Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread Annette Gill
Thanks - I'll bear that in mind.  I wasn't really aware of the different
twists on thread until I read Brenda Paternoster's book.  A very useful
book - but I never realised thread was so complicated!

Regards,
Annette, London


 Hi Annette -

 I have found that the silk I work with (Tire) likes to lose
 it's twist when I work with it.  It also had a lot of
 trouble with the hitch jumping off the neck of the bobbin.
 So for this latest project (a Milanese piece started during
 a workshop with Louise Colgan!) I took a closer look and my
 suspicions were confirmed...  Tire silk has a Z-twist
 instead of the S-twist I'm accustomed to.  While many
 knowledgeable people say that that makes no difference, I
 can tell you that reversing the direction I wound my bobbins
 made a huge difference in how the thread behaved.  So be
 sure you know which way your silk is twisted, and wind
 accordingly.

 Clay

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread Thelacebee
In a message dated 27/09/2003 23:38:52 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

 
 Holly Van Sciver explained it to me when I questioned the wisdom of 
 spending an inordinate (to me g) amount of money for the Mechlin pins 
 (about the same size as insect pins 00, I think). Since I trust her, I 
 decided to invest, and was never sorry -- I love working with them.
 
 -
 Tamara P Duvall
 Lexington, Virginia,  USA
 Formerly of Warsaw, Poland

When I started to make lace, the two most common pins being sold in the UK 
were sold under the titles of Torchon or Honiton pins - with Honiton being 
finer.  

Hornsby's very kindly spent a bit of time explaining the difference of length 
and thickness to me (much like Holly Van Sciver) and I have always used the 
thinner, slightly longer so called 'Honiton' pins.  

Yes they bend, but as my lacemaking got better I realised it was me that bent 
them by being basically stupid.  I don't now use my pillow as a rest for 
books, I don't try and put all my equipment onto the top of my pillow, when 
travelling, and I don't heave the pins into the pillow any more - so my bent pin 
ratio is now virtually nil.

Just a question to the spiders though, does anyone know of a supplier in the 
UK who sells insect pins (and I don't just mean lace suppliers).

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm A HREF=http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee;blogging/A now - see 
what it's all about

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread hanke hofstra
 
 Hi Annette -
  
  I have found that the silk I work with (Tire)likes
to lose it's twist when I work with it.  It also had a
lot of trouble with the hitch jumping off the neck of
the bobbin.snipped
  
  Clay
 
 I usually do a double half hitch (ie twist the
 thread twice) round the neck 
 to hold the thread - this seems to sort out the
 problem with it coming off due to the silk being
slippery
 
 Regards
 
 Liz Beecher
 
I use a hairclip over the thread and neck , It's a
very small clip with 4 or 5 legs on both side, and its
clamped on the neck. You don't need to do a half
hitch. I use this for very slippery or thick thread.
The thread won't slip of your bobbin.
 
Regards,
Hanke Hofstra



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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread palmhaven
I must be doing something wrong!  I have never ( knock on wood)  had any
trouble working with silk.  I find it much easier to work with than linen or
cotton.  I am fairly new to silk and love it so much that I  may use it
whenever I can get away with it now.
We don't have any lace police in south Texas.

Sylvia Andrews

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread Lorri Ferguson
I have found the same 'phenomena' with Z-twist threads.
Is the 'proper' wind direction then counter clock-wise (when looking at the 
head end of the bobbin?  I have always wound clock-wise.

Lorri F


 I have found that the silk I work with (Tire) likes to lose
 it's twist when I work with it.  It also had a lot of
 trouble with the hitch jumping off the neck of the bobbin.
 So for this latest project (a Milanese piece started during
 a workshop with Louise Colgan!) I took a closer look and my
 suspicions were confirmed...  Tire silk has a Z-twist
 instead of the S-twist I'm accustomed to.  While many
 knowledgeable people say that that makes no difference, I
 can tell you that reversing the direction I wound my bobbins
 made a huge difference in how the thread behaved.  So be
 sure you know which way your silk is twisted, and wind
 accordingly.

 Clay

 - Original Message - 
 From: Annette Gill [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 3:42 AM
 Subject: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread


  Robin,
 
  Thanks very much for your suggestions about silk threads.
 I think I've seen
  YLI threads in local quilt shops, but I don't know whether
 that included
  their silks.  (Or maybe it was in Hobbycraft - sorry for
 mentioning the H
  word, Jean and Liz!)  Thanks also for the tip about the
 thread untwisting -
  I have problems with that when I use continental bobbins,
 so I'd better
  stick to Midlands bobbins when I use silk.
 
