Re: [MBZ] HELP 300SDL ROTOR REMOVAL
To hold the assembly to unscrew the bolts holding the hub to the disk, I
temporarily bolt the hub back on the wheel. It's a lot easier to hold the
wheel than the hub or disk. Also, PB Blaster seems to help get those screws
started. I also put a but of blue locktite on them when I reassemble. Make
sure all mating surfaces are clean before assembling.
Scott Ritchey
Niceville, FL
1982 300 SD 220K miles
1979 300 TD 350K miles
- Original Message -
From: Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:06 AM
Subject: [MBZ] HELP 300SDL ROTOR REMOVAL
Please cross post to [EMAIL PROTECTED] As I only get the digest.
Doing brakes on my car.
I cannot find a section in the damn CD manual.
I've got caliper off.
Do I have to remoce the hub to remove the rotor? Oh S%t, I have no
new seals.
Please confirm or repute.
Regards
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Painting Wheels
BTDT. The stand off seems to have a death grip on the stems. Magic tool the dealer has? On Saturday, July 16, 2005, at 08:24 AM, Craig McCluskey wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 21:36:37 -0700 redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would love to be able to Rory, but for some reason these are all metal with a slotted back(inside the tire) that may screw off? and there is a 13mm nut on the outside that may or may not hold down a stand-off. Rubber grommet between the rim and the back side slotted bit. May have some rubber thing on the front side between rim and stand off. Sounds like you have metal valve stems that insert through the rim hole from the inside and are held in place by a nut from the outside. Remove the nut and the stems will be loose so you can remove them from the inside. Craig ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
RE: [MBZ] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
Since we are on the topic of tranny fluid, what type fluid do you feel is best for the automatic transmission found in my 80 240D and my 85 300D? Also, I have a leak in one of the cloth/rubber return lines that goes from injector to injector. Can I buy large section or roll of it and cut it to length. If so, what is the best I can buy and where do I find it? Thanks in advance for your reply. -Scott Levengood -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:33 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid Tarek Elshenawy wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. Why not put gear oil like I'm used to? In addition, isin't 10W-20 hard to find? Thanks. Tarek EP gear oil will destroy the synchros in a Mercedes transmission. 10-30 Mobil 1 will work fine and Mobil 1 ATF works even better. Any standard ATF will work alright, but Mobil 1 ATF works in Mercedes manual transmissions better than anything I've ever tried. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Re: 350 SDL, blower motor.
There is a strip type fuse which will give those symptoms outside the fuse box a couple inches towards the midline of the car in between the firewalls. Open the little black plastic box and look CAREFULLY at it. It's possibly broken. A couple bucks at most. Ken In a message dated 7/16/2005 2:47:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: 350 SDL, blower motor. To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Suddenly, without any noise or warning the blower stopped running. The blower does not function in heat, defrost or A/C mode. I have not checked any fuse yet. Is there a dedicated fuse for the blower anywhere, besides the fuse box? The illustrations on the CD are not very clear regarding locations. Incidentally, for those who followed the installation of my new 603.970 motor (MB rebuilt), it now has 10,000 miles and is using 1/4 lit in 3000 miles. My fuel consumption has improved and is now about 460 miles per tank- it was 400 miles when brand new. It should eventually reach 525 (that's what I had with the old rod bender). I still have not solved my problem with the SRS light. If anyone out there has a hard bound manual for the 350 SDL- with good wiring diagrams, I certainly would be interested. Constantine
[MBZ] A Kaleb car in VA.
