KR> 3rd for sale
erimental homebuilt aircraft Reply to: sale-dxakg-1175967...@craigslist.org List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 2009-05-17, 9:34PM KR2 experimental homebuilt aircraft. 75 % complete. Fusalage complete, wings built and need ailerons installed. Bill Defreeze retractable tri gear. Corvair engine conversion started but not completed. Health forces sale. $4000.00 firm. e-mail leebro...@netzero.com 724 567 6005 evenings after 9:00 * Location: Vandergrift * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests Original URL:http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/1175967846.html
KR> 2nd for sale
-2 aircraft Reply to: sale-bcjhx-1214560...@craigslist.org List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 2009-06-10, 10:46AM This is an experimental class kit plane fiberglass fuselage see URL's (fly_kr.com),(krnet.org) for full info on this plane. VW TEC-4 powered 74 hp.will trade for two quads. CALL # (586) 781-4850 * Location: utica,mi * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests Original URL:http://detroit.craigslist.org/rvs/1214560282.html this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to: http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/o9maxcmbANDNt92YzF2Yu5CdAQXZU
KR> for sale
Experimantal Kit Plane KR-2 Reply to: sale-3wbar-1201320...@craigslist.org List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 2009-06-02, 10:33AM This is an experimental aircraft in kit form, the fuselage and tail feathers have been build. Wing stubs and retractable landing gear installed. Now she needs someone to take her to the next level. Pictures are a representation on what a finished KR-2 will look like. KR-2 Speed, economy and range...plus many premolded parts. Designed for the first-time builder. Utilizing wood and foam/fiberglass construction No hot-wiring required Pre-molded parts greatly speed construction time (approximately 800 hours)A well-proven design with hundreds currently flying Pre-built pictures of fuselage available upon request. Specifications Length 14' 6" Wing Span 20' 8" Total Wing Area 80 sq. ft. Empty weight 480 lbs. Gross weight 900 lbs. Useful load 420 lbs. Baggage capacity 35 lbs. max Take off distance 350 ft. Landing distance 900 ft. Stall Speed 52 mph Maximum Speed 200 mph Cruise Speed 180 mph Range 1600 miles (35 gal. fuel) Rate of Climb (light) 1200 fpm Rate of Climb (gross) 800 fpm Service ceiling 15,000 ft. Engine VW 2100 Fuel 12-35 gal. Fuel consumption 3.8 gph Landing gear Fixed conventional or trigear, or retractable conventional Will consider trade for a Meade 10" LX90-ACF f/10 or Meade 12" LX90-ACF f/10 Telescope is perfect condition Not interested in any other telescopes other then the two mentioned here or cash. Contact Paul via e-mail with questions. Location: Polk City it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 1195948108 * Location: Lakeland * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests Original URL:http://lakeland.craigslist.org/rvs/1201320591.html this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to: http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/o9maxcmbANDNt92YzF2Yu5CdAQXZU
KR> krs for sale
http://detroit.craigslist.org/rvs/1185280170.html http://detroit.craigslist.org/rvs/1156546768.html http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/1175967846.html
KR> kr for sale
Experimental Aircraft (Polk City) Reply to:sale-csvck-1195948...@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 2009-05-29, 9:37PM EDT This is an experimental aircraft in kit form, the fuselage and tail feathers have been build. Wing stubs and retractable landing gear installed. Now she needs someone to take her to the next level. Pictures are a representation on what a finished KR-2 will look like. KR-2 Speed, economy and range...plus many premolded parts. Designed for the first-time builder. Utilizing wood and foam/fiberglass construction No hot-wiring required Pre-molded parts greatly speed construction time (approximately 800 hours)A well-proven design with hundreds currently flying Pre-built pictures of fuselage available upon request. Specifications Length 14' 6" Wing Span 20' 8" Total Wing Area 80 sq. ft. Empty weight 480 lbs. Gross weight 900 lbs. Useful load 420 lbs. Baggage capacity 35 lbs. max Take off distance 350 ft. Landing distance 900 ft. Stall Speed 52 mph Maximum Speed 200 mph Cruise Speed 180 mph Range 1600 miles (35 gal. fuel) Rate of Climb (light) 1200 fpm Rate of Climb (gross) 800 fpm Service ceiling 15,000 ft. Engine VW 2100 Fuel 12-35 gal. Fuel consumption 3.8 gph Landing gear Fixed conventional or trigear, or retractable conventional For sale or trade Contact Paul via e-mail with questions. * Location: Polk City * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
KR> Keeping it outside?
beware "gutting" a motorhome.. Often, I believe, the internal cabinets, walls, etc are all part of the "unibody" structure. Remove them and whole thing will fold over sideways.. Proper gussets should be installed to carry the loads that are no longer borne by those internal structural walls and cabinets. just my 2 cents.. John Gotschall N611GB Puyuallup, WA
KR> porta potties save life of pilot and passenger.
