KR> Wankel Rotary

[Timothy Witmer]

Doran I have complete built by great planes vw engine ..1/2 hour from
nappanee. Contact timothywit06 at Gmail.com
On Aug 26, 2016 9:14 AM, "Doran Jaffas via KRnet" 
wrote:

> Thanks. I am going to try and get down to Nappanee Indiana this morning to
> pick up a Volkswagen engine. I called Great Plains and they have the
> accessories for the conversion for around $2,000. Something I will take my
> time building over the next 2 or 3 months.
> On Aug 26, 2016 9:11 AM, "Virgil N. Salisbury via KRnet" <
> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
> >
> > Regular Rotary is heavy. Need a single rotor, Virg
> >
> >
> > On 8/25/2016 4:40 PM, Doran Jaffas via KRnet wrote:
> >
> >> Has there been a successful installation of a Wankel rotary in a KR2? I
> >> have a chance to pick one up that came out of an airplane but I wanted
> to
> >> check hete first. No turbo on this one.
> >>  Thanks.
> >>   Doran
> >>   1983 KR2 restoration
> >> ___
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> >>
> >>
> >
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KR> They don't have varnish

[Timothy Witmer]

Epoxy soaked glass is great !!! Glass gives it all strength it needs. But
epoxy alone is somewhat brittle &Canot be reduced other than acetone.  It
looses all its properties. Maximum water resistance is not achieved with
epoxy alone. Its always mixed with another agent ( like paint )  best of
both worlds 
On Jan 1, 2014 11:15 AM, "Mark Langford"  wrote:

> Timothy Witmer wrote:
>
>  Or all the boats would SINK !!!  SPAR VARNISH OR POLYURETHANE  GUYS !
>> SINK OR
>> SWIM ..OTHERWISE !!!
>>
>
> Hmmm, we've been coating KR wooden structure with epoxy-soaked glass, and
> coating the insides with epoxy for years, but I guess they were all wrong,
> and all those KRs that have been flying for 40 years are lucky to have
> survived.  I suppose I'll just torch this one, and build a new one using
> spar varnish instead!  I sure am glad I was enlightened before I flew this
> dangerous thing...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
>
>
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KR> They don't have varnish

[Timothy Witmer]

Always coat textured ( auto trunk spray) with a clear(aerosol ok )  cause
almost all trunk spray is WATER Soluable .  Make sure u wait 48 hrs before
clear coating to let paint dry completly 
On Jan 1, 2014 10:44 AM, "Larry&Sallie Flesner" 
wrote:

>
>  N891JF had no epoxy, urethane, or varnish of any kind inside the cabin.
>>
> 
>
> I finished the inside of my "boat' with grey paint ( spray can)
> http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092590.jpg
>
> and then added a light coat of the "textured" paint in the cockpit area.
> http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092591.jpg
>
> Follow directions on the "textured" paint can or you can end up with a
> mess.  Don't ask me how I know. :-)
>
> KR's are not airplanes that can be left to set out in weather.  The MUST
> be hangared.  The only real moisture problem they should be exposed to
> would be an unheated hangar in the spring when the cold cement floor
> condenses moisture from warm, damp, spring air.  That can really get nasty.
>  I've seen water on the bottom surfaces of the Tripacer that looked like a
> pitcher of iced tea in the summertime.  If heat is not available,  having
> several fans running to keep the air circulating can help considerably.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
> ___
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KR> They don't have varnish

[Timothy Witmer]

Lacquer thinner  NO   Acetone yes but very very little. !!   After
working in the fibergass Industry for decades i can tell u fibergass resin
is the next worst thing besides latex paint to coat wood !!!  Or all the
boats would SINK !!!  SPAR VARNISH OR POLYURETHANE  GUYS !  SINK OR
SWIM ..OTHERWISE !!!
On Jan 1, 2014 9:46 AM, "Mark Langford"  wrote:

