RE: [lace] Securing prickings
pene piip wrote: Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. === I took a workshop on applique, and the pattern pieces were made of adhesive film (Contact paper). We stored them on a piece of mylar. Another way to store film-edged prickings, since they have lint on them after being on the pillow, is to stick them to more adhesive film (the "right" side, leaving the paper backing in place) or similar material that won't be damaged by something stuck to it. Or back onto the paper backing that that piece of film came off (don't throw it away when you make the pricking. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Securing prickings
If it is paper+contact it is only re-usable a few time so make two copies originally and file the spare photocopy. Jay in Sydney -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of David C COLLYER Sent: Sunday, 11 April 2010 12:25 AM To: pene piip; Arachne Arachne Subject: RE: [lace] Securing prickings At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote: >Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops >that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with >an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge & then stick the contact to the >pricking & the pillow & you don't need any pins. >I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the >pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. >I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. Surely you'd just trim off the extra plastic once you've finished. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] RE: gold plated pins
Brass pins used in the more humid Sydney area do tarnish after a while. Not a problem as they clean easily if soaked for a few minutes in a hot dilute solution of liquid detergent, and vinegar. Rinse and dry well afterwards. No problem, except for the forgotten UFO where the pins were so corroded they could not be pulled out of the pillow block (high density polystyrene) so it had to be discarded. Now I mainly use stainless steel pins. This change, of course, does not help the brass pin makers Jay in Sydney -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of David C COLLYER Sent: Sunday, 11 April 2010 12:27 AM To: viviennewal...@aol.com; lace-c...@arachne.com Cc: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Re: [lace-chat] gold plated pins! > >The people who make many of the pins in the world have been looking for >a long time at the problem of brass pins tarnishing. Vivienne, it's a luxurious idea, but I find my brass pins, many of which are about 15 years old and used over and over, have not tarnished at all. Perhaps it is the constant use which prevents this. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
I do this for a lot of years. I just turn the excess sticky part under. Reinforcement. Christa -- From: "Sue Babbs" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 10:28 AM To: Subject: Fw: [lace] Securing prickings If you want to keep the pricking, just trim off the excess contact paper. Or in the case of the stuff I buy from Walgreen's, you can just peel it off. A little of the inkjet ink comes too, but the pricking would still be useable. Sue Babbs - Original Message - From: "pene piip" I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Arachne get together
Hi Clay, We did look into using a college campus in Illinois and the expenses were still high, but the main problem was getting people from the airport to the colleges. No public transport and just very expensive taxi rides. I like your idea of getting together in the evening but most conventions these days seem to fill the evenings with programs and I doubt anyone could entertain the size of the group in their bedroom. We had 42 at lunch in Rockford. I do remember my first convention in Ann Arbor, MI where our bedroom became a meeting point for people interested in the Princess pillow that my room mate, Diane Williams, took to convention. We ran out of snacks and drinks that night and I had a hard time getting to bed but I was younger then. :-) Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
On Apr 10, 2010, at 10:02 AM, David C COLLYER wrote: Personally I feel that the pricking would not buckle so much if it was a thin Manilla-type card, but as mine are always paper with Contact, this is often a problem. I feel it has something to do with large areas of point ground, rather than the areas of half or whole stitch, and may well be the angle of the pins in those areas. David Hi David, Oy, I hate lifting prickings -- I've had it happen with thin pricking card, thick pricking card, and Contact!!! Aaargh! Yes, I agree that large areas of point ground are likely to be a problem and watching the angle of the pins VERY carefully generally sorts it for me. On the other hand, you could always leave out the pins altogether in the point ground. Or if that gives you heartburn, try pinning every other diagonal, or only leaving in 3 or 4 rows at the working edge and pulling the rest. Good Luck! Su, in finally back to normal spring weather Williamsburg, VA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] IOLI conventions - lunch