http://www.kirotv.com/news/19346755/detail.html?treets=sea=sea_break=T=sea_break_1_05410105012009 jg
KR> see also
see also this article on shimmy: http://www.mykr2.com/TKL_FEB_2008.pdf jg
KR> RE :nose wheel shimmy
from Aircraft Landing Gear Design: Principles and Practices by Norman S. Currey: 9.5 Castering Nose Wheels ... Configurations a and b in Fig 9.24 are statically neutral and dynamically stable in both forward and aft movement. In the latter configiration, the wheel swivels 180 deg for aft movement. A shimmy damper is resuired for both configurations unless corotating wheels are used. Configuration c is statically and dynamically stable in both forward and reverse and also requires shimmy damping except, posibly, when t = R-1.2R. Configuration d is statically unstable and dynamically stable. It is unstable in reverse and the gear must be locked ot steered for this operation. Shimmy damping is required. This configuration is often used for tail wheels, using friction to provide shimmy damping. illustration at: http://www.mykr2.com/90437.pdf jg
KR> RE: KR nose wheel shimmy
Here's some super thick damping fluid, almost a gelatin http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html jg
KR> Tri Gear Conversion
That's exactly why I want those retracts up and have a smooth underbelly when putting down on the water. jg On Mon, 2009-04-20 at 11:05 +1000, Darren Crompton wrote: > > > > All my forced landing here in western Washington are probably going to > > be within reach of water.. > > > > Hi John > > Choosing to land on water should be considered only as a last resort. The > deceleration forces are huge, if you survive the ditching you could find > yourself unconscious or semi-conscious and end up drowning. > > Cheers
KR> Tri Gear Conversion
Netters, Not too long ago a kr-2 went down here in Washington. I understood it to be a fatality event. There were pics on the internet and a short video of an automobile tow truck trying to right the plane, which was tri-gear equipped and after landing in a (soft) field flipped over, I am guessing over the nose gear and prop. Probably the resulting flopping down on the head, upside down would account for the fatality.. but that is a guess. There was no fire. I have seen videos of tailwheel and tri gear aircraft landing in water. Always with devastating results. It seems to me that the same aircraft landing in mud or a very soft field would give similar results. The gear grab ahold of the water or mud, and provide unsafe deceleration. After watching and reading this group for more than a year or two I have not seen this discussed. What of the safety provided by retracts in super soft field (mud) and water landings? At the last gathering, I met john Shafer who had put his kr down in a corn field gear up (his was the only flying example of trigear full retracts on a kr2).. He described sliding along the mud, corn stalks, and snow (with gear up) as a non-event compared to having to do the same thing in a fixed trike or tailwheel plane. I know alot of guys have the original retracts, and alot of guys shun them. But isin't being able to clean up the undercarriage (during a forced landing) a HUGE plus? especially for super soft field (mud) or water landings? All my forced landing here in western Washington are probably going to be within reach of water.. I think it's worth keeping retracts for, or making a tricycle set of retracts for... Any opinions to chime in here?? ANyone here put down in water with fixed gear? How did that work out? John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> O2 gauge
some more "mechanical needle" O2 meters http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php jg
KR> prop for vw for sale
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/rvs/1110444207.html jg
KR> tail draggers
I have flown a vairety of taildraggers, but have not logged a lot of time overall in them, due to thier not being as readily available as try-cycle planes at clubs and fbo's. That being said, I would reccommend trying out several different birds, if you can find them. It's been my experience that they vary quite a bit. jg N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> Temporary partial loss of power
On Wed, 2009-04-08 at 12:13 -0700, Mark Moody wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied! > > Rich Seifert wrote: > I always drain the gascolator > before every flight to check for water and I think a simple fuel drain would > serve this same purpose. I think this will at least eliminate vapor lock This bothers me. If vapor lock is the problem, then cooling is the solution. A blast tube going into a lightweight cover over the gascolator is my plan, I think the mass of that cold fuel is the best protection for the (thermally insulated) short rubber tube from the gascolator to the carb. The gascolator has a small but sufficient sized mass of fuel in it to provide an environment suitable to the separation of water from fuel by gravity. In a moving mass: turbulent flow, the water will not settle out. I suppose the water has to be the fastest moving component in the mass if it is going to settle. The bowl for the gascolator provides this "settling pond" environment. I'd keep it. My 2 cents.. John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> Temporary partial loss of power
My kr2 is a tail dragger. When I do this test, I do it tail down with only 1 gallon of fuel in the 12 gal header tank, my system is gravity fed. I know that my fuel system will deliver 15 gal/hr using only the last gallon of fuel (worst case). I have also noted that after that one gallon has run out and the fuel system is dry, it then vapor locks (or something like that) because when I put another gallon into the dry system the fuel will not flow until after I open the fuel line at the carb and let the air out. It takes 15 to 30 seconds before the fuel appears at the carb end of the hose. Has any one else noticed this delay? GPAS 2180 w/revmaster turbo setup, revmaster carb under the engine. Gascolater low on engine side of firewall. This worries me because at times the fuel outlet in the bottom of the aluminum tank is sure to suck some air when the fuel is sloshing about when the supply is low. John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, wa On Tue, 2009-04-07 at 06:27 -0700, Rich Seifert wrote: > In your case; I would shoot for 15 gallons per hour > "at the carb float bowl" as a minimum.
KR> osprey 2 retracts.
I just received a set of osprey2 plans. I bought them to check out the retractable mains. I have not yet audited the dimensions, but it looks doable.. Their nosewheel design won't fit of course, so I am still searching for that solution. Looks like each main strut "working load" load is 1100 lbs, Gives only 2 g's landing load for a kr2. I had been hoping for something that would give more like 3 g's. john shafer, are you hearing this??? jg
KR> She Takes Flight
congrats, Mark. That makes we want to build build build.. jg N611GB
KR> kr for sale
http://detroit.craigslist.org/rvs/1062298573.html
KR> KR's in or near Cleveland
I'm flying commercial to Cleveland and staying most of the last week of this month. Are there any KR's in the neighborhood that I can get a look at? John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> florida craigslist
partial for sale http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/for/1025882351.html jg
KR> ebay
h.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KR2-Tri-gear-2-place-experimental-aircraft_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem180333484621QQitemZ180333484621QQptZMotorsQ5fAircraft jg
KR> gross weight?
A friend of mine took me for a ride in an RV 4 built by himself, his brothers and their dad. It had a big engine and a constant speed prop. I don't recall the engine size or designation, but it seemed huge. While flying the airplane, it felt like I was seated inside a bubble of alumninum foil attached to the back of a giant spinning anvil. While the airplane must have been properly balanced for flight, I could feel the plane being pulled (or resisted) every which way by that giant hunk of metal spinning out in front. It did not feel good. Except for doing a split-s at idle power, that hunk o' metal out front pulls you down and through.. Maybe I'd get used to it after a time. Perhaps the pluses to the arrangement would be revealed if I had been given free reign to try different maneuvers. I guess I am just saying, there's some good to not over-weighting your airframe with a big ole motor. jg On Wed, 2009-03-04 at 19:31 -0600, Larry Flesner wrote: > > > > > >The KR2s is specified to have an gross weight of 980 lbs. Is this > >independent of the size of the motor. > > Yes. The motor has nothing to do with it. It is a factor of the > structures capability to support the weight.
