[MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16

2006-06-10 Thread Ralph W
Hello All,
I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I run snow tires in the 
winter on the standard 15 pancakes that came with the car. In the summer I am 
using later model 16 E-class wheels. They really give the car a more modern 
look. Based on some list recommendations I had been using Kuhmo Ectsa 711 tires 
which are now wore out. I must say that they were the worst tires I've ever 
owned. I only got around 15k out of them and they really made the car feel 
squirrelly and tracked the road terribly. The car is awesome with my Michelin 
Arctic Alpines. Can anyone (Dave M. perhaps?) recommend a good summer tire for 
this car. I'd rather not break the bank but I guess I better spend a bit more 
than I did on the Kuhmo's.


Ralph W.
'90 300D'83  300CD
'01 E320 '82  300TD
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sat Jun 10 00:50:29 2006
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Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 17:50:13 -0700
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16
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Well I have  Michelin Arctic Alpines on the 90's 300TDt but in my
opinion they tend to hydroplane or behave oddly when encountering
puddles at highway speeds, comparing that to the set of Michelin
hydro-edge ones on the 83 300TDt, or even the MXV4+ on the 500SEL.
I'll note the Arctic Alpine tire has been replaced with X-Ice and our
conditions don't include winter driving anyway, rain yes, snow no.

Because of deal I got at the local dealer last fall I'm about to put
a set of Michelin MXV4+   V rated ones on the 90's wagon. Hopefully
they will work as expected.

For the 500SEL I've been collecting notes about tires and would like
to try a set of Continental ContiPremiumContact 2 235/60R16W but I
don't think they offer them in North America.
Since it sits idle quite a bit now it's prone to flat spotting the
Michelins.

Summer tires? Michelin Pilot, or something from Continental come to mind

On 9-Jun-06, at 4:04 PM, Ralph W wrote:

 Hello All,
 I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I run snow tires
 in the winter on the standard 15 pancakes that came with the car.
 In the summer I am using later model 16 E-class wheels. They
 really give the car a more modern look. Based on some list
 recommendations I had been using Kuhmo Ectsa 711 tires which are
 now wore out. I must say that they were the worst tires I've ever
 owned. I only got around 15k out of them and they really made the
 car feel squirrelly and tracked the road terribly. The car is
 awesome with my Michelin Arctic Alpines. Can anyone (Dave M.
 perhaps?) recommend a good summer tire for this car. I'd rather not
 break the bank but I guess I better spend a bit more than I did on
 the Kuhmo's.


 Ralph W.
 '90 300D'83  300CD
 '01 E320 '82  300TD
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts 

Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16

2006-06-10 Thread Ralph W
I need to point out that I made an error on the Kuhmo's the model I have is 
the Ecsta HP4 which is no longer available on TIRERACK.com.


I agree with John on the behavior of the Arctic's on my car. I was merely 
trying to make the point that the car is worlds better with the Alpines than 
the Kuhmos. I'll take my 82' 300TD over the W124 in snow any day.


- Original Message - 
From: John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16



Well I have  Michelin Arctic Alpines on the 90's 300TDt but in my
opinion they tend to hydroplane or behave oddly when encountering
puddles at highway speeds, comparing that to the set of Michelin
hydro-edge ones on the 83 300TDt, or even the MXV4+ on the 500SEL.
I'll note the Arctic Alpine tire has been replaced with X-Ice and our
conditions don't include winter driving anyway, rain yes, snow no.

Because of deal I got at the local dealer last fall I'm about to put
a set of Michelin MXV4+   V rated ones on the 90's wagon. Hopefully
they will work as expected.

For the 500SEL I've been collecting notes about tires and would like
to try a set of Continental ContiPremiumContact 2 235/60R16W but I
don't think they offer them in North America.
Since it sits idle quite a bit now it's prone to flat spotting the
Michelins.

Summer tires? Michelin Pilot, or something from Continental come to mind






Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread George Larribeau

 Both pressures are low.  Compressor _could_ cause this, but it sounds
 undercharged.


I am going to put the gauges on it tomorrow. Is there a max pressure at
Idle? I thought that the low side pressure was important at idle like not to
exceed 28 psi or something?

Am I misinformed? At what RPM should it start to work?  Also I was told in
an older system if you replace the compressor you should replace the
expansion valve? The tale I was told on this is that here in Texas 1t 110 F
with a new compressor,  they will  usually blow when they are old. Did I
bite on some bate and swallow it hook line and sinker?

