at list.krnet.org>> > Subject: Re: KR> micro balloons in high build primer? > Message-ID: >
KR> Elevator control cables.
Hi: I need some help on how to install the elevator control cables. I am building a stock KR2, using cables for the elevator just like the plans. I like to know if the two cables need to be the same lengths? Should the elevator be in the down position or up position to install the cables? Everyone is welcome to help with some instruction. Thanks Larry Elrod
KR> [EXTERNAL] Spar dimensions
Will come down later to pick it up. -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of (null) (null) via KRnet Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 9:20 AM To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: (null) (null) Subject: [EXTERNAL] KR> Spar dimensions Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that the cap only? Thank you Chad Sent from my iPhone ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Gathering update
Thanks to John Bouyea the Gathering web page has been updated with the Gathering schedule. In addition to the traditional engine and airframe forums, Paul Visk has arranged for several other presentations / forums that should be of interest to attendees. Check it out at: http://www.bouyea.net/KRGathering/ or go to www.krnet.org and find the Gathering link at the top of the page. See you there Larry Flesner
KR> micro balloons in high build primer?
The question was if anyone used micro in high build primer. I don't see an answer to that only other solutions to paint. My answer: I have used Micro in high build primer. It is worth a try. If you use too much it makes the paint soft for a long time. I think if you work with the right mix, which is enough to give you more body but not so much that it does not get hard, you may like it. You can't fill anything too deep. The method of micro in resin has never been very useful to me. It takes a lot of sanding and never seems to get it all the imperfections. Of course if you make a perfect substructure you are all set, good luck on that. In the build process everyone has their own favorite process. The key is to find the one that works for you. The 4" foam rollers idea is good and worked real well for me. I got them from Home Depot. The other thing is, after the high build primer and micro use a real good polyurethane paint and it will help harden the primer. I am a long ways from a professional painter but after trying just about everything I settled with that. This is only meant to answer your question not to say this is the bets method. Larry Bell On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 7:49 AM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet < krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote: > I used Smooth Prime put on with a roller when I repainted mine and I > really liked it. Only comment I have on it is to make sure you vacuum > or blow off the surface after sanding before you put on another coat of > primer or the final paint. You can get some small bubbles in it and > when you sand off the top of the bubbles you wind up with pin holes. > Not a lot of them and no problem to fill them, but if you don't blow off > or vacuum the surface they fill with the sanding dust and you don't know > they are there until you see them after spraying your final coat. I > filled the pin holes with icing and a quick sand in no time at all. > > > Original Message > Subject: Re: KR> micro balloons in high build primer? > From: Larry Flesner via KRnet > Date: Tue, June 21, 2016 6:33 pm > To: KRnet > Cc: Larry Flesner > > > > I used Smooth Prime ( > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/smoothprime.php?clickkey=30869 > > ) 15 years ago when finishing my KR. It seems a bit expensive now > but it wasn't cheap back then either. I don't recall how much it > took but certainly not the three gallon it suggest in the ad, maybe a > gallon and a quart. It is water based and I put it on a bit at a > time with a 4 inch foam roll as I finished different areas of the > plane. I covered it with cheap auto paint ($40 a gallon in early > 2000) and it still looks like the day it was painted. Paint was > never buffed out and I still have two spots on the left wing that > have been in primer since 2004 where I cut in to the wing to fix a > fuel leak. Nobody every notices the primer spots and I've just never > bothered to paint them. > > The trick to eliminating fill is to get the foam right, get a good > glass lay up, then cover with "deck cloth" for minimum fill. If you > look "real close" you can see one of the primer spots in the photo. > > https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/024_24.JPG > > Larry Flesner > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Spar dimensions
Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that the cap only? Thank you Chad Sent from my iPhone
KR> micro balloons in high build primer?
I used Smooth Prime put on with a roller when I repainted mine and I really liked it. Only comment I have on it is to make sure you vacuum or blow off the surface after sanding before you put on another coat of primer or the final paint. You can get some small bubbles in it and when you sand off the top of the bubbles you wind up with pin holes. Not a lot of them and no problem to fill them, but if you don't blow off or vacuum the surface they fill with the sanding dust and you don't know they are there until you see them after spraying your final coat. I filled the pin holes with icing and a quick sand in no time at all. Original Message Subject: Re: KR> micro balloons in high build primer? From: Larry Flesner via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tue, June 21, 2016 6:33 pm To: KRnet Cc: Larry Flesner I used Smooth Prime ( http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/smoothprime.php?clickkey=30869 ) 15 years ago when finishing my KR. It seems a bit expensive now but it wasn't cheap back then either. I don't recall how much it took but certainly not the three gallon it suggest in the ad, maybe a gallon and a quart. It is water based and I put it on a bit at a time with a 4 inch foam roll as I finished different areas of the plane. I covered it with cheap auto paint ($40 a gallon in early 2000) and it still looks like the day it was painted. Paint was never buffed out and I still have two spots on the left wing that have been in primer since 2004 where I cut in to the wing to fix a fuel leak. Nobody every notices the primer spots and I've just never bothered to paint them. The trick to eliminating fill is to get the foam right, get a good glass lay up, then cover with "deck cloth" for minimum fill. If you look "real close" you can see one of the primer spots in the photo. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/024_24.JPG Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Owen, Primer.
I'm not a good person to ask about primer as it seems the last primer decision I made has dumped serious labor hours on me. The last 3 days I have had 12 hour sanding marathons with 1 more tomorrow. I'm sure somebody on here has a much better way than the nasty crap I'm dealing with. On a lighter note, I have no need to go to the gym. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854
KR> What drones carry
For those who don't subscribe to Avweb you've probably missed this one. Notice the tiny little ADS-B technology about halfway through from one of the new companies we've never heard of. I've seen these systems getting smaller and cheaper as time goes by and this is yet another example. Complying with ADS-B in/out when the time comes will be a non-issue - probably on a par with the cost of an ELT - if ELT's are even required by that time. And if they are - they should also be a lot cheaper by then. https://goo.gl/ZG4N2S I'm hopeful this technology will contribute in a very effective way to stop illegal logging, illegal fishing, elephant poaching currently going on in massive fashion in Africa (thanks to the Chinese desire for ivory - for some weird reason) and the general raping of the environment by double-digits who obviously haven't figured out a better way to make a living. Drones may actually help save what's left of the planet, in addition to their many other applications. Sending appropriately armed swarms of them over into jihadist territory could concievably put those fanatics in the holes where they belong and do so with minimum loss of American lives. I don't have one and don't plan on getting one since I have no use for one, but I'm sure impressed with their capabilities. Funnie.st 43 Hilarious Times Dads Were In Charge http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/576a39e7893d639e66a3cst04vuc