KR> deer
Mark, Did you ever paint a deer emblem on your plane? I think I've told that deer story to everyone I know. jg
KR> Venturi on a KR2S
Your welcome, glad you liked it. However, were I to do it again: instead of a v-belt I'd use a flat (micro-v) belt (ala revmaster). That would allow me to mount smaller pulleys onto the same shaft locations while still getting the same 3800 to 2500 rpm ratio between the pulleys. Also flat pulleys are naturally better suited to making tighter turns at higher speeds (around smaller pulleys) than V-belts. In fact this has been bugging me so much that I may make another set of pulleys rather than keep the set I made for the V-belt. Don't try to run the micro-v flat belt on a flat shaft surface, it needs the little groovlets to grip onto. Did someone say that everything took three times to get it right? jg On Tue, 2009-02-24 at 06:11 -0500, Gary Shubert wrote: > Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 John Gotschall wrote: > > Thanks that is exactly the type of information I was looking for. > > Gary >
KR> Venturi on a KR2S
You can try the method I used, look at the last few pics on the main page (internet exploder users may have to go right rather than down to see the pics) and look for a link to "vaccuum system" at http://www.mykr2.com belt driven vaccuum pump vw2100 all home brew. turns the pump at 2500 rpm when the crank turns 3800. jg turbo 2180 kr2, N611GB Puyallup, WA On Mon, 2009-02-23 at 18:40 -0500, Gary Shubert wrote: > > I've been struggling to find a way to drive my vacuum pump on my KR2S... >
KR> interesting web site
pick the plane, they show you the cockpit jg http://www.codeonemagazine.com/test/archives/2007/articles/jan_07/cockpits/cockpits.html
KR> repairman's certificate
This is exactly the point that the EAA guy at the Arlington airshow last year wanted to debunk. The guy from the EAA insisted that the best time to buy is just before the repairman cert is applied for. He insisted that "Anyone" can apply for it. If you buy the project, you or your mother, or anyone you'd like can apply for it. I pressed him on the point because that would make the purchase timing critical and the value of the project would vary wildly depending on the status of this issue. Anywho, the EAA guy was firm: you don't have to drive a single rivet (or squeegee a single drop of resin) to qualify for the repairman's cert. It is expected that a "project leader" type would apply. However, you may run into an official that won't cooperate with you because some competence in the field of aircraft repair is expected (not required). Can anyone quote the "regs" on this issue? thanks jg On Tue, 2009-02-17 at 18:05 +, Jeff Scott wrote: > Rule #2. A builder must complete 51% of the tasks involved in building the > aircraft to qualify for the repairman's certificate. Please note that I said > tasks, not 51% of the work. This is how the 3 weeks to taxi places work. > You drive one rivet in a wing skin and a team of workers drive the rest while > you work with them. In that sense, you have completed the task of riveting > the wing skin, even though your one rivet may be the one that is is hammered > in flat and looks crappy. >
KR> KR2 on ebay
I went to the EAA class on "buying a used experimental" where alot of this stuff was discussed. The idea is that since experimentals are becoming so common, that these issues of reselling need to be brought out for discussion. Basicaly I came away understanding: The plane must be amature built 51%. No one cares who those amature(s) are (were) as long as they were non-compensated (and you can prove it). You must convice the DAR of this. A builder's log is one good way to do that. Anyone, but only one, can ever sucessfully apply for the repairman's certificate for this aircraft. Usually this is the person most involved in the construction, but it does not have to be. You can buy a plane that is complete and built by people or persons within the 51% rule, a plane that you had nothing to do with the build, and still you can get the repairman's certificate as long as no one else has applied for it. A DAR will not like to give the cert to someone with no repairman skills, and may balk at giving it to you if you did nothing whatever in the build, another DAR may approve it because doing so fits the rules. (feel free to chime in here if you have the exact reg on this) I bought a complete experimental, the guy with the repairman's cert for the plane died of natural causes. No one will ever again have a repairman's cert for this plane, and it was priced to reflect that when I bought it. It will always have A inspections, which I think is a good thing anyway. jg
KR> Pulley assembly for Suburu engine
For $400 you could get a lathe at Harbor freight and turn your own pulleys.. I make my own pulleys from blocks of aluminum. Head to the shop (with a beer) turn on the radio and start cutting. jg On Sat, 2009-02-14 at 11:33 -0600, Kirk Lacewell wrote: > I'm trying to cpmplete a KR-2S started by someone else and have run into a > stumbling block. > > The Suburu engine runs the generator through a belt drive. There is a second, > smaller pulley mounted flush with the generator drive pulley which drives the > vacuum pump. > > This system seems to work, except that the guy who started the plane ground > the center of the pulleys down so far that they wobble terribly. > > I need to replace the two pulleys and can not find anything to replace them > with. > > My first question is: Does anyone know where I can get pulleys like this? > They both should have 15mm inner diameter. One is 60mm OD and the other is > 100mm OD. > > Second question: Does anyone have a suggestion for a better system to drive > my generator and vacuum pump? > > I have a quote from a local machine shop to custom fabricate a dual pulley > assembly for me for $400, but I'm hoping to avoid that option. > > Thanks, > Kirk Lacewell > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> finally current again
Guys, I can't help but be happy today, I finished my first BFR after more than 10 years of no flying (well, full scale anyway).. Divorce in Washington will strip you of all your posessions and future wealth, but only for ten years or so.. ( I'd guess about $650k or so) After 10 years of state imposed poverty: I am finally free, and now I can say flying again! wooo hooo! After ten years, I went to "get current" the instructor could not believe how greasey those landings were, so he made me do a few to be sure it wasn't just luck.. greased them all. Then on the second flight (today) I greased two more in a 18 knot 90 degree sidewind.. I crabbed it to the deck then kissed the windy wheel first, drug it along for a while then let the rest down. Sweet... The instructor was laughing hard when he saw ten years of dust bunnies and laundry room lint flying off my flight bag at the airport.. Too good to be true.. now I can fly, I just need to massage my kr to fly.. jg
KR> Aileron balance
I once flew a radio controlled plane (an Astro Hog) that was over powered by 50% into a power dive, and half way through the dive it made a very loud "brappp" noise (much louder than the engine noise at WOT) and then I witnessed part of the empennage fall away. When I landed the plane, I found one elevator panel was missing, and the other was shredded, but still somewhat effective. The distruction from the flutter was so fast there was no time to respond before the damage was done. This same plane in the same configuration had previously flown the same maneuver 20 or 30 times before. None of the control surfaces on this plane were balanced, the plans did not call for balancing, but then the plans did call for 50% less power. All other high performance or over powered RC planes I have built since have been modified for counter balanced surfaces. No more problems. jg
KR> exhaust system
N611GB turbo headers are wrapped in the fiberglass wrap in only a few places where the hot exhaust pipes come close to (hard) oil lines and oil filter. Later more sections may be wrapped if heating the cowl or other parts becomes a problem. There is doubt that it'll do any good as the flowing oil in those parts should cool them. These parts of the oil filter & cooler lines are hard and at the input to the cooler, so the oil will just go in there and get cooled anyway. The cooler is oversized 8.5x11in. jg
KR> not kr related
OK, I can't find a way to make this kr related, but it's sooo cool I can't help but share this. goto my web page and view a video of my linux desktop, you gotta see this! http://www.mykr2.com or maybe just the video here: http://www.mykr2.com/vid5.avi about 22 megs.. I get happy with my kr, and my linux... jg
KR> Re: Night flying?