Hi Janice - I don't get to all of the IOLI conventions... I go every three or four years. And so I don't think my opinion is necessarily as valid as that of someone who is a "regular"! However, regardless of the pricepoint, I think that whatever the food is, in a conference hotel, you're paying far more than it's worth!! (And I don't buy the "service and space excuse... you go to a nice restaurant, you pay for what you eat and get way better service and ambiance!!!) Conference hotels charge those prices because they can get them. I appreciated that the Arachne lunch at Rockford was "only" $20, but when it was cold pizza, I was less than thrilled. But a bigger issue was that the only people I *really* got to meet were those at my table - and this was true at the convention I had attended before Rockford as well So... I suggest this: On a designated evening, perhaps Arachne could have a "happy hour" in someone's room, BYOB with some assorted snacks contributed by those attending; or it could take place in the Bar, where non-alcoholic beverages are also served. I'm happy with that. The best part is that people get to mingle and meet each other. That's the whole point, so invent a way to make the entire time contribute to that. Someone who responded to the IOLI survey (report in the gorgeous new bulletin!) suggested looking into college campuses for venues. I second that motion!!! In the summertime, they're often very accessible, and far less expensive. That's my 2 cents worth!! Clay On 4/10/2010 12:18 PM, Janice Blair wrote: I have chaired an IOLI convention in Rockford where we managed to keep the cost of the Arachne lunch down to $20. I did mention in my last email that the I am aware that the cost covers the room as well as food and service. I am not attacking Portland as I appreciate how much hard work it is to put on a convention of this size and length. I wrote to the next hosts asking them to try to keep the costs down, that is if they are planning on providing Arachne with a meeting place. The Maryland guild did not have it on their agenda and are looking into it. This is the second year we are charged $35 for lunch and I did not want it to be taken as a price that becomes the norm. I also explained that all we required was a room, preferably with a podium for announcements. We do not need a speaker like last year, because we just want to get together in an informal situation and get to know each other better. Just the opportunity to put faces to names. LA would have been impossible to find a restaurant in close proximity of the hotel but we could find a lot less expensive food in their restaurants. How do other Arachnes feel about costs for our get together? Maybe this should go to Chat rather than take up more space on Lace. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org From: "lacel...@verizon.net" Unless you have chaired a large convention, and dealt with a large hotel, you probably don't realize what a meal costs in that environment. Also realize that part of the price is the room cost, as well as the food and the service. Unless the group wishes to change the format of future Arachne meetings to a non-food event, or schedule it outside the hotel, expect the price to be similar in the future.You will not find a fast food price in a commercial hotel setting. Alice in Oregon Host guild member and Display chairman Apr 9, 2010 06:36:23 PM, jbl...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I also wrote to the 2011 and 2012 convention hosts asking them to try to keep the cost of the luncheon down, as I know some people did not attend last year because of the expense. I think our numbers were down in 2009 because the California meals were so expensive. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: [lace-chat] gold plated pins!
Hello Vivienne - I have no problem treating my brass pins when they get tarnished. Then, they're good as new. However, I've also shifted to using primarily stainless pins, because I have less trouble with bending, and also because they come in so many wonderful sizes. As for the gold plating idea, I can tell you this: Gold is a relatively soft metal. When it is used for plating, the tiniest little "compromise" in the plating allows the brass beneath to tarnish, and soon you have flaking plating! I can't wear gold plated jewelry, because the slightest scratch ends up destroying the piece. I also do embroidery and needlepoint, and quite a few years ago, the gold-plated needle was all the rage! Now, I grant you that a single needle moving through lots of stiff fibers gets far more exercise during an embroidery project than the individual pins do in lace. However, it's like putting our pins in a lab for QC: work it, work it, work it does it hold up? And, the answer is clearly no. Before I had finished one (fairly large) project, the gold plating was completely worn away, and I was left with a needle that was indistinguishable from the others in my needle case. Definitely not worth the money, in my opinion, especially when you consider that 250 pins wouldn't get you far in any project!! Clay On 4/10/2010 7:11 AM, viviennewal...@aol.com wrote: Hi all, I would like your views. Though I am a supplier this is not promoting any thing I sell but I think Lace makers need to express an opinion on. The people who make many of the pins in the world have been looking for a long time at the problem of brass pins tarnishing. they tell me they are specially treated but that they know in, their words, 6 months 2 years 5 years they will not be the same. So they are proposing the make a gold plated pin which they claim will stay bright and untarnished for years and years. They say but are not fixed on it yet, the price would be similar to say our Torchon pin but you would get say 250 as opposed to 400. I have told them I don't think British lace makers would pay the differance. But then I thought of the ladies who have to replace their pins so now I don't know. They are a good kind family companya and I don't want them to waste money on some thing that won't sell. What do you think? Vivienne To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
I do this for a lot of years. I just turn the excess sticky part under. Reinforcement. Christa -- From: "Sue Babbs" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 10:28 AM To: Subject: Fw: [lace] Securing prickings If you want to keep the pricking, just trim off the excess contact paper. Or in the case of the stuff I buy from Walgreen's, you can just peel it off. A little of the inkjet ink comes too, but the pricking would still be useable. Sue Babbs - Original Message - From: "pene piip" I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] photos added to webshots
