[MBZ] This might be a good deal -- Dallas charity auction

2006-06-09 Thread Rich Thomas


Stock No:   16-51129
Lot No: 43
Year:   1983
Make:   Mercedes Benz
Model:  300D
Color:  White
VIN:WDBAB33A5DB026249
Odometer:   154071
Location:   Dallas
Radio: 	Car Complete: 
Start: 	Tires Good: 
Battery: 	Spare Tire: 
Door Key: 	Trunk Key: 
Ignition Key: 	


Replaced Parts in last Year? What Parts?
Alternator
Anything wrong:
can`t get it to keep running, replaced the alternator and battery, got a 
used starter, but quit messing with it.

Is the car Drivable?

































http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=14135vType=1

Says it won't keep running, replaced alternator, batt, starter.  I'm 
thinking fuel clog or air in line?


--R


Re: [MBZ] OM 603 no start

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Peter Frederick wrote:

Algae in the tank, the tank screen is plugged, most likely.


Or you may have bug throughout the fuel system. That would be consistent 
with the description.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] This might be a good deal -- Dallas charity auction

2006-06-09 Thread Rich Thomas

Scroll down in orig msg for this:
http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=14135vType=1

Says it won't keep running, replaced alternator, batt, starter.  I'm 
thinking fuel clog or air in line?


--R

Rich Thomas wrote:


Stock No:   16-51129
Lot No: 43
Year:   1983
Make:   Mercedes Benz
Model:  300D
Color:  White
VIN:WDBAB33A5DB026249
Odometer:   154071
Location:   Dallas
Radio: 	Car Complete: 
Start: 	Tires Good: 
Battery: 	Spare Tire: 
Door Key: 	Trunk Key: 
Ignition Key: 	


Replaced Parts in last Year? What Parts?
Alternator
Anything wrong:
can`t get it to keep running, replaced the alternator and battery, got a 
used starter, but quit messing with it.

Is the car Drivable?

































http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=14135vType=1

Says it won't keep running, replaced alternator, batt, starter.  I'm 
thinking fuel clog or air in line?


--R
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] [Fwd: South (SF) Bay MBZ mechanic recommendations?]

2006-06-09 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject: South (SF) Bay MBZ mechanic recommendations?
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 14:38:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: ernest breakfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

hi!

   i got this from a friend of someone... can anyone help make a
recommendation/warning?

please use 'Reply All' when responding!

thanks!


cheers!
e



I have a co-worker who is considering buying a mid- to late-80s M-B
diesel.  Anyone have a recommendation of a shop in the South Bay to
get a PPI?








[MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject:The W124 Bible
Date:   Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:49:48 -0400
From:   LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



I bought the above manual a few eeeks ago from Rusty for around $25 and
have finally gotten thru most of it briefly.  I haven't spent the time
to read every page in detail but I have seen enough to know this is
going to be a *very* useful reference manual!  I highly recommend it -

It's got a list of off-the-wall problems like we see in the real world -
along with the solutions.  I expect to get  a lot of use from this over
the coming years.  Don't know if Marshall refers to this or not, but I
see answers that *sound* like they came from Herr Diesel Dokter. ;-)
Things like Cuts out while coasting might be Loss of tach signal.
Pretty cool!

Anyway - it's on Rustys website -- 340+ pages of W124 E Class help.
covering years 86-95.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net http://www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs




Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Mitch Haley
Marshall Booth wrote:
 Lot's of people felt that the 617.950 engine in a 116 was faster than
 the 617.951 engine in a 126. Emissions requirements WERE different!
 

My '79 (small cam, no EGR) is very strong off the line but 0-60 isn't
anything to get excited about. 1980s had the big cam and everybody
I've talked to who owned one thought it quite fast for a 2 ton diesel. 
IIRC, all 617 and 616 got the big cam in 1980. The big cam came with
new bearing towers, because the old bearing bores were smaller than
the new cam lobes.



Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Striplin Admin account wrote:


 Original Message 
Subject:The W124 Bible
Date:   Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:49:48 -0400
From:   LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



I bought the above manual a few eeeks ago from Rusty for around $25 and
have finally gotten thru most of it briefly.  I haven't spent the time
to read every page in detail but I have seen enough to know this is
going to be a *very* useful reference manual!  I highly recommend it -

It's got a list of off-the-wall problems like we see in the real world -
along with the solutions.  I expect to get  a lot of use from this over
the coming years.  Don't know if Marshall refers to this or not, but I
see answers that *sound* like they came from Herr Diesel Dokter. ;-)
Things like Cuts out while coasting might be Loss of tach signal.
Pretty cool!

Anyway - it's on Rustys website -- 340+ pages of W124 E Class help.
covering years 86-95.


The Bible was written by Stu Ritter (who serviced Mercedes cars for 
more than 30 years). He's also the Tech Editor of the MBCA Star 
magazine. He know the cars VERY well. Presently he owns and drives a 124 
400E and a '95 E320T.


