KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 114
Orma wrote: > The type of nut that should be used would be a self locking nut and > the process of welding it would destroy the properties of the locking > feature. There are various types of clip nuts that could be used that > would stay in place and allow you to remove the bolts. Nylock PEM nuts should work. Have to get someone with a pin press to shove 'em in there, or possibly an arbor press with the right anvil would work. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 114
Serge VIDAL wrote: > According to Tony Bingelis, that's just another aviation legend. He > says they are good for 30 uses or so Depends on what the locking element is. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> LED lights
Orma wrote: > > My question is > what is the normal usage for this light. Is it stop lamp, turn or > backup. 1156/1157s are brake lights. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> LED lights
Doug Rupert wrote: >> Orma; I think I read somewhere that LED bulbs are rated at 10,000 >> hrs but don't quote me on it. They are now available at auto parts >> places as the kids today are using them on their flashy new cars. >> Available in a wide range of colors including red white and green. >> The candlepower output is close if not the same as the 1156 but have >> no filament to break due to vibration and they develop less heat. >> That is the way I'm going as their long life allows that they be >> semi-permanently mounted behind a clear panel on the wingtip for >> less drag. They also now sell 12 volt variable rate strobes at these >> same places and I have purchased three for the grand total of $85 >> Cdn which is roughly 70 American Some of the more expensive 1156/1157 replacement LED clusters have a ring of LEDs pointing out radially as well as the usual cluster aimed straight ahead. Costs more, but gives 180 degrees of light. Replacing normal bulbs with LEDs might seem pointless, but if you replace enough of them you can wind up saving a noticable amount of power and they basically never go out. Supposedly there's even a company working on a headlight replacement using a bunch of Luxor Stars (I think that's the company). I've played with one of those particular LEDs before and it's "holy " bright. Burn your retinas bright. Don't look directly at the blast bright. Very impressive. I'll be using nothing but LEDs for panel and interior lighting personally and, if I can find approved parts, replacing all the standard bulbs with them in whatever production plane we wind up with. Might even 337 them. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Fit two people
Ronald Metcalf wrote: > > You will find that most established KR builders become highly > suspicious of anyone asking questiuons that suggest that they have > not purchased plans yet. Kind of makes it tough to decide what to build, doesn't it? -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Hangers
Rick Human wrote: > I'm sharing a T hangar with a VP2 - They both fit with out a lot of > trouble - there are about 3 different configruations that have worked > for us - Were on a private grass strip @ 25 mi west of Houston and we > pay $198/mo. for a two year old hangar - on a cement slab with > electricity (as part of the rent). Which airport? We're going to CXO and possibly DWH Saturday to look for a place to keep (hopefully) a Citabria. We're definately leaning towards CXO right now, so if anyone wants to split a hangar we might be able to work something out. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Wood
Glynnis Young wrote: > What other options are there? > Honduran Mahogany...34lbs/cu.ft > > > > Thank you for opening this avenue - I have access to a variety of > woods that I would never even have considered, eg. African Teak, > Mahogany, Rosewood and Kiaat. Where can I find more info on testing > and suitability? Are you prepared to discuss this off-net? Also remember that some kinds of wood are unsuitable because of the oil in them making it hard to get a good bond. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Kr Costs...
Stephen Jacobs wrote: > > After much frustration I learnt that it would not function over > certain speeds - not sure now, but I think it stopped registering > after 70mph. I've tested my eMap up to 140 MPH... umm... in an airplane. Yeah, that's it. I'll stick with that story ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> project update suggestions/questions
Scott Cable wrote: > > 3.) The air filter looks like it needs something to support it in the > center. Especially since you added a diffuser plate to the center of > the filter. From the way it is supported only along the top and > bottom, it concerns me that the combination of ram air and engine > vacuum could cause the filter to collapse, then get sucked down to > the carb and block off the airflow to the carb during flightNot a > good thing. My suggestion is to add vertical "vanes" to the angles > that support the filter, or add an angle to the ram air diffuser > plate that is the same height as the filter... or some other method > that would prevent the filter from collapsing. I agree. I've watched a "puny" little 3/4 liter inline 4 fold a K&N in half at full throttle. We fixed that problem with safety wire crossed over the carb side of the filter laced through the sides of the airbox and twisted tight. It was in a superbike airbox so we didn't have much room to work. > 4.) Please re-think the emergency air-valve. Adding it would serve > two functions: > a.) emergency air source if both valves are shut. > b.) Act as an additional source of cowling air if the heated air from > the muff is inadequate for conditions. Don't use a magnet, but > rather a very light helical, torsion spring to keep the valve closed > until it was necessary. If you hinge the emergency air flapper around > the existing ram air valve pivot, you could add an additional hole to > front of the airbox, and at least the emergency air source would be > filtered. How about a door controlled by a vacuum servo? If there's too much vacuum in the airbox for whatever reason the emergency air will open automatically. I'd put the intake for that air source somewhere hot just in case. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Court decision
