[lace] Lace Guild Website Update
We have just updated the Lace Guild website with extracts of Lace Magazine for January which include a cryptic lace crossword. As promised, we have also added a page for Seven, the 2007 Lace Guild exhibition and competition, where you can download details of the classes and rules. David (webmaster) and Jean (in Glasgow) -- Lace Guild home page: http://www.laceguild.org (alternative if problems: http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Newbie update
Jenny, your discovery of other lacemaker/s in Kununurra is great news, I do hope you will provide us with continuing updates on your progress to get a group going again! Lacemaking can be a solitary occupation, but company is so rewarding and such a great learning tool. I was all alone here in Cooma but wanted company and to be able to talk about lace, so I started my own group here, and I now have about 8 others to share my lace with. Noelene in Cooma [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~nlafferty/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Halcyon yarn lace kit
I stand corrected. Sorry. Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia USA ~ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [lace] Halcyon yarn lace kit ...No, I would have said that a highly-respected member of the Lacemakers of Maine made recommendations for the kit... ~~ From: Betty Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I believe Jeri Ames of Maine advised Halcyon yarns of Bath, Maine in their > putting the beginner's lacemaking kit together. Dear Lacemakers, - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] CRLG Lace Day
In a message dated 2/28/2005 10:00:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At 2 pm, Ilske Thomsen will give the Berman Lecture titled "At a Glance: Lace in Fashion," to be followed by a reception given by the BMA. This sounds very elegant. What will the food be like? Devon - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Halcyon yarn lace kit
In a message dated 2/28/05 12:33:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I believe Jeri Ames of Maine advised Halcyon yarns of Bath, Maine in their > putting the beginner's lacemaking kit together. So...one knows that kit is > o.k. > > Happy Lacemaking, > Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia USA > Dear Lacemakers, No, I would have said that a highly-respected member of the Lacemakers of Maine made recommendations for the kit. If she wanted to identify herself, that would be her choice. I do not wish to take credit for the generosity of others! Halcyon concentrates on marketing to weavers and knitters. Since I wrote a long article to Arachne about them in the past year or so, I will refrain from repeating here. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace & Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Lace Shops
At 09:02 AM 2/25/05 +0200, Jacqui wrote: >We were also battling to find calico until we went to the Indian shops >(imported fabrics) They have a fabric that we call calico but they call by >another name. Hope this helps. For those in the U.S., unbleached muslin is available for 1.98/yd from Phoenix Textiles/fabric.com. It's of a disappointing quality -- not quite fine enough to make into pillowcases, and nowhere near sleazy enough to make underlinings. But it's a sturdy fabric, and suitable for testing sewing patterns. -- Joy Beeson http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ http://home.earthlink.net/~dbeeson594/ROUGHSEW/ROUGH.HTM http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather) west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. where it can't make up its mind whether it's rain or snow. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] visit to the Netherlands
Dear gentle spiders - I enjoy reading the list very much but don't usually write. Now I'm going to the Netherlands with DH next week where he'll be working March 7-8 in 's-Hertogenbosch, and I'll be on my own during the day while he is occupied. Are there any list members (or non-arachnid lacemakers) living in the area who might like to get together with a visiting lacemaker from the US? Are there any museums with special laces or other points of "lace interest" (shops) in Den Bosch I should try to visit? Or Amsterdam, our arrival and departure point? Many thanks, Shirley in very snowy upstate New York. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] CRLG Lace Day
The Chesapeake Region Lace Guild (CRLG) is pleased to invite everyone to attend our Spring Lace Day to be held Saturday, April 2, at the Baltimore Museum of Art (BMA). The lace day is being held in conjunction with a wonderful new exhibit by the BMA of lace from the Cone Collection. The event is open to the public with admission to the museum, and will showcase CRLG members demonstrating lacemaking and vendors selling lace supplies, both from 11 am to 2 pm. At 2 pm, Ilske Thomsen will give the Berman Lecture titled "At a Glance: Lace in Fashion," to be followed by a reception given by the BMA. For more information, please see the CRLG's website: http://www.crlg.org/lacedaynext.html and the BMA's website: http://artbma.org/exhibitions/upcoming.html Mary [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] CRLG workshops