For textile lovers like me, there are now one knitted shawl, one lace fan, and one tapestry to be seen in my album on the Arachne webshots community. Aurelia - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
hm, well - my prickings are paper photocopies with a layer of clear packing tape. You could try the tethers (or moorings - thanks Sally!), they do hold and there is no see-saw pulling on the pricking that would cause a tear. I sew the threads through the pricking with a needle. If there is a concern with tearing, reinforce the point of attachment with tape :) You don't *have* to try it, it is more fiddly than simply placing pins, but it is a different and rather pleasing set-up. On Sat, Apr 10, 2010 at 6:51 AM, David C COLLYER wrote: > Dear Friends, > I should have said when I first wrote this question, that my pricking are > always photocopies or scans covered in Contact. As such, threads like these > would not hold, or would tear the pricking. > > Thanks > David in Ballarat > > > sew >> long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you >> would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking, >> thus tethering the pricking in place. You will have cover cloths over the >> areas (yes?) so that nothing will catch on the tethering threads. >> > > > -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Securing prickings
When I take a pricking off the pillow, I fold the contact behind the pricking. It may have some lint off the pillow on that part and does not seen to stick firmly so it can be unfolded and used again. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] IOLI conventions - lunch
I have chaired an IOLI convention in Rockford where we managed to keep the cost of the Arachne lunch down to $20. I did mention in my last email that the I am aware that the cost covers the room as well as food and service. I am not attacking Portland as I appreciate how much hard work it is to put on a convention of this size and length. I wrote to the next hosts asking them to try to keep the costs down, that is if they are planning on providing Arachne with a meeting place. The Maryland guild did not have it on their agenda and are looking into it. This is the second year we are charged $35 for lunch and I did not want it to be taken as a price that becomes the norm. I also explained that all we required was a room, preferably with a podium for announcements. We do not need a speaker like last year, because we just want to get together in an informal situation and get to know each other better. Just the opportunity to put faces to names. LA would have been impossible to find a restaurant in close proximity of the hotel but we could find a lot less expensive food in their restaurants. How do other Arachnes feel about costs for our get together? Maybe this should go to Chat rather than take up more space on Lace. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org From: "lacel...@verizon.net" Unless you have chaired a large convention, and dealt with a large hotel, you probably don't realize what a meal costs in that environment. Also realize that part of the price is the room cost, as well as the food and the service. Unless the group wishes to change the format of future Arachne meetings to a non-food event, or schedule it outside the hotel, expect the price to be similar in the future.You will not find a fast food price in a commercial hotel setting. Alice in Oregon Host guild member and Display chairman Apr 9, 2010 06:36:23 PM, jbl...@sbcglobal.net wrote: >> >>I also wrote to the 2011 and 2012 convention hosts asking them to try to keep >>the cost of the luncheon down, as I know some people did not attend last year >>because >>of the expense. I think our numbers were down in 2009 because the California >>meals >>were so expensive. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Securing with larger plastic Contact
My piece of plastic has been on the pillow since Sept/October last year and is still in place. I have worked over a yard of lace on the pricking. I have just found a problem on this round where the pricking had a quarter inch cut in it and it is catching the threads. This was my fault for not being more careful when I cut it. The nick in the plastic was probably from when I cut the previous piece off the roll. I did not put any pins in it to hold it but have put plenty of holes in the inch edge from my divider pins. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - Original Message From: David C COLLYER To: Janice Blair ; lace Sent: Sat, April 10, 2010 9:13:56 AM Subject: Securing with larger plastic Contact > I cut my sticky plastic covering about an inch or so wider than the pricking > and place the pricking on the pillow, then lay the sticky plastic over the > top of it, securing the pricking to the pillow. I really like the sound of this idea. But surely if it's a larger piece of Bucks/Toender/Chantilly etc, with hundreds of pins, and which will possibly need to stay in place for a few months, don't you find that the outer edge of the plastic loses its stickiness and comes adrift? I think I would still put a few pins through it at first - just in case. Thanks David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Fw: [lace] Securing prickings
If you want to keep the pricking, just trim off the excess contact paper. Or in the case of the stuff I buy from Walgreen's, you can just peel it off. A little of the inkjet ink comes too, but the pricking would still be useable. Sue Babbs - Original Message - From: "pene piip" I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: [lace-chat] gold plated pins!