1979 300TD wagon No affiliation, ect. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1category=6783item=7987445058 Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD
Re: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL
o Trampas wrote: Her's is a 420SEL Regards, Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 1:57 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL ignition coil? On a 300SD? Trampas wrote: Well the ignition coil was my fault. I made an engine monitor which I hooked up to her car to test. Thus I taped into the negative side of coil to measure tachometer. Well the wires for engine monitor ran beside seat and chafed such that the coil wire shorted to ground. This heated up coil and caused premature failure of coil. FYI the engine monitor can be seen at http://www.sterntech.com/pulsar200.php I have not heard the end of that one yet as than in the manual for the engine monitor I recommend placing a low amperage fuse in the tachometer sense wire such that if the wire shorts as it did on her car it will blow fuse and engine will still run. I am also to blame for the valve body as that I was the one who rebuilt the transmission last, but that was about 20k miles before that problem happened. I am also to blame for the brushes as that I did not know to check them. I have discovered that they tend to wear out at 170k miles and have kept several other people from similar fate, but... Now the water pump, I might have to blame Mercedes, there was no noise leaks or anything. Going down interstate at 70MPH and it locks up solid, burnt both belts off in matter of seconds. However since it was full of coolant we were able to get off at next exit and call for tow truck. Working on cars for over 20 years and it is the only water pump I have ever seen just lock up. I have seen vanes rust off, vanes come disconnected from shaft, etc (on non Mercedes) but never one lock up with out leaking or bearing making noise, etc. Regards, Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 1:14 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL Why would the ignition coil fail on a 126? The wife started out with our 89 560SEL, but she blew it up, so she has had to go from car to car, blowing them all up as she goes, I cant keep up with it all. Trampas wrote: New head is much cheaper than new wife. Cars break and we love to fix them... Sometimes wifes do not understand the love we have with the cars and why we want to drive them. My problem is that my wife before we were married drove a Honda Accord, for the last 5 years she has driven a W126. It was funny when we were dating she drove my 300SD for a couple of weeks when her parents need her car. Afterwards she got into her Honda drove it around block, parked it got back in the 300SD and sold the Honda for $1000 while saying something about it being a tin box or tin coffin. Now looking to replace my old diesel and she wants a new car which breaks less often. Her car has broken four times in 5 years, once the water pump locked up on the interstate with us, once the brushes in the alternator, once the valve body in transmission stuck and would not engage transmission, and once when the ignition coil failed. So now she wants a newer car which will be more reliable, keep in mind her car is in mint condition but is 18 years old and 200k miles. I suggested a 1991 560SEL, but it looks like a minivan is in our future. I wonder how long it will take for her to remember that not all cars are W126's. Regards, Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 12:46 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL well the head is/was screwed anyways, no other problems though. Steve MacSween wrote: someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I tried to explain how it was impossible for all the coolant to have gone bye bye that quick without being spewed all over the ground. There was none. Cant argue with a woman. LoL, oh bless your soul for trying. But it can't be her fault, it's ALL THAT DAMN CAR'S FAULT (etc.). Shame on you, Kaleb, for not giving her a PERFECT car to drive. Seriously, hope she did not pooch the motor too badly. Mac ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
[MBZ] Re: [Banned] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
I thought they used tranny fluid, type A maybe? Tarek Elshenawy wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. Why not put gear oil like I'm used to? In addition, isin't 10W-20 hard to find? Thanks. Tarek _ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts go to www.buymbparts.com For repairs go to www.oldworldauto.com To unsubscribe or change delivery options, see: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/banned_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] A Kaleb car in VA.
crap, Im sure glad people think of me when the cheap cars appear. Too bad its too far away. Rick Knoble wrote: 1979 300TD wagon No affiliation, ect. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1category=6783item=7987445058 Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
[MBZ] Wheel bearing Grease
Is there consensus that any name brand synthetic wheel bearing grease
is acceptable for our cars?
Seeing as I have to pull the hubs {I'd like to speak to that design
engineer!} to swap rotors, I may as well do bearing service.
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
[MBZ] Re: 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
Message: 3 Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 23:46:48 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: [Banned] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid ... I thought they used tranny fluid, type A maybe? Tarek Elshenawy wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. Why not put gear oil like I'm used to? In addition, isin't 10W-20 hard to find? Thanks. Tarek Hi Kaleb, Isn't type A an automatic transmission fluid? Tarek stated in his post that his transmission is manual! Tarek, I am no excpert but the reason for that may have to do with a car which was intended for operation in very cold climates! Was your car bought in Europ, or manufactured for European use? Omar.
[MBZ] WTB tan 123 driver's side sun visor
I was removing my sun shade yesterday and my visor went click and now hangs flaccidly in my line of sight. So unless someone has a miracle fix for it, I need a new one in tan. Please let me know if you've got one laying around. Thanks, Tom
[MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Thanks, Anthony 1983 240D 62900 mi
[MBZ] Re: Wheel bearing Grease
The recommended wheel bearing grease is the MB dealer Green grease.