As to night flying, I agree with Mark's comment about the pucker factor. The reality for me is that when I go flying (or go to do pretty much anything else I enjoy alot like sailing) and plan a day of it, I rarely get home on time. When the good times are rolling, who wants it to end? So I stay current for night flying 'cause I'm likely to be late getting home, and if I do get home on time it's gonna be at sunset (good for pics). Some times you'll want to leave at dawn or a little before, and so being night vfr current is handy there too. You'd have to have one heck of a good reason to start a long cross country at dusk or the middle of the night unless you are performing a medivac or something really urgent, not too likely in your KR. jg
KR> EGR valve as waste gate
Thanks for the detailed response. Let's explore the option of introducing the exhaust gases before or after the carb. On Mon, 2008-12-29 at 22:46 -0800, George Bearden wrote: > It displaces BOTH fuel and air, the mixture, not just oxygen selectively. > Thus the mixture remains almost the same. > > > wouldn't that really richen the O2/fuel ratio? > > No. Less fuel AND air. > In my application (or at least the way I saw it in my head), the exhaust gas would be intruduced into the inside of the air filter, inlet end of the carb (hopefully mixing with and tepmerature equalizing with the incoming fresh air source before finding it's way to the carb throttle plate). Since there is no EFI system, no immediate mixture setting changes at the carb will happen. The intakes gases/fuel mix should remain pretty much unchanged, but the fuel/O2 mix should effectively richen by virtue of the reduced concentration of O2 in the intake gases, but unchanged fuel delivery. > > Isin't richer farther from (and cooler than) detonation rather than > closer? > > Yes. > Or would it be better to do it the GM way, introduce the exhaust gas after the throttle plate? Then it would maintain the air/fuel mixture (as you say), but mostly reduce the effective power output without also richening the mixture. I kind of think enrichening it some might be a good thing if this is to happen at high energy (near or already pinging) combustion chamber conditions. Or am I just going to make alot of unnecessary soot (some if it on the intake side of my throttle plate)? Is it possible that HOT exhaust gasses introduced right after the carb might actually ignite the air/fuel stream in the vaccuum portion of the intake manifold? Should the gasses be routed through a cooling tube, maybe 1/2 or 3/4 inch x 4 or 5 feet long before entering the intake manifold? or maybe go through something like an intercooler? jg
KR> EGR valve as waste gate
I don't know, But when I read my GM manual, they use it to to cool combustion to reduce NOx emissions, they say it cools the fire enough to change the NOx emissions and is used only at higher throttle settings. They say the exhaust gas is inert and thus displaces (reduces) available oxygen, with the mixture control unchanged, wouldn't that really richen the O2/fuel ratio? Isin't richer farther from (and cooler than) detonation rather than closer? Of course on a EFI setup the mixture would automaticaly change to match available oxygen, which has been reduced, so fuel delivery would be reduced to match, and thus output power is reduced. The engine is starved for oxygen, but not for intake gasses. In any case, what I am looking for here is an automatic power reduction and this might provide one. If triggering the EGR system reduced power automaticaly I have my safety against overboost, and if it lights an idiot light at the same time, I'll be reminded to throttle back. ALso note I suggested running the exhaust gasses through 4 or 5 feet of 1/2" id tubing to help cool the gasses. That'd pull a few hundred degrees off of it. GM does not bother with that on my 350. jg On Mon, 2008-12-29 at 06:57 -0600, Mark Langford wrote: > Wouldn't routing hot exhaust gas into the intake lead to immediate > detonation? > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL > mail: N56ML "at" hiwaay.net > website: www.N56ML.com > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> EGR valve as waste gate
Turbo vw engine engineers: I just read on krnet about a turbo'd vw motor lifting a head at 3600rpm, 36" manifold pressure. My vw motor has the revmaster turbo setup, draw through carb, etc. No wastegate. 20 minutes running time, not yet flown. I once asked a turbo guru once about adding a wastegate, he said "no, the waste gate won't last in this application because it may be exposed to continuous duty" (this waste gate spills exhaust from the exhaust turbine inlet). In continuous operation the valve would fail. So here's my question: How about welding a "T" to the exhaust header near the turbine inlet: a place to attach a 1/2" tube. route the 1/2" tube around the engine once (to cool it), then use an automotive EGR valve at the cool end of the tube to spill exhaust (inert gas) into the carb inlet to lower combustion pressures. Adjust the motor on the EGR valve to operate pressure (from the other side of the diaphram) and set it to open at 32" manifold pressure.. Or it could be operated electrically by a pressure switch on the intake manifold set to 32". The switch could light an idiot light and operate the EGR valve. What do ya think? jg
KR> What? No vmc night?
Huh? My vfr flights (not in a kr yet) have almost always come home at night. So whut's wrong wit dat? I time it that way so I can go over Seattle at dusk (pretty to look at). Land a half hour later. jg
KR> photo of spinner
Guys, please see: http://www.mykr2.com/1229292337017.jpg Shouldn't there be a pair of screws in these locations, near to the prop blade opening? Maybe the prior owners never felt this was finished? And how the heck do you fabricate that forward spinner bulkhead and fit it to the interior shape of the spinner? jg p.s. Ever heard Ron White talking about his short flight in Texas, departing from the local "Airport, hair care and tire center"? Well, this is where I got my flight physical: http://www.mykr2.com/1227720662540.jpg
KR> ELT in restored kr-2
Guys, To be accurate my plane never had an ELT so if I get one now it's "new" isin't it? Don't new installations require the 406 unit? jg
KR> ELT in restored kr-2
2 things, In the regs just posted (e) 4 seems to indicate that while flying off the 40 hours (testing) it is NOT required, did I get that right? (I concur w/Mark L, these 40 hrs are not a good time to be without one). Canada's regs imposes a unilateral trade restriction. I wonder if Nafta or other treaty(s) might trump those regs? jg > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> ELT in restored kr-2
Hi, My kr-2 got it's airworthyness cert, and operating limitations back in the 1980's. Now with a new motor, canopy, fordeck and cowl, I am sure they will want me to fly off 40 hours in addition to the 22 already logged. What abot the ELT? It has none now. No mention of one in the logs. What do I have to do? Old style, new style, exempt via operating limitations, then get one later? what? thanks jg N611GB
KR> vw engines, liability
They do that here. If you are a man in Washington state and contest your divorce as respondent, you get to pay both sets of laywers. I know, 'cause I did. $36,000.00 jg On Fri, 2008-12-12 at 07:36 -0600, Mark Langford wrote: > Mark W wrote: > Things are a lot different in > Europe where if you sue and lose, you pay both sets of lawyers. People are > a lot less likely to sue if they know it's frivolous and it's going to cost > them dearly to do it if they don't win...
KR> knock sensor
Here's a link to a commercial product: http://www.turboxs.com/more_info.php?ID=212 There is a downloadable installation guide there. It appears from this that it's a bit of a complicated issue. It looks like a series of maybe two or three acoustic filters would be necessary to remove the normal engine sounds from the audio stream (signal from the sensor) and those filters would be different from engine to engine, or at least require custom configuration for each engine model. Then the remaining noise (knock) could be detected with a comparator, it's output fed to a lamp/buzzer driver, etc. This appears to be what the folks at turboxs have done. Thus far I have not found any specifics regarding the frequency response of the sensors: A properly set up sensor could include the necessary frequency response filtering already, simplifying the tuning issues. jg On Wed, 2008-12-10 at 21:18 -0800, George Bearden wrote: > I have never fooled with knock sensors. I did read up on them several years > ago. What struck me was the assertion that a knock sensor from one model of > engine can't be expected to work properly on a different engine. It was like > they had to change the knock sensor functionality when they made possibly > even minor changes to the engine. The natural frequency of each engine type > (do they REALLY have a natural frequency?) is such that detonation just > doesn't sound the same from engine to engine. > > I no longer depend on my memory... So I suggest doing some research. Very > interesting topic too. > > GeoB > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> knock sensor
Has anyone made a knock sensor idiot light setup, something that would give a red light for detonation? thanks jg
KR> vw engines
This guy has some interesting vw heads. Too bad, but says he does not do "aircraft". http://bugpatch.com jg
KR> progress?
I wondered the same thing, works with vw doesn't it? Or is the reason not to because you would loose the higher compression ratio by lifting the cyl? jg > > The only solution was to order a set of stock O-200 pistons > > and downgrade the engine to a stock O-200. :o( > > Wonder if you put some spacers under the cylinders. Maybe cut em out of > copper sheet? But I 'spose ya thought of that already. > > GeoB > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Aluminum Welding Rods
So I got the package for $45 from Weeks, one of the traditional american suppliers. Then Yesterday I found them for $12.99 at: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44810 A slightly smaller package, but you don't need much anyway. The one from weeks comes with a fine Stainless wire brush, this does not. jg
KR> kr tow vehicle
guys, Thanks for the flood of responses. For those interested in the 1989 suburban 350 4x4 bad running mystery the ANSWER IS.. The EGR valve. The unit was stuck open about 1/4 of it's available travel. When pushed it would move then groan on the way back (it's spring loaded). Occasionally while groaning it would get stuck. None were available here on turkey day so I cleaned it with brake cleaner while exercising the unit. Eventually that worked out the stickiness and it does not groan any more. The vehicle now runs perfect. jg
KR> tow vehicle
Not only KR related, but here goes: I have been in need of a tow vehicle for my Kr trailer, my sailboat trailer, cabin cruiser trailer, UH-16 hover craft trailer, The 1958 skagit skimaster trailer, and the box trailer (residential dumpster).. Yes, that IS a pattern.. So, this weekend (off of craigslist) I bought a 1989 4 wheel drive chev suburban powered by a 350. It ran great when I test drove it. I bought it and within 45 minutes on the road it started running rough at idle and dieing at the intersections. I replaced the PCV valve, which made a difference but not the full cure. I tested the coolant temp probes, no faults there. The MAP sensor is suspect because it could cause the rich mix trouble, ( and the codes had a few map sensor faults recorded) but measured ok. (replaced that and it got better). Still not right. It idles perfectly once in a while but then gets rough and dies sometimes at idle. ANY Chev gurus want to chime in on this? KR relation: I need this to haul my KR to the airport! jg
KR> Re: reworking my old KR-2