The Chesapeake Region Lace Guild (CRLG) is sponsoring several workshops, and there is still room for non-CRLG members to join us if you want. Registration information can be found at our website, www.crlg.org, or you may e-mail me for information about where to send your registration, but I will list some details below. 1. April 3-5: Beautiful Curves and Sharp Corners, taught by Ilske Thomsen. This 3-day workshop is being held in Fairfax, VA, from 10 am to 4 pm each day. Students will make several sorts of curves and corners in Torchon lace technique, and decorative corners for different lace types. If there is enough time the students will work a whole piece with lots of Torchon grounds, and they will make Point ground lace corners. This class will help students brush up on their technique and improve an area of lacemaking that many of us have difficulties with, making great-looking corners and curves in our laces. Cost for the workshop is $108 if you are not a member of the CRLG. 2. April 7-9: Chantilly workshops, taught by Ilske Thomsen. This 3-day class is being held in Catonsville, MD, from 10 am to 4 pm each day. The workshop will cover making Chantilly lace, with everyone starting from the beginning to make certain we all have a grasp of the proper techniques involved in making this beautiful lace, and allowing students to progress to more difficult patterns if they have had some experience with Chantilly before. The workshop fee for nonmembers is $108, and there is a $20 fee for purchase of the unboiled silk threads that the guild ordered from Denmark to be used in this class. 3. April 30-May 2: Mechlin workshop, taught by Ulrike Loehr Voelcker. This 3-day class is being held in Olney, MD, from 10 am to 4 pm each day. The workshop will cover the basics of Mechlin lace for beginners, and students with previous Mechlin experience to progress to advanced techniques in this lace. Ulrike writes that this is a lovely lace, and there is nothing to fear either from the lace or from her! Cost for the workshop is $108 for nonmembers. 4. July 15-17: Flanders or Binche workshop, taught by Michael Giusiana. This 3-day class is being held in Catonsville, MD, from 10 am to 4 pm each day. Students may choose to work on either Flanders or Binche lace, and may be at any level of experience with these types of fine Continental laces from complete beginner to more-experienced lacemaker. Cost for the workshop is $108 for nonmembers. You may write to me for more information on any of these workshops. Mary [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] starts, stops and turns class
I am lucky enough to have Susan Wenzel as my lace teacher - it is worth every minute of the 2 hour drive. Saturday she taught the "starts, stops and turns" class and it was wonderful. She will be teaching this class in August at the Denver convention and I highly recommend it for new lacers. Susan has a way of making everything so clear. Christina in Va - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Channer Mat Pricking Raffle - Belated Result!
Gidday all, I've just returned from a very hectic month in Melbourne, and although I drew the above raffle a month ago and sent a message to Arachne, it is only now that I've read all the digests and realised that my message never got through! Anyway there were 21 entries and the winner was Anneke Reijs from The Netherlands. The pricking and accompanying notes are on their way to Anneke - very sorry there was only one to offer you all. Michelle an Aussie living in Suriname glad to be back from Melbourne's weird Feb weather Ian & Chelle Long +597 352505 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Newbie in OZ
Dear Jenny, There is a lace group (or at least a lace contact) in Kununurra, so help may be closer than you realised. Not surprisingly, they aren't on the rotation for the WA monthly lace days (but then neither are Geraldton and Narembeen and they are a lot closer to Perth)! Please e-mail me privately for contact information if you would like it. I've no idea how large or small the group is - I assume they're friendly. (I returned east late last year after 18 months in Perth where the local lacemakers were very welcoming). This seems like a good opportunity to put in some free advertising for this year's AGM - a week of lace workshops, a shopping day, display etc - in beautiful Perth (one of the best kept secrets in Australia). It won't be on the scale of the meetings in the US or Europe, but it's a great chance to network with other Australian lacemakers and learn from a variety of tutors.(And, for those Australian Arachneans from the eastern states, WA is a great place to go on holidays generally). I have picked a pre-AGM wildflower tour already and will book as soon as I get the all-clear after my recent health scare. I am reluctantly conceeding that the Darwin-Broome-Darwin cruise with lots of excursions to shore via Zodiac that I had been planning is probably not a good idea :-( Christine J, Sydney (missing Perth despite living there for such a short time) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Hello to a newbie in Oz
> >> Pricking card >Tamara said >Any gift-box, dis-assembled and covered with transparent, coloured, >plastic film will do just fine Jane said I teach my students to use proper pricking card (glazed manila) and a waterproof pen. I must admit to coming back to proper pricking card. The photocopying of and then covering a pricking with film is very easy to do but I really come unstuck when doing sewings. I use a lazy susan, it might be different with a crochet hook, and almost always end up with the business end stuck in the pin hole and making a mess. Pricking card being so much sturdier makes sewings a lot "cleaner" and easier. This is more important for sectional laces with a lot of sewings. jenny barron Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Newbie update