What should I look for with the gauges on it tomorrow? The systems I worked
on 20 years ago were 220V AC operated. Compressor output was constant. I am
trying to understand when it should be working? (in terms of RPM)


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


1985 300SD 170K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  110K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket)




[MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 
rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well the stock size on 126 cars that use those wheels is 205/65-15  so 
thats what I would use.


Steve MacSween wrote:


Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd like
to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which is
what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.

TKS



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] test

2006-06-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you failed

Roger Conlon wrote:


This is just a test.

_
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] times running out OK Don

2006-06-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I dont have time to go get it, and am running out of room.

OK Don wrote:


It's yours -- I don't have a place to put it.

On 6/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4646349169rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITrd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com







--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16

2006-06-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well the 795's are the ones you would want.  Dont know anything about 
the 711's


Ralph W wrote:


Hello All,
I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I run snow tires in the winter on the 
standard 15 pancakes that came with the car. In the summer I am using later model 
16 E-class wheels. They really give the car a more modern look. Based on some list 
recommendations I had been using Kuhmo Ectsa 711 tires which are now wore out. I must say 
that they were the worst tires I've ever owned. I only got around 15k out of them and 
they really made the car feel squirrelly and tracked the road terribly. The car is 
awesome with my Michelin Arctic Alpines. Can anyone (Dave M. perhaps?) recommend a good 
summer tire for this car. I'd rather not break the bank but I guess I better spend a bit 
more than I did on the Kuhmo's.


Ralph W.
'90 300D'83  300CD
'01 E320 '82  300TD
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.

2006-06-10 Thread Bob Rentfro

Gerry typed:

What is the humidity level in the building when they (evap coolers) are 
working well?  Do

people who use them have any problems with mold growth?


I'm not sure...it's totally comfortable, though.
Mold is never a problem...at least not in my experience since I quit using 
it when the dew point temp gets near 50 degrees. Their efficiency plummets 
when the dew point rises.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 154 K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 66K
waiting for '72 350SL 78K




Re: [MBZ] unobtanium, but on crack

2006-06-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 21:55:23 -0600 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 10:26:43 -0400 John Berryman
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  High? If it really has 127,000, $3500 is real fair. Although, as  
  usual the auction is not near over. Why do salvage titles scare  
  people so much? What if it was a recovered stolen or something that  
  didn't involve chassis damage? What if it was totaled and repaired  
  properly?The seller might be truthful if asked about it.
 
 I asked. I'll let you know what he says.


My email to seller:

==
You say,

Body is straight like an arrow, no any dents or scratches. Pain shines.
All interior looks great. The autotransmission shifts great. No any leaks
underneath. The tires have 80% of life tread.

But then at the top it says: Title: 
Salvage 

So why does it have a salvage title?

Thanks,

Craig
=

His reply:

=
Hi! Thanks for your interest! Great choice! Everything mentioned in the
listing is true. The car has been involved in an accident. After that I
have replaced the driver's door. The car has been  refinished after that.
So it's fine right now. Bid with confidence. Hope we will seal the deal.
Thank you. 




[MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Zeitgeist

Well, either the stars must have aligned or I shuffled across some random
pixie dust, but a W124 finally showed up at the local Pick-a-Part--this has
never ever ever happened around here before...ever.  It's a '92 300E, and I
nabbed the steering wheel (w/airbag), glovebox door, speakers, rear door
handles, and AC compressor.  Does anyone know whether this late-model
compressor is compatible with the AC system in my '87 300TD?

TIA

--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
R12 low side should be above 35 psi (which, so conveniently, is also 
35F) with expansion valve open (as it will be at idle).  The high side 
pressure should be around 250 psi, higher as the external temp goes up. 
 At 1500 rpm (the normal spec) low side pressure should be 35 and high 
side under 350 or so.  Aux fan should run above about 250 psi, I think, 
although I'm not exactly sure of that.  Certainly comes on as I charge 
my car(s).


When the expansion valve closes due to low evaporator temp, the low 
side can drop as low as -15 psi, as it should to prevent freezeup.  The 
compressor will also cycle on a Benz to prevent freezeup and to control 
cooling.