rhartwi...@juno.com wrote: > I hope this sort of mentality in the insurance industry doesn't carry > over into other types of insurance. Such as: I buy a car--put a > performance chip in it--have a speeding related accident and find > that I am not covered.orinstall nonstandard shocks, etc. Insurance companies, ALL of them, will try to find any possible way out of giving you a single red cent. I rarely make broad generalizations, but based on past experience all insurance companies are staffed by scumbags. If anyone reading this is an unscummy insurance agent, I appologize, but I have yet to meet one. My last insurance fiasco involve 127 phone calls in 2 weeks to an adjuster that had a sworn statement from their insured stating she was at fault. They still refused to return my calls until I left a message with them during a conference call with my lawyer. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> NOT KR Related
robert glidden wrote: > Seewhen you fly airplanes that don't have electrical systems,you > don't have to worry about all that fancy stuff not working.I guess > one could say she had a BAD day... Not as bad of a day as the mechanic should have had the next time he showed up at work... -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Getting money back on my taxes
Matthew Elder wrote: > Well you can't possibly remodel a bathroom for as cheap as you can > buy the canopy... :-) I think it's obvious! I could, but then I have enough stuff ratted away that I wouldn't have to buy much. I'm keeping it stashed for a time when I really need the extra wife points ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Buying and selling on the KRNet
Phillip Matheson wrote: > > This is what I under stand PAYPAL is meant to do ?? > Am I wrong. Paypal is just a way to send money, and they're very good at stealing it themselves. If the buyer even hints at the product not being as described Paypal will take the money back from the seller permenantly. I've never heard of the buyer getting his money back, either. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Fw: [barnstormers.com] Re: GlassGauge Air Data Instruments
David Mikesell wrote: > Get used to bubba using you for his wife!!! Hey! What did I do to get dragged into all of this? ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Bubba
David Mikesell wrote: > I swear I don't know where they dd's came from. Generally the plastic surgeon, but they seem to be kept at certain drinking establishments around here... Sorry, very long day today. 12 hours standing in front of a milling machine tends to make me a bit annoying. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Parachutes
Mark Langford wrote: > > Absolutely. And not only that, but structural failures are > incredibly rare in aircraft in general, KRs in particular. Only in > these rare cases will a parachute help, and as Bob says, there's no > guarantee then. Far more likely is fuel starvation, or an engine > problem of some sort, like carb ice, ignition, valve train, or crank > problems. In these cases, I'd try to put it on the ground if at all > possible. I agree that if you're feeling that unlucky, or live in an > area with particularly unfriendly terrain, go for a ballistic chute. > I think there's probably a good reason why you rarely see a pilot get > into a perfectly good airplane wearing a parachute... I'd still rather get out of a perfectly good airplane wearing a chute than get out of a borked airplane without one ;) (borked= typo that wound up sounding funny and suitable, so it is no longer a typo) The way I see it, $500 for a used chute and another $40 for a repack and inspection is cheap compared to not getting to fly, see my family, make fun of people stuck in Pipers, etc. I'm planning on flying aerobatics (NOT in the KR!!!) in the near future, too, and I'll have to have a chute for that anyway. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> recovery parachute system
joe wrote: > If one is really concerned, then lose some weight and install > a BRS. From what I have read they have a %100 successful > personal safety rate and in most cases the aircraft can be > reconstituted. > > Has anyone ever read any information that contradicts this > claim. They're only good to 160 knots according to their website. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not ...
Brian Kraut wrote: > From the FAA A.C. 43.13 (You have read the FAA bible, havn't you?): I was thinking it was more like the Necronomicron ;) > 1-43. REPLACING SOLID TYPE SPARS WITH LAMINATED TYPE SPARS > Solid spars may be replaced with laminated spars or vice versa, > provided the material is of the same high quality. > > There is also supposedly excellent book on wood aircraft design and > construction that someone mentioned a while back (Don Reid?). Wok, works for me. Laminated it is. I have a strong feeling that it'll be much easier to get good wood in smaller pieces. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not ...
Donald Reid wrote: > > You do NOT want to make spar caps out of plywood. In the FAA > reference, they are talking about laminating using with the wood > fibers oriented along the length of the spar. The grain may be > oriented in a variety of different ways in spar lamination, but the > wood fibers must run the length of the spar. Again, there was never any discussion of using plywood for spar caps. We were talking about laminating wood with the grain in all the layers running spanwise. The only use for chordwise grain in spar caps is to keep them from splitting, and I can't think of any reason for that except in an I-beam spar, and the chances of the shear web wedging into the caps is still nearly comical. (Note: the above opinion was checked out with both a mechanical engineer and an aerospace engineer. Both agreed 100%) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Call me crazy
Ron Smith wrote: > I was thinking of making my own main gear out of carbon graphite. > 20-30 layers of 282, 4 inches wide, laid over a form to match the > shape of Groves gear. > > I know that carbon graphite can be brittle. I think it could build it > strong enough but would it be springy enough? Kevlar would probably be a better choice, but figuring out how thick to make it is way, way beyond what I can do. I suppose I'd laminate x layers of kevlar, wrapped completely in 2-3 layers of glass (to give something to sand), and bagged over a form. Or maybe filament wound would be better. Takes forever to wind about a mile of kevlar tow around a couple of pins, but you know the fibers are straight. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Non-zero spar loads was Question on bent spars
