Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Peter Vollan]

FYI, pulses are not DTMF.

On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 at 03:37, Cedric Amand  wrote:

> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>
> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
> appreciate.
> I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
> here is what I came up with.
>
> - I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
> - My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with
> other modems of the era or plain analog phones.
> - With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is
> completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, the
> M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) and the
> program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).
>
> From there I tried;
>
> - Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's support
> here) ; problem is the same
> - Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !
>
> Then obviously, what I tried;
>
> - The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can give
> you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any use the
> the community)
>
> Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.
>
> This changes a lot of things.
>
> The TELCO program changes a lot !
> Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL" (it
> allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all anymore (?!)
> Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.
>
> I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX,
> by using the ANSW mode in the M102.
> I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can
> see the characters I type on both sides.
> (it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from
> now on I can manage !)
>
> (So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever
> helps someone.)
>
> Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS to
> use REX#
> Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
> Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is
> there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)
> What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
> Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO
> disappeared when I switched bios ?
>
> That's a lot of questions I know :)
>
> Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph  a
> écrit :
>
>> Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find out
>> the history.
>> Thx Steve
>>
>>>
>>
>>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Brian K. White]

Excellent! Mystery solved!

I would love to add any other language/country roms to my Y2K page, but 
I don't know how you can dump it without an eprom programmer.


I found one rom-to-serial program but I think it probably only does the 
option rom not the main rom. I haven't tried it yet.

https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/eme/romcom.100

I thought Steve or someone posted a BASIC program here that could do it 
but it was a while ago and I can't find it now.


I don't think what you have is actually a general "European" version 
like I was saying, but probably a more specific region, possibly even 
specifically Belgium. I found I also had a UK version of T102 as well as 
US. And probably that UK version isn't for all of Europe.


The rex docs are explicit and clear that it doesn't support any European 
models. I bet it's not trivial to support each different version. Plus 
Steve would probably need to have an example of each unit to test. We 
may not even have rom maps for the EU roms for the different machines, 
which he would also need.


The previous owner probably tried to use a US rom simply to be able to 
use REX#, and was willing to accept having some things break in order to 
get that.


--
bkw

On 2/4/22 06:37, Cedric Amand wrote:

Hello Steve, Hello everyone

Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I 
really appreciate.
I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and 
here is what I came up with.


- I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
- My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with 
other modems of the era or plain analog phones.
- With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is 
completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, 
the M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) 
and the program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).


 From there I tried;

- Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's 
support here) ; problem is the same

- Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !

Then obviously, what I tried;

- The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can 
give you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any 
use the the community)


Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.

This changes a lot of things.

The TELCO program changes a lot !
Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL" 
(it allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all 
anymore (?!)

Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.

I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX, 
by using the ANSW mode in the M102.
I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can 
see the characters I type on both sides.
(it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from 
now on I can manage !)


(So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever 
helps someone.)


Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS 
to use REX#

Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is 
there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)

What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO 
disappeared when I switched bios ?


That's a lot of questions I know :)

Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph > a écrit :


Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find
out the history.
Thx Steve

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Cedric Amand]

Sure, anything that can help the community,

CAT NO 26-3803
Serial 701400021

I just wanted to know if my problem was hardware of software, it seems to
be software - clearly the US rom breaks the modem ( and interestingly, it
also adds features like F2 pulse dialing in TELCOM, which my EU ROM does
not have. (I said DMTF in my previous mail, I meant PULSE of course))

I'll probably revert to US ROM & REX# once I've documented (probably a
video) the process of reviving and making, real, proper, modem calls with
this equipment and a few others. I just find it cute to have this wok for
real again. I don't know the situation in the US but here it's becoming
close to impossible to even have a proper PSTN line (most are VOIP on top
of cable modems), obviously none of them support pulse dialing anymore, so
well, my project "to make it work again like back in the day" is a
challenge of its own.


Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 13:42, Stephen Adolph  a
écrit :

> A snip from the notes section at the rex# wiki:
>
>
>   Notes
>   =
>   Model 100:
>   * In Europe and UK, and probably elsewhere, there are newer versions of 
> M100 that have different boards.
>   * Model numbers are 26-3801B and 26-3802B.
>   * REX# does not function correctly in these models, due to the 
> significantly different main ROM.
>
> I am recalling that the work to get REX# to support these versions of M100
> is significant.  It would require identifying all the rom calls and
> correcting them, and testing them.  Basically documenting this new main rom.
>
> You say this is a T102.  Can you tell us the model number?
>
> It makes sense that if there is a B variant of the M100, with a different
> ROM then there is probably something similar for T102.
>
> It would be tricky and crash prone to try and switch main roms with a rex
> installed.  You would have to deinstall rexmgr in order to use the original
> rom.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve
>
>
> On Friday, February 4, 2022, Stephen Adolph  wrote:
>
>> The EU rom is really really different.  Rex doesnt work with that rom.
>> Previous owner valued rex more than modem.
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 4, 2022, Cedric Amand  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>>>
>>> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I
>>> really appreciate.
>>> I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
>>> here is what I came up with.
>>>
>>> - I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
>>> - My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with
>>> other modems of the era or plain analog phones.
>>> - With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is
>>> completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, the
>>> M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) and the
>>> program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).
>>>
>>> From there I tried;
>>>
>>> - Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's
>>> support here) ; problem is the same
>>> - Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !
>>>
>>> Then obviously, what I tried;
>>>
>>> - The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can
>>> give you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any
>>> use the the community)
>>>
>>> Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.
>>>
>>> This changes a lot of things.
>>>
>>> The TELCO program changes a lot !
>>> Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL"
>>> (it allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all anymore
>>> (?!)
>>> Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.
>>>
>>> I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX,
>>> by using the ANSW mode in the M102.
>>> I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can
>>> see the characters I type on both sides.
>>> (it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from
>>> now on I can manage !)
>>>
>>> (So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever
>>> helps someone.)
>>>
>>> Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS
>>> to use REX#
>>> Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
>>> Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is
>>> there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)
>>> What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
>>> Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO
>>> disappeared when I switched bios ?
>>>
>>> That's a lot of questions I know :)
>>>
>>> Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph  a
>>> écrit :
>>>
 Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find
 out the history.
 Thx Steve

>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Stephen Adolph]

A snip from the notes section at the rex# wiki:


  Notes
  =
  Model 100:
  * In Europe and UK, and probably elsewhere, there are newer versions
of M100 that have different boards.
  * Model numbers are 26-3801B and 26-3802B.
  * REX# does not function correctly in these models, due to the
significantly different main ROM.

I am recalling that the work to get REX# to support these versions of M100
is significant.  It would require identifying all the rom calls and
correcting them, and testing them.  Basically documenting this new main rom.

You say this is a T102.  Can you tell us the model number?

It makes sense that if there is a B variant of the M100, with a different
ROM then there is probably something similar for T102.

It would be tricky and crash prone to try and switch main roms with a rex
installed.  You would have to deinstall rexmgr in order to use the original
rom.

Thanks.

Steve


On Friday, February 4, 2022, Stephen Adolph  wrote:

> The EU rom is really really different.  Rex doesnt work with that rom.
> Previous owner valued rex more than modem.
> Steve
>
>
> On Friday, February 4, 2022, Cedric Amand  wrote:
>
>> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>>
>> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
>> appreciate.
>> I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
>> here is what I came up with.
>>
>> - I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
>> - My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with
>> other modems of the era or plain analog phones.
>> - With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is
>> completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, the
>> M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) and the
>> program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).
>>
>> From there I tried;
>>
>> - Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's
>> support here) ; problem is the same
>> - Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !
>>
>> Then obviously, what I tried;
>>
>> - The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can
>> give you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any
>> use the the community)
>>
>> Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.
>>
>> This changes a lot of things.
>>
>> The TELCO program changes a lot !
>> Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL" (it
>> allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all anymore (?!)
>> Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.
>>
>> I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX,
>> by using the ANSW mode in the M102.
>> I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can
>> see the characters I type on both sides.
>> (it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from
>> now on I can manage !)
>>
>> (So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever
>> helps someone.)
>>
>> Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS
>> to use REX#
>> Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
>> Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is
>> there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)
>> What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
>> Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO
>> disappeared when I switched bios ?
>>
>> That's a lot of questions I know :)
>>
>> Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph  a
>> écrit :
>>
>>> Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find out
>>> the history.
>>> Thx Steve
>>>

>>>
>>>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Stephen Adolph]

The EU rom is really really different.  Rex doesnt work with that rom.
Previous owner valued rex more than modem.
Steve


On Friday, February 4, 2022, Cedric Amand  wrote:

> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>
> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
> appreciate.
> I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
> here is what I came up with.
>
> - I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
> - My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with
> other modems of the era or plain analog phones.
> - With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is
> completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, the
> M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) and the
> program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).
>
> From there I tried;
>
> - Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's support
> here) ; problem is the same
> - Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !
>
> Then obviously, what I tried;
>
> - The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can give
> you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any use the
> the community)
>
> Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.
>
> This changes a lot of things.
>
> The TELCO program changes a lot !
> Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL" (it
> allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all anymore (?!)
> Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.
>
> I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX,
> by using the ANSW mode in the M102.
> I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can
> see the characters I type on both sides.
> (it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from
> now on I can manage !)
>
> (So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever
> helps someone.)
>
> Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS to
> use REX#
> Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
> Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is
> there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)
> What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
> Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO
> disappeared when I switched bios ?
>
> That's a lot of questions I know :)
>
> Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph  a
> écrit :
>
>> Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find out
>> the history.
>> Thx Steve
>>
>>>
>>
>>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Cedric Amand]

Hello Steve, Hello everyone

Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
appreciate.
I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
here is what I came up with.

