Re: Hello to the Group

['Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

 Hey There, Tim!Thank you.
Bye the way I still have a lot of bones left over, I just need some new ideas 
for designs. And I do have one New MOD that I am playing around with at this 
time. ;-) If all goes well you and everyonewill be seeing it in the neat 
future. Take care.And Good night.
C.A.G.
On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 07:42:02 PM EDT, Timothy Krause 
 wrote:  
 
  
Hello All,
 
 
Yes our site is safe (ornamentalmills.com) I just have not updated the security 
certificate this year. A security certificate lets the browser aware that the 
connection is encrypted. A padlock icon turns on or off in your browser. This 
was a internet safety upgrade several years back. So rest assured I know about 
it and it's safe and I'll get too it. 
 
 
Sure would like to hear and see projects and machine mods. Curt has to be 
running out of bones!
 
 
-Tim
 
PS: Admin, Yoda of manual mills, web head, mass contributor, sole financial, 
controller and owner of ornamentalmills.com and other related domains and 
surviving cancer since 2012, but will never be the same... in case anyone 
doesn't recognize me any more :-)  
 
 
PPS: Not Tim Ziggy! Ha Ha Ha!!!
 
- scratch and sniff 
here --
 
 On 5/11/2024 7:08 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
  
 
 Good morning everyone. 
  Just a friendly note to say hello. The LOM users group has been a little bit 
slow as of late. We have a number of new members this month. But sadly  many of 
them have not posted yet. If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing 
problems they have figured out how to fix.  This is the prefect time to let  
everyone know.  I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here 
has  not seen before on the rotatory table.  
  

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/cfeb7c53-ca53-451c-a67b-6a419fdc19b4%40comcast.net.
  

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/1495854031.838674.1715487485253%40mail.yahoo.com.

Re: Hello to the Group

[Timothy Krause]

Hello All,

Yes our site is safe (ornamentalmills.com) I just have not updated the 
security certificate this year. A security certificate lets the browser 
aware that the connection is encrypted. A padlock icon turns on or off 
in your browser. This was a internet safety upgrade several years back. 
So rest assured I know about it and it's safe and I'll get too it.


Sure would like to hear and see projects and machine mods. Curt has to 
be running out of bones!


-Tim

PS: Admin, Yoda of manual mills, web head, mass contributor, sole 
financial, controller and owner of ornamentalmills.com and other related 
domains and surviving cancer since 2012, but will never be the same... 
in case anyone doesn't recognize me any more :-)


PPS: Not Tim Ziggy! Ha Ha Ha!!!

- scratch 
and sniff here --


On 5/11/2024 7:08 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:

Good morning everyone.

Just a friendly note to say hello.
The LOM users group has been a little bit slow as of late.
We have a number of new members this month. But sadly
many of them have not posted yet.
If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing problems
they have figured out how to fix.  This is the prefect time to let
everyone know.
I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here has
not seen before on the rotatory table.



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy 
Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/cfeb7c53-ca53-451c-a67b-6a419fdc19b4%40comcast.net.

Re: Hello to the Group

[Tim Ziegler]

Yup it is

On Sat, May 11, 2024, 5:18 PM  wrote:

