KR> Paints (abnd dopes) comparison
I supervised the recover of both a Taylorcraft and a TriPacer with Stewarts system in the last few years.?? I have to say, the TriPacer came out exceptionally nice as the owner also put a lot of $$ and work into it besides just the cover.? But the Stewart system is simple and relatively easy to do if you follow their instructions.? I didn't care for the cost of the Stewart systems, but otherwise I thought it was a good covering system.? ? I have also covered using the Nitrate/Butyrate, and Polyfiber systems.? All of them work well, although the Stewarts system is significantly less toxic to work with. ? I have also done quite a bit of paint work as well, although I don't consider myself to be anywhere near a "professional" quality painter.? However, I have used a lot of different types of paints.? Stewarts would not be at the top of my list of paints that I would use on wood and/or glass.? However, I do understand using it because of the lower toxicity.? I'll write my evaluation of the various types of paints below based on the last 20 years of painting planes and cars, some of which came out really good, and some of which didn't. All of these paints must be used with either a fresh air source into a hood, or a chemical and particulate respirator along with an adequate quantity of fresh air. ? Acrylic Enamel - The first professional paint I ever used.? I found it to be easy to spray as long as you were close to the recommended temperatures, but found that once cured, it chips quite easily and tends to be pretty brittle, so touch ups and repaints are in your future if you use it. Also pretty toxic stuff. ? PolyUrethane - Can be difficult to paint. Loves to "Orange Peel" if anything is less than perfect for conditions. But leaves a gorgeous finish in the event you get everything right. Sticks to darned near anything. Is also pretty flexible as I have shot this on top of dope and fabric and haven't seen any kind of significant cracking after 5 years of service. Probably one of the most toxic paints you can use. Also, many PolyUrethane paints are quite expensive >$300/gal. (I found the overspray from PolyUrethane stuck to my next door neighbors $150K Cirrus very nicely, which was a lot of work for us to clean back to "new" condition). Base Coat (urethane) / Clear Coat (PolyUrethane)- The Urethane Base coat is so easy it's like spraying primer. You get spoiled by shooting the base coat. Then you spray the clear coat. Well, it's clear, so takes really good lighting to be able to see how you're spraying. Like the PolyUrethane above, it loves to "Orange Peel" and is really easy to get runs and sags since it's clear and you can't see it. Also, since it is a PolyUrethane, it's pretty darned toxic. However, you can lightly sand and polish out the runs, sags and orange peel to make it look good. Acrylic Urethane - My current favorite. Sprays easy like Acrylic Enamel. Even uses the same catalyst. But is much more flexible when cured, and seems to be as tough and durable as PolyUrethane. This paint seems to have the good qualities of spraying easy like Acrylic Enamel with the shine, durability, and flexibility of PolyUrethane. But, it's still high on the toxicity scale. This is what I recommend for amateur painters like myself as I get good results with a shiny durable finish without the need for a paint booth and superior lighting. Stewarts Acrylic Urethane - You want to follow the directions to the letter including prep work. No short cuts. If you stay within their directions, it paints reasonably well and will give you a good finish. It's used over fabric, so is clearly flexible and has reasonable durability. Stewarts is the least toxic of all of these paints and there is a lot to be said for using water as your reducer and for clean up rather than chemicals that like to attack your liver when inhaled or exposed to your skin. Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM I know just enough about painting to make a really big mess! ? ? ? ? Sent:?Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 1:30 PM From:?"Doran Jaffas via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Doran Jaffas" Subject:?Re: KR> Smooth Prime problems I have the Stewart Systems DVD instruction set. I plan on using it on my Tri Pacer in a cpl of years. School of Missionary Aviation Training at Y70 uses it exclusively. I looked at several systems and I like Stewarts the best. Great Luck to You!! Doran Jaffas Rob wrote: ... My 1st finish paint job was sprayed on using a "Boat" acrylic enamel. That didn't last. My second paint job was Stewart Systems and it seems to be holding up much better (rolled on). A reminder to everyone. Stewart Systems will be doing a forum Saturday morning at the Gathering ?