- I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
- My little homemade PABX (phone exchange) is flawless, it works with other
modems of the era or plain analog phones.
- With a "US" BIOS (not sure which) and the REX#, the modem part is
completely broken. This is especially obvious if you hit F4 in TELCOM, the
M102 start to make awful noise (without cable, just on it's own!) and the
program seems crashed (needs reset/reboot).

>From there I tried;

- Removing the REX# (which I wouldn't have done without everyone's support
here) ; problem is the same
- Interestingly, "TERM" (F4) in TELCOM also still crashes !

Then obviously, what I tried;

- The seller did gave me my original BIOS, just marked "EU" (if I can give
you a version i'd gladly do it, I can also dump it if that's of any use the
the community)

Now... I guess I'm "stock" again.

This changes a lot of things.

The TELCO program changes a lot !
Interestingly, is has no more F1 or F2 features, F2 was called "CALL" (it
allowed me to do DTMF pulses), the feature is not there at all anymore (?!)
Hitting F4 (TERM) does not make any noise now, and does not crash.

I was able to make a link between my USR 56K and the M102, thru my PABX, by
using the ANSW mode in the M102.
I have a proper 300bps link, hows "CONNECT" on the USrobotics, and i can
see the characters I type on both sides.
(it's not yet a real useful communication but the basics are there, from
now on I can manage !)

(So I wanted to explain all that in great details first in case it ever
helps someone.)

Then the question remains ; *why* did my original owner change the BIOS to
use REX#
Is that mandatory ? Wdyt Steve ?
Is there a way I could put a "name" on my BIOSes (version, revision ? is
there a place or a CALL where this shows up ?)
What would happen if I put back the REX# with my current ("EU") BIOS ?
Does anyone have any idea why the F1/F2 (CALL) functions in TELCO
disappeared when I switched bios ?

That's a lot of questions I know :)

Le ven. 4 févr. 2022 à 12:04, Stephen Adolph  a
écrit :

> Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find out
> the history.
> Thx Steve
>
>>
>
>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Brian K. White]

Disregard my last post. I'm an idiot and didn't notice that you aren't 
Cedric. Sorry!

--
bkw

On 2/4/22 04:23, jonathan.y...@telia.com wrote:

Hi,

I have a US M100 but Stephen wanted to be sure I had a US model before he sold 
me the REXCPM, and he said it wouldn't work in a European model.  He didn't 
mention selling me a 'European' version so I assume one didn't exist back then.

I think there are some hardware differences as well, and he sent me some 
pictures.

Jonathan

Original Message
From : b.kenyo...@gmail.com
Date : 2022-02-04 - 03:06 (CEST)
To : m...@bitchin100.com
Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.

I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong
rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North
American main rom does not match the European hardware, and the modem is
definitely one of the things, like the keyboard, which is different
between countries.

You only do something hacky like that fully accepting that you are
breaking some things in order to get some other things. But you didn't
make that choice, you're stuck with something someone else did and then
sold to you.

I would definitely start with putting the unit back to stock condition,
meaning put an EU main rom back in and remove the rex#, just as a first
diagnostic step just to establish a baseline even if you want to go back
to the hacked-up condition later.

Did the seller at least supply the original rom with the unit? If not,
it might be taped inside.

I don't know of any copies of the EU rom for download. Asking here or on
two facebook groups is probably your best chance to find one.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Model.T.Computers

This one in particular has a lot fewer, but mostly European members:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/olivettim10

I think it can be dumped out the serial port with a BASIC program, so
anyone should be able to dump it for you without having to desolder the
chip or use an eprom burner. I'll try to find the basic program for
dumping the rom out the serial port, that way you can make it as easy as
possible for someone to do the favor by having some directions ready to go.

If the REX# really is incompatible with the EU main rom, and Steve can't
produce an EU version of the REX# firmware, then you'll probably just
have to choose one or the other for that unit, either have the hardware
all work properly, or have REX# on that unit.

--
bkw

On 2/3/22 17:40, Cedric Amand wrote:

Thanks, i'll try all that.
I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only
use it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that,
so it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would
be "US minded".

  From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this
list) had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most
likely a US one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from
what he told me, don't quote me on this )

All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.

However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of
this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas,
and there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean
: the thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at
least looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even
less handled by software)

So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the
sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our
particular voltages.
What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec

One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to
emit an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does
that even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire
connected to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have
to reset/reboot)
Is that "normal" ?
That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...


thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog
modem to work :)



Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White mailto:b.kenyo...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

 I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.

 But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
 anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
 see that it made no difference.

 Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?

 Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?

 Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG
 switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)

 Measure the voltage between tip & ring when the the modem is
 on-hook. It
 should be 48vdc

 Mea

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Stephen Adolph]

Cedric, who did you buy it from?  I can go through my emails to find out
the history.
Thx Steve

On Thursday, February 3, 2022, Cedric Amand  wrote:

> Thanks, i'll try all that.
> I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only use
> it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that, so
> it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would be
> "US minded".
>
> From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this
> list) had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most likely
> a US one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from what he told
> me, don't quote me on this )
>
> All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.
>
> However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of
> this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas, and
> there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean : the
> thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at least
> looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even less
> handled by software)
>
> So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the
> sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our
> particular voltages.
> What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec
>
> One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to emit
> an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does that
> even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire connected
> to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have to
> reset/reboot)
> Is that "normal" ?
> That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...
>
>
> thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog
> modem to work :)
>
>
>
> Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White  a
> écrit :
>
>> I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.
>>
>> But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
>> anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
>> see that it made no difference.
>>
>> Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?
>>
>> Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?
>>
>> Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG
>> switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)
>>
>> Measure the voltage between tip & ring when the the modem is on-hook. It
>> should be 48vdc
>>
>> Measure the current on either tip or ring when the modem is off-hook. It
>> should be about 20ma, at around 9vdc (actually a wide range from 3 to 12)
>>
>
>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Brian K. White]

I thought you said it was a Belgian Model 102? Now it's a US Model 100?

Or are you just saying you also own a US Model 100?

Did you also try the US Model 100 or any other machines on your POTS setup?

--
bkw

On 2/4/22 04:23, jonathan.y...@telia.com wrote:

Hi,

I have a US M100 but Stephen wanted to be sure I had a US model before he sold 
me the REXCPM, and he said it wouldn't work in a European model.  He didn't 
mention selling me a 'European' version so I assume one didn't exist back then.

I think there are some hardware differences as well, and he sent me some 
pictures.

Jonathan

Original Message
From : b.kenyo...@gmail.com
Date : 2022-02-04 - 03:06 (CEST)
To : m...@bitchin100.com
Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.

I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong
rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North
American main rom does not match the European hardware, and the modem is
definitely one of the things, like the keyboard, which is different
between countries.

You only do something hacky like that fully accepting that you are
breaking some things in order to get some other things. But you didn't
make that choice, you're stuck with something someone else did and then
sold to you.

I would definitely start with putting the unit back to stock condition,
meaning put an EU main rom back in and remove the rex#, just as a first
diagnostic step just to establish a baseline even if you want to go back
to the hacked-up condition later.

Did the seller at least supply the original rom with the unit? If not,
it might be taped inside.

I don't know of any copies of the EU rom for download. Asking here or on
two facebook groups is probably your best chance to find one.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Model.T.Computers

This one in particular has a lot fewer, but mostly European members:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/olivettim10

I think it can be dumped out the serial port with a BASIC program, so
anyone should be able to dump it for you without having to desolder the
chip or use an eprom burner. I'll try to find the basic program for
dumping the rom out the serial port, that way you can make it as easy as
possible for someone to do the favor by having some directions ready to go.

If the REX# really is incompatible with the EU main rom, and Steve can't
produce an EU version of the REX# firmware, then you'll probably just
have to choose one or the other for that unit, either have the hardware
all work properly, or have REX# on that unit.

--
bkw

On 2/3/22 17:40, Cedric Amand wrote:

Thanks, i'll try all that.
I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only
use it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that,
so it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would
be "US minded".

  From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this
list) had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most
likely a US one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from
what he told me, don't quote me on this )

All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.

