KR> plywood question

[Allen Wiesner]

The basic floor is 3/32" Birch or Mahogany with a 1/4" Birch layer on top from 
the firewall to the back side of the "B" stringer.  The plans call for it to 
stop dead there but I gave it a 30 degree taper to blend it into the basic 
floor, which I made from Birch (but I'm a big guy :-) ).  Both shelves are also 
1/4" Birch, as is the firewall and the triangular stiffeners on the inside at 
"D", which also are 3/32" Birch.  The aft shelf is called out as 3/32" ply, 
type 
your choice, but there is a non-Rand safety revision recommending a 1/4" Birch 
addition for the shoulder harness attach points.  I made my shelf from Birch, 
running from the top of the seat back stringer to the back side of "J" and  
longeron to longeron and added the 1/4" underneath stringers/longerons, running 
from the seat back to the "I" stringer; but thinking back on it, it should be 
from "I" to "J" to give a better angle to the shoulder harness attach points.  
See ML's website for an alternate attach point for the shoulder harnesses, in 
which case you wouldn't need the 1/4" piece.  


 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508


"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".





From: "bdazzca...@aol.com" 
To: kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Sun, August 28, 2011 3:05:12 AM
Subject: Re: KR> plywood question

nose section floor by the firewall, shelf, seatbelt attachment area 
firewall itself.

David


In a message dated 8/27/2011 2:52:33 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
da...@windstream.net writes:

The nose  section?  What do you mean by nose section?  If you are  referring
to the leading edge of the wing, you don't put plywood on the  leading edge
of the wing on a "plans built" KR.

Come to the  gathering and find out all you ever wanted to know about
building a KR, and  probably stuff you don't know that you want to know.

See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 -  KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it  never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington,  SC


-Original Message-
I forgot what kind of plywood we  use around the  nose section?  


___
Search the KRnet  Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from  KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info  at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Pneumatic retracts on a KR2S

[Allen Wiesner]

You've got to let the site cycle thru all 3 videos; #1 is the machining bit, #2 
is the engine, & # 3 is the MLG.
As for the engine in #2, the comment says that it's a ?small block? from a 
Chevy 
Blazer.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".






I didn't see any pneumatic retract mechanism.  I did see a servo motor  
driving an ACME screw.  The next video had a KR2 with a V6 of some kind in  in. 
Looked like a belted air power reduction drive setup.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDLinTFgwbc=autoplay=UL-GgBwI4te
io=3=1

KR> aeropoxy

[Allen Wiesner]

I don't know about Aeropoxy, but I had an old (?'08?) qt. of Polypoxy that was 
about 1/2 wax that I put into a pot of boiling water for an hour back in 
October.  It turned back into clear liquid and has worked fine since.  You 
could 
try it with the Aeropoxy, if it works, great; if not, you've only lost a little 
time & gas/electric BTU's. 


 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".






>Can Aeropoxy, part A resin be rejuvenated if it has gelled? I know that T-88 
>can 
>be brought back to use if it crystalizes by warming. Is the same true for 
>>Aeropoxy resin or should it be discarded. About a third of the volume has 
>stiffened into a gel.

WARNING: two infected sites, Re KR> I have something really wonderful for you! & John Skorczewski's Re KR>-no subject

[Allen Wiesner]

Spybot has kicked out both of these sites.

 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508


"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".





From: RICHARD ALPS 
To: kr...@mylist.net; ramie1ram...@hotmail.com
Sent: Tue, November 9, 2010 12:59:54 PM
Subject: KR> I have something really wonderful for you!

http://bit.ly/byw8LR

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Help Needed mixing Vinyl Ester

[Allen Wiesner]

Again, I've got 1/2 cc syringes for insulin, marked as "50 units" and with 1 
unit graduations, i.e. 1/100th of a cc.  I'll gladly send all you need or ask 
around locally, any diabetic friend or relative should have them available.

 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508


"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".





From: Mark Langford 
To: KRnet 
Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 10:43:48 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Help Needed mixing Vinyl Ester

Dan Heath wrote:

> My instructions that came with the VE say 5oz to a pint.  No way I need to
> mix a pint at a time.

I don't have my finished-up can of vinylester with me, but I'm pretty sure 
it says 5 CC's of resin per pint, rather than 5 ounces!  I don't think my 
gallon came with but about 3 ounces total of catalyst anyway.  I'm guessing 
that five ounces could cook off and cause a small thermonuclear explosion 
that could possible take out 4-5 neighboring hangars in about two 
nanoseconds after mixing.  So assuming my memory isn't completely gone on 
this, I used a tiny syringe about half the size of a pencil, which was 
something like ONE cc for the whole thing, graduated in tenths of a cc.  I 
mixed 4 or 8 ounces at a time to do my fuel tank, because any more than that 
would go exothermic and harden solid in 12 minutes in the hundred degree 
heat of my hangar this summer.  I found that 1cc syringe in some old stuff 
of Jim Hill's, and my veterinarian brother confirmed that he uses them on 
occasion.  Local farm coops are known to sell syringes, and even the drug 
store might sell you a pack of them for cheap with the needles removed. 
Your local vet would probably give you his old ones with the needles removed 
if you asked him.  Your mileage will probably vary, of course...

Mark Langford
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> KR2 cockpit

[Allen Wiesner]

The longerons in the spruce kit are 14' long, so why not use all of that to 
make 
the fuselage wider, that's what I did.  Actually, mine were bought loose from 
Wicks and actually came out to 14' - 1 1/2".  I've also built the fuselage a 
little bit differently, first the top (upside down), then the bottom on top of 
it with 4 simple jigs (firewall, standard dim's of 36" (top) & 31 - 3/4" 
(bottom) but 19" deep; station "D" dim's, 42 - 1/2" (top) & 38 - 1/4" (bottom) 
for width & 24" deep;  station "H" dim's, 46" (top) & 41" (bottom) &23" deep; 
and tailpost at 12" deep instead of 11") and then tied the two together with 
the 
side stringers.  Advantages, no "banana boat" and less stress on everything but 
the longerons since the skins are added after all of the above; disadvantages, 
all of the side stringers need to be fitted in 3 dimensions at both ends.  Also 
I've added 2 - 1/2" to the front (i.e. 8" / 9" & 10" bays) and a 14" bay to the 
rear.

This may sound complicated but I simply needed blocks on the outside of the top 
longerons at the firewall and tail and on the inside at "H" and let the 5/8" 
sq. 
spruce take a fair curve.  I then glued in the doublers, top stringers & all 
their gussets.  The jigs at "D" & "H" were simple 1" x 2" fir posts with 
triangular braces to support a horizontal support at "D" (23 - 3/8" for the 
longeron to rest on top of) and 2 vertical supports at "H" (39 - 3/4" outside 
dim's).  The lower engine support and compression brace took care of the 
firewall positioning and the tailpost took care of the rear.  All I had to do 
was lay the lower longerons on top of the "D" support and pull them in / down 
using "spanish windlasses to meet the other supports.  again, the longerons 
took 
a fair curve and I just added all of the bottom stringers & their gussets and 
then tied the top & bottom together with the side stringers & gussets.  Last 
step was to add the bottom skin and side skins.


Even if you stay with the standard dim's. otherwise, you can still make the 
boat 
as wide as you want, but I'd keep it inside the width of a standard piece of 
plywood, both for the build table & the bottom skin.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".




>From what I have read the cockpit is 36 inches wide for the KR2. I am 
>interested 
>in this plane for 2 and would like any feedback on comfort for 2. I notice 
>other 
>>cockpits are wider but like the KR design most.  Any input would be 
>appreciated.

KR> Vinylester Fuel Tanks

[Allen Wiesner]

There's tiny and then there's just small.  1/2 cc equals 50 units of insulin,
i.e. a standard syringe for anybody with Type II diabetes.  Don't ask me
how I know.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".