Wesley Scott wrote: > The vertical shear spar loads will not drop to zero inside the > fuselage, unless the seats are mounted to the longerons instead of to > the spar as they normally are. The horizontal shear loads caused by > the bending moments remain constant (not zero) inside the fuselage if > there is no vertical load applied to the spar inside the fuselage. Guess I didn't mention I'm mounting the seat supports to the floor and sides of the fuselage ;) Half the cockpit (seat, armrests, headrest) is this foam thing. I'll put some pics somewhere when the plans show up and I've had time to build more than a mockup. I was reminded of something useful today. Waterjets can cut any solid, including carbon, G2 and FR4 fiberglass, and plyfoam :) This will greatly simplify my life. I can just lay up a full sheet of foam/carbon, build a CAD file, and in 10 minutes have a jigsaw puzzle-like pile of stuff that turns into a seat assembly. Ain't technology great? :) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> bending radius
Dene Collett (SA) wrote: > Hi again guys > Can someone give me the minimum bending radius for 1/8" 4130 plate > (with and across the grain). Doh! My car broke down on the way to work today so I don't have my charts handy. With a few exceptions min. bend rad. for most materials is equal to the thickness of the metal. The chart has every common alloy of steel, aluminum, copper, brass, etc. and shows their MBR and bend allowance. If no one answers by tomorrow I'll try to remember to check it. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Re: Réf. : KR> For Bubba on wood
Ron Smith wrote: > > Let's see wood kit is 700 bucks. Say you save 300 bucks. Is three > hundred bucks worth carrying around that extra 10 lbs for the life of > the aircraft? > > I don't think so. My humble opinion again. Look at it a different way: Is that 10 pounds worth being 10% stronger? I know the structure shown on the plans is strong enough for a plane flown at 175 mph with a 65 horsepower engine, but what about that same structure flown at 220 mph with a 140 horsepower engine? While I'm thinking about weight, does anyone know how much the plywood skins on the fuselage weigh? Very roughly calculating it the foam/glass I'm using instead weighs 12 pounds for both sides and the floor. I found one reference that said birch plywood is about 56 PCF but I don't know how much I trust that number. Originally I thought that the foam/glass might weigh a bit more, but it's starting to look like it'll weigh less, possibly a LOT less, and I have no doubts that it's substantially stronger. I'll be building a couple of test panels to destroy before I start building, but I'm confident that it'll work best for me. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Re: Réf. : KR> For Bubba on wood
Ron Smith wrote: > Let's see wood kit is 700 bucks. Say you save 300 bucks. Is three > hundred bucks worth carrying around that extra 10 lbs for the life of > the aircraft? > > I don't think so. My humble opinion again. This is interesting. The boat, not counting skin, firewall, etc., is about 1500 inches of 5/8" sticks. That's .5425 cubic feet. Spruce would weigh about 15.2 pounds, fir about 16.8 pounds. Mine, with foam/glass skin and a fir skeleton should be around 32 pounds. That's actually lighter than an ultralight I designed a couple of years ago (37.4 pounds, based solely on computer models, I never built it). Now if I can make that P51 tail work I'll be happy ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> doug fir
patrusso wrote: > > Indeed, I have just finished building an Horizon 2 for a non > woodworking friend. The kit was all pine. Yes pine. 3/4 square stock > for the fuselage with 3/32 plywood covering on the sides and fabric > top and bottom. It is amazing what you can get away with. One must > just be imaginative, and bold and willing to do a few simple testing. There were quite a few certified planes built with pine used structurally. Just have to put the right amount in the right places. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> doug fir
rhartwi...@juno.com wrote: > > Where does this info come from? You can't increase the strength of > wood simply by cutting it into strips and gluing it back together. Sure you can, especially if the part needs to be bent. Just flip every other strip so the grain directions cancel out. It's just a huge pain in the backside getting everything cut, planed, and fitted right. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Bathroom Scales
Brian Kraut wrote: > > This assumes that you have access to an accurate scale for your > calibration. Use the one at the post office. It would be best if there were no witnesses ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> going to Reno
larry flesner wrote: > > Have you gone to Mark Langford's site and checked out the KR100 ? > > It raced at Reno several years. To find the current owner, go to the > FAA site and do a search for KR100. I think the N number may > have been 100KR. Yup. Saw it and want one. It would be just about perfect. Looks like it lives in Arizona now. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> going to Reno
BSHADR wrote: > > Actually, Doug Pearce was the last owner while it was in AZ. He went > through a divorce. The plane migrated to Alabama the end of July > 2003. Jim Stone purchased it. Sorry, I do not have any contact info > for him. I would guess one of the regular Reno Formula 1 guys would > know more. That is a pretty small pilot community. According to the FAA Doug Pearce still owns it. Probably a beaurocracy issue. I'm hoping to fly in Sport Class. I have no intentions of winning, just looks like fun :) F1 would be nice but the KR1 wing is a bit too big and I don't want to have to shell out the cash for an O-200. > For racing purposes, the tail had been clipped WAY down and it grew a > bubble canopy just big enough for a helmet headed pilot. Last known > registration number was N1004K. I'm not sure if the wings had been > clipped or not. I do suspect that while Doug owned it, the small > tail might have caused the bird to clip some runway lights and > toasted a race O-200. It was sans engine when it headed east. Sold > in the $8-9K range. Would be nice if there were plans for it out there somewhere. It's exactly what I want. Fast and one seat. Slow and 4 seats is Cessna's job ;) From what I understand the KR100s wing is the same as the KR2s except for the flaps, so the design is obviously strong enough. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not ...