> Do not fear the warning that comes up when you click on curts link it is
> safe to continue to the site
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 12, 2024 12:08 AM
> *To:* Legacy ornamental mills 
> *Subject:* Hello to the Group
>
>
>
> Good morning everyone.
>
>
>
> Just a friendly note to say hello.
>
> The LOM users group has been a little bit slow as of late.
>
> We have a number of new members this month. But sadly
>
> many of them have not posted yet.
>
> If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing problems
>
> they have figured out how to fix.  This is the prefect time to let
>
> everyone know.
>
> I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here has
>
> not seen before on the rotatory table.
>
> https://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/rotary%20table.htm
>
> *Russ V*
>
>   If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot glue is the way.
> If you are going to do a lot of the same size you can build a table for
> them.  I built a second table that I double tape to the original table. My
> original table I never use directly.  I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center
> and make a secondary table that I attach with double sided tape.  This hole
> helps me quickly align my rotary table to the router and to align the
> second table to the first table by using a 1/4" dowel.  To make the rosette
> hold down table I screwed blocks on three sides of center to hold the
> rosette centered.  The 4th side is on a pivot that when closed I lock it
> with the 5th swivel block and a dowel pin to hold it locked.  If you are
> going to cut on the outside
> to make it round then use a small piece of DS tape to hold the piece once
> you cut it loose.  If they are already cut to size and shape the you only
> need to lock it in the table.  I used sand paper on the stationary blocks
> and a nail cut off  on the pivot block to help hold the rosette.  I am
> thinking that now I am going to make a table with sliding track going out
> in 4 directions from center so I can then adjust the blocks to fit any size
> rosette.
>
>  I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table to cut blocks
> round.  On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on my
> oscillating sander to smooth the edges and get the final diameter.  Much
> Much Safer.  Use the rotary table to cut the surface only not all the way
> thru.  Screws, hot glue, DS tape are all good and well, but when I do
> rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a time.  The less screwing the better (
> in this case).  With my table, I can change out the rosette in seconds . .
> . no holes, no hot glue residue to clean up, and no DS tape to peel.
> Again, I think  I will redo this table with sliding tracks, I then can set
> up to do any size rosette ( or box lid).  The DS tape to hold the secondary
> table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a dowel in the center.
> The tape only hold the table from spinning.   I guess I could screw the
> secondary table down but I like to keep  my primary table clean with only
> the center hole so it will last.  I think I am going to put a Formica
> laminate on it to make it more durable and let DS tape stick better.
> The center hole technique to center everything is really handy.  Once I
> center the table, everything can be centered quicker too.   For example, If
> I am going to center several object of the same size, I make one with a
> hole in the center so I can then set it in place with a dowel.  Then I DS
> tape cleats in place on two sides.  Now, every piece I set, whether with
> hot glue, DS tape or whatever, the cleats will help me align to center
> quicker.
>
> *Russv*
>
> As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see there are lines
> drawn on the table.  To create lines is as follows:
>
> After centering the machine, put a bit with a point in the router.  Put
> the router over center, lock the carriage down on the x axis,  and plunge
> down to barely touch the table.  Start the router and plunge down.  Then
> slide the router along the y axis in one direction to the outside edge to
> make a score line.  Come back to center.  Do not go the other direction on
> the y axis.  Turn the handle on the rotary table one full turn and slide
> the router along the y axis again and back to center.  Do this 8 times and
> you
> should see 4 long lines on your table at 45 degrees apart.  The reason you
> don't go both directions off the y axis is so that now when you look at the
> lines, they should look straight all along the line even though you drew it
> by two operations.  If the lines don't look straight, then you weren't
> centered.
> If everything looks straight, then you are good to go.  Make sure you
> always line the router to this center point and you will be good to go. To
> align a block of wood is simple now.  If the block of wood has 90 

RE: Hello to the Group

[bulkeley]

Do not fear the warning that comes up when you click on curts link it is safe 
to continue to the site

 

Bill

 

From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 12:08 AM
To: Legacy ornamental mills 
Subject: Hello to the Group

 

Good morning everyone.

 

Just a friendly note to say hello.

The LOM users group has been a little bit slow as of late.

We have a number of new members this month. But sadly 

many of them have not posted yet.

If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing problems

they have figured out how to fix.  This is the prefect time to let 

everyone know. 

I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here has 

not seen before on the rotatory table. 

https://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/rotary%20table.htm


Russ V

   

  If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot glue is the way.  If 
you are going to do a lot of the same size you can build a table for them.  I 
built a second table that I double tape to the original table. My original 
table I never use directly.  I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center and make a 
secondary table that I attach with double sided tape.  This hole helps me 
quickly align my rotary table to the router and to align the second table to 
the first table by using a 1/4" dowel.  To make the rosette hold down table I 
screwed blocks on three sides of center to hold the rosette centered.  The 4th 
side is on a pivot that when closed I lock it with the 5th swivel block and a 
dowel pin to hold it locked.  If you are going to cut on the outside
to make it round then use a small piece of DS tape to hold the piece once you 
cut it loose.  If they are already cut to size and shape the you only need to 
lock it in the table.  I used sand paper on the stationary blocks and a nail 
cut off  on the pivot block to help hold the rosette.  I am thinking that now I 
am going to make a table with sliding track going out in 4 directions from 
center so I can then adjust the blocks to fit any size rosette.  

 I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table to cut blocks round.  
On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on my oscillating sander to 
smooth the edges and get the final diameter.  Much Much Safer.  Use the rotary 
table to cut the surface only not all the way thru.  Screws, hot glue, DS tape 
are all good and well, but when I do rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a 
time.  The less screwing the better ( in this case).  With my table, I can 
change out the rosette in seconds . . . no holes, no hot glue residue to clean 
up, and no DS tape to peel.  Again, I think  I will redo this table with 
sliding tracks, I then can set up to do any size rosette ( or box lid).  The DS 
tape to hold the secondary table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a 
dowel in the center.  The tape only hold the table from spinning.   I guess I 
could screw the
secondary table down but I like to keep  my primary table clean with only  the 
center hole so it will last.  I think I am going to put a Formica laminate on 
it to make it more durable and let DS tape stick better.  
The center hole technique to center everything is really handy.  Once I center 
the table, everything can be centered quicker too.   For example, If I am going 
to center several object of the same size, I make one with a hole in the center 
so I can then set it in place with a dowel.  Then I DS tape cleats in place on 
two sides.  Now, every piece I set, whether with hot glue, DS tape or whatever, 
the cleats will help me align to center quicker.