P.S.  I'll send a couple to anybody who needs them, but druggies need not apply,
'cause I'll snap off the needles first.




Sid Wood wrote:

>> The catalyst to activate the vinylester resin can be adjusted for the
>> ambient temperature; use more or less catalyst: 0.5 cc catalyst per 8 oz
>> resin for 20 minute working times at 100 degrees F versus 3 cc catalyst 
>> per 8 oz at 60 degrees F.  The manufacturer's info sheet has the call-outs.

Mark Langford wrote:

>That sounds easy, but even with a tiny syringe half the diameter of a 
>pencil, a half cc is a tiny amount of liquid.  If I remember correctly, I 
>was down to a matter of drops, and this stuff still cooked like crazy.  It 
>may have been over promoted...I don't know.

KR> Home brew Penetrationg oil.

[Allen Wiesner]

I don't know, I think it depends on the brand / type of ATF.
I bummed some from my local Ford dealer during an oil change
but the Acetone / ATF mixture didn't mix, they just sat there and 
glared at each other.

 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".







> Does anyone have the formula for the home-brew penetrating oil that was 
> tested against the leading brands.

50% acetone, 50% ATF.  Somebody at work said it was a myth and didn't work 
for them, but others on the list say it does work.  Snopes has no comment on 
it...

Mark Langford
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net

KR> Taxi Tests

[Allen Wiesner]

>I don't believe I could taxi at your reported speed with no wings, and in 
>addition allow the tail wheel to get lightie: less noise..., I would 
>have liked to have been there. Rock on

 Additionally, there was a Corsair that got off the ground (briefly) with the 
wings folded during the Korean War and a SPAD (AD-#?) that tried to do the same 
in Vietnam.
Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS S/N 1118 T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 
 
203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings". 

KR>fasteners

[Allen Wiesner]

>Run a tap through the anchor nut before you use it, and you will never have 
>this problem.  It is a simple >solution to this problem.

Doesn't that ruin the self-locking feature of the nut?  It is my understanding 
that both plain and floating all metal nutplates ae made by the same process as 
MS21042 nuts.
 Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS S/N 1118 T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 

203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings". 

KR> fasteners

[Allen Wiesner]

 I avoid the floating type, like the plague.

Why? 
Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS S/N 1118 T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 

203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings". 

KR> Cleaning Brushes and Buying Peel Ply

[Allen Wiesner]

I've been using "polyester coat lining" from Wal-Mart; no real problems 
removing it after the epoxy cures,
but I also use a plastic sheet (drip cloth from HD) over it and squeegee 
everything well to remove as much
epoxy as possible, almost  like a vacuum layup. 

 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".






Also: I need to buy some peel ply for the fiberglass layup. I was told I could 
just go to any fabric store to save on shipping from Aircraft spruce, but no 
one at JoAnn's knew what I was needing, any suggestions?

KR> KR2S PLANS

[Allen Wiesner]

FWIW

In the standard assembly procedure "N" is supposed to be left out until the 
Stab. is installed.
When I started I had had a full scale print made of the side layout and 
measured all of the stringers.
"N" measured 10.75", inside to inside on the longerons, but note that that is 
the vertical (flat) dimension.
That's all the info I have since the Fat Lady is oversize in all dim's. and 
since she has been built using a different 
assembly procedure.  

 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508


"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".





From: Bill Weir 
To: kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Thursday, December 4, 2008 8:06:50 AM
Subject: KR> KR2S PLANS

Have just started KR2S and am laying out sides on table. Using the plans sheet 
for the 'S is good until I come to the rear. I guess what I need is the 
dimension for "N". Like, Help".

Bill Weir
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> AS5048 airfoil

[Allen Wiesner]

>From: GARY ROBISON 

>Subject: KR> AS5048 airfoil

>I have the coordinates for the AS5048 from the kr net but I get a squiggle 
>in them on the lower one at the leading edge

>If some one has another set would you send them to me or post them ??

>I am trying to get a print out of an intermediate foil at the waf's with my 
>bent spars I bought the software and the AS5045
>coordinates seem right but the 5048 is not (I took the "0" s off)

I had also plotted out the AS5048 coordinates (Dec. 06) and came up with
the same problem.  AIR, I had passed the corrected info back to ML but I 
can't find the MSG now.  In any case, looking at the numbers in my plot, I
think that the error (s) is/are in lines 42 through 44 and they should read
as follows:

X Y My Comments

Line 41 .00240.01003 O.K.
Line 42 .00041.00424 Was Line 43
Line 43 .00014.00239 Was Line 42
Line 44 .00441   -.00990 Needs the "minus" sign
Line 45 .01248   -.01556 O.K.

To make the curve come out right on my old version of TurboCad I also had
to add a Line 43A with X and Y both as .0.  Hope this helps, and maybe
ML can correct me if I've got it wrong.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508

"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".

KR> Test

[Allen Wiesner]

Seeing if this goes through.  I've tried to send a post on fuselage length 
twice with no show.

Al

KR> test

[Allen Wiesner]

Test.

KR> Fuselage Length

[Allen Wiesner]

For David Swanson and for general info:

  Note that the following is for my fuselage only, AND it is still under 
construction.

  1.  The longerons I got from Wicks during the '05 Fly-In (anyone remember the 
PVC sewer pipe tied to the roof of my mini-van?) measured 168 1/2" or 14" 1/2".

  2.  I am trying to make my "boat" without the "banana" so the following 
dimensions apply only to my fuselage.
  A.  I first built the top frame flat on the table with the longerons bent to 
a fair curve, glued the doublers to them, then added all the upper 
lateral/diagonal stringers & gussets.  The dimensions are: 162" from the front 
edge of the firewall to the afl edge of the tail post (tail post = fin aft 
spar) & 40" wide at the firewall going to 46" wide at "H*, (shoulders / seat 
back) (6" behind "H", wing aft spar) and then narrowing to the tail post.  The 
longitudinal spacing is: "A" (firewall) to "B", 8", "B" to "C", 9", & "C" to 
"D" (wing front spar), 10", for a total of 27"; and a total of 6 - 14" bays and 
one 13" bay from "H" (rear wing spar) to the stabilizer forward spar with 
another 12" to the tail post.  That took 13'  9" total of the longerons, but 1" 
of that is left forward of the firewall and glued to a temporary stringer to 
hold things together until I can add the upper firewall supports.
  B.  I then made some simple jigs to hold the lower firewall 
support/compression brace/lower longerons in place above the table/upper frame 
and added all the lower lateral stringers.  The dimensions are: 18" deep (high) 
at the firewall, going to 24" deep at "D", and then back down to 12" at the 
tail post (with the 7 degree tilt of the tail post, that makes it 160 53/64" 
long) & from 16" wide at the firewall to 40" wide at "H", then in to the tail 
post.  That also took 13' 8" of the longeron material; so in my case, the 
downward curve of the bottom longerons makes up for the leeser outward curve.

  I am now in the process of adding all the vertical/diagonal stringers to 
connect the upper & lower frames and plan to add the bottom skin next.  I'll 
then free the frame from the jigs, turn it right side up, and add the upper 
engine supports/structure and the side skins.  Hoped for result: straight and 
flat upper longerons and a firewall at 90 degrees to the run of the upper 
frame.  Fron the above dimensions, you can see why I call her "The Fat Lady"

  Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS 1118, T/D / CorvAir
  65 Franklin Street
  Ansonia, CT 06401-1240

  203-732-0508

  allenwies...@sbcglobal.net

  "It ain't over til the fat lady sings"

KR> Fuselage Length

[Allen Wiesner]

Tried sending this earlier, didn't see it come back.

For David Swanson and for general info:   
  Note that the following is for my fuselage only, AND it is still under 
construction.

