Re: [lace] Belgian color code
Dear all I did Chantilly year 1 at the Kantcentrum in July this year, Lieve Pollet uses turquoise for pairs that are carried with the gimp in Chantilly. She did say it wasn't part of the official colour coding. It does make it clearer that the pairs aren't thrown out which it would appear if a line just stopped. I had no problem telling turquoise from blue or green, orange (cttt) from red (ctct) in the ground on this lace was a totally different story Susan -- Susan Roberts Sent from my iPhone Website: www.susanroberts.info > On 18 Sep 2017, at 22:04, jo <yhgr@xs4all.nl> wrote: > > Thanks fort this exhaustive list. Never heard of turquoise, seems to me it > could be hard to tell apart from green and blue, colors may present > themselves differently on another screens or another printers. What is a > turnover stitch in terms of ctp (cross/twist/pin) anyway? > > Jo > https://github.com/d-bl/GroundForge/wiki/ > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Support pin in Binche cloth areas
At the risk of being called lace police there is no need to use support pins, they have to be placed very accurately not to show later. However the way I was taught by Anne-Marie to do an input is not quite what is shown in a colour working diagram. As I can't post a picture here I will try and describe: - work through all the passives except the last one (the inner ring pair) - cloth the last passive (the inner ring pair) with the first pair from the input - take the worker in cloth through both these pairs - take the unused (lower) pair at the input and use this as your new worker across the row The tensioning seems very strange at first but you can tension back against the pin with this method much easier and you don't need to support anything with extra pins. You reverse this for an output. You can see this method in some old Binche laces Susan -- Susan Roberts Website: www.susanroberts.info > On 4 Feb 2017, at 18:20, Anita Hansen <purplelace...@hotmail.com> wrote: > > I saw Jo's post on her Binche sampler and comment about tension problems in > cloth areas because of no support pins. I left a reply for her about how I > use them. I decided I might as well "come out" here publicly and declare it > as well. I use support pins in my cloth areas. And I DON'T care what the > lace police think of it! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Binche Rabbits
Hi Eve I think the pattern you want is in Memoire II by Kumiko (this one has a green cover), it's pattern 1 - Spring. It was published in 1998 so The Lace Guild is probably your best bet Susan -- Susan Roberts Newton-le-Willows Website: www.susanroberts.info > On 9 Mar 2016, at 18:16, Eve Morton <e...@chez-morton.com> wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > Please can anyone help me to find the pattern for a square edge of rabbits in various poses made in Binche lace. If the pattern is available in a book I would be happy to buy the book or to borrow from the Lace Guild if they have it. The finished lace is 25cms square and 5.5cms deep. > -- > Eve > Poole, Dorset, UK > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Pattern
Hi Agnes I thin it's a Barry Biggins design and in one of his two books (a friend has got mine at the moment so I can't check but I think it is in the Alphabet one). The Lace Guild should have both in the library Best wishes Susan -- Susan Roberts Newton-le-Willows, England Website: www.susanroberts.info > On 29 Oct 2015, at 16:24, Agnes Boddington <ag...@weatherwax.karoo.co.uk> wrote: > > I am looking for a pattern, can anyone help as to where/what book I can find > it? > > It is a Honiton pattern of two dolpins by Caroline Biggins. > > Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: [lace] Question
The Kantcentrum is now in the old lace school, I am currently in a Binche 4 class with Anne-Marie (there are 14 of us and two other courses going on at the same time) There is a museum (and shop) on the ground floor with some interactive displays, now back to the designing .. Susan Www.susanroberts.info on 7/7/15 8:52 AM, Achim Siebert ac...@achims.de wrote: Hello Dee, the Kantcentrum is still existing - it just moved. I assume it’s bigger than before, but I couldn’t visit it yet since when I was there on our way back to Berlin from the Normandy we were too late (it closes at 17:00). The new address is Balstraat 16. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] fillings
Hi Susan I wouldn't never carry threads from one sewn filling pin hole to another in Honiton, I think it would be pretty impossible not to distort either the lace or the edge which you are trying to preserve as clean and straight as possible for raised sewing plus you are likely to see the loop of thread and the second sewing will be difficult/insecure. The only time I would carry would be across a narrow trail if I was working both at once or across a rib (when I probably wouldn't sew every pin hole anyway). The finished effect should have as few a distortions from where you would expect the filling to go if you were working more of it. It might feel like it takes more time to sew out, bow off, wind back and sew in again but the end result will be much better. Getting the pairs sewn in and out at the right positions really