Hello everyone Hi Jenny Thank you for the warm welcome! I feel like I know so many of you already. I have had a strange day, it seems as if I a destined to succeed at learning bobbin lace making as things seem to be falling into place for me. I rang Torchon House to order a catalogue and John commented that he had sent 6 pillows (note I now know to say pillows, not cushions) to Kununurra a few years ago. So I decided to try to track down if there was once a group here. Thinking hard I rang the secretary of the Agriculture Show (our vet) and she suggested I ring a lady who "knows everyone who does a craft in town" . I rang her and she was one of those who got one of the six pillows! She gave me the name of the woman who used to do the teaching (Alice Cunningham) and said that she believed that Alice would like to get the group active again. I then rang a friend and invited her to learn with me so that I would not be the only beginner and have ended up agreeing to teach her tatting too. I rang Alice and left a message and am now waiting impatiently to hear from her in the hope that I will have a LOCAL teacher. Such a rare opportunity. I am so excited! Now I don' t think I can wait until August and will have to ask Husband Dear if I can get my birthday pressie early It has been a good day! Thank you all. Jenny Brandis Kununurra -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.5.0 - Release Date: 2/25/2005 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Hello to a newbie in Oz
In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Tamara P. Duvall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes >> Should I get a cushion stand? > >What you may need before you need a pillow stand is some kind of >support for the book you're using, so that you can look at it and >continue working. Folding music stands work well and are inexpensive, >though they're a bit wobbly. > I wasn't going to chip in, as everyone else has already done so with some very good advice, but so far everyone seems to have recommended books, boxes, etc for a stand. Some pillows, particularly flat ones, do need raising for the first part of the pattern so that you can see what you are doing, and in the case of Midland bobbins at least, to allow the bobbins to tension the thread. I started off (fifteen or so years ago) with a box, or book, or bobbin case (they do have their uses!), moved to one of the TV tables that you can slant the top of and eventually bought a proper pillow stand - this I use when I'm working at home or out demonstrating. For class, one of my students came up with a brilliant idea (though it may not have been her idea to start with) and made everyone a small bean bag one Christmas. This is a rectangular bag - about 8 by 6 inches, filled (not too full) with the polystyrene beads you buy for stuffing bean bags. Light, portable, sits between pillow and table top, and you can adjust the angle of slope easily. The most important thing is that the table you are working on is the right height - by the time you put a lace pillow, of even 2-3 inch thickness, on top of a standard dining table, you will probably find the surface is too high to work on. There is no reason at all why you can't find a comfortable sofa, put your feet up, put a bean bag or cushion on your lap to provide a slight slope and work with your pillow on your lap. Do make sure your back is well supported, though. I cannot work with my Honiton pillow on my lap - I end up with stomach pains, and this is where the stand holds its own. > >> Divider pins (can I use sewing pins?) > >You can't use sewing pins; divider pins are more the size of corsage >pins, often the size of hat pins. But you won't need them for the first >half a year or so, if ever. They're used to mark sections of large >patterns, hanging big bunches of bobbins out of the way, on non-flat >pillows. I'm wondering if you are getting confused with the terminology? As Tamara explains, divider pins are used to keep stacks of bobbins out of the way - I never use them, they make too large a hole in a polystyrene pillow and that means in time, it will wear out more quickly. For general use, you need a few berry pins (the "glass" headed type) for pinning a pin cushion to your pillow, and your working and cover cloths in place - they need to be moved reasonably frequently, so having the bigger head save your finger nails. (For some reason the ones Ikea sell keep their heads better than the ones sold on circular discs!). For making the lace, you need pins that don't bend too easily, and don't rust. Traditionally these are brass, but brass pins do tarnish, and I have found that they react with the acid in the pricking card to leave turquoise stains on lace if they are left in the lace too long (another reason for only working one piece at a time!). These days, you can get stainless steel pins which are reasonably decent. Sewing pins tend to be a little too thick - and you do need to suit the pin to the type of thread and lace you are making. For torchon, in a 60 crochet cotton, the .65 thickness is fine - most would probably go for either a 30 x .60, (pins are always metric) or 26 x .60. Once you go for the finer laces, you need pins with smaller heads (or they don't sit together so well) and this is when you go down to the 26 x .50 and finer. Make sure that your pricker is of a similar, if not very slightly finer, size to your pins. Metal pin vices tend to be uncomfortable after pricking a large area, but the vice means you can change the size of needle (use a "sharp" or quilter's needle) you are pricking with. If you can get one with a wooden handle you may find it more comfortable to use. > >> Pricking card > >Any gift-box, dis-assembled and covered with transparent, coloured, >plastic film will do just fine This is another point where everyone has different views. The coloured film can be difficult to get (matt is better than shiny) and personally I don't like it. I teach my students to use proper pricking card (glazed manila) and a waterproof pen. Prick through the copy of your pattern into the card, then draw the pattern markings using a pencil. Check that you have copied correctly, and not missed any holes, then go over in waterproof pen (any moisture in the air or your fingers will transfer ordinary ink, even biro, or photocopier toner, onto your thread) and rub out the pencil marks. The pricking card doesn't shed its fibres, and normally the ink doesn't bleed into it, as some packaging card does. You save m