However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of
this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas,
and there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean
: the thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at
least looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even
less handled by software)

So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the
sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our
particular voltages.
What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec

One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to
emit an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does
that even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire
connected to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have
to reset/reboot)
Is that "normal" ?
That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...


thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog
modem to work :)



Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White mailto:b.kenyo...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

 I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.

 But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
 anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
 see that it made no difference.

 Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?

 Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?

 Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG
 switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[jonathan.y...@telia.com]

Hi,

I have a US M100 but Stephen wanted to be sure I had a US model before he sold 
me the REXCPM, and he said it wouldn't work in a European model.  He didn't 
mention selling me a 'European' version so I assume one didn't exist back then.

I think there are some hardware differences as well, and he sent me some 
pictures.

Jonathan
>Original Message
>From : b.kenyo...@gmail.com
>Date : 2022-02-04 - 03:06 (CEST)
>To : m...@bitchin100.com
>Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line
>
>Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
>All bets are off in that case.
>
>I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong 
>rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North 
>American main rom does not match the European hardware, and the modem is 
>definitely one of the things, like the keyboard, which is different 
>between countries.
>
>You only do something hacky like that fully accepting that you are 
>breaking some things in order to get some other things. But you didn't 
>make that choice, you're stuck with something someone else did and then 
>sold to you.
>
>I would definitely start with putting the unit back to stock condition, 
>meaning put an EU main rom back in and remove the rex#, just as a first 
>diagnostic step just to establish a baseline even if you want to go back 
>to the hacked-up condition later.
>
>Did the seller at least supply the original rom with the unit? If not, 
>it might be taped inside.
>
>I don't know of any copies of the EU rom for download. Asking here or on 
>two facebook groups is probably your best chance to find one.
>https://www.facebook.com/groups/Model.T.Computers
>
>This one in particular has a lot fewer, but mostly European members:
>https://www.facebook.com/groups/olivettim10
>
>I think it can be dumped out the serial port with a BASIC program, so 
>anyone should be able to dump it for you without having to desolder the 
>chip or use an eprom burner. I'll try to find the basic program for 
>dumping the rom out the serial port, that way you can make it as easy as 
>possible for someone to do the favor by having some directions ready to go.
>
>If the REX# really is incompatible with the EU main rom, and Steve can't 
>produce an EU version of the REX# firmware, then you'll probably just 
>have to choose one or the other for that unit, either have the hardware 
>all work properly, or have REX# on that unit.
>
>-- 
>bkw
>
>On 2/3/22 17:40, Cedric Amand wrote:
>> Thanks, i'll try all that.
>> I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only 
>> use it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that, 
>> so it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would 
>> be "US minded".
>> 
>>  From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this 
>> list) had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most 
>> likely a US one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from 
>> what he told me, don't quote me on this )
>> 
>> All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.
>> 
>> However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of 
>> this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas, 
>> and there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean 
>> : the thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at 
>> least looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even 
>> less handled by software)
>> 
>> So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the 
>> sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our 
>> particular voltages.
>> What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec
>> 
>> One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to 
>> emit an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does 
>> that even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire 
>> connected to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have 
>> to reset/reboot)
>> Is that "normal" ?
>> That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...
>> 
>> 
>> thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog 
>> modem to work :)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White > <mailto:b.kenyo...@gmail.com>> a écrit :
>> 
>> I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.
>> 
>> But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Brian K. White]

Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.

I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong 
rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North 
American main rom does not match the European hardware, and the modem is 
definitely one of the things, like the keyboard, which is different 
between countries.


You only do something hacky like that fully accepting that you are 
breaking some things in order to get some other things. But you didn't 
make that choice, you're stuck with something someone else did and then 
sold to you.


I would definitely start with putting the unit back to stock condition, 
meaning put an EU main rom back in and remove the rex#, just as a first 
diagnostic step just to establish a baseline even if you want to go back 
to the hacked-up condition later.


Did the seller at least supply the original rom with the unit? If not, 
it might be taped inside.


I don't know of any copies of the EU rom for download. Asking here or on 
two facebook groups is probably your best chance to find one.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Model.T.Computers

This one in particular has a lot fewer, but mostly European members:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/olivettim10

I think it can be dumped out the serial port with a BASIC program, so 
anyone should be able to dump it for you without having to desolder the 
chip or use an eprom burner. I'll try to find the basic program for 
dumping the rom out the serial port, that way you can make it as easy as 
possible for someone to do the favor by having some directions ready to go.


If the REX# really is incompatible with the EU main rom, and Steve can't 
produce an EU version of the REX# firmware, then you'll probably just 
have to choose one or the other for that unit, either have the hardware 
all work properly, or have REX# on that unit.


--
bkw

On 2/3/22 17:40, Cedric Amand wrote:

Thanks, i'll try all that.
I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only 
use it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that, 
so it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would 
be "US minded".


 From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this 
list) had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most 
likely a US one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from 
what he told me, don't quote me on this )


All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.

However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of 
this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas, 
and there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean 
: the thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at 
least looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even 
less handled by software)


So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the 
sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our 
particular voltages.

What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec

One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to 
emit an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does 
that even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire 
connected to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have 
to reset/reboot)

Is that "normal" ?
That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...


thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog 
modem to work :)




Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White > a écrit :


I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.

But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
see that it made no difference.

Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?

Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?

Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG
switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)

Measure the voltage between tip & ring when the the modem is
on-hook. It
should be 48vdc

Measure the current on either tip or ring when the modem is
off-hook. It
should be about 20ma, at around 9vdc (actually a wide range from 3
to 12)




--
bkw

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Cedric Amand]

Thanks, i'll try all that.
I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only use
it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that, so
it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would be
"US minded".

>From what I understand, the original owner (which may even be in this list)
had to replace the belgian/european ROM with another ROM, most likely a US
one, to be able to use the REX# ( that's what I got from what he told me,
don't quote me on this )

All these changes could, maybe, break my modem.

However i've been looking at the schematics of the modem part and all of
this is as simple as can be, it's really purely analog in many areas, and
there is no way on earth any of this is software controller. I mean : the
thing doesn't care if the dial tone is 440, 600 Hz or anything (at least
looking at the hardware I see no way this would be measured, even less
handled by software)

So if I take for granted my M102 is a Belgian.european one (it' has the
sticker of the telco!), I guess the electronics where adapted to our
particular voltages.
What could be a possibility if that some of these are now out of spec

One final comment ; if I hit F4 (TERM) in TELCOM, the M102 starts to emit
an awful noise (like if it was connected to a data line !) it does that
even when the M102 is not connected to anything ( I mean, no wire connected
to it at all) It is also, afaics, completely crashed (i have to
reset/reboot)
Is that "normal" ?
That would point to a problem with ROM/REX...


thanks again for taking the time to help weirdo that wants his analog modem
to work :)



Le jeu. 3 févr. 2022 à 23:32, Brian K. White  a
écrit :

> I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.
>
> But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
> anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
> see that it made no difference.
>
> Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?
>
> Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?
>
> Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG
> switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)
>
> Measure the voltage between tip & ring when the the modem is on-hook. It
> should be 48vdc
>
> Measure the current on either tip or ring when the modem is off-hook. It
> should be about 20ma, at around 9vdc (actually a wide range from 3 to 12)
>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Brian K. White]

I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.

But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt 
anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and 
see that it made no difference.


Have you tested the line with a plain analog telephone?

Have you verified the modem cable doesn't have a broken wire?

Since you are talking about dialing vs answering, is the the ANS-ORIG 
switch in the ORIG position? (Answer vs Originate)


Measure the voltage between tip & ring when the the modem is on-hook. It 
should be 48vdc


Measure the current on either tip or ring when the modem is off-hook. It 
should be about 20ma, at around 9vdc (actually a wide range from 3 to 12)


--
bkw


On 2/3/22 07:04, Cedric Amand wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm a new member, out of Belgium, I have a dozen of vintages PCs, I 
especially likes laptops. I'm an electronics engineer which helpes for 
fixing. Thanks for welcoming me and thanks to whoever created this in 
the first place.


I'm trying to make the internal modem of my Tandy/RS Model 102 work again.

I've connected it to a small home phone exchange (pabx) so that I have 
real proper vintage phone lines , but the same problem occurs on my home 
phone line (which is not PSTN anyway, it's an emulated analog line turn 
into voip by a modern cable modem router)


I absolutely wanted to have my own "lab" of proper PSTN lines so that's 
why I have my little PABX from the 90s; which gives me the possiblity to 
experiment with modems.


My problem is ; my model 102 does not pickup the line.
A regular analog phone does, a good old USRobotics Courrier 56K does, 
but the T102 does not.


I have the proper Tandy grey/beige(rather pink now) cable
It's inserted in the right way. My init string (STAT) is starting with 
M, for internal modem


If I put a phone on the gray line, and "pink" in the PABX ; i can hear 
my PABX's dial tone, until I make the M102 dial, in which case the phone 
goes silent (which is normal).