Brian
On 7/17/05, Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is there consensus that any name brand synthetic wheel bearing grease
is acceptable for our cars?
Seeing as I have to pull the hubs {I'd like to speak to that design
engineer!} to swap rotors, I may as well do bearing service.
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Re: Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
There are many mixed feelings on power steering fluid. ATF is a lot different than it was in 1983 in terms of additives. MB now sells its own Power Steering fluid. However, I do not think you will see a big problem using ATF. Scores of people don't come on this list and complain they have steering box or pump leaks after switching. Very few people seem to report any problems. In terms of coolant, Dex-Cool is evil. Just do a google search. I would get rid of that ASAP. Inmproper conversions can cause all sorts of problems with buildup and sludge. Use Prestone Green if you don't want to use MB's own antifreeze mixed 50/50 with drinking water. Flush the system several times to get all the Dexcool out. Brian On 7/17/05, Anthony Galioto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Thanks, Anthony 1983 240D 62900 mi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Beater wheels tires available
Joe K. As they say in real estate, Location, location,location?\ TTFN Fred Moir Lynn MA At 09:30 AM 7/17/2005, you wrote: From my '87 TD set of 4, 6.5 Jx 15 H2 ET49, tires are 195/65 R 15, 3 Toyo, 1 Michelin X, pretty good tread on the Mich 1 Toyo. Wheels are nothing to write home about but serviceable. Free for the taking, only proviso is that you take all 4, no cherry picking; they're all overripe anyway. joe ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 18:40:04 -0400 Tarek Elshenawy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. That's a little surprising the first time you encounter it, but it's not as unusual as you'd think. The Honda Civic I used to own called for 10W30 in its manual transmission, the same oil as the engine used. My Volvo called for Type F ATF in its manual tranny.
[MBZ] ATF and Diesel Fuel Return Lines
Hello Everybody, I have developed a leak in one of the cloth/rubber return lines that goes from injector to injector on my 1982 240D. Can I buy a large section of the return line or possibly a roll of it and cut it to length. If so, what is the best I can buy and where do I find it? I am amazed at how the hoses stay in place without any clamp or device to keep it there. I would also like to drain my automatic transmission and replace the filter and fluid in the same car and my 85 300D as well. What is the best choice for ATF for these transmissions? Thanks in advance for your replies. Sincerely, -Scott Levengood
Re: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
Anthony, I swapped out the P/S fluid in my '83 240D over a year ago. Used Mobil 1ATF changed the filter. Steering response is improved. Mobil 1 is what is recommended for our car. The MB type is for the newer cars. You did change the filter??? As for the anti freeze GET RID of the Dex-Cool NOW. Go to your local McParts and get Zerex G-05 this is the same as the MB fluid. Dex-Cool is EVIL flush it out multiple times and replace with the Zerex. When I bought my wifes 300SD it had Dex-Cool in it. Boy it was a mess. Flushed it out with MB Citric Acid flush (Thanks Rusty) then replaced with the Zerex. Engine temps went from 100°C down to 85-90° C depending if the A/C was running. OT I'm in the Market for an '81-'85 300SD for my wife. I killed hers 3 weeks ago. Anybody have one they want to get rid of. Contact me Off List. Russ W. '83 240D '81 300SD (DEAD) Anthony Galioto wrote: I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Thanks, Anthony 1983 240D 62900 mi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] ATF and Diesel Fuel Return Lines
the line is generally sold by the meter. marshall says he prefers the german brands to the american. i don't think there is any real difference between the hose made by cohline (which is guess is original equipment) and continental (which is more famous than cohline). call rusty at 1-800-741-5252 and he can send you as much as you like. a meter is standard. gary At 01:02 PM 7/17/2005, you wrote: Hello Everybody, I have developed a leak in one of the cloth/rubber return lines that goes from injector to injector on my 1982 240D. Can I buy a large section of the return line or possibly a roll of it and cut it to length. If so, what is the best I can buy and where do I find it? I am amazed at how the hoses stay in place without any clamp or device to keep it there. I would also like to drain my automatic transmission and replace the filter and fluid in the same car and my 85 300D as well. What is the best choice for ATF for these transmissions? Thanks in advance for your replies. Sincerely, -Scott Levengood ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] WTB tan 123 driver's side sun visor
For WHAT tom savage wrote: I was removing my sun shade yesterday and my visor went click and now hangs flaccidly in my line of sight. So unless someone has a miracle fix for it, I need a new one in tan. Please let me know if you've got one laying around. Thanks, Tom ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
DO NOT USE DEATH-COOL! Use ZEREX G-05. It should be available at you local Wallyworld/McParts... Mobil 1 atf is fine Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD - Original Message - From: Anthony Galioto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 10:00 AM Subject: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Thanks, Anthony 1983 240D 62900 mi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Kaleb mobile in TX
This one seems a little pricier than most I list. Can probably get if for cheap after the auction ends... No affiliation http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Mercedes-Benz-240D-Diesel-96k-Texas_W0QQitemZ4562845675QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD
[MBZ] Re: 350SDL blower and SRS
Thanks Trampas, Marshall and Ken. Constantine
Re: [MBZ] Re: Wheel bearing Grease
I asked this question several weeks back. Several said that Mobile 1 is
much better than the grease your car was shipped with, so it should be
plenty good. I used it in mine and weighed it just like the book said.
