[lace] washing silk
Hi Arachnids Re: NO! Sorry for shouting, but I've seen what enzyme soaks can do to bones and flesh, never mind delicate fabrics. First of all, an enzyme is a molecule that facilitates a chemical reaction in another molecule. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com When I'm in doubt I always go for tepid water and pure soap first (Lux flakes or Velvet). Next step would be Soda Bicarb or salt on the stains. David in Ballarat, AUS final rinse with vinegar (white)or lemon juice (about 1/2 cup to about 5 liters of water) hung up to dry in the shade (here in Australia that is inside). Anna from a sunnyish Sydney Thank you Robin. I agree. I would not even contemplate using enzyme based products for treating silk. I think I will go along with your method David, unless anyone come up with any problems. We'll wait until a sunny day, if we have one this year. The final rinse sounds good too. I don't think lemon juice would attack the silk. When it is manufactured silk is treated with acetic acid to give it 'scroop', the feel you get when new silk fabric is rubbed together in your hand, it is removed by washing. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
I think I remember something about lemon juice not rinsing out--like the enzymes--vinegar is much better for the final rinse Cynthia On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:17 AM, Alex Stillwell wrote: Thank you Robin. I agree. I would not even contemplate using enzyme based products for treating silk. I think I will go along with your method David, unless anyone come up with any problems. We'll wait until a sunny day, if we have one this year. The final rinse sounds good too. I don't think lemon juice would attack the silk. When it is manufactured silk is treated with acetic acid to give it 'scroop', the feel you get when new silk fabric is rubbed together in your hand, it is removed by washing. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
But surely, vinegar is also acidic as well as lemon juice. I think I would rather avoid both as they would both work on the fibres. Nor would I take that much notice of what is being done in the dying industry. They are not particularly worried about the survival rates of their products, only to sell as much as possible. Joepie, East Sussex, UK From: Cynce Williams To: Alex Stillwell I think I remember something about lemon juice not rinsing out--like the enzymes--vinegar is much better for the final rinse Cynthia On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:17 AM, Alex Stillwell wrote: Thank you Robin. I agree. I would not even contemplate using enzyme based products for treating silk. I think I will go along with your method David, unless anyone come up with any problems. We'll wait until a sunny day, if we have one this year. The final rinse sounds good too. I don't think lemon juice would attack the silk. When it is manufactured silk is treated with acetic acid to give it 'scroop', the feel you get when new silk fabric is rubbed together in your hand, it is removed by washing. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
I can't find the source I wanted. From Isabel Wingate, *Textile Fabrics and their Selection* sixth edition, 1970 (it's an old text book) Effect of Acids Acids, such as sulfuric, hydrochloric, and nitric, do not injure silks, if they are dilute. Silk is more resistant to acids than are the vegetable fibers, but concentrated acids destroy silk if it is soaked in them or if the acids are allowed to remain on the silk for any length of time. Formic acid and acetic acid have no injurious effect on silks. Oxalic, tartaric, and citric acids are not injurious if they are removed promptly. In the back of the book is a list of various stains and methods of removing them. Unfortunately you need to know what caused the stain. HTH Cynthia On Feb 14, 2013, at 7:59 AM, J D Hammett wrote: But surely, vinegar is also acidic as well as lemon juice. I think I would rather avoid both as they would both work on the fibres. Nor would I take that much notice of what is being done in the dying industry. They are not particularly worried about the survival rates of their products, only to sell as much as possible. Joepie, East Sussex, UK From: Cynce Williams To: Alex Stillwell I think I remember something about lemon juice not rinsing out--like the enzymes--vinegar is much better for the final rinse Cynthia On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:17 AM, Alex Stillwell wrote: Thank you Robin. I agree. I would not even contemplate using enzyme based products for treating silk. I think I will go along with your method David, unless anyone come up with any problems. We'll wait until a sunny day, if we have one this year. The final rinse sounds good too. I don't think lemon juice would attack the silk. When it is manufactured silk is treated with acetic acid to give it 'scroop', the feel you get when new silk fabric is rubbed together in your hand, it is removed by washing. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] washing silk
Some years ago, I used to dye silk scarves with acid dyes in a microwave. After dyeing, I washed them in a good quality washing up liquid, or a hand- wash liquid, rinsed once, and then rinsed again with a small quantity of vinegar in the water. I still have some of these scarves myself, and always wash them in the same way - they seem to survive this treatment very well. I add a little vinegar to the final rinse for wool too. I live in an area with hard water, and a final slightly acidic rinse is supposed to be better for wool and silk, than my hard water. Kathleen Berkshire, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] washing silk