makes a difference to the finished look. In terms of where to start a filling it really depends on how difficult the filling is and whether you have worked it before (and if know how to work it inside out). I would normally start at whichever place looks easiest to work, so full repeats are normally easier than half repeats (because the half repeats need to look as it they would be full repeats). If you have a pre marked filling then it will generally have been placed carefully so that the filling is 'balanced', but this really links in to your next question. The best way to explain how to place a filling in a space is actually to look at it a different way. Look at a filling (it doesn't matter which one), cut a small shape in a blank piece of paper - not too large and not too small, perhaps the size of a small coin - now move the hole slowly over the filling. As you move the paper hole look at which layouts look balanced at the edges but will also give you the best sewing places - yes there will always have to be compromises but it is what is best overall. Once you've got the idea it will help you place the plastic film better, I always move it around the space until I think I've got the best compromise position (this could take some time as you way up the pros and cons) and I always study what a new filling is doing before I look at placing it. Hope this helps Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -Original Message- From: hottl...@neo.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 6:43 PM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] fillings Hello All! My Honiton adventures continue I'm working fillings. In this case, the fillings are marked so I don't need to decide for myself how to fill the void. May I ask about carrying threads? I'm not sure this is even the correct terminology! To cut or not to cut--that is the question! Is it necessary to sew out/bow off on the sides when the pairs will need to be sewn in again two pins away? OR, can the threads simply lie against the back of the lace after sewing them then resewing them into the new position? There's simply not a lot of space here about a bazillion pin holes! Another issue is where to start the filling? When working the pin stitch, it seemed easier to start at the narrow end work to the wider end. On the four pin, it seemed easier to start at the wide end. Overall, how does one decide? Lastly, in one of the Honiton classes that I attended, the teacher told me to select my own filling, prick on plastic make the lace. Easier said! than done! How does one go about selecting a filling to best fit the space? Are some shapes more attractive with certain fillings? Suggestions advice are welcome. Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Graph Paper
I use a free programme I found on the internet to print graph paper, its called Graph Paper Printer and is by Dr Philippe Marquis - all Philippe asks is that you send him a postcode of where you live (details on the opening screen). The programme has been around since the late 1990's but works on my Windows 7 PC. There are all sorts of different grid shapes and sizes you can select and there are always different size options (not always as many as I would like). I particularly like the customised grid option as it lets you have rectangular blocks any size you want, and different height and width - I use it to generate the paper used to design Binche lace which is 7mm across by 4mm high and I set my lines to a light grey. I can't remember where I found the programme but it was still available somewhere on the internet about a year ago when I loaded it on a laptop - just Google Philippe and graph paper and you will probably find it. Kind regards Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Sheila Perrin - SMP Lace
This morning I heard from Rosemary Green who had received a call from Julie Perrin last night asking that the sad news of her motherâs death be shared with the lace world, Sheila Perrin died at Aylesbury hospital on Sunday morning. Russell Perrin has had heart bypass surgery in the last week and was in ICU at Harefield Hospital when Julie called Rosemary. Rosemary says that there are currently no plans for SMP Lace to cease trading though, due to Russell's unexpected illness, there is a temporary suspension of the usual service. Kind regards Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Sebalace Bobbin winder
Iâve had a query from a lacemaker in Tenerife, does anyone know where you can get a rubber ring for the Sebalace metal bobbin winder? Many thanks Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] diagrams