  1.  The longerons I got from Wicks during the '05 Fly-In (anyone remember the 
PVC sewer pipe tied to the roof of my mini-van?) measured 168 1/2" or 14" 1/2".

  2.  I am trying to make my "boat" without the "banana" so the following 
dimensions apply only to my fuselage.
  A.  I first built the top frame flat on the table with the longerons bent to 
a fair curve, glued the doublers to them, then added all the upper 
lateral/diagonal stringers & gussets.  The dimensions are: 162" from the front 
edge of the firewall to the afl edge of the tail post (tail post = fin aft 
spar) & 40" wide at the firewall going to 46" wide at "H*, (shoulders / seat 
back) (6" behind "H", wing aft spar) and then narrowing to the tail post.  The 
longitudinal spacing is: "A" (firewall) to "B", 8", "B" to "C", 9", & "C" to 
"D" (wing front spar), 10", for a total of 27"; and a total of 6 - 14" bays and 
one 13" bay from "H" (rear wing spar) to the stabilizer forward spar with 
another 12" to the tail post.  That took 13'  9" total of the longerons, but 1" 
of that is left forward of the firewall and glued to a temporary stringer to 
hold things together until I can add the upper firewall supports.
  B.  I then made some simple jigs to hold the lower firewall 
support/compression brace/lower longerons in place above the table/upper frame 
and added all the lower lateral stringers.  The dimensions are: 18" deep (high) 
at the firewall, going to 24" deep at "D", and then back down to 12" at the 
tail post (with the 7 degree tilt of the tail post, that makes it 160 53/64" 
long) & from 16" wide at the firewall to 40" wide at "H", then in to the tail 
post.  That also took 13' 8" of the longeron material; so in my case, the 
downward curve of the bottom longerons makes up for the leeser outward curve.

  I am now in the process of adding all the vertical/diagonal stringers to 
connect the upper & lower frames and plan to add the bottom skin next.  I'll 
then free the frame from the jigs, turn it right side up, and add the upper 
engine supports/structure and the side skins.  Hoped for result: straight and 
flat upper longerons and a firewall at 90 degrees to the run of the upper 
frame.  Fron the above dimensions, you can see why I call her "The Fat Lady"

  Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS 1118, T/D / CorvAir
  65 Franklin Street
  Ansonia, CT 06401-1240

  203-732-0508

  allenwies...@sbcglobal.net

  "It ain't over til the fat lady sings"

KR> Glue Joints not holding

[Allen Wiesner]

It sounds like your batch of resin is NG.  In my experience the resin is 
thinner than the hardener.  

  Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS #1118 TD/CorvAir
  65 Franklin Street
  Ansonia, CT 06401
  203-732-0508

  allenwies...@sbcglobal.net

  "It ain't over til the fat lady sings"


Brad Payne  wrote:
  To Clarify, After Mixing, my T88 is a milky off-white almost like
toothpaste. The viscosity is like thick honey. Prior to mixing the resin
is clear and thick and the hardner is the color of honey and slightly more
fluid than the resin. Sometimes it becomes slightly warm while mixing or
very shortly after.

What color is your T88 after mixing?

Thanks!


Phil Matheson said:

> I do not understand the mix ( uniform white paste)

>The T88 I have used was an amber colour, and mixed up to a honey
consistency.


-- 
Brad Payne
www.n494bp.com
bradleyspa...@gmail.com
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Repair to a Longeron

[Allen Wiesner]

I had bent the lower fuselage longerons to the shape of the fuselage this 
morning with no (apparent) problem.  Went out to do some shopping this 
afternoon and when I returned I found one had snapped about 4' from the front 
end.  Should I scarf in a new piece and then swap ends so that the joint is in 
the straight rear section; or do I go to the expense of ordering and paying 
freight shipping for a new 14' piece?  

It ain't over till the fat lady sings.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS #1118, TD/Corvair
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401
203-732-0508

KR> Where is everyone.

[Allen Wiesner]

  >Anyone else willing to start talking about what they have accomplished on 
there >project?


  O.K.  I started on my fuselage around the first of the year.  I am doing the 
assembly somewhat differently to see if I can do away with the "banana boat".  
I am building it upside down and started with both top longerons on the build 
table, added the doublers and then all the top stringers and gussets.  Next 
were some simple jigs to:  1:  hold the lower firewall support & compression 
brace in place above the table,  2:  hold the lower longerons in place at "D" 
(the deepest point) and "H" (the widest point), and 3:  hold a tail post in 
place.  (Since I'm doing this in the living room of a second floor apartment I 
can't add the rear spar of the fin now; if I did, I'd never get it out the door 
.)  Last weekend I had used some nylon cord to tie the lower longerons to the 
jigs and got some nice curves.  I went out for a few hours and came back to 
find that one had broken at "D" .  So, Sunday was spent scarfing a new piece on 
the longeron, and that end will now be used at the
 rear end where it's reasonably straight.  I've just finished gluing the lower 
engine support & compression brace together at the correct angle.  They will go 
on the jig and then I'll make up a steamer with a piece of water pipe to steam 
the lower longerons so that I (hopefully) won't have any more problems with 
them. Once they are in place, I'll add all the lower stringers/gussets and the 
tie the upper and lower assemblies together with all the side (vertical) 
stringers/gussets.  I'll then add the bottom plywood skin, free it from the 
jigs, add the upper engine supports, etc. and add the side skins.  I'll keep 
updating this to let everybody know how it all works out.   

  Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS s/n 1118, TD/CorvAir
  65 Franklin Street
  Ansonia, CT  06401-1240
  203-732-0508

  "It ain't over til the fat lady sings."

KR> Where is everyone.

[Allen Wiesner]

>Anyone else willing to start talking about what they have accomplished on 
there >project?


  O.K., here goes.  I started on my fuselage around the first of the year.  I 
am doing the assembly somewhat differently to see if I can do away with the 
"banana boat".  I am building it upside down and started with both top 
longerons on the build table, added the doublers and then all the top stringers 
and gussets.  Next were some simple jigs to:  1:  hold the lower firewall 
support & compression brace in place above the table,  2:  hold the lower 
longerons in place at "D" (the deepest (highest) point) and "H" (the widest 
point), and 3:  hold a tail post in place.  (Since I'm doing this in the living 
room of a second floor apartment I can't add the rear spar of the fin now; if I 
did, I'd never get it out the door .)  Last weekend I had used some nylon cord 
to tie the lower longerons to the jigs and got some nice curves.  I went out 
for a few hours and came back to find that one had broken at "D" .  So, Sunday 
was spent scarfing a new piece on the longeron, and that end
 will now be used at the rear end where it's reasonably straight.  I've just 
finished gluing the lower engine support & compression brace together at the 
correct angle.  They will go on the jig and then I'll make up a steamer with a 
piece of water pipe to steam the lower longerons so that I (hopefully) won't 
have any more problems with them. Once they are in place, I'll add all the 
lower stringers/gussets and then tie the upper and lower assemblies together 
with all the side (vertical) stringers/gussets.  I'll then add the bottom 
plywood skin, free it from the jigs, add the upper engine supports, interior 
bracing, etc. and add the side skins.  I'll keep updating this to let everybody 
know how it all works out.   

  Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS s/n 1118, TD/CorvAir
  65 Franklin Street
  Ansonia, CT  06401-1240
  203-732-0508

  "It ain't over til the fat lady sings."

KR> Glue question

[Allen Wiesner]

A "BIG" i.e. heavy duty soldering iron might do the trick, with no open flame 
to damage the wood.