But the PABX doesnt show the line as beeing picked up (a led should turn 
red), I can hear the M102 pulse dialing "in the void", but to no end... 
The PABX supports pulse dial. I tried 10pps and 20pps.


But it seems the problem is not dialing, it's the actual, i'd say 
"electrical" pickup of the line.
It seems either the voltages are not right, or something is not working 
like it should.


I tried BASIC with "CALL 21200" (which pickups the lines) you can hear 
the relay click, but again, the PABX does not see that as someone 
picking up a phone.


I have an European M102 (could that be an issue ?) My "phone line" 
(vintage PABX) is a european (belgian) one.
However the M102 has been "upgraded" by a REX# v2.0 rom by the previous 
owner, that may be an issue (this upgrade was not my doing. I can barely 
use REX.) I'm with TSDOS101


It's unclear if, eventually, the modem section could need a repair 
(recap or smth)
Another possilbity would be that the tone i'm giving it (440Hz over 
here) is not recognized (seems to be 600Hz in the US), but I find this 
unlikely this would be software controlled, and my M102 is a Belgian 
model it even has the "RTT" (telco of the time) sticker on it


I'm out of ideas.
Any help greatly appreciated



--
bkw

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Francesco Messineo]

Hi,
I'm not familiar with the 102, but on the EU Olivetti M10, the
internal modem was disabled by removing a few parts (including the
line transformer) and shorting out the RX operational amplifiers on
the solder side of PCB. I've tried to restore the functionality of the
internal modem of my Olivetti M10 but I'm still missing some bits. By
the way, the internal modem design on these machines were hardwired to
the BELL 103 standard, so it wouldn't be of much use in Europe in the
'80s (nor it would pass any telecom licensing in those
years). On my M10 I've re-calculated the RX and TX filter to work with
CCITT V.21 standard and hacked the PCB to allow the modem IC to use
V.21 modulation instead of the Bell 103 one.
By the way, I have a small VOIP pabx at home with analog to voip
converters, so I can test and use the old modems and the old phones.
HTH
Frank IZ8DWF

On Thu, Feb 3, 2022 at 1:04 PM Cedric Amand  wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm a new member, out of Belgium, I have a dozen of vintages PCs, I 
> especially likes laptops. I'm an electronics engineer which helpes for 
> fixing. Thanks for welcoming me and thanks to whoever created this in the 
> first place.
>
> I'm trying to make the internal modem of my Tandy/RS Model 102 work again.
>
> I've connected it to a small home phone exchange (pabx) so that I have real 
> proper vintage phone lines , but the same problem occurs on my home phone 
> line (which is not PSTN anyway, it's an emulated analog line turn into voip 
> by a modern cable modem router)
>
> I absolutely wanted to have my own "lab" of proper PSTN lines so that's why I 
> have my little PABX from the 90s; which gives me the possiblity to experiment 
> with modems.
>
> My problem is ; my model 102 does not pickup the line.
> A regular analog phone does, a good old USRobotics Courrier 56K does, but the 
> T102 does not.
>
> I have the proper Tandy grey/beige(rather pink now) cable
> It's inserted in the right way. My init string (STAT) is starting with M, for 
> internal modem
>
> If I put a phone on the gray line, and "pink" in the PABX ; i can hear my 
> PABX's dial tone, until I make the M102 dial, in which case the phone goes 
> silent (which is normal).
>
> But the PABX doesnt show the line as beeing picked up (a led should turn 
> red), I can hear the M102 pulse dialing "in the void", but to no end... The 
> PABX supports pulse dial. I tried 10pps and 20pps.
>
> But it seems the problem is not dialing, it's the actual, i'd say 
> "electrical" pickup of the line.
> It seems either the voltages are not right, or something is not working like 
> it should.
>
> I tried BASIC with "CALL 21200" (which pickups the lines) you can hear the 
> relay click, but again, the PABX does not see that as someone picking up a 
> phone.
>
> I have an European M102 (could that be an issue ?) My "phone line" (vintage 
> PABX) is a european (belgian) one.
> However the M102 has been "upgraded" by a REX# v2.0 rom by the previous 
> owner, that may be an issue (this upgrade was not my doing. I can barely use 
> REX.) I'm with TSDOS101
>
> It's unclear if, eventually, the modem section could need a repair (recap or 
> smth)
> Another possilbity would be that the tone i'm giving it (440Hz over here) is 
> not recognized (seems to be 600Hz in the US), but I find this unlikely this 
> would be software controlled, and my M102 is a Belgian model it even has the 
> "RTT" (telco of the time) sticker on it
>
> I'm out of ideas.
> Any help greatly appreciated

[M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line

[Cedric Amand]

Hello everyone,

I'm a new member, out of Belgium, I have a dozen of vintages PCs, I
especially likes laptops. I'm an electronics engineer which helpes for
fixing. Thanks for welcoming me and thanks to whoever created this in the
first place.

I'm trying to make the internal modem of my Tandy/RS Model 102 work again.

I've connected it to a small home phone exchange (pabx) so that I have real
proper vintage phone lines , but the same problem occurs on my home phone
line (which is not PSTN anyway, it's an emulated analog line turn into voip
by a modern cable modem router)

I absolutely wanted to have my own "lab" of proper PSTN lines so that's why
I have my little PABX from the 90s; which gives me the possiblity to
experiment with modems.

My problem is ; my model 102 does not pickup the line.
A regular analog phone does, a good old USRobotics Courrier 56K does, but
the T102 does not.

I have the proper Tandy grey/beige(rather pink now) cable
It's inserted in the right way. My init string (STAT) is starting with M,
for internal modem

If I put a phone on the gray line, and "pink" in the PABX ; i can hear my
PABX's dial tone, until I make the M102 dial, in which case the phone goes
silent (which is normal).

But the PABX doesnt show the line as beeing picked up (a led should turn
red), I can hear the M102 pulse dialing "in the void", but to no end... The
PABX supports pulse dial. I tried 10pps and 20pps.

But it seems the problem is not dialing, it's the actual, i'd say
"electrical" pickup of the line.
It seems either the voltages are not right, or something is not working
like it should.

I tried BASIC with "CALL 21200" (which pickups the lines) you can hear the
relay click, but again, the PABX does not see that as someone picking up a
phone.

I have an European M102 (could that be an issue ?) My "phone line" (vintage
PABX) is a european (belgian) one.
However the M102 has been "upgraded" by a REX# v2.0 rom by the previous
owner, that may be an issue (this upgrade was not my doing. I can barely
use REX.) I'm with TSDOS101

It's unclear if, eventually, the modem section could need a repair (recap
or smth)
Another possilbity would be that the tone i'm giving it (440Hz over here)
is not recognized (seems to be 600Hz in the US), but I find this unlikely
this would be software controlled, and my M102 is a Belgian model it even
has the "RTT" (telco of the time) sticker on it

I'm out of ideas.
Any help greatly appreciated

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[megarat]

 Hi Rafael, thanks for the reminder.  I've been coping with jetlag, so my brain 
has been elsewhere.
Indeed, I do have a screen.  I'll follow up directly to your email.

/CAM


On Friday, October 26, 2018, 4:49:00 PM PDT, Rafael Arena 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi!  Were you able to find a screen?

Thank you,

> On Oct 21, 2018, at 10:25 AM, C.Magaret  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with.  I’m out of the 
> country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
> 
> /CAM
> 
> -- 
> 
> Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo.  Please forgive any typos, 
> inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections.
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2018, at 16:17, Rafael Arena  wrote:
>> 
>> Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing.  There are 
>> parts of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the 
>> contrast those area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate.  Do 
>> you know where I can get a spare screen?  Besides purchasing another unit 
>> from eBay?
>> 
>> Thank you,
> 
> 
  

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hi!  Were you able to find a screen?

Thank you,

> On Oct 21, 2018, at 10:25 AM, C.Magaret  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with.  I’m out of the 
> country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
> 
> /CAM
> 
> -- 
> 
> Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo.  Please forgive any typos, 
> inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections.
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2018, at 16:17, Rafael Arena  wrote:
>> 
>> Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing.  There are 
>> parts of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the 
>> contrast those area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate.  Do 
>> you know where I can get a spare screen?  Besides purchasing another unit 
>> from eBay?
>> 
>> Thank you,
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Thank you!

> On Oct 21, 2018, at 10:25 AM, C.Magaret  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with.  I’m out of the 
> country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
> 
> /CAM
> 
> -- 
> 
> Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo.  Please forgive any typos, 
> inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections.
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2018, at 16:17, Rafael Arena  wrote:
>> 
>> Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing.  There are 
>> parts of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the 
>> contrast those area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate.  Do 
>> you know where I can get a spare screen?  Besides purchasing another unit 
>> from eBay?
>> 
>> Thank you,
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[C.Magaret]

Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with.  I’m out of the 
country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.