Russv

   

As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see there are lines 
drawn on the table.  To create lines is as follows:

After centering the machine, put a bit with a point in the router.  Put the 
router over center, lock the carriage down on the x axis,  and plunge down to 
barely touch the table.  Start the router and plunge down.  Then slide the 
router along the y axis in one direction to the outside edge to make a score 
line.  Come back to center.  Do not go the other direction on the y axis.  Turn 
the handle on the rotary table one full turn and slide the router along the y 
axis again and back to center.  Do this 8 times and you
should see 4 long lines on your table at 45 degrees apart.  The reason you 
don't go both directions off the y axis is so that now when you look at the 
lines, they should look straight all along the line even though you drew it by 
two operations.  If the lines don't look straight, then you weren't centered. 
If everything looks straight, then you are good to go.  Make sure you always 
line the router to this center point and you will be good to go. To align a 
block of wood is simple now.  If the block of wood has 90 degree corners then 
when you line up all 4 corners on the 

Hello to the Group

['Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

Good morning everyone.
Just a friendly note to say hello.The LOM users group has been a little bit 
slow as of late.We have a number of new members this month. But sadly many of 
them have not posted yet.If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing 
problemsthey have figured out how to fix.  This is the prefect time to let 
everyone know. I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here 
has not seen before on the rotatory table. 
https://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/rotary%20table.htm
| 
Russ V



  If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot glue is the way.  If 
you are going to do a lot of the same size you can build a table for them.  I 
built a second table that I double tape to the original table. My original 
table I never use directly.  I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center and make a 
secondary table that I attach with double sided tape.  This hole helps me 
quickly align my rotary table to the router and to align the second table to 
the first table by using a 1/4" dowel.  To make the rosette hold down table I 
screwed blocks on three sides of center to hold the rosette centered.  The 4th 
side is on a pivot that when closed I lock it with the 5th swivel block and a 
dowel pin to hold it locked.  If you are going to cut on the outside
to make it round then use a small piece of DS tape to hold the piece once you 
cut it loose.  If they are already cut to size and shape the you only need to 
lock it in the table.  I used sand paper on the stationary blocks and a nail 
cut off  on the pivot block to help hold the rosette.  I am thinking that now I 
am going to make a table with sliding track going out in 4 directions from 
center so I can then adjust the blocks to fit any size rosette.  

 I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table to cut blocks round.  
On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on my oscillating sander to 
smooth the edges and get the final diameter.  Much Much Safer.  Use the rotary 
table to cut the surface only not all the way thru.  Screws, hot glue, DS tape 
are all good and well, but when I do rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a 
time.  The less screwing the better ( in this case).  With my table, I can 
change out the rosette in seconds . . . no holes, no hot glue residue to clean 
up, and no DS tape to peel.  Again, I think  I will redo this table with 
sliding tracks, I then can set up to do any size rosette ( or box lid).  The DS 
tape to hold the secondary table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a 
dowel in the center.  The tape only hold the table from spinning.   I guess I 
could screw the
secondary table down but I like to keep  my primary table clean with only  the 
center hole so it will last.  I think I am going to put a Formica laminate on 
it to make it more durable and let DS tape stick better.  
The center hole technique to center everything is really handy.  Once I center 
the table, everything can be centered quicker too.   For example, If I am going 
to center several object of the same size, I make one with a hole in the center 
so I can then set it in place with a dowel.  Then I DS tape cleats in place on 
two sides.  Now, every piece I set, whether with hot glue, DS tape or whatever, 
the cleats will help me align to center quicker.

Russv




As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see there are lines 
drawn on the table.  To create lines is as follows:

After centering the machine, put a bit with a point in the router.  Put the 
router over center, lock the carriage down on the x axis,  and plunge down to 
barely touch the table.  Start the router and plunge down.  Then slide the 
router along the y axis in one direction to the outside edge to make a score 
line.  Come back to center.  Do not go the other direction on the y axis.  Turn 
the handle on the rotary table one full turn and slide the router along the y 
axis again and back to center.  Do this 8 times and you
should see 4 long lines on your table at 45 degrees apart.  The reason you 
don't go both directions off the y axis is so that now when you look at the 
lines, they should look straight all along the line even though you drew it by 
two operations.  If the lines don't look straight, then you weren't centered. 
If everything looks straight, then you are good to go.  Make sure you always 
line the router to this center point and you will be good to go. To align a 
block of wood is simple now.  If the block of wood has 90 degree corners then 
when you line up all 4 corners on the lines on your table you are centered.  
This still works on an octagon shape also.  make sure you use a pen in your 
score lines to make them easier to see.

Curt George




This set up, Is just a little moderation from the original unit, (I think the 
table had to much play in the workings from the factory, so I figured a way to 
tighten up the whole unit,) It has  worked well for me so far. I can use the 
handle and have more