Al

Brian Kraut  wrote: Now that I think of it I rember 
doing something like this once before.  I
don't remember all the details, but it had something do do with a temporary
bolt holding pieces together while epoxy dried and epoxy seeping into the
threads of the bolt permanently gluing the nut to it.  A disc grinder was
used to try to get the nut off and the heat of grinding on the nut loosened
the epoxy that was also gluing the washer under the nut to the spar.  Still
had to cut the nut completely off the bolt, but it did separate the washer
from the spar with no spar damage.  A heat gun could also be tried first
before breaking out the torch.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Brian Kraut
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 12:16 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: RE: KR> Glue question


Possibly heating the clamp with a torch until it softens the epoxy enough
that you can peel it off?  Assuming that it is a metal clamp.

I would suspect that the epoxy would soften enough to get the clamp off long
before the heat would damage the wood.  Try it on some scrap first.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Nick Brennan
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:38 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> Glue question


Lets just go hypothetical for second (because I'd never do this, of
course)...

Let's say you epoxied a clamp into place by accident.  How would you remove
the clamp from the longeron without damaging either (but if one needs to be
damaged, preferrably the clamp.

Nick Brennen
nickdbren...@comcast.net


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> aluminum

[Allen Wiesner]

Aircraft Spruce does have 1/8" (.125") 6061 in T4 & T6, but the MINIMUM bend 
radius is 1 & 1 1/2 times the thickness, recommended radius is 2 & 3 "T", so 
unless you can live with those dimentions or know a GOOD heat-treater who can 
anneal it and then bring it back to T6? after you bend it

Keith and Martha Crawford  wrote: Hi all

I hate to revisit this topic but here it goes.


I am to that point where I need that 1" x 4" x 1/8" inch 6061, I have  
called wicks, airccraft spruce, and all the local venders and  
nothing. What do I do next?
I thought about bending my own but wick doesn't have a .125 6061  
sheet "and thats the sheets!"

Any suggestions?


Keith and Martha Crawford
mar...@simerson.net
http://martha.simerson.net


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> I-COM A200 PTT sw

[Allen Wiesner]

Or you can do it the way the Navy does, using the "trigger" switch which is a 
two position momentary rocker switch.  Center is "OFF", "UP" is radio, and 
"DOWN" is intercom.

Kevin Jarvis  wrote: The separate switch would not be an 
issue with a two position switch. 

The airplane that I fly has the momentary PTT for ATC.  Move it the 
other direction for a "on" position ( it stays there) for the intercom.  
In between is off.  The switch is mounted in the yoke and is not that 
large, actually round I think.  This method turns off the intercom when 
the pilot broadcasts to ATC, however the second pilot can still hear the 
conversation through sidetone.  When the pilot broadcasting to ATC is 
through, he can switch the PTT back to "on" and talk back and forth to 
the other pilot.  The system uses two audio panels, but I'm sure that 
the I-COM could be wired to work in a similar manner.  The separate 
switch for the intercom keeps ATC from hearing the other person if 
he/she were talking when the pilot was talking to ATC.

>
>Don't count on using the intercom.  It is a real goofy arrangement that
>needs a separate PTT switch for the intercom.  What they were thinking when
>they put in the "feature" is beyond me.  
>
[snip]

Kevin Jarvis
N5601T

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: Plans and Gear

[Allen Wiesner]

Three sheets for the fuselage (inc'l firewall pattern) and three sheetsfor the 
wing. that's all folks.


Kenhenderson  wrote: Netters,
I am pursuing a deal on a set of KR-2S supplemental plans and a Diehl Gear. 
Can someone tell me how many pages of drawings, etc. are included in the KR-2S 
supplements so I can be sure I am getting the full set? Also, does anyone have 
a parts list or description for the Diehl Landing Gear that they could possibly 
scan and e-mail me off line so I can be sure it is complete also? Thanks, Ken
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> pink slipped

[Allen Wiesner]

It's not a week, it's the day after mud season ends and the day before the 
first heat wave of summer. 

Randy Smith  wrote: What week is spring in NH?
--- airgu...@comcast.net wrote:

> N7970K passed FAA inspection wednesday and got its
> pink slip. Now for some clean up items and a trip to
> the airport to await spring.  Got the YEE in YEEHAA.
> 
> --
> Paul 
> KR2 Stretched 
> Derry, NH
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 





Get your own web address.  
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sheer Web Reinforcement

[Allen Wiesner]

I am finally (cheers) working on my boat and I am wondering about the stringer 
at H*.  Is it necessary to make it from 2 pieces of 5/8" square, glued 
together; or can I use 1 piece of wood 5/8" x 1 1/4", since I've got it?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Sheer Web Reinforcement

[Allen Wiesner]

>>Is it necessary to make it from 2 pieces of 5/8" square, glued together; or 
>>can I use 1 piece of >>wood 5/8" x 1 1/4", since I've got it?

>If I am reading this correct, you put the second stringer in
>after putting the sides together. The lamination keeps the bend 
>from trying to straighten out.

Sorry for the mix-up.  I'm referring to the shoulder harness beef-up, not the 
auxiliary top longeron.  The revision? in my book recommends using a 1/4" ply 
sheer panel for the shoulder harness attachment and to add a second 5/8" x 
5/8".  I had thought that this was to the lateral stringer (cross member) at 
the upper station "H".  After reading Virgil's comment and re-reading the 
paragraph I see that it is supposed to be a 4" long addition to the longeron.  
My new question is: is this necessary, since the auxiliary longeron extends 
past "I" to "J"?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR>Props

[Allen Wiesner]

I remember a photo of a plane (bi-plane w/ radial?) from the '30's with a 
single blade prop.; and the Heller "Verti-Jet" helicopter from the late '40's 
or early '50's has a single blade tail rotor.  It has small pulse jets on the 
tips of the main rotor blades, so the tail rotor is for directional control 
only, no anti-torque required.
It's located at KBDR at the Stratford School of Aviation Maintenance and they 
are trying to get it to fly again.  

It is my understanding that a single blade prop. is the most efficient in 
converting HP/Tq. to thrust, i.e. moving air.  However, the RPM, tip diameter, 
and tip speed limitations rapidly come into play; a two-bladed prop. of @ 60" 
is roughly equal to a single blade prop. of @ 110".  Designers hang on more 
and/or thicker blades to adsorb more power for a given diameter/RPM.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net  

Re; KR>Engine Mount

[Allen Wiesner]

>Just a couple of questions regarding the engine mount
>for a Corvair in a KR2S.
>1. The plans in WW's book seem to be misleading.  The
>dimensions for the motor mount bolts are not clearly
>explained or I read them wrong.  The book says 10.125
>for the fore to aft distance from center bolt hole to
>center.  However, the center bolt hole distance on the
>left to right bolts is given as 10.25.  But, the
>impression given on the plans is that the sides of the
>tray are 10.25, not the center of the mounting bolts. 
>So is that correct?  Is it 10.250 from center bolt to
>center bolt or is that the inside dimension of the
>tray?  Take a quick look at the plans and let me know.
>I finished my tray today and I went 10.25 from center
>bolt to center bolt.  I hope I don't have to make
>another one.

I just checked my block:

Fore to Aft, center of hole to center of hole:  10.125"

Left to Right, center of hole to center of hole:  10.250"

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR>Composite Instructions (was Wanting Plans)

[Allen Wiesner]

>Also, it is obvious (to me anyhow) that the real reason more KR's are not 
>finished is the fibreglass or composite side of construction. There are 
>lot's of boats out there that never get any farther because a lot of people 
>(builders) get stuck on how to proceed because there is no one tried and 
>proven way to proceed with the composite side of construction, and having no 
>"set of instructions", they fall by the wayside. Well, as I said, that's 
>just my observation. Some people are just not as talented in some areas as 
>other's are but we all have special talents in some area.

Anyone who doesn't know much about composite work can (SHOULD!, I'm glad I 
did)) take the EAA weekend class on composite construction and/or visit the 
composite workshop at Oshkosh.  My prior F/G experience was one week of 
"gophering" and squeegeeing parts in vacuum bagged molds at Sikorsky's F/G shop 
(in '64).