Stu did most of the photography as well.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




[MBZ] [Fwd: Wheel Paint]

2006-06-09 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject: Wheel Paint
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 11:01:43 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],  911/993/996 digest [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent silver
paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has a Wurth 
equiv

individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of silver and 2 of
clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to stabilize the surface. 
 The

individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.

Any better deals out there?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs







Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread M.Afzaal Khan

Another good one is the Mercedes Technical Companion
available from Bentley publisher's.
The  diy section has  good  repair's of common faults  including the Becker 
radio repair  section.

I have both the manuals and would be a little more  inclined   on this one .
mak

- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]



Striplin Admin account wrote:


 Original Message 
Subject: The W124 Bible
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:49:48 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



I bought the above manual a few eeeks ago from Rusty for around $25 and
have finally gotten thru most of it briefly.  I haven't spent the time
to read every page in detail but I have seen enough to know this is
going to be a *very* useful reference manual!  I highly recommend it -

It's got a list of off-the-wall problems like we see in the real world -
along with the solutions.  I expect to get  a lot of use from this over
the coming years.  Don't know if Marshall refers to this or not, but I
see answers that *sound* like they came from Herr Diesel Dokter. ;-)
Things like Cuts out while coasting might be Loss of tach signal.
Pretty cool!

Anyway - it's on Rustys website -- 340+ pages of W124 E Class help.
covering years 86-95.


The Bible was written by Stu Ritter (who serviced Mercedes cars for
more than 30 years). He's also the Tech Editor of the MBCA Star
magazine. He know the cars VERY well. Presently he owns and drives a 124
400E and a '95 E320T.

Stu did most of the photography as well.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/357 - Release Date: 6/6/2006







Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: Wheel Paint]

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Striplin Admin account wrote:


 Original Message 
Subject: Wheel Paint
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 11:01:43 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],  911/993/996 digest [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent silver
paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has a Wurth 
equiv

individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of silver and 2 of
clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to stabilize the surface. 
  The

individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.


In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most 
important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many 
light coats.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] OM 603 no start

2006-06-09 Thread Loren Faeth
Yeah, but that was where we started.  No black in the prefilter, fed it by 
gravity from a can through the filter and prefilter.  Good fuel flow 
through the filters and out the main filter.  Same behavior ( starts but 
starves) feeding the engine from the can by gravity.  Algae is always my 
first suspicion.


How do you determine for sure if the shut-off valve is good or not?  I 
still plan to try the pressurizing trick, and putting an electric fuel pump 
between the tank and prefilter.


At 06:38 PM 6/8/2006, you wrote:

Peter Frederick wrote:
 Algae in the tank, the tank screen is plugged, most likely.

Or you may have bug throughout the fuel system. That would be consistent
with the description.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: Wheel Paint]

2006-06-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel
paint. Can't remember the source.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.

 Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent 
 silver paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has 
 a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of

 silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to 
 stabilize the surface.
   The
 individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.

In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most 
important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many 
light coats.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For
used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




Re: [MBZ] OM 603 no start

2006-06-09 Thread Peter Frederick
Make sure you have flow out of the IP overflow -- a clog in the inlet 
line will prevent fuel delivery to the IP fill gallery, and hence 
nothing out the injectors.  A plugged main filter, or plugged main 
filter to IP line, will cause you problem.


It's possible the IP is toast (although this one isn't any worse than 
any other, I don't believe, except for the electronic idle speed 
control). Not likely,  though.


No fuel out the injector lines with the cap nuts cracked sure sounds 
like a dry IP to me.


If the stop lever is up, the shutoff is fine.  Should press down easily 
and stop the engine instantly, and rise instantly when the key is 
switched on.


It is possible that the shutoff mechanism is stuck, but some injector 
cleaner (Diesel Purge) should fix that pronto.


Again, make SURE you have fuel going into and coming out of the IP, not 
just the filters.  A plugged feed line will cause 100% of the fuel to 
overflow the main filter..


Once you get the IP full of air, it can take a while to purge it out, 
and you must also purge the injection lines before it will run 
properly.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Re: [Fwd: Wheel Paint]

2006-06-09 Thread Bill Gallagher
I sand blasted my wheels, cleaned them with acetone, several light coats 
of epoxy primer, several light coasts of base coat, and about 10 light 
layers of clear coat. I used a professional spray gun..Wheels look 
better than new cuz no clear coat in that era.
   suggest used light sprays of each application with a spray 
can...those new spray can which can be recharged seem to look good in 
theory. Keep in mind the more moisture in the air, fish eyes will appear 
on the painted surface..


Bill
1981 300 TD

  


Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel
paint. Can't remember the source.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.

  
Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent 
silver paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has 
a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of



  
silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to 
stabilize the surface.