Low high side pressures and no liquid in the sight glass (it looks 
different that the liquid, notably it will have oil bubbles) indicate a 
low charge.


If you have intermittant very low (- 15 or lower) pressures while 
checking, the expansion valve is closing and the compressor is fine.


Cold pressure with the compressor disengaged should be 70 to 100 psi, I 
think, at least significantly higher than 50 psi.  I've not checked 
that in a long while, and you cannot charge by idle pressure (weigh the 
cans instead), but less than 50 psi cold with compressor disengaged 
would make me think low charge.


If you want to stick with R12, have what is in there recovered, replace 
ALL the o-rings, and charge with something else to check for leaks, 
then repair any.  You can then recharge with R12 with some assurance it 
will stay in.  If you want to stay with R12 for the long run, I would 
also suggest replacing all flexible hoses with new barrier type hoses 
as they leak less.




Peter




Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Zeitgeist wrote:

Well, either the stars must have aligned or I shuffled across some random
pixie dust, but a W124 finally showed up at the local Pick-a-Part--this has
never ever ever happened around here before...ever.  It's a '92 300E, and I
nabbed the steering wheel (w/airbag), glovebox door, speakers, rear door
handles, and AC compressor.  Does anyone know whether this late-model
compressor is compatible with the AC system in my '87 300TD?

TIA


Should be interchangeable. Is it a Nippondenso 10P15?

Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences

2006-06-10 Thread Luther Gulseth

Aight, with out the Finnish mods and just Dave M.'s mods.

On Fri, 09 Jun 2006 16:41:09 -0500, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



Luther Gulseth wrote:


And the ultimate would be a 124 coupe with OM603 w/Finnish mods..


Not if you wanted the engine to last for 250-300kmi!!

Marshall




--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Zeitgeist

Uh oh, it says it's a 10 PA 17C.  Is that bad?

MB part #  116 130 05 15

On 6/9/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Should be interchangeable. Is it a Nippondenso 10P15?

Marshall



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 9, 2006, at 9:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500
rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.



	 Whatever it was, it may be wise to change the fluid/filter. A valve  
could have gummed up or stuck with particles in the bore. Isn't there  
a temp switch that delays shifting when cold?
	I love it when cars fix themselves but hate not knowing the cause of  
the trouble



Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
Yup, it's different.  The 87 uses a 10P15.  The 10 PA 17C is shorter, 
and I don't know if the holes line up, and the speed sensor may be 
different.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Uh oh, it says it's a 10 PA 17C.  Is that bad?

Should be interchangeable. Is it a Nippondenso 10P15?


The 10 is the number of pistons (actually five double-ended ones),
the 15/17 is the capacity in some units.  There are smaller ones
too.  If it fits, and the speed sensor is compatible, it ought to
work.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

When the expansion valve closes due to low evaporator temp, the low
side can drop as low as -15 psi, as it should to prevent freezeup.  The
compressor will also cycle on a Benz to prevent freezeup and to control
cooling.


When charging on a hot day, as I like to do, the system ends up
running flat-out and you don't usually have too much trouble with
weird symptoms caused by feedback mechanisms kicking in.  A big
reason I like to do it then!  That, and using test refrigerant
instead of R12 means it's not cookbook time, you have to tinker
with the (under-)charge.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

I am going to put the gauges on it tomorrow. Is there a max pressure at
Idle? I thought that the low side pressure was important at idle like 
not to

exceed 28 psi or something?


At idle it's not running very effectively, and I've found the
pressures are _never_ as low as when running at speed.  28 is
way too low an expectation at idle in my (limited) experience.


I was told in an older system if you replace the compressor you
should replace the expansion valve?


Depends on why the replacement.  Because expansion valves are easy
to clog, if the compressor grenaded you may well have to.  But if
a reed valve broke and it just couldn't pump well then there would
be no need, nor if it was just a bearing that went out.


Did I bite on some bait and swallow it hook line and sinker?


Commercial mobile AC servicing is, these days, a government-sanctioned
racket IMHO.  I have _never_ heard of a repair estimate that did not
entail replacing at least half of the system, even if the real fault
was merely a leaky O-ring.  Thank you EPA.

I do my own these days, and I've spent less keeping my entire fleet
going, including the purchase of tools, than the _first_ estimate I
had done.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Is there a max pressure at Idle?