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118 (retired BIG Helo Avionics Tech.Rep.)
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> HELP - Chamfering/Edging Tool

[Allen Wiesner]

I seem to remember mention of a chamfering/edging/beveling tool to use on 
stringers to keep sandpaper, skin, et.al. from digging in and/or lifting a 
splinter: but I can't find anything in the Archives.  Can anyone help?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Solid wings

[Allen Wiesner]

Well, how about L/R wing panels joined at the centerline and with the 
dihedral built into the joint?
In any case, Lynn Hyder's KR-1 1/2 has a solid one-piece wing; see: 
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/lhyder/

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Landing KR's

[Allen Wiesner]

It's not impossible, I did it while learning to do wheel landings in my 
C-170B at Manassas, VA in the 70's.  Cost me a trip to Sensenich in PA and 
1/2" from the tips.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> VSI

[Allen Wiesner]

>So, would it be best to adjust while sitting still on the ground with the
>engine running? At least you would get the vibration which might help the
>sticky needle.

Another possibility, and the one that I used to use on the helos, is to tap 
the edge of the VSI (gently) with the handle of a screwdriver while 
adjusting it with another.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>Wt & Balance

[Allen Wiesner]

>The spinner is used because all your numbers are positive, since most people
>have a hard time with negative numbers ( long time from algebra in school I
>guess). Piper does the same thing. Cessna uses the firewall. The nice thing
>about the firewall as the Datum line is that in most cases it will not move
>or change.

An easy fix which will give all positive numbers is to put the "Zero" point 
well in front of the aircraft so that an easily remembered # (say 50" or 100") 
is used for the firewall (or any other fixed point).  This means that the 
location for engine oil, prop., etc. will still be a positive # which can be 
figured by simple subtraction.  Example:  Prop. is 35" forward of the firewall, 
which is considered to be 100"; therefore, the moment for the prop. is 65".  

I can't claim this as an original idea since most Sikorsky Helicopters are 
figured that way.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> jackng a KR

[Allen Wiesner]

>I've seen incarnations of this whereby a piece of steel is 
>welded up at the proper angle with something sticking
>down for the jack to catch, is clamped in position the same way, and then
>jacked up.

I had something like that for my C-170B back in the 70's; I think I got it from 
Univair.  It was a simple "C" shape which slipped around the gear leg and it 
had a small "L" shaped piece welded to the bottom and cut at an angle, point 
down, to engage the depression in the top of the bottle jack.  I had glued an 
old piece of inner tube to the inside to protect the paint.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Plans & Manual

[Allen Wiesner]

>My question is in regards to the plans and manual for the KR-2S. What's 
>included from Rand >Robinson when I order them? The size of the plans? How 
>many sheets? I know they are older but >the general quality of the plans?

>Is there a manual of any sorts that comes along with the package? If so is 
>it helpful?

Brad:

To complete Mark's answer;, there are a total of six drawings for the 
MODIFICATIONS for the 2S:
3 ea. 30" x 42" for the fuselage and firewall & 3 ea. 24" x 36"  for the 
spar, wing, and RAF48 airfoil.
Again, these are additions to the standard KR-2 drawings and manual which 
you will also need.  There is NO separate manual for the KR-2S.  If you want 
the new airfoil, get the info./dwg. from the KR Net.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Re: CorvAircraft> near miss?

[Allen Wiesner]

>  I saw one at Sebring (LSA Expo) earlier this year that was optical. It
> scanned the sky looking for things with little or no relative motion but
> growing in size.

Another problem is that it only is looking ahead (OK, to 60 degrees each 
side) and if it is mounted on the glare shield it can only "see" level or 
descending traffic.  Don't forget, in the crash that created the FAA, one 
A/C was level, the other was in a climb, and they collided without ever 
seeing one another.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Weather

[Allen Wiesner]

>While at Oshkosh the KR pilots best friend is a non-super sticky tape. 
>Sorry about you paint
>Mark J.  and Richard S.

Use black electrical tape.  Get the good stuff, 3M 33+ at Home Depot, it's 
flexible, can do 3D curves, will not harden, and will come off without 
taking any paint OR leaving a black gummy residue, unlike the cheap stuff in 
the auto stores / supermarkets (don't ask me how I know).

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Kr2s building advice

[Allen Wiesner]

Randy:

I believe that the book that you are looking for is the FAA's AC 43.13B 
"Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection, Repair 
& Alterations" ; also called CAM 18.
It is available from the FAA, the EAA, Aircraft Spruce, & Wicks.  I would 
also recommend that you get all four of Tony Bingelis's books, also 
available from the last three above.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

Re: Réf. : Re: KR> fuel tank(s)

[Allen Wiesner]

>And it definitely was beaucoup, beaucoup $$$, especially once I had put my
>markup on it !!

Sorry Serge:

Growing up in Maine, I learned a reasonable amount of correct French, but 
working with the Army (and Marines) during and after 'Nam has thoroughly 
corrupted  my vocabulary ;-)

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Expected Lifespan of Construction Materials

[Allen Wiesner]

Believe it or not, the ENTIRE outer shell of the nose/cockpit of the CH-53 
series helicopter is one hughmungus piece of composite; and some D's built 
in the 60's are still going strong!

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>Latex Paint

[Allen Wiesner]

I know an award wining LARGE-SCALE modeler named Roy Vaillancourt who uses 
latex paints on his models.  He uses Benjamin Moore paints, both "Semigloss" 
and "High Gloss" versions and then uses automotive waxes or furniture polish 
for more shine.  He has two tricks: 1.) He uses windshield washer fluid as the 
thinner, and 2.) a product called "FLOE-TROLL" at no more than 8 oz. to a 
gallon of paint.  He puts on three coats; first coat is "barely enough to see 
coverage", let dry, second coat is "just a bit wetter", let dry again, and then 
a third coat.  He does spray the latex on but tests it first to arrive at the 
proper mix of paint and thinner, "dry looking", add more thinner, "runny", too 
much thinner.  He does tend to use a hair dryer to speed up the drying time 
between coats which probably isn't practical on large surfaces.  He sun-dries 
the final painted surfaces for a day or two to help finish drying.  

As for UV protection, isn't that supposed to be in the filler/primer?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Questions on Stabilizer/Elevator Construction

[Allen Wiesner]

I have just been making my own drawing on the Stab./El. assy. (consolidating 
everything on one piece of (virtual) paper helps to get it all straight in my 
head) and I've noted two things. 

1.  The 1/4" plywood doublers are shown cut off square.  I have always thought 
that it was good practice to taper the ends.  Has anyone bothered to taper them?

2.  The trim tab sides are shown as cut perpendicular to the spar.  Wouldn't it 
be more practical to have them cut perpendicular to the trim tab hinge line and 
the trailing edge of the elevator?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> transponder connectors

[Allen Wiesner]

Also try:

Digikey http://www.digikey.com/ 

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> scrounging for parts

[Allen Wiesner]

>Cannot recollect any drawings for WAF's in the plans, someone told me
>there was also a section on sanding the lower longeron flush to fit the 
>floor

Chris:

The drawings for the WAF's are on page 23 (FWD) and 24 (AFT) of the builders 
manual, and the bit on the lower longerons is on page 14.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Spar wood

[Allen Wiesner]

>What is so the 18% Airfoil?

Don

That is one version of the new low-drag wing, see 
http://www.krnet.org/as504x/
There are two versions, one is commonly called the 16% airfoil and is for 
people who already have their spars built; and the other (the 18%) is for 
new construction.  It's advantage is a taller spar which is somewhat 
stronger and also gives more fuel tank room.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> spars

[Allen Wiesner]

>How is everyone covering there outer spars? Both sides or how they
>show you to do it in the Kr manual? I seen on some peoples sites they do 
>both
>sides. For strength?