  The
individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.



In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most 
important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many 
light coats.


Marshall
  




Re: [MBZ] OM 603 no start

2006-06-09 Thread Loren Faeth
I'll check all that when i get there.  I will be on the road the next 10 
days.  Will post what i find when i get a chance.


Thanks to all who offered ideas.

Loren

At 09:26 PM 6/8/2006, you wrote:

Make sure you have flow out of the IP overflow -- a clog in the inlet
line will prevent fuel delivery to the IP fill gallery, and hence
nothing out the injectors.  A plugged main filter, or plugged main
filter to IP line, will cause you problem.

It's possible the IP is toast (although this one isn't any worse than
any other, I don't believe, except for the electronic idle speed
control). Not likely,  though.

No fuel out the injector lines with the cap nuts cracked sure sounds
like a dry IP to me.

If the stop lever is up, the shutoff is fine.  Should press down easily
and stop the engine instantly, and rise instantly when the key is
switched on.

It is possible that the shutoff mechanism is stuck, but some injector
cleaner (Diesel Purge) should fix that pronto.

Again, make SURE you have fuel going into and coming out of the IP, not
just the filters.  A plugged feed line will cause 100% of the fuel to
overflow the main filter..

Once you get the IP full of air, it can take a while to purge it out,
and you must also purge the injection lines before it will run
properly.

Peter





Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.

2006-06-09 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 08 Jun 2006 11:08:41 -0400 Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Who sells them? 
 
 Now that you mention it, I have heard my mom talk about this from way
 back, but never understood what she meant. I have central AC but dislike
 it, so I'm very interested in this.

How well they work depends upon where you live. (Where do you live?)

Here in dry New Mexico, they work quite well, even filtering some forest
fire smoke out of the air going into the house.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] unobtanium, but on crack

2006-06-09 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 10:26:43 -0400 John Berryman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   High? If it really has 127,000, $3500 is real fair. Although, as  
 usual the auction is not near over. Why do salvage titles scare  
 people so much? What if it was a recovered stolen or something that  
 didn't involve chassis damage? What if it was totaled and repaired  
 properly?The seller might be truthful if asked about it.

I asked. I'll let you know what he says.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] OT: A possibly entertaining story, addition.

2006-06-09 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 6/7/2006 1:41:43 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I agreed  with what you said, Johnny Buntil I moved to AZ.
AC is a must in  AZ.



Bob, and All,
 
The wife and I dropped by one of our favorite Chandler Sports Bars about  5PM 
on Tuesday.  I think it was about 106 degrees.   As we went  to sit down we 
were told the AC was out.  We could feel a lot of air moving  from the ceiling 
fans so we stayed.  We were there nearly two hours while  having supper and 
cold libations. It wasn't too bad.
 
I did offer to try a power off reset for them, but the manager declined,  
saying they had tried that and service would be there in the morning.
 
Regards  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 8, 2006, at 1:44 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


Lot's of people felt that the 617.950 engine in a 116 was faster than
the 617.951 engine in a 126. Emissions requirements WERE different!

Marshall



	I know my 79 300SD aka the $100 car gets up and goes better than any  
300D, 300CD, 300TD or 81 and later 300SD I have driven. I have owned  
all the models listed, lots of them and driven many, many more. I  
never swapped an earlier turbo engine a la W116 300SD into a later  
123 or 126 but gearing has to have some effect and I believe final  
drive ratios are not the same. Never ran the $100 car until it would  
go no faster but am willing to wager that it will not top out at the  
same speed as any turbo 123 in stock trim.
	Another observation I have made is that right out of the crate,  
without tweaking wastegate and ALDA a 123 turbodiesel from 82 will  
walk all over an 83,84 or 85. Post tweak I detect no difference at  
all. This scenario has been tested by your's truly over and over. Not  
being able to measure actual enrichment besides the tell-tale wisp of  
black smoke at high revs may not be too scientific but I strove to  
attain an even 12psi boost across the board.
	I would expect the 126 w/turbodiesel to lose a drag race against  
123s and 116s. It just stands to reason that being a larger and  
heavier car it should. While I'm at it, in my opinion, nothing  
compares to how the station wagons with good front and rear  
suspension ease on down the road. All the coupes I've owned road  
harsher but cornered flatter and with greater ease.

I love'em all. What was the question?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

I would expect the 126 w/turbodiesel to lose a drag race against
123s and 116s.


But not the 603-equipped SDL's, of course!  They really do scoot.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OM 603 no start

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 8, 2006, at 1:45 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:

I bet there weren't 15 per square mile back when there were still  
wolves

around.