I would firstly advise that you check the Arachne archives for the valuable advice that Jeri has written on the subject of washing textiles over the years. However, I will add that whereas cottons and linens (cellulose fibres) are stronger when wet and have some resistance to alkalis (ie detergents), protein fibres (eg wool and silk) are weaker when wet but have some resistance to acids. For my silk camisoles and chemises that I won't be keeping to posterity, I have no qualms about machine washing them in ordinary non-bio washing powder, at 40 deg.C, but I *never* use fabric conditioner (a friend once ruined an otherwise washable silk blouse by using it). They manage to last a good few years of this sort of treatment and day to day wear. Some silks, like dupion and moiré, shouldn't be washed as they will water-mark. Silk that you want to pass on to the next generation, though, is an entirely different matter. Wash carefully with Orvus or pure soap and make sure that you rinse the item until every last trace of soap is out - soap is alkaline. This can take 10-20 rinses, so plan to do it on a day when you haven't got anything else to do! Use de-ionised water for the final rinse, I wouldn't use the acids necessarily. You can soak the item to remove the stains gently, as long as you keep it supported - remember that wetting the fibres will temporarily weaken them. Stains are easier to remove when fresh, so if they are long set in you may have to learn to live with them. Silk is boiled in its processing, so I'm not so sure that temperature is an issue where the fibre is concerned, it is more likely to remove any colour. Using lemon juice and vinegar are old fashioned rinsing treatments for your hair (blonde/brunette accordingly) to make it shine - I'm not sure it had any other conditioning effect, though! Lemon juice is a bleach, so don't use it on coloured fabrics. With wool, Mom always told me that it isn't temperature that shrinks wool, it is change of temperature, so the rinsing water needs to be the same temperature as that used for washing. In message dub103-ds15f2c67a8128e7673eb7d0a7...@phx.gbl, J D Hammett jdhamm...@msn.com writes But surely, vinegar is also acidic as well as lemon juice. I think I would rather avoid both as they would both work on the fibres. Nor would I take that much notice of what is being done in the dying industry. They are not particularly worried about the survival rates of their products, only to sell as much as possible. Joepie, East Sussex, UK -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk - salt
I think salt is something that can stop colour coming out of fibres, since most dyes, (including stains, of course), are only sparingly soluble in a salt solution. Royal Navy sailors used to wash their blue and white collars in sea-water rather than fresh water so that the colour would not run. (Dronsfield Edmonds, The Transition from Natural to Synthetic Dyes, page 98.) Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K., rejoicing in the sunshine after so much snow, and happily researching pigments). - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] washing silk
Hi Arachnids A dear friend has asked me for help renovating her mother's hand-embroidered light-weight dressing gown that she has inherited. She can remember her mother washing it and we do not know how to treat the stains, probably food. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
Alex, A dear friend has asked me for help renovating her mother's hand-embroidered light-weight dressing gown that she has inherited. She can remember her mother washing it and we do not know how to treat the stains, probably food. Any suggestions will be appreciated. When I'm in doubt I always go for tepid water and pure soap first (Lux flakes or Velvet). Next step would be Soda Bicarb or salt on the stains. Another reliable old remedy which is usually safe is to make a paste with lemon juice and Silver Star starch (you know that old lumpy kind), rub it into the stain gently and then allow to dry in the sun. Lemon juice needs sunshine to activate it. Perhaps that's a bit much to ask of the UK at this time of year though. Let's know how you go. David in Ballarat, AUS - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
I was wondering if one could get an enzyme based solution to remove the food stains. If there is a gentle one for fabrics. I use one on the carpets and furniture after the cat has brought up a fur ball. I have no knowledge of their long term safety for use on the fabrics, but they do remove the stains. IN England, I got them from the local vet Sue sueba...@comcast.net -Original Message- From: Alex Stillwell A dear friend has asked me for help renovating her mother's hand-embroidered light-weight dressing gown that she has inherited. She can remember her mother washing it and we do not know how to treat the stains, probably food. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
I wash silk regularly, all my nighties and slips are silk. I usually do what David has suggested on some occasions I have even used 'preen' ( a prewash spray on stain remover to remove bad stains. This is a method of last resort, and I leave it on for less than minute before washing the garment. Contrary to popular belief silk can be a very robust material and long wearing if washed in pure soap (even if you have to grate up a cake of soap), use tepid to warm water (if it is too hot for your hand it is too hot for silk), rinsed in tepid water, final rinse with vinegar (white)or lemon juice (about 1/2 cup to about 5 liters of water) hung up to dry in the shade (here in Australia that is inside). Anna from a sunnyish Sydney - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] washing silk