The modern AC system is deceptively simple.  It's rather elegant
engineering, which means that it's more complex than it appears.
It's all about fluid dynamics, with phase changes thrown in, and
a lot of weird plumbing.  Testing is done by pressure gauges,
thermometers, and inference, yet an important variable is the
amount of fluid flow, both gaseous and liquid, for which there
is no direct measurement.

In electrical terms, it's like trying to diagnose a battery/starter
problem using only a voltmeter and your brain.  That's what most of
us do and it certainly works, but it's _so_ much easier to _also_ use
an ammeter to measure the current draw rather than trying to infer it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 09 Jun 2006 20:48:17 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 
 rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.

So how's the tranny fluid? Is that the car that had PeptoBismol? I have
trouble following which car of yours has what.


Craig



[MBZ] Swamp coolers [was: Re: A possibly entertaining story, addition.]

2006-06-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 9 Jun 2006 11:58:31 -0400 archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What is the humidity level in the building when they are working well?

I've never measured it, but my guess is 50 - 70%.


 Do people who use them have any problems with mold growth?

I'm sure they do. I haven't used one in years, but my neighbor has one and
I didn't have problems with mold (I'm allergic to it) when I went in his
house.


Craig




Re: [MBZ] wheels for 126/ 8 hole wheels for sale

2006-06-10 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 6/7/2006 2:46:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

There  was some discussion about wheels for a 126 a few months back.  My
126  (1990 300SEL) has the standard 15 hole wheels and they are fine. No
marks  or scrapes and I sort of a fanatic about keeping my car clean, so
the  wheels are not stained.  However, I really like the looks of the  8
hole wheels on the later models.  I also like the look of the chrome  15
hole wheels.  Does anyone know of place to get either of these  wheels
for my 126 (besides Tire Rack).  I would like to find used  Mercedes
wheels for a reasonable price, rather than buying the  aftermarket
wheels.  



Donald,
 
Check out my wheels on EBAY.  They are in Phoenix  and I assume  you are in 
Oklahoma.
  

16 MERCEDES WHEELS, TIRES, AND LUG BOLTS.  
Item number: 8073272449
Probably not cost effective to ship as the set weighs over 200  pounds.
 
Regards,
 
 
Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles


[MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale.

2006-06-10 Thread JFreezn
Just got my Performance catalog yesterday and the electronic AC servo   is on 
sale for $499, marked down from $699.  This is the type two servo  that fits 
the 107, 116, and 123 chassis from the mid 70s to early 80s.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread mykd1
sounds like it was just a little cold 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 20:48:17 -0500
Subject: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came


Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 
rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16

2006-06-10 Thread mykd1
what was the original tire size? guessing maybe a 195 65 15? 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ralph W [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 19:04:47 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16


Hello All,
I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I run snow tires in the 
winter 
on the standard 15 pancakes that came with the car. In the summer I am using 
later model 16 E-class wheels. They really give the car a more modern look. 
Based on some list recommendations I had been using Kuhmo Ectsa 711 tires which 
are now wore out. I must say that they were the worst tires I've ever owned. I 
only got around 15k out of them and they really made the car feel squirrelly 
and 
tracked the road terribly. The car is awesome with my Michelin Arctic Alpines. 
Can anyone (Dave M. perhaps?) recommend a good summer tire for this car. I'd 
rather not break the bank but I guess I better spend a bit more than I did on 
the Kuhmo's.


Ralph W.
'90 300D'83  300CD
'01 E320 '82  300TD
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[MBZ] Need help with Power Steering Issues

2006-06-10 Thread Wakin's
My 1990 300TE's steering has not been right since we woke it up from it's
winter nap. It seems to fight you as you drive.

I had brought it to out local allignment shop here to see what they could
do, and they told me it needed an idler arm - so I took it back and replaced
the bushings (which looked fine) and brought it back with same condition of
steering fight.

Well, they did the allignment and it made zero difference, so I took some
time last night to do a power steering flush. I think I may have found the
problem. When I removed the return line (soft rubber hose, clamped on,
right?) and ran the car, turning the wheel, I was unable to get any fluid to
come out of the hose. It feels like power steering is assisting me in
turning the wheel, but I don't understand why there isn't any fluid coming
out the hose.

Do I have the right hose, and should fluid be coming out? If fluid is
supposed to come out, anyone have any ideas why mine doesn't?