/CAM

-- 

Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo.  Please forgive any typos, 
inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections.

> On Oct 21, 2018, at 16:17, Rafael Arena  wrote:
> 
> Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing.  There are 
> parts of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the contrast 
> those area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate.  Do you know 
> where I can get a spare screen?  Besides purchasing another unit from eBay?
> 
> Thank you,

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing.  There are parts 
of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the contrast those 
area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate.  Do you know where I can 
get a spare screen?  Besides purchasing another unit from eBay?

Thank you,

> On Oct 14, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> The failure you describe is not one I have seen.  The two LCDs that failed
> in my machines had horizontal bars of slightly darker contrast.  When the
> contrast was varied the bars remained slightly darker than the rest of the
> screen.  Eventually the -5V dropped to -2V as I assume the current draw
> exceeded the power supply limits.  In both cases it appeared the
> horizontal driver chip was bad and could not properly drive the LCD or
> perhaps the LCD itself was bad.  Hard to tell but replacing the LCD module
> with another one fixed the problem.
> 
> The fact you need to power cycle the unit, not just press reset, could
> mean there is a power supply issue on the motherboard.As the contrast
> is changed the LCD driver chips might be seeing the supply voltages drop
> causing erratic behavior.   May want to check that the cable to the screen
> is good and has no bad joints at the LCD module side?  Could be a simple
> dry joint on the cable connection.
> 
> On 14/10/18, 8:22 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi!
>> 
>> Yeah, everything seems stable on the +-5v side. I will try to replace all
>> the caps.  But probably the screen is going bad :(
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Fugu ME100]

Hi

The failure you describe is not one I have seen.  The two LCDs that failed
in my machines had horizontal bars of slightly darker contrast.  When the
contrast was varied the bars remained slightly darker than the rest of the
screen.  Eventually the -5V dropped to -2V as I assume the current draw
exceeded the power supply limits.  In both cases it appeared the
horizontal driver chip was bad and could not properly drive the LCD or
perhaps the LCD itself was bad.  Hard to tell but replacing the LCD module
with another one fixed the problem.

The fact you need to power cycle the unit, not just press reset, could
mean there is a power supply issue on the motherboard.As the contrast
is changed the LCD driver chips might be seeing the supply voltages drop
causing erratic behavior.   May want to check that the cable to the screen
is good and has no bad joints at the LCD module side?  Could be a simple
dry joint on the cable connection.

On 14/10/18, 8:22 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"

wrote:

>Hi!
>
>Yeah, everything seems stable on the +-5v side. I will try to replace all
>the caps.  But probably the screen is going bad :(
>
>Thank you,
>
>> 
>> 
 
 
>> 
>> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hi!

Yeah, everything seems stable on the +-5v side. I will try to replace all the 
caps.  But probably the screen is going bad :(

Thank you,

> On Oct 14, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> If the voltage change on pin 4 is smooth the voltages look right - pg 38
> of the M100 reference manual gives 0-4V as the range for V2.  It feels
> like VR1 is working correctly, indeed the whole contrast circuit would
> appear to be fine. 
> 
> With the screen plugged in can you measure the -5V and +5V voltages at
> their respective test points.  They should remain stable as the contrast
> is changed.  Also check the reset line to the LCD, it is pin 7.
> 
> It is quite tricky to test with the screen plugged in, the only way I have
> been able to do that is to take the screen out to get at the connector
> pins.  
> 
> Although it may appear good the -5V supply could still have problems due
> to bad caps.  Similarly the +5V could be bad too because of bad caps.  It
> sounds  more like a power supply issue having to power cycle to make
> things work properly.  If one cap has been replaced I would probably just
> replace all the power supply related caps.  The 10uF caps always seem to
> be dried up when I have had power supply issues.
> 
> It could also just be a bad screen they do fail themselves due to age :(
> 
> 
> On 14/10/18, 3:53 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi!
>> 
>> I tried what was suggested and I get 0-3.8v on pin four (without the
>> screen plugged in).  Can’t seem to figure out how to measure pin 4 with
>> the screen plugged in.  When i turn the contrast knob the screen starts
>> to jump around the display random line sporadically.  I have to turn the
>> computer on and off a few times in order to get it to come on.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>>> On Oct 12, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi
>>> 
>>> The voltages look good.  I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
>>> output circuit. 
>>> 
>>> You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4,
>>> see
>>> if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps".  Also check the -5V
>>> is stable as you vary the contrast.  I have noticed on some screens that
>>> are failing the -5V will drop to -2V as the screen draws too much
>>> current
>>> as the contrast is varied.
>>> 
>>> If the contrast voltage is not a smooth change then you could try
>>> Brian’s
>>> suggestion to clean VR1.
>>> 
>>> Is it always missing a few lines on the screen?  Do the missing lines
>>> have
>>> a pattern?  
>>> 
>>> On 12/10/18, 2:35 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hi,
 
 At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display
 the
 image gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5
 and
 -5 volts that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts
 respectively.
 I changed capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I
 said
 it works every now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When
 i
 play with the contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades
 away.
 Any of this makes sense? Lol
 
 Thank you,
 
> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi 
> 
> What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
> 
> VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the
> resistors
> tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.
> Might
> be worth looking into trying that option first?
> 
> 
> On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>  minikni...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
>> variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those
>> VR¹s
>> typically go bad?
>> 
>> Thank you,
> 
> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Fugu ME100]

Hi

If the voltage change on pin 4 is smooth the voltages look right - pg 38
of the M100 reference manual gives 0-4V as the range for V2.  It feels
like VR1 is working correctly, indeed the whole contrast circuit would
appear to be fine. 

With the screen plugged in can you measure the -5V and +5V voltages at
their respective test points.  They should remain stable as the contrast
is changed.  Also check the reset line to the LCD, it is pin 7.

It is quite tricky to test with the screen plugged in, the only way I have
been able to do that is to take the screen out to get at the connector
pins.  

Although it may appear good the -5V supply could still have problems due
to bad caps.  Similarly the +5V could be bad too because of bad caps.  It
sounds  more like a power supply issue having to power cycle to make
things work properly.  If one cap has been replaced I would probably just
replace all the power supply related caps.  The 10uF caps always seem to
be dried up when I have had power supply issues.

It could also just be a bad screen they do fail themselves due to age :(
  

On 14/10/18, 3:53 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"

wrote:

>Hi!
>
>I tried what was suggested and I get 0-3.8v on pin four (without the
>screen plugged in).  Can’t seem to figure out how to measure pin 4 with
>the screen plugged in.  When i turn the contrast knob the screen starts
>to jump around the display random line sporadically.  I have to turn the
>computer on and off a few times in order to get it to come on.
>
>Thank you,
>
>> On Oct 12, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi
>> 
>> The voltages look good.  I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
>> output circuit. 
>> 
>> You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4,
>>see
>> if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps".  Also check the -5V
>> is stable as you vary the contrast.  I have noticed on some screens that
>> are failing the -5V will drop to -2V as the screen draws too much
>>current
>> as the contrast is varied.
>> 
>> If the contrast voltage is not a smooth change then you could try
>>Brian’s
>> suggestion to clean VR1.
>> 
>> Is it always missing a few lines on the screen?  Do the missing lines
>>have
>> a pattern?  
>> 
>> On 12/10/18, 2:35 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> 
>>> At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display
>>>the
>>> image gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5
>>>and
>>> -5 volts that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts
>>>respectively.
>>> I changed capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I
>>>said
>>> it works every now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When
>>>i
>>> play with the contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades
>>>away.
>>> Any of this makes sense? Lol
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>>> 
 On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
 
 Hi 
 
 What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
 
 VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the
resistors
 tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.
Might
 be worth looking into trying that option first?
 
 
 On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
 >>>minikni...@hotmail.com>
 wrote:
 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
> variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those
>VR¹s
> typically go bad?
> 
> Thank you,
 
 
>> 
>> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hi!

I tried what was suggested and I get 0-3.8v on pin four (without the screen 
plugged in).  Can’t seem to figure out how to measure pin 4 with the screen 
plugged in.  When i turn the contrast knob the screen starts to jump around the 
display random line sporadically.  I have to turn the computer on and off a few 
times in order to get it to come on.

Thank you,

> On Oct 12, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> The voltages look good.  I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
> output circuit.  
> 
> You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4, see
> if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps".  Also check the -5V
> is stable as you vary the contrast.  I have noticed on some screens that
> are failing the -5V will drop to -2V as the screen draws too much current
> as the contrast is varied.
> 
> If the contrast voltage is not a smooth change then you could try Brian’s
> suggestion to clean VR1.
> 
> Is it always missing a few lines on the screen?  Do the missing lines have
> a pattern?  
> 
> On 12/10/18, 2:35 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the
>> image gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5 and
>> -5 volts that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively.
>> I changed capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I said
>> it works every now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When i
>> play with the contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades away.
>> Any of this makes sense? Lol
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>>> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi 
>>> 
>>> What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
>>> 
>>> VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
>>> tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.  Might
>>> be worth looking into trying that option first?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hello,
 
 I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
 variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR¹s
 typically go bad?
 