  Regards,
  Annette, London
 
   In my opinion, silk is no harder to use than linen and
 cotton.  Gutermann
   silk is the most like cotton in look and feel, so I
 don't think you want
   that if you're trying silk for its difference.
  
   Tire and YLI (and a third brand I can't think of right
 now) silk come on
   spools that look like sewing machine thread, and that's
 the stuff I'd
   recommend.  It comes in size 50 and 100, and I've used
 both sizes for
  Bucks
   and torchon patterns...
 
   You do have to watch the rolling bobbins.  The thread is
 very strong while
   it's properly twisted, but when bobbins roll around it
 can come untwisted
   and then it breaks easily...
 
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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-28 Thread Carol Adkinson
Hi Sylvia,

I think I am with you!   From the very first time I worked with silk I have
loved the feel, sheen and look of the finished article when made in silk!
I still use DMC 30 or 50 for some things, and the lovely Spanish Finca
thread too, but for something special I use silk - and like you, so far I
have never had any trouble using it.  (That's probably a cue for the Bad
Fairy to come out of the woodwork...)

Carol - in Suffolk, UK, where it was a fine and warm morning, which
deteriorated.


- Original Message - 
From: palmhaven [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread


I must be doing something wrong!  I have never ( knock on wood)  had any
trouble working with silk.  I find it much easier to work with than linen or
cotton.  I am fairly new to silk and love it so much that I  may use it
whenever I can get away with it now.
We don't have any lace police in south Texas.

Sylvia Andrews

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[lace] Re: Working with silk thread/twists

2003-09-28 Thread Tamara P. Duvall
On Sunday, Sep 28, 2003, at 14:06 US/Eastern, Lorri Ferguson wrote:

I have found the same 'phenomena' with Z-twist threads.
Is the 'proper' wind direction then counter clock-wise (when looking 
at the
head end of the bobbin?  I have always wound clock-wise.
I'm with Sylvia and Carol; I never had a problem working with silk, 
irrespective of the twist. I always wind my bobbins the same way for 
all fibers -- wouldn't know clock- or counterclock-wise from 
cockadoodledoo -- mostly because I'm not sure I'd know how to hitch the 
dratted thing, once I wound it un-naturally -- presumably, the hitch 
would have to match the direction and directions aren't my strong point 
:)

But for those who do have problems with S and Z twists and feel that 
winding the other way might be helpful, there's an excellent article, 
well illustrated, addressing the subject. It's on Lacenotes, and has 
been wrtitten by our own (Arachnean) Jean Leader.

http://www.q7design.demon.co.uk/lacenotes/

And click on Winding Bobbins
-
Tamara P Duvall
Lexington, Virginia,  USA
Formerly of Warsaw, Poland
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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread/insect pins

2003-09-28 Thread Katrina Worley
On Sunday, Sep 28, 2003, at 07:38 US/Eastern, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Liz) 
wrote:

Just a question to the spiders though, does anyone know of a supplier 
in the
UK who sells insect pins (and I don't just mean lace suppliers).

If you know someone who has a connection to a university or college, 
you might check the campus bookstore. Most of the campuses on which I 
teach stock them in the bookstore.

Katrina

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[lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-27 Thread Annette Gill
Patty,

Thank very much for your notes about the silk threads, and the tips about
wetting the knots.  I know I can get Pipers Silks in the UK from their web
site, but I will look out for the other threads you mention.

What are insect pins?  I've never heard of them!

Regards,
Annette,
London

 Dear Annette,

 I have used just about every kind of silk and I finally worked a miniature
parasol from Ann Collier's book of miniature lace for dollhouses (can't
remember the exact title.)  From my experience with the miniature parasol
which I first tried to work in 140 or 160 cotton and it just disintegrated.
So I got serious and pulled out some unboiled 3 ply silk in pale blue with
boiled silk, doubled, in white for the gimp.  I was very happy with the
results

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-27 Thread Barron
Annette said ..
Thanks also for the tip about the thread untwisting -
I have problems with that when I use continental bobbins, so I'd better
stick to Midlands bobbins when I use silk.

I seem to remember a tip about using suedde or chamais leather under
continentals to stop them rolling - anyone know if this is a figment of my
imagination or if it actually works?

jenny barron
sunny Scotland

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-27 Thread Steph Peters
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:43:46 -0700, Jenny wrote:
I seem to remember a tip about using suedde or chamais leather under
continentals to stop them rolling - anyone know if this is a figment of my
imagination or if it actually works?

I have two cover cloths made from stretchy velvet fabric.  They were well
washed before use to make them shed all their threads in the washing
machine, not on my lace.  I find them good to use with any bobbins.  They do
inhibit rolling of unspangled bobbins a little.  Having said that, I'm
currently making Withof with Binche bobbins on a cotton cover and not
finding that a problem either.  For me the trick to using continentals is to
have the pillow horizontal, whereas for spangled bobbins I like to work at
an angle.