> This has been a great conversation, and we've probably all learned
> something from it.  I'm the last guy to argue that our cool little
> creations don't deserve anything but the best, but there's a concept called
> "close enough for KR work", and it involves not going way over the top to
> get things done, either in the money department or the effort (and time)
> department.  Before I spent a lot for the top-of-the-line spar varnish for
> the inside of my airplane, I'd consider the laminating epoxy that I already
> have on hand.
>
> N891JF had no epoxy, urethane, or varnish of any kind inside the cabin.  I
> guess the assumption was that it was going to live in a hangar so it
> wouldn't be a problem, or maybe it was a weight concern.  Since I have it
> stripped down to nothing but wood inside, I figure it's a great time to
> coat it with something, especially since I've seen N56ML with large ponds
> of water in the back due to thunderstorms at OSH and SnF.  So I ran over
> all the bare wood with a palm sander, vacuumed it, and mixed up about 4
> ounces of epoxy.  I thinned it a little with lacquer thinner and applied
> one good coat to all the wood surfaces, plywood and spruce, in the cabin,
> from the backside of the firewall up to the seat back.  That's all sides,
> floor, and spars.  I figure another 4 ounces will easily cover the rest of
> the fuselage including tail cone area.  So I've used what might be a
> dollar's worth of epoxy, which I had on hand already, and might have thrown
> out in a few years because it had turned brown and worried me.  Great place
> for old epoxy!  I'm sure this is not what you'd want to do for maximum life
> of a boat hull, but for the occasional KR puddle, this is "good enough for
> KR work", and it cost me a half a pound for some long-term insurance. I
> have to admit though, the thing looked perfect in bare wood, over 25 years
> after construction!
>
> When I do the back, I'll do what's recommended in the plans and in general
> wooden aircraft lore, which is drill a 1/8" hole at the aft two corners of
> each floor "compartment" (where the water is going to collect), and then
> epoxy that area and seal the edges of those holes.  This will allow any
> water that collects to drain harmlessly to the outside.  The tri-gear
> strategy is probably the front corners, rather than the aft corners.
>
> Good conversations about any KR building or flying is always construction
> and welcome...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> Cowl - wings

[Timothy Witmer]

Urethane  is available at fabric stores in sheets  . Very cost effective
... 1"" 2"" ect.  Joann fabric etc
On Nov 16, 2013 9:17 PM, "Jeff Scott"  wrote:

> No matter what you use for your fuel tanks, Ethanol is bad news for your
> fuel system.  If your tanks are glass, no matter what kind of resin you
> use, Ethanol will disolve it in fairly short order.  If you're not using
> ethanol, almost any resin will work well.  The tanks in my KR were built
> using Safe-T-Poxy 18 years ago, then sloshed with an alcohol resistant
> sloshing compound.  The tanks in my KR have been in continual service for
> 16 1/2 years now and 1000 hours of flying time with no issues.
>
> I have always used alcohol free Mogas when it was available, and for the
> last year, I have been running a mixture of 80% Mogas and 20% 100LL.  My KR
> is old enough that I even ran a tank or two of 80 Octane red Avgas through
> it before it bacame unavailable.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
>
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Timothy Witmer
> > Sent: 11/16/13 07:01 PM
> > To: KRnet
> > Subject: Re: KR> Vinyl ester for fuel tanks
> >
> > Pure-gas.org/ has hundreds of gas stations by states with pure gas
> >  
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> Vinyl ester for fuel tanks

[Timothy Witmer]

Pure-gas.org/has  hundreds of gas stations by states with pure gas
   
On Nov 16, 2013 8:04 PM, "smwood"  wrote:

KR> Vinyl ester for fuel tanks

[Timothy Witmer]

Pure-gas.org/has  hundreds of gas stations by states with pure gas
   
On Nov 16, 2013 8:04 PM, "smwood"  wrote:

> Vinyl ester has slightly better durability for 100 LL aviation fuel.
>  Epoxy is satisfactory also for 100 LL.  Both resins will dissolve slowly
> in the Ethanol that our enlightened government requires to be added to
> automotive gasoline.  In the presence of water in the Ethanol laced fuel,
> the Ethanol is much more active and will dissolve Vinyl ester quite
> quickly.  (Been there, done that, got the aluminum tanks.)  The water is
> absorbed by the Ethanol that is stored in vented gas station and aircraft
> fuel tanks until it reaches 6% water at saturation.  All the chemistry
> experts I checked with refer to this condition as a super solvent for Vinyl
> ester.
>
> No mechanical filter will separate the dissolved water from the Ethanol.
>
> Rubber components in aircraft fuel systems are also attacked by Ethanol.
> Worst case is the hardening of the tiny rubber tip on the float needle for
> float carburetors.
>
> Recommend that Ethanol automotive fuel not be used in Vinyl ester and
> Epoxy aircraft fuel tanks.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
> 
>
> My M-19 is being constructed using the pink board and AeroPoxy laminating
>
>> resin, but the wet cell wing fuel tanks will use vinylester for fuel
>>> resistance.
>>>
>>> Oscar Zuniga
>>>
>>
>
>
> ___
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KR> Difference Between Polystyrene & Polyurethane | eHow