 Thank you,
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Thanks for the suggestions, i will try that and let everyone know.

Thanks again!

> On Oct 12, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> The voltages look good.  I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
> output circuit.  
> 
> You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4, see
> if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps".  Also check the -5V
> is stable as you vary the contrast.  I have noticed on some screens that
> are failing the -5V will drop to -2V as the screen draws too much current
> as the contrast is varied.
> 
> If the contrast voltage is not a smooth change then you could try Brian’s
> suggestion to clean VR1.
> 
> Is it always missing a few lines on the screen?  Do the missing lines have
> a pattern?  
> 
> On 12/10/18, 2:35 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the
>> image gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5 and
>> -5 volts that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively.
>> I changed capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I said
>> it works every now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When i
>> play with the contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades away.
>> Any of this makes sense? Lol
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>>> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi 
>>> 
>>> What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
>>> 
>>> VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
>>> tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.  Might
>>> be worth looking into trying that option first?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hello,
 
 I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
 variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR¹s
 typically go bad?
 
 Thank you,
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Fugu ME100]

Hi

The voltages look good.  I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
output circuit.  

You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4, see
if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps".  Also check the -5V
is stable as you vary the contrast.  I have noticed on some screens that
are failing the -5V will drop to -2V as the screen draws too much current
as the contrast is varied.

If the contrast voltage is not a smooth change then you could try Brian’s
suggestion to clean VR1.

Is it always missing a few lines on the screen?  Do the missing lines have
a pattern?  

On 12/10/18, 2:35 AM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"

wrote:

>Hi,
>
>At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the
>image gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5 and
>-5 volts that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively.
>I changed capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I said
>it works every now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When i
>play with the contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades away.
> Any of this makes sense? Lol
>
>Thank you,
>
>> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi 
>> 
>> What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
>> 
>> VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
>> tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.  Might
>> be worth looking into trying that option first?
>> 
>> 
>> On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
>> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hello,
>>> 
>>> I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
>>> variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR¹s
>>> typically go bad?
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>> 
>> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hi,

At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the image 
gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5 and -5 volts 
that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively. I changed 
capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I said it works every 
now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When i play with the 
contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades away.  Any of this makes 
sense? Lol

Thank you,


On Oct 11, 2018, at 11:15 PM, Brian White 
mailto:bw.al...@gmail.com>> wrote:

You may be able to clean it with Deoxit D5.

Drench it good. Work the knob a few times a day for a few days. Give it at 
least a week to dry out and act normal.

While the stuff is still wet, the screen may go totally blank, meaning no 
darkened pixels, or just microscopically faintly under just the right extreme 
angle of light.

But by a week maybe a little more it does dry out and the pot will either be 
better than before, or the same as before, depending on if the original problem 
was dirt & oxidization or not. But it doesn't hurt anything. (plastics, traces, 
etc)

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 6:57 PM Rafael Arena 
mailto:minikni...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hello,

I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the variable 
resistor ‘VR1’.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR’s typically go bad?

Thank you,

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hi,

At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the image 
gets all distorted and then fades away.  I have checked the +5 and -5 volts 
that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively. I changed 
capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips.  Like I said it works every 
now and again, missing a few lines on the screen.  When i play with the 
contrast knob the image distorts and some times fades away.  Any of this makes 
sense? Lol

Thank you,

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:27 PM, Fugu ME100  wrote:
> 
> Hi 
> 
> What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
> 
> VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
> tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.  Might
> be worth looking into trying that option first?
> 
> 
> On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
>> variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR¹s
>> typically go bad?
>> 
>> Thank you,
> 
> 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Brian White]

You may be able to clean it with Deoxit D5.

Drench it good. Work the knob a few times a day for a few days. Give it at
least a week to dry out and act normal.

While the stuff is still wet, the screen may go totally blank, meaning no
darkened pixels, or just microscopically faintly under just the right
extreme angle of light.

But by a week maybe a little more it does dry out and the pot will either
be better than before, or the same as before, depending on if the original
problem was dirt & oxidization or not. But it doesn't hurt anything.
(plastics, traces, etc)

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 6:57 PM Rafael Arena  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
> variable resistor ‘VR1’.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR’s
> typically go bad?
>
> Thank you,

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100

[Fugu ME100]

Hi 

What are the symptoms you are experiencing?

VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
tracks.  People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them.  Might
be worth looking into trying that option first?


On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael Arena"

wrote:

>Hello,
>
>I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the
>variable resistor ŒVR1¹.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR¹s
>typically go bad?
>
>Thank you,

[M100] Tandy Model 100

[Rafael Arena]

Hello,

I have a semi functional Model 100.  I believe the issue is with the variable 
resistor ‘VR1’.  Where can I get a replacement?  Do those VR’s typically go bad?

Thank you,

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Brian White]

Ah ok. Well you definitely need to twist the wires then. It doesn't matter
which end you do it at, but it's easier to crimp the DIP normally, and do
the twists at the dvi end because it's hard to keep all those loose pairs
lined up in the wide dip connector.

Or there is a way to achieve the same pinout without physically twisting
anything, by using a male-male pin header and butting two normally crimped
female idc connectors together.

On Wed, May 9, 2018, 12:55 PM Jesse Huyett  wrote:

> Hello Brian,
> Thanks for the detailed response.
>
> The cable that came with the DVI was for a M102. I was able to get
> everything tested and working thanks to the recent pickup of a M102
> mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
> So definitely an issue with the cable I made for the M100 and not a bad
> drive/ the order of operation/ ...
>
> I did buy the DIP connector through king-cart. I ohm'd out some of the
> pins in what I made and thinking one isn't connected correctly.
> Fortunately I bought a few DIPs so I'll hopefully get to try again some
> day sooner than later.
>
> Regards
>
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Brian White  wrote:
>
>> If it came with a cable, it's probably a working cable. But if it's home
>> made, maybe it's not polarity keyed and it's possible to plug something in
>> backwards? Or it might be missing 1/2 of a 2-part cable.
>>
>> Can you take a picture of it?
>>
>> It's also possible to have a bad drive. Myself and someone else have had
>> bad original dvi drives just in the last few months.
>>
>> Do you get sensible prompts on the TV? Specifically, do you get the
>> copyright notice after closing the drive door? That would prove that the
>> drive is working at least that much. If the drive is bad you can replace it
>> by looking for any 360k drive, 360k not 1.2m. (the original drive is really
>> 180k, basically a 360k drive with only one read/write head, but you're not
>> going to find one of those)
>>
>> Did you follow the boot procedure from the manual exactly? The order of
>> the steps matters, and when it's all done and worked correctly, there is
>> very little evidense to show that it worked. The available memory drops by
>> about 5k. Other than that it doesn't look like it's working. The TV screen
>> will be just black, and the M100 will be at the main menu.
>>
>> But if you go into BASIC and type "SCREEN 1,1" then you'll know if it's
>> working.
>>
>> The order is:
>>
>> Power-on TV, Power-off both M100 and DVI. Disk out of drive. Drive door
>> open.
>>
>> Power on M100. Ctrl-break-reset M100. (This will wipe all ram. You don't
>> usually have to cold reset and wipe all ram, but do it this time)
>>
>> Power on DVI.
>>
>> Wait for prompt on TV.
>> Follow prompt on TV to insert disk and close drive door.
>>
>> Press the reset button on the M100. Just reset, not ctrl-break-reset, and
>> just a momentary press.
>>
>> The TV should go black and the M100 should be at the main menu now. Go
>> into basic and try any of the dvi commands like screen or lfiles.
>>
>> --
>> bkw
>>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2018, 8:44 AM Jesse Huyett  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>> Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came
>>> with and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
>>> The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a
>>> project for another time.
>>>
>>> Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a successful bootup of
>>> the system.
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 1:46 PM, Brian White  wrote:
>>>
 I don't remember what exactly the floppy controller needs. Maybe it
 just needs to be able to do double density.

 Steven Adolf has a a downloadable image of the later version disk that
 supports both 100/102 and 200.

 http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
 ​
 You need Teledisk (and probably DOS or at least Windows XP or lower),
 and an old floppy controller and a 360k drive to write the image.​

 There are some 1.2m drives that can mostly fake 360k, but even if they
 do double density signal strength and rpm and kbps and write compensation,
 and double-step the head to do 48 tpi, there is still the problem that the
 physical drive head is a 96 tpi drive head and writes thinner tracks,
 leaving whole full tracks untouched in between, which can be full of noise
 or old data that would screw up when a wider 48tpi drive head tries to read
 it. So really, a 1.2m drive & controller than can do 360k, is really only
 good fro reading the old disks in a new drive, not for writing and
 certainly not for formatting.