Took just over a half tube.
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:10:11 -0500, brian toscano
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The recommended wheel bearing grease is the MB dealer Green grease.
Brian
On 7/17/05, Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is there consensus that any name brand synthetic wheel bearing grease
is acceptable for our cars?
Seeing as I have to pull the hubs {I'd like to speak to that design
engineer!} to swap rotors, I may as well do bearing service.
--
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD Slate grey, black MBTex, 152,xxx mi
[MBZ] Weekend, shade-tree wheel alignment (long)
The tire wear on Helga was getting bad. I didn't want to spend money on tires without at least improving the chassis 'cause I don't like to throw money away... But Helga is a rusty, old beater. I bought it as a parts car - mainly for the engine. I've now been driving it for 8 months... So I decided I needed to at least _improve_ the alignment, even if I couldn't make it right. Oh, and I did it in the garage, not under a shade tree. Do I need to change the subject? *smile* I have a caster/camber measurement tool. I used it to set both the caster and the camber on both wheels. Any adjustments to caster or camber will alter the toe in! Once I had both the caster and the camber where I wanted it, I started to check the toe-in. Well, the way I used to do it worked, but it was hard to get the steering wheel straight and it took a lot of effort. I figured I could improve the process. I decided to try a Jim Cathey approch. (This is a complement, Jim. You seem to have a talent for achieving high-tech results with common tools and materials.) First, I built a spreader bar. The manual says that 20 - 24 lbs of force needs to be applied outward to the leading edge of the wheels. Here's how I made my speader bar. I took a threaded rod, a couple of nuts, a short piece of 1.5-inch angle iron, and a 2x2x6ft to build it. I took the angle iron, marked it for 2 pieces each 1.5 inches long, but I did not cut it yet because I wanted to drill the holes while it was big and easy to hold on to. Each of the 2 pieces are identical. On one side of the angle I drilled a hole big enough for easy clearance for the threaded rod. On the other angle, I drill two small holes for dry wall screws to attach the angle iron to the 2x2. Once finish, one of the angle iron pieces was attached to one end of the 2x2. This one is for guidance. I put the threaded rod through the big hole, positioned the second angle iron so there would be a reasonable compromise between far-apart-for-better-guidance and close-together-for-long-adjustment-travel. One nut is on the (inside) end to keep the rod from falling out and the other one presses against the second angle iron pieces to apply outward force. (It would be better if I had a long spring between the nut and the angle iron - but I didn't have one on hand) To determine how long the 2x2 needed to be, I held the whole assembly under the car and said About here. I cut off the extra wood and then use a 3-inch piece to act as a foot on the outer end of the threaded rod. To do this, I simply drilled a hole that's just a bit smaller than the rod and threaded the wood block onto the end of the rod. To use the spreader, I put the wood-only end of the 2x2 against the inside of a front tire and the other end (2x2 block on the end of the threaded rod) on the other tire. That puts the 2x2 itself practically touching the oil pan. I turned the nut until I figured there was probably about 24 lbs force on the tire. Here's where the spring would help. Before putting it under the car, I could use a 25lb weight and note how far the spring compressed. Then with the rig under the car I could turn the nut until the spring showed the same deflection and it would be much more accurate than my guess! Now I needed a way to see the angle of the front wheels. I happen to have a level with a laser pointer in it. Straight edge, laser point - I had an inspiration. First try - I pressed the level against the outer edge of the rim. No good. The level was too long and ran into the tire itself when I positioned it so it would not run into the center cap. That meant I needed spacers that could be attached to the