[Timothy Witmer]

http://www.ehow.com/info_8730934_difference-between-polystyrene-polyurethane.html

KR> New Cowl- Props

[Timothy Witmer]

Wow very interesting history on 3 blade props...!!! On Ebay rite now is a
KR not finished with looks like composite 3 blade prop.. USA ebay under
aviation 4- sale...
On Nov 14, 2013 12:49 AM, "John Martindale" 
wrote:

> Hi Tim
>
> That's interesting history but further reading reveals they were a
> composite
> in flight adjustable hub usually with birch laminated blades. Production
> ceased in Feb 1981 (issue 68) only 18 months later due to hub cracks and
> blade separation and the newsletters prior to that had several up for sale.
>
> There are a number of KRs with Corvair 6 cyl engines turning 3 blade
> composite props (often Warp Drive - mine included) but I don't know of any
> fixed pitch carved wooden three blade props on 4 cyl VWs which is what I
> mistakenly thought you were referring to. Those early newsletters are a
> real
> snap shot in time aren't they?
>
> John Martindale
> 29 Jane Circuit
> Toormina NSW 2452
> Australia
>
> ph:61 2 6658 4767
> m:0403 432179
> email:john_martindale at bigpond.com
> web site: http://john-martindale-kr2.zxq.net
> -----Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Timothy
> Witmer
> Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2013 1:26 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> New Cowl- Props
>
> KR  Newsletter #50  Aug. 1979   Talked about 3 blade update & Ken Rand
> production  of 100  3 blade props to be realeased june that
> yearsnip
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> New Cowl- Props

[Timothy Witmer]

KR  Newsletter #50  Aug. 1979   Talked about 3 blade update & Ken Rand
production  of 100  3 blade props to be realeased june that year
On Nov 13, 2013 9:14 AM, "Virgil N.Salisbury" 
wrote:

>
> Ken had one and it did not work out. He had it mounted
> as a Plaque and gave it away as a Prize, Virg
> ( See pic sent to Larry )
>
>
> On 11/13/2013 2:57 AM, John Martindale wrote:
>
>> Are you sure about that?  Three blade wooden props are a very rare item.
>>
>> John Martindale
>> 29 Jane Circuit
>> Toormina NSW 2452
>> Australia
>>   ph:61 2 6658 4767
>> m:0403 432179
>> email:john_martindale at bigpond.com
>> web site: http://john-martindale-kr2.zxq.net
>> -----Original Message-
>> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Timothy
>> Witmer
>> Sent: Wednesday, 13 November 2013 3:02 AM
>> To: KRnet
>> Subject: Re: KR> New Cowl- Props
>>
>> Props ???   I Have all the early first flight magazine acticles on KR-1  &
>> 2  and they were useing 3 bladed props on VW eng.   Seemed like great take
>> off ( short ) & great top speed so why change  Jus wondering ???
>>
>> ...snip
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> change options
>>
>>
>
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KR> New Cowl- Props

[Timothy Witmer]

Props ???   I Have all the early first flight magazine acticles on KR-1  &
2  and they were useing 3 bladed props on VW eng.   Seemed like great take
off ( short ) & great top speed so why change  Jus wondering ???
On Nov 12, 2013 10:47 AM, "Dan Heath"  wrote:

> I have always used the "ask Ed Sterba" approach to this problem.  I tell
> him what I have and he tells me what prop to use.  It may not be perfect,
> but it won't hurt you and he will always re-pitch it for you at no charge.
>
> Dan Heath
>
> > On Nov 12, 2013, at 8:55 AM, "Patterson, John E Col USAF ANG 183 MSG/CC"
>  wrote:
> >
> > Sid, how did you arrive at a 52x52 prop?  My stock KR-2S (formerly Steve
> > Vitrella's) with a Great Plains-ish VW 2180 has a 54x48 on it, but Steve
> > Bennett recommends a 52x46.  I haven't changed it yet, but I'm curious
> as to
> > the whole prop selection process.  Seems like there are a bunch of
> options
> > out there.
> >
> > John Patterson
> > N808BS
> > Jacksonville, IL
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Sid Wood
> > Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 7:27 PM
> > To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> > Subject: KR> New Cowl
> >
> > Still sanding the Styrofoam to make a plug mold for a new cowl on my
> > tri-gear KR-2.  Driven by the need for speed, my aerodynamics 101 says to
> > hide everything that sticks out from the hurricane/typhoon force winds
> > created by the Great Plains 2180 VW and 52X52 Sterba prop.  So, starting
> > with a clean sheet of 2-inch, 6-pound foam from Lowes, about 2/3 got hot
> > melt glued on the engine and firewall.  Now about 1/3 of that is getting
> > chopped, sawed and sanded off.  The plug is emerging.  To bad the plug
> will
> > get scrapped when the fiber-glassing is done.
> > The reason for this artistic exercise is: Moved the engine two inches
> > forward for better CG.  Added a Revmaster oil cooler, fuel pump and oil
> > filter.  So the old RR cowl does not fit.
> > Did I mention how much I loved sanding - NOT!
> >
> > Sid Wood
> > Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> > Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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KR> Surface temps & paint