Stephen Jacobs wrote: > > I also believe this - so here is a question for the knowledgeable > among us: > > How about making up wing spar caps out of several laminations of ply? > As we are taught, a good scarf makes for any length you like without > any strength compromise. > > 8 x 1/4" laminations would make up the correct depth (for a 2" spar > cap) and work just fine for the bent spar. > > Using 5 ply must surely result in a bullet proof spar? If we can collectively prove to me that this would be structurally sound I'll build it that way. I'd rather have the dihedral be set at the centerline than at the end of the stub wings. I know it's strong enough, but I still want solid proof of it. Laminating the longerons would make life a lot easier, too. No more trying to find 14 foot pieces. Just scarf 8 foot pieces together to make pieces as long as you need, staggering the joints, and laminate it all together. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Parachutes
Call me paranoid, but I'm thinking it's a good idea to wear a chute while flying my project, and not just during the 40 hours. So now I'm stuck with a bit of a situation. I need a chute to design the seat, but if I buy a chute now I have to pay to get it repacked every 4 months even though I'm not using it. But then I could just not get it repacked until a few weeks before the first flight. Anyway, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get a chute? Needs to be on my back, not a seat or chair pack, and $1500 for a National is right out. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Parachutes
Jim Sellars wrote: > Steve:\ >Practically speaking if the thing won't work you don't need it. > If you have ever sat in a KR2 you would know that getting out with > the wind forces and all that would make it almost impossible to > egress unless you made the canopy an emergency release. On the other > hand simply doing a forced landing in a field or what ever you can > find is the next best option, if you are concerned ware a helmet, and > stay in glide distance of the field until you're sure the plane can >fly where you want to go. From experience If I'm getting out of the airplane it's not going to be in a stable glide. It'll likely have a major structural failure and once it starts moving any direction other than forward popping the canopy latches will probably result in the canopy being ripped off it's mounts and then I'm out of there. Epoxy cures faster than bones heal ;) I need to find a helmet, too. I have 4 sitting around, but they're not suitable (full face motorcycle helments). One of these days I'll find a deal on a military helmet. If I stick that turbo I was eyeing in there I could use the matching O2 mask, too :) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> parachutes
patric...@usfamily.net wrote: > I was certified as a chute packer while in the Air Force Reserves. > It is not difficult to do and I would think that if you joined a > local sky divers club you could learn and get yourself certified to > pack your own chute and you could also get in a few jumps to know > what to do if you ever needed to do it. I was thinking about that, actually. Would be nice to test the chute I'm wearing in the real world, but I don't know what they'd say about that. > I also do not think you could > get out of a KR2 in an emergency. I often wondered why one has to > wear a chute to do acrobatics in a Citabria when you can't get out of > an aircraft like that either. Pat Driscoll My dad was a Cessna test pilot years ago and told me about the door jettison handles that were installed. I think they were basically just a handle attached to the door hinge pin. Once there's a hole to go through it's not tough to get out of an airplane. The hard part is making that hole ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not ...
patric...@usfamily.net wrote: > > If laminations are as strong as I think they are, why couldn't a > person laminate a well grained piece of pine for spar caps? Yup, just have to calculate the strength and make sure it's suitable. Also have to make sure the wood is durable enough. It would suck mightily to have your spar rot out of the wing in 5 years. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not ...
patrusso wrote: > Not a good idea. Not all the plys are going in the direction you > would want them to for the spar. There are many planes with plywood > spars but they are usually capped with a solid timber. We're not talking about going down to Home Depot and getting a sheet of 1" CDX. All the layers would have the grain running spanwise, but every other one is flipped so any grain angularity is cancelled out. I know that laminated wood is stronger, I've done it myself and seen the results, but I have no idea how to calculate it to put a number to the strength. I know the design, built to plans, is more than strong enough, but I'd really like to put the dihedral break in the middle of the fuselage instead of out in the airstream. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> All the metal bits
Is there currently a source for wing attach fittings, control surface horns, and all those other little metal bits scattered through the airframe? If not I might be able to do something about that. I just accepted a job at a shop with, among other things, the biggest waterjet I've ever seen. I could easily cut multiple sets of every metal bit in a KR2 in one setup. I've seen smaller swimming pools before. First project is going to be my firewall, then the airfoil templates. This is gonna be fun :) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> To laminate or not /...dihedral
larry flesner wrote: > > If you're looking for pure speed, why have any dihedral at all ?? > > Dihedral = stability and stability = drag ? Or has my brain exceeded > > Vne? Yeah it's probably a little more drag, but I kinda like it when my landing gear would rather point down than up ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Question on bent spars
