KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, hope your weight and balance is also good.


On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are some photos of my new cowl at final fit check today before
> painting.
> Lower cowl has a closure fairing for the nose gear strut and a gascolator
> access door.  Upper cowl has an oil service access door.
> Theoretically, could fly now, but will go for some paint and decals.
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/1741855090535aecddd270f.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/150415788535aecddd4e18.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Dan Heath]

You do good work Sid.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-



 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/1741855090535aecddd270f.jpg

 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/150415788535aecddd4e18.jpg

 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

KR> Cowl construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the top and bottom cowl for fit check on the
> firewall. The old air duct for left cylinder bank cooling is peaking
> through the left air intake opening.  Will make an adapter for the front
> end and reuse the fiberglass engine cooling ducts.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50792709452f2dd354a5ef.jpg
>
> Still have to cut an oil service door for preflight access and bond
> captive stop nuts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the top and bottom cowl for fit check on the firewall. 
The old air duct for left cylinder bank cooling is peaking through the left 
air intake opening.  Will make an adapter for the front end and reuse the 
fiberglass engine cooling ducts.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50792709452f2dd354a5ef.jpg

Still have to cut an oil service door for preflight access and bond captive 
stop nuts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl construction

[Dan Heath]

Well, you have to remove the oil drain cover before you split the case, no
matter what.  You will really like this remote drain.  Any VW conversion can
use it, it does not have to be a Revmaster.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics?

Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC




-Original Message-

Also installed the Revmaster oil side drain today and found out what the big
grooves on the bottom side of the oil pan are for.  Actually they allow a
socket wrench access to the case bolt nuts.

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

OAT is 14 degrees F; shop is 68 degrees F and I am laying up fiberglass. 
The plan is working, so far so good.  Also installed the Revmaster oil side 
drain today and found out what the big grooves on the bottom side of the oil 
pan are for.  Actually they allow a socket wrench access to the case bolt 
nuts.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/98652666952e9bb01c1ffa.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here are three pictures showing stages of cowl construction for my KR-2. 
The first picture shows removing the peal ply prior to sanding the edges 
after adding one BID  to the inside of the top and bottom cowl to stiffen 
the pieces.  Second picture shows the blue marking for the future holes for 
screw fasteners.  Third picture shows the top and bottom cowl held together 
with clamps, duct tape, cleco's, ratchet straps and DNA samples.  Alignment 
duplicates the 3/32-inch saw kerf gap between the top and bottom cowl so 
that the end product will still fit on the firewall.   Six BID on the bottom 
cowl edge will create a joggle for mounting hardware.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/169414158952e99c993947d.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/17870480052e99c993bb90.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/45218438152e99d19c1ff8.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 5:33 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are two pictures showing removal of the Styrofoam plug from the cowl
> shell using a Dremel oscillatory tool with a scraper blade.
> Amazing how the foam increases in volume as chip and chunks.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/76336265152d5df7073dfa.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/144869089252d5df7076508.jpg
>
> Next after some more prep, will put another layer of glass inside the
> shell and 4 layers to support the edges and the fastening hardware.  Then
> on to construction for the cooling ducts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the top cowl newly cut from the bottom cowl.  Not quite 
like birthing a baby, but you get the idea.  Have not seen that VW for a 
while.  Still lots more to go.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/139262206252ce090a5b74d.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Epoxy reducer sounds good, Sid. Thanks, Larry


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:43 PM, smwood  wrote:

> Larry,
> Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro
> slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that
> thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some
> left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here:
> Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I
> finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my
> KR-2.
> Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft
> Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl
> Isobutyl Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have
> ventilation. Lots of fumes here.
> To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener,
> then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread
> dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring
> stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few
> more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer
> gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until
> the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need
> lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
> After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands
> very easily.
> Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in
> the mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy
> tends to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.
>
> Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy
> that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin
> the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates
> quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry
> quickly. On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and
> bottom, gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less
> Reducer. A rotisserie would be handy for this application.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>  --
>> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly
>> easily?
>> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
>>>
>>>  
>
>
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>>
>>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>>
>>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>>
>>> Sid Wood
>>> >>
>>>
>>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

I was asked off-line how I located where to cut the air inlets after 
glassing the foam plug.

I had put holes in the foam at each corner of the prospective inlet and
filled these holes with micro during the filling and sanding of the foam.
After the fiberglass had set, the white micro spots were visible under the
fiberglass.  Marked lines on the fiberglass with a wet erase Sharpie and cut
with a Dremel plastic cutting wheel.  Just to hedge the bet, I cut about
3/16" inside the lines.  Ripped off the cut fiberglass rectangle; hogged out
the foam from the center and filed to the final shape after spotting the
duct behind the nose bowl foam.

I put the micro on the nose bowl fiberglass after cutting the air inlets.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>> 

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

Larry,
Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro 
slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that 
thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some 
left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here: 
Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I 
finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my 
KR-2.
Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft 
Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl Isobutyl 
Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have ventilation. 
Lots of fumes here.
To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener, 
then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread 
dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring 
stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few 
more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer 
gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until 
the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need 
lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands very 
easily.
Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in the 
mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy tends 
to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.

Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy 
that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin 
the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates 
quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry quickly. 
On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and bottom, 
gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less Reducer. 
A rotisserie would be handy for this application.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly 
> easily?
> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
 
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>
>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>
>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>
>> Sid Wood
>> >>

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the new cowl plug mold ready for fiberglass.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/80076407452c35c69baac6.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Adam Tippin]

Thanks for the pics Sid. Keep them coming.
On Dec 13, 2013 12:09 PM, "Sid Wood"  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the plug for the new cowl.  The Styrofoam and micro
> resembles a toasted marshmallow.  Had to remove the nose wheel to get
> access for the power sander on the bottom.  It does look like a tail
> dragger.  Six gallon jugs of water on the horizontal stab keep the tail
> firmly on the deck.  Should have put some plastic over the canopy before
> starting sanding; stuff happens.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/55590932052ab37aa7da25.jpg
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the plug for the new cowl.  The Styrofoam and micro 
resembles a toasted marshmallow.  Had to remove the nose wheel to get access 
for the power sander on the bottom.  It does look like a tail dragger.  Six 
gallon jugs of water on the horizontal stab keep the tail firmly on the 
deck.  Should have put some plastic over the canopy before starting sanding; 
stuff happens.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/55590932052ab37aa7da25.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here of two pictures of the Styrofoam plug sanded to shape and with Micro 
ready to sand some more with the 2180 VW trapped inside.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/212425457152a91bbfbd1f0.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/169508815152a91bbfbf903.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA