KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[Myron (Dan) Freeman]

(snip)>? ? ?Dan, I saw that you were having to really tug on it to get it
engaged.? ?



Yeah, I really do need to make some changes to it, it shouldn't be that hard




(snip)>  My first thought was that you might want to adjust the bolt that
pushes the electrical contacts so it makes contact a bit easier.



Yes, I already tried that but it didn't seem to help at the Gathering but I
ll get to work on it here at home and see if it will help now that I've got
more time and resources.



(snip)> Mine has always worked quite easily.



Yes, It shouldn't be that hard to engage. I'll work on it again tomorrow and
see what I can come up with.



Regards, 

Myron (Dan) Freeman 

Indpls, Ind. 46203-3570 

Home of the Indy 500, 

the World's most famous 

auto race. 

mfreem...@indy.rr.com 

KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[Myron (Dan) Freeman]

(snip)> Dan, First what type e-mail software are you using?



"Incredimail" set to plain text.



(snip)> Your e-mails are very hard to read. Everything is run together.



I don't know? It looks fine on the KRnet that I get back and I have never
got a complaint from anyone about it.



(snip)> My cable runs nearly straight back from the starter to the top
center of the dash.



Well mine is run from the starter over to the left side of the firewall,
around the header tank and back up to the center of the dash. Too many kinks
 It would be better if it were straight on like yours but that's the way it
was when I bought it so I may have to change it.



Regards, 

Myron (Dan) Freeman 

Indpls, Ind. 46203-3570 

Home of the Indy 500, 

the World's most famous 

auto race. 

mfreem...@indy.rr.com 





? ? ? ? ? ? 

KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Dan,

I saw that you were having to really tug on it to get it engaged.  My
first thought was that you might want to adjust the bolt that pushes the
electrical contacts so it makes contact a bit easier.  The starter gear
is probably already fully engaged.  I also noticed that your starter
cable was pulling from one side of the starter pull arm rather than a
clevis pulling straight on the starter arm.  That can also be
problematic.

My starter cable has a "T" handle and is mounted in the lower left panel
with a gentle "S" in the cable before it feeds through the center of the
fire wall.  It has always worked quite easily.

Jeff Scott
N1213W  700+ hours and counting.


On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:28:26 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Myron (Dan)
Freeman"  writes:

> As I found out at the Gathering this year the Continental pull starter
can
> be a real pain to use and I'm considering the possibility of replacing
it
> with an electric solenoid type starter even though my current starter
has
> recently been rebuilt, either that or re-routing the pull cable so it
works
> easier than it currently does if that's possible. It takes a very 
> strong  pull to get it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have that kind of problem with yours?

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KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[Larry Flesner]

:
>As I found out at the Gathering this year the Continental pull 
>starter can be a real pain to use and I'm considering the 
>possibility of replacing it with an electric solenoid type 
>starter  either that or re-routing the pull cable . It takes a very 
>strong pull to get it to work. Myron (Dan) Freeman

+++


Dan,

First, what type e-mail software are you using.  Your e-mails are 
very hard to read.
Everything is run together.

On the starter,  I think the pull type starter, when set up 
correctly,is probably one of
the more reliable starters except of course  one of those new $700 types.

My cable runs nearly straight back from the starter to the top center 
of the dash and
my throttle is on the left sidewall.  That setup works great for me.

Larry Flesner

KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[Myron (Dan) Freeman]

(snip)> For those of you with Continental pull type starters don't damage
the bushing for the plunger on the starter.

Larry Flesner



Hi Larry;



As I found out at the Gathering this year the Continental pull starter can
be a real pain to use and I'm considering the possibility of replacing it
with an electric solenoid type starter even though my current starter has
recently been rebuilt, either that or re-routing the pull cable so it works
easier than it currently does if that's possible. It takes a very strong
pull to get it to work.



Do you have that kind of problem with yours?



Regards, 

Myron (Dan) Freeman 

Indpls, Ind. 46203-3570 

Home of the Indy 500, 

the World's most famous 

auto race. 

mfreem...@indy.rr.com 



? ? ? ? ? ? 

KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[Larry Flesner]

Finally got the starter repaired and 211LF back in the air this
afternoon for a couple of high speed passes and a couple of
"stop and go" landings.

For those of you with Continental pull type starters, don't damage
the bushing for the plunger on the starter as I did when replacing
the "garlock" seal.  They don't make the part any more and you
can't buy a new one anywhere.  I found a used bushing from a
rebuilder for $35.  It really isn't an item that wears.  It's the separate
seal that leaks the oil.  With that repaired and a new O ring in the
quick drain I finally got back in the air after three weeks.  Sure
felt good 

"211LF, you are cleared for a low approach runway 11"

YEE HAAA

Larry Flesner