 ​I have a little info on a few drives I actually tested myself here:
 ​http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Drives
 and the cable
 http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Cable

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Jesse Huyett]

Hello Brian,
Thanks for the detailed response.

The cable that came with the DVI was for a M102. I was able to get
everything tested and working thanks to the recent pickup of a M102
mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
So definitely an issue with the cable I made for the M100 and not a bad
drive/ the order of operation/ ...

I did buy the DIP connector through king-cart. I ohm'd out some of the pins
in what I made and thinking one isn't connected correctly.
Fortunately I bought a few DIPs so I'll hopefully get to try again some day
sooner than later.

Regards


On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Brian White  wrote:

> If it came with a cable, it's probably a working cable. But if it's home
> made, maybe it's not polarity keyed and it's possible to plug something in
> backwards? Or it might be missing 1/2 of a 2-part cable.
>
> Can you take a picture of it?
>
> It's also possible to have a bad drive. Myself and someone else have had
> bad original dvi drives just in the last few months.
>
> Do you get sensible prompts on the TV? Specifically, do you get the
> copyright notice after closing the drive door? That would prove that the
> drive is working at least that much. If the drive is bad you can replace it
> by looking for any 360k drive, 360k not 1.2m. (the original drive is really
> 180k, basically a 360k drive with only one read/write head, but you're not
> going to find one of those)
>
> Did you follow the boot procedure from the manual exactly? The order of
> the steps matters, and when it's all done and worked correctly, there is
> very little evidense to show that it worked. The available memory drops by
> about 5k. Other than that it doesn't look like it's working. The TV screen
> will be just black, and the M100 will be at the main menu.
>
> But if you go into BASIC and type "SCREEN 1,1" then you'll know if it's
> working.
>
> The order is:
>
> Power-on TV, Power-off both M100 and DVI. Disk out of drive. Drive door
> open.
>
> Power on M100. Ctrl-break-reset M100. (This will wipe all ram. You don't
> usually have to cold reset and wipe all ram, but do it this time)
>
> Power on DVI.
>
> Wait for prompt on TV.
> Follow prompt on TV to insert disk and close drive door.
>
> Press the reset button on the M100. Just reset, not ctrl-break-reset, and
> just a momentary press.
>
> The TV should go black and the M100 should be at the main menu now. Go
> into basic and try any of the dvi commands like screen or lfiles.
>
> --
> bkw
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018, 8:44 AM Jesse Huyett  wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>> Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came
>> with and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
>> The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a
>> project for another time.
>>
>> Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a successful bootup of the
>> system.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 1:46 PM, Brian White  wrote:
>>
>>> I don't remember what exactly the floppy controller needs. Maybe it just
>>> needs to be able to do double density.
>>>
>>> Steven Adolf has a a downloadable image of the later version disk that
>>> supports both 100/102 and 200.
>>> http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=
>>> 0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
>>> ​
>>> You need Teledisk (and probably DOS or at least Windows XP or lower),
>>> and an old floppy controller and a 360k drive to write the image.​
>>>
>>> There are some 1.2m drives that can mostly fake 360k, but even if they
>>> do double density signal strength and rpm and kbps and write compensation,
>>> and double-step the head to do 48 tpi, there is still the problem that the
>>> physical drive head is a 96 tpi drive head and writes thinner tracks,
>>> leaving whole full tracks untouched in between, which can be full of noise
>>> or old data that would screw up when a wider 48tpi drive head tries to read
>>> it. So really, a 1.2m drive & controller than can do 360k, is really only
>>> good fro reading the old disks in a new drive, not for writing and
>>> certainly not for formatting.
>>>
>>> ​I have a little info on a few drives I actually tested myself here:
>>> ​http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Drives
>>> and the cable
>>> http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Cable
>>>
>>> I think we discussed it here recently and someone had some more
>>> definitive knowledge than this, but I can't find it right now.
>>>
>>> --
>>> bkw
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 27, 2018 11:16 PM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello Brian,
>>> Thank you for the response.
>>>
>>> > the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
>>> I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you
>>> have any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...
>>>
>>> > just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
>>> I can send you floppies, I can pay 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Brian White]

If it came with a cable, it's probably a working cable. But if it's home
made, maybe it's not polarity keyed and it's possible to plug something in
backwards? Or it might be missing 1/2 of a 2-part cable.

Can you take a picture of it?

It's also possible to have a bad drive. Myself and someone else have had
bad original dvi drives just in the last few months.

Do you get sensible prompts on the TV? Specifically, do you get the
copyright notice after closing the drive door? That would prove that the
drive is working at least that much. If the drive is bad you can replace it
by looking for any 360k drive, 360k not 1.2m. (the original drive is really
180k, basically a 360k drive with only one read/write head, but you're not
going to find one of those)

Did you follow the boot procedure from the manual exactly? The order of the
steps matters, and when it's all done and worked correctly, there is very
little evidense to show that it worked. The available memory drops by about
5k. Other than that it doesn't look like it's working. The TV screen will
be just black, and the M100 will be at the main menu.

But if you go into BASIC and type "SCREEN 1,1" then you'll know if it's
working.

The order is:

Power-on TV, Power-off both M100 and DVI. Disk out of drive. Drive door
open.

Power on M100. Ctrl-break-reset M100. (This will wipe all ram. You don't
usually have to cold reset and wipe all ram, but do it this time)

Power on DVI.

Wait for prompt on TV.
Follow prompt on TV to insert disk and close drive door.

Press the reset button on the M100. Just reset, not ctrl-break-reset, and
just a momentary press.

The TV should go black and the M100 should be at the main menu now. Go into
basic and try any of the dvi commands like screen or lfiles.

-- 
bkw

On Wed, May 9, 2018, 8:44 AM Jesse Huyett  wrote:

> Hello all,
> Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came
> with and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
> The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a
> project for another time.
>
> Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a successful bootup of the
> system.
>
> Regards
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 1:46 PM, Brian White  wrote:
>
>> I don't remember what exactly the floppy controller needs. Maybe it just
>> needs to be able to do double density.
>>
>> Steven Adolf has a a downloadable image of the later version disk that
>> supports both 100/102 and 200.
>>
>> http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
>> ​
>> You need Teledisk (and probably DOS or at least Windows XP or lower), and
>> an old floppy controller and a 360k drive to write the image.​
>>
>> There are some 1.2m drives that can mostly fake 360k, but even if they do
>> double density signal strength and rpm and kbps and write compensation, and
>> double-step the head to do 48 tpi, there is still the problem that the
>> physical drive head is a 96 tpi drive head and writes thinner tracks,
>> leaving whole full tracks untouched in between, which can be full of noise
>> or old data that would screw up when a wider 48tpi drive head tries to read
>> it. So really, a 1.2m drive & controller than can do 360k, is really only
>> good fro reading the old disks in a new drive, not for writing and
>> certainly not for formatting.
>>
>> ​I have a little info on a few drives I actually tested myself here:
>> ​http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Drives
>> and the cable
>> http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Cable
>>
>> I think we discussed it here recently and someone had some more
>> definitive knowledge than this, but I can't find it right now.
>>
>> --
>> bkw
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 27, 2018 11:16 PM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>>
>> Hello Brian,
>> Thank you for the response.
>>
>> > the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
>> I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you
>> have any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...
>>
>> > just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
>> I can send you floppies, I can pay shipping (Paypal, Google Pay, check,
>> ... ), ... Let me know what I can do.
>> I'll send a PM with my address.
>>
>> Thanks again and super appreciate the offer.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jesse
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 11:57 AM, Brian White  wrote:
>>
>>> It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not only
>>> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a
>>> motherboard or isa card.
>>>
>>> Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to
>>> have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's not inconvenient.
>>>
>>> --
>>> bkw
>>>
>>> On Apr 27, 2018 2:22 AM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello All,
>>> I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
>>> I 

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Mike Stein]

How is your M100 cable wired? You may be able to use it with the 102/200 cable 
with a little adapter.

m
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jesse Huyett 
  To: m...@bitchin100.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2018 8:44 AM
  Subject: Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video 
Interface)


  Hello all,
  Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came with 
and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
  The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a project 
for another time.


  Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a successful bootup of the 
system.


  Regards




  On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 1:46 PM, Brian White <bw.al...@gmail.com> wrote:

I don't remember what exactly the floppy controller needs. Maybe it just 
needs to be able to do double density.