While in Brugge this summer working diagrams were described to me as the Esperanto of lace by one of the shop keepers. Without these technical drawings our lace world would be much poorer and not as accessible; I don't read Dutch, Flemish or German but I have books on my shelves in these languages that I can use and follow because I have learnt to understand diagrams. The world of lace is much more accessible thanks to diagrams. For me the saying a picture is worth a thousand words rings very true here. I wonder if we were a multi language group whether we would be having this discussion? I should say that the vast majority of the lace I work now a days is Binche. If I work Honiton I now draw my own colour coded diagrams for any fillings Iâm not familiar with, for me this means I can work them much quicker (and they stick in my head quicker) than I would if I was following a sequence of words. How you interact with the diagram dictates whether it is more lace by numbers. I always try to understand what is going on in the diagram before I start by making my own drawing, tracing over a copy of the diagram at least once (on a complex Binche pattern I'll often do a pencil then a black ink tracing then a colour tracing of this). When I'm doing this I'm not just tracing lines I'm thinking stitches, inputs, outputs, exchanges, methods of transiting through cloth areas etc the same as I've been taught when attempting to design my own Binche patterns. When I come to my pillow and follow the diagram I'm not looking at the diagram cross by cross, I work sections with the picture in my head, although as a âformâ rather than a picture) â to me it's a bit like learning to read when a child recognise a word and doesn't need to spell it letter by letter. There is also the translation of what you see on the pillow in work to the diagram, I've got to the stage where I just see it and can swap between the two. To me working out the diagram is the challenge and the puzzle of lace, I've drawn diagrams for almost 25 years now to try and work out what to do in a pricking, perhaps if I'd had a teacher at the time things would have been different but I know I wouldn't have learnt as much. An interesting exercise that we do as part of Anne-Marieâs Binche class every year is to take a photocopy of an old piece of lace that has been greatly enlarged and trace over it to work out the stitches that have been used. Most people are relatively ok with the plaits and cloth areas but the one that gets lots of people every time is half stitch. As a teacher I find it fascinating watching something you think is easy tying experienced lacemakers up in knots and confusion, Iâve learnt so much about how others visualise and interpret lace through discussions weâve had that has gone on to help me when I explain things to students. I do use diagrams/drawings when I'm teaching/supporting my students but I'll have been training them to think about the diagram not just follow it blindly. Iâve also broken steps of working down into diagrams for students, one example is for a footside edge where I draw diagrams for students in four steps â I donât just given them the stage diagrams I sit down and talk them through each of the stages. I found this the most effective way of explaining a footside to students and found they could work it correctly that it sticks much quicker than when i hadnât drawn the stage diagrams for them. Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -Original Message- From: robinl...@socal.rr.com Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 4:27 AM To: Arachne Subject: Re: [lace] diagrams - Nancy Neff nnef...@yahoo.com wrote: I am interested in what you all think about the colored diagrams that accompany much published lace. I was struck by the phrase which is sort of paint by numbers in a recent post.- I have come across this attitude before. Holly Van Sciver does not use diagrams when she teaches, believing people become too dependent on the diagram instead of coming to understand the lace. If this happens, the student is unable to progress to any other piece unless it, too, has a thread diagram. I think this is probably true for some people. I, however, learn a whole lot more having a diagram than without it. Without the diagram or someone to show me at least one way to work a difficult part, I spend a very long and frustrating time trying to figure it out. I get very discouraged and get little or nothing done. If I am shown, I am perfectly able to generalize from this instance to other, similar situations. I learn at least one way to work the problem and may make adjustments to work it other ways as well. The first time I encounter the situation, I may rely heavily on diagrams; the second I work as much as I can remember/understand and refer to the pattern periodically; the third time, I work
Re: [lace] Lace Guild Exhibition Room Opens
Thanks for posting this Jacquie, I'm so glad Chris Kelly did get there eventually on Friday and that he has added images to his pages. Just to correct one think, the Artefact of the Month club is open to anyone to join, you don't need to be a member of The Lace Guild to receive the monthly e-mails (there is no charge for the service). The Museum committee have realised that a number of people are forwarding their e-mails to their friends, in the next issue of Lace (due out at the end of April) those of you who are Guild members will see a request from Gwynedd Roberts (the Museums Hon. Curator) not to do this but to encourage your friends to sign up for the service themselves. Your e-mail details are secure, the addresses aren't on the normal Guild database, aren't seen by any other club members and aren't passed on, the images you receive are good quality and the file size you receive won't be huge. Gwynedd explains the reason for asking you not to forward the Artefact e-mails: when applying for grants for the museum they are asked about access to the collection, the more people who sign up individually for the Artefact e-mails the more they can demonstrate greater access and the greater the chance of receiving funding to grow the collection/exhibition space further in the future. If you would like to receive the Artefact of the Month e-mail all you need to do is send an e-mail to Sharon at The Hollies (off...