[Timothy Witmer]

Very old Rand Robinson construction plans .  Full page enclosed...
On Nov 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Mark Langford"  wrote:
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KR> Surface temps & paint

[Timothy Witmer]

Enclosed find the graph chart for aviation paint colors & surface temps.
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KR> Gathering

[Timothy Witmer]

Planes planes planes all over the place with tables full of parts &  guys
talking & drooolin aviation & thats jus for STARTS 
On Oct 5, 2013 7:35 AM, "Mark Jones"  wrote:

> Can anybody in MT Vernon give us no shows an update as to what is going on
> there. Come on, make us feel bad for not being there.
>
> Jones
>
>
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Stevens Point, WI
> E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
> Web: www.flykr2s.com
> ___
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>

KR> gathering forum idea

[Timothy Witmer]

Jus my 2 cents worth but bodyman &  painter 25 yrs. Have more cars &
motorcycles awards  than i can count. Will answer any ??? U may have.
Goin to attend my 1 st. KR gathering as mine is almost done .. Tim Witmer
email  timothywit06 at gmail.com
On Sep 26, 2013 10:35 AM, "Joe. E. Wallace"  wrote:

> Jeff
>
> I am building a different airplane, but have a deep interest in the paint
> booth if you have directions or picts I would be happy to purchase same
> and appreciative of your time.  I will not be at the forum, but wish I
> could.
>
> Joe. E. Wallace
> jwallacep51 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2013, at 1:40 PM, Jeff York  wrote:
>
> > Larry,
> >
> > I know its last minute but last night while working in my shop, I had an
> idea.
> >
> > Many have commented on my KR2 paint job and I have been fortunate to win
> a few awards with it and other projects. Dan Heath pointed out to me that
> it had a lot to do with my paint jobs.
> >
> > So, I thought, if it would benefit the group, I would be happy to put on
> a forum on painting a KR/airplane.
> >
>
> ___
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KR> Anybody ever used these?

[Timothy Witmer]

Those pumps are the best ever !!! Originally made by BENDIX for aviation &
Later car & truck use. My Dad worked for Bendix & i used those pumps on all
kind of projects .   Bendix was # 1  in aviation parts forever...
On Sep 19, 2013 11:22 AM, "Randy Powell"  wrote:

> This is the same pump used on my Piper Cherokee,   Mine has been running
> since 1969 and 4000 hours.   Works well.
>
> Sent from my Ipad
> Randy Powell
> Wachapreague Va 23480
>
>
> On Sep 19, 2013, at 9:03 AM, "Jeff Scott"  wrote:
>
> > This appears to be the same pump used by Piper in the Tomahawk and
> several other low wing models.  The ones used by Piper are a rattle pump
> design, but include a very fine mesh re-useable fuel screen under the 1/3
> turn cap at what is the left end in the picture. (As mounted in the Pipers,
> the filter screen is on the bottom).  The filter in the pump is larger
> capacity and finer mesh than the screen in the carb, so will prevent
> contamination of the final filter in the carb inlet.  The positive anti
> backflow valve would be a nice plus if you need it as the other facet
> rattle pumps will backflow if they are left with a few inches head of
> pressure on them.
> >
> > The specs say this pump weights 32 oz, so at 2# isn't significanlty
> heavier than the Facet rattle pumps most of us use in our KRs.  If it
> better fits your application, it is a good pump.
> >
> > -Jeff Scott
> > Los Alamos, NM
> >
> >
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: Dan Heath
> >> Sent: 09/19/13 03:51 AM
> >> To: 'KRnet', 'CorvAircraft'
> >> Subject: KR> Anybody ever used these?
> >>
> >> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click
> on
> >> the pics
> >>
> >> See you Oct. 4 and 5, 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
> >>
> >> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> >
> >
> > ___
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