	Studies in the Adirondack Region of NY show that the wolves still  
exist but they cross-bred with coyotes. Every single coyote that was  
tested had both red wolf and grey timberwolf DNA. The nationwide  
average weight of coyotes is 26#, according to the study. Around here  
it is common to see them well over 40#. They look more like a German  
Shepard than Wiley Coyote. Out West they look scrawny and mangey in  
comparison.
	They have also adopted some of the wolf-pack hunting techniques and  
several hikers, joggers and backroad strollers reported being  
encircled by them and deeply concerned for their own well-being. A  
friend and native resident of my home town and his wife were worked  
by a pack in broad daylight to the point that they fled to a near-by  
farmhouse to call for a ride. They felt they were in real danger.
	Coyotes, by nature are timid animals and rarely hang around in the  
presence of adult humans and domestic dogs. There may be  
environmental factors at play too, many housing developments have  
sprung up in this area.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] OT: Grand Cherokee for Toyota Compact pick-up swap

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 8, 2006, at 1:51 PM, Dave Wakin wrote:


Johnny,

Here is one not to far away from you - needs some work and not 4x4  
though.


Dave W


Thanks but it must be a 4x4.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage-update

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 8, 2006, at 4:08 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:


What's the best way to track down a leak like this?


	Run it under water with your thumb on the breather hole and look for  
bubbles?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage-update

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 8, 2006, at 5:13 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


Start by cleaning the engine. Then look for new oil deposits over the
next few days.

Marshall


I've suggested the same months ago.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



[MBZ] Wheel Paint

2006-06-09 Thread John Peterson
Those are good prices- I did all 4 wheels this year, prep is key as with 
any paint job.  Light coats of the paint, sanding slightly with 400 
between.  Then the lacquer, 4 coats and sand before the last one.  I 
think they turned out perfect- hard pressed to see the difference from 
factory.


Durability is unknown at this point, they have lasted 6 mo so far.

John Peterson
1991 300D 2.5 79k
Wurth Wheels

Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel
paint. Can't remember the source.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.

  
Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent 
silver paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has 
a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of



  
silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to 
stabilize the surface.

  The
individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.



In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most 
important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many 
light coats.


Marshall
  




Re: [MBZ] Swamp coolers

2006-06-09 Thread Mike Canfield
Careful with the swamp coolersEver hear of Legionnaires 
disease(Sp?)Spread by those giant roof mounted swamp coolers if they 
aren't kept sanitized.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swamp coolers



There are still lots of swamp coolers around here in AZ.  New ones
are available.Mostly used for replacement ..  Newer homes (last
15 years) only have A/C...

Most they are roof mounted and bring in dry air, pass it through a
waterfall and distribute the humidified air throughout the duct
system of a house.

Downside...  The calcium and other stuff in the water can build up
and make a mess.  Really should have a water decalcification system
to go with it.  Many homes have both A/C and swamp coolers and use
one or the other depending on how high the temp gets..

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ  Only has A/C and keep it at 83F...

On Jun 8, 2006, at 8:00 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


No, basically its sort of like an AC, sort of.  They have different
sizes of them ranging from little table top ones to bigger ones
that sit
outside the window with the air vent sticking in the windows
blowing in.
  You basically fill the pan up with water and it pumps the water
up to
the top and trickles down a fiberous material thru which a fan
blows air
with is cooled by the flowing water.  They can actually work pretty
well.  You have to refill it with water every so often.

Steve MacSween wrote:


Okay, now you have me interested but confused.

Is this a dehumidifier you're talking about?

Mac

on 6/8/06 10:45 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Didnt know people still used those things.  We called them water
coolers
here. I remember when I was a kit many folks used to use those
things
before they had AC, in fact, we used to use one as well.

Desert Rat wrote:



What I appreciate the most about dry heat is the fact that all I
need
to cool our place is an evaporator cooler for pennies a day
instead of
$ per hour if I had to use the A.C. Other day it was 114 and
never had
to use AC. Now, when we get the monsoons in August and humidity
goes
over 40%, the cooler doesn't work.
On 6/7/06, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:





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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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[MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA

2006-06-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Called on this in the local paper. $600 or BO. Guy said he'd take 400.
Doesn't run-engine turns but doesn't start. Guy had bought the car as a
project and is now giving up. Said someone told him it might be the
rack-don't know if it was a mechanic or not..  Don't know about mileage.
Said body is good. Yellow with brown leather interior.  I am tempted by
the fantasy that new fuel filters and fresh fuel would turn it into a 3K
car or a Kevin special CD-but can't chance the IP .. May go look at it
just for fun but probably  not, even though I desperately want a 123
coupe.
 
Here is contact info- 


1978 Mercedes-Benz 300 



Description - $600, MERCEDES: 1978 300 CD Coupe, $600 or best offer.
Call 508-977-0549.

 
 
It is in Dighton MA-about 20 miles east of Providence RI
No interest etc (except coupe drool on shirt.)
 