Thanks in advance,

Dave Wakin

1990 300TE
1982 300SD
1997 e320




Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread Mitch Haley
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
 Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500
 rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.

If I were you, I'd drain and fill with Walmart Dexron III, drive it at least
1000 miles and then change fluid and filter, with M1 if I were going to keep
it or give it to Regina.



Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came

2006-06-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 
rpm?  Well all the sudden today its back to normal.  Wierd.


A stuck kickdown switch could do that (stuck then, not now).

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Zeitgeist wrote:

Uh oh, it says it's a 10 PA 17C.  Is that bad?

MB part #  116 130 05 15



That's a larger capacity (173 cc) compressor that was installed in late 
'80s 107s and larger 126s. The 10P15 has 153 cc capacity. If it fits, I 
think it should work.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread archer
What does the speed sensor do?  Do '83 300D Turbos have them?  Are they part 
of the compressor?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?



Uh oh, it says it's a 10 PA 17C.  Is that bad?

Should be interchangeable. Is it a Nippondenso 10P15?


The 10 is the number of pistons (actually five double-ended ones),
the 15/17 is the capacity in some units.  There are smaller ones
too.  If it fits, and the speed sensor is compatible, it ought to
work.

-- Jim





Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

What does the speed sensor do?


Tells the system the RPM of the compressor.
Used by the serpentine belt protection system
to detect a locked-up compressor, which disengages
the clutch to protect the (single) belt, in theory
keeping the water pump going thus protecting the
engine from destruction.


Do '83 300D Turbos have them?


No; no serpentine belt: no speed sensor.  (Though it wouldn't
hurt to have one on the compressor, it just wouldn't be used.)


Are they part of the compressor?


Yes.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

That's a larger capacity (173 cc) compressor that was installed in late
'80s 107s and larger 126s. The 10P15 has 153 cc capacity. If it fits, I
think it should work.


It should be noted that certain 80's Camry's use a 10P15 (I think), with
speed sensor, so they can be a source of used replacements if you're
into cheap repairs (as I am).

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Need help with Power Steering Issues

2006-06-10 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 10, 2006, at 6:52 AM, Wakin's wrote:


Do I have the right hose, and should fluid be coming out? If fluid is
supposed to come out, anyone have any ideas why mine doesn't?

Thanks in advance,

Dave Wakin


	From your description, it seems you have the correct hose. It does  
come directly from steering gear-box doesn't it?  It's odd that no  
fluid finds its way to the return. If little or no fluid gets pumped,  
little or nothing can come out. perhaps the filter is plugged and  
fluid thick. I've come across several MBs with stiff steering where  
the cure was a fluid and filter change.
	I generally opt for the dilution method of change ie; draw fluid  
out, remove filter and leave it out, add fluid, run/drive for a  
little while, draw fluid out etc until your satisfied that it has all  
clean fluid then install filter, top-off and go. I repeat the process  
4-5 times using Amsoil synthetic trans fluid (can't find M-1 ATF  
around here).
	Another thought is that the return line is swollen internally due to  
improper fluid or additives, causing a restriction. I use a large  
hypodermic syringe and found the rubber on the plunger swollen weeks  
after I used it to change my friends PS fluid (which was acting up)  
in a 1986 420SEL .


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?

2006-06-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:

That's a larger capacity (173 cc) compressor that was installed in late
'80s 107s and larger 126s. The 10P15 has 153 cc capacity. If it fits, I
think it should work.


It should be noted that certain 80's Camry's use a 10P15 (I think), with
speed sensor, so they can be a source of used replacements if you're
into cheap repairs (as I am).


The Nippondensu compressors on Toyotas that I've seen DIDN'T have speed 
sensors (although perhaps some do).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




[MBZ] More thoughts on driving.

2006-06-10 Thread Curt Raymond
The discussion of the faster Mercedes, including the Finnish mods reminds me of 
something I was thinking of last night. I'd taken a buddy out for a bachelor 
night since I'll miss his bachelor party and finally had a chance to really 
open up my 190D 2.2l 5spd. I was following a guy in an Audi A6 at 85-90mph (I 
still don't know what the top is on that car) and I was reminded of a time in 
my 240D I was following at guy in IIRC an old Carolla at about 80mph passing 
EVERYBODY, including, much to my surprise, a Ferrari of some sort. I'm sure 
that guy was worried about driving a cop magnet while I didn't particularly 
care...
  Most every day on my way home from work now I pass a (I think) 500SE. Its 
driven by an asian family of slow drivers. I usually pass them where RT2 and 
495 meet, its a long hill and I'm in the passing lane in 4th with the pedal to 
the floor for a good italian tuneup. The speed limit is 55mph, traffic is going 
70mph and heres this w126 over in the right lane chugging along. One time I was 
curious and I got in behind them, 50mph...
  I know that car could SMOKE mine any day of the week but I suspect they are 
trying to maximize gas mileage and decrease wear. I'm maximizing getting home 
and cleaning out the engine!
  