Sid, It was a defect in the weld along the 90 degree seam between the floor of the tank and the rearmost wall. Once found it was easy to see that while all the rest of the tank was welded very nicely, along the bead on this edge in only this one spot, there was a tiny deviation in the placement of the welding. Just enough to leave a tiny pinhole. Very simple to fix with the Weeks material. I am more worried about the several places on the outside of the same tank that were sealed with something that looks like cured JB weld. These are located where the intenal slosh restricting wall meets the sidewalls of the tenk. No leak there now, but I'll be watching closely. jg > JG, > Do you know what caused the pin hole leak in your aluminum tank? > > Sid Wood > Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 > Mechanicsville, MD, USA > smw...@md.metrocast.net > > >Curiosity here!! Doesn't both of these systems, pvc pipe and vinyl fence > >posts, get brittle with cold weather?? With even minor flexing in the wing > >structure it seems the possibility of cracking could become a factor. > > I would tend to lean toward using aluminum tubing rather than any plastic of > this type. > > Just my .02 worth. > > Ron > > >My 20+ year old aluminum tank (forward of the > instrument panel) had a pin hole in it... > jg > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR>reworking my old KR-2
On Sat, 2008-11-22 at 13:04 -0800, BOB AND MONIQUE wrote: > John > I had some years ago , ran out , good stuff > Where did you get yours ? Aluminum Welding Rods WEEKS DISTRIBUTORS 36 Caroline Drive TAYLORS, SOUTH CAROLINA 29687 (800) 547-9353 www.durafix.com jg > BOB LALONDE BC Canada > > - Original Message ----- > From: "John Gotschall" had a pin hole in it that I "soldered" up with > "aluminum weld rod" from Weeks. , but never imagined > I'd ever be able to solder aluminum so easily > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR>reworking my old KR-2
Has anyone made aluminum tanks in the same size and shape as the original fiberglass method and just foam/glassed into place the aluminum ones? And on that subject, My 20+ year old aluminum tank (forward of the instrument panel) had a pin hole in it that I "soldered" up with "aluminum weld rod" from Weeks. Has anyone constructed an entire tank using this stuff for construction? This stuff sure makes joining aluminum sheet easy since the melting point is around 720 degrees f. The documentation that comes with it indicates it's as strong or stronger than the base metal. I figure if the tank reaches 720 degrees while in use, it's too late to worry about it.. I have years of soldering experience in electronics, but never imagined I'd ever be able to solder aluminum so easily ! jg On Fri, 2008-11-21 at 20:51 -0800, Ronald Wright wrote: > Curiosity here!! Doesn't both of these systems, pvc pipe and vinyl fence > posts, get brittle with cold weather?? With even minor flexing in the wing > structure it seems the possibility of cracking could become a factor. > > I would tend to lean toward using aluminum tubing rather than any plastic of > this type. > > Just my .02 worth. > > Ron
KR> Grease on Wood
Oily wood... I was once gifted an RC airplane, called an astro hog. This astro hog had years and years of flight time on it. It was very well constructed, but after years of flying, the wood at the firewall, foredeck and bottom was soaked through with caster and synthetic oils from the model airplane fuel. I needed to dry that wood out and epoxy had to stick to it, in order to replace the firewall. I used K2R (not KR2) spot lifter. Every day for 2 weeks I'd apply the spot lifter, every night, scrap it off and reapply. Afer two weeks, I was able to install a new firewall to that (once) oil soaked fuselage, allowing me to install the new (twice max recommended power) german engine I had in surplus. worked great, lotsa poser too. Unfortunately the plane was lost when the ailerons responded to uncommanded input (on short final) from a defective potentiometer in the RC handset. The firewall never let go of what was at one time oil soaked wood. jg
KR> reworking my old KR-2
Now for the fuel tanks.. My engine and panel for N611GB are complete enough to start work on the 20 years of hangar rash and airframe issues. I have a few wing tank questions.. The notes that came with my plane indicate one wing tank leaks. I don't know what material was used to make them, epoxy, vinylester, etc. The tanks were abandonded by previous owners as the plumbing is missing. At least one threaded wing fuel cap is missing. I was thinking of cutting open the bottom of the wing and taking the tank bottom out. Then laying up 1 or two layers of light glass and vinyl ester resin inside the existing tank top and sides. At the same time replacing the filler necks, caps, vents, etc. Then laying up a vinylester flat sheet, again 2 layers of bid on something it can be removed from (suggestions? wax paper??) and later attaching the cured flat to the tank as a bottom plate (with flox?). Then foaming into place a bottom sheet of foam, sand to the shape of the wing then glass over and refinish the bottom of the wings. Can anyone point to a site outlining a re-work of wing tanks? Modern material on old glass? Thanks John Gotschall N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> kr on craigslist
http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/rvs/917560607.html jg
KR> first engine run
Last week was the first 2180 type 1 turbo run. This week was the second. For those of you who have not had your first engine run yet I'll share my experience. Last week: Pull the top set of spark plugs, crack open one of the fittings feeding oil to the turbo charger and crank the engine over checking for oil pressure. crank. crank. crank. crank. No oil pressure. Lift the tailwheel and make the top longerons level. crank. crank. crank. No oil pressure. Remove the oil return line from the turbo to the intake on the oil pump, squirt oil into the pump to prime it. Reinstall the return line. crank.crank.crank. No oil pressure. Remove the turbo oil return line from the turbo housing and reorient it so it stands almost straight up, still connected at the oil pump end. Pour oil into the open line until there is (in the vertical tube) almost two feet of vertical oil going into the inlet on the oil pump. Observe the slightly cracked open oil line going to the turbo, looking for pressure there. crank, crank, crank,crank. No oil pressure. What's that on the floor? A huge puddle of oil from the opening on the bottom of the turbo housing where the line that is now vertical used to be. I guess that means it's pushing oil now. Clean up the oil from the floor. check the oil level (again), add some. Reinstall the turbo oil return line. crank crank crank, got pressure now. Reinstall the spark plugs. Remove the alligator clip wire that was grounding the p-lead terminal of the mag, and install the lead from the mag switch, tighten the nut. Everything ready! ok! Put gas in the tank, bleed the air out of the fuel lines. What's that smell? The bottom of the fuel tank is wet with fuel. No time to to fix it now, pull the tank out, replace it with a 1 gallon gas can rigged with a valve and fitting. Pull the airplane trailer into the street, get help to unload the plane. Unload the plane and tie the tail wheel to the basketball hoop post at the end of the culdesac. Crack the fitting for the gas line at the fuel primer nozzle on the intake manifold, pump the primer until some gas comes out. ok. Retighten the fitting, one last check that everything looks good, and hop in the plane, pump the primer. hmm the primer seems to only have pressure at the last 1/4 of it's inward stroke. Does not