David:

Per KR-2S Spar Details drawing W1:

"NOTE:  Both Fore and Aft Outboard Spars
   have 2.5mm Ply on both faces and
   full length of spars."

This is a revision to the KR-2 manual which has only one side of each outer 
spar covered full length.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Spar wood

[Allen Wiesner]

>I don't remember any discussions about
>using the 18% in any configuration other than as a root airfoil tapering
>to a 15% at the tip.

Steve:

Please correct me if I'm wrong but it is my understanding that the center 
section stub wings are a constant cord of 18% thickness and the outer wing 
panels are what taper from 18% at the root to 15% at the tip.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>N886MJ FOR SALE

[Allen Wiesner]

Done! Here's my 50K.

K
K

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR>Carburetor????

[Allen Wiesner]

>Trying to find out what size engine this carburetor came off of. It is a
>MA3PA P/N 10-2948 and if it would be ok for a corvair. Does anybody know?

The Facet/MS Cross Reference that I have does not list the 10-2948.  Most 
MS-3PA's seem to be on Lyco. O-235's.  There is a listing for the MS-3SPA, p/n 
10-2848, which is for the C-125.  WW recommends the MS-3SPA, p/n 10-4894, as 
used on the O-200 for the 'vair.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR>WATER IN FUEL

[Allen Wiesner]

Back in the 70's, I found water 4 or 5 times in the fuel samples taken from the 
wing tanks of my C-170B based at Manassas, VA.  The amount was from a few drops 
to a couple of ounces.  Each time I would rock the wings back and forth and 
re-check; and I did get more water on two occasions.  Interestingly, there was 
no water in the gascolater on any of these occasions, but there was a couple of 
ounces of water in it on the next check after one of the occasions when I had a 
couple of ounces in the wings.  I assume that it had been from the time before. 
 I always made it a practice to fill up after flying, since it could be up to a 
month between flights.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Sun Induced Temperature Differences Due to Color

[Allen Wiesner]

>Actually they have tested it with car paint and It does not make a real big
>difference in temps... between the different colors.   but I would still
>stay with white...

Assuming an ambient temperature of 90 degrees F, the interior of a fuselage 
painted white will reach 140 degrees F in sunlight, and the same fuselage 
painted dark olive green ("Presidential Green") will approach 200 degrees F.  I 
believe black will go over 210!  My copy of the KR-2 manual has a chart with 
similar numbers (drawing 90, page 116, January 1990 edition).  My numbers are 
from the original testing to fit air conditioning into the VH-3A helicopters in 
the early 1960's; they started out all green and after the testing went to the 
"White Tops" (and this was before we ended up in Texas!)

Allen G. Wiesner
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT 06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Brake fluid reservoir - 1/8"NPT couplings

[Allen Wiesner]

Serge:

I'd be glad to help.  I assume that you need the AN840-4D "Hose Nipple". 
1/8" NPT to 1/4" hose in aluminum; the hose end is beaded, not barbed, 
though (also available in brass).  If you do need a barbed fitting, they are 
available in nylon; and AS has an item in 3/8" hose, material not 
specified ( see 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/weatherheadhoseends.php ).

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Re:Brake fluidid reservoir - 1/8"NPT couplings

[Allen Wiesner]

Serge:

OK, I believe that the part you want is AN840-4 (see

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=970/index.html )

If you'll confirm, I'll try to get them locally this morning, if not 
available locally, I'll order from Wicks in the afternoon. Can you give me 
your Email address (so that we don't clutter up the KR net :-) ) and a 
shipping address.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Brake fluid reservoir - 1/8"NPT couplings

[Allen Wiesner]

Serge:

Woops, cancel my earlier reply, I missed the "male NPT" part.  I'll see what 
I can find locally(automotive) or the AN840 can still be used, you will just 
need AN910 couplings (unless the stackup is too long), or you want 45 or 90 
degree fittings.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Brake fluid reservoir - 1/8"NPT couplings

[Allen Wiesner]

Serge:

I think I've found what you want, go to http://www.mcmaster.com/  

click on: Pipe and Pipe Fittings
then:Brass Pipe Fittings and Pipe
then:Pipe to Hose Adapters
then:Barbed Fittings
then:1/4' Hose Inner Diameter
then:Female Pipe x Hose Adapter
then:1/8"
then click on the P/N:91465K311  to see the item description.

If that is what you do need, let me know and I'll order them.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net   

KR> Serge's ignition

[Allen Wiesner]

>Now to find a triple pole toggle switch if there is such a thing.

They exist, but are very rare.  Use a standard four pole switch with one set 
of contacts unwired.

See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Switches/tl_series.pdf

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> High Flight

[Allen Wiesner]

Bob: 

Try the following link:

http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/history/prewwii/jgm.htm 

A Google search of the name will get you about 80,000 more hits.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

Ref.:RE:KR>Nuts and Bolts

[Allen Wiesner]

>>1 - When a thread size is expressed at, say, 10-32, what do the "10" and 
>>the "32" stand for?

>>2 - The AN system starts at AN3, which is 10-32. What would be the next 
>>smaller size in the standard Imperial system?

>10 refers to the size, probably 10 gauge and 32 refers to threads per inch.
>Question 2 probably 12-32 which would be a machine screw not AN.

I don't know what the numbering system for screws was based on, but as stated, 
#10 is equivalent to 3/16".  The next smaller size is #8 at @ 0.16".  #12 is 
larger, I "think" equivalent to 1/4"

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Re:>electrival update

[Allen Wiesner]

Mark:

>I've been asked to update my pathetic electrical page with a schematic of 
>the "ultimate fuel/ignition redundancy" scheme, so I did.

I assume that the two center contacts of the DPDT switch are jumpered together?

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Main landing gears - Drilling through spring steel

[Allen Wiesner]

Serge:

You can also make up a "ersatz" sleeve with some sheet shim stock.  The best 
would be steel @ 0.009" with no overlap, but three pieces of 0.003 with the 
seams staggered @ 120 degrees should also work.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>AS504x airfoil

[Allen Wiesner]

>Jim  wrote:
>Thank you The computer is brand new however we have been having a few 
>little gliches with it and this maybe one of them weve stumped Dell a couple 
>of times.

>Hey Jim, 

>I had the same problem with the disc that I downloaded. The solution for me 
>was this:

My problem was the opposite,  I was able to read the downloaded disc, but when 
I took it to my local print man (he had made me full sized fuselage drawings) 
he was unable to get it to run on two different plotter/printers.  After he 
lost the disc, I downloaded a second from Mark. L's site and took it to the 
local Kinko's.  It took them a couple of tries to get the settings right, but 
they were able to give me a full-scale print within 30 minutes.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Happy Birthday

[Allen Wiesner]

To all Marines, Semper Fi!

KR>Radio Suggestions

[Allen Wiesner]

Check out Jim Weir's article which appeared in Kitplanes.

http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/Micro760/Micro760.htm

http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/Micro760/KPtext.pdf

As the article mentions, the box is slightly larger than a "standard" 2 1/4" 
instrument hole, and the XMIT Key line voltage has to be below .4V, not the 
"standard" 1.5V (nominal ground, after going thru a couple of diodes in the 
audio switching panel, and wiring and switch contact resistance).

Also, his article in this month's (Dec.) Kitplanes is on the XCOM 760, note 
that there are two prices,
$1200 from a U.S. distributor (i.e. AS) and $1050 direct from the XCOM 
website.

http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/

Also, Barry Kruyssen and/or John Martindale (if either is willing) might be 
able to get either one even cheaper, but then there would be extra for shipping.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> glue joints

[Allen Wiesner]

I use small, 3 oz. plastic cups available in the supermarket (Stop & Shop). 
I place one on the scale and pour (squeeze) equal amounts by weight in grams 
of resin and hardener into it.  I then mix it up using "skinny craft sticks" 
from a local craft store (hardwood, 6" x 1/4" x 1/16").  I repeatedly scrape 
the sides of the cup and swirl the mixture until it is a uniform 
consistency.  This has to be done gently, or a lot of small air bubbles will 
be trapped in the mix.