Anyway its not always the car as much as the driver...
   
  -Curt

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] '92 300E AC compressor in '87 300TD?
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 The Nippondensu compressors on Toyotas that I've seen DIDN'T have speed
 sensors (although perhaps some do).

It's the Camry's that have the speed sensor.  (Or some of them.)  I've
never seen a regular Toy that had it.

-- Jim




[MBZ] 190D update

2006-06-10 Thread Curt Raymond
While I feel like typing I thought I'd give an update on my 190D.
  When I first got it on cold startup it acted sort of odd, it'd start but idle 
really low for maybe 1/2 second and then come up to normal idle speed. Warm 
starts were fine.
  Now after around 7,000 miles 6,000 of that with Mobil 1 and most of it at 
full throttle that problem is pretty much gone, hit the key and its idling. 
Power has increased noticably and I ran a plot yesterday that shows a nice fuel 
mileage increase from around 34 average to 37+.
  We're going from MA to PA for a wedding next weekend and I plan to change the 
oil right after we get back, my theory being that the long highway run will 
help burn off more carbon to clean out. In the 6,000 miles I've added about 1/2 
quart of oil wost of which I expect is because of pulling a sample for analysis.
  I still need to replace the passenger seat bottom with one Fred Moir gave me 
and figure out how to put in the antenna seal I bought from Rusty but overall 
I'm quite happy.
   
  Oh my wife had new tires put on it and had them nitrogen inflated, I can tell 
you I definately notice absolutely no difference. Of course the new tires are 
nice as they don't hydroplane so bad and don't squirm all over the road like 
the bad old ones do
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D Dory 240kmi

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16
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The tire size for the 16 wheels are 215/55R16

Ralph

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:18 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16


 what was the original tire size? guessing maybe a 195 65 15? 
 
 Harry
 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata   





Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
The most common failures are leaks, which are fairly easy to fix, if 
not cheap, but a compressor failure these days almost always means 
changing the condenser to get rid of all the crap sitting in it -- 
which stuff will promptly wreck a new compressor.


My friend Hans always installs a filter if he has to put a new 
compressor on, and they still sometimes croak from dirt.  It's nearly 
impossible to flush the evaporators since they are multi-coil units, 
and the partially clogged coils won't flush.



On Jun 10, 2006, at 12:07 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Is there a max pressure at Idle?


The modern AC system is deceptively simple.  It's rather elegant
engineering, which means that it's more complex than it appears.
It's all about fluid dynamics, with phase changes thrown in, and
a lot of weird plumbing.  Testing is done by pressure gauges,
thermometers, and inference, yet an important variable is the
amount of fluid flow, both gaseous and liquid, for which there
is no direct measurement.

In electrical terms, it's like trying to diagnose a battery/starter
problem using only a voltmeter and your brain.  That's what most of
us do and it certainly works, but it's _so_ much easier to _also_ use
an ammeter to measure the current draw rather than trying to infer it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 190D update

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
Ah, the good ol Itialian Tunueup: -- drive the stuffings out of it, 
and it runs better.  The worst possible thing to do with a Benz diesel 
is putt around town in it -- carbons up the prechambers something 
terrible.


I change Mobil 1 oil on 6000 mile intervals..

Peter




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread George Larribeau
 reason I like to do it then!  That, and using test refrigerant
 instead of R12 means it's not cookbook time, you have to tinker
 with the (under-)charge.

 -- Jim


Jim, what is test refrigerant is there a FAQ ? if you have been over and
over this is it in the archives ?



George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


1985 300SD 170K
1987 HD FLHTC 86K
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  110K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket)




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread George Larribeau
 In electrical terms, it's like trying to diagnose a battery/starter
 problem using only a voltmeter and your brain.  That's what most of
 us do and it certainly works, but it's _so_ much easier to _also_ use
 an ammeter to measure the current draw rather than trying to infer it.