bottom edge of the level. I found two precision spacers - commonly called 3 inch pieces of 1/2inch EMT conduit. I attached these to the level with gaffers tape 'cause I have some on hand. (gaffers tape is a lot like duct tape but it doesn't leave goo behind when it's removed) I positioned the tape so the conduit - er, spacer - would be bare where it rested against the rim. The spacers were also tall enough that I could use the ledge just in from the outer edge of the rim. This ledge should be more accurate because it is much less prone to curb damage - but it also requires more precise positioning. All right. I could now accurately project the angle of the front wheel toward the back wheel. But how to spot if the angle is correct? I used a couple business cards. (don't tell my boss... *grin*) I have a spreadsheet to determine where on the card the laser targets needed to be. If any of you want it, let me know and I'll send it off list. On my W123, the distance from the front wheel center hub to the leading edge of the back wheel (where the business card turned laser target was mounted) is 2580 mm. Approximately. From the alignment manual, I got the toe-in angle to be 25 minutes of a degree, with a tolerance of plus or minus 10 minutes. Using basic trig, I computed the desired distance - that is, how much out from
RE: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL
Trampas commented sagely... New head is much cheaper than new wife. BTDT...he is correct in so many ways... Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K
[MBZ] 2004 cars
Brother just called. He has found a new Suburban at a dealership, 2004 model that never sold. Price reduced from $42,000 to $30,000 because of the model year. Any problem with buying a new car that has sat for almost two years w/out being started? If I understand him correctly, this car has almost no miles on it, has just been parked at the dealership. Anyone know anything about the 2004 Suburbans. He said it has a Vortec 1500 engine [he is anything but a mechanic!] and is supposed to get 16/18 for gas mileage. Thoughts and recommendations I could pass on to him? Lives in Florida. -- Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer. I don't even need the drum. - LT Don 1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 1972 Honda CB-500K
Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing Grease
Peter Arnold wrote:
Is there consensus that any name brand synthetic wheel bearing grease
is acceptable for our cars?
Seeing as I have to pull the hubs {I'd like to speak to that design
engineer!} to swap rotors, I may as well do bearing service.
There are many fine synthetic wheel bearing greases (many/most must not
be mixed), but Mercedes is VERY particular about the quantity of grease
to be used. Too much or too little (by even 10%) and premature failure
is likely. The advantage of buying a tube of the Mercedes supplied
grease is there is precisely the proper amount (150 gm as I recall) to
do both front wheels.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
Anthony Galioto wrote: I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Your car came with ATF in the power steering system. Only problem with using modern PS fluid is that it gets pretty stiff in VERY cold weather. Mobil 1 ATF solves that problem. Mercedes makes it's own PS fluid now, but ATF is fine for older (before the '90s) Mercedes. The Prestone Dex-Cool is NOT really suitable. Leave it in for a year or so and then completely flush it and change to Zerex G-05 or Mercedes anti-freeze (they are identical). There are NO other anti-freeze mixtures that meet the Mercedes requirements. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
In a message dated 7/17/2005 5:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The Prestone Dex-Cool is NOT really suitable. Leave it in for a year or so and then completely flush it and change to Zerex G-05 or Mercedes anti-freeze (they are identical). There are NO other anti-freeze mixtures that meet the Mercedes requirements. Marshall, Is the Zerex G05 the correct antifreeze for my 95 E300D? Thank you, Jay 95 MB E300D 92K The new baby 83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin 99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K Cannondale SR500 Allentown,Pa.