KR> Facet pumps in series
Question Can you plumb 2 facet pumps in series and will each run the engine if the other fails. I have been trying to plumb them in parallel but its a real pain to get the tubing all bent correctly. Series would be much easier. It looks like the Zenith 601 was doing it at one time. Not sure they still are. Thanks. Craig www.kr2seafury.com www.N1160Hminiplane.com
KR> Facet pumps in series
Craig Williams wrote: > Can you plumb 2 facet pumps in series and will each run the engine > if the other fails? It may depend on exactly which model you buy, but I did exactly that with N56ML and N891JF, using the Facet 40108 that is commonly sold by AS and Wicks. See http://www.n56ml.com/fuel/ for more on that. The first photo down appears as though there's a "cross" in the system, but they are simply overlapping with a tie-wrap to secure the flex hose end. I get a slight fuel pressure boost on N56ML with both pumps running, but I keep the same pressure regardless on N891JF by using a pressure regulator inline that maintains 3 psi. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Smooth Prime problems
I have the Stewart Systems DVD instruction set. I plan on using it on my Tri Pacer in a cpl of years. School of Missionary Aviation Training at Y70 uses it exclusively. I looked at several systems and I like Stewarts the best. Great Luck to You!! Doran Jaffas Rob wrote: ... My 1st finish paint job was sprayed on using a "Boat" acrylic enamel. That didn't last. My second paint job was Stewart Systems and it seems to be holding up much better (rolled on). A reminder to everyone. Stewart Systems will be doing a forum Saturday morning at the Gathering Paul Visk Belleville IL 618 406 4705 Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Smooth Prime problems
?Rob wrote: ... My 1st finish paint job was sprayed on using a "Boat" acrylic enamel.? That didn't last. My second paint job was Stewart Systems and it seems to be holding up much better (rolled on). A reminder to everyone. ?Stewart Systems will be doing a forum Saturday morning at the Gathering Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705 Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4
KR> Time-Out's over - assuming civility again
OK, let's try again to be civil to each other. I probably should have simply thrown the offenders off the list and been done with it, but I was in no mood to deal with this while I was at work. Those involved can consider themselves on probation. Once again, the purpose of this email list is to help others build and fly KR aircraft (or anything similar), not to tear each other down for sport! As we've just seen, little jabs (even if followed by smiley faces) can light off big bombs. Please refrain from either side of this behavior. Given that many people apparently can't find the rules on a website, they are reprinted below. Please read and comply with them, especially you smart phone users who haven't bothered to figure out how to delete the majority of the last post before you add your two cents worth to it and repost it all over again. 1) Think long and hard before you publicly flame somebody on this list. This list may not be like others you've been on. We don't do that here, period. If you have a personal problem with another lister, you need to address it off the list and spare the rest of us your angst. If you disagree with something somebody else posted, you can disagree in a nice manner without getting all bent out of shape. Just point out your side of the discussion and let others be the judge. Public flaming and superfluous bad language will not be tolerated. 2) When replying to a post, delete everything except one or two key sentences from the previous post. It's really ridiculous to have to search thru 3 or 4 pages of stuff to find down at the bottom where some clown wrote "me too". Carrying all that useless baggage around from previous posts also gives people fits when searching the archives later, as they end up getting 10 hits for the same message. 3) Conversely, at least put SOMETHING in the post to remind us what you're replying to. A post like "yeah, that's how I did mine and it works great" doesn't mean a thing if you don't know what the guy's talking about, so please cut and paste some of what you're replying to above your comments. 4) Carefully consider whether or not you even need to reply to a post. Saying "me too", or "I don't know" doesn't contribute to the thread, it just makes the list more bothersome. If you don't know what you're talking about, maybe you should be listening, rather than talking. There are FEW people who know everything about everything. Try to stick to things you KNOW about, and let others answer the rest. A corollary to this is if you find yourself making more than five posts in a single day, you probably need to "stifle yourself"! 5) Try to write "keeper" posts if you're the expert on something. Cover the whole issue, answer all possible questions, address both sides of an issue, and make it a post that others will want to save or print out and keep. Those are the gems that we all search for on KRNet. 6) Put your name and email address in your signature to make emailing others "offnet" easier. If we all had our addresses at the bottom of our posts, it would be far easier to "email direct". If it's blue just click on it, if it's not, cut it and paste it into the "To" box. If throwing your email address out on the internet makes you nervous (and it should), camoflage it a little by replacing the @ symbol with "at", or something similar, so that bot crawlers won't know what to do with it. 7) If you don't have anything substantial to say, please don't post anything. This is a KR list, and as such, really needs to stay focused on KRs, or at least airplanes. With over 600 people on the list, if we all decided to say something every day we'd have a real problem. Ask yourself "do 600 people really need to see this, or are 600 people going to be annoyed by this?" Personally, my time is pretty precious to me, and I hate to waste it reading inane email. And is it something that you could find somewhere else? 8) Don't send enclosed files (except small photos) directly to the list. Either post it to a web site or get someone else to post it so others can see if they want, but don't have to if they don't. Also, enclosures are famous for carrying viruses, which we could all do without. I usually delete messages with enclosures immediately, unless I'm expecting something from that person. I don't have three days to rebuild my computer "for fun". And by all means, arm yourself with an anti-virus program such as Malwarebytes. It's free and it works better than most. There are other FREE antivirus programs out there. GET ONE! 9) If you have something you want to share, specify that you want replies to go offline. It's nice to say "hey, I've got the holy grail on thingamajigs, anybody want it?", but when 15 people reply online that they want it it gets kinda painful wading thru all of those posts for nothing. A gentle reminder to "reply offline" and furnishing your email address will be a big help.