matter, it'll do (lots of guys don't even have a primer). Master on, EIS on, Ignition on, "Clear Prop", mixture full rich, throttle at 1/4, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank.crank. Hmm.. no fire. But I can smell fuel. This airplane has a key switch that goes (clockwise) Off, (Ign+Mag), Mag only, Start w/mag. It starts only with the mag, then I can add the second ignition system by turning the key one position towards off. I decide I must investigate. I reach for the key and turn it towards off, one click to the (Ign+Mag) position, then one more to the "off" position: *** BLAMO *** A BALL OF FIRE comes out of the exhaust! Woah! I knew right away that turning off the energized ignition system caused it to fire at least one spark plug, if not all 4 of them. The prop turned a half turn. Hmm.. the mag is not working I surmised. I disassembled the mag p lead wiring from the key switch and started ohming out the wires looking for the trouble: must be grounded somewhere. Nothing wrong at the switch, disconnecting the EIS tach lead had no effect. Finally, a close investigation of the mag itself showed that the ring terminal had grounded itself to the case of the mag. Bend the terminal away from the mag case, reassemble all the wiring that was disassembled for troubleshooting. It should fire now. Hop in the plane, "clear prop" and crank, crank, vrOOOMMM! Check the tach connected to the ignition system, reads near zero (that does not work), flip through the EIS pages for oil pressure, 47 lbs (good!), eis tach works! Batt voltage reported by the eis indicates no charge from the alternator. OK, got engine run, runs on ign and mag either or both ok, oil pressure ok, full power run up won't develop turbo boost. Max manifold pressure is 28" mercury. max rpm about 2700. NOT what I was hoping for, idle adjustment is WAY off, but runs smooth. The used turbocharger throws black oily chunks onto the top of the wing (dirty mess). Enough for one day, back to work for a week... weeks over time to try again! Drain aluminum fuel tank, run a vaccuum cleaner blower forcing air into the tank to dry it out, 4 hours later still has fuel in it. Give up on getting tank dry. Instead turn the tank upside down, fill opening down. Fill three kitchen size garbage bags with helium/argon gas mix from mig welder, pinch the bag closed, put the pinched closed end of the bag in the fuel fill opening and fill the tank with helium from underneath. 3 bags of helium in the tank, go ahead and weld the pinhole with fuel dripping and vapor in the tank, the helium stops combustion. Didja see that smoke come
KR> first engine run video
Guys, I found that most windoze users could not view the entire quicktime video which shows two engine starts. So I reprocessed the quicktime video into an MP4, My brother says he can see the whole thing now on his windoze computer. http://www.mykr2.com/test.mp4 jg >
KR> First engine run up
Today N611GB ran her new motor for the first time, a short video online at: http://www.mykr2.com/ I left the carb mixture at cutoff, and ran it from the primer first just to see how it would go, then opened up the fuel mixture and ran it. Runs good, a few bugs to work out.. YeeHaw! jg
KR> Flying milkstools and idiots
I haven't seen any mention of it, so I'll mention it: For those of us who live near alot of water, retracts are best for a water landing, or perhaps landing on frozen cornfields (john S. did that), probably for a muddy field too. jg N611GB Puyallup WA
KR> indexing the prop on a vw
I searched around the net and could not find anything on prop indexing for my GPAS 2180. Reading mark's website it said vertical prop with #1 TDC, but that's a corvair. Looking at doing that on my vw, it would make hand propping hard if the spark comes at that position (my slick mag has an impulse coupling). I ended up putting the prop hoirizontal at #1 TDC thinking that while hand propping I'd rather have it fire half way down the swing. Maybe 4 or 5 oclock blade at #1 TDC would be better. The plane has an electric starter, but should be able to be hand propped. The other issue is dead stick landings, the prop needs to be horizontal then. Does the vw tend to stop in any particular position while gliding? Any ideas? jg
KR> This is hard to believe
this is probably where they go the idea.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-qTjuBRD6M jg
KR> This is hard to believe
I saw this exact same thing done with an RC aircraft in a youtube a while back jg On Thu, 2008-10-30 at 19:01 -0400, Dan Heath wrote: > > (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ)
KR> winter storage
I live in a rain forest. It rains all the time from November to April. (pretty much). My kr lives in a box tralier, and last winter I saw corrosion growing on the outside of my new motor. It was then filled with oil, sprayed with oil, and the starter run to fill the oil passages. I put two light bulbs under and a sleeping bag over it I just bought a dehumidifier (similar technology to an airconditioner) for the trailer so this time any dryness level wanted in the trailer can be had (so long as the temperature stays above 41 F). Question is this: Is there such a thing as TOO dry? IF your KR were in a big box, how dry would you want it? jg
KR> camera strobes
it looks like the 555 timer sets the time base for voltage "stepup coil". Some call this thing a kickback regulator. The cool thing about those is the same circuit can develop any voltage either above or below the supply voltage. it looks like trigger timing is adjustable, but no mention of how adjustable (the range is unknown, and no, I did not even try to calculate it). this one is the better one so far due to the circuit board layout is done already (THAT is the BIG timesaver).. jg On Mon, 2008-10-27 at 20:23 -0700, George Bearden wrote: > Fella last week posted the links to some DIY stuff, I looked em all over. > One (IIRC) ran on 12v and had an adjustable frequency. Didja guys see that? > I haven't priced a commercial unit but this one looked very do-able. I read > the description and schematic, but that was 'then'. It has a 555 timer chip > in it, and I saw an adjustable pot, so I am thinking it is an adjustable > rate. > > http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Strobe/Strobe.htm > > GeoB > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> camera strobes
Not so when charging a cap to oh say 400 or 500 volts from a 12v power supply through a transformer being switched by a transistor. Charge time then depends on the current capacity of the transistor, inductor & rectifier, etc. (assuming no other current controlling factors are present).. Ever heard that little "whistle" or "whining" sound the strobe circuit makes before it will fire? that's the sound of the transformer being switched by the transistor.. in order to make the higher voltage to charge the cap. As the pitch of the sound changes the charge rate changes with it. Not all caps are charged via a fixed resistance. jg On Mon, 2008-10-27 at 14:05 +, erik.kl...@matrixdginc.com wrote: > The time to charge a capacitor is given by the RC time constant.