Ron Smith wrote: > I plan to make my spars with the dihedral bend at the fuselage. Mark > Lankford wrote that this bend might occur inside the fuselage. > > If they are built that way I don't see how they can rest on the > bottom longeron, and still be in plane with the rear spar. (because > of the taper) > > I plan to bend mine just after the fuselage wall. > > Am I missing something? I'd a bit hesitant to put the bend at the fuselage sides. Spar loads are highest right at the sides of the fuselage and drop to zero inside the fuse. Bending the spar instead of cutting it is certainly stronger, but I still don't know if I'd want the bend right there. If the bend is inside the fuselage you just have to move the spars to set the incidence. It may very well put the wing higher on the fuselage than intended, but I doubt that would be an issue aerodynamically. Worst case you have to build a foam and glass belly pan and make the bottom of the fuselage rounded like the turtledeck and front deck. Hey, here's a thought, why not get some good, straight grained pine and make a couple of test pieces? Make one perfectly straight and the other bent and see which breaks where. Or even balsa would do. It isn't a test to see how strong the actual spar is, just whether the bend costs strength. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Spar questions
B. Ferguson wrote: > Hello, > > With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of > the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048 > airfoil, would add enough strength to the center section to allow for > fitting of the 1-B wings? Adding a large amount to the span would no > doubtedly lower the g rating, but would it not be feasable to build a > 2-B using a laminated center section to beef up the structure for the > needed support? The outer parts of the wings have suprisingly little load on them. At the tips it's nearly zero. So The long wings built with long 2S spars should be fine. That's just my opinion though, I haven't seen the changes to the 1B wings. > Steve and I have a lot in common, we're both in Houston headed for > Reno. He wants to race and I'd like to catch some of that Minden wave. I'm planning on flying out there this year, KR or not (most likely some misc. spam can), if you feel like going the long way. One of these days I'm going out to Waller, too. It's unbelievably cheap to rent a club sailplane. Like $9/hr plus tows and dues. > Been lurking here for most of 2003 and have found the discussion > interesting, so I finally decided to throw out my first newbie/dumb > questions. As for me I'm not an engineer, but one sure fire way to see > if the spar would take the weight would be to build one and test to > destruction. If anyone has a slightly less expensive solution I'd love > to hear and yes, I need to do some homework with regards to wood > strength, any suggested reading besides the archives? I'm sure anyone > that might want to avoid the hassle of medical exams would be too. > (trust me doc, my prostate is A-OK) I would destruction test a pair of spars if I had the capability. I don't have any way of putting 4500 pounds of pressure on anything, much less getting the load distributed right. And the medical sucks. I got my first one the day before my 16th birthday and he STILL had to check that. Insane IMHO. > KR design decision made, still gravity bound on Suzuki. Buell and Kawasaki for me ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> All the metal bits
robert glidden wrote: > I could >> easily cut multiple sets of every metal bit in a KR2 in one setup. > > I may be interested in a few things if you can swing them,let me > know.. glid...@ccrtc.com Once I get the plans, digitize the parts in question, lay it out, and figure out what it'll cost I'll say something. Have to do some homework. > Why would you need to make your firewall on a water jet? Is your new > employer going to have a problem with you tieing up a very expensive > machine with KR parts? Don't really need to do it on a waterjet, but I need to teach myself how to use the thing (long story) so might as well make use of the time. Right now we don't have a night shift so the shop goes silent at 5. This is a bad thing, but works out for me. There are also 5 CNC punches sitting around if the waterjet is overkill. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Spar questions
Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Why test a pair of spars? One will do. One stock, one laminated. Gotta have a control :) > And as far as a test setup > and apparatus, check out > http://www.flysquirrel.net/wing/spartest.html and see if you can > duplicate the high-tech test setup detailed there... PS; I'm an > engineer and I find no fault with this type of "first cut" analysis > to see if you're even in the ballpark. This type of test can be > prepared one weekend and run the next (after cure). You numerical > types may take exception, but I don't. If it fails in this type of > "backyard" scenario, you've got no business flying it at Reno! That should work. Not "perfect" since the load is pretty much linear, but close enough. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Re: Bubba
Mark Jones wrote: > Steve, > Please excuse my ignorance as I may have missed your introduction to > the KR family. Where are you located? A bit north of Houston, purely by force. > What is your age and building > experience? 30 and no full scale, but more RC than I can remember. Been flying for 18 years and had 2 generations of pilots in the family before me. > I did a search on your N number (N205FT) and there were > no results? Just curious. It's still working it's way through the system. Should be updated any year now. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Re: Réf. : Re: KR> VE resin
Phillip Matheson wrote: > Scott > Just to clear up my mind > Are you saying that if you paint PVA release agent onto a layup on > V/E or P/E resin it will make it dry better?? > > V/E does have drying problems, it stays tacky for some time, > Does PVA help this. VE and PE resins are air inhibited. The surface in contact with air will never cure to rock solid. PVA blocks the air and solves that problem. So does mylar layup (same thing Mark Langford does, but leave the plastic on). I'd spray it with a gun or airbrush, though. Don't want to mix it into the resin. I keep a rechargable spray can around for PVA. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin
Stephen Jacobs wrote: > > I am also interested in the comment regarding PVA as a potential > solution, but what are we talking about - PVA wood glue? PVA water > soluble release agent? PVA wall paint? The release agent stuff that washes off easily. I never, ever use wax (or waxed resin) since it trashes any bonds to that surface in the future. I usually try to lay everything out so no joints are completely cured before adding the next part, though. For example, if I was glassing a foam bulkhead and skin section which would need to be joined I'd make sure to get the two assembled before the glass skin cured. That way it's a chemical joint, not just mechanical. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin
Glasseyegav wrote: > So you approve of using foreign materials like PVA inside your fuel > tanks! "I DON'T THINK SO" I don't need that sort of contamination > in my tanks. I wouldn't use PVA in there any more than I would wax, actually. You can't see the inside of the tanks, why would you need to sand them? -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin
Glasseyegav wrote: > > U you wouldn't need to sand them ! but you also don't > want to have uncured resin in there either. True, but then I'm planning on aluminum tanks anyway. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Buying wood
A few years ago, the first time I started thinking about building a KR, there was a bunch of talk about the difficulty of finding decent sitka spruce. Has that changed any? Because of that, and the need for more strength, I had decided to use douglas fir. That decision still stands for the most part, but now I'm thinking I'd rather buy wood locally so I can get what I need for a weekend without getting slaughtered with shipping. Doing it that way will reduce the chances of wood getting damaged while waiting to be used. Anyway, is there anyone in/near Houston that knows of a lumberyard that carries a BUNCH of douglas fir in fairly large lengths? I need 14' minimum, 16' would be nice so I can true up both ends. Hey, here's a thought. How about if I get ahold of my friendly neighborhood EAA chapter and start bugging them? ;) There's one at CXO where I'm planning on keeping my KR and whatever spam can we wind up with. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Buying wood
patric...@usfamily.net wrote: > Bubba, > The first KR I built, I went to the local boat yard in White Bear > Lake, > MN and bought some Sitka spruce from them. The local FBO at So. St. > Paul > airport carried aircraft plywood so I was covered all directions. > Try a boat building shop in your area but don't tell them you are > building an airplane. Ahh, good idea. Boat builders use fir, too. If they insist on know what I'm doing I'll say it's a really big model. Built about the same and it will contain servos anyway ;) Speaking of that, I'd like an extremely basic autopilot, mostly just a wing leveler and altitude hold. I have schematics and source code for the altitude half of it, but couldn't find anything for the leveler. But since I'm going to use RC servos for the trim tabs, why not just use an RC gyro? I'll have to dig around and find out exactly how the helicopter heading lock servos work vs. normal gyros, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Buying Wood
ronev...@cox.net wrote: > > Since most mill-run construction lumber isn't dried, a builder would > want to season it until the moisture content is reducted to a minimum > in order to ensure that the fibers sabilize. If I remember right there is kiln dried wood available for furniture makers. I suspect that's the place to start looking. There's a woodworking store down the road a bit that might be able to get it. I had forgotten about them. > I recall reading about builders who used douglas > fir for construction of a KR, and the added weight was less than 10 > lbs. Therefore, I think using douglas fir is a viable option for > builing KRs...or any wooden airplane. Hemlock is another choice, but isn't as easy to find as fir according to what I've read. Fir is the best choice in my opinion. Lots of it around once you find the right source, much cheaper, and I can spare a few extra pounds for the extra strength. > However, if you insist on using > spruce, I have a KR-2s fuselage, built of spruce, for sale right > now...for only $150. Come and get it boys! If it was close to Houston I'd seriously consider it even though I'm wanting a narrowed, stretched fuselage. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Assembler, was Newbie Questions
Dana Overall wrote: > > Got my firewall painted Imron black Does Imron stick to stuff besides aluminum? I've never used it. Personally I'm going to engine turn all the stainless and aluminum under the cowl, but everything else is getting painted. Plain, boring arctic white with a red/blue color changing stripe down the sides of the fuselage and on the tips of the stabs and wings. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR>Knock out punch, Assembler, was Newbie Questions
Jack Cooper wrote: > I think Dana is going to deliver the knock out punch when he flies his > assembled kit before many of us who have been building our KRs long > before he started assembling. Sometimes I wish I could put rivet A > into hole B and go flying, or is that rivet 7281 into hole 7282? Am I the only one envisioning a flying erector set? ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Assembler, was Newbie Questions
Jack Cooper wrote: > Dana > How can you land a RV on 5.9 acres with a creek, pond, woods and a > log home on it? You'll need more grass or rotor blades one. Oh, you > don't do rotors do you. Good, old fashioned 1 point landing? Getting in is easy, getting out might take a bigger engine. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Buying Wood
renosad...@aol.com wrote: > Steve is it just the boat you have built or do you have th tali > feathers to? I have nothing yet, but gimme a month or two and I'll have at least a funny looking canoe in the garage. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Tweety Flew
Orma wrote: > obsession with aviation. > > Poor lady, she has only seen the tip of your Iceberg. Just look at > Bill, I don't think he has had a weekend at home lately. I already told my wife I'm putting the hangar's address on my driver's license. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Tweety Flew
Brian Kraut wrote: > They don't get really upset until you start listing the N number as > your spouse! Yup, I'm dead... I haven't mentioned there's only going to be one seat, either. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR>Knock out punch, Assembler, was Newbie Questions
Dana Overall wrote: > > Steve, after building a KR-2 it is somewhat different. I still > remember Langford's face when I clecoed together an entire flap in > something like 2.5 minutes:-) I was going to build an RV-4, until I remembered I suck at sheet metal. If it's a flat piece I can generally get by, but if there's a bend all bets are off. That's why I decided to build a KR instead. I have no idea how I'd get these huge hands of mine into various parts to buck the rivets. > And Jack, I have looked for land with a large enough flat spot for a > runway but in KY that is a rare find!! A few weeks ago I watched a couple of guys, one in an RV-4, the other in a -6, take off into a fairly good bit of wind (15 gusting to 20 if I remember right). I think their takeoff rolls were measured in inches ;) I was in the right seat of a Navion and it took a bit more room. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin fuel Tanks