I apply the glue to both surfaces, clamp, and scrape off the excess glue 
squeeze-out.

I generally do not sand the wood surface, preferring to leave it as it comes 
from the saw.  When I do have to sand for fitting purposes, I use a coarse 
sandpaper (or sanding stick) and blow air on the surface to remove as much 
sanding dust as possible.  CAUTION  If using an air compressor, make sure 
that there is no oil or water vapor mixed with the air.

I will generally make 1 or 2 test glue joints from scrap spruce/ply and will 
leave the mixing/spreading stick in the leftover glue in the cup.  The next 
day I will see if it has hardened and if it can be popped out of the cup as 
one solid chunk.  I will test the wood strips by breaking them apart, and 
want to see the wood break, NOT the glue.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> glue joints

[Allen Wiesner]

>I also weigh out T-88, but not 1:1 ratio like you would mixing by volume.
>Since I haven't mixed it for a while, I don't remember the exact ratio, but
>I think you use slightly less hardener.

Your right, I had an attack of CRS this morning.

The correct ratio (which I have on the bottles in large magic marker) is 13 
(resin) to 11 (hardener).
As I said, I measure in grams and multiply (or divide) as req.  Sorry for 
the error.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Control cables

[Allen Wiesner]

>What diameter cable should I use for rudder controls. I cant find this info 
>on any of the plans or the >manual

Per the parts list in an old Wicks Catalog, the control cable is 3/32" x 7 x 
19 cable.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>Work Bench

[Allen Wiesner]

Mine is 14'.  Two layers of 5/8", first layer has the seam in the middle (2 x 
7'), top has one 8' piece centered with two 3' panels on the ends.  On top of 
that, I have the white coated 1/8"? tempered hard board, seam again in  the 
middle.  It all sits on a 10' x 4' x 36" frame which is on casters.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2S3/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Parts Car/110 Engine on eBay, cheap - TN, Al, GA, MS, area

[Allen Wiesner]

There is a 66 Corvair parts car for sale on eBay, item # is 7996438288.  
Location is Taft, TN and the current price is $25.00.  Anyone that needs an 
engine could pull it and haul the rest to a junkyard.  Attn. Mark L. - 30 miles 
north of Huntsville.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> temp checker

[Allen Wiesner]

The hell with teenagers.  I was on a Navy project prototyping a FLIR 
(Forward Looking Infra -Red) turret into the nose of a H-53 as part of a 
night vision/flight effort just after the Iran hostage F-up.  To get from 
the front offices to the cafeteria at NADC everybody had to walk by the 
prototyping hanger area and we used it to spot all the secretaries who 
weren't wearing bras! (two hot spots) :-)

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> 56ML Incidence - Shifting Weight for CG Purposes

[Allen Wiesner]

I'm suffering from CRS and can't be sure if it was the Cozy, but one of the 
canard types had a couple of instances of a ?flat? stall that was 
unrecoverable and to research the problem they had a chunk of weight on a 
worm gear run by a motor to create a in-flight variable CG.  I think it was 
written up in Sport Aviation.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Re: Rum Cake for Foam

[Allen Wiesner]

But if some mice get into the Rum Cake, they'll be too drunk to hold hands and 
there goes all the strength of the sandwich! :-(  On the other hand, if you 
crash in the boonies, you have some emergency rations. :-) 

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Intake Manifold

[Allen Wiesner]

I have another idea for attaching an intake manifold to the head.  I am only 
half done so far so I can't say how well it will work.  No photos yet either.  
I have removed the outer carb. stud flange by making a horizontal cut just 
inboard of the head manifold.  I am in the process of shaving the rest of the 
carb. flange to about 1/16" above the top of the manifold and have already 
removed the other stud ear from the outside of the manifold.  I plan to re-weld 
the carb. stud flange to the outside of the manifold by using a jig/pattern so 
thatit is in the same position that it had before, just lower.  I will then 
finish shaving the top of the manifold, including the top of the re-welded lug, 
to get a smooth mounting surface.

As I see it, this will allow me to use the standard carb. gasket, use one of 
Pat Panzera's flanges welded to a 90 degree tube, hold it on with a couple of 
cap screws, and have a reasonably low profile..

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Re: Auto Fuel/Avgas

[Allen Wiesner]

IIRC there "used" to be an lead? additive that could be added to gas for 
engines that were designed to run on leaded fuel; does it still exist? and if 
so, what is the name/maker?

KR> airports/SAA Fly-in

[Allen Wiesner]

>The SAA fly in is coming up in June, doe's anyone know the exact dates for 
> >it.Thanks...

June 10/12.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

Re: Réf. : Re: KR> airspeed calibration

[Allen Wiesner]

>And is there any known way to prevent water ingress / moisture ingress
>into the pitot and static lines?

No, short of plumbing flow-thru desiccant cartridges into the pitot/static 
lines.

Military A/C generally have "T" fittings at all the low points with the base 
of the "T" pointing down and capped off.  The caps are painted yellow.  That 
serves a mini trap and reservoir to collect water and/or debris and should 
be checked at least every 100 hour/annual.  I actually found a (dead) 
housefly in perfect shape in a pitot trap once,  I assume it crawled into 
the tube in the hanger.  Some helos, H-3's for one, (and I suppose some 
starched wing A/C) that spend a lot of time over water add a 1" stub of 
tubing to increase the size of the reservoir.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Do not archive Xpndr cable

[Allen Wiesner]

>I don't like the solid center conductor cable for any applications subject
>to vibration.  The wire tends to crack right where the center pin is
>soldered on after a while.  It sounds like it would be a very remote
>possibility, but I have seen it more times than I can count in marine
>applications.

I will agree that the stranded RG-58 should be used where flexing and/or 
vibrations are to be expected, i.e. helicopters and boats, c.f. your comment 
on marine use, but for a plane where it gets installed and checked once in 5 
years?!

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Do not archive Xpndr cable

[Allen Wiesner]

>>What is the type of cable to use between the Xpnder and the Xpnder 
>>antenna?

>RG-400 is what is used on most certified planes.  RG-58 is cheaper and will
>work just as well in the short runs you will have on a KR.  If you use 58 I
>recommend a good quality like a Belden cable, not the 75% shielded junk you
>get at Radio Shack.

If possible, get the RG-58 with a solid center conductor, it's easier to 
work with and has less signal loss.  Most local Radio Shack stores (not the 
mall ones) still have the good stuff, generally it's stored on a big reel 
(500 feet) in the back.  Ask them to cut what you need from it.  Stay away 
from the 5, 10, or 25 foot pre-packaged stuff.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> wing gap seals/covers

[Allen Wiesner]

>OK, I've already heard all the ways to fill the stub-to-outer wing gap, but 
>it >wouldn't hurt to hear 'em all again.  I've just stuck the wings on and 
>I recall that I >need to fill that 1" gap that I need to do something 
>about...

There are aluminum tapes and stainless steel tapes available, main problem 
would be to get a flat, wrinkle-free surface.

Also, don't laugh; but how about trying "MonoKote" or "Coverite", the model 
aircraft iron-on films.  Very smooth, very thin, shrinks flat, easy to 
remove/repair, many colors, and it can be painted over.  I've seen it used 
on R/C racers and jets that hit 200+ .

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> fire control in the engine comparetment.