[MBZ] Re: 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
I've had a couple other non-MB manual transmission vehicles in the past decade and ALL of them used auto-trans fluid in the manual transmission. It strikes me odd that we're having this conversation with how common the practice is now. -Curt Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 16:26:43 +0300 From: Kayoooh [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 23:46:48 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: [Banned] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid ... I thought they used tranny fluid, type A maybe? Tarek Elshenawy wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. Why not put gear oil like I'm used to? In addition, isin't 10W-20 hard to find? Thanks. Tarek Hi Kaleb, Isn't type A an automatic transmission fluid? Tarek stated in his post that his transmission is manual! Tarek, I am no excpert but the reason for that may have to do with a car which was intended for operation in very cold climates! Was your car bought in Europ, or manufactured for European use? Omar. - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Re: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering
Whomever told you that about the Mobil 1 in the ps pump is an idiot, quit listening to that person. I did that on my car over a year (and like 25kmi) ago and its been just fine, doesn't leak a bit. Many other listers have also been using it. I believe the Dexcool is the horrid GM orange death stuff. If it is I'd get rid of it POST HASTE at worst replace with green stuff, better to go with the correct MB (available from Rusty or the dealer) or the generic replacement the name of which escapes me right now. -Curt '83 240D Hammie 242kmi Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 11:00:09 -0400 From: Anthony Galioto [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Fluids -antifreeze and power steering To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 I just changed the anti freeze and power steering fluids on my 1983 240D. In the PS I put Mobil 1 ATF. I have now been told this would damage the seals. Is this correct ? Should I drain it and install regular PS Fluid? The manual says to use ATF. I also changed the antifreeze. I installed Prestone Dex-Cool, it was more expensive so I thought it's better. I am now worried because I read the container and it says its for an aluminum engine. Should I drain and replace this fluid? Thanks, Anthony 1983 240D 62900 mi __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Damn women and the 300SDL
On 7/16/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why would the ignition coil fail on a 126? The wife started out with our 89 560SEL, but she blew it up, so she has had to go from car to car, blowing them all up as she goes, I cant keep up with it all. Kaleb, looks like it's time to learn some minor circuit tracing and electronics skills. Fix up some circuits that will BUZZ very ANNOYINGLY when the gauges do what they aren't supposed to, like peg at red line. Promise you, you'll find out about things much much quicker. ---Now--- Hus: Was this light on while you were driving? Wife: (contrite and confused looking) Of course not, it must have just come on. --After Audible Circuit Condition Safety Interlock Installation-- Wife: (visibly pissed off) The damn car is BUZZING at me, my ears are RINGING, fix it NOW! Hus: Ah yes, driving without coolant again I see. -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.
Re: [MBZ] Re: Transmission gear oil (was) 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
The reason to use ATF in Mercedes manual transmissions is because of the transmission materials. The phosphorus additives in EP gear oil make the oil acidic and quite chemically aggressive to the synchro materials that MB use. EP oils will DAMAGE and eventually destroy an MB manual transmission. ATF-type oils, on the other hand, use zinc-based anti-wear additives which are far more chemically inert toward non-ferrous metals. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] Painting Wheels
Damn Commie stealership!!! You think they really would use a destructive Ok, yeah, they probably do, just to sell you the new stem set up On Saturday, July 16, 2005, at 08:48 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote: On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 19:48:59 -0700 redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: BTDT. The stand off seems to have a death grip on the stems. Magic tool the dealer has? Impact wrench? Hacksaw? Craig ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
Re: [MBZ] Re: 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid
Gump is loving her Mobil 1 ATF. Best shifting in a manual I have ever had. Not bad for a 33 year old car. On Sunday, July 17, 2005, at 06:26 AM, Kayoooh wrote: Message: 3 Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 23:46:48 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: [Banned] 240D Manual Gearbox Fluid ... I thought they used tranny fluid, type A maybe? Tarek Elshenawy wrote: Hello all. I am going to change the fluid in my manual trans on my 240D. I noticed the owner's manual recommends 10W-20 motor oil for the trans. Why not put gear oil like I'm used to? In addition, isin't 10W-20 hard to find? Thanks. Tarek Hi Kaleb, Isn't type A an automatic transmission fluid? Tarek stated in his post that his transmission is manual! Tarek, I am no excpert but the reason for that may have to do with a car which was intended for operation in very cold climates! Was your car bought in Europ, or manufactured for European use? Omar. -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