Doug Rupert wrote: > > I have been > watching the PVA thread and wondered why go to all the trouble when > resin/material suppliers all carry Air Dry which is especially made > to eliminate the tackiness problem and is used for the final lay-up > for a smooth slick surface that is tack free. I just don't like the idea of additives in resin after an incident involving thinning resin. Part looked fine but crumbled when it came out of the mold. No fun. I'm sure this stuff you're talking about wouldn't do the same thing, but I'm still a bit gun shy. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> For Bubba on wood
Ron Smith wrote: > When there has never been a structural failure with a KR using > spruce, why would you add ten pounds to the structure? Build as light > as you can. Ounces can kill you in the end, why add pounds? > > My humble opinion of course. I'm going to Reno and have to demonstrate a 5g pullup. I'm putting an engine with twice the power the plans call for in the thing and it's going to be way, way faster than originally intended. But then I'm also putting less seats in it than designed, so I'd most likely be fine without the extra strength. But fir is substantially cheaper and easier to find than spruce, too :) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin fuel Tanks
gleone wrote: > Doug, > This sounds like a great idea. Thanks for sharing it as I'm going to > be starting on my tanks here shortly. Quick question: Are you > roughing the surface before applying the gelcoat or applying it > directly and how many coats? Normally you spray or brush a coat of gelcoat into the mold before adding any glass, but when there's no mold it's best to brush it on when the resin is green. I'd use red gelcoat. Easier to see spots you might have missed. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Hypothetical question
Hello, I'm the new guy and about to start building a stretched KR2S, either narrowed to one fat seat or widened to two skinny ones. Well, actually more like a normal seat and a folding jumpseat, but that's a minor detail. Now the question. How strong is the structure of the KR2S as built according to plans? 200 horsepower worth? 250? I'm only planning on putting a Corvair engine in there, but if someone wanted to do something nuts and stuff in an IO-360 and go to Reno, could it handle it? My plan is to fill the fuselage sides and bottom with foam between the stringers and verticals and glass everything inside and out, vacuum bag the wing skins, etc. for reasons other than strength like cabin noise/heat and ease of assembling the wing. If it'll go 220 MPH I'll be perfectly happy. That should be enough to make a few laps at Reno. Last qualifier last year was a Vari-EZ that went 217 MPH. I don't care if I win, I just want to fly a few laps :) -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Selling my Kr?
robert glidden wrote: > You put your dog higher on the list then I would > > >> Here's a list of things I would never sell or give up. >> >> My: >> >> 1. Faith >> 2. Wife >> 3. Kids >> 4. Country >> 5. Dog >> 6. Kr2s Wife is way higher, too. Airplanes may argue with you, but, unlike wives, occasionally you win ;) -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Selling my Kr?
Brian Kraut wrote: > And I thought the first one to chime in on that one would mention > that the wife comes just after the KR. Sorry, I would have said something sooner but my wife was yelling at me again. -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR>Dog?
Mark Langford wrote: > > Dog? What dog? See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/05011308m.jpg , > dated Jan 13, 2005. Fortunately Jeanie came home early and stopped > the carnage. No, I haven't killed it.yet. But I was thinking a > little closer to China... Just glass the dog heavily using scraps of carbon. No more chewing problems. -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Dimensioned 3-views?
Does anyone have any 3 views, mainly top and side, with dimensions, of a KR2S sitting around? I'm building on in X-Plane just to mess around with it and can't quite get the fuselage to look right. -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Panel lighting
Jack Cooper wrote: > Jim Weir had a good article in Kit Plane this month about panel >lighting using cold cathode lights and el wire. I just ordered > some from http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv? I'll have to go find that issue. I'm a bit concerned about noise on the radio, though. The inverters most of those setups use are notoriously cheap and throw a ton of RF everywhere. Some of it was to the point that it would mess with computers a few years ago. Hopefully they've improved since then. I'd love to use the stuff. A strip or two of light tape or wire along the underside of the glare shield overhang, countersunk about .060", would light up the panel enough for flying at night. -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Hypothetical question
Brian Kraut wrote:
> I think you could easily get the 220 you are after using a 140 HP or
> so Corvair like Mark L. is using or even a souped up O-200. Build it
> light and you could be a serious contender for the Pazmany efficiency
> contest or any other race that will class you with other planes of
> the same engine size.
I'm definately going to try a Corvair before anything else with this one. It
seems like a good motor for this plane and I like building engines, but not
at Lycoming prices ;) How does the Pazmany contest work? X laps on a given
amount of fuel?
> I suggest getting a copy of Kent Paser's "Speed With Economy" and
> doing some work on drag cleanup, exhaust mods, etc.
I'll have to look into getting a copy. I already have the books needed for
the structural changes ("Airplane Design" and "Composite Basics"), plus I
have a trick up my sleeve. My dad has a degree in aerospace engineering.
Right now the problem isn't power or design changes, it's room for a 4' by
15' table and 2 motorcycles in a 1 car garage. The other half of the garage
is taken up with my office and the shop area. With some careful shuffling
and putting one bike in the house, where it should be anyway, I think it can
be done.
Just remember, if my wife asks it's just a really, REALLY big RC model ;)
Hmm... I wonder if I could get some big servos and...