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


[MBZ] times running out OK Don

2006-06-09 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4646349169rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITrd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA

2006-06-09 Thread Mike Canfield
Come and get it Kaleb!!!  Less than your usual price so it shouldn't be 
T far.  LOLOL, Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 9:03 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA



Called on this in the local paper. $600 or BO. Guy said he'd take 400.
Doesn't run-engine turns but doesn't start. Guy had bought the car as a
project and is now giving up. Said someone told him it might be the
rack-don't know if it was a mechanic or not..  Don't know about mileage.
Said body is good. Yellow with brown leather interior.  I am tempted by
the fantasy that new fuel filters and fresh fuel would turn it into a 3K
car or a Kevin special CD-but can't chance the IP .. May go look at it
just for fun but probably  not, even though I desperately want a 123
coupe.

Here is contact info-


1978 Mercedes-Benz 300



Description - $600, MERCEDES: 1978 300 CD Coupe, $600 or best offer.
Call 508-977-0549.



It is in Dighton MA-about 20 miles east of Providence RI
No interest etc (except coupe drool on shirt.)

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
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Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Re: [Fwd: Wheel Paint]

2006-06-09 Thread LarryT

Bill wrote:I used a professional spray gun..

Thanks for the info on painting - since you use a gun  air pressure I 
assume you used paint from a quart can or similar.  Where/what kind of paint 
did you use?  My paint guy can probably provide a product similar to Wurth 
but I suspect there might be additives in the paint making it more 
appropriate for use on wheels.


I always buy the paint I use to paint my cars from a PPG dealer and have 
gotten comfortable using the Omni AU product line.  I wonder if PPG would 
carry a color that's suitable?  I'll call my paint guy later -- 


Thanks again for all the help --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Re: [Fwd: Wheel Paint]



I sand blasted my wheels, cleaned them with acetone, several light coats
of epoxy primer, several light coasts of base coat, and about 10 light
layers of clear coat. I used a professional spray gun..Wheels look
better than new cuz no clear coat in that era.
   suggest used light sprays of each application with a spray
can...those new spray can which can be recharged seem to look good in
theory. Keep in mind the more moisture in the air, fish eyes will appear
on the painted surface..

Bill
1981 300 TD



Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel
paint. Can't remember the source.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.



Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent
silver paint for alloy wheels?  I'll need the clear also - Griots has
a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of





silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to
stabilize the surface.
  The
individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.



In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most
important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many
light coats.

Marshall



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[MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread George Larribeau
I am going to Replace the compressor, Dryer, under hood AC lines and the 
expansion valve (bummer) in my 85 300SD. It currently has a R12 charge (a bit 
low) and has remained sealed. I will have the Freon removed ( yeh I know we use 
to just vent it, rules are rules I will just live with them). I have found more 
that one AC shop that will charge it with R12. (for a price). After I 
reassemble it I intend to evacuate it. I have a 1HP Alcatel 2 stage lab Vacuum 
pump. And get it down to 100 microns or so .. Not having R12 anymore I intend 
to put about 5 to 10 PSI of dry nitrogen in the system so it is not trying to 
draw out side air while I am waiting to get it charged (logistically it could 
be about a week) I will have the AC compressor unplugged to prevent unfortunate 
events.Now the system will have no oil in it. Is it acceptable the have the AC 
shop use the oil charge or should I try to find some oil in a bottle and pore 
it in while reassembling the system. When I open it I have been told to look 
for 'mud' and if it has it, it will need to be purged ..Sugestions .



George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  115K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket)


[MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-09 Thread Steve MacSween
Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd like
to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.

TKS

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)




Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread dieselbenz24
Where can I get the w123 bible ? or is there such a thing ?
 
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 92kmi

Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam 
and email virus protection.


Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

I am going to Replace the compressor, Dryer, under hood AC lines


Easy-squeezy!


and the expansion valve (bummer) in my 85 300SD.


So sorry to be you!

After I reassemble it I intend to evacuate it. I have a 1HP Alcatel 2 
stage lab Vacuum pump. And get it down to 100 microns or so ..


Vast overkill, and the pressure will never get that low due to the oil
boiling slightly.  But that won't hurt any.

Not having R12 anymore I intend to put about 5 to 10 PSI of dry 
nitrogen in the system so it is not trying to draw out side air while 
I am waiting to get it charged (logistically it could be about a week) 
I will have the AC compressor unplugged to prevent unfortunate events.


That sounds reasonable.  You can go up to 100 psi or more with no ill
effects.  That might help to show up any small leaks.

Now the system will have no oil in it. Is it acceptable the have the 
AC shop use the oil charge or should I try to find some oil in a 
bottle


Just let them do it, I can't imagine they'll bill all that much.
It's just oil, after all (of the correct sort), and something they
should have on hand.

When I open it I have been told to look for 'mud' and if it has it, it 
will need to be purged ..Sugestions .


If the hose from the compressor is full of gunk it's because the
old compressor grenaded and put shrapnel all through the system.
That can be difficult to completely remove, and if any is left
it will take out the new compressor quickly.  Given your other
replacements, a new condenser might not be a bad way to go in
that case, as it's immediately downstream from the compressor.
The remainder of the system would need to get a good flushing too.

My AC stories:

http://cathey.dogear.com/efair.html
http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html

Deep vacuuming app note:

http://www.jbind.com/tech_info/pdf_docs/DeepVacArticle.pdf

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.

2006-06-09 Thread archer
What is the humidity level in the building when they are working well?  Do 
people who use them have any problems with mold growth?

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.



On Thu, 08 Jun 2006 11:08:41 -0400 Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Who sells them?

Now that you mention it, I have heard my mom talk about this from way
back, but never understood what she meant. I have central AC but dislike
it, so I'm very interested in this.
--- 

How well they work depends upon where you live. (Where do you live?)

Here in dry New Mexico, they work quite well, even filtering some forest
fire smoke out of the air going into the house.


Craig

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/357 - Release Date: 6/6/2006







[MBZ] test

2006-06-09 Thread Roger Conlon

This is just a test.

_
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/





[MBZ] 240D Evap drain tube?

2006-06-09 Thread Harry Watkins
Someone please tell me how to get to the evap drain tube.  Its leaking or 
missing.  1981 Manny tran.

Right side inside?  Left side inside?  Under the car?

Any idea what size hose I'll need for a replacement?

Thanks
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans


Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread Gary Hurst

nope, no 123 bible.  you are abandoned and on your own

best thing for you to look for is the old service manuals in book form.
they are always floating about on ebay


On 6/9/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Where can I get the w123 bible ? or is there such a thing ?

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 92kmi

Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading
spam and email virus protection.
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Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-09 Thread Gary Hurst

i think i'm running 205/65 on my 15s, but don't know offhand

On 6/9/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd
like
to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.

TKS

--
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Evap drain tube?

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Someone please tell me how to get to the evap drain tube.
Its leaking or missing.


They're almost all the same, a tube (or two) that leads
from the bottom of the heater box through the hump to the
outside over the transmission.  They can be rather difficult
to replace.  What I've found happens is that the tube degrades
and cracks right where it attaches to the box, leaking onto
the floor.  Because they're so hard to replace properly, I
have used weatherstrip cement and attached collars of bicycle
inner tube to them to seal up the cracks.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread George Larribeau

I am going to Replace the compressor, Dryer, under hood AC lines


Easy-squeezy!


and the expansion valve (bummer) in my 85 300SD.


So sorry to be you!


I was told to do this, The last time I had a gauge set on the AC system it 
had a lo side pressure of about 20 at idle and very low hi side. The high 
side would come up at about 3000 rpm the lo side would read vacuum 15- 20 
inches or so. That is when I got the car. The ac would sort of function on n 
a day when you did not really need it. I have had the car for 2 years and 
don't turn on the Air I don't know yet if the compressor decided to mimic a 
fragmentation grenade yet. I was hoping to be lucky and just have a weak 
compressor. This could make the repair easer.


When I get the system open what do I look for to determine if it is 
contaminated

Maybe I could get lucky and not replace the expansion valve?



George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  115K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket) 






Re: [MBZ] times running out OK Don

2006-06-09 Thread OK Don

It's yours -- I don't have a place to put it.

On 6/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4646349169rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITrd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA

2006-06-09 Thread kevin kraly

Dwight,

It's certainly worth checking out if you want a coupe.  It could very well 
be like mine was and has tight valves.  I took a chance on mine because it 
was only at the 200K mark.  I don't think that I would have bought it with 
the same symptoms if it had double the mileage.  Give it a look and see if 
it follows you home.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela 





[MBZ] St. Louis CL 1990 'burb, needs head/gasket $500

2006-06-09 Thread Rick Knoble
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/169783601.html

Someone wants/needs this..
No affiliation,
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
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 I was told to do this, The last time I had a gauge set on the AC
 system it
 had a lo side pressure of about 20 at idle and very low hi side. The
 high
 side would come up at about 3000 rpm the lo side would read vacuum 15-
 20
 inches or so.

Sounds like a classic restriction in the system.  There's a filter
screen inside the receiver/drier, and usually another one in the
expansion valve.  If the system gets plugged you'll get a very low
pressure on the suction side (which could not happen with a 'weak'
compressor), because there's no flow and it's sucking a vacuum.
You will get very cold vent temperatures, but very little actual
cooling.  I had exactly this in the Ebola Fishtank, where vent
temps hit 20 degrees and falling.  It was a plugged screen in
the expansion valve, all I did was remove and clean it.

It's a very different experience when compared to the nightmare
that is the valve in a 126!

If you don't get 'normal' low-side pressures (in the 30 psi area) the
high side pressure doesn't mean much.  You need flow, and watching
the sight glass can give you hints there.  An undercharged system
(or a normal charge for a hydrocarbon refrigerant) should have _very_
visible flow through the glass.  If there's no flow then the
pressures can lead you to why.  High low-side with low high-side
and no flow indicates bad valves in the compressor.  Low low-side
means that there is a restriction in the system.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Maybe I could get lucky and not replace the expansion valve?


If it's just plugged and there's not a hose full of crap
coming out of the compressor (indicating that it was the
source of pluggage), likely you don't need to replace it either.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:

I would expect the 126 w/turbodiesel to lose a drag race against
123s and 116s.


But not the 603-equipped SDL's, of course!  They really do scoot.


But a 124 with a 603.96 engine is faster yet!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve MacSween wrote:

Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd like
to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.


The proper tire size IS 205/65x15.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread George Larribeau

Maybe I could get lucky and not replace the expansion valve?


If it's just plugged and there's not a hose full of crap
coming out of the compressor (indicating that it was the
source of pluggage), likely you don't need to replace it either.



Now this is very obvious  crap right ?
( can be easily identified ?)



George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  115K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket)




Re: [MBZ] Salvage titles

2006-06-09 Thread RELNGSON
Why do salvage titles scare people so much?

How do insurance companies feel about insuring salvage vehicles? Any hands-on 
personal experience?

And if you buy a car whose factory warranty had not expired, don't expect any 
warranty repairs no matter how trivial the reason for the salvage title.

A friend of mine who runs a perfectionist's body shop (mostly Porsche with 
the occasional MB and BMW) bought a nearly new W220 S500 from a Texas auction 
that had a salvage title. It's only defect was that the Texas matron who owned 
it allowed the cowl drain to become plugged with leaves. Water got into the car 
and wet down the rear SAM. The local dealer who had the car in for repairs 
led the insurance adjustor to believe that the car was beyond economic repair, 
hoping to buy it cheap. My friend outbid him somehow and the car came to 
Seattle. All it needed was the rear SAM to get it going.

Soon after it needed some sort of repair which would be covered by the 
factory warranty. Except that the car was now branded and therefore no 
warranty. 
Factory rep said no way.

RLE


Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Maybe I could get lucky and not replace the expansion valve?


If it's just plugged and there's not a hose full of crap
coming out of the compressor (indicating that it was the
source of pluggage), likely you don't need to replace it either.


And I should have been more clear that I'm talking about
the compressor here.  If it ain't broke don't fix it!

There are really only two places where plugging can occur,
ignoring physical damage to a line.  The expansion valve,
and the receiver/drier.  These both feature screens and/or
small orifices.  If the drier's desiccant bag breaks it
can travel downstream and plug up the expansion valve.


Now this is very obvious crap right? (can be easily identified?)


I should think so.  I have personally never seen it, but
the term 'black death' has been used a lot.

-- Jim




[MBZ] The REAL story

2006-06-09 Thread RELNGSON
www.sniffpetrol.com


Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

I would expect the 126 w/turbodiesel to lose a drag race against
123s and 116s.


But not the 603-equipped SDL's, of course!  They really do scoot.


But a 124 with a 603.96 engine is faster yet!


But is not a 116, 123, or 126.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread George Larribeau

And I should have been more clear that I'm talking about
the compressor here.  If it ain't broke don't fix it!



I have repaired non-broken things before. It's funny (many months after the 
fact) because it does usually wind up being broke after the repair. --
The reason that I thought that the compressor is bad is: At Idle the LO side 
is about 24 Psi ( or something, it matched a listing in a book) The HI side 
would not make 100 Psi (75 ?? don't remember). As the RPM is increased 3 to 
4 K the HI side would jump up to over 200 Psi. The LO side would be 15 to 20 
inches vacuum. The gauges seemed very responsive to RPM. Back off on the 
RPM, the HI side drops and LO side comes right back up. I will put a set of 
gauges on it this weekend and document the observations. What should I look 
for? This observation is from memory and most likely somewhat flakey.  20 
years ago I worked on refrigeration in lab equipment however the compressors 
run at fixed RPM. Switched on and off for temp control.



Now this is very obvious crap right? (can be easily identified?)


I should think so.  I have personally never seen it, but
the term 'black death' has been used a lot.

-- Jim

But I don't what to go on the cart


George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  115K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket) 






Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
I think the 123 Haynes paper manual is the closest-I got one from Rusty.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 12:08 PM
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]


Where can I get the w123 bible ? or is there such a thing ?
 
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 92kmi

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Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Luther Gulseth


And the ultimate would be a 124 coupe with OM603 w/Finnish mods..

Luther 

Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 Jim Cathey wrote:
  I would expect the 126 w/turbodiesel to lose a drag race against
  123s and 116s.
  
  But not the 603-equipped SDL's, of course!  They really do scoot.
 
 But a 124 with a 603.96 engine is faster yet!
 
 Marshall
 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA

2006-06-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Yes, I need to call him back and get the mileage and the details of what
he knows as to when it stopped starting, etc. Did yours run at all? My
first thought was fuel.
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kevin kraly
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cheap '78 300 CD in SE MA


Dwight,

It's certainly worth checking out if you want a coupe.  It could very
well 
be like mine was and has tight valves.  I took a chance on mine because
it 
was only at the 200K mark.  I don't think that I would have bought it
with 
the same symptoms if it had double the mileage.  Give it a look and see
if 
it follows you home.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela 


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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 9, 2006, at 5:15 PM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

I think the 123 Haynes paper manual is the closest-I got one from  
Rusty.


It's junk in comparison to the MB factory manuals.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Luther Gulseth wrote:


And the ultimate would be a 124 coupe with OM603 w/Finnish mods..


Not if you wanted the engine to last for 250-300kmi!!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey

And the ultimate would be a 124 coupe with OM603 w/Finnish mods..


You have to be absolutely nucking futs to get to the Finnish line...

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]

2006-06-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
No argument there. 

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 5:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]



On Jun 9, 2006, at 5:15 PM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

 I think the 123 Haynes paper manual is the closest-I got one from
 Rusty.

It's junk in comparison to the MB factory manuals.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-09 Thread Steve MacSween
on 6/9/06 3:21 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Steve MacSween wrote:
 Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd like
 to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.
 
 IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
 what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.
 
 The proper tire size IS 205/65x15.
 
 Marshall

Thanks Marshall, I agree completely but for some reason the local MBz
braintrust thinks they are too low-section.

205/65 it shall be.

Mac




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-09 Thread Jim Cathey
The reason that I thought that the compressor is bad is: At Idle the 
LO side
is about 24 Psi ( or something, it matched a listing in a book) The HI 
side

would not make 100 Psi (75 ?? don't remember).


Both pressures are low.  Compressor _could_ cause this, but it sounds
undercharged.


As the RPM is increased 3 to
4 K the HI side would jump up to over 200 Psi.


Still a bit low.  I push 300 psi when charging with my test
refrigerant on a hot day.  But what I'm really doing is matching
the _temperature_ scale on the R12 gauge to the temperature of
the high-side fitting (while trying to keep it under 300 psi,
while making sure the low-side hovers above freezing, engine at
2000 rpm).  A dead compressor couldn't do this.


The LO side would be 15 to 20 inches vacuum.


Also too low.  (Translation: the compressor is being too effective
for current conditions.)  Undercharged?  Does not sound like a
dead compressor to me.


What should I look for?


This is still R12?  If the sight glass is frothy the system is
definitely undercharged, and pressures _will_ be low.

Are you _sure_ that there's anything more wrong than it's just
undercharged?  The systems (all of them) do leak a little, which
is why R12 systems were built to hold an excess charge.  Got them
past the warrantee period before they stopped cooling.

Most of our cars require charging annually now.  But the test
refrigerant is both cheap and benign.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve MacSween wrote:

on 6/9/06 3:21 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Steve MacSween wrote:

Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd like
to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.

The proper tire size IS 205/65x15.

Marshall


Thanks Marshall, I agree completely but for some reason the local MBz
braintrust thinks they are too low-section.

205/65 it shall be.

Mac


Depend on the year of the car. 126s made from '81-'85 used 14 wheels 
and 70 series tires. From '86 thru '91 126 used 15 wheels and 65 series 
tires.


If you're using 15 wheels on an earlier 126, go with the 65 series tires!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Salvage titles

2006-06-09 Thread George Larribeau
Salvage titles mean just that salvage. One would always check out the car 
with great care. In an attempt to look at from the point of view of the 
manufacture (warranty provider) a car that has been declared a total loss by 
the insurer would be hi risk of all kinds of scams and abuse. Older cars 
with salvage titles in my experience has less effect on the cars 
desirability.


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas





Why do salvage titles scare people so much?

How do insurance companies feel about insuring salvage vehicles? Any 
hands-on

personal experience?

And if you buy a car whose factory warranty had not expired, don't expect 
any

warranty repairs no matter how trivial the reason for the salvage title.

A friend of mine who runs a perfectionist's body shop (mostly Porsche with
the occasional MB and BMW) bought a nearly new W220 S500 from a Texas 
auction
that had a salvage title. It's only defect was that the Texas matron who 
owned
it allowed the cowl drain to become plugged with leaves. Water got into 
the car

and wet down the rear SAM. The local dealer who had the car in for repairs
led the insurance adjustor to believe that the car was beyond economic 
repair,

hoping to buy it cheap. My friend outbid him somehow and the car came to
Seattle. All it needed was the rear SAM to get it going.

Soon after it needed some sort of repair which would be covered by the
factory warranty. Except that the car was now branded and therefore no 
warranty.

Factory rep said no way.

RLE