- Sue Babbs sueba...@comcast.net wrote: I was wondering if one could get an enzyme based solution to remove the food stains. NO! Sorry for shouting, but I've seen what enzyme soaks can do to bones and flesh, never mind delicate fabrics. First of all, an enzyme is a molecule that facilitates a chemical reaction in another molecule. After the reaction, the enzyme lets go and grabs another target molecule, facilitates that reaction, and so on--the enzyme never gets used up and can go on, and on, and on I saw photos of a fish-skeleton collection that had been cleaned of muscle and tendon with an enzyme soak. The clean bones were thoroughly washed/rinsed afterward, but it's impossible to get every single enzyme molecule out, so it keeps on chewing away. WHen it ran out of muscle tendon, it continued, breaking down minute bits of protein in the bones, destroying them. The skeletons were piles of bone-dust with a few sticks of bone still not digested. Second, most of the enzyme fabric cleaners target protein and break it down. Silk (and wool, for that matter) are protein! The cleaners usually say not to use them on wool or nylon (nylon is not protein, but it has the same linkages, which the enzyme breaks down into hydrochloric acid. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Washing silk lace, washing machine device
Dear Lace Launderers, I write on Arachne for the person washing lace at home. Museum conservators have much more training in the use of chemicals and advanced techniques. You often are not equipped at home to do what they might tackle. It is almost more than many can attempt when I specify Orvus and distilled or de-ionized water.(Alkaline-based Orvus neutralizes the damaging effects of acids residing in cotton or linen fibers.) 1. Has anyone used the pureWash product Susan informs us is available? For lace? I looked it up on Google, and it is an appliance for attachment to a washing machine, which Amazon listed for $450!. It introduces Photo Catalytic Oxidizers to the wash water. You will all remember that I have written extensively about avoiding chemicals (added to public water) and minerals (natural, and in both public and well water) by using *distilled or de-ionized water*, which is not available - that I know of - when you turn on water for a washing machine. Nowhere did I see how this appliance could be used for hand-washing lace in appropriate water. 2. I will wait to read a museum-conservator's comments on this new product, though I think it not appropriate for hand-washing lace or other items in museum collections. I used to work on Madison Avenue in the 1960's, and know that ad agencies are hired to write promotional material in the format of newspaper articles. These are sent to newspapers to be published under a reporter's by-line - with no questions asked. A one-month test by a columnist would not pass my standards. Do you suppose she washed a old piece of silk Maltese lace in a washing machine? When I write to you, it is always with the old laces in mind, because I do not know if you will be washing a fragile piece of old Mechlin or a sturdy new crochet. Caution is necessary. 3. To answer the original question from Vicky in Maryland about Orvus as not suitable for silk: I wash my white/cream silk laces in Orvus, and rinse in distilled water until I feel I can drink the rinse water. The warning in the article you read is probably to avoid a law suit. I must warn against putting black silk laces in water. They are often weakened from dyes, and since I never know if you will be washing brand new threads or old threads (my advice is saved for later reference), I am very careful what I say to you. Black laces should be taken to a conservation professional for cleaning. 4. In the 1960's and 1970's I made silk shantung Summer dresses for work. These fabrics came from Italy, and I pre-washed them and the lining fabrics, with no loss of color. This was so the dresses could be washed in the future, and would not need dry cleaning. Water is used in the processing of silk. It is other steps in silk processing that leads manufacturers to recommend dry cleaning. Recently, I purchased some silk shantung from India, and pre-washed. After numerous rinses, it was still releasing a lot of dye. Yes, there are things you can do to stop dye from running, but since it was for something that would be used long after my death, it was returned to the vendor. 5. Many of you are enchanted with all the new threads in many colors, sometimes with mixtures of different fibers from various sources. These will challenge the lace conservators of the 21st century. I have told you that synthetics break down and try to revert to their original form. The report I gave you of the 20th C. costumes lecture at the Costume Society of America's annual meeting in 2011 made that very apparent. Modern items of attire or embellishment actually dissolve, change color, completely lose elasticity, become sticky, become brittle, etc. Conservators of the future will have many more challenges than we can imagine. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 9/12/2012 10:22:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: Laundry is one of my least favorite subjects--but there was an interesting article in the Erie Times-News last week about a product called pureWash. One of the columnists tested it for a month gave it high marks. According to the article, this is an electronic gizmo that uses ozone or O3 to clean garments using only cold water little or no detergent in your regular washing machine. After checking other online sources, it sounds like an interesting product apparently the process itself has been used commercially for some time because it effectively kills bacteria. There was no mention of the process itself harming fibers so I will wait to hear from Jeri on that side of the question! Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace
