A Quick Question for All You iOS Old Time Radio Fans, Regarding the LibriVox App

[M. Taylor]

Hello All,

Is the iOS LibriVox and/or LibriVox Pro app still VoiceOver accessible?  

For those who are not familiar with the tool, LibriVox and LibriVox Pro is a
quick and easy way to access told time radio episodes, as well as a
countless amount of other media, from www.archive.org. 

All replies greatly appreciated,

Mark

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Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anders Holmberg]

Hi!
Is there a command for switching keyboard layouts on the mac?
I could do some testing here to see if i get the same result.
/A
> 11 apr. 2017 kl. 14:01 skrev Michael Busboom :
> 
> Hello Anne,
> 
> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
> 
> My best as always, Anne,
> 
> Mike 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
>> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
>> English and French.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
>>> eight years and love it.
>>> 
>>> Here’s the problem:
>>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
>>> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
>>> work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should 
>>> be.
>>> 
>>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I 
>>> can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I 
>>> switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I 
>>> get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I 
>>> find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my 
>>> MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to 
>>> have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when I 
>>> select a typing input language?
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much!
>>> 
>>> Mike 
>>> 
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Re: something seems to be pulling on my Mac resources

[Anders Holmberg]

Hi!
You may also try resetting the smc and pram.

> 11 apr. 2017 kl. 02:01 skrev Terje Strømberg :
> 
> Try the app menu bar stat. Don’t remember if it is in app store. I have 
> posted about it before here in macvisionaries. Search the archive.
> 
> Take care
> 
> 
>> 10. apr. 2017 kl. 11.12 skrev Ray Foret jr :
>> 
>> Okay,
>> 
>> Every once in a while, and just now too, my Mac’s fan goes up to full speed, 
>> and I’m not doing anything demanding on it or anything.  How can I use the 
>> actividty monitor to try to determin what could be pulling so hard on my Mac 
>> that my fan is going up to full speed and stop it?
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Mac, The Only computer with full accessibility for the blind 
>> built-in
>> 
>> Sincerely, The Constantly Barefooted Ray,
>> 
>> Still a very happy Comcast XFinity Voice Guidance, Mac, Verizon Wireless 
>> iPhone7+ and Apple TV user!
>> 
>> 
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Re: Braille input on iPad Was: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[David Chittenden]

First, do not be in contracted braille when entering passwords, It gets way too 
complex.

Dots 5 6 before a symbol makes the symbol lower case. Dot 6 before a symbol 
makes it upper case. Number sign before a symbol makes it a number if it is a 
to j 1 to 0. Number strings continue so long as the number symbol a - j is 
correct. Letters remain in lower case unless two dot 6 are used in a row 
(something I never do).

When using the iPad, it is much easier as I use computer braille.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 12/04/2017, at 09:03, Georgina Joyce  wrote:
> 
> Hello David,
> 
> I’ve found this guide on AplleVis.
> 
> https://www.applevis.com/guides/braille-ios-voiceover/guide-braille-screen-input-ios
> 
> It indeed works quite well. The author suggests that they use it for 
> passwords. How would you use something that has a number a lower case letter 
> followed by an upper case letter for a good password string?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gena
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 22:46, David Chittenden  wrote:
>> 
>> I forgot to add, I use the touchscreen exclusively for navigation, and 
>> Braille Screen Input for writing. I do not use a QWERTY keyboard.
>> 
>> Kind regards,
>> 
>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all
>>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
>>> 
>>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad 
>>> I will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
>>> 
>>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>>> 
>>> Nick
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
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Braille input on iPad Was: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Georgina Joyce]

Hello David,

I’ve found this guide on AplleVis.

https://www.applevis.com/guides/braille-ios-voiceover/guide-braille-screen-input-ios
 


It indeed works quite well. The author suggests that they use it for passwords. 
How would you use something that has a number a lower case letter followed by 
an upper case letter for a good password string?

Thanks,

Gena

> On 11 Apr 2017, at 22:46, David Chittenden  wrote:
> 
> I forgot to add, I use the touchscreen exclusively for navigation, and 
> Braille Screen Input for writing. I do not use a QWERTY keyboard.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all
>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
>> 
>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
>> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
>> 
>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[David Chittenden]

I have no idea if there are any good podcasts about Braille Screen Input. I 
taught myself on my iPhone when Apple first introduced the feature.

Grade II (contracted) braille was developed to significantly reduce the size of 
braille volumes for books and such. Basically, it is similar to print 
shorthand. Being congenitally blind, I learned braille as a child in school. 
Like many blind people, relying on contracted braille ruined my spelling. After 
all, the letter k is the word knowledge. When I started using my first braille 
note-taker, I switched to computer braille. This taught me to think 
automatically in terms of different symbology for lower case, upper case, and 
numeric symbols. This is very important for integration into the general 
sighted work-a-day world. Also, it forced me to drastically improve my spelling.

My Braille Screen Input on the iPhone is in grade 1 braille (computer braille 
is not supported on the iPhone as the screen is a little too small for it). On 
the iPad, I use computer braille. I stay away from contracted braille writing 
for the reasons I already enumerated. However, when I needed to learn UEB 
contracted braille, I set my Braille Screen Input to contracted UEB to aid in 
learning. After I was making no errors for six months, I switched back to 
uncontracted braille writing.

On the iPhone, I hold the phone between my thumb and pinky of both hands. The 
phone is in away mode facing out. Screen curtain is on. I am writing using my 
fingers in two vertical columns. My rists are resting on either side of my 
abdomin.

When on the iPad, I place the iPad flat on a table. I lightly press both thumbs 
against the bottom edge of the iPad to greatly reduce finger drift and keep the 
thumbs still. Whenever I start writing, I perform the dot position calibration 
command. This is because, as a blind person, it is almost impossible to always 
start with ones fingers at the same position. Also, if the writing gets 
inaccurate, I perform dot calibration again to shift the dots back under my 
fingers.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 12/04/2017, at 08:20, Georgina Joyce  wrote:
> 
> Hello David,
> 
> Can you give any tips on using braille input? Do you use grade 1 or 2? Do you 
> use braille or the Apple feature? Do you hold the iPad or lay it down on a 
> desk? Is there a good introductory podcast? I’m sure I’ve heard most of them 
> and probably given up too soon. In fact, didn’t you write some notes a little 
> while ago?
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Gena
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 22:46, David Chittenden  wrote:
>> 
>> I forgot to add, I use the touchscreen exclusively for navigation, and 
>> Braille Screen Input for writing. I do not use a QWERTY keyboard.
>> 
>> Kind regards,
>> 
>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all
>>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
>>> 
>>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad 
>>> I will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
>>> 
>>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>>> 
>>> Nick
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>>> Visionaries list.
>>> 
>>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners 
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>>> 
>>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at: 
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>>> you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>>> 
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>> 
>> -- 
>> The 

Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Georgina Joyce]

Hello David,

Can you give any tips on using braille input? Do you use grade 1 or 2? Do you 
use braille or the Apple feature? Do you hold the iPad or lay it down on a 
desk? Is there a good introductory podcast? I’m sure I’ve heard most of them 
and probably given up too soon. In fact, didn’t you write some notes a little 
while ago?

Many thanks,

Gena



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 22:46, David Chittenden  wrote:
> 
> I forgot to add, I use the touchscreen exclusively for navigation, and 
> Braille Screen Input for writing. I do not use a QWERTY keyboard.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all
>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
>> 
>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
>> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
>> 
>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> -- 
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Looking for a VoiceOver Script

[Des Delgadillo]

Hi all,
Not sure if there is a Vo script that does this, but I would like to be able to 
hit a custom hot key and have Voiceover speak whatever track is going to play 
next on iTunes. I know there are several scripts that voice the current song, 
so I feel like maybe there’s an up next script out there? Maybe?
Any direction here would be appreciated. 
Des

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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Scott Granados]

One other point is Braille support in my opinion is better on IOS than Mac OS 
X.  So if the original poster uses a braille display that’s something to 
consider.


> On Apr 11, 2017, at 5:44 PM, David Chittenden  wrote:
> 
> Contrary to most, I use an iPad Pro and an iPhone for work. I perform the 
> following tasks with it:
> Email with the built-in mail app
> Word processing with Pages, MS Word, and Google Docs
> Case Notes with the built-in notes app
> Manage appointments with the built-in calendar app
> Manage contacts with the built-in contacts app
> Expenses and budgeting with Numbers
> Internet research with Safari
> I occasionally use a few different calculator apps. Also, I have some 
> psychological apps for looking up specific diagnosis data when required
> Ibooks and Kindle for reading literature
> Voice Dream Reader for BookShare and other specialised material
> Various news apps
> 
> The only thing I use my Mac (2011) for is backing up my iPad and iPhone.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all
>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air.
>> 
>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
>> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing.
>> 
>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[David Chittenden]

I forgot to add, I use the touchscreen exclusively for navigation, and Braille 
Screen Input for writing. I do not use a QWERTY keyboard.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with a 
> laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to find 
> out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop for my 
> work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
> 
> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
> 
> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
> 
> Nick
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[David Chittenden]

Contrary to most, I use an iPad Pro and an iPhone for work. I perform the 
following tasks with it:
Email with the built-in mail app
Word processing with Pages, MS Word, and Google Docs
Case Notes with the built-in notes app
Manage appointments with the built-in calendar app
Manage contacts with the built-in contacts app
Expenses and budgeting with Numbers
Internet research with Safari
I occasionally use a few different calculator apps. Also, I have some 
psychological apps for looking up specific diagnosis data when required
Ibooks and Kindle for reading literature
Voice Dream Reader for BookShare and other specialised material
Various news apps

The only thing I use my Mac (2011) for is backing up my iPad and iPhone.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 12/04/2017, at 04:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with a 
> laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to find 
> out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop for my 
> work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
> 
> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
> 
> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
> 
> Nick
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Kliphton Miller]

If I didn’t use my Mac for downloading files I would go this root.  The iPad 
Pro has a lot of built in power, and for what you want to use it for you should 
be just fine.  The poster said something about apps crashing when closing?  I 
don’t use the home button to close apps, I use the escape key, and on my 
keyboard there is a dedicated home button inbeded into the function row.  So 
I’d say go for it, unless you have to download large files, or import other 
things.  Otherwise, you can get access to most things threw cloud services like 
iCloud, pCloud, as much as I hate it dropbox, google drive, one drive, and hey 
I even connect my WD 32TB server with my cloud account and can access files 
there.  So it is all up to you.  HTH
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 4:49 PM, Georgina Joyce  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I use an iPad Pro and it’s dedicated keyboard.
> 
> It is my personal opinion that the Pro would not meet your criteria. The 
> keyboard does not offer the Voiceover navigation to the extent that you can 
> using Mac OS. It’s rather flimsy and delicate. When I’ve needed to do a swipe 
> gesture or close and app via the home button it can collapse. The keyboard 
> issue could be resolved by using an alternative. But at the end of the day. 
> Mac OS is more productive for a keyboard VoiceOver user than is IOS.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Gena
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 19:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all
>> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
>> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with 
>> a laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to 
>> find out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop 
>> for my work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
>> 
>> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
>> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
>> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
>> 
>> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Georgina Joyce]

Hello,

I use an iPad Pro and it’s dedicated keyboard.

It is my personal opinion that the Pro would not meet your criteria. The 
keyboard does not offer the Voiceover navigation to the extent that you can 
using Mac OS. It’s rather flimsy and delicate. When I’ve needed to do a swipe 
gesture or close and app via the home button it can collapse. The keyboard 
issue could be resolved by using an alternative. But at the end of the day. Mac 
OS is more productive for a keyboard VoiceOver user than is IOS.

HTH

Gena



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 19:10, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with a 
> laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to find 
> out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop for my 
> work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 
> 
> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 
> 
> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
> 
> Nick
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Scott Granados]

Well, one of the good things about the iPad Pro is you get cellular 
connectivity natively in the unit.  I’d probably still go air myself but it’s 
an interesting question.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:10 PM, Nickus de Vos  wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
> By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with a 
> laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to find 
> out whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop for my 
> work, specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air.
> 
> I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
> emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
> will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing.
> 
> So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?
> 
> Nick
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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signature.asc
Description: Message signed with OpenPGP

Re: VPN questions

[E.T.]

   Ahhh, yes, guess my fingers were not tuned in today.

From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

On 4/11/2017 12:32 PM, Scott Granados wrote:

Open the WiFi menu first then move over to Bluetooth with it open, if the menus 
are open I think your regular keys work, they do here.  I’ll do the move again 
to make sure I didn’t miss any commands.

Just tested again, works as advertised.  Insure the menu is open.



On Apr 11, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:

Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always used 
to be this way.

At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(

Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about your 
connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and the 
list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your IP 
address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.

When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control.  
You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select 
the best band for the conditions.

Hope that helps.




On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:

This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as you 
suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 2.4GHZ.

Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now know 
whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to prefer one 
over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just default to 
the stronger/clear band/channel?

Thx,
Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
side of the keyboard.:)

PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your only 
option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re still 
using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because it’s 
far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 0 to 9 
instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so forth you 
can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken networks in 
under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly you guess the 
pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively 
locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.

WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.

WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective and 
uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the connection.  
This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack and uses the 
most bits in key and group generation.


Next, let’s talk channels.

(Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)

There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of the 
5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Ah good pointer to use the trackpad I’ll try this myself, thanks for updating 
the thread with this, good idea.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:
> 
> Okay, I went to Wifi with my Voiceover curser and then used VO + command + 
> [f5] and then held option while I pressed my Track pad….This worked.
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 3:04 PM, E.T.  wrote:
>> 
>>  Hmmm, it must have been a fluke for I cannot do it now. Do you have a 
>> mouse? If so you can option click on Wifi.
>> 
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>> mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>> our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>> and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>> 
>> On 4/11/2017 11:50 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
>>> When I hold it a bit longer, I hear “Cancel WIFI” when I release the keys.
>>> Jeff
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:44 PM, E.T.  wrote:
 
 Jeff,
 Activate Wifi as usual with VO-Space but hold it a bit longer than usual. 
 You will get the extended information.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the
 mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
 our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
 and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
 
 On 4/11/2017 10:46 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
> Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my 
> VO curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t 
> always used to be this way.
> 
> At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(
> 
> Jeff
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
>> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of 
>> WiFi and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right 
>> to WiFi.  Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more 
>> information about your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just 
>> hearing turn off WiFi and the list of the networks near by you’ll now 
>> have more fields including your IP address, the channel you’re on, the 
>> noise level, the signal level and the protocol you’re using as well as 
>> the negotiated speed.  Use this or the equivalent on Windows to 
>> determine your current status.
>> 
>> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual 
>> control.  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all 
>> the same SSID and your router supports it you will use band steering.  
>> This means you will use the best band for the conditions at the time.  
>> Your interface card and router will select the best bands for you to use 
>> typically when you connect.  This also has benefits in the Apple world 
>> allowing your watch to join WiFi because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only 
>> and derives the network to connect to from your phone.  If your phone is 
>> connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch will not connect.  If 
>> everything is the same name the watch will connect just fine but again 
>> this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select the 
>> best band for the conditions.
>> 
>> Hope that helps.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have 
>>> done as you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the 
>>> same as my 2.4GHZ.
>>> 
>>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I 
>>> now know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a 
>>> way to prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ 
>>> first or just default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>>> 
>>> Thx,
>>> Jeff
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
 wrote:
 
 OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a 
 difference in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s 
 probably the guy on this side of the keyboard.:)
 
 PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  
 Your only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but 
 then you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good 
 password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network 
 using WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you 
 know.  Why someone 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Open the WiFi menu first then move over to Bluetooth with it open, if the menus 
are open I think your regular keys work, they do here.  I’ll do the move again 
to make sure I didn’t miss any commands.

Just tested again, works as advertised.  Insure the menu is open.


> On Apr 11, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:
> 
> Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
> curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always 
> used to be this way.
> 
> At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(
> 
> Jeff
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
>> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of 
>> WiFi and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to 
>> WiFi.  Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information 
>> about your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off 
>> WiFi and the list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields 
>> including your IP address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the 
>> signal level and the protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  
>> Use this or the equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.
>> 
>> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual 
>> control.  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the 
>> same SSID and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This 
>> means you will use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your 
>> interface card and router will select the best bands for you to use 
>> typically when you connect.  This also has benefits in the Apple world 
>> allowing your watch to join WiFi because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and 
>> derives the network to connect to from your phone.  If your phone is 
>> connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch will not connect.  If everything is 
>> the same name the watch will connect just fine but again this is but a side 
>> benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select the best band for the 
>> conditions.
>> 
>> Hope that helps.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
>>> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
>>> 2.4GHZ.
>>> 
>>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
>>> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
>>> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or 
>>> just default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>>> 
>>> Thx,
>>> Jeff
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
 wrote:
 
 OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
 in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy 
 on this side of the keyboard.:)
 
 PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
 only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
 you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
 WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
 someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
 it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
 range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
 and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
 I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
 course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
 AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
 pass phrase.
 
 WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
 is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
 
 WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very 
 effective and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden 
 the connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest 
 to crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
 
 
 Next, let’s talk channels.
 
 (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as 
 your self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be 
 patient)
 
 There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
 country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
 the 5.0 ghz band.  

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

I thought that worked all the way back through the various cats.:)

You might not get as much data that’s a long way back for me to remember.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 1:10 PM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> well,
> I tried the direction you gave here, unfortunately, I didn't get the expected 
> results. It would do this in bluetooth, but not in WiFi. It could be that I 
> am also on OS X Lion (its old, I know, but its the only mac I have).
> 
> -eric
> 
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 7:22 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
> 
>> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
>> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of 
>> WiFi and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to 
>> WiFi.  Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information 
>> about your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off 
>> WiFi and the list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields 
>> including your IP address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the 
>> signal level and the protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  
>> Use this or the equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.
>> 
>> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual 
>> control.  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the 
>> same SSID and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This 
>> means you will use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your 
>> interface card and router will select the best bands for you to use 
>> typically when you connect.  This also has benefits in the Apple world 
>> allowing your watch to join WiFi because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and 
>> derives the network to connect to from your phone.  If your phone is 
>> connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch will not connect.  If everything is 
>> the same name the watch will connect just fine but again this is but a side 
>> benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select the best band for the 
>> conditions.
>> 
>> Hope that helps.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
>>> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
>>> 2.4GHZ.
>>> 
>>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
>>> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
>>> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or 
>>> just default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>>> 
>>> Thx,
>>> Jeff
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
 wrote:
 
 OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
 in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy 
 on this side of the keyboard.:)
 
 PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
 only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
 you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
 WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
 someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
 it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
 range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
 and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
 I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
 course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
 AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
 pass phrase.
 
 WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
 is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
 
 WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very 
 effective and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden 
 the connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest 
 to crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
 
 
 Next, let’s talk channels.
 
 (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as 
 your self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be 
 patient)
 
 There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
 country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
 the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new 
 and yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of 
 this for now to not over 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

But that defeats band steering or automatic band selection and optimization.

You can do that if you want manual control but it’s not advisable if you want 
the full feature set.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 11:46 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> actually, if you just add the frequency range numbers as part of the SSID 
> name (in my case: FUBAR-2.4 or FUBAR-5.0) it will allow you to differentiate 
> the two very easily.
> 
> -eric
> 
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 7:06 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
> 
>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
>> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
>> 2.4GHZ.
>> 
>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
>> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
>> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just 
>> default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>> 
>> Thx,
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
>>> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
>>> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
>>> range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
>>> and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
>>> I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
>>> course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
>>> AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
>>> pass phrase.
>>> 
>>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>>> 
>>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>>> 
>>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>>> 
>>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>>> for now to not over complicate.
>>> On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels 
>>> overlap so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at 
>>> least 5 for separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, 
>>> channels 1 and 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have 
>>> collisions between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason 
>>> are 1, 6 and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with 
>>> channels 6 and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 
>>> 40 mhz under normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode 
>>> enabled which is usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if 
>>> another signal is received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty 
>>> channel but be mindful of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is 
>>> the most congested.  You’re contending with everything from garage door 
>>> openers to microwave ovens with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here 
>>> and all sorts of baby monitors and things.
>>> 
>>> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
>>> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
>>> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper 
>>> band at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which 
>>> includes 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other 
>>> RADAR so you may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up 
>>> you’ll select a new one.  Not all gear supports DFS and likely different 
>>> countries handle this differently.  Also, the first 20 

Re: VPN questions

[Jeff Berwick]

Okay, I went to Wifi with my Voiceover curser and then used VO + command + [f5] 
and then held option while I pressed my Track pad….This worked.

Thx,
Jeff

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 3:04 PM, E.T.  wrote:
> 
>   Hmmm, it must have been a fluke for I cannot do it now. Do you have a 
> mouse? If so you can option click on Wifi.
> 
> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
> 
> On 4/11/2017 11:50 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
>> When I hold it a bit longer, I hear “Cancel WIFI” when I release the keys.
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:44 PM, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Jeff,
>>>  Activate Wifi as usual with VO-Space but hold it a bit longer than usual. 
>>> You will get the extended information.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>>> mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>>> our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>>> and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
>>> On 4/11/2017 10:46 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
 Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my 
 VO curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t 
 always used to be this way.
 
 At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(
 
 Jeff
 
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  
> wrote:
> 
> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of 
> WiFi and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right 
> to WiFi.  Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more 
> information about your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just 
> hearing turn off WiFi and the list of the networks near by you’ll now 
> have more fields including your IP address, the channel you’re on, the 
> noise level, the signal level and the protocol you’re using as well as 
> the negotiated speed.  Use this or the equivalent on Windows to determine 
> your current status.
> 
> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual 
> control.  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all 
> the same SSID and your router supports it you will use band steering.  
> This means you will use the best band for the conditions at the time.  
> Your interface card and router will select the best bands for you to use 
> typically when you connect.  This also has benefits in the Apple world 
> allowing your watch to join WiFi because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only 
> and derives the network to connect to from your phone.  If your phone is 
> connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch will not connect.  If everything 
> is the same name the watch will connect just fine but again this is but a 
> side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select the best band for the 
> conditions.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done 
>> as you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as 
>> my 2.4GHZ.
>> 
>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I 
>> now know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a 
>> way to prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ 
>> first or just default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>> 
>> Thx,
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a 
>>> difference in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s 
>>> probably the guy on this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  
>>> Your only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but 
>>> then you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good 
>>> password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network 
>>> using WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you 
>>> know.  Why someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase 
>>> baffles me because it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid 
>>> characters are in the range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole 
>>> alphabet, all the punctuation and so forth you can see how much this 
>>> improves 

New round of public betas released including 10.3.2 beta 2

[Scott Granados]

For anyone interested, new round of betas have been released.  I specifically 
mention this because it addresses issues preventing 3rd party VPNs from 
functioning.  Several people have contacted me about this so I figured I’d give 
a general heads up here.  The release notes say this issue has been addressed 
in t his release.  I’ll install and test but it’s out there if you need it.

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Re: VPN questions

[E.T.]

   Hmmm, it must have been a fluke for I cannot do it now. Do you have 
a mouse? If so you can option click on Wifi.


From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

On 4/11/2017 11:50 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:

When I hold it a bit longer, I hear “Cancel WIFI” when I release the keys.
Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:44 PM, E.T.  wrote:

Jeff,
  Activate Wifi as usual with VO-Space but hold it a bit longer than usual. You 
will get the extended information.

From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the
 mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
 our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
 and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

On 4/11/2017 10:46 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:

Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always used 
to be this way.

At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(

Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about your 
connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and the 
list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your IP 
address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.

When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control.  
You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select 
the best band for the conditions.

Hope that helps.




On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:

This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as you 
suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 2.4GHZ.

Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now know 
whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to prefer one 
over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just default to 
the stronger/clear band/channel?

Thx,
Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
side of the keyboard.:)

PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your only 
option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re still 
using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because it’s 
far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 0 to 9 
instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so forth you 
can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken networks in 
under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly you guess the 
pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively 
locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.

WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.

WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective and 
uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the connection.  
This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack and uses the 
most bits in key and group generation.


Next, let’s talk channels.

(Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
self 

Re: Using Lame encoder in Mac with Audacity

['Chris Blouch' via MacVisionaries]

You can also install it via MacPorts, but I've never used audacity. sox is 
another nice audio encoding package that works from the command line.


CB


-Original Message-
From: Sandi Jazmin Kruse 
To: macvisionaries 
Sent: Tue, Apr 11, 2017 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: Using Lame encoder in Mac with Audacity

i may have it somewhere, it is tolerate today for me to look for it
though, google lame encoder mac, and it might pop up.

On 4/11/17, Barry Hadder  wrote:
> You can get the lame encoder through one of the package managers such as
> homebrew or macports.  I use homebrew and it is at https://brew.sh
> .
> You could then type brew install lame at the command prompt.
> I'm sure you could also get a Mac install package from somewhere like source
> forge.
>
> After it is installed, you would either use it at the command line or set up
> whatever gui app you are wanting to use it through.  I don't know anything
> about audacity, so you would have to know how to do that.
>
>
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 20:29, Sharon Hooley  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I want to install Lame Encoder on my latest version of Mac, and use it with
> Audacity 2.11 screen reader version.  Do I use the same lame encoder
> download file that I would use in Windows?  And how do I install/use it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac
> Visionaries list.
>
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if
> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or
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> Barry Hadder
> bhad...@gmail.com
>
>
>
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Re: How do I create a script using Automator which can later be used in dictation under workflow for dragging and dropping?

[Jerry Mader]

> 
> Well honestly I've already resolve this problem but what I'm trying to do is 
> to make Dictation dragon drop stuff onto my DJ software. So if I'm in the 
> Finder window, I want to be able to tell my device to mark something for 
> drag-and-drop and then when I'm in the window where I'm supposed to drag and 
> drop it I want to be able to tell it to just drag-and-drop.

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Selecting Feedly Groups

[Angus MacKinnon]

> I am using Feedly in Google chrome in my iMac's OS 10.11.6. How do I select 
> BBCHome after navigating to BBC Home with VO? After selecting BBC Home, I 
> wish to read all the headlines and select the story that interests me. Thank 
> you.
> 
> Angus MacKinnon
> 

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Re: VPN questions

[Jeff Berwick]

When I hold it a bit longer, I hear “Cancel WIFI” when I release the keys.
Jeff

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:44 PM, E.T.  wrote:
> 
> Jeff,
>   Activate Wifi as usual with VO-Space but hold it a bit longer than usual. 
> You will get the extended information.
> 
> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
> 
> On 4/11/2017 10:46 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:
>> Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
>> curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always 
>> used to be this way.
>> 
>> At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(
>> 
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
>>> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of 
>>> WiFi and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to 
>>> WiFi.  Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information 
>>> about your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off 
>>> WiFi and the list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields 
>>> including your IP address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the 
>>> signal level and the protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed. 
>>>  Use this or the equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.
>>> 
>>> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual 
>>> control.  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all 
>>> the same SSID and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This 
>>> means you will use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your 
>>> interface card and router will select the best bands for you to use 
>>> typically when you connect.  This also has benefits in the Apple world 
>>> allowing your watch to join WiFi because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only 
>>> and derives the network to connect to from your phone.  If your phone is 
>>> connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch will not connect.  If everything 
>>> is the same name the watch will connect just fine but again this is but a 
>>> side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select the best band for the 
>>> conditions.
>>> 
>>> Hope that helps.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  
 wrote:
 
 This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done 
 as you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
 2.4GHZ.
 
 Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
 know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
 prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or 
 just default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
 
 Thx,
 Jeff
 
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
> wrote:
> 
> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy 
> on this side of the keyboard.:)
> 
> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>   I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me 
> because it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are 
> in the range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the 
> punctuation and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of 
> cracking.  I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method 
> assuming of course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off 
> and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I 
> can’t guess your pass phrase.
> 
> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  
> This is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
> 
> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very 
> effective and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to 
> Harden the connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the 
> hardest to crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
> 
> 
> Next, let’s talk channels.
> 
> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so 

Re: Accessible dj software for the mac

[Jerry Mader]

Currently there is no way to tell what track is playing there is no way to tell 
when the track is about to end and there is one way you can move items into the 
queue. Or rather at the top of the list. When you are on your queue press the 
command key plus the left or right arrow depending on what deck you have it 
loaded on. For example if you want to load the item on to the left deck your 
price the command plus left arrow key. If you want to load it onto the right 
deck press command plus the right arrow key. Then you're going to have to 
listen by ear until the song starts to fade out. When does press the left arrow 
key to play that particular item. I hope this helps. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:36 PM, Esubalew Johnston  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys thanks so much for sharing that information I just bought DJ pro 
> two. Does anyone know where we can find the key commands for DJ pro thanks in 
> advance
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 3:04 PM, Nektarios Mallas  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello there. 
>> I have been using dj pro for a while and I must say that for the most part 
>> it is quite usable with voice over.
>> However, I have a serious problem. Is there any way to tell which track is 
>> currently playing and which one is going to play next? 
>> Also, how can you move a song somewhere in the queue from its location to 
>> the top so that It can be played next?
>> 
>> Thanks for any help.
>> 
>> Nektarios.
>> 
>>> On 28 Mar 2017, at 1:28 PM, Jerry Mader  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello there Bryant. The program that I use is something called Djay pro. It 
>>> cost me 50 bucks but it's worth it. Most of what you want to do is 
>>> accessible with voiceover. I'm still learning it myself but most of it is 
>>> done by hot cheese. Take care. Jerry Mader
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Mar 28, 2017, at 4:21 AM, Brian Howerton  wrote:
 
 Hello folks,
 I am looking in to beginning to dj weddings and private parties. I 
 understand that djay pro on the mac is accessible, and i would love to 
 talk with anybody who is using it successfully to dj. Also, would love to 
 hear suggestions of accessible dj midi controllers that interface well 
 with the software, and what works well from a blindness perspective. Feel 
 free to write me off-list as well. Thanks in advance for the 
 recommendations.
 Brian
 
 Get Outlook for iOS
 
 
 -- 
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 Visionaries list.
  
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 if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
 owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
  
 Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor. You can reach mark at: 
 macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - 
 you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
  
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>>> Visionaries list.
>>>  
>>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners 
>>> or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>>>  
>>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor. You can reach mark at: 
>>> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - 
>>> you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>>>  
>>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
>>> --- 
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>>> "MacVisionaries" group.
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>>> email to macvisionaries+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>>  
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of 

Re: VPN questions

[E.T.]

Jeff,
   Activate Wifi as usual with VO-Space but hold it a bit longer than 
usual. You will get the extended information.


From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

On 4/11/2017 10:46 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:

Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always used 
to be this way.

At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(

Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about your 
connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and the 
list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your IP 
address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.

When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control.  
You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select 
the best band for the conditions.

Hope that helps.




On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:

This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as you 
suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 2.4GHZ.

Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now know 
whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to prefer one 
over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just default to 
the stronger/clear band/channel?

Thx,
Jeff


On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:

OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
side of the keyboard.:)

PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your only 
option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re still 
using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because it’s 
far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 0 to 9 
instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so forth you 
can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken networks in 
under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly you guess the 
pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively 
locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.

WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.

WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective and 
uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the connection.  
This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack and uses the 
most bits in key and group generation.


Next, let’s talk channels.

(Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)

There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of the 
5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and yes 
there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this for now 
to not over complicate.
On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The 

Re: Using Lame encoder in Mac with Audacity

[Sandi Jazmin Kruse]

i may have it somewhere, it is tolerate today for me to look for it
though, google lame encoder mac, and it might pop up.

On 4/11/17, Barry Hadder  wrote:
> You can get the lame encoder through one of the package managers such as
> homebrew or macports.  I use homebrew and it is at https://brew.sh
> .
> You could then type brew install lame at the command prompt.
> I'm sure you could also get a Mac install package from somewhere like source
> forge.
>
> After it is installed, you would either use it at the command line or set up
> whatever gui app you are wanting to use it through.  I don't know anything
> about audacity, so you would have to know how to do that.
>
>
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 20:29, Sharon Hooley  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I want to install Lame Encoder on my latest version of Mac, and use it with
> Audacity 2.11 screen reader version.  Do I use the same lame encoder
> download file that I would use in Windows?  And how do I install/use it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac
> Visionaries list.
>
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if
> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or
> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:
> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you
> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
> ---
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MacVisionaries" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to macvisionaries+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> Barry Hadder
> bhad...@gmail.com
>
>
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Re: Using Lame encoder in Mac with Audacity

[Barry Hadder]

You can get the lame encoder through one of the package managers such as 
homebrew or macports.  I use homebrew and it is at https://brew.sh 
.
You could then type brew install lame at the command prompt.
I'm sure you could also get a Mac install package from somewhere like source 
forge.

After it is installed, you would either use it at the command line or set up 
whatever gui app you are wanting to use it through.  I don't know anything 
about audacity, so you would have to know how to do that.


On Apr 10, 2017, at 20:29, Sharon Hooley  wrote:

Hi,

I want to install Lame Encoder on my latest version of Mac, and use it with 
Audacity 2.11 screen reader version.  Do I use the same lame encoder download 
file that I would use in Windows?  And how do I install/use it?

Thanks,

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IPad Pro in place of laptop?

[Nickus de Vos]

Hi all
Has anyone got a iPad Pro which they use for real computing tasks?
By real computing tasks I mean tasks which would normally be performed with a 
laptop rather than a tablet. The reason I ask is because i'm trying to find out 
whether it will be worth it to get a iPad Pro rather than a laptop for my work, 
specifically at iPad Pro rather than a MacBook Air. 

I'm looking to get a device for document editing, Internet browsing and 
emailing on the go, so nothing too hectic, obviously if going for the iPad I 
will automatically get a keyboard as well for the easier typing. 

So, do you think it's viable to get the iPad Pro rather than a laptop?

Nick

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: VPN questions

[Jeff Berwick]

Is there another way to get this information?  It seems I need to use my VO 
curser to move across the extras menu—although I remember it didn’t always used 
to be this way.  

At any rate, I can’t make your keystroke work. :-(

Jeff

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
> 
> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
> and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
> Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about 
> your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and 
> the list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your 
> IP address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
> protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
> equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.
> 
> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control. 
>  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
> and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
> use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
> router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
> This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
> because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
> from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
> will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
> fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll 
> select the best band for the conditions.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:
>> 
>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
>> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
>> 2.4GHZ.
>> 
>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
>> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
>> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just 
>> default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>> 
>> Thx,
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
>>> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
>>> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
>>> range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
>>> and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
>>> I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
>>> course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
>>> AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
>>> pass phrase.
>>> 
>>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>>> 
>>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>>> 
>>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>>> 
>>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>>> for now to not over complicate.
>>> On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels 
>>> overlap so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at 
>>> least 5 for separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not 

Re: Text Edit question

[Andrew Lamanche]

Hi,

David's solution still works: control+q followed by control+l.  Also, 
alternatively, you can go to edit/insert/page break and get it this way. The 
insert submenu under edit also has insert line  option.

Andrew
> On 10 Apr 2017, at 22:44, Linda  wrote:
> 
> I researched but can't find the answer.  In text Edit, what is the keyboard 
> shortcut to creat a New Page?  In Page it is command-entr but that doesn't 
> seem to work in Text edit.  Many thanks.
> 
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Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Andrew Lamanche]

Hi Mike,

Go to system preferences/ and choose "text" tab.  And then make sure that 
spelling popup button is set to "automatic by language".  It might help.

If that doesn't help, then there's another awkward way: when composing a 
document in German, and having switched your speech and keyboard to german, 
activate spelling checker with command+shift+semicolon and in the dialog that 
appears, set the popup button to German.  Hope this second method won't be 
necessary as it would require you to set it back to English once you've 
finished.
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 12:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
> eight years and love it.
> 
> Here’s the problem:
> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
> work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should 
> be.
> 
> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I 
> can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I 
> switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I get 
> a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I find 
> the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my MacBook 
> Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to have my 
> MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when I select a 
> typing input language?
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Mike 
> 
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Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

well,
I tried the direction you gave here, unfortunately, I didn't get the expected 
results. It would do this in bluetooth, but not in WiFi. It could be that I am 
also on OS X Lion (its old, I know, but its the only mac I have).

-eric

On Apr 11, 2017, at 7:22 AM, Scott Granados wrote:

> Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
> highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
> and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
> Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about 
> your connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and 
> the list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your 
> IP address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
> protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
> equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.
> 
> When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control. 
>  You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
> and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
> use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
> router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
> This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
> because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
> from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
> will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
> fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll 
> select the best band for the conditions.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:
>> 
>> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
>> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
>> 2.4GHZ.
>> 
>> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
>> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
>> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just 
>> default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
>> 
>> Thx,
>> Jeff
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
>>> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
>>> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
>>> range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
>>> and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
>>> I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
>>> course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
>>> AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
>>> pass phrase.
>>> 
>>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>>> 
>>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>>> 
>>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>>> 
>>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>>> for now to not over complicate.
>>> On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels 
>>> overlap so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at 
>>> least 5 for separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, 
>>> channels 1 and 

Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

that might work. However, I need an inexpensive source for that device. I have 
a couple of source companies I can go to, but they aren't at all cheap and my 
budget being what it is won't allow for expensive toys.

-eric

On Apr 11, 2017, at 7:15 AM, Scott Granados wrote:

> So when I did this I went with the first configuration.  I ran Power over 
> Ethernet up to the access points and ran the hardware inside enclosures.  I 
> was operating on a commercial tower though so had more of a budget to work 
> with.
> What about a hybrid approach.  Put your routers and the front end electronics 
> at your home end, put a 5 GHZ amplifier out at the far end of the cable at 
> the base of the antenna and power it from inside.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:46 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
>> 
>> yep,
>> I will have to take a closer look at some of the settings then. the current 
>> router is capable of 5 Ghz operation, however, getting an external antenna 
>> setup for that band is problematic at best (any length of coax is going to 
>> be very lossy and also extremely expensive. At this point, such a setup 
>> would be a bit more doable if I just build up a custom unit, use Power over 
>> Ethernet and mount the device in an all weather enclosure at the mast mount 
>> point. THis would have the benefit of eliminating feed line losses and 
>> reducing cost. In fact, I could have dual band operation in both 2.45 Ghz 
>> and 5 Ghz using separate antennas for each band.
>> 
>> one other possibility is to just have the transceiver units at the antenna 
>> point with both up and down conversion and run power and signals through 
>> coax to a unit inside the house that handles the heavy lifting. It seems 
>> more complicated, but in actuality has the side benefit of being able to 
>> access the device physically for any other work. In a lot of ways, it would 
>> actually be less expensive simply because you aren't trying to put the 
>> entire unit up in the air where heat and cold can adversely affect 
>> operation. This is basically how satellite does it.
>> 
>> -eric
>> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 6:12 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
>>> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
>>> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
>>> range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
>>> and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
>>> I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
>>> course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
>>> AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
>>> pass phrase.
>>> 
>>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>>> 
>>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>>> 
>>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>>> 
>>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>>> for now to not over complicate.
>>> On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels 
>>> overlap so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at 
>>> least 5 for separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, 
>>> channels 1 and 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have 
>>> collisions between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason 
>>> are 1, 6 and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with 
>>> channels 6 and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 
>>> 40 mhz under normal operation.  

Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

actually, if you just add the frequency range numbers as part of the SSID name 
(in my case: FUBAR-2.4 or FUBAR-5.0) it will allow you to differentiate the two 
very easily.

-eric

On Apr 11, 2017, at 7:06 AM, Jeff Berwick wrote:

> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
> 2.4GHZ.  
> 
> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just 
> default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
>> 
>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
>> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>> 
>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
>> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>  I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
>> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
>> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
>> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how 
>> quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption 
>> and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
>> 
>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>> 
>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>> 
>> 
>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>> 
>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>> 
>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>> for now to not over complicate.
>>  On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
>> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
>> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 
>> 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions 
>> between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 
>> and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 
>> and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under 
>> normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which 
>> is usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal 
>> is received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be 
>> mindful of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most 
>> congested.  You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to 
>> microwave ovens with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here and all sorts 
>> of baby monitors and things.
>> 
>> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
>> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
>> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper 
>> band at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which 
>> includes 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other 
>> RADAR so you may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up 
>> you’ll select a new one.  Not all gear supports DFS and likely different 
>> countries handle this differently.  Also, the first 20 MHz of the 5 ghz 
>> unlicensed frequency is dedicated to US cellular operators for LTE 
>> unlicensed, other countries will vary.
>>  On 5 GHZ you have 80 MHz of bandwidth so your effective throughput is 
>> faster.  Also, with the way the channels are deployed you have more spectrum 
>> so you’re not dealing with the overlapping problem.  You 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

I have mixed emotions about the Touch Bar, Anne, but I ordered this model 
anyway, because I know that sooner or later, it will be standard on all new 
machines.  I figured I might as well get used to it now, while I am still 
receptive enough to change.

With the new Mac, I find that I make a lot more typos in both languages, 
probably because the keyboard action is different.  When I really want to be 
efficient, I find myself using my Apple Keyboard with the Bluetooth connection, 
and this works fine for me.  Hopefully, as I become more acclimated to the new 
machine, I will use the Bluetooth keyboard less.

Anyway, all’s well that ends well, and thanks for your input.

Cheers from Austria,

Mike 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 16:09, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> I’m so glad you’ve solved your problem. So you have one of these new MacBooks 
> with the touchbar. I haven’t seen one yet.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 16:05, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> The problem is finally solved.
>> 
>> I went into the Keyboard preference, where I discovered that everything was 
>> defaulting to English.  For some reason, VO was not reading the top option 
>> in that menu that selects the language dictionary of the keyboard language.  
>> While I am glad that this option is available, I find it disquieting that I 
>> had to go through the menu options several times before VO read it out loud. 
>>  I will contact the Accessibility Group at Apple and apprise them of what 
>> happened.
>> 
>> Thanks for bearing with me.
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 15:44, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Did you see my reply with the explanation of how to reinitialise the PRAM? 
>>> My MacBook Air also has an SSD and the procedure works just fine and gives 
>>> me audio feedback.
>>> Was Sierra installed on your new MacBook when you got it or did you update 
>>> it yourself? I did a clean install of Sierra on my machine and so far, no 
>>> problems. However, on my French list, lots of people are having problems 
>>> with Sierra after simply updating rather than going to the trouble of a 
>>> clean install.
>>> I don’t know why some people have problems when others don’t, but it 
>>> happens a lot.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:49, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello Anne,
 
 Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t 
 have asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.
 
 That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM 
 was reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
 reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was 
 able to use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the 
 States who was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the 
 Utilities and was given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and 
 re-installing the operating system, etc.
 
 Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, 
 i.e. 100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.
 
 I’ll research this some more and get back to you.
 
 Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, 
 but that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be 
 somewhat different.
 
 Kindest regards,
 
 Mike
 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Thank you for your kind words.
> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and 
> I’m not having your problem.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
>> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
>> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years 
>> of fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
>> 
>> My best as always, Anne,
>> 
>> Mike 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the 
>>> appropriate dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching 
>>> between British English and French.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello everyone,
 

Re: VPN questions

[Donna Goodin]

It does.  Not sure when we're going to replace our Extreme, but when we do, 
I'll take a look at both these.
Cheers,
Donna
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:45 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
> 
> Donna, depends on a lot of factors like size of the area you want to cover, 
> features you want, dollars you want to spend etc.  But here’s a rough idea.
> 
> If you want for general use over a fixed area Netgear has some good products. 
>  I use a higher end R8500 that’s very fast, has 8 antennas and does a decent 
> job.  However, there’s a new technology out there that deserves your 
> consideration.  Plume makes a distributed system.  You plug a plume in as 
> your router and hook up other plumes around your house to cover the whole 
> area.  They sell them in singles or packs of 3 and 6, I think a 6 pack is 
> $320.  You’d put one in each room for example and they form a mesh.  They use 
> a cloud back end to communicate and move clients around to the specific plume 
> that best serves them.  They also move traffic in the mesh efficiently so you 
> can fill in dead spots and cover a much larger area more consistently.  
> Google as a similar product called Google Wifi and Netgear has a product 
> called Orbi.  Plume is getting the best ratings, I have not tried one yet.  
> The net gear R8500 router I mentioned is about $499 but you can buy lower 
> down the product line where devices range in the $299 and lower price point.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
>> 
>> So, a follow-up question.  We're still using our Airport Extreme, but since 
>> Apple has gotten out of that biz, it seems unlikely that these newer 
>> features will be supported.  Any recommendations for a replacement router?
>> Donna
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:28 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Glad to be of help.  There’s a lot of features on these modern routers and 
>>> it’s important to set them right not only for performance but so you don’t 
>>> impact your neighbors and of course so you’re secure.  Home use is pretty 
>>> simple but a lot of this comes in to play on more complex networks with 
>>> many access points.  A lot of what I’m talking about are handled 
>>> automatically by things like Google WiFi and Plume so I think you’re going 
>>> to see a lot more of these distributed WiFi systems for this reason, it 
>>> makes things simple.
>>> 
>>> Glad to be of help as always Donna.
>>> 
>>> Feel free to distribute as needed.
>>> 
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:16 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
 
 Hey Scott,
 
 Thanks so much for taking the time to write this.  I've always found this 
 stuff to be a bit over my head, and this is the best explanation I've ever 
 seen.
 Cheers,
 Donna
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Scott Granados  
> wrote:
> 
> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy 
> on this side of the keyboard.:)
> 
> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>   I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me 
> because it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are 
> in the range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the 
> punctuation and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of 
> cracking.  I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method 
> assuming of course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off 
> and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I 
> can’t guess your pass phrase.
> 
> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  
> This is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
> 
> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very 
> effective and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to 
> Harden the connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the 
> hardest to crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
> 
> 
> Next, let’s talk channels.
> 
> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as 
> your self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be 
> patient)
> 
> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country 
> to country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two 
> 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Donna, depends on a lot of factors like size of the area you want to cover, 
features you want, dollars you want to spend etc.  But here’s a rough idea.

If you want for general use over a fixed area Netgear has some good products.  
I use a higher end R8500 that’s very fast, has 8 antennas and does a decent 
job.  However, there’s a new technology out there that deserves your 
consideration.  Plume makes a distributed system.  You plug a plume in as your 
router and hook up other plumes around your house to cover the whole area.  
They sell them in singles or packs of 3 and 6, I think a 6 pack is $320.  You’d 
put one in each room for example and they form a mesh.  They use a cloud back 
end to communicate and move clients around to the specific plume that best 
serves them.  They also move traffic in the mesh efficiently so you can fill in 
dead spots and cover a much larger area more consistently.  Google as a similar 
product called Google Wifi and Netgear has a product called Orbi.  Plume is 
getting the best ratings, I have not tried one yet.  The net gear R8500 router 
I mentioned is about $499 but you can buy lower down the product line where 
devices range in the $299 and lower price point.

Hope that helps.



> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
> 
> So, a follow-up question.  We're still using our Airport Extreme, but since 
> Apple has gotten out of that biz, it seems unlikely that these newer features 
> will be supported.  Any recommendations for a replacement router?
> Donna
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:28 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
>> 
>> Glad to be of help.  There’s a lot of features on these modern routers and 
>> it’s important to set them right not only for performance but so you don’t 
>> impact your neighbors and of course so you’re secure.  Home use is pretty 
>> simple but a lot of this comes in to play on more complex networks with many 
>> access points.  A lot of what I’m talking about are handled automatically by 
>> things like Google WiFi and Plume so I think you’re going to see a lot more 
>> of these distributed WiFi systems for this reason, it makes things simple.
>> 
>> Glad to be of help as always Donna.
>> 
>> Feel free to distribute as needed.
>> 
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:16 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey Scott,
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much for taking the time to write this.  I've always found this 
>>> stuff to be a bit over my head, and this is the best explanation I've ever 
>>> seen.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Donna
 On Apr 11, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Scott Granados  
 wrote:
 
 OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
 in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy 
 on this side of the keyboard.:)
 
 PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
 only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
 you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
 WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
 someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
 it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
 range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
 and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
 I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
 course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
 AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
 pass phrase.
 
 WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
 is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
 
 WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very 
 effective and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden 
 the connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest 
 to crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
 
 
 Next, let’s talk channels.
 
 (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as 
 your self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be 
 patient)
 
 There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
 country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
 the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new 
 and yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of 
 this for now to not over complicate.
On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
 there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for 

Re: VPN questions

[Donna Goodin]

So, a follow-up question.  We're still using our Airport Extreme, but since 
Apple has gotten out of that biz, it seems unlikely that these newer features 
will be supported.  Any recommendations for a replacement router?
Donna

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:28 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
> 
> Glad to be of help.  There’s a lot of features on these modern routers and 
> it’s important to set them right not only for performance but so you don’t 
> impact your neighbors and of course so you’re secure.  Home use is pretty 
> simple but a lot of this comes in to play on more complex networks with many 
> access points.  A lot of what I’m talking about are handled automatically by 
> things like Google WiFi and Plume so I think you’re going to see a lot more 
> of these distributed WiFi systems for this reason, it makes things simple.
> 
> Glad to be of help as always Donna.
> 
> Feel free to distribute as needed.
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:16 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Scott,
>> 
>> Thanks so much for taking the time to write this.  I've always found this 
>> stuff to be a bit over my head, and this is the best explanation I've ever 
>> seen.
>> Cheers,
>> Donna
>>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Scott Granados  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference 
>>> in terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>>> 
>>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then 
>>> you’re still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>> I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the 
>>> range 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation 
>>> and so forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  
>>> I’ve broken networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of 
>>> course how quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the 
>>> AES encryption and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your 
>>> pass phrase.
>>> 
>>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>>> 
>>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>>> 
>>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>>> 
>>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>>> for now to not over complicate.
>>> On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels 
>>> overlap so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at 
>>> least 5 for separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, 
>>> channels 1 and 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have 
>>> collisions between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason 
>>> are 1, 6 and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with 
>>> channels 6 and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 
>>> 40 mhz under normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode 
>>> enabled which is usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if 
>>> another signal is received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty 
>>> channel but be mindful of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is 
>>> the most congested.  You’re contending with everything from garage door 
>>> openers to microwave ovens with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here 
>>> and all sorts of baby monitors and things.
>>> 
>>> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
>>> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
>>> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper 
>>> band at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which 
>>> includes 132 and several others.  DFS is also 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Glad to be of help.  There’s a lot of features on these modern routers and it’s 
important to set them right not only for performance but so you don’t impact 
your neighbors and of course so you’re secure.  Home use is pretty simple but a 
lot of this comes in to play on more complex networks with many access points.  
A lot of what I’m talking about are handled automatically by things like Google 
WiFi and Plume so I think you’re going to see a lot more of these distributed 
WiFi systems for this reason, it makes things simple.

Glad to be of help as always Donna.

Feel free to distribute as needed.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:16 AM, Donna Goodin  wrote:
> 
> Hey Scott,
> 
> Thanks so much for taking the time to write this.  I've always found this 
> stuff to be a bit over my head, and this is the best explanation I've ever 
> seen.
> Cheers,
> Donna
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
>> 
>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
>> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>> 
>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
>> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>  I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
>> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
>> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
>> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how 
>> quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption 
>> and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
>> 
>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>> 
>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>> 
>> 
>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>> 
>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>> 
>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>> for now to not over complicate.
>>  On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
>> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
>> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 
>> 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions 
>> between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 
>> and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 
>> and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under 
>> normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which 
>> is usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal 
>> is received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be 
>> mindful of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most 
>> congested.  You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to 
>> microwave ovens with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here and all sorts 
>> of baby monitors and things.
>> 
>> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
>> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
>> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper 
>> band at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which 
>> includes 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other 
>> RADAR so you may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up 
>> you’ll select a new one.  Not all gear supports DFS and likely different 
>> countries handle this differently.  Also, the first 20 MHz of the 5 ghz 
>> unlicensed frequency is dedicated to US cellular operators for LTE 
>> unlicensed, other countries will vary.
>>  On 5 GHZ you have 80 MHz of 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Great question, on your Mac if you’re  using a Mac press vo m twice and 
highlight your WiFi settings, then arrow once left to the object left of WiFi 
and hold down the option key (one left of command) and arrow right to WiFi.  
Holding down option while opening WiFi yields a lot more information about your 
connection.  As you arrow down instead of just hearing turn off WiFi and the 
list of the networks near by you’ll now have more fields including your IP 
address, the channel you’re on, the noise level, the signal level and the 
protocol you’re using as well as the negotiated speed.  Use this or the 
equivalent on Windows to determine your current status.

When you have separate names for SSIDs on both bands you have manual control.  
You can join one or the other which is fine but if you use all the same SSID 
and your router supports it you will use band steering.  This means you will 
use the best band for the conditions at the time.  Your interface card and 
router will select the best bands for you to use typically when you connect.  
This also has benefits in the Apple world allowing your watch to join WiFi 
because the watch supports 2.4 ghz only and derives the network to connect to 
from your phone.  If your phone is connected to a 5GHz SSID only your watch 
will not connect.  If everything is the same name the watch will connect just 
fine but again this is but a side benefit.  The main advantage is you’ll select 
the best band for the conditions.

Hope that helps.



> On Apr 11, 2017, at 10:06 AM, Jeff Berwick  wrote:
> 
> This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as 
> you suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 
> 2.4GHZ.
> 
> Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now 
> know whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to 
> prefer one over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just 
> default to the stronger/clear band/channel?
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
>> 
>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
>> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>> 
>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
>> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>  I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
>> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
>> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
>> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how 
>> quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption 
>> and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
>> 
>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>> 
>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>> 
>> 
>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>> 
>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>> 
>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>> for now to not over complicate.
>>  On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
>> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
>> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 
>> 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions 
>> between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 
>> and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 
>> and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under 
>> normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which 
>> is usually the 

Re: VPN questions

[Donna Goodin]

Hey Scott,

Thanks so much for taking the time to write this.  I've always found this stuff 
to be a bit over my head, and this is the best explanation I've ever seen.
Cheers,
Donna
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
> 
> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
> side of the keyboard.:)
> 
> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>   I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly 
> you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m 
> effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
> 
> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
> ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
> 
> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack 
> and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
> 
> 
> Next, let’s talk channels.
> 
> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
> 
> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
> for now to not over complicate.
>   On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 3 
> do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions between 
> the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 and 11.  
> This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 and 11.  
> If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under normal 
> operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which is 
> usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal is 
> received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be mindful 
> of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most congested.  
> You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to microwave ovens 
> with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here and all sorts of baby monitors 
> and things.
> 
> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper band 
> at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which includes 
> 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other RADAR so you 
> may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up you’ll select a new 
> one.  Not all gear supports DFS and likely different countries handle this 
> differently.  Also, the first 20 MHz of the 5 ghz unlicensed frequency is 
> dedicated to US cellular operators for LTE unlicensed, other countries will 
> vary.
>   On 5 GHZ you have 80 MHz of bandwidth so your effective throughput is 
> faster.  Also, with the way the channels are deployed you have more spectrum 
> so you’re not dealing with the overlapping problem.  You can be on channel 
> 149 and have a radio on 153 and you’ll be ok in this instance.
> 
> So bottom lining it, if you can, use 5 GHz.  It carries differently than 2.4 
> and interacts more with things like walls and bricks but if you’re in a good 
> setting the lack of congestion and more spectrum work in your favor.
> 
> So in my example, the optimal setup is as follows.
> 
> Set WPA2 for security, reduce the key interval from 3600 to 900 seconds, have 
> a nice healthy long key, disable WPS, use the same SSID on 2.4 and 5 GHZ so 
> you can take advantage of band steering and 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

So when I did this I went with the first configuration.  I ran Power over 
Ethernet up to the access points and ran the hardware inside enclosures.  I was 
operating on a commercial tower though so had more of a budget to work with.
What about a hybrid approach.  Put your routers and the front end electronics 
at your home end, put a 5 GHZ amplifier out at the far end of the cable at the 
base of the antenna and power it from inside.



> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:46 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> yep,
> I will have to take a closer look at some of the settings then. the current 
> router is capable of 5 Ghz operation, however, getting an external antenna 
> setup for that band is problematic at best (any length of coax is going to be 
> very lossy and also extremely expensive. At this point, such a setup would be 
> a bit more doable if I just build up a custom unit, use Power over Ethernet 
> and mount the device in an all weather enclosure at the mast mount point. 
> THis would have the benefit of eliminating feed line losses and reducing 
> cost. In fact, I could have dual band operation in both 2.45 Ghz and 5 Ghz 
> using separate antennas for each band.
> 
> one other possibility is to just have the transceiver units at the antenna 
> point with both up and down conversion and run power and signals through coax 
> to a unit inside the house that handles the heavy lifting. It seems more 
> complicated, but in actuality has the side benefit of being able to access 
> the device physically for any other work. In a lot of ways, it would actually 
> be less expensive simply because you aren't trying to put the entire unit up 
> in the air where heat and cold can adversely affect operation. This is 
> basically how satellite does it.
> 
> -eric
> 
> On Apr 11, 2017, at 6:12 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
> 
>> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
>> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on 
>> this side of the keyboard.:)
>> 
>> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
>> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
>> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>>  I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
>> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
>> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
>> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
>> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
>> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
>> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how 
>> quickly you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption 
>> and I’m effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
>> 
>> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This 
>> is ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
>> 
>> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
>> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
>> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to 
>> crack and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
>> 
>> 
>> Next, let’s talk channels.
>> 
>> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
>> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
>> 
>> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
>> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
>> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
>> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
>> for now to not over complicate.
>>  On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
>> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
>> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
>> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 
>> 3 do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions 
>> between the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 
>> and 11.  This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 
>> and 11.  If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under 
>> normal operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which 
>> is usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal 
>> is received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be 
>> mindful of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most 
>> congested.  You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to 
>> 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Mike,

I’m so glad you’ve solved your problem. So you have one of these new MacBooks 
with the touchbar. I haven’t seen one yet.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 16:05, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello Anne,
> 
> The problem is finally solved.
> 
> I went into the Keyboard preference, where I discovered that everything was 
> defaulting to English.  For some reason, VO was not reading the top option in 
> that menu that selects the language dictionary of the keyboard language.  
> While I am glad that this option is available, I find it disquieting that I 
> had to go through the menu options several times before VO read it out loud.  
> I will contact the Accessibility Group at Apple and apprise them of what 
> happened.
> 
> Thanks for bearing with me.
> 
> Mike
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 15:44, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Did you see my reply with the explanation of how to reinitialise the PRAM? 
>> My MacBook Air also has an SSD and the procedure works just fine and gives 
>> me audio feedback.
>> Was Sierra installed on your new MacBook when you got it or did you update 
>> it yourself? I did a clean install of Sierra on my machine and so far, no 
>> problems. However, on my French list, lots of people are having problems 
>> with Sierra after simply updating rather than going to the trouble of a 
>> clean install.
>> I don’t know why some people have problems when others don’t, but it happens 
>> a lot.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:49, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Anne,
>>> 
>>> Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t 
>>> have asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.
>>> 
>>> That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM 
>>> was reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
>>> reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was able 
>>> to use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the 
>>> States who was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the 
>>> Utilities and was given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and 
>>> re-installing the operating system, etc.
>>> 
>>> Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, 
>>> i.e. 100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.
>>> 
>>> I’ll research this some more and get back to you.
>>> 
>>> Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, 
>>> but that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be 
>>> somewhat different.
>>> 
>>> Kindest regards,
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
 
 Hello Mike,
 
 Thank you for your kind words.
 Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
 Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and 
 I’m not having your problem.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Anne
 
 
 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello Anne,
> 
> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
> 
> My best as always, Anne,
> 
> Mike 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the 
>> appropriate dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching 
>> between British English and French.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for 
>>> over eight years and love it.
>>> 
>>> Here’s the problem:
>>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and 
>>> US keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
>>> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the 
>>> way it should be.
>>> 
>>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going 
>>> south.  I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing 
>>> in German, I switch my output speech language to German.  However, 
>>> whenever typing, I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word 
>>> I type.  Where can I find the proper dictionary to download so that 
>>> when writing in German, my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  
>>> Furthermore, is 

Re: VPN questions

[Jeff Berwick]

This thread is very fascinating and mostly over my head, but I have done as you 
suggested and changed the name of my 5GHZ band to be the same as my 2.4GHZ.  

Now, if you don’t mind answering what may be a dumb question, how do I now know 
whether I’m connecting to the 5 or the 2.4 band?  Is there a way to prefer one 
over the other?  Will it automatically try the 5GHZ first or just default to 
the stronger/clear band/channel?

Thx,
Jeff

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:12 AM, Scott Granados  wrote:
> 
> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
> side of the keyboard.:)
> 
> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>   I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly 
> you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m 
> effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
> 
> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
> ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
> 
> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack 
> and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
> 
> 
> Next, let’s talk channels.
> 
> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
> 
> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
> for now to not over complicate.
>   On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 3 
> do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions between 
> the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 and 11.  
> This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 and 11.  
> If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under normal 
> operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which is 
> usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal is 
> received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be mindful 
> of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most congested.  
> You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to microwave ovens 
> with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here and all sorts of baby monitors 
> and things.
> 
> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper band 
> at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which includes 
> 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other RADAR so you 
> may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up you’ll select a new 
> one.  Not all gear supports DFS and likely different countries handle this 
> differently.  Also, the first 20 MHz of the 5 ghz unlicensed frequency is 
> dedicated to US cellular operators for LTE unlicensed, other countries will 
> vary.
>   On 5 GHZ you have 80 MHz of bandwidth so your effective throughput is 
> faster.  Also, with the way the channels are deployed you have more spectrum 
> so you’re not dealing with the overlapping problem.  You can be on channel 
> 149 and have a radio on 153 and you’ll be ok in this instance.
> 
> So bottom lining it, if you can, use 5 GHz.  It carries differently than 2.4 
> and interacts more with things like walls and bricks but if you’re in a good 
> setting the lack of congestion and more spectrum work in your favor.
> 
> 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hello Anne,

The problem is finally solved.

I went into the Keyboard preference, where I discovered that everything was 
defaulting to English.  For some reason, VO was not reading the top option in 
that menu that selects the language dictionary of the keyboard language.  While 
I am glad that this option is available, I find it disquieting that I had to go 
through the menu options several times before VO read it out loud.  I will 
contact the Accessibility Group at Apple and apprise them of what happened.

Thanks for bearing with me.

Mike

> On 11 Apr 2017, at 15:44, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Did you see my reply with the explanation of how to reinitialise the PRAM? My 
> MacBook Air also has an SSD and the procedure works just fine and gives me 
> audio feedback.
> Was Sierra installed on your new MacBook when you got it or did you update it 
> yourself? I did a clean install of Sierra on my machine and so far, no 
> problems. However, on my French list, lots of people are having problems with 
> Sierra after simply updating rather than going to the trouble of a clean 
> install.
> I don’t know why some people have problems when others don’t, but it happens 
> a lot.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:49, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t 
>> have asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.
>> 
>> That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM 
>> was reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
>> reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was able 
>> to use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the States 
>> who was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the Utilities 
>> and was given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and re-installing 
>> the operating system, etc.
>> 
>> Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, 
>> i.e. 100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.
>> 
>> I’ll research this some more and get back to you.
>> 
>> Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, but 
>> that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be somewhat 
>> different.
>> 
>> Kindest regards,
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your kind words.
>>> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
>>> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
>>> not having your problem.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello Anne,
 
 Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
 first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
 solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
 fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
 
 My best as always, Anne,
 
 Mike 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
> English and French.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for 
>> over eight years and love it.
>> 
>> Here’s the problem:
>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and 
>> US keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
>> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
>> it should be.
>> 
>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south. 
>>  I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in 
>> German, I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever 
>> typing, I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  
>> Where can I find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing 
>> in German, my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is 
>> there a way to have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the 
>> appropriate language when I select a typing input language?
>> 
>> Thanks so much!
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hello Anne,

Sierra was already installed on this machine.  It was done at the store before 
I purchased it.  That having been said, I’m not sure if they did a clean 
install or overwrote an earlier version of the OS.

I will reread your earlier note, but since I don’t hear the initial four-tone 
harmony beep, I’m a little nervous about trying this again.

Mike

> On 11 Apr 2017, at 15:44, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Did you see my reply with the explanation of how to reinitialise the PRAM? My 
> MacBook Air also has an SSD and the procedure works just fine and gives me 
> audio feedback.
> Was Sierra installed on your new MacBook when you got it or did you update it 
> yourself? I did a clean install of Sierra on my machine and so far, no 
> problems. However, on my French list, lots of people are having problems with 
> Sierra after simply updating rather than going to the trouble of a clean 
> install.
> I don’t know why some people have problems when others don’t, but it happens 
> a lot.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:49, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t 
>> have asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.
>> 
>> That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM 
>> was reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
>> reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was able 
>> to use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the States 
>> who was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the Utilities 
>> and was given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and re-installing 
>> the operating system, etc.
>> 
>> Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, 
>> i.e. 100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.
>> 
>> I’ll research this some more and get back to you.
>> 
>> Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, but 
>> that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be somewhat 
>> different.
>> 
>> Kindest regards,
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your kind words.
>>> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
>>> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
>>> not having your problem.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello Anne,
 
 Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
 first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
 solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
 fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
 
 My best as always, Anne,
 
 Mike 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
> English and French.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for 
>> over eight years and love it.
>> 
>> Here’s the problem:
>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and 
>> US keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
>> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
>> it should be.
>> 
>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south. 
>>  I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in 
>> German, I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever 
>> typing, I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  
>> Where can I find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing 
>> in German, my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is 
>> there a way to have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the 
>> appropriate language when I select a typing input language?
>> 
>> Thanks so much!
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or 
>> if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
>> owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>> 
>> 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

With this new Mac, Anne, I have never heard the start-up chimes.  The first 
thing I hear is VoiceOver prompting me to login.  After successfully logging 
in, it very loudly beeps three times, then there is a five second or so pause, 
and then I’m good to go.  On my old 2009 MacBook, I’d hear that four-tone 
sequence after turning it on and before it started to boot up.

One of the interesting things I’ve needed to get used to is the total silence 
of this new machine.  As I gain familiarity with it and get used to a slightly 
different way of doing things, I think I’m going to like it a lot.  For one 
thing, the battery life is very impressive, and I often find myself in 
situations where I am away from outlets for extended periods of time.

Best,

Mike
 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:48, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> To reinitialise the PRAM, first shut down your computer, then hold down the 
> following four keys: Command, Option, letter p and letter r. With these four 
> held down, press the Power key as normal. Keep the four keys held down until 
> you’ve heard the start up chime four times, then release them and your 
> computer will boot normally.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:13, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Anne,
>> 
>> I purchased this Mac about two months ago, and I am running Sierra.
>> 
>> I am rather nervous about reinitializing the PRAM on such a new unit.  
>> However, if I decide to do so, how is this accomplished?
>> 
>> Best as always,
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your kind words.
>>> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
>>> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
>>> not having your problem.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello Anne,
 
 Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
 first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
 solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
 fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
 
 My best as always, Anne,
 
 Mike 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
> English and French.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for 
>> over eight years and love it.
>> 
>> Here’s the problem:
>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and 
>> US keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
>> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
>> it should be.
>> 
>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south. 
>>  I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in 
>> German, I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever 
>> typing, I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  
>> Where can I find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing 
>> in German, my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is 
>> there a way to have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the 
>> appropriate language when I select a typing input language?
>> 
>> Thanks so much!
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or 
>> if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
>> owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>> 
>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark 
>> at:  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara 
>> Quinn - you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>> 
>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
>> --- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>> Groups "MacVisionaries" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>> an email to macvisionaries+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email 

Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

well,
I am a licensed ham and part of what I want to do would involve joining a local 
mesh network. The issue I would have would be keeping the non-hams out of it.

Otherwise, doing it as a private individual or as an enterprise sounds like a 
good alternative. still, it is amazing what you can do on less than a  watt. :)

-eric

On Apr 11, 2017, at 6:15 AM, Scott Granados wrote:

> I think and could be wrong here but I think part 97 only applies if you’re 
> operating as a ham.  I don’t think it applies to personal WiFi use but it 
> sounds like you’re mixing the two so it’s wise to be careful.
> 
> I ran point to point in Florida on the 5 GHz band encrypted over a 50 mile 
> range with no complaints.  That could be luck however but I was running as a 
> commercial enterprise, not as an individual or a ham.
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 1:45 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
>> 
>> I already acquired that kit. Also, as a ham, I have some modifications and 
>> equipment here that will boost the output to 1 watt. btw, thats 1 watt to 
>> the antenna (not effective radiated power). Once I put up that antenna, add 
>> the other stuff and park it over on channel 11, I will pretty much be able 
>> to walk up to the store 1/2 mile up and still use it (I also have a portable 
>> war driving kit capable of extended range operation, so no issues with 
>> getting back to my base).
>> 
>> THe only issue I am going to see with the new setup is that I can't run 
>> encrypted (violates part 97). so, I am going to have to figure out how to 
>> keep everyone else out (guess its up to mac address filtering at the 
>> firewall). so, with 1 watt and high gain antennas on each end, I could 
>> probably reach more than a mile or so.
>> 
>> -eric
>> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 2:41 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
>> 
>>> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood,
>>> Get an omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost 
>>> the power up to 75% max and start it up,
>>> 
>>> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm connected to 
>>> my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
>>> 
>>> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of my 
>>> list.
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
>>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
>>> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via 
>>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>>> 
>>> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t avoid your 
>>> networks around you’s interference nearly as effectively.
>>> 
>>> If everybody is broadcasting then there are scheduling systems that kick in 
>>> that avoid collisions. If every body isn’t then you’ll slam in to their 
>>> network traffic and it can degrade performance.
>>> 
>>> 
 On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:54 PM, E.T.  wrote:
 
 Interesting discussion. Much food for thought. I will study the VPN site 
 you suggested.
 
 One thing you mentioned to Jonathan was that you disabled SSID in your 
 router. How does that affect your Wifi network. Can your devices still see 
 the network? I certainly would not mind hiding from the neighbors.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the world,
 all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
 and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
 
 On 4/9/2017 1:35 PM, Eric Oyen wrote:
> not a problem. there are other reasons to use a VPN. However, 2
> things I do when using google:
> 1. I am not signed in
> 2. I always use a VPN when searching.
> 
> Also, of late, I have been having some trust issues with my current ISP.
> It seems that they sent me a notice of copyright infringement about a
> shared file. only problem, I was not sharing anything. So, I had to
> do a full blown security audit of my machines and network. I did,
> eventually, found where the issue was (the Lingsys router I have here
> had a security vulnerability that couldn't be easily closed. As a
> result, one of my neighbors was using it to share files. so, even
> though I had the thing password protected, it was still using a
> number of items that made breaking the password trivially easy with
> the right software. I finally managed to get a handle on the
> situation by turning off the PIN the device had, turning off SSID
> broadcast and engaging MAC filtering. I still can't completely trust
> the device, so I use a VPN pretty much all the time now.
> 
> I am looking to upgrade the hardware though. A kit from Routerboard
> that I can install an image of OpenBSD on would make things a lot
> better here. THere are optional add-ons like WiFi B/G/A/N, a bridged
> 

Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

yep,
I will have to take a closer look at some of the settings then. the current 
router is capable of 5 Ghz operation, however, getting an external antenna 
setup for that band is problematic at best (any length of coax is going to be 
very lossy and also extremely expensive. At this point, such a setup would be a 
bit more doable if I just build up a custom unit, use Power over Ethernet and 
mount the device in an all weather enclosure at the mast mount point. THis 
would have the benefit of eliminating feed line losses and reducing cost. In 
fact, I could have dual band operation in both 2.45 Ghz and 5 Ghz using 
separate antennas for each band.

one other possibility is to just have the transceiver units at the antenna 
point with both up and down conversion and run power and signals through coax 
to a unit inside the house that handles the heavy lifting. It seems more 
complicated, but in actuality has the side benefit of being able to access the 
device physically for any other work. In a lot of ways, it would actually be 
less expensive simply because you aren't trying to put the entire unit up in 
the air where heat and cold can adversely affect operation. This is basically 
how satellite does it.

-eric

On Apr 11, 2017, at 6:12 AM, Scott Granados wrote:

> OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
> terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
> side of the keyboard.:)
> 
> PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your 
> only option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re 
> still using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
>   I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
> WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
> someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because 
> it’s far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 
> 0 to 9 instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so 
> forth you can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken 
> networks in under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly 
> you guess the pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m 
> effectively locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.
> 
> WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
> ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.
> 
> WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective 
> and uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the 
> connection.  This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack 
> and uses the most bits in key and group generation.
> 
> 
> Next, let’s talk channels.
> 
> (Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
> self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)
> 
> There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
> country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of 
> the 5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and 
> yes there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this 
> for now to not over complicate.
>   On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
> there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap 
> so you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
> separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 3 
> do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions between 
> the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 and 11.  
> This means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 and 11.  
> If we look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under normal 
> operation.  Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which is 
> usually the default this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal is 
> received adjacent to your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be mindful 
> of what you’re overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most congested.  
> You’re contending with everything from garage door openers to microwave ovens 
> with bad seals.  Cordless phones live up here and all sorts of baby monitors 
> and things.
> 
> The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
> routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, 
> you have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper band 
> at channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which includes 
> 132 and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other RADAR so you 
> may select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up you’ll select a new 
> one.  Not all gear 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Mike,

Did you see my reply with the explanation of how to reinitialise the PRAM? My 
MacBook Air also has an SSD and the procedure works just fine and gives me 
audio feedback.
Was Sierra installed on your new MacBook when you got it or did you update it 
yourself? I did a clean install of Sierra on my machine and so far, no 
problems. However, on my French list, lots of people are having problems with 
Sierra after simply updating rather than going to the trouble of a clean 
install.
I don’t know why some people have problems when others don’t, but it happens a 
lot.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:49, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello Anne,
> 
> Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t have 
> asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.
> 
> That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM was 
> reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
> reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was able 
> to use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the States 
> who was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the Utilities 
> and was given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and re-installing 
> the operating system, etc.
> 
> Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, i.e. 
> 100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.
> 
> I’ll research this some more and get back to you.
> 
> Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, but 
> that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be somewhat 
> different.
> 
> Kindest regards,
> 
> Mike
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Thank you for your kind words.
>> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
>> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
>> not having your problem.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Anne,
>>> 
>>> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
>>> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
>>> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
>>> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
>>> 
>>> My best as always, Anne,
>>> 
>>> Mike 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
 
 Hello Mike,
 
 Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
 dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
 English and French.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Anne
 
 
 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
> eight years and love it.
> 
> Here’s the problem:
> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
> it should be.
> 
> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  
> I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, 
> I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, 
> I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can 
> I find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, 
> my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way 
> to have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language 
> when I select a typing input language?
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Mike 
> 
> -- 
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
> Visionaries list.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or 
> if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
> owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
> 
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark 
> at:  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara 
> Quinn - you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
> 
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MacVisionaries" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to 

Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting for a command

[Andy]

Hi again Anne.

You've obviously slept on it, a skill I really should develop further.

I'm brand new to mac but it did seem to me that I was simply not given enough 
time to respond.

Tim has come up with an alternative solution and that is to purchase an 
external Trackpad, to 
avoide accidentally touching the  on-board Track pad screen, which could be a 
cause of my problems also.

I attend  an organization in Glasgow called Site Glasgow :
http://www.sitescotland.org/

Which is a voluntary organisation that teaches apple products to blind people 
and the instructors are themselves all blind!  Cool or what?

I'm hoping to visit Glasgow on Monday, so I will take both you and Tim's 
comments up with me, along with my macbook, and see if my instructor can help 
work all of this out for me.


I think it's important to set up my devices before actually starting my 
training, especially so, when authors are recommending this.

To follow a particular instruction book, you really need to listen to her and 
make the changes that she suggests, if only to keep up with her through the 
book.



That's my thoughts and it was the same with the Windows platform.

I'll get there eventually Anne, fingers crossed!

Thanks for your advice.

Very best wishes.

Andy.
>From Scotland with Love.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Anne Robertson 
  To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 12:55 PM
  Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting 
for a command


  Hello Andy,


  Having thought further about your problem, I’m wondering whether your screen 
or even your computer is going to sleep too quickly.
  To fix this, open System Preferences and press VO-Space Bar on Energy Saver. 
On this screen, there are two tabs: Battery and Power Adapter. You can set the 
time separately for each.
  There are two sliders for each of these tabs: Computer Sleep, and Display 
Sleep. The slider is to the right of the label in each case, and you should set 
them to at least 15 minutes to give yourself time to find your way around the 
computer.
  To adjust a slider, interact with it (VO-Shift-Down Arrow) and do VO-Right 
Arrow to increase it, or VO-Left Arrow to reduce it. Then stop interacting.
  I don’t know whether you are aware of this, but you can choose whether to use 
the Control and Option keys or the Caps Lock key as your VO keys. I’ve been 
using a Mac with VO for a dozen years now, so I haven’t bothered to change my 
habits, but for new users, I think the Caps Lock is a better choice. You make 
this choice in the VoiceOver Utility (VO-F8). Having opened the VO-Utility, 
navigate right to Keys to use as the VoiceOver modifier: and make your choice.


  Cheers,


  Anne






On 11 Apr 2017, at 11:15, Andy  wrote:


Hi again Tim.

I think you are right my friend as the table that I have my macbook on is 
quite high, so perhaps I am brushing the on-board trackpad.

I had thought however, that I had to activate the trackpad before any 
finger command work was possible.

This is not a great problem and your solution of perhaps fitting a second 
usb trackpad - £114.00 at the Apple store, would be the way to go and my case 
could easily accomodate such a small device.

Doing this would give me a little more control and confidence, especially 
at this very early stage of my learning.

Thanks very much for your advice and support.

Very best wishes.

Andy.
From Scotland with Love.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Kilburn
  To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 PM
  Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when 
waiting for a command


  Hi Andy,


  I believe that Anne was suggesting that you maybe are just accidentally 
brushing your hand or thumb on the TrackPad itself.  Not that you're 
necessarily doing anything with the TrackPad commander.  The TrackPad can often 
be quite sensitive and, thus, react to inadvertent touching by moving the mouse 
pointer due to that touch or brush.  If you have a USB mouse, there's an option 
whereby you can turn off the Trackpad when this is connected.  The setting is 
in System Preferences, Accessibilityy.  Select the Mouse & TrackPad from the 
Accessibility features table then check the box that tells the MacBook to 
ignore the TrackPad when an external mouse or TrackPad is present.


  HTH.


  Later...


  Tim Kilburn
  Fort McMurray, AB Canada 


  On Apr 10, 2017, at 14:56, Andy  wrote:


  Hi Ann.

  Thanks for your support.



  Although it may be possible that I am activating Trackpad Commander 
commands without being aware of it, I doubt that this is my problem, as I 
believe I would need first, to turn my Tracpad Commander on.

  My problem just seemes to be like I simply timed out as it was taking 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

Eric, well said, I was going to say the same thing.  We supported 60K users 
with just the Mac internal VPN options and they work just fine.

No extra client required.  Third party stuff in my experience also works well.  
Open VPN is a breeze on the Mac.  The only negative thing I can say is VPNs re 
broken in IOS 10.3.1 but fixes are in the works to correct this from Apple.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 9:27 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> actually,
> there is no compatibility issue with VPN on a mac (unless you are using a 
> third party app to do the VPN). Best buy (or Worst buy if you prefer) is 
> nothing more than a blue box retailer. Most of their sales people haven't a 
> clue about what they are selling. Also, their geek squad operation leaves 
> loads to be desired (innumerable are the times I have had to work on machines 
> they so badly screwed up). Just about every mac I have worked on has had VPN 
> on it via the manual method in system preferences. It works, works reliably 
> and doesn't give any problems. Depending on your service provider, you might 
> have to make a few minor adjustments to the cable/DSL modem in order to make 
> VPN work reliably. Other than that, it just works.
> 
> -eric
> 
> 
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 11:37 PM, David Diamond wrote:
> 
>> The thing is, it did work for the longest time.  Now, it prevents me from 
>> getting on the internet.  Or, it could be the updates through the mac.  Who 
>> knows.  All I know is apparently, VPNs has compatibility issues with the 
>> mac.  Or, so I have been told by Best buy and the apple support help line. 
>> However, PIA works fine with my IPhone 6S plus.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of E.T.
>> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 7:56 PM
>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>> 
>>   Ok, good. Another David said that PIA did not give him internet access on 
>> his Mac so question is, are there specific settings I need to deal with? I 
>> am leaning at VPN Unlimited and will read up on that before I make the 
>> decision.
>> 
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>  "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>>  mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>>  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>>  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>> 
>> On 4/10/2017 7:02 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
>>> Correct, the app puts the appropriate information into the VPN system. The 
>>> info can always be entered manually. Paying grants access to the particular 
>>> VPN service networks.
>>> 
>>> Kind regards,
>>> 
>>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>>> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On 11/04/2017, at 08:21, E.T.  wrote:
 
 David,
 Thanks. If manually set up on all platforms (Windows, iOS, macOS), 
 software is not needed, right? Just set up manually.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the
 world, all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your
 mind off  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
 
> On 4/10/2017 1:55 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
> I use BetterNet and VPN Unlimited. BetterNet has better accessibility 
> with iOS VoiceOver.
> 
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On 11/04/2017, at 04:33, E.T.  wrote:
>> 
>> Eric is the only one who provided a reasonable answer. I still would 
>> like to see what others use for VPN services.
>> 
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the
>> world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn your
>> mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On 4/10/2017 9:23 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
>>> Actually didn’t morph as much as you think.  Simon is wanting to have a 
>>> private connection back to his work.  In fact, his solution is a good 
>>> one geography willing.  I used the same thing in Florida an antenna on 
>>> a tower back to the office.  Since WiFi has a strong cryptographic 
>>> feature set it’s not that different at all.
>>> 
 On Apr 10, 2017, at 10:36 AM, E.T.  wrote:
 
 Interesting how this VPN thread morphed into something totally 
 unrelated and totally unhelpful.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the
 world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn
 your mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: 

Re: VPN questions

[Eric Oyen]

actually,
there is no compatibility issue with VPN on a mac (unless you are using a third 
party app to do the VPN). Best buy (or Worst buy if you prefer) is nothing more 
than a blue box retailer. Most of their sales people haven't a clue about what 
they are selling. Also, their geek squad operation leaves loads to be desired 
(innumerable are the times I have had to work on machines they so badly screwed 
up). Just about every mac I have worked on has had VPN on it via the manual 
method in system preferences. It works, works reliably and doesn't give any 
problems. Depending on your service provider, you might have to make a few 
minor adjustments to the cable/DSL modem in order to make VPN work reliably. 
Other than that, it just works.

-eric


On Apr 10, 2017, at 11:37 PM, David Diamond wrote:

> The thing is, it did work for the longest time.  Now, it prevents me from 
> getting on the internet.  Or, it could be the updates through the mac.  Who 
> knows.  All I know is apparently, VPNs has compatibility issues with the mac. 
>  Or, so I have been told by Best buy and the apple support help line. 
> However, PIA works fine with my IPhone 6S plus.   
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of E.T.
> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 7:56 PM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
>Ok, good. Another David said that PIA did not give him internet access on 
> his Mac so question is, are there specific settings I need to deal with? I am 
> leaning at VPN Unlimited and will read up on that before I make the decision.
> 
> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>   "God for you is where you sweep away all the
>   mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
>   our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>   and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
> 
> On 4/10/2017 7:02 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
>> Correct, the app puts the appropriate information into the VPN system. The 
>> info can always be entered manually. Paying grants access to the particular 
>> VPN service networks.
>> 
>> Kind regards,
>> 
>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On 11/04/2017, at 08:21, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>> David,
>>>  Thanks. If manually set up on all platforms (Windows, iOS, macOS), 
>>> software is not needed, right? Just set up manually.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the 
>>> world, all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your 
>>> mind off  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
 On 4/10/2017 1:55 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
 I use BetterNet and VPN Unlimited. BetterNet has better accessibility with 
 iOS VoiceOver.
 
 David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
 Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
 Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On 11/04/2017, at 04:33, E.T.  wrote:
> 
> Eric is the only one who provided a reasonable answer. I still would like 
> to see what others use for VPN services.
> 
> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
> "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the 
> world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn your 
> mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
> 
>> On 4/10/2017 9:23 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
>> Actually didn’t morph as much as you think.  Simon is wanting to have a 
>> private connection back to his work.  In fact, his solution is a good 
>> one geography willing.  I used the same thing in Florida an antenna on a 
>> tower back to the office.  Since WiFi has a strong cryptographic feature 
>> set it’s not that different at all.
>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 10:36 AM, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Interesting how this VPN thread morphed into something totally 
>>> unrelated and totally unhelpful.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the 
>>> world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn 
>>> your mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
 On 4/10/2017 3:09 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
 Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet 
 been able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to 
 try and reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight 
 line,
 
 And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a 
 post in without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
 
 I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my 
 place and 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

That’s the beautiful thing about here, one of them anyway, you can tell your 
neighbors to go pound sand, they can’t dictate what antennas you use, 
especially if you own your property.  There are provisions for renters but 
property ownership gives you the most leverage.

And no terrorism here, just a back yard tinkerer from a long line of tinkerers. 
 Good things come from garages.


> On Apr 11, 2017, at 2:18 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
> 
> You a Terrorist or something?
> 
> An ET trying to phone home?
> 
> It's just radio frequency related laws I have to worry about and the 
> neighbours concerned about the pole in the ground or off the top of the house,
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
> Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 4:23 AM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
> Put the antenna on your roof on a mast like a television antenna mast.
> 
> I don’t know about there but here in the states laws protect your right to do 
> this.  If you’re a ham radio operator you have even greater protections.  I 
> had a condo / home owners association mess with me once about putting a TV 
> antenna on my place.  I responded by installing a 200 foot crank up tower 
> with a 4 band YAGI on top.  Yes, I included arial lighting.;). They tried to 
> bring me to court and it was thrown out.  At which point I also added a 5 
> meter Dish in the back yard that I was experimenting with trying to build my 
> own home radio telescope.  My house looked like an uplink facility by the 
> time I was done and all I wanted to do was add a bowtie antenna to get HD 
> over the air.;)
> 
> To answer your question, yes, this is your problem.  You can’t have anything 
> in-between both sides of the connection.  Trees, buildings, mountains, etc 
> all will disrupt the signal.  You have to get the signal over the top of 
> what’s in the way.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet been
>> able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to try and
>> reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight line,
>> 
>> And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a post in
>> without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
>> 
>> I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my place
>> and the office might be the signal issue,
>> 
>> Problem is I've been told I'm not allowed to knock them over so that
>> leaves putting the antenna on the neighbours end of the property by
>> the street,
>> 
>> 
>> Guess I'll keep trying,
>> 
>> They told me this gear would do what I wanted and other uses had got
>> 24 Km distance from the radio and directional antenna  over rural
>> property. b
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 10:00 PM
>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>> 
>> Simon, I’ve gotten 50 miles point to point with Ubiquiti gear.;)
>> 
>> Here’s another pointer though, I found a place to get 25 watt 2.4 and 5 GHZ 
>> bidirectional amplifiers / preamps.  I’m thinking 100 foot mast, omni 
>> directional antenna fed by a LComm 25 watt Amplifier with a WiFi radio set 
>> with 20/40 hz coexistence mode disabled so you blanket the frequencies 
>> nicely.
>> 
>> With Ubiquiti gear though unmodified on towers I was able to get
>> signals and a decent lock from Port Saint Lucie Florida down to Palm
>> City.  Regular 802.11N
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
>>> 
>>> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood, Get an
>>> omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost the
>>> power up to 75% max and start it up,
>>> 
>>> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm
>>> connected to my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
>>> 
>>> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of my 
>>> list.
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
>>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
>>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
>>> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via
>>> 
>>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>>> 
>>> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t avoid your 
>>> networks around you’s interference nearly as effectively.
>>> 
>>> If everybody is broadcasting then there are scheduling systems that kick in 
>>> that avoid collisions. If every body isn’t then you’ll slam in to their 
>>> network traffic and it can degrade performance.
>>> 
>>> 
 On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:54 PM, E.T.  wrote:
 
 Interesting 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

I think and could be wrong here but I think part 97 only applies if you’re 
operating as a ham.  I don’t think it applies to personal WiFi use but it 
sounds like you’re mixing the two so it’s wise to be careful.

I ran point to point in Florida on the 5 GHz band encrypted over a 50 mile 
range with no complaints.  That could be luck however but I was running as a 
commercial enterprise, not as an individual or a ham.

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 1:45 AM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> I already acquired that kit. Also, as a ham, I have some modifications and 
> equipment here that will boost the output to 1 watt. btw, thats 1 watt to the 
> antenna (not effective radiated power). Once I put up that antenna, add the 
> other stuff and park it over on channel 11, I will pretty much be able to 
> walk up to the store 1/2 mile up and still use it (I also have a portable war 
> driving kit capable of extended range operation, so no issues with getting 
> back to my base).
> 
> THe only issue I am going to see with the new setup is that I can't run 
> encrypted (violates part 97). so, I am going to have to figure out how to 
> keep everyone else out (guess its up to mac address filtering at the 
> firewall). so, with 1 watt and high gain antennas on each end, I could 
> probably reach more than a mile or so.
> 
> -eric
> 
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 2:41 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
> 
>> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood,
>> Get an omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost the 
>> power up to 75% max and start it up,
>> 
>> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm connected to 
>> my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
>> 
>> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of my 
>> list.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
>> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via 
>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>> 
>> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t avoid your 
>> networks around you’s interference nearly as effectively.
>> 
>> If everybody is broadcasting then there are scheduling systems that kick in 
>> that avoid collisions. If every body isn’t then you’ll slam in to their 
>> network traffic and it can degrade performance.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:54 PM, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Interesting discussion. Much food for thought. I will study the VPN site 
>>> you suggested.
>>> 
>>> One thing you mentioned to Jonathan was that you disabled SSID in your 
>>> router. How does that affect your Wifi network. Can your devices still see 
>>> the network? I certainly would not mind hiding from the neighbors.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the world,
>>> all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
>>> and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
>>> On 4/9/2017 1:35 PM, Eric Oyen wrote:
 not a problem. there are other reasons to use a VPN. However, 2
 things I do when using google:
 1. I am not signed in
 2. I always use a VPN when searching.
 
 Also, of late, I have been having some trust issues with my current ISP.
 It seems that they sent me a notice of copyright infringement about a
 shared file. only problem, I was not sharing anything. So, I had to
 do a full blown security audit of my machines and network. I did,
 eventually, found where the issue was (the Lingsys router I have here
 had a security vulnerability that couldn't be easily closed. As a
 result, one of my neighbors was using it to share files. so, even
 though I had the thing password protected, it was still using a
 number of items that made breaking the password trivially easy with
 the right software. I finally managed to get a handle on the
 situation by turning off the PIN the device had, turning off SSID
 broadcast and engaging MAC filtering. I still can't completely trust
 the device, so I use a VPN pretty much all the time now.
 
 I am looking to upgrade the hardware though. A kit from Routerboard
 that I can install an image of OpenBSD on would make things a lot
 better here. THere are optional add-ons like WiFi B/G/A/N, a bridged
 set of LAN ports, an all weather housing, etc. Once that is done and
 installed, I can install the VPN package for OpenBSD on there, set it
 up to handle that and not worry too much. Then, if I want to be ultra
 secure, I would continue to use a VPN tunnel from my machine, thus 
 doubling the protection.
 
 Now, as to why I would want to use a VPN for other than just security?
 It's simple. there are some programs hosted on the web that might be
 

Re: VPN questions

[Scott Granados]

OK a few things that are incorrect here but it might just be a difference in 
terminology. So Incorrect may be a bit strong.  It’s probably the guy on this 
side of the keyboard.:)

PSK or pre shared key s plenty secure assuming you have a good key.  Your only 
option is to use a radius server and do WPA2 enterprise but then you’re still 
using passwords so same limitation has to be a good password.
I’m absolutely certain your neighbor broke in to your network using 
WiFi protected setup or WPS which is a different animal as you know.  Why 
someone would use a numeric pin over a long pass phrase baffles me because it’s 
far easier to guess.  If you know the valid characters are in the range 0 to 9 
instead of containing the whole alphabet, all the punctuation and so forth you 
can see how much this improves your odds of cracking.  I’ve broken networks in 
under 30 seconds using this method assuming of course how quickly you guess the 
pin.  Turn that feature off and use the AES encryption and I’m effectively 
locked out assuming I can’t guess your pass phrase.

WPA verses WPA2.  Here’s the difference, WPA uses TKIP cryptography.  This is 
ok but has been found not to be as robust as it should.

WPA2 uses AES encryption.  AES is a European standard that’s very effective and 
uses all sorts of cool grouping and modulus tricks to Harden the connection.  
This is the way to go. It performs best, is the hardest to crack and uses the 
most bits in key and group generation.


Next, let’s talk channels.

(Eric, I’m being deliberately over detailed so folks not as skilled as your 
self can follow along, if I’m telling you stuff you know please be patient)

There are three primary bands used for WiFi, they vary a little country to 
country but not significantly.  The bands are 2.4 ghz, and two segments of the 
5.0 ghz band.  There’s some 5.8 ghz out there but this is quite new and yes 
there’s stuff up over 20 ghz but we’ll leave AD networking out of this for now 
to not over complicate.
On the 2.4 ghz band in most countries there are 11 channels, in some 
there are 13 but let’s go with 11 for this discussion.  The channels overlap so 
you have to be very careful what to pick.  Channels need at least 5 for 
separation so for example.  Channels 1 and 6 do not overlap, channels 1 and 3 
do.  So if you have a radio on 1 and one on 3 you’ll have collisions between 
the spectrum.  The channels usually used for this reason are 1, 6 and 11.  This 
means if you’re on channel 9 you’re colliding with channels 6 and 11.  If we 
look at the signal we see that the bandwidth is 40 mhz under normal operation.  
Now if we have 20/40 mhz coexistence mode enabled which is usually the default 
this number will shrink to 20 MHz if another signal is received adjacent to 
your channel.  So, pick an empty channel but be mindful of what you’re 
overlapping with.  Also, this band is the most congested.  You’re contending 
with everything from garage door openers to microwave ovens with bad seals.  
Cordless phones live up here and all sorts of baby monitors and things.

The 5 GHz band is your best option if you have it available.  Most modern 
routers do as do most interface cards.  This band is broken in to sections, you 
have the lower band at channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 and then the upper band at 
channels 149, 153, 157 and 161.  You also have the DFS band which includes 132 
and several others.  DFS is also used by military and other RADAR so you may 
select a DFS channel but if interference is picked up you’ll select a new one.  
Not all gear supports DFS and likely different countries handle this 
differently.  Also, the first 20 MHz of the 5 ghz unlicensed frequency is 
dedicated to US cellular operators for LTE unlicensed, other countries will 
vary.
On 5 GHZ you have 80 MHz of bandwidth so your effective throughput is 
faster.  Also, with the way the channels are deployed you have more spectrum so 
you’re not dealing with the overlapping problem.  You can be on channel 149 and 
have a radio on 153 and you’ll be ok in this instance.

So bottom lining it, if you can, use 5 GHz.  It carries differently than 2.4 
and interacts more with things like walls and bricks but if you’re in a good 
setting the lack of congestion and more spectrum work in your favor.

So in my example, the optimal setup is as follows.

Set WPA2 for security, reduce the key interval from 3600 to 900 seconds, have a 
nice healthy long key, disable WPS, use the same SSID on 2.4 and 5 GHZ so you 
can take advantage of band steering and pick your low band channels wisely.

The automatic selection on routers is better on some than others.  Some 
reselect through out the day, others pick once and stick with a channel and 
still others just randomly select.  On the low band most routers default to 
channel 6 so avoid 6 if possible or use it in Eric’s case where you’ve audited 
the spectrum and know it’s available manually.



> On Apr 11, 2017, 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hello Anne,

Please disregard my question about reinitializing the PRAM.  I shouldn’t have 
asked.  I just googled it, and the answer came right up.

That having been said,I still had problems, and I am not sure if the PRAM was 
reinitialized.  This MacBook has an SSD, and when I was trying to 
reinitialized, I got no audio feedback whatsoever.  Fortunately, I was able to 
use FaceTime on my iPhone, and I talked to a sighted friend in the States who 
was able to read the screen.  I had been plunked down in the Utilities and was 
given the option of wiping the entire memory clean and re-installing the 
operating system, etc.

Fortunately, Command-Q, followed by Enter got me back to where I am now, i.e. 
100% Accessible but alas, no German dictionary.

I’ll research this some more and get back to you.

Again, thanks so much.  I have a feeling that reinitializing is the key, but 
that the approach to reinitializing a MacBook with SSD might be somewhat 
different.

Kindest regards,

Mike

> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Thank you for your kind words.
> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
> not having your problem.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
>> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
>> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
>> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
>> 
>> My best as always, Anne,
>> 
>> Mike 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
>>> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
>>> English and French.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello everyone,
 
 I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
 eight years and love it.
 
 Here’s the problem:
 I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
 keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
 things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
 it should be.
 
 When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  
 I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, 
 I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I 
 get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I 
 find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my 
 MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to 
 have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when 
 I select a typing input language?
 
 Thanks so much!
 
 Mike 
 
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>>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at: 
>>>  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - 
>>> you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>>> 
>>> The archives for 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Mike,

To reinitialise the PRAM, first shut down your computer, then hold down the 
following four keys: Command, Option, letter p and letter r. With these four 
held down, press the Power key as normal. Keep the four keys held down until 
you’ve heard the start up chime four times, then release them and your computer 
will boot normally.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:13, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hi Anne,
> 
> I purchased this Mac about two months ago, and I am running Sierra.
> 
> I am rather nervous about reinitializing the PRAM on such a new unit.  
> However, if I decide to do so, how is this accomplished?
> 
> Best as always,
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Thank you for your kind words.
>> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
>> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
>> not having your problem.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Anne,
>>> 
>>> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
>>> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
>>> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
>>> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
>>> 
>>> My best as always, Anne,
>>> 
>>> Mike 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
 
 Hello Mike,
 
 Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
 dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
 English and French.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Anne
 
 
 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
> eight years and love it.
> 
> Here’s the problem:
> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
> things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
> it should be.
> 
> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  
> I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, 
> I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, 
> I get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can 
> I find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, 
> my MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way 
> to have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language 
> when I select a typing input language?
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Mike 
> 
> -- 
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
> Visionaries list.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or 
> if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
> owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
> 
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark 
> at:  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara 
> Quinn - you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
> 
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
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 --- 
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Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hi Anne,

I purchased this Mac about two months ago, and I am running Sierra.

I am rather nervous about reinitializing the PRAM on such a new unit.  However, 
if I decide to do so, how is this accomplished?

Best as always,

Mike

 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:07, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Thank you for your kind words.
> Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. 
> Also, which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m 
> not having your problem.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Anne,
>> 
>> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
>> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
>> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
>> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
>> 
>> My best as always, Anne,
>> 
>> Mike 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Mike,
>>> 
>>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
>>> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
>>> English and French.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
 
 Hello everyone,
 
 I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
 eight years and love it.
 
 Here’s the problem:
 I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
 keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, 
 things work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way 
 it should be.
 
 When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  
 I can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, 
 I switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I 
 get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I 
 find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my 
 MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to 
 have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when 
 I select a typing input language?
 
 Thanks so much!
 
 Mike 
 
 -- 
 The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
 Visionaries list.
 
 If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or 
 if you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the 
 owners or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
 
 Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark 
 at:  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara 
 Quinn - you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
 
 The archives for this list can be searched at:
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 --- 
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 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>>> Visionaries list.
>>> 
>>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners 
>>> or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>>> 
>>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at: 
>>>  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - 
>>> you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>>> 
>>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
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>>> "MacVisionaries" group.
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>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>> you feel that a 

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Mike,

Thank you for your kind words.
Have you reinitialised the PRAM lately? I find it often fixes anomalies. Also, 
which level of Mac OS are you on? I recently installed Sierra and I’m not 
having your problem.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 14:01, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello Anne,
> 
> Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the 
> first time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a 
> solution for me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of 
> fantastic advice.  Perhaps someone else might have a solution.
> 
> My best as always, Anne,
> 
> Mike 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Mike,
>> 
>> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
>> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
>> English and French.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
>>> eight years and love it.
>>> 
>>> Here’s the problem:
>>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
>>> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
>>> work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should 
>>> be.
>>> 
>>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I 
>>> can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I 
>>> switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I 
>>> get a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I 
>>> find the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my 
>>> MacBook Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to 
>>> have my MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when I 
>>> select a typing input language?
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much!
>>> 
>>> Mike 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>>> Visionaries list.
>>> 
>>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners 
>>> or moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>>> 
>>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at: 
>>>  macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - 
>>> you can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>>> 
>>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
>>> --- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "MacVisionaries" group.
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or 
>> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>> 
>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:  
>> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
>> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>> 
>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
>> --- 
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> 
> -- 
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac Visionaries 
> list.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or 
> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
> 
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:  
> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
> 
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/

Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hello Anne,

Unfortunately, it is not detecting those changes.  You know, this is the first 
time in all the years I’ve used the Mac where you didn’t have a solution for 
me.  You’re incredible, and I thank you for all the years of fantastic advice.  
Perhaps someone else might have a solution.

My best as always, Anne,

Mike 
> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:58, Anne Robertson  wrote:
> 
> Hello Mike,
> 
> Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
> dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
> English and French.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
>> eight years and love it.
>> 
>> Here’s the problem:
>> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
>> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
>> work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should 
>> be.
>> 
>> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I 
>> can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I 
>> switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I get 
>> a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I find 
>> the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my MacBook 
>> Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to have my 
>> MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when I select a 
>> typing input language?
>> 
>> Thanks so much!
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> -- 
>> The following information is important for all members of the Mac 
>> Visionaries list.
>> 
>> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
>> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or 
>> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
>> 
>> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:  
>> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
>> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
>> 
>> The archives for this list can be searched at:
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
>> --- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MacVisionaries" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to macvisionaries+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to macvisionaries@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/macvisionaries.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac Visionaries 
> list.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or 
> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
> 
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:  
> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
> 
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
> --- 
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can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com

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Re: Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Mike,

Your Mac should automatically detect the language and use the appropriate 
dictionary. I haven’t noticed any such problems switching between British 
English and French.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 13:38, Michael Busboom  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over 
> eight years and love it.
> 
> Here’s the problem:
> I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
> keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
> work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should 
> be.
> 
> When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I 
> can write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I 
> switch my output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I get 
> a Word misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I find 
> the proper dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my MacBook 
> Pro isn’t using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to have my 
> MacBook Pro automatically switch to the appropriate language when I select a 
> typing input language?
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Mike 
> 
> -- 
> The following information is important for all members of the Mac Visionaries 
> list.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns about the running of this list, or if 
> you feel that a member's post is inappropriate, please contact the owners or 
> moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.
> 
> Your Mac Visionaries list moderator is Mark Taylor.  You can reach mark at:  
> macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
> can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com
> 
> The archives for this list can be searched at:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/macvisionaries@googlegroups.com/
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MacVisionaries" group.
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> email to macvisionaries+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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moderators directly rather than posting on the list itself.

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macvisionaries+modera...@googlegroups.com and your owner is Cara Quinn - you 
can reach Cara at caraqu...@caraquinn.com

The archives for this list can be searched at:
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Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting for a command

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Andy,

Having thought further about your problem, I’m wondering whether your screen or 
even your computer is going to sleep too quickly.
To fix this, open System Preferences and press VO-Space Bar on Energy Saver. On 
this screen, there are two tabs: Battery and Power Adapter. You can set the 
time separately for each.
There are two sliders for each of these tabs: Computer Sleep, and Display 
Sleep. The slider is to the right of the label in each case, and you should set 
them to at least 15 minutes to give yourself time to find your way around the 
computer.
To adjust a slider, interact with it (VO-Shift-Down Arrow) and do VO-Right 
Arrow to increase it, or VO-Left Arrow to reduce it. Then stop interacting.
I don’t know whether you are aware of this, but you can choose whether to use 
the Control and Option keys or the Caps Lock key as your VO keys. I’ve been 
using a Mac with VO for a dozen years now, so I haven’t bothered to change my 
habits, but for new users, I think the Caps Lock is a better choice. You make 
this choice in the VoiceOver Utility (VO-F8). Having opened the VO-Utility, 
navigate right to Keys to use as the VoiceOver modifier: and make your choice.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 11:15, Andy  wrote:
> 
> Hi again Tim.
>  
> I think you are right my friend as the table that I have my macbook on is 
> quite high, so perhaps I am brushing the on-board trackpad.
>  
> I had thought however, that I had to activate the trackpad before any finger 
> command work was possible.
>  
> This is not a great problem and your solution of perhaps fitting a second usb 
> trackpad - £114.00 at the Apple store, would be the way to go and my case 
> could easily accomodate such a small device.
>  
> Doing this would give me a little more control and confidence, especially at 
> this very early stage of my learning.
>  
> Thanks very much for your advice and support.
>  
> Very best wishes.
>  
> Andy.
> From Scotland with Love.
>  
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: Tim Kilburn 
>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 PM
>> Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting 
>> for a command
>> 
>> Hi Andy,
>> 
>> I believe that Anne was suggesting that you maybe are just accidentally 
>> brushing your hand or thumb on the TrackPad itself.  Not that you're 
>> necessarily doing anything with the TrackPad commander.  The TrackPad can 
>> often be quite sensitive and, thus, react to inadvertent touching by moving 
>> the mouse pointer due to that touch or brush.  If you have a USB mouse, 
>> there's an option whereby you can turn off the Trackpad when this is 
>> connected.  The setting is in System Preferences, Accessibilityy.  Select 
>> the Mouse & TrackPad from the Accessibility features table then check the 
>> box that tells the MacBook to ignore the TrackPad when an external mouse or 
>> TrackPad is present.
>> 
>> HTH.
>> 
>> Later...
>> 
>> Tim Kilburn
>> Fort McMurray, AB Canada 
>> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 14:56, Andy > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Ann.
>>  
>> Thanks for your support.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Although it may be possible that I am activating Trackpad Commander commands 
>> without being aware of it, I doubt that this is my problem, as I believe I 
>> would need first, to turn my Tracpad Commander on.
>>  
>> My problem just seemes to be like I simply timed out as it was taking me too 
>> long to make the changes I wanted to make.
>>  
>>  
>> Here is the text that I'm trying to follow:
>>  
>> Configuring Your Mac to Work Well with VoiceOver
>> Changing some factory default settings will enable your computer to work 
>> better with VoiceOver. Plus, making these changes gives you some practice 
>> with frequently used VoiceOver commands. The first two adjustments involve 
>> the keyboard.
>> Keyboard Changes
>> By default, the function keys are set to control hardware (such as changing 
>> the volume and screen brightness) rather than to work with software. If you 
>> use this setting, you'll have to add the FN key to any function key (F1 
>> through F12) that is part of a VO command. Fortunately, you can reverse this 
>> behavior, so that you use only the FN key when you want to control the 
>> hardware. Here's how:
>> * From anywhere on the Mac, press VO-M to get to the menu bar. You will be 
>> in the Apple menu.
>> * Press VO-Down Arrow until you reach System Preferences, and press 
>> VO-Spacebar to open that item.
>> * Press Tab until you find Keyboard, and press VO-Spacebar to open its menu.
>> * Find the keyboard tab by using VO-Right Arrow, and press VO-Spacebar to 
>> select it.
>> * Press VO-Right Arrow until you get to a checkbox that says, “Use all F1, 
>> F2, etc. keys as standard function keys,” and press VO-Spacebar to check it.
>> The next 

Multilingual woes on MacBook from someone who should know better

[Michael Busboom]

Hello everyone,

I’m embarrassed to ask this question since I’ve been using a Mac for over eight 
years and love it.

Here’s the problem:
I daily communicate in both German and English.  I have the German and US 
keyboards installed on my new MacBook Pro.  When writing in English, things 
work great.  I’m notified whenever I misspell words, just the way it should be.

When I switch to the German keyboard, however, things start going south.  I can 
write German with no problem and obviously, when writing in German, I switch my 
output speech language to German.  However, whenever typing, I get a Word 
misspelled” notification after every word I type.  Where can I find the proper 
dictionary to download so that when writing in German, my MacBook Pro isn’t 
using a US dictionary?  Furthermore, is there a way to have my MacBook Pro 
automatically switch to the appropriate language when I select a typing input 
language?

Thanks so much!

Mike 

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Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting for a command

[Anne Robertson]

Hello Alex,

Unfortunately, having Mouse Keys turned on does interfere with normal use of 
the keyboard as it uses j k l u i o 7 8 and 9 to pilot the mouse cursor.

Cheers,

Anne



> On 11 Apr 2017, at 12:26, Alex Hall  wrote:
> 
> Here's another thought. I found an article that suggests enabling mouse keys, 
> then telling the trackpad to turn off when mouse keys is on. The instructions 
> are out of date, but I think I found modern equivalents.
> 
> 1. Open System Preferences, then go to Accessibility and open that.
> 2. On the table of options, down arrow to Mouse and Trackpad, then vo-right. 
> You'll find a checkbox to enable mouse keys, but move one more item right to 
> the Options button.
> 3. In the dialog that appears, check both "press the option key five times to 
> toggle Mouse Keys" and "ignore built-in trackpad when Mouse Keys is enabled". 
> Find and activate the OK button.
> 
> If the article is correct, you can now hit the option key five times, and the 
> trackpad will go off. You also have mouse keys if you want them, but this 
> shouldn't interfere with normal use.
> 
> 
> --
> Alex Hall
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 11, 2017, at 05:15, Andy > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi again Tim.
>>  
>> I think you are right my friend as the table that I have my macbook on is 
>> quite high, so perhaps I am brushing the on-board trackpad.
>>  
>> I had thought however, that I had to activate the trackpad before any finger 
>> command work was possible.
>>  
>> This is not a great problem and your solution of perhaps fitting a second 
>> usb trackpad - £114.00 at the Apple store, would be the way to go and my 
>> case could easily accomodate such a small device.
>>  
>> Doing this would give me a little more control and confidence, especially at 
>> this very early stage of my learning.
>>  
>> Thanks very much for your advice and support.
>>  
>> Very best wishes.
>>  
>> Andy.
>> From Scotland with Love.
>>  
>>> - Original Message - 
>>> From: Tim Kilburn 
>>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>>> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when 
>>> waiting for a command
>>> 
>>> Hi Andy,
>>> 
>>> I believe that Anne was suggesting that you maybe are just accidentally 
>>> brushing your hand or thumb on the TrackPad itself.  Not that you're 
>>> necessarily doing anything with the TrackPad commander.  The TrackPad can 
>>> often be quite sensitive and, thus, react to inadvertent touching by moving 
>>> the mouse pointer due to that touch or brush.  If you have a USB mouse, 
>>> there's an option whereby you can turn off the Trackpad when this is 
>>> connected.  The setting is in System Preferences, Accessibilityy.  Select 
>>> the Mouse & TrackPad from the Accessibility features table then check the 
>>> box that tells the MacBook to ignore the TrackPad when an external mouse or 
>>> TrackPad is present.
>>> 
>>> HTH.
>>> 
>>> Later...
>>> 
>>> Tim Kilburn
>>> Fort McMurray, AB Canada 
>>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 14:56, Andy >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Ann.
>>>  
>>> Thanks for your support.
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> Although it may be possible that I am activating Trackpad Commander 
>>> commands without being aware of it, I doubt that this is my problem, as I 
>>> believe I would need first, to turn my Tracpad Commander on.
>>>  
>>> My problem just seemes to be like I simply timed out as it was taking me 
>>> too long to make the changes I wanted to make.
>>>  
>>>  
>>> Here is the text that I'm trying to follow:
>>>  
>>> Configuring Your Mac to Work Well with VoiceOver
>>> Changing some factory default settings will enable your computer to work 
>>> better with VoiceOver. Plus, making these changes gives you some practice 
>>> with frequently used VoiceOver commands. The first two adjustments involve 
>>> the keyboard.
>>> Keyboard Changes
>>> By default, the function keys are set to control hardware (such as changing 
>>> the volume and screen brightness) rather than to work with software. If you 
>>> use this setting,you'll have to add the FN key to any function key (F1 
>>> through F12) that is part of a VO command. Fortunately, you can reverse 
>>> this behavior, so that you use only the FN key when you want to control the 
>>> hardware. Here's how:
>>> * From anywhere on the Mac, press VO-M to get to the menu bar. You will be 
>>> in the Apple menu.
>>> * Press VO-Down Arrow until you reach System Preferences, and press 
>>> VO-Spacebar to open that item.
>>> * Press Tab until you find Keyboard, and press VO-Spacebar to open its menu.
>>> * Find the keyboard tab by using VO-Right Arrow, and press VO-Spacebar to 
>>> select it.
>>> * Press VO-Right Arrow until you get to a checkbox that says, “Use all F1, 
>>> F2, 

Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting for a command

[Alex Hall]

Here's another thought. I found an article that suggests enabling mouse keys, 
then telling the trackpad to turn off when mouse keys is on. The instructions 
are out of date, but I think I found modern equivalents.

1. Open System Preferences, then go to Accessibility and open that.
2. On the table of options, down arrow to Mouse and Trackpad, then vo-right. 
You'll find a checkbox to enable mouse keys, but move one more item right to 
the Options button.
3. In the dialog that appears, check both "press the option key five times to 
toggle Mouse Keys" and "ignore built-in trackpad when Mouse Keys is enabled". 
Find and activate the OK button.

If the article is correct, you can now hit the option key five times, and the 
trackpad will go off. You also have mouse keys if you want them, but this 
shouldn't interfere with normal use.


--
Alex Hall




> On Apr 11, 2017, at 05:15, Andy  wrote:
> 
> Hi again Tim.
>  
> I think you are right my friend as the table that I have my macbook on is 
> quite high, so perhaps I am brushing the on-board trackpad.
>  
> I had thought however, that I had to activate the trackpad before any finger 
> command work was possible.
>  
> This is not a great problem and your solution of perhaps fitting a second usb 
> trackpad - £114.00 at the Apple store, would be the way to go and my case 
> could easily accomodate such a small device.
>  
> Doing this would give me a little more control and confidence, especially at 
> this very early stage of my learning.
>  
> Thanks very much for your advice and support.
>  
> Very best wishes.
>  
> Andy.
> From Scotland with Love.
>  
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: Tim Kilburn 
>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 PM
>> Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting 
>> for a command
>> 
>> Hi Andy,
>> 
>> I believe that Anne was suggesting that you maybe are just accidentally 
>> brushing your hand or thumb on the TrackPad itself.  Not that you're 
>> necessarily doing anything with the TrackPad commander.  The TrackPad can 
>> often be quite sensitive and, thus, react to inadvertent touching by moving 
>> the mouse pointer due to that touch or brush.  If you have a USB mouse, 
>> there's an option whereby you can turn off the Trackpad when this is 
>> connected.  The setting is in System Preferences, Accessibilityy.  Select 
>> the Mouse & TrackPad from the Accessibility features table then check the 
>> box that tells the MacBook to ignore the TrackPad when an external mouse or 
>> TrackPad is present.
>> 
>> HTH.
>> 
>> Later...
>> 
>> Tim Kilburn
>> Fort McMurray, AB Canada 
>> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 14:56, Andy > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Ann.
>>  
>> Thanks for your support.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Although it may be possible that I am activating Trackpad Commander commands 
>> without being aware of it, I doubt that this is my problem, as I believe I 
>> would need first, to turn my Tracpad Commander on.
>>  
>> My problem just seemes to be like I simply timed out as it was taking me too 
>> long to make the changes I wanted to make.
>>  
>>  
>> Here is the text that I'm trying to follow:
>>  
>> Configuring Your Mac to Work Well with VoiceOver
>> Changing some factory default settings will enable your computer to work 
>> better with VoiceOver. Plus, making these changes gives you some practice 
>> with frequently used VoiceOver commands. The first two adjustments involve 
>> the keyboard.
>> Keyboard Changes
>> By default, the function keys are set to control hardware (such as changing 
>> the volume and screen brightness) rather than to work with software. If you 
>> use this setting,you'll have to add the FN key to any function key (F1 
>> through F12) that is part of a VO command. Fortunately, you can reverse this 
>> behavior, so that you use only the FN key when you want to control the 
>> hardware. Here's how:
>> * From anywhere on the Mac, press VO-M to get to the menu bar. You will be 
>> in the Apple menu.
>> * Press VO-Down Arrow until you reach System Preferences, and press 
>> VO-Spacebar to open that item.
>> * Press Tab until you find Keyboard, and press VO-Spacebar to open its menu.
>> * Find the keyboard tab by using VO-Right Arrow, and press VO-Spacebar to 
>> select it.
>> * Press VO-Right Arrow until you get to a checkbox that says, “Use all F1, 
>> F2, etc. keys as standard function keys,” and press VO-Spacebar to check it.
>> The next change will allow the Tab key to go through all controls in a 
>> dialogue box:
>> * While still in the keyboard section in System Preferences, press VO-Left 
>> Arrow until you hear "Keyboard Shortcuts,” and select it with VO-Spacebar.
>> * Now press VO-Right Arrow until you hear "Full Keyboard Access: In windows 
>> and dialogs, press Tab to 

Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting for a command

[Andy]

Hi again Tim.

I think you are right my friend as the table that I have my macbook on is quite 
high, so perhaps I am brushing the on-board trackpad.

I had thought however, that I had to activate the trackpad before any finger 
command work was possible.

This is not a great problem and your solution of perhaps fitting a second usb 
trackpad - £114.00 at the Apple store, would be the way to go and my case could 
easily accomodate such a small device.

Doing this would give me a little more control and confidence, especially at 
this very early stage of my learning.

Thanks very much for your advice and support.

Very best wishes.

Andy.
>From Scotland with Love.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Kilburn 
  To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 PM
  Subject: Re: Can I get my mackbook to be a little more patience when waiting 
for a command


  Hi Andy,


  I believe that Anne was suggesting that you maybe are just accidentally 
brushing your hand or thumb on the TrackPad itself.  Not that you're 
necessarily doing anything with the TrackPad commander.  The TrackPad can often 
be quite sensitive and, thus, react to inadvertent touching by moving the mouse 
pointer due to that touch or brush.  If you have a USB mouse, there's an option 
whereby you can turn off the Trackpad when this is connected.  The setting is 
in System Preferences, Accessibilityy.  Select the Mouse & TrackPad from the 
Accessibility features table then check the box that tells the MacBook to 
ignore the TrackPad when an external mouse or TrackPad is present.


  HTH.


  Later...


  Tim Kilburn
  Fort McMurray, AB Canada 


  On Apr 10, 2017, at 14:56, Andy  wrote:


  Hi Ann.

  Thanks for your support.



  Although it may be possible that I am activating Trackpad Commander commands 
without being aware of it, I doubt that this is my problem, as I believe I 
would need first, to turn my Tracpad Commander on.

  My problem just seemes to be like I simply timed out as it was taking me too 
long to make the changes I wanted to make.


  Here is the text that I'm trying to follow:

  Configuring Your Mac to Work Well with VoiceOver
  Changing some factory default settings will enable your computer to work 
better with VoiceOver. Plus, making these changes gives you some practice with 
frequently used VoiceOver commands. The first two adjustments involve the 
keyboard.

  Keyboard Changes
  By default, the function keys are set to control hardware (such as changing 
the volume and screen brightness) rather than to work with software. If you use 
this setting, you'll have to add the FN key to any function key (F1 through 
F12) that is part of a VO command. Fortunately, you can reverse this behavior, 
so that you use only the FN key when you want to control the hardware. Here's 
how:

  * From anywhere on the Mac, press VO-M to get to the menu bar. You will be in 
the Apple menu.
  * Press VO-Down Arrow until you reach System Preferences, and press 
VO-Spacebar to open that item.
  * Press Tab until you find Keyboard, and press VO-Spacebar to open its menu.
  * Find the keyboard tab by using VO-Right Arrow, and press VO-Spacebar to 
select it.
  * Press VO-Right Arrow until you get to a checkbox that says, “Use all F1, 
F2, etc. keys as standard function keys,” and press VO-Spacebar to check it.

  The next change will allow the Tab key to go through all controls in a 
dialogue box:

  * While still in the keyboard section in System Preferences, press VO-Left 
Arrow until you hear "Keyboard Shortcuts,” and select it with VO-Spacebar.
  * Now press VO-Right Arrow until you hear "Full Keyboard Access: In windows 
and dialogs, press Tab to move keyboard focus between.”
  * There are two radio buttons from which to choose. VO-Right Arrow twice to 
the button that says, "All controls," and check it with VO-Spacebar.
  * Close the Preferences window with Command-W.

  List View
  For many people, VoiceOver is easier to use when items are displayed in a 
list view. To do this, type Command-2.  This will put you in List View in any 
application that supports it.

  Column View
  Another option is to use Column view. This option will display files in a 
manner similar to the Windows Tree view. Press Command-3. Depending on what 
information I need, I will sometimes switch between views.

  You can set the view globally for all Finder windows, including Documents and 
Downloads. Here’s how to do it:

  * Go to the Desktop with Shift-VO-D.
  * Open one of the Finder windows. We’ll open the Documents window with 
Command-Shift-O.
  * Press Command-J to go to View Options.
  * Use the tab key to find the checkbox that says “Always open in column view” 
and the checkbox labeled “Browse in column view.” If these boxes are not 
checked, check them with VO-Spacebar.

  Making VoiceOver Keep Your Place
  By default, when you switch between windows in an application, such as 

Re: VPN questions

[David Chittenden]

Betternet has a free option which only automatically selects the server point. 
The paid version allows one to select the server location. I do not remember 
the price. I subscribed for a year.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 11/04/2017, at 16:22, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
> 
> What's the cost with Better net please David?
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of David Chittenden
> Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 8:56 AM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
> I use BetterNet and VPN Unlimited. BetterNet has better accessibility with 
> iOS VoiceOver. 
> 
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On 11/04/2017, at 04:33, E.T.  wrote:
>> 
>>  Eric is the only one who provided a reasonable answer. I still would like 
>> to see what others use for VPN services.
>> 
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the world, 
>> all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off  
>> and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On 4/10/2017 9:23 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
>>> Actually didn’t morph as much as you think.  Simon is wanting to have a 
>>> private connection back to his work.  In fact, his solution is a good one 
>>> geography willing.  I used the same thing in Florida an antenna on a tower 
>>> back to the office.  Since WiFi has a strong cryptographic feature set it’s 
>>> not that different at all.
>>> 
 On Apr 10, 2017, at 10:36 AM, E.T.  wrote:
 
 Interesting how this VPN thread morphed into something totally unrelated 
 and totally unhelpful.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the world, 
 all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn your mind 
 off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
 
> On 4/10/2017 3:09 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
> Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet been 
> able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to try and 
> reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight line,
> 
> And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a post 
> in without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
> 
> I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my place 
> and the office might be the signal issue,
> 
> Problem is I've been told I'm not allowed to knock them over so 
> that leaves putting the antenna on the neighbours end of the 
> property by the street,
> 
> 
> Guess I'll keep trying,
> 
> They told me this gear would do what I wanted and other uses had 
> got 24 Km distance from the radio and directional antenna  over 
> rural property. b
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
> Granados
> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 10:00 PM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
> Simon, I’ve gotten 50 miles point to point with Ubiquiti gear.;)
> 
> Here’s another pointer though, I found a place to get 25 watt 2.4 and 5 
> GHZ bidirectional amplifiers / preamps.  I’m thinking 100 foot mast, omni 
> directional antenna fed by a LComm 25 watt Amplifier with a WiFi radio 
> set with 20/40 hz coexistence mode disabled so you blanket the 
> frequencies nicely.
> 
> With Ubiquiti gear though unmodified on towers I was able to get 
> signals and a decent lock from Port Saint Lucie Florida down to 
> Palm City.  Regular 802.11N
> 
> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
>> 
>> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood, Get an 
>> omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost 
>> the power up to 75% max and start it up,
>> 
>> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm 
>> connected to my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
>> 
>> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of 
>> my list.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
>> Granados
>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
>> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>> 
>> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t 

Re: VPN questions

[David Chittenden]

I only use it on iOS.