@laceguild.org) and she will add you to the list for the next e-mail which should be due out in the next week or two. Best wishes Susan --- Susan Roberts Editor of Lace http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -Original Message- From: laceandb...@aol.com Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 7:20 PM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Lace Guild Exhibition Room Opens . Related to the collections, don't forget that if you are a Lace Guild member they will send you a photo of a piece of lace from the collection every month, if you join the (completely free) Artifact of the Month Club. Contact the Hollies for details. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Message from Sue Dane, Chairman of The Lace Guild
Sue Dane, Chairman of The Lace Guild, has asked me to post the message below to Arachne on the Larkrise to Candleford discussions. Kind regards Susan Editor of Lace --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - --- The Lace Guild was contacted by the BBC for advice in advance of the episode showing lacemaking being made. In fairness to the actresses concerned and the production team, The Lace Guild Executive would like to correct rumours and inaccuracies which have been drawn to our attention. All lacemaking in the episode shown was carried out entirely by the two actresses concerned. Following hours of tuition from one of our local tutors, they could both competently handle bobbins, complete Bucks Point ground, footside and headside with picots. The two ladies both put a lot of effort into learning some of our skill, as they wanted to do justice to lacemakers and their skills. They should be applauded for it. The pillow shown and the lace on it were provided by Sue Dane from The lace Guild, other Bucks Point lace was provided by Pam Nottingham. The BBC production team did take some of our advice, changing some of the original script, which mentioned the colours of the bobbin spangles. We had no input at the filming stage. Unfortunately they used a piece of Maltese lace in the filming, not provided by us and described it as Point Ground lace. Their error has been pointed out to them. Kind regards Sue Dane Lace Guild Chairman - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Information Lace Guild members only - April issue of Lace
Apologies to all Lace Guild members, our printer has had some problems with the April issue of Lace, they have been working very hard to resolve these problems over the last couple of weeks. The magazine is now printed, stapled and folded (it was the stapling causing the problems) but unfortunately the magazine is about a week late getting to the mailing house (for UK distribution) and The Hollies (for delivery outside the UK). The mailing house and The Hollies are working to get your magazines out to you as soon as possible but it will be arriving slightly later than normal. Once again apologies for the delay we are working with our printer on ensuring there arent similar problems with future issues. If you have friends who are Lace Guild members but not members of Arachne please could you forward this message on to them. Kind regards Susan --- Susan Roberts (Editor of Lace) http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] raised and rolled
A few years ago I worked a piece that compared ribs and rolls (I prefer to do back to back ribs than rolls). The piece - the pattern for which is on the front of Suzanne Thompson's second book although I've not followed Suzanne's instructions - is on my website (quick way to get to the page is http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts/honitongalleryf.html then click on Rib or roll? on the left hand side). If you hold your mouse over a section it should tell you how I've worked the rib/roll for each section. Happy lacemaking Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -- From: laceandb...@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:13 AM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] raised and rolled Hi Karen I was told a more precise definition by the lady who gave me a taster day in Honiton many many years ago, and several years before I studied it first with Pat Read and then Pat Perryman. I was told partly raised is basically flat work, except all the sewings are done as top sewings, leaving the clean footside edge lines slightly proud on the right side. This makes a bigger difference to the piece of lace than you would think. Raised work is when ribs are used, for example up one side of a leaf, and the cloth or half stitch is sewn into it on the return journey. What I don't think it tells you in the books, but the teachers do, face to face, is that unless you are absolutely confident with sewings, twist your leader four times before the edge stitch, pin, work the edge stitch as usual then put a fourth twist on the returning leader. This extra twist makes