The people who make many of the pins in the world have been looking for a long time at the problem of brass pins tarnishing. Vivienne, it's a luxurious idea, but I find my brass pins, many of which are about 15 years old and used over and over, have not tarnished at all. Perhaps it is the constant use which prevents this. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Securing prickings
At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote: Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge & then stick the contact to the pricking & the pillow & you don't need any pins. I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. Surely you'd just trim off the extra plastic once you've finished. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Securing with larger plastic Contact
I cut my sticky plastic covering about an inch or so wider than the pricking and place the pricking on the pillow, then lay the sticky plastic over the top of it, securing the pricking to the pillow. I really like the sound of this idea. But surely if it's a larger piece of Bucks/Toender/Chantilly etc, with hundreds of pins, and which will possibly need to stay in place for a few months, don't you find that the outer edge of the plastic loses its stickiness and comes adrift? I think I would still put a few pins through it at first - just in case. Thanks David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
Dear Liz, I fully understand what you are saying, but would not like to risk damage to one of the last pillows made with horse hair in Australia. Thanks David I would like to share a method that I learned from Robin Lewis Wild. It only works on a straw filled pillow and it does involve the sacrifice of some pins. It also works best if the pins are long. I have found that this method secures the pricking very firmly to the pillow and puts the pin heads so far in to the pillow that my threads never catch on them. Let me see if I can describe it. It requires two pins at each place you secure the pricking. The first is pushed straight through the pricking and into the pillow. Leave about half the pin sticking up out of the pillow. Bend that end at a 90 degree angle (actually I usually bend the pin before I put it in the pillow). So you now have a bent pin with half of it going through the pricking into the pillow and the upper half laying on top of the pillow. The second pin is placed across the first pin at a 90 degree angle. This pin will take a bite out of the pillow (be sure to catch the main part of the pillow and not just the covering), come up across the end of the bent pin and then go back into the pillow again. This is probably a little hard to visualize. I will be happy to try to take a picture of this if someone will talk me through how to get the photo into a place where everyone on arachne can see it. Liz Redford Raleigh, NC, USA David C COLLYER wrote: > Dear Friends, > Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds. > > How do you secure your pricking to the pillow? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
Clay, Ulrike Voelker also says .Instead, we should place a temporary pin off to the side, but toward you, so that the threads must come down in a straighter line before moving off to the side. I have always done that. In fact I use a tall hat pin so that 7 or 8 bobbin holders will still stay around it. I also worked out that this large pin should be at an angle of 45 degrees and about 1" (2.5cm) lower than the working area. Personally I feel that the pricking would not buckle so much if it was a thin Manilla-type card, but as mine are always paper with Contact, this is often a problem. I feel it has something to do with large areas of point ground, rather than the areas of half or whole stitch, and may well be the angle of the pins in those areas. David Clay On 4/9/2010 12:49 PM, Sue Babbs wrote: Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking to the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you have a piece on the pillow for a long time, but then you can pin through the film only, and this pin tends to press in below the level of the pricking Sue Babbs - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
At 02:49 AM 10/04/2010, Sue Babbs wrote: Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking to the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you have a piece on the pillow for a long time, but then you can pin through the film only, and this pin tends to press in below the level of the pricking Now that's an idea I haven't tried, and it sounds like it might work for me. Thanks David - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Securing prickings
Dear Friends, I should have said when I first wrote this question, that my pricking are always photocopies or scans covered in Contact. As such, threads like these would not hold, or would tear the pricking. Thanks David in Ballarat sew long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking, thus tethering the pricking in place. You will have cover cloths over the areas (yes?) so that nothing will catch on the tethering threads. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Fw: Malcolm Fielding's online bobbin shop is now open again
Malcolm Fielding's online bobbin shop is now open again!I have just received the following email from Malcolm Fielding, who makes the most exquisite, turned bobbins I have ever felt! In case someone else is interested, I thought I would forward this to the list. I am just a pleased customer of his, with no other connection to him (other than that we are both English living in foreign countries!) Sue Babbs - Original Message - From: m...@indie-cds.com To: sueba...@comcast.net Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:25 PM Subject: Malcolm Fielding's online bobbin shop is now open again Hello to all my customers! I am pleased to announce that my lace bobbins are back in production and I have a newly updated and re-designed website at www.thelacebobbinshop.com where you can see and order them all. - visit http://www.thelacebobbinshop.com Please visit the website and take a look! I think you will find the site easier to use and more functional. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] gold plated pins!
Vivienne, My pins are used all the time and bend and get replaced before they become unusable through tarnishing. I have been using these kind since 2001 and when they became hard to get at one time I bought some silver type I have two pots of those and have never bothered to use them!!! no I dont know why either, except that I felt they might get confused with my dress making pins. Personally I dont do many really bit pieces, the strip work and smaller pieces I keep pins in for about 1 to 3 inches depending on the width of the piece making sure it is secure but not overdone so I am not forever buying pins. Sue T Hi all, I would like your views. Though I am a supplier this is not promoting any thing I sell but I think Lace makers need to express an opinion on. The people who make many of the pins in the world have been looking for a long time at the problem of brass pins tarnishing. they tell me they are specially treated but that they know in, their words, 6 months 2 years 5 years they will not be the same. So they are proposing the make a gold plated pin which they claim will stay bright and untarnished for years and years. They say but are not fixed on it yet, the price would be similar to say our Torchon pin but you would get say 250 as opposed to 400. I have told them I don't think British lace makers would pay the differance. But then I thought of the ladies who have to replace their pins so now I don't know. They are a good kind family companya and I don't want them to waste money on some thing that won't sell. What do you think? Vivienne - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] gold plated pins!
Hi all, I would like your views. Though I am a supplier this is not promoting any thing I sell but I think Lace makers need to express an opinion on. The people who make many of the pins in the world have been looking for a long time at the problem of brass pins tarnishing. they tell me they are specially treated but that they know in, their words, 6 months 2 years 5 years they will not be the same. So they are proposing the make a gold plated pin which they claim will stay bright and untarnished for years and years. They say but are not fixed on it yet, the price would be similar to say our Torchon pin but you would get say 250 as opposed to 400. I have told them I don't think British lace makers would pay the differance. But then I thought of the ladies who have to replace their pins so now I don't know. They are a good kind family companya and I don't want them to waste money on some thing that won't sell. What do you think? Vivienne - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] IOLI conventions - lunch
Unless you have chaired a large convention, and dealt with a large hotel, you probably don't realize what a meal costs in that environment. Also realize that part of the price is the room cost, as well as the food and the service. Unless the group wishes to change the format of future Arachne meetings to a non-food event, or schedule it outside the hotel, expect the price to be similar in the future.You will not find a fast food price in a commercial hotel setting. Also, most people don't realize that the hotel negotiates a package deal for a convention. If there is a certain volume of food contracts, and bedroom rental, then the classrooms come with it without a separate rental fee. If the hotel does not receive that volume of income from food and bedrooms, then classrooms must be paid separately. With the IOLI convention format, we need lots and lots of classrooms because our classes are small. This year we will have 27 teachers. That's a lot of rooms...especially if a room rent in applied. Thankfully, we have enough food scheduled that it should not be a problem this time. And with the nice number of people registered to attend, we hopefully will also meet the hotel's desired bedroom rental quantity. There's still room in many of the classes, and room in the hotel, if you want to attend and haven't registered yet. I'm looking forward to both the Arachne lunch and the OIDFA meeting. This is the first time I know of that we've had an OIDFA meeting. Alice in Oregon Host guild member and Display chairman Apr 9, 2010 06:36:23 PM, jbl...@sbcglobal.net wrote: >Like others, I am looking forwarding to hearing what classes I got for this summer >and also to meeting other Arachne at the lunch. I picked up a cute raffle prize >for the lunch last week. You will have to attend to see what it is ;-} > >I also wrote to the 2011 and 2012 convention hosts asking them to try to keep >the cost of the luncheon down, as I know some people did not attend last year because >of the expense. I think our numbers were down in 2009 because the California meals >were so expensive. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Securing prickings
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge & then stick the contact to the pricking & the pillow & you don't need any pins. I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath. I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings. Pene in Tartu, Estonia where she is in a lace designing mode. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