[Allen Wiesner]

The military (and I assume commercial jets) have had Infrared flame 
detectors since the 60's.  Main problem is that they run on 28 VDC.  (see 
http://www2.kiddeaerospace.com/product.htm  )
There are small IR detector IC's available for under $5.00, but you would 
have to build a power circuit since most run on 1.5 to 5 VDC.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> fire control in the engine comparetment.

[Allen Wiesner]

>If I recall correctly the Huey had a engine compartment fire warning system
>that was simply a wire that would ground if the insulation was melted off
>of it then activate a light in the cockpit. Simple and reliable.

The Huey (and SH-3/S-61, among others) fire element was a thin aluminum (@ 
1/16") tube with a wire in the center which was held away from the inside 
wall of the tube by some kind of low melting point salt crystal.  When the 
salt melted at high temp. (or when some Marine stepped on it with his size 
16 boondockers) the two wires would ground out and you would get a light in 
the cockpit.  Unfortunately, the controller ran on 26 volts AC.

>When I returned home I got my Kit Plane magazine out of the mail there was 
>an article on that same >airplane.

Are you sure it was Kitplane?  I've just run a page-flip search from Oct. 04 
to present (June 05) with no hits.  The fire bottle plumbed to the engine 
area sounds like a very good idea though.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> fire control in the engine comparetment.

[Allen Wiesner]

Ha, found the mention of the Flowers airplane.  See page 42 of the October 
2004 Sport Aviation, "Junkyard Dog".  No mention of the firebottle though.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Source for Hardware

[Allen Wiesner]

Can anyone point me to a source for AN & MS hardware besides Aircraft Spruce 
and Wicks?  What I'm really hoping for is the equivalent of a Mouser or Digikey.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.neta

KR> rivnut question

[Allen Wiesner]

Another possibility for the notch.  Mark where you want the bigger hole for 
the Rivnut, then centerpunch for a second hole on the radius, (example, for 
a 3/16" Rivnut, the hole may be 1/4", so first mark and drill the hole for 
the notch [1/16" will probably do}1/8" out from the center, then drill the 
bigger hole and install the Rivnut.

Another possibility on the tool is your local autobody repair shop, although 
they may not have the smaller sizes of pullers.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> g rating, helo loops

[Allen Wiesner]

Doing it in helos is old hat.  At Sikorsky (before my time) they took an 
S-52, (now being sold by a FL firm as the "Hummingbird" as a kit) put a 
small turbine in it, called it the S-59 and at one point did 17 (or was it 
19) consecutive loops in it.  I've seen an 8mm movie one of the mechs. made, 
it's boring; all you see is a dot going round n' round.  And then in the 
middle 60's there was a marine Major ?Goulleigh? that we called the "Mad 
Major".  With company approval, (and after a computer simulation) he 
proceeded to loop AND roll a CH-53A Sea Stallion.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> O-200 instrument markings

[Allen Wiesner]

For the 1973 C-150L manual that I have, the markings for the O-200-A are:

Oil Pressure:
Minimum Idling10 psi (red line)
Normal Operating Range  30 - 60 psi (green arc)
Maximum100 psi (red line)

Oil Temperature Gage:
Normal Operating Range  Green Arc (that's all it says, 
honest)
Maximum Allowable 240 degrees F (red line)

Fuel Quantity Indicators:
Empty   E  (red line)

Tachometer:
Normal Operating Range:
At sea level2000 - 2550 RPM (inner 
green arc)
At 5000 feet  2000 - 2650 RPM (middle 
green arc)
At 10,000 feet   2000 - 2750 RPM (outer 
green arc)
Maximum Allowable  2750 RPM (red line)

Suction Gage (Gyro System):
Normal Operating Range4.6 - 5.4 in. Hg (green arc)

There are also several airspeed markings, but I assume that those would not 
apply for your usage.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>Re: K R Dinner

[Allen Wiesner]

I'm not going to be able to make it to SNF this year, so somebody else will 
have to provide the can opener

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR>Dog?

[Allen Wiesner]

>But I was thinking a little closer to China...

Viet-Nam would be better, they just love dogs there, especially with spiced 
rice :-)

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Crossmember at station "d" Spelling corrected.

[Allen Wiesner]

>I am building a KR2S. As you know, you receive KR2 plans, and KR2S 
> >supplements, when you order KR2S plans. The KR2 plans call for a 
>crossmember >at.station "D", (bottom of fuselage). The KR2S drawing "A", 
>does not show a >crossmember here.  Is there supposed to be one there?  I 
>don't see how the "floor" >would have much support without one.


You're right, that's one I missed.  The 2S plan does add crossmembers at 
stations "E" & "H", so maybe it just got skipped, or they assumed it would 
be carried over from the -2 plans.  The crossmember at "A!" on the -2 
(rudder pedal support) is also missing but is implied by the dash on the 
side view.  I'll be putting one in at "D" on mine when I get to that point, 
unless somebody gives a good reason why not.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> KR1

[Allen Wiesner]

>Could anyone give the recamended size of the piano ailron 
>piano hing?  ACS thr largest they carry is 2" thats only an 1" 
>on the wing and 1" on thw aliron shouldn't about two " on
>each side ?

Per the RR parts listing (in an old Wicks catalog) the P/N is MS20001-P5.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> wing bolts

[Allen Wiesner]

>Does anybody know the size and lengths of the wing bolts?  I have standard 
>WAF's. >I have to make an order for A/S and the plane is at the airport 
>now.

All of the forward spar WAF to WAF bolts (8) are AN6-5A.
All of the aft spar WAF to WAF bolts (8) are AN3-5A.
The forward center section spar WAF's use AN3-30A bolts (32).
The aft center section spar WAF's use AN3-21A (20).
The forward outer spar WAF's use AN3-27A (32).
The aft outer spar WAF's use AN3-16A (20).

All of the above are calculated, assuming 3/32" ply, and are for the 
dimensions for the KR-2S spars; KR-2's have one less ply face on the outer 
rear spars.  Also, any control brackets attached to WAF's/bolts will need an 
allowance for the thickness of the brackets.  Each 1/8" (.125") will need an 
increase of +1 to the dash number for that bolt, i.e.: standard aileron 
pulley brackets will need -31's and -22"s.  All of these are assuming 
washers under the heads and nuts.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net 

KR> Re: so glad to be back

[Allen Wiesner]

>Look it up in the Bible it say's so. The three wise men came from ah fire 
>to
>see the baby Jesus.

Under Spider's classification, that barely rates a 1  :-)

Flashy

KR> bolt shear strength / Axle size

[Allen Wiesner]

For an AN3 bolt in single shear mode, steel is 2,125 lbs.; aluminum is 990
lbs.

A AN4 bolt used as a tailwheel axle has a shear strength of 3,680 lbs.
Hmmm, assuming a 36 pound load on the tail that's a 100g landing.   :-)

Reference:  the table on page 84 of the 2004 Wicks catalog.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> AN nuts and bolts - Wrench sizes

[Allen Wiesner]

>Could somebody tell me what wrench sizes are used on AN3, AN4, AN5, >AN6
and AN7 bolts respectively? For some reason, that info is nowhere to >be
found on the Internet.

AN3 is 3/8", AN4 = 7/16", AN5 = 1/2", AN6 = 9/16", and AN7 = 5/8".

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> AN nuts and bolts - Wrench sizes

[Allen Wiesner]

>A few errors thereAN4 is 1/4, not 7/16.
>I'm sure it was an oversight.

>Here's what Wick catalog says for the bolts in question:

>AN3 is 3/16, AN4 is 1/4, AN5 is 5/16, AN6 is 3/8, AN7 is 7/16, and AN8
>is 1/2.

>That's out of the catalog.
>Paul

You are right for the bolt shank diameter, but Serge asked for the wrench
size, i.e. the distance across the head flats.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Mylar Gap Seals

[Allen Wiesner]

Count me in for at least 1 and possibly 2 sets.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> (no subject)

[Allen Wiesner]