Thank you
I am an electronics type ...


GL







Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale

2006-06-10 Thread Joe Knight

As noted earlier the Unwired Tools servo replacement that Performance
currently has on sale is a closeout of an earlier than current
version.  Should work well enough but installation is a bit more
involved and iirc it lacks some of the programability of the current
version.  If anyone's feeling tempted by this deal it might be wise to
go to the Unwired website and download the manuals for the current
(I4)   immediately previous (Hx) versions.  There may be some
documentation there that details the differences as well. I just don't
remember.  Also, expect the installation to take considerably more
than 2 hrs the first time around, especially if you suspect the
existence of vacuum leaks.

joe



Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Jim, what is test refrigerant


It is what I use to test a system before committing scarce
and expensive R12 to it.  (None of my cars has sufficiently
'passed' the test to earn my only three cans of R12.)
It's a mix of isobutane and propane, and there are commercial
formulations of this.  Costs about $7 per full* charge DIY.

* full as in fully functional, but hydrocarbon blends are
  usually quite undercharged when compared to an R12
  installation.  This is to control the pressures, since
  propane (R290) has an R22-like pressure curve.  This
  makes them very sensitive to minor leakage, with the
  usual result being a need for an annual charge.  Big
  deal, so I have to spend $7/year to keep AC working
  in each car!

According to the EPA (and just how does this policy result
in a protected environment?) it is not legal to use this
refrigerant or anything like it in the US.  The political
machinations behind this policy are both frightening and
disgusting, I'll leave it to you to surf for it on the web.


is there a FAQ ? if you have been over and
over this is it in the archives ?


Only the two links I gave before:

http://cathey.dogear.com/efair.html
http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-10 Thread Gary Hurst

why would i be running 205/65 on my 15 bundts if it weren't what to do?

swine




On 6/9/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


on 6/9/06 3:21 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Steve MacSween wrote:
 Just curious... plan to put some 15 rims I have, onto my w126, and I'd
like
 to try some 205/65-15 tires I have lying around here.

 IIRC, conventional wisdom has it that you should use 70-series, which
is
 what I had with the 15 Mille Miglia rims on my w116 SD.

 The proper tire size IS 205/65x15.

 Marshall

Thanks Marshall, I agree completely but for some reason the local MBz
braintrust thinks they are too low-section.

205/65 it shall be.

Mac


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Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
Isobutane/propane refrigerant will work very nicely.  However, if you 
have a leak, air leaks in while the hydrocarbons leak out, and you can 
get an explosive mixture fairly easily.  The result can be a detonating 
compressor (don't laugh, I've seen it).  You also risk a large 
explosion if you have an accident that punctures the condenser.


You must indeed charge by pressure, adding 2.2 lbs of propane will 
definitely burst something.  When whatever it is ruptures, you can get 
a propane/air explosion.


R134a isn't much more expensive, is inert, and conversion isn't that 
hard.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
Diameter is probably too small, speedo and odo are off.  Won't 
actuallyt hurt anything, but the may be the wrong size.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread archer
If you convert to 134-A can you then go back to R-12 using your 134-A set of 
gauges?  R-134-A doesn't do a very good job of cooling my MBs.
I'm currently trying to find a second leak in an '83 300D.  The first one 
was the pressure switch on top of the dryer which is now fixed.   I'm using 
UV dye to look for the leaks, and I've wasted four cans of Freon trying to 
find it under the hood.


Can someone tell me the best way to find it under the dash since that must 
be where it is?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times



Isobutane/propane refrigerant will work very nicely.  However, if you
have a leak, air leaks in while the hydrocarbons leak out, and you can
get an explosive mixture fairly easily.  The result can be a detonating
compressor (don't laugh, I've seen it).  You also risk a large
explosion if you have an accident that punctures the condenser.

You must indeed charge by pressure, adding 2.2 lbs of propane will
definitely burst something.  When whatever it is ruptures, you can get
a propane/air explosion.

R134a isn't much more expensive, is inert, and conversion isn't that
hard.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Salvage titles

2006-06-10 Thread David Brodbeck

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Why do salvage titles scare people so much?

How do insurance companies feel about insuring salvage vehicles?