--
On the whole, human beings want to be good, but not too good
and not quite all the time. - George Orwell
Steph Peters  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tatting, lace  stitching page http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm

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Re: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread

2003-09-27 Thread Thelacebee
In a message dated 27/09/2003 13:24:13 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Hi Annette -
 
 I have found that the silk I work with (Tire) likes to lose
 it's twist when I work with it.  It also had a lot of
 trouble with the hitch jumping off the neck of the bobbin.snipped
 
 Clay

I usually do a double half hitch (ie twist the thread twice) round the neck 
to hold the thread - this seems to sort out the problem with it coming off due 
to the silk being slippery

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm A HREF=http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee;blogging/A now - see 
what it's all about

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[lace] Re: Working with silk thread/rolling bobbins

2003-09-27 Thread Tamara P. Duvall
On Saturday, Sep 27, 2003, at 08:32 US/Eastern, Clay Blackwell wrote:

I seem to remember a tip about using suedde or chamais leather under
continentals to stop them rolling - anyone know if this is a figment 
of my
imagination or if it actually works?

jenny barron
sunny Scotland
It actually works.  And it's important to keep the pillow as
flat as possible so that gravity doesn't work against you.
I use Ultra-Suede, which is a man-made alternative to
suede.
VBG I think the reason Clay and I are such good friends is that polar 
opposites attract; we differ on almost every issue... :) I'm the person 
who's so devoted to a crochet hook for sewings, that I never could get 
the hang of the sewing-in hook that Clay is so happy with...  And, like 
Liz (thelacebee), I make a hitch through two loops and don't worry my 
little head about the Z- and S-spin of the thread and the direction of 
winding; never had a speck of bother with Tire (or any other thread) 
untwisting or slipping...

I too use the Ultra Suede for my work cloths (and from the same shop, 
which Clay so kindly discovered for me g). But that's because it's so 
thick and supple that when folded, it lifts the threads off the pillow 
nicely, which I find useful when working Milanese (pins pushed in all 
the way but, alas, not below the pillow's surface g). And since it 
doesn't shed, one can make those work cloths with a small circular 
hole in them without the effort of hemming -- I prefer those to the 
horseshoe (never could make *that* work for me properly, either g).

But as for Ultra Suede (or any suede) stopping the bobbins from 
rolling... IMO, it's only a very tiny step above diddly squat, and 
that only at the beginning, before it gets slick from use :) *Even* 
with an absolutely flat pillow...

I use my T-squares (which Neil Keats in Oz makes for me) exclusively, 
for all laces. They slide easily, but do not roll (or only if pushed 
really hard), no matter what the workcloth is made of. But, at the IOLI 
Convention in August, I picked up a lovely pair of black Bayeux 
bobbins, each celebrating the 50th anniversary, but each with a 
different design. So, naturally, I wanted to use them immediately :) 
And where better than as a gimp pair in my class -- the gimp bobbins do 
not have to be exactly the same as the rest; it's actually desirable to 
be able to distinguish them easily...

Although it was called gimp in the supplies list, it turned out not to 
be -- it was a thick pair, at the outer edge of each sample triangle 
(an outline) and cloth stitched throughout.  I was using a single ply 
(composed of 5 strands) of Kreinik's Silk Serica for it. And what I 
noticed -- very soon -- was that the inner bobbin of the pair (kept 
somewhat in check by the outer one) behaved well; the thread remained 
loosely twisted, with excellent coverage. But the *outer* one -- with 
nothing to stop it on one side -- did not; it kept twisting the thread 
tighter and tighter, till it wanted to kink up and till it was as thin 
as the base thread. I had to do the pick up, roll in the opposite 
direction, pick up, roll in the opposite direction trick all the time 
(or far too frequently for my taste, at any rate g).

The pillow was the block one from Gabriele -- as flat as yesterday's 
beer. The workcloth was Ultra Suede, freshly washed (ie with it's nap 
up again). The pair was sometimes on the right-hand edge, sometimes at 
the left-hand one... *None of it* made a blind bit of difference -- the 
outer bobbin rolled till I was nearly distracted. So I rewound the 
thread onto a pair of squares and think of the Bayeux pair as 
Christmas tree ornament.  I *may* one day use it again as a gimp but 
only if I'm certain that it'll remain surrounded by other bobbins 
(which will keep it from rolling)

-
Tamara P Duvall
Lexington, Virginia,  USA
Formerly of Warsaw, Poland
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