KR> camera strobes
What aluminum golf ball technique? jg On Tue, 2008-10-28 at 01:31 +1100, Aviation Interests wrote: > I would have liked to find a Fresnel lens > to improve further, then I heard of the "aluminum golf ball" technique, but > I never found time to try that. > > Serge Vidal > Melbourne, Australia
KR> camera strobes
Changing the flash rate may not be easy. often the flash rate is simply the amount of time it takes to charge the capacitor. If you reduce the capacitor size, it will speed up but then there is less energy available for the flash. Changing the charge current (to charge the existing capacitor faster) would require a redesign of the inductor and it's switching circuit, kind of a big job (unless you like to spend many hours winding transformers). Better to find another one with the correct flash rate already available. jg On Mon, 2008-10-27 at 12:24 +, joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com wrote: > I remember hearing about the camera strobe a few years ago and I had done > some testing of my own on another type of strobe. I had taken a fire alarm > system out of a building and it had stand alone strobes that were wall > mounted (simplex was the brand) they operated on 12 v and were self > contained. I hooked one up in the garage and left it run steady for over a > month and it never missed a beat. They are small and light and would only > need the power source from the plane, the strobe pack would be at the wing > tip and as far away from the radios as possible. The down side and the reason > I did not us that was that they flashed on about a 5 second cycle, I thought > that was to long and would have to use 2 on each tip to get the required > flash time. I know that Steve Makish works in the industry and may have the > knowledge to make something like this work. I have them laying aroound > somewhere yet if anyone wants to persue it. Just fuel for thought for the > experimenters out there. > Joe Horton > > _ > Find success and happiness with drug and alcohol rehabilitation. Click now. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nCeL11Wc4dmI0ixb4Pk26hLPmdaZmgGPfipkYT6raAd6Rji/?count=1234567890 > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> another building marathon
20 more hours this weekend.. Last week it was finalizing the carb/intake/exhaust paths. This week it was all new fuel lines/fittings, wired up all the remaining efis stuff. Installed the fuel primer pump, routed the primer tubing, and finalized all those fittings (incl silver brazing the last bits of it). Refitted the gascolater with all new seals/gaskets, fittings, o-ring, & hose. New gascolater mount fab & install. Found a yellow jacket (bee) wintering in one of the fuel elbows. New fuel shutoff valve, fuel sight guage (plastic tubing). Fab and install new tank screen. Changed the shutoff valve position so that it also shuts off the bottom of the fuel guage tubing. Discovered I may not be able to hook up the fuel lines to the tank, may have to hire the 140lb neighbor's kid to climb under there and tighten the last flare nuts. Hooked up the manifold pressure guage and the manifold pressure sensor for efis. Trial fitted the carb heat stove (doubles as a heat shield). fitted a temp probe for carb temp in the revmaster by carving some material very near the fuel jet & needle opening in a spot that is under the edge of the rubber coupling hose to the intake manifold. As close to that cold atomizing fuel as I can get without being in the air/fuel mix itself. This kr2 has the wings off, and I have not weighed it yet but seems nose heavey. Sitting on the original stock retracts, I only have to add maybe 10 or 15 lbs to the nose (if that much) to raise the tailwheel off the ground. I am SO close to being able to fire this thing up! jg N611GB Puyallup, WA
KR> 20 hours work done this weekend.
ok, THAT was marathon plane building! Everything from finalizing the carb mounting, intake & exhaust manifolds final fitting, wiring the entire instrument panel, installation of said panel, and hooking up a variety of temp and pressure sensors. It was very cool having the panel all powered up and listening to local traffic on the radio while wiring up the last bits forward of the firewall. Checking the eIs temp sensors.. it was cool seeing them respond. I have a questrion tho.. Ya know those spark plug mounted temp sensors for the EIS?? Steve Bennett told me that they might be better placed under a head bolt (to get an average reading rather than peak, and less wear when changing out the spark plugs). I prefer them under the plug (I want peak temps displayed) but it looks like I have to router (gouge) out some metal from the head near the plug recess to make room for the device. If not, it looks like the device will be sheared off when tightening the plug. Should I remove the compression washer that came with the spark plug? When gouging out a space for the temp sensor to exit alongside the plug, where to make the cut? 12:00, 6:00, 9:00?? Is it different on each cylinder? Will the head(s) do something bad like crack under load? Itsa 2180 great planes motor with dual ignition. thanks jg N611GB Puyallup WA p.s. I bought used intake manifolds and today cleaned them out before their final mounting and WOW, what a load of dirt was in them! All coating the interior walls. Good grief, if that's what happens from not running an air filter, I am really glad I am running one..
KR> eBay Motors: DRAWINGS of small double plane KR2 (???? ???????? KR2) (item 320310990235 end time Oct-22-08 12:50:34 PDT)
I read it and reported it also. can't hurt to let them know more than a few people noticed. jg On Wed, 2008-10-15 at 22:20 -0400, Randy Powell wrote: > This listing on Ebay has been reported to Ebay as the sole intellectual > property of Rand Robinson. It is just plain wrong . > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Aviation-Parts-Gear__DRAWINGS-of-small-double-plane-KR2-KR2_W0QQitemZ320310990235QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadnZAviationQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20GearQQddiZ2811QQadiZ2877QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320310990235&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A10%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> engine dies after takeoff w/ram air
I read some posts about a few planes that went down after takeoff, immediately after adding ram air to an otherwise working setup. A few mentioned that they thought the fuel mixture leaned out sometime after reaching 100+ mph indicated. While working on my kr and thinking about these power loss problems, it occured to me that the pressure problem might happen to a float or non-float carb. Is it possible that the ram air pressure is sufficient to pressurize the carb to the point that the fuel gets pushed back into the tank (non-float) or air could push it's way through the main jet and into the float bowl (float type)? In the event the ram air actually pressurizes the carbureator wouldn't it then be necessary to have equalizing pressure applied to pretty much the entire fuel system? Suppose you pressure equalized the float bowl, only to learn that there is sufficient pressure in the bowl to keep new fuel from entering the bowl? jg