Steven Adolf has a a downloadable image of the later version disk that 
supports both 100/102 and 200.

http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files

​
You need Teledisk (and probably DOS or at least Windows XP or lower), and 
an old floppy controller and a 360k drive to write the image.​


There are some 1.2m drives that can mostly fake 360k, but even if they do 
double density signal strength and rpm and kbps and write compensation, and 
double-step the head to do 48 tpi, there is still the problem that the physical 
drive head is a 96 tpi drive head and writes thinner tracks, leaving whole full 
tracks untouched in between, which can be full of noise or old data that would 
screw up when a wider 48tpi drive head tries to read it. So really, a 1.2m 
drive & controller than can do 360k, is really only good fro reading the old 
disks in a new drive, not for writing and certainly not for formatting.



​I have a little info on a few drives I actually tested myself here:
​http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Drives

and the cable
http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Cable


I think we discussed it here recently and someone had some more definitive 
knowledge than this, but I can't find it right now.

-- 

bkw






On Apr 27, 2018 11:16 PM, "Jesse Huyett" <j...@huyett.us> wrote:

  Hello Brian,
  Thank you for the response.


  > the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
  I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you have 
any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...


  > just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
  I can send you floppies, I can pay shipping (Paypal, Google Pay, check, 
... ), ... Let me know what I can do.
  I'll send a PM with my address.


  Thanks again and super appreciate the offer.


  Regards,
  Jesse








  On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 11:57 AM, Brian White <bw.al...@gmail.com> wrote:

It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not 
only the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a 
motherboard or isa card.


Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to 
have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's not inconvenient.


-- 
bkw


On Apr 27, 2018 2:22 AM, "Jesse Huyett" <j...@huyett.us> wrote:

  Hello All,
  I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
  I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't 
found a way to create the boot disk.

  I found a download of the files at club100.org ( 
http://club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
 ), but haven't been able to figure out how to create a boot disk from the 
images - I do have access to older computers with a 5 1/4" floppy drive.
  Also tried writing the disk image to an HxC figuring I can hook this 
into the DVI, but the HxCFloppyEmulator software doesn't recognize the image 
format.

  Ideally, I'm looking for a cable (in case I didn't make mine 
correctly) and a boot floppy.
  At minimum, wondering if anyone has experience creating a boot floppy 
or getting it to write to the HxCFloppyEmulator software.


  Regards

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Jesse Huyett]

Hello all,
Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came with
and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a project
for another time.

Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a successful bootup of the
system.

Regards


On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 1:46 PM, Brian White  wrote:

> I don't remember what exactly the floppy controller needs. Maybe it just
> needs to be able to do double density.
>
> Steven Adolf has a a downloadable image of the later version disk that
> supports both 100/102 and 200.
> http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=
> 0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
> ​
> You need Teledisk (and probably DOS or at least Windows XP or lower), and
> an old floppy controller and a 360k drive to write the image.​
>
> There are some 1.2m drives that can mostly fake 360k, but even if they do
> double density signal strength and rpm and kbps and write compensation, and
> double-step the head to do 48 tpi, there is still the problem that the
> physical drive head is a 96 tpi drive head and writes thinner tracks,
> leaving whole full tracks untouched in between, which can be full of noise
> or old data that would screw up when a wider 48tpi drive head tries to read
> it. So really, a 1.2m drive & controller than can do 360k, is really only
> good fro reading the old disks in a new drive, not for writing and
> certainly not for formatting.
>
> ​I have a little info on a few drives I actually tested myself here:
> ​http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Drives
> and the cable
> http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface:_Cable
>
> I think we discussed it here recently and someone had some more definitive
> knowledge than this, but I can't find it right now.
>
> --
> bkw
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 27, 2018 11:16 PM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>
> Hello Brian,
> Thank you for the response.
>
> > the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
> I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you have
> any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...
>
> > just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
> I can send you floppies, I can pay shipping (Paypal, Google Pay, check,
> ... ), ... Let me know what I can do.
> I'll send a PM with my address.
>
> Thanks again and super appreciate the offer.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 11:57 AM, Brian White  wrote:
>
>> It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not only
>> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a
>> motherboard or isa card.
>>
>> Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to
>> have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's not inconvenient.
>>
>> --
>> bkw
>>
>> On Apr 27, 2018 2:22 AM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>>
>> Hello All,
>> I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
>> I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't found
>> a way to create the boot disk.
>>
>> I found a download of the files at club100.org (
>> http://club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0=
>> rectory=Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files ), but haven't been
>> able to figure out how to create a boot disk from the images - I do have
>> access to older computers with a 5 1/4" floppy drive.
>> Also tried writing the disk image to an HxC figuring I can hook this into
>> the DVI, but the HxCFloppyEmulator software doesn't recognize the image
>> format.
>>
>> Ideally, I'm looking for a cable (in case I didn't make mine correctly)
>> and a boot floppy.
>> At minimum, wondering if anyone has experience creating a boot floppy or
>> getting it to write to the HxCFloppyEmulator software.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Fugu ME100]

I have been looking at this site with respect to producing a DVI disk 
(originally looking for a TRS-80 Model I disk) :
http://www.classiccmp.org/dunfield/img/index.htm

It has some interesting archive materials including disk images for a lot of 
old machines and information on PC motherboards that can support generation of 
older format disks.  Hopefully it will be useful for DVI owners.

If you want to reproduce a TRS-80 Model I boot disk this video might help :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JM_eW7h07ew

From: M100 
<m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com<mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com>> 
on behalf of Jesse Huyett <j...@huyett.us<mailto:j...@huyett.us>>
Reply-To: <m...@bitchin100.com<mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>>
Date: Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 4:16 AM
To: <m...@bitchin100.com<mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>>
Subject: Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

Hello Brian,
Thank you for the response.

> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you have any 
pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...

> just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
I can send you floppies, I can pay shipping (Paypal, Google Pay, check, ... ), 
... Let me know what I can do.
I'll send a PM with my address.

Thanks again and super appreciate the offer.

Regards

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Jesse Huyett]

Hello Brian,
Thank you for the response.

> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you have
any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...

> just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk.
I can send you floppies, I can pay shipping (Paypal, Google Pay, check, ...
), ... Let me know what I can do.
I'll send a PM with my address.

Thanks again and super appreciate the offer.

Regards,
Jesse




On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 11:57 AM, Brian White  wrote:

> It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not only
> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a
> motherboard or isa card.
>
> Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to
> have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's not inconvenient.
>
> --
> bkw
>
> On Apr 27, 2018 2:22 AM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
> I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't found a
> way to create the boot disk.
>
> I found a download of the files at club100.org (
> http://club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0=;
> directory=Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files ), but haven't been
> able to figure out how to create a boot disk from the images - I do have
> access to older computers with a 5 1/4" floppy drive.
> Also tried writing the disk image to an HxC figuring I can hook this into
> the DVI, but the HxCFloppyEmulator software doesn't recognize the image
> format.
>
> Ideally, I'm looking for a cable (in case I didn't make mine correctly)
> and a boot floppy.
> At minimum, wondering if anyone has experience creating a boot floppy or
> getting it to write to the HxCFloppyEmulator software.
>
> Regards
>
>
>

Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Brian White]

It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not only
the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a
motherboard or isa card.

Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to
have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's not inconvenient.

-- 
bkw

On Apr 27, 2018 2:22 AM, "Jesse Huyett"  wrote:

Hello All,
I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't found a
way to create the boot disk.

I found a download of the files at club100.org (
http://club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
), but haven't been able to figure out how to create a boot disk from the
images - I do have access to older computers with a 5 1/4" floppy drive.
Also tried writing the disk image to an HxC figuring I can hook this into
the DVI, but the HxCFloppyEmulator software doesn't recognize the image
format.

Ideally, I'm looking for a cable (in case I didn't make mine correctly) and
a boot floppy.
At minimum, wondering if anyone has experience creating a boot floppy or
getting it to write to the HxCFloppyEmulator software.

Regards

[M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface)

[Jesse Huyett]

Hello All,
I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't found a
way to create the boot disk.

I found a download of the files at club100.org (
http://club100.org/memfiles/index.php?=0==Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files
), but haven't been able to figure out how to create a boot disk from the
images - I do have access to older computers with a 5 1/4" floppy drive.
Also tried writing the disk image to an HxC figuring I can hook this into
the DVI, but the HxCFloppyEmulator software doesn't recognize the image
format.

Ideally, I'm looking for a cable (in case I didn't make mine correctly) and
a boot floppy.
At minimum, wondering if anyone has experience creating a boot floppy or
getting it to write to the HxCFloppyEmulator software.

Regards

[M100] Tandy Model 100/102/200 Character

[Mark Wickens]

I've updated the table to include the keyboard keys and modifiers 
(SHIFT, GRPH, CODE) to obtain all characters in the table:


http://wickensonline.co.uk/static/files/tandy/Tandy%20Model%20T%20Code%20to%20Unicode%20Generated%20V1.8.html

I plan on re-creating the NATIVE keyboard maps using the data I have 
now, and possibly include the (much more limited) NEC character set.


Regards, Mark.