Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
That's a direct drive on the spindle? - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 10:56 AM Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I can feel that my free time is becoming more limited, so I figured I'd finish the X and A axes today. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: homemade rotary table
I really like your top and cam clamp. How are you going to control the degrees? Say four example you need 10 cuts. -Tim - Original Message - From: Andrew Martin To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 4:27 PM Subject: homemade rotary table Ok...I finally got a chance to play with my HF rotary table. It turned out working great! I started by making a table that mounted to the underside of the rails. I did have to rabbet the table on the ends to bring the table up slightly so the teflon table i mounted on top wouldn't hit the rails. I then took a scrap piece of T-track and inserted it into the table in an orientation that allowed the shaft of the rotary table to line up with the center line of the chuck i currently have installed on the mill. Once i had the HF rotary table mounted, I removed it and drilled out the shaft and tapped a 1/4-20 thread then inserted a 1/4 bolt. I then used a 7/16 socket with an extension and mounted it in the chuck and...whoala...my HF rotary table can now link up with my X-axis. Now the 3 table was a little small, so I had some teflon laying around. I mounted it to the rotary table using the t-track in the table and then counter sunk the nylon lock nuts. Once i had it mounted, I used the mill to cut it about 11 round, then used my t-track bit to cut t-track in the teflon. Surprisingly, the hysteresis in the HF rotary table isn't bad. You can actually adjust the hysteresis by adjusting a set screw on the side of it which pushes the worm gear attached to the shaft closer to the driven gear. However, the more you push it into the driven gear, the harder it is to turn, so I had to pick a happy-medium. The HF table has a high gear ratio of 36:1 so doing any spiraled rosettes is out of the question until i get the .25 gear reducer for the mill. But until then, I'm sure i'll have some fun with it. Andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
Dustin How did you couple the motor to the legacy drive spindle? I am playing with something like your idea here ,but not on the CNC side of this scale. Did you make a coupler to fit over the notches of the spindle drive or did you just tap into the screw insert and us a jam nut? Nice job, Im just curious. Thanks. C.A.G. - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 1:56 PM Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I can feel that my free time is becoming more limited, so I figured I'd finish the X and A axes today. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
Pro's of the direct drive is no backlash. My concern is lack of power. That's why most people have timing belts or gearheads (gear heads designed to work with stepper motors) I believe legacy's first cnc version used laser cut gears and I'm sure that was a source of backlash. Their latest use gearheads, and I don't know what the Arty is using. Does anyone else know? I also noticed that the motor mount for the A axis is mounted to the outside rails. If it was mounted to the inner you would be able to tilt and raise the table. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 3:36 PM Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Tim, yes, direct drive, is that a problem? I noticed others going with a belt and pulley system. Is there a reason for that? Curt, each axis is attached by a spider shaft coupling, the x, y and z are 5/8 and the spindle (A) is 3/4. I reversed the X axis leadscrew so that I could attach the coupling without interference from the square end that the handle attaches to. Other than that, the couplers just slide on and lock with an allen screw. Photo 1: X-axis coupled to stepper. Photo 2: Opposite end of X-axis. Photo 3: Spindle. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
I don't think you will have enough torque with the 1:1 ratio on the A axis. On the Joe's Hybrid CNC I built with Burney we used a 1200 oz/inch motor with a 3:1 ratio. On the Legacy that we CNCed we used a 620 oz/inch with a 3:1 ratio and it wasn't enough. Rich Goldner Indexer Wizards http://WizardsbyRich.yolasite.com http://wizardsbyrich.yolasite.com/ From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dustin Yoder Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 6:36 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Tim, yes, direct drive, is that a problem? I noticed others going with a belt and pulley system. Is there a reason for that? Curt, each axis is attached by a spider shaft coupling, the x, y and z are 5/8 and the spindle (A) is 3/4. I reversed the X axis leadscrew so that I could attach the coupling without interference from the square end that the handle attaches to. Other than that, the couplers just slide on and lock with an allen screw. Photo 1: X-axis coupled to stepper. Photo 2: Opposite end of X-axis. Photo 3: Spindle. _ To: legacy-ornamental-mills+dig...@googlegroups.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills+nore...@googlegroups.com Subject: Digest for legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com - 11 Messages in 4 Topics Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 06:03:26 + Today's Topic Summary Group: http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/topics * Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC [2 Updates] * How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? [3 Updates] * 20% Sale on Legacy CNC [3 Updates] * Slop in my 900 [3 Updates] Topic: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/t/4aba35b8f169abd7 Dustin Yoder dustinyo...@hotmail.com Jul 07 09:24PM -0400 ^ I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was not eliminated, it was reduced. Do you think I could improve my result if I add another rear carriage slider and put them on each side of the carriage rather than having one in the middle like I have now? Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net Jul 07 08:17PM -0700 ^ I think I would not increase the friction on the opposite side of the lead screw. Leave that to float. If the round bushings on the rails are not touching the top and bottom of the groove, I'd be willing to bet they have divots in them. You might want to rotate them to a new spot fresh spot. This is the plain round barrel type, not the top hat ones. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 6:24 PM Subject: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was not eliminated, it was reduced. Do you think I could improve my result if I add another rear carriage slider and put them on each side of the carriage rather than having one in the middle like I have now? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the
Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
I knew the Artisans used a gear head and that's the best way to go in my opinion. I'm really curious what is behind the cover of the arty and mini arty. -Tim - Original Message - From: Jeff Becker To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 3:52 PM Subject: Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC You are right that Legacy's early CNC's uses gears, and my artisan has a gear head, One question I had is how do you plan to index A axis. I also have the directions for converting Legacy to a cnc if your interested send me a fax number and I will fax them to you Jeff -- From: Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 6:49:00 PM Subject: Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Pro's of the direct drive is no backlash. My concern is lack of power. That's why most people have timing belts or gearheads (gear heads designed to work with stepper motors) I believe legacy's first cnc version used laser cut gears and I'm sure that was a source of backlash. Their latest use gearheads, and I don't know what the Arty is using. Does anyone else know? I also noticed that the motor mount for the A axis is mounted to the outside rails. If it was mounted to the inner you would be able to tilt and raise the table. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 3:36 PM Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Tim, yes, direct drive, is that a problem? I noticed others going with a belt and pulley system. Is there a reason for that? Curt, each axis is attached by a spider shaft coupling, the x, y and z are 5/8 and the spindle (A) is 3/4. I reversed the X axis leadscrew so that I could attach the coupling without interference from the square end that the handle attaches to. Other than that, the couplers just slide on and lock with an allen screw. Photo 1: X-axis coupled to stepper. Photo 2: Opposite end of X-axis. Photo 3: Spindle. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
With the cnc up grade to my 1500 the gear from the motor had about 24 teeth, the other gear had about 97, so you are looking at about a 4 to 1 ratio - Original Message - From: Rich rgold...@iname.com To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 4:05:06 PM Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I don’t think you will have enough torque with the 1:1 ratio on the A axis. On the Joe’s Hybrid CNC I built with Burney we used a 1200 oz/inch motor with a 3:1 ratio. On the Legacy that we CNCed we used a 620 oz/inch with a 3:1 ratio and it wasn’t enough. Rich Goldner Indexer Wizards http://WizardsbyRich.yolasite.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dustin Yoder Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 6:36 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Tim, yes, direct drive, is that a problem? I noticed others going with a belt and pulley system. Is there a reason for that? Curt, each axis is attached by a spider shaft coupling, the x, y and z are 5/8 and the spindle (A) is 3/4. I reversed the X axis leadscrew so that I could attach the coupling without interference from the square end that the handle attaches to. Other than that, the couplers just slide on and lock with an allen screw. Photo 1: X-axis coupled to stepper. Photo 2: Opposite end of X-axis. Photo 3: Spindle. To: legacy-ornamental-mills+dig...@googlegroups.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills+nore...@googlegroups.com Subject: Digest for legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com - 11 Messages in 4 Topics Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 06:03:26 + Today's Topic Summary Group: http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/topics • Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC [2 Updates] • How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? [3 Updates] • 20% Sale on Legacy CNC [3 Updates] • Slop in my 900 [3 Updates] Topic: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Dustin Yoder dustinyo...@hotmail.com Jul 07 09:24PM -0400 ^ I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was not eliminated, it was reduced. Do you think I could improve my result if I add another rear carriage slider and put them on each side of the carriage rather than having one in the middle like I have now? Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net Jul 07 08:17PM -0700 ^ I think I would not increase the friction on the opposite side of the lead screw. Leave that to float. If the round bushings on the rails are not touching the top and bottom of the groove, I'd be willing to bet they have divots in them. You might want to rotate them to a new spot fresh spot. This is the plain round barrel type, not the top hat ones. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 6:24 PM Subject: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was
Re: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC
Thanks all for all the advice on the gears and stepper sizes and practical advice in general. I'm worried about stalling too, which is why I tried to be as minimal as possible with the physical changes to the Legacy in case it does not work out. At any rate, hopefully I'll be able to get everything running this week so we can see what happens. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: homemade rotary table
Actually...I just installed new windows in our bedroom and installed some crown molding. Now the boss wants some rosettes for the window trim. So I'll be testing it out on there hopefully later this week. as far as controlling the degrees; since its linked up into the spindle, i plan on using the indexing holes on the gear supplied with the mill. Because the gear ratio of the HF rotary table is 36:1,meaning 1 rotation is 10 degrees, that makes each hole on the 24 hole indexing plate equal to 5/12 or 0.416 degrees. The rotary table has a thumb screw that locks the table in position to keep it from rotating, so I can minimize any movement in the table while cutting. I'm planning on removing the thumb screw and threading a shaft that extends out beyond the teflon table so i can easily lock the table in place without reaching underneath each time. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