the pinhole slightly larger and helps offset the way the rib pinholes tend to close up, probably because the work isn't supported on the other edge. Rolled work is when you carry a bundle of threads from one place to another, sewing them along the edge of existing work. It can be done for purely functional purposes, purely decorative or a combination. Unlike Withof and Milanese, these rolls are mainly inside the work, whereas in the other two laces the roll outlines the design features and is as commonly found on the outside edge as within the design. So, in Honiton you may work half a leaf, sew the bundle of threads along the vein side of the leaf to get all the pairs back to the top, and then work the second half of the leaf over the back of the bundle, which disappears for the time being until you turn the finished work over - TaDa. Raised work makes pinholes for the next piece to sew into, rolled work needs pinholes already there. Sometimes the two are used in combination, most commonly for leaf veins, where an off-shoot rib is worked at an angle to the main one, and then a roll bring the pairs back again. Later cloth or half stitch is worked over the back of the whole caboocle. Enjoy your Honiton lacemaking Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Kantcentrum
I have just received the message below for inclusion in the next issue of the Lace Guild magazine - not sure if anyone else has received a similar e-mail or not. As the next issue isn't due to be published until the end of January I thought I would circulate it now so that anyone who wanted to write to the Mayor had the details, I have asked if there is a deadline to write to the mayor. Regards Susan --- Susan Roberts Editor - Lace Guild magazine http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts From: Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:20 PM To: Subject: message HLN online message To the members of Lace Guild, Last thuesday on the 5th of November the Kantcentrum in Brugge was closed after 40 years of education. In the General meeting the menbers of staff have neen told that there is no future for them. This dicision is based on problems of financial art. The Kantcentre has lookedfor a new financier for several years, after the West Vlaamse management stopped with the subsidies. But they didn´t find anyone. The Kantcentre started in 1970 with education in lace. Many teachers have followed their education there, and can now bring their knowledge to other people who want to learn lacemaking. Every year the Kantcentre organizes the Lacedays and many tourist make acquaintance with the lace and the lacemakers. With the sunnercources it was possible for people all over the world to learn several laces. I followed several years the Binche by Anne Marie Verbeeke. In my class were 6 different countries present. Also the Lace Magazin is no more available. I hope that with my message many lace makers stand up to do an appeal to the Mayor of Brugge to help the Kantcentre and give them a new future. It is a disaster, not only for the kantcentre but also for the city of Brugge. The adress of the Mayor is: Patrick Moenaert, Stadhuis, Burg 12, 8000 Brugge, Belgie. With kind regards, Gerry Fassotte/Impelmans. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Fastening Honitons -- was Bundling bobbins
I always use curtain tape on mine, I've always referred to it as dainty but I don't know what its proper name is (think its the thinnest you can get). The bobbins fit into each loop that the curtain hook would fit and then I pin the tape down every so often when I'm travelling/moving my pillow. I also use them when I've got lots of bobbins on the pillow and stacked them out of the way. Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts - Original Message - From: C Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Arachne List lace@arachne.com Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 2:11 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Fastening Honitons -- was Bundling bobbins lacemakers To anchor my Honiton bobbins, I use 1 inch wide elastic like you would put into slacks or pajama pants. I have sections cut in 7 or 8 inch lengths and some a bit longer. The rubberish feel of the elastic seems to cling to the wood bobbins pretty well. I insert a lot of pins to hold the elastic in place. I particularly hoard corsage pins just for this purpose, and to use as divider pins. It worked the best of all the things I have tried. Susie Johnson Morris, IL - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Carolyn Hastings ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; lace@arachne.com Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 7:56 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Fastening Honitons -- was Bundling bobbins It's been a long time since I worked Honiton, but I remember that when I moved the pillow, I first tied the bobbins down (crocheted strip or length of ribbon - whatever works), and then put another strip of ribbon across the threads just above the heads. This anchored the bobbin in place and prevented it from slipping up out of the restraints. The trick is to pin that second strip down frequently so they won't slip under it. Clay - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