> As far as filling the fusalage sides, one of my previous KRs had the
> sides filled and glassed on the inside back to just behind the seat.
> Probably didn't add more than two pounds and really made a difference
> in sound and heat insulation. I highly recommend it. The bottom of
> the fusalage had plywood all the way back to the forward spar and
> doesn't need anything else except the foam in the void spaces. I
> wouldn't worry about doing anything under or behind the seat.
I was thinking more along the lines of replacing the plywood entirely, along
with the gussets. I'd bag the whole thing, but I'm concerned about bending
the sides in after everything is laid up. That's bound to build in some
stress if it's even possible to bend it after it's glassed. I suppose doing
the layups, setting up the bag, then bending the sides into a jig before
pulling a vacuum and letting it cure may work, though.
For the wing skins I'm planning on hotwiring cores and bagging them with
glass. I'm not a big fan of carbon for structural parts after watching the
carbon fender on my bike crack from nothing more than turbulent air at...
well, we won't discuss the speeds involved here.
I'm still having trouble visualizing how to handle the canopy frame, but
I'll have a few months before it's time for that.
--
Steve
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> KR1, KR2, or KR2S?
I got to thinking about it and there's really no point in putting a 2nd seat in my airplane. I'm a big guy and barely fit into a Navion with anyone else, so the chances of stuffing anything else that breathes into that fuselage with me is laughable. So is there enough of a difference in the basic structure of the KR1, KR2, and KR2S to make a difference? The difference in the price of the KR1 and KR2S plans would buy a whole lotta spruce, foam, and glass... No matter which I go with I'll be stretching the fuselage so the upper longerons are 14" feet from firewall to tailpost, making the firewall 30" wide, using the new airfoils, building a turtledeck like a -2S, and putting the big RC plane gear on. Haven't decided on flaps yet, but I'm leaning towards simplicity and a belly board. I'll see if I can get the aerospace engineer on speed dial to figure out the best place to put it to keep the nose from pitching around wildly when I dump the thing on final. Power is going to be a Corvair turning a constant speed prop, panel will be minimal, just enough for night VFR and a handheld GPS (eMap, since I already have it) and radio. Just to make the project more "real" and motivate me to finish it, I reserved my number last night. First choice is N205FT. Everyone that knows me already figured it out. N20 is nitrous oxide, SFT is my initials. Been wanting N5FT for a couple of decades now. No, there will be no nitrous involved ;) -- Steve mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> KR1, KR2, or KR2S?
Ron Smith wrote: > > The inside dimentions of a C-172 cabin width is 39 inches. My inside > dimention for cabin with is 42.25. I widened my cabin by 6 > inches. I'm buliding a KR2S, much the way you described. Use the Kr > archives to find out the details on my plane. I reccomend you > read Mark Lanfords entire site, especially his "opinions" section. It's not so much the size as the gross weight. I'm 6'4"/265#, so with 20 gallons in the wings I'm down to 75# left for baggage (breathing and otherwise). I've probably read Mark's site twice now. Lots of good stuff there. > The difference in building a KR1 and a KR2s in the overall scheme of > things is minimal in cost. I think you have a much more desirable > plane with the KR2s. My humble opinion. I'm not concerned with cost. This isn't a cheap hobby ;) > Gary Morgan stated that he has taken passengers of up to 295 lbs in his > widened and stretched KR2s. see the link. Wow, not sure if that's even possible around here (Houston) in the summer! > Good luck and get buillding, you won't regret it. I just have to make a few big decisions before I start, then I'm going to spend every second possible gluing, sanding, glassing, and anything else. Just have to make sure no one tells my wife it's not just a really big model ;) -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Spar dimensions
Does anyone have the dimensions of the spar caps (width and depth) and the length and thickness of the blocks between them handy? I'm bored and feel like figuring out how strong the things are. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Soda for gathering
robert glidden wrote: > Dana > It's like a guy I used to ride with,he on his Harley and me on my > goldwing.He said atleast you are riding.Atleast your flying in > something.Get there earlier this year so you can join the after hour > forums..Bob In that case I might actually be able to appear, assuming I can get a few little things done like buying something airworthy, finishing my private, etc. ;) Just don't laugh at the guy in the Cessna, Navion, or whatever. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> VE resin
jscott.pi...@juno.com wrote: > VE resin should work fine for that. The strength qualities are > similar to epoxy. Final sanding can be a bit more difficult, which > is why I think most KR builders would build this part with Epoxy. If VE is anything like PE, spray it with PVA after the layup is finished and it'll cure hard and sand way easier. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Soda for gathering
Matthew Elder wrote: > > Two votes for Amber Bock.. And here I thought I was > the only one in the south that drank the stuff... If the stars align right I'll bring some homebuilt stuff (seems appropriate). There's some cider sitting on the counter that looks like used motor oil and will strip Imron, but tastes pretty good ;) I swear the stuff has an octane rating. Hmm, there's enough time to make another batch of lemonaid. I'll have to get on that. Wonder if I can turn it blue and call it 100LL... -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Spar dimensions
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote: >Check your plans, Virg I would if they were here yet... -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
KR> Spar dimensions
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote: >And he who waits will get the plans, Virg ( or should this have > been > sent direct??) And he who plans ahead and verifies the spar design in the plane is suitable for his uses will survive to fly again. -- Steve N205FT mystic...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