Liability insurance is usually no problem.  If you want collision or 
comprehensive, you may have to shop around.  Some companies will 
outright refuse to put that kind of insurance on a salvage vehicle; 
others will want it inspected first, and may want photographs to put on 
file.




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey
If you convert to 134-A can you then go back to R-12 using your 134-A 
set of

gauges?


Not easily, and not legally.  The fittings are all wrong for filling.
The oils are mutually incompatible.  I back-converted one of our 560 
SL's,

the fitting adapters just unscrewed.  Getting that evil POS oil out
of the compressor was difficult.  I didn't do the complete flush
before putting in mineral oil.  Should have, but was getting
tired, and you can't flush the drier, nor can you flush the
evaporator without removing the expansion valve.


R-134-A doesn't do a very good job of cooling my MBs.


No, it doesn't.  For a variety of reasons.  (It perhaps could
be made to work better, but longevity is also an issue.)

I'm currently trying to find a second leak in an '83 300D.  The 
first one
was the pressure switch on top of the dryer which is now fixed.   I'm 
using
UV dye to look for the leaks, and I've wasted four cans of Freon 
trying to

find it under the hood.


This is a perfect example of where/why I use a test refrigerant.
As a bonus, if you smell gas in the passenger compartment you
know you have an underdash leak.

Can someone tell me the best way to find it under the dash since that 
must

be where it is?


UV dye?  Soapy water?  Smell?  Process of elimination?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Peter Frederick
All the connections are sealed with o-rings, and there are four on the 
expansion valve.  I would guess that is where your leak is, and it may 
be slow enough that not much oil will blow out with the freon.  I 
replace all the 0-rings with new green ones when changing a system 
over.


Don't forget to check the compressor, too -- the hose junction on the 
later models tends to leak, as does the ffront seal and the piping 
manifold to compressor body on the Nippondenso conpressors.  On my TE, 
the leak at the manifold to body was the high side o-rings, and the oil 
was on the block side, invisible until I removed the compressor.\


You can go back, but you really need to flush the oil out properly.

Most undercooling problems are a result of overcharging -- R134a is 
lighter than R12, only put in 80 to 85% of the weight -- otherwise you 
get high suction side pressures and low cooling.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Isobutane/propane refrigerant will work very nicely.  However, if you
have a leak, air leaks in while the hydrocarbons leak out, and you can
get an explosive mixture fairly easily.


I do not see how a charged system can get _any_ air in it.  I have
never observed low-side pressure that dropped below atmospheric
pressure if it was at all working correctly.  If you let it get
extremely low on charge, perhaps.  But it would have stopped
cooling long before this point, and should have tripped the
safety switch anyway.  It's not like you wouldn't have had
your warning.  Water doesn't flow uphill, after all.


You also risk a large
explosion if you have an accident that punctures the condenser.


A rapid decomp of an R134A-filled condensor is also quite flammable.
The oil spray is the big component, but you add the extremely
toxic combustion products of the somewhat-combustible (!) refrigerant
to the party.


R134a isn't much more expensive, is inert, and conversion isn't that
hard.


All somewhat true.  It's the nasty side-effects that are the problem.
(It doesn't work well, it doesn't last long, the required oils are
_not_ inert, and correcting it afterwards is made considerably more
difficult.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

2006-06-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Don't forget to check the compressor, too -- the hose junction on the
later models tends to leak, as does the ffront seal and the piping
manifold to compressor body on the Nippondenso conpressors.


The ND compressor has 6 O-rings, four at the manifold/body interface
and two more where the hoses attach.  There was a tremendous leak
at the manifold on our latest 560 SL, where the _black_ O-rings
of the 'converted' system were chewed.  (It looked like mechanical
rather than chemical degradation, but I've no experience with
that to compare to.)  It is an extremely obvious bit of crappy
conversion, no doubt done at full price.


Most undercooling problems are a result of overcharging -- R134a is
lighter than R12, only put in 80 to 85% of the weight -- otherwise you
get high suction side pressures and low cooling.


Also, unless you've removed all the mineral oil (extremely difficult
to do) you've left a large indigestible lump of oil in the system,
where it can puddle and coat things to prevent heat transfer.  It's
immiscible in R134A, which is why you have to replace the oil when
you convert.  Most conversions, of course, don't replace the oil ---
they just _add_ more new oil.

-- Jim