Kind regards,

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +61 488 988 936
Sent from my iPhone

> On 11/04/2017, at 15:40, Eric Oyen  wrote:
> 
> well,
> there are other access points around the neighborhood, although none of them 
> are within close range (signal strengths less than 30%) and mine is only a 
> single device in the house.
> 
> Also, most ordinary users are appliance users, which means their knowledge 
> will not be sufficient enough to determine this. The one who was sharing via 
> my connection was more than just an appliance user, so making the SSID 
> invisible to him wouldn't work.
> 
> btw, I did a channel audit here and the channel I am using is pretty clear 
> all around me. most folks seem to default to either 1 or 9. I am using 6 
> right now. I will break out the other machine and do another audit this next 
> month and see if I need to change things here.
> 
> btw, I was using WPA-PSK when my network was compromised. I have since 
> switched to WPA2-TKIP-AES, turned off the PIN and changed the passphrase to 
> something a lot more complex. As far as I am concerned, anything with a -PSK 
> is just too easy to crack (I know, Reaver can crack it in under 10 minutes).
> 
> anyway, I might decide to reinitialize WPS and keep the network congestion 
> around here to a minimum.
> 
> -eric
> 
>> On Apr 9, 2017, at 8:05 PM, Scott Granados wrote:
>> 
>> That’s not my point though.  My point is even with out putting in your 
>> particulars I can still pull that information out of the air with out having 
>> to enter anything.  The SSID is also used for avoiding interference.  The 
>> networks are really indicated with their MAC addresses so your access point 
>> broadcasts it’s MAC address as part of the packet.  That’s present no matter 
>> what.
>> 
>> I guess what I’m saying is not broadcasting the SSID has no security value 
>> at all and has the effect of causing additional congestion.  Unless of 
>> course you’re out in a rural area with very few networks.
>> 
>> 
>> Over all, turn of that WPS if it’s enabled, the Mac filtering is a good 
>> policy but turn that SSID back on so you and your neighbor’s routers play 
>> nice.  With the changes I suggest and if you’re using WPA2PSK with a good 
>> key you’ll be very secure.
>> 
>>> On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:56 PM, Eric Oyen  wrote:
>>> 
>>> well, when I turned off SSID broadcast, it was a little harder to get new 
>>> devices to connect. basically, it takes inputting the SSID and other 
>>> particulars manually. once connected, there is no trouble.
>>> 
>>> -eric
>>> 
 On Apr 9, 2017, at 3:54 PM, E.T. wrote:
 
 Interesting discussion. Much food for thought. I will study the VPN site 
 you suggested.
 
 One thing you mentioned to Jonathan was that you disabled SSID in your 
 router. How does that affect your Wifi network. Can your devices still see 
 the network? I certainly would not mind hiding from the neighbors.
 
 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the
 mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
 our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
 and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
 
> On 4/9/2017 1:35 PM, Eric Oyen wrote:
> not a problem. there are other reasons to use a VPN. However, 2 things I
> do when using google:
> 1. I am not signed in
> 2. I always use a VPN when searching.
> 
> Also, of late, I have been having some trust issues with my current ISP.
> It seems that they sent me a notice of copyright infringement about a
> shared file. only problem, I was not sharing anything. So, I had to do a
> full blown security audit of my machines and network. I did, eventually,
> found where the issue was (the Lingsys router I have here had a security
> vulnerability that couldn't be easily closed. As a result, one of my
> neighbors was using it to share files. so, even though I had the thing
> password protected, it was still using a number of items that made
> breaking the password trivially easy with the right software. I finally
> managed to get a handle on the situation by turning off the PIN the
> device had, turning off SSID broadcast and engaging MAC filtering. I
> still can't completely trust the device, so I use a VPN pretty much all
> the time now.
> 
> I am looking to upgrade the hardware though. A kit from Routerboard that
> I can install an image of OpenBSD on would make things a lot better
> here. THere are optional add-ons like WiFi B/G/A/N, a bridged set of LAN
> ports, an all weather housing, etc. Once that is done and installed, I
> can install the VPN package for OpenBSD on there, set it up to handle
> that and not worry too much. Then, if I want to be ultra secure, I would
> continue to use a 

RE: VPN questions

[David Diamond]

The thing is, it did work for the longest time.  Now, it prevents me from 
getting on the internet.  Or, it could be the updates through the mac.  Who 
knows.  All I know is apparently, VPNs has compatibility issues with the mac.  
Or, so I have been told by Best buy and the apple support help line. However, 
PIA works fine with my IPhone 6S plus.   

-Original Message-
From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of E.T.
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 7:56 PM
To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: VPN questions

Ok, good. Another David said that PIA did not give him internet access on 
his Mac so question is, are there specific settings I need to deal with? I am 
leaning at VPN Unlimited and will read up on that before I make the decision.

 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
   "God for you is where you sweep away all the
   mysteries of the world, all the challenges to
   our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off
   and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

On 4/10/2017 7:02 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
> Correct, the app puts the appropriate information into the VPN system. The 
> info can always be entered manually. Paying grants access to the particular 
> VPN service networks.
>
> Kind regards,
>
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +61 488 988 936
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 11/04/2017, at 08:21, E.T.  wrote:
>>
>> David,
>>   Thanks. If manually set up on all platforms (Windows, iOS, macOS), 
>> software is not needed, right? Just set up manually.
>>
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>  "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the 
>> world, all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your 
>> mind off  and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>
>>> On 4/10/2017 1:55 PM, David Chittenden wrote:
>>> I use BetterNet and VPN Unlimited. BetterNet has better accessibility with 
>>> iOS VoiceOver.
>>>
>>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>>> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
 On 11/04/2017, at 04:33, E.T.  wrote:

  Eric is the only one who provided a reasonable answer. I still would like 
 to see what others use for VPN services.

 From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
 "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the 
 world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn your 
 mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
 E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com

> On 4/10/2017 9:23 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
> Actually didn’t morph as much as you think.  Simon is wanting to have a 
> private connection back to his work.  In fact, his solution is a good one 
> geography willing.  I used the same thing in Florida an antenna on a 
> tower back to the office.  Since WiFi has a strong cryptographic feature 
> set it’s not that different at all.
>
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 10:36 AM, E.T.  wrote:
>>
>> Interesting how this VPN thread morphed into something totally unrelated 
>> and totally unhelpful.
>>
>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the 
>> world, all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn 
>> your mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>
>>> On 4/10/2017 3:09 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
>>> Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet 
>>> been able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to 
>>> try and reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight 
>>> line,
>>>
>>> And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a 
>>> post in without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
>>>
>>> I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my 
>>> place and the office might be the signal issue,
>>>
>>> Problem is I've been told I'm not allowed to knock them over so 
>>> that leaves putting the antenna on the neighbours end of the 
>>> property by the street,
>>>
>>>
>>> Guess I'll keep trying,
>>>
>>> They told me this gear would do what I wanted and other uses had 
>>> got 24 Km distance from the radio and directional antenna  over 
>>> rural property. b
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
>>> Granados
>>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 10:00 PM
>>> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>>>
>>> Simon, I’ve gotten 50 miles point to point with Ubiquiti gear.;)
>>>
>>> Here’s another pointer though, I found a place to get 25 watt 2.4 and 5 
>>> GHZ 

RE: VPN questions

[Simon Fogarty]

What's the cost with Better net please David?



-Original Message-
From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of David Chittenden
Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 8:56 AM
To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: VPN questions

I use BetterNet and VPN Unlimited. BetterNet has better accessibility with iOS 
VoiceOver. 

David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
Sent from my iPhone

> On 11/04/2017, at 04:33, E.T.  wrote:
> 
>   Eric is the only one who provided a reasonable answer. I still would like 
> to see what others use for VPN services.
> 
> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>  "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the world, 
> all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your mind off  
> and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
> 
>> On 4/10/2017 9:23 AM, Scott Granados wrote:
>> Actually didn’t morph as much as you think.  Simon is wanting to have a 
>> private connection back to his work.  In fact, his solution is a good one 
>> geography willing.  I used the same thing in Florida an antenna on a tower 
>> back to the office.  Since WiFi has a strong cryptographic feature set it’s 
>> not that different at all.
>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 10:36 AM, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>>  Interesting how this VPN thread morphed into something totally unrelated 
>>> and totally unhelpful.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the mysteries of the world, 
>>> all the challenges to our intelligence. You simply turn your mind 
>>> off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
 On 4/10/2017 3:09 AM, Simon Fogarty wrote:
 Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet been 
 able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to try and 
 reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight line,
 
 And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a post 
 in without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
 
 I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my place 
 and the office might be the signal issue,
 
 Problem is I've been told I'm not allowed to knock them over so 
 that leaves putting the antenna on the neighbours end of the 
 property by the street,
 
 
 Guess I'll keep trying,
 
 They told me this gear would do what I wanted and other uses had 
 got 24 Km distance from the radio and directional antenna  over 
 rural property. b
 
 -Original Message-
 From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
 Granados
 Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 10:00 PM
 To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: VPN questions
 
 Simon, I’ve gotten 50 miles point to point with Ubiquiti gear.;)
 
 Here’s another pointer though, I found a place to get 25 watt 2.4 and 5 
 GHZ bidirectional amplifiers / preamps.  I’m thinking 100 foot mast, omni 
 directional antenna fed by a LComm 25 watt Amplifier with a WiFi radio set 
 with 20/40 hz coexistence mode disabled so you blanket the frequencies 
 nicely.
 
 With Ubiquiti gear though unmodified on towers I was able to get 
 signals and a decent lock from Port Saint Lucie Florida down to 
 Palm City.  Regular 802.11N
 
 
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
> 
> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood, Get an 
> omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost 
> the power up to 75% max and start it up,
> 
> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm 
> connected to my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
> 
> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of 
> my list.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
> Granados
> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via 
> 
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t avoid your 
> networks around you’s interference nearly as effectively.
> 
> If everybody is broadcasting then there are scheduling systems that kick 
> in that avoid collisions. If every body isn’t then you’ll slam in to 
> their network traffic and it can degrade performance.
> 
> 
>> On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:54 PM, E.T.  wrote:
>> 
>> Interesting discussion. Much food for thought. I will study the VPN site 
>> you suggested.
>> 
>> One 

RE: VPN questions

[Simon Fogarty]

You a Terrorist or something?

An ET trying to phone home?

It's just radio frequency related laws I have to worry about and the neighbours 
concerned about the pole in the ground or off the top of the house,


-Original Message-
From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Scott Granados
Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 4:23 AM
To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: VPN questions

Put the antenna on your roof on a mast like a television antenna mast.

I don’t know about there but here in the states laws protect your right to do 
this.  If you’re a ham radio operator you have even greater protections.  I had 
a condo / home owners association mess with me once about putting a TV antenna 
on my place.  I responded by installing a 200 foot crank up tower with a 4 band 
YAGI on top.  Yes, I included arial lighting.;). They tried to bring me to 
court and it was thrown out.  At which point I also added a 5 meter Dish in the 
back yard that I was experimenting with trying to build my own home radio 
telescope.  My house looked like an uplink facility by the time I was done and 
all I wanted to do was add a bowtie antenna to get HD over the air.;)

To answer your question, yes, this is your problem.  You can’t have anything 
in-between both sides of the connection.  Trees, buildings, mountains, etc all 
will disrupt the signal.  You have to get the signal over the top of what’s in 
the way.



> On Apr 10, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
> 
> Yeah they told me I could get my network at work, Haven't yet been 
> able to do that, not sure why as maxed out the settings to try and 
> reach the office which is only 1.5 Km in a straight line,
> 
> And the antenna is on the side of the house as couldn't put a post in 
> without upsetting the neighbours or council by laws,
> 
> I do wonder if the houses and multistory buildings between my place 
> and the office might be the signal issue,
> 
> Problem is I've been told I'm not allowed to knock them over so that 
> leaves putting the antenna on the neighbours end of the property by 
> the street,
> 
> 
> Guess I'll keep trying,
> 
> They told me this gear would do what I wanted and other uses had got 
> 24 Km distance from the radio and directional antenna  over rural 
> property. b
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 10:00 PM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: VPN questions
> 
> Simon, I’ve gotten 50 miles point to point with Ubiquiti gear.;)
> 
> Here’s another pointer though, I found a place to get 25 watt 2.4 and 5 GHZ 
> bidirectional amplifiers / preamps.  I’m thinking 100 foot mast, omni 
> directional antenna fed by a LComm 25 watt Amplifier with a WiFi radio set 
> with 20/40 hz coexistence mode disabled so you blanket the frequencies nicely.
> 
> With Ubiquiti gear though unmodified on towers I was able to get 
> signals and a decent lock from Port Saint Lucie Florida down to Palm 
> City.  Regular 802.11N
> 
> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
>> 
>> And if your like me and want to P off the neighbourhood, Get an 
>> omnidirectional antenna  and an outdoor wifi radio unit and boost the 
>> power up to 75% max and start it up,
>> 
>> Ubiquity rocket M2 and 15DBl antenna I have seem to ensure I'm 
>> connected to my network even when I'm 100M down the street,
>> 
>> Can't say what the neighbours see, but my networks always at the top of my 
>> list.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
>> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Granados
>> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 12:25 PM
>> To: MacVisionaries 'Chris Blouch' via 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: VPN questions
>> 
>> So if you hide from your neighbors then your router can’t avoid your 
>> networks around you’s interference nearly as effectively.
>> 
>> If everybody is broadcasting then there are scheduling systems that kick in 
>> that avoid collisions. If every body isn’t then you’ll slam in to their 
>> network traffic and it can degrade performance.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:54 PM, E.T.  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Interesting discussion. Much food for thought. I will study the VPN site 
>>> you suggested.
>>> 
>>> One thing you mentioned to Jonathan was that you disabled SSID in your 
>>> router. How does that affect your Wifi network. Can your devices still see 
>>> the network? I certainly would not mind hiding from the neighbors.
>>> 
>>> From E.T.'s Keyboard. . .
>>> "God for you is where you sweep away all the  mysteries of the 
>>> world, all the challenges to  our intelligence. You simply turn your 
>>> mind off and say God did it." --Carl Sagan
>>> E-mail: ancient.ali...@icloud.com
>>> 
>>> On 4/9/2017 1:35 PM, 

RE: Has setting up email accounts changed in Sierra

[Simon Fogarty]

Hi Donna,

 I did this today with a machine at work and it was fine,

Exchange isn't a provider it is  service 

>From memory you hit enter on exchange and it should open another window with 
>boxes to fill in with your account details 


-Original Message-
From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Donna Goodin
Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 3:59 AM
To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
Subject: Has setting up email accounts changed in Sierra

Hi all,

I'm trying to set up a new exchange account.  I'm in Internet Accounts, but Add 
new account is dimmed, and there doesn't seem to be any way to get it to 
activate.  I've tried highlighting Exchange in the provider list, but that 
doesn't help.  Has something changed in Sierra that I don't know about?  Any 
help is much appreciated.
TIA,
Donna

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RE: Here is an Informative Article on How To Extend Battery Life on iOS and Android Devices

[Simon Fogarty]

Hi Donna,

 Yeah looking at it I'm thinking I might chuck the windows app on my media 
server and use that then I don't have to worry about battery power, or may be 
one of my iPods,

Shame there isn't a apple tv app for sonos 

-Original Message-
From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Donna Goodin
Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2017 12:02 AM
To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Here is an Informative Article on How To Extend Battery Life on 
iOS and Android Devices

Hey Simon,

I find Sonos to be a HUGE battery drain.  My battery on my iPhone 7 goes down 
about 10% after just an hour or so of usage.  I love the app, but if I plan on 
using it for an extended period of time, I plan to re-charge my phone.
Cheers,
Donna 
 
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:03 AM, Simon Fogarty  wrote:
> 
> Hey Mark,
> 
> Thanks for this,
> It's a great article,
> 
> Just gone through my background apps having a look, In the day to now  
> my sonos app has used 53% of my battery useage,
> 
> Crazy how it's gone from 60% to 17% in les than 12 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:macvisionaries@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of M. Taylor
> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2017 8:04 AM
> To: macvisionaries@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Here is an Informative Article on How To Extend Battery Life 
> on iOS and Android Devices
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> The following article, the link to which is located at the end of the text, 
> is an Informative piece on how to extend battery life on iOS and Android 
> devices.
> 
> Enjoy,
> 
> Mark
> 
> How I added four hours of battery life to my smartphone every day for 
> free By Jennifer Jolly, Special for USA TODAY, April 9, 2017
> 
> Phone constantly dying? Here's how to get back battery life
> 
> Columnist Jennifer Jolly describes how to check if emails and apps are 
> draining your smartphone way too fast and what measures won't help. 
> Jennifer Jolly for USA TODAY
> 
> I've had big-time battery drain issues on my last three iPhones. I just 
> figured it was my fault - maybe I'm too addicted to apps, take too many 
> photos, or just use my phone too much?
> 
> It's an issue I've gone to Apple for help with many times. But the 
> Genius's
> - Apple's retail support - were flummoxed, too. After the typical
> troubleshooting: Update iOS? Check. Adjust screen brightness? Check. Use 
> Wi-Fi when possible, turn off location services, and tone down notifications? 
> Check, check, and check again. Nothing seems to solve the issues. Maybe I got 
> the phone wet?
> 
> It was time to kick things up to the next level. I enlisted experts like 
> Scotty Loveless, a former Apple Genius and iOS tech who told me this would 
> not be another, "turn off every useful feature of iOS posts." because those 
> "really grind my gears." Finally, someone speaking my language!
> 
> With that said, here's how I finally beat the worst of my battery battles - 
> and now you can, too.
> 
> #1 Start with your own battery test
> 
> Your battery should only be doing its heavy lifting when you're actually 
> using your iPhone, and the rest of the time it should be relaxing in standby 
> mode. Sometimes an app prevents your phone from going into standby and wreaks 
> havoc on your battery life.
> 
> Here's how to test it:
> 
> Go into Settings > Battery. Scroll all the way down to the bottom and you'll 
> find two numbers, one for Standby and one for Usage. Your Usage number should 
> be way, way lower than your Standby number. If it's not, you might have a 
> problem, and you can confirm it by jotting down your Standby and Usage times 
> and then clicking the lock button on your phone. Let it sit for about five 
> minutes and then check the numbers again. If your Standby time is five 
> minutes higher, you're in good shape, but if your Usage time has bumped up by 
> a more than a minute it's a sign that your phone isn't resting like it should.
> 
> On Android, you can get the same information under Settings > Device > 
> Battery (or Settings > Battery if you have a newer version of Android). The 
> information on this menu is essentially the same as it is on an iPhone, and 
> lists "Device Idle" which is the same as standby mode.
> 
> If you find that your phone isn't "resting" when you're not using it, there's 
> likely a very clear reason, which brings us to #2.
> 
> #2 Don't push me
> 
> When an app is doing things even when you're not using it, it could be 
> malfunctioning, and stuck in an endless loop that's draining all your power.
> That's what happened to me, with, of all things, one of the email accounts I 
> had connected to my phone. Loveless picked up on this right away. "This 
> happens unbelievably often, especially with Exchange push email," he said.
> "I knew when you told me your phone typically dies within six hours of being 
> off the charger